That era of Marantz receivers were made after the company was acquired by Philips,...they had little interest in further developing the Marantz brand,which is why cost cutting measures such as the STK chips and the plastic square function buttons replaced the discrete output transistors and chrome metal function buttons of the previous generations...Eventually,they would even drop the flywheel tuning,which as you pointed out,was a Marantz trademark,in favor of a traditional tuning knob...After that,Marantz receivers were truly just another face in the crowd....Though they performed well,the SR and MR series of Marantz receivers do not garner the appreciation or price in today`s collector market that earlier models do,especially the 22 series of the 1970`s.
Ahhh, the STK modules were not a bad idea at the time. I get the tech need for discrete components, but it wasn’t a bad idea. I’ve seen and heard from many on CZcams they weren’t reliable. I’d challenge that on high end equipment where on a certain rail an output transistor is out and took a lot of other people resistors and capacitors out, as well....much like a TV, caused a lot more work. And then to re- bias new stuff? Ugh. Many claim that manufacturers did this for cost savings. I don’t believe that. I’ve had engineer friends claim it was because automated manufacturing processes were coming soon....late 70’s, early 80’s. Many questions, on sound, quality, etc. Actually it was an ingenious idea by Sanyo at the time. Because if correct, I’d challenge your ear to know the difference. In fact, their is no difference, outside you go tube based. That’s another story. Fast forward to 2021, it seems to be a cheap business proposition. That’s false. I appreciate like many the old style products, the process had to change for retail to be somewhat the same.But STK’s provided a solve at the time for the most critical components that failed at the time on a normal output board at a high rate, as well. Summation....it doesn’t matter if you have a discreet board or an STK module....if you drive a receiver hard, you’ll have failure. The problem, is now you can’t get original rebuilds and how do you discern real quality vs the cheap re-engineered stuff will last to save our precious 70/80’s equipment? I get that. Products produced today under brand names we know let us down....well, let’s face it....with all the micro ic’s, it’s SH#%. You can’t buy anything today that produces the sound quality us boomers or maybe a little younger know. It’s sad. But I challenge STK’s are “dreaded”. I’ve replaced them with much success. Even with cheap knockoffs. But I do get your frustration.
I just got this exact model for $20 this past weekend. Its not dead, but it is a project, power meters dead, tuning meter dead, scratchy controls and some distortion. All of the above I can tinker with, but the big thing is the function selector, the sliding part at the PC board someone tried to fix at some point, and its pretty messed up. I am supposing that switch is harder to come by than any other component in this thing, right now, she's stuck on FM setting. Good video, saving it for future reference when I get involved into mine. Thanks.
@05:00 That dark cream/brownish silicon stuff that keeps components glued to the circuit board should be removed - as it ages and becomes that color it can become conductive and cause shorts. Normally it's white/gray, when it gets to that color it's not looking good.
I just bought one of these on e-bay hope it works ok. Used to own a model 125 turner with a lot of other high priced equipment was taken out of a storage locker when i built a new house. Could never afford to replace it.
Hi and congrats for your channel. Well I’m a bit like you, use to clean all I can, polish here and there, and that is good for the business, happy customers recommend others just for that tiny little detail, and a pro repair of course! Keep the good healthy work up!
LED upgrade to replace ordinary filament lamps in any vintage unit is the best and cheapest option - the end result is virtually the same - but with longer-lasting reliability. You did a great job (I hope the customer appreciates it). I didn't see any fuses on the main board (I presume that receiver is equipped with multiple protection circuits). Either way it all works sweetly now. Early '80s technology at its best. Very classy.
I agree, the old incandescent lamps cooked things around them as well as burning out themselves. But I would have used Warm White LEDs to keep the original character. I also prefer to use a AC to DC rectifier with voltage regulator between the old incandescent lamp power to the LEDs. They may not flicker looking straight at them, but if you move your head, you can see the flicker.
You were made the vintage amplifier new look and charm. Definitely a good idea for replacing Neon or incandescent bulb with LEDs. Congratulations for you new Blue ESR tester. This tester I'm using since 9 years and it's superb and accurate also reliable for ESR values. I was directly soldering sharp probes and not leave any banana plugs because they always show up intermittent loose connection and difficulty to zero out meter. I also using Blue Ring tester for the same time and it is great tester for many coils and smps transformer testing.
Careful.... The old STK has a strong following. No doubt you have already encountered comments below LoL.. I like the STK, they produce an amazing sound, their reliability can only be measured by the components surrounding it... If all you have is an ESR meter, your not getting all the information regarding the capacitor that you are trying to measure... I know, I have mentioned this before in previous video comments but I can't pass up on the importance of an LCR Bridge, without it you are literally in the dark, the ESR isn't really helping you... It's PCB could have used a wash, possibly with isopropyl alcohol or something. It looks like something has been spilt over it... I really hope that you don't take any criticism to harsh, on an open platform like CZcams, we all contribute and grow together! It was a nice touch giving the faceplate a clean, doing the right thing gets you new customers without asking!
I don't know what to say old friend, first time actually seeing you clean something up! ;) BUT what's these dirt markings on the face above just below the amp labeling all along the top? I suggested before you should add or at least offer a minimal vacuum out & cleanup charge ($10-$15) option to every repair. It's sad to see all these filthy components you work on and sent back in the same condition. I don't understand how folks can let their stuff go like that. It can't help. Good troubleshooting eye. Those new LEDs look great and are kicking out some illumination now! lol
No need to charge for taking a few minutes to clean the equipment. I clean everything I repair before I return it to the customer, no charge. Takes a few minutes, uses no supplies, it's a nice touch and most customers appreciate the extra effort.
@@inothome There you go. That's called super service, something that sellers and service folks would do well to remember and practice. I know it know it's just psychological, but it really does leave a great impression on customers and everything sounds and works better when it clean. :) Thanks for sharing that positive thinking. And yes they do appreciate the effort. Everyone should do it.
I have a Quadradial 4 amp/ preamp. Probably should be gone through. Worked when I put it in the attic 12 years ago. I guess I should contact you someday I also have a Adcom GFA-555 Designed by Nelson Pass that probably should be re-capped and tuned up. I use it today, but I'm sure it needs to be tuned up.
When I fitted LEDs as you did they flickered at high music levels (poor regulation). I had to tap off a sub PSU (BUCK type) that I powered for an internal Bluetooth module.
Wow that is awesome and you are good. I am new to Marantz. I have a SR-1000 being shipped. I should have it this weekend. I guess the needles stopped working. So I have to figure that out. I also have a Dual Cassette SD-162 on its way.One side works I guess. Basically, with kids in college it is all I can afford right now. I would love to throw some blue LED into this after I get the needles working. Any ideas here? I live in Michigan. I would probably take this into a technician. Above my skill set.
I’m new to audio repair/restoration…. So, when you switch from incandescent bulbs to LED, you need to but a 1K resistor in series….. why is that? I imagine LEDs use less power?! Sorry if this is a silly question, but wanna do it correctly…. Thanks!
I think you're a bit hard on those STK modules. They brought down the price of amplifiers massively and, considering the sheer numbers of the things sold down the years, were very reliable during their designed life-span. Yes they're unobtanium now but that's hardly Sanyo's fault. Please don't go down the same road 12voltvids has, in unnecessarily slagging off equipment just because he thinks it'll get more views 👍
STK’s are still available. I ordered the same one this unit has off of ebay last month for $11 shipped and repaired an old Soundesign unit from 1979. It sounds really good.
Yeah it gets hard to watch 12Voltvids sometimes... He will get something working fast by replacing the broken components but never really looks for the actual component that caused the failure to begin with! Sure it's working now but give it a few months and it's going to die again...
@@PeterMilanovski I can't stand 12voltvids when he opens something and finds a dodgy repair and then lectures us for a whole hour about it. Were all here to learn and some of us are newbies.
@@cat-lw6kq the problem with him is that he only replaces the components that are actually broken but he never goes looking for what caused it to break in the first place! Sure, he gets it working fast, but how long is it going to be working for? So you get your device back from him and it works for a week or a month and it dies again! Then you tell yourself that it's old and maybe it's time to throw it out and get a new one! This is what I think happened to a lot of people! If a device is repaired properly, it should function for many years without a problem... If you want to know how to do it right, you need to watch "Mr Carlson's Lab and XRayTonyB" channels... Paul Carlson works on a lot of vacuum tube equipment and Tony works with solid state stuff, they both have worked with vacuum tube and solid state equipment and they both give a lot of valuable advice and information on how to make repairs and restorations... You really need to be subscribed to both if you haven't already... You will learn so much from these two amazing people! Vacuum tube equipment might look different to solid state but they are very similar and so much can be learnt about solid state from knowing vacuum tube... But 12V vids is just hard to watch, I would never take anything of mine to him for repair! Ever!
@@PeterMilanovski yes I recall him saying he worked in a very busy shop and I remember on teacher telling us he worked for Sears and you were expected to repair 5 items a day, its about profit.
The state of that AMP anyone heard of actually spending some time and give that poor AMP a real good clean up .the state of that PCB it's disgusting .spend some time give it a good cleanup use some Servisol IPA 170 give all the contacts a good clean up switches .any dry joins touch up .and the chassis a good polish that amp will look absolutely stunning. I hate seeing those Marantz amps in those state of repair yukky !!
I have a SR1000L. I had to order a replacement power cable and it doesn’t power on. The voltage selector is at 240V as in UK. The plug has a 3 amp fuse and rated at 250V. When I put my multimeter prongs into the 2 pin connector on the cable I read 236V (AC). Is the cable bad?
From Mouser Electronics Keysight technologies. U1169A model www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keysight/U1169A?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiaNqOJiLKKA%252BtR8SNdJ8jEqbK3JcGv7Xo%3D
Sound like the muting circuit is not recognizing the signal. When in mono the muting is disabled. It needs to lock onto a signal to un-mute, and if it can not then you wont get anything. Could be a signal processing issue.
Great video … any suggestions on where to find a schematic for the SR2000 receiver? Also, how does one go about fixing the A/B speaker engage buttons? The rectangle buttons … On mine, continually disengages (i.e. doesn’t stay inserted when pushed inwards)
I rarely comment on videos, but I really enjoyed watching this one. Thank you
That era of Marantz receivers were made after the company was acquired by Philips,...they had little interest in further developing the Marantz brand,which is why cost cutting measures such as the STK chips and the plastic square function buttons replaced the discrete output transistors and chrome metal function buttons of the previous generations...Eventually,they would even drop the flywheel tuning,which as you pointed out,was a Marantz trademark,in favor of a traditional tuning knob...After that,Marantz receivers were truly just another face in the crowd....Though they performed well,the SR and MR series of Marantz receivers do not garner the appreciation or price in today`s collector market that earlier models do,especially the 22 series of the 1970`s.
Ahhh, the STK modules were not a bad idea at the time. I get the tech need for discrete components, but it wasn’t a bad idea. I’ve seen and heard from many on CZcams they weren’t reliable. I’d challenge that on high end equipment where on a certain rail an output transistor is out and took a lot of other people resistors and capacitors out, as well....much like a TV, caused a lot more work. And then to re- bias new stuff? Ugh.
Many claim that manufacturers did this for cost savings. I don’t believe that. I’ve had engineer friends claim it was because automated manufacturing processes were coming soon....late 70’s, early 80’s. Many questions, on sound, quality, etc. Actually it was an ingenious idea by Sanyo at the time. Because if correct, I’d challenge your ear to know the difference. In fact, their is no difference, outside you go tube based. That’s another story.
Fast forward to 2021, it seems to be a cheap business proposition. That’s false.
I appreciate like many the old style products, the process had to change for retail to be somewhat the same.But STK’s provided a solve at the time for the most critical components that failed at the time on a normal output board at a high rate, as well.
Summation....it doesn’t matter if you have a discreet board or an STK module....if you drive a receiver hard, you’ll have failure.
The problem, is now you can’t get original rebuilds and how do you discern real quality vs the cheap re-engineered stuff will last to save our precious 70/80’s equipment? I get that.
Products produced today under brand names we know let us down....well, let’s face it....with all the micro ic’s, it’s SH#%.
You can’t buy anything today that produces the sound quality us boomers or maybe a little younger know. It’s sad.
But I challenge STK’s are “dreaded”. I’ve replaced them with much success. Even with cheap knockoffs.
But I do get your frustration.
The quality of components in the older units just amazes me... Keep on truckin!
Nice, although I think I would've preferred warm-white LEDs.
I just got this exact model for $20 this past weekend. Its not dead, but it is a project, power meters dead, tuning meter dead, scratchy controls and some distortion. All of the above I can tinker with, but the big thing is the function selector, the sliding part at the PC board someone tried to fix at some point, and its pretty messed up. I am supposing that switch is harder to come by than any other component in this thing, right now, she's stuck on FM setting. Good video, saving it for future reference when I get involved into mine. Thanks.
@05:00 That dark cream/brownish silicon stuff that keeps components glued to the circuit board should be removed - as it ages and becomes that color it can become conductive and cause shorts. Normally it's white/gray, when it gets to that color it's not looking good.
thanks uncle
I think this one was during the Phillips years. I actually like the sound of the STK modules but working on them... not so much.
I just bought one of these on e-bay hope it works ok. Used to own a model 125 turner with a lot of other high priced equipment was taken out of a storage locker when i built a new house. Could never afford to replace it.
Hi and congrats for your channel. Well I’m a bit like you, use to clean all I can, polish here and there, and that is good for the business, happy customers recommend others just for that tiny little detail, and a pro repair of course! Keep the good healthy work up!
I fix stuff all the time. You got a great channel. I like how you go the extra mile, like cleaning the outside. Wonderful job.
LED upgrade to replace ordinary filament lamps in any vintage unit is the best and cheapest option - the end result is virtually the same - but with longer-lasting reliability. You did a great job (I hope the customer appreciates it). I didn't see any fuses on the main board (I presume that receiver is equipped with multiple protection circuits). Either way it all works sweetly now. Early '80s technology at its best. Very classy.
I agree, the old incandescent lamps cooked things around them as well as burning out themselves. But I would have used Warm White LEDs to keep the original character. I also prefer to use a AC to DC rectifier with voltage regulator between the old incandescent lamp power to the LEDs. They may not flicker looking straight at them, but if you move your head, you can see the flicker.
Excellent repair and hints! Thank you.
You make it look easy
You were made the vintage amplifier new look and charm. Definitely a good idea for replacing Neon or incandescent bulb with LEDs. Congratulations for you new Blue ESR tester. This tester I'm using since 9 years and it's superb and accurate also reliable for ESR values. I was directly soldering sharp probes and not leave any banana plugs because they always show up intermittent loose connection and difficulty to zero out meter. I also using Blue Ring tester for the same time and it is great tester for many coils and smps transformer testing.
Thanks for a nice video
You added two probes to the Blue ESR meter, what is the total length of wires because it is mentioned in the manual it has to be 15 cm each.
How did you add the two meter leads?
Careful.... The old STK has a strong following. No doubt you have already encountered comments below LoL..
I like the STK, they produce an amazing sound, their reliability can only be measured by the components surrounding it... If all you have is an ESR meter, your not getting all the information regarding the capacitor that you are trying to measure...
I know, I have mentioned this before in previous video comments but I can't pass up on the importance of an LCR Bridge, without it you are literally in the dark, the ESR isn't really helping you...
It's PCB could have used a wash, possibly with isopropyl alcohol or something. It looks like something has been spilt over it...
I really hope that you don't take any criticism to harsh, on an open platform like CZcams, we all contribute and grow together! It was a nice touch giving the faceplate a clean, doing the right thing gets you new customers without asking!
Cool to see that diode up close - nice crooked molding there :)
I really liked. 👍👌
Can you do a video showing how to remove the dials and cleaning the outside panel (what products you use) and how to replace the lights? Many thanks!
I don't know what to say old friend, first time actually seeing you clean something up! ;) BUT what's these dirt markings on the face above just below the amp labeling all along the top? I suggested before you should add or at least offer a minimal vacuum out & cleanup charge ($10-$15) option to every repair. It's sad to see all these filthy components you work on and sent back in the same condition. I don't understand how folks can let their stuff go like that. It can't help. Good troubleshooting eye. Those new LEDs look great and are kicking out some illumination now! lol
No need to charge for taking a few minutes to clean the equipment. I clean everything I repair before I return it to the customer, no charge. Takes a few minutes, uses no supplies, it's a nice touch and most customers appreciate the extra effort.
@@inothome There you go. That's called super service, something that sellers and service folks would do well to remember and practice. I know it know it's just psychological, but it really does leave a great impression on customers and everything sounds and works better when it clean. :) Thanks for sharing that positive thinking. And yes they do appreciate the effort. Everyone should do it.
I have a Quadradial 4 amp/ preamp. Probably should be gone through. Worked when I put it in the attic 12 years ago. I guess I should contact you someday I also have a Adcom GFA-555 Designed by Nelson Pass that probably should be re-capped and tuned up. I use it today, but I'm sure it needs to be tuned up.
Get it serviced before it fries some speakers
When I fitted LEDs as you did they flickered at high music levels (poor regulation). I had to tap off a sub PSU (BUCK type) that I powered for an internal Bluetooth module.
I have a 2325 that isn't working .. I would like to see the old girl back up and running .
Looks like maybe you had a liquid spill on the board.
Wow that is awesome and you are good. I am new to Marantz. I have a SR-1000 being shipped. I should have it this weekend. I guess the needles stopped working. So I have to figure that out. I also have a Dual Cassette SD-162 on its way.One side works I guess. Basically, with kids in college it is all I can afford right now. I would love to throw some blue LED into this after I get the needles working. Any ideas here? I live in Michigan. I would probably take this into a technician. Above my skill set.
I’m new to audio repair/restoration…. So, when you switch from incandescent bulbs to LED, you need to but a 1K resistor in series….. why is that? I imagine LEDs use less power?! Sorry if this is a silly question, but wanna do it correctly…. Thanks!
wow good job, Thank you..
A person on ebay has designed a replacement circuit for the amp chip as the replacements are junk
excelent
I think you're a bit hard on those STK modules. They brought down the price of amplifiers massively and, considering the sheer numbers of the things sold down the years, were very reliable during their designed life-span. Yes they're unobtanium now but that's hardly Sanyo's fault.
Please don't go down the same road 12voltvids has, in unnecessarily slagging off equipment just because he thinks it'll get more views 👍
STK’s are still available. I ordered the same one this unit has off of ebay last month for $11 shipped and repaired an old Soundesign unit from 1979. It sounds really good.
Yeah it gets hard to watch 12Voltvids sometimes... He will get something working fast by replacing the broken components but never really looks for the actual component that caused the failure to begin with!
Sure it's working now but give it a few months and it's going to die again...
@@PeterMilanovski I can't stand 12voltvids when he opens something and finds a dodgy repair and then lectures us for a whole hour about it. Were all here to learn and some of us are newbies.
@@cat-lw6kq the problem with him is that he only replaces the components that are actually broken but he never goes looking for what caused it to break in the first place! Sure, he gets it working fast, but how long is it going to be working for? So you get your device back from him and it works for a week or a month and it dies again! Then you tell yourself that it's old and maybe it's time to throw it out and get a new one!
This is what I think happened to a lot of people! If a device is repaired properly, it should function for many years without a problem...
If you want to know how to do it right, you need to watch "Mr Carlson's Lab and XRayTonyB" channels...
Paul Carlson works on a lot of vacuum tube equipment and Tony works with solid state stuff, they both have worked with vacuum tube and solid state equipment and they both give a lot of valuable advice and information on how to make repairs and restorations... You really need to be subscribed to both if you haven't already... You will learn so much from these two amazing people!
Vacuum tube equipment might look different to solid state but they are very similar and so much can be learnt about solid state from knowing vacuum tube...
But 12V vids is just hard to watch, I would never take anything of mine to him for repair! Ever!
@@PeterMilanovski yes I recall him saying he worked in a very busy shop and I remember on teacher telling us he worked for Sears and you were expected to repair 5 items a day, its about profit.
Great video! Anyone have an opinion on what the the quality of the phono preamp is on this or the SR 2000 is? THANKS!
The state of that AMP anyone heard of actually spending some time and give that poor AMP a real good clean up .the state of that PCB it's disgusting .spend some time give it a good cleanup use some Servisol IPA 170 give all the contacts a good clean up switches .any dry joins touch up .and the chassis a good polish that amp will look absolutely stunning. I hate seeing those Marantz amps in those state of repair yukky !!
One of my output meter needles doesn't bounce, just stays wherever it's placed.
I have a SR1000L. I had to order a replacement power cable and it doesn’t power on. The voltage selector is at 240V as in UK. The plug has a 3 amp fuse and rated at 250V. When I put my multimeter prongs into the 2 pin connector on the cable I read 236V (AC). Is the cable bad?
I have the same ESR meter. I like those test probes. Searched your videos but you made no mention of them.
Where can I get those?
From Mouser Electronics Keysight technologies. U1169A model www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keysight/U1169A?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiaNqOJiLKKA%252BtR8SNdJ8jEqbK3JcGv7Xo%3D
That’s when Marantz went downhill , STKs , cardboard bottoms , bad quality capacitors
How can I ship my Marantz stereo to you for repair?
Hi , I have a marantz sr2000 the tuner have a problem if put fm stereo no signal,if turn a fm mono have a signal thanks
Sound like the muting circuit is not recognizing the signal. When in mono the muting is disabled. It needs to lock onto a signal to un-mute, and if it can not then you wont get anything. Could be a signal processing issue.
Great video … any suggestions on where to find a schematic for the SR2000 receiver? Also, how does one go about fixing the A/B speaker engage buttons? The rectangle buttons … On mine, continually disengages (i.e. doesn’t stay inserted when pushed inwards)
I just bought one. So they are ok to restore?
Certainly!
You missed a spot on the knob.
It was a gouge! I tried and tried to clean that.
@@norcal715 You can cover it with purpurin paint.
Great job man. Where are you located?
I am in Chico
@@norcal715 ok thanks I'm in NY area needed some work done. Great video though
Hello! Would anyone know where I can find a cover / cabinet for my SR-1000 receiver?
Hey Steve, if your still looking, I have one.
@@GMYT1952 Thanks. How can I see a photo or two?
@@GMYT1952 You just joined CZcams today?
hello
from where you get all the schematics sir
On stereo equipment usually hifiengine.com
@@norcal715 It doesn´t allow new members and it´s not possible to download any manual. It is a shame...
1st
nothing wrong with stk
The new STK copies aren’t reliable. See Chris Lewis for the mods.