It's super common in the Marine world and Just Roaming Design uses it as they base for their hydronic heated flooring - www.justroamingdesign.com/columbia-flooring-system I was actually originally looking for Space Age Thermolite - www.spaceagesynthetics.com/thermo-lite-board-product-line/ based on a recommendation from a boat builder, but when I called the local distributor RevChem - revchem.com/ they recommended Coosaboard which is basically the same thing but much easier to get a hold of in my state. I love it, it has all the properties you'd want in an RV flooring when compared to wood.
What a pleasure watching and learning from such a highly intelligent instructor. I have no intention of doing this but couldn't help but watch the entire video. Great attention to detail and such a renaissance man.
Wow Rich, super humbled by your continued support of the channel and the compliments. Thank you so much, it means a lot to me. I've had a lot of great mentors and opportunities to learn these things from throughout my life so it feels good to put this kind of content out for others to learn from. I realize that the way I'm going about my build is not for everyone, but hopefully it makes people thing a little different about the problems 🙂
100% nailed my ideal plan to not install a permanent floor. Love this and really appreciate all the effort you put into these. And I need a Ti gravel bike frame :)
Thanks so much I really appreciate it! It's definitely slowing things down so much, but it is fun to look back through the progress! I'm glad you enjoyed the floor construction and also the little bike detour. Nick has been a good friend for the past few years and it's awesome to see his business grow so much!
Wow, thanks so much I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment! Glad you are enjoying the content and thanks again for the encouragement, it really does help keep us going.
Hi Todd, I have been researching the sh*t out of many flooring systems for my 144 Sprinter Build and this is exactly the procedure and components I have been researching. Then, I came across your video that you guys just posted. Perfect timing and have been looking everywhere for a video like this, absolutely great video. I plan on using our CNC Router to machine it in sections along with all the L-Track cutouts. I also like the idea of using the PVC strips for your supporting structures and allowing for the extra Minicell foam with the 3M Thinsulate. Really do appreciate your videos and humor. Looking forward to next video for the L-Track Mounting and your finishing steps.
Having a CNC router would have been the dream, but honestly it's not too bad with a track saw. That's the tool I wish I had building skate ramps when I was a teenager lol! It's a lot of extra effort to put the PVC slats in and cutting out the minicell foam, but I think it really does make for a nice solid floor. It also went way faster once I figured out the indentation trick. I was measuring them all out and thinking "dang this is going to take FOREVER." I know DIY Van puts the full sheet underneath and that seems to work well too if you wanted to save some time. The minicell is pretty resilient stuff and compresses to a hard surface pretty much, I wanted to have it at full loft for the insulation properties for mine though.
Yes, I also saw that on DIY Van with the Minicell underneath and I am also looking into that as well, I just need to scan the floor to get an accurate CAD Design. Along with figuring out the proper mounting locations for the L-Track for two removable seats behind the driver's seat. 🙂 👍
@@rcrdesign6540 DIYVan has actual 3D CAD surfaces from Mercedes. That would be so nice. The scan data I have is not good enough to get that level of detail in the ribs, it's really only for nominal dimensions. I wish Mercedes would have a dumbed down CAD available for people that had floor, roof and interior walls. For my seat behind the drivers seat I'm going with this alpinevanworks.com/products/double-bench-to-bed-seat They were kind enough to send me a drawing of the seat and where to put the L-tracks.
Thanks Jay! Yeah turned out really nice, quieted down the steel box like crazy and been pretty (California) cold here (38ºF) in the mornings and pleasantly impressed with the thermal break on the feet for such a thin floor!
@@moonrakerdesign Wow that's great to hear about the thermal break performance. My 1/2 ply and 1/2 EPS is not much of a break. Going to add 1/2" Minicell I think. The Coosa is the way to go. Although I love my Marmoleum one piece floor.
@@omjaye Yeah the Marmoleum looks really awesome. I'm sad I didn't do more research before I bought my Lonseal way back when! Oh well on the "next" van lol 😂
Out of sheer curiosity, did you debate at all about the need for floor insulation? The open ribs do provide air flow. How does the floor compress with the insulation?
Hey there, the thought about not using insulation on the floor never crossed my mind actually. What would be your reason for not doing it? We had a simple bed rug before and the floor became really cold camping in moderate conditions ~50ºF. I'd recommend reading through this. sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/73667/post-743095
@@moonrakerdesign Firstly, thank you for replying. I came across your channel and your work is off the rails! Basically, the complexity and intended use. Our proposed van would be more of the RV casual use, warm and moderate weather. I am so glad to see that you used the thinsulate in specific, uncompressed areas, (using your plastic spacers). That made alot of sense. AVC rig I think, makes precut ZIpwall panels with insulation built in. Just curious if the labor, complexity, and materials provides the tradeoff for the mildly increased R value. But I think I am in the minute minority. I have not seen a build without an insulated floor. Keep up the amazing content! Your pop ups specifying your exact materials is perfect. Have you seen a hexagonal hole puller for the rivnuts? Prevents spin out. Thank you again for the replies.
@@moonrakerdesign You assembled the 3 floor panels with the biscuit joinery in your workshop, and I guess you moved it into the van all in one, how difficult was that to get the whole assembly in place without putting too much stress on the biscuits? I'm interested to know how you proceeded. Thanks.
@@robertludwig5308 Super simple. My wife and I did it. We lifted it up on so it was vertical along one of the side edges and carried it into the van lengthwise and then laid it down. If you lifted it flat you might want to have some extra people in the middle for support. The Sikflex and biscuits probably won't tear or break but it feels a bit too much flex for my comfort carrying it like this from the ends.
Thank you for the feedback and the kind words. We are trying a few different things here and there to see how people respond + also get pretty tired sometimes with everything else going on! I have a lot of respect for people who put videos like these together! It's a lot of work!
Hey Dude and Dudette ! Wi R U even considering rerouting your intros. You guys are so PUNY. But seriously, your intros are fun, unique and entertaining. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences on your build.
🤣🤣 Hey Brian! Thanks for the comment and the laugh! It’s been a lot of extra effort to film and add the intros and my dudette is 8 months pregnant now, but we are still trying! Glad the videos are entertaining and happy to share our journey and learnings!! Thanks again.
How do I get your custom lock box cover for a 170 WB? I love the clean look without the screws and the locking mechanism. Also, why didn’t you go with hydronic floor heating? Did you use any kilmat on the wheel welsl, walls, ceiling, undercarriage?
Unfortunately I would need a 170 to take measurements and everything on. Unfortunately that’s not on my priority list at the moment. For the floor heating both my wife and I are really tall and opted for saving standing height over the heated floors. I’m going to branch the hydronic lines for one more air handler in the back of the van though. You can check my sound deadening video. We put Kilmat in a select few places then hybrid under the front floors doors and behind the headliner. I also recently ordered TecVanLife Duck Liner for the ceiling. I’ll wait to put the kilmat on the wheel wells until the floor is completely done.
I did consider it, but because we both are tall and camp and live in a pretty mild climate being able to stand up straight and have a bit more head clearance won the battle. I am going to be putting an air handler in the back for more air heat off the hydronic system for the winter though.
I went and picked it up. I called Coosa and they gave me a distributor named RevChem Composites that had a location about an hour drive from my house. I’ve been working with other people to find it for them too though and this brand has been easier for some of them to get … it’s basically the same thing - www.spaceagesynthetics.com/thermo-lite-board-product-line/ Hope this helps.
Good to hear from you cousin Billy!! 😜 I didn’t. I’ve been trying to talk to @tecvanlife about making their duckliner in 0.25” without the foil backing for underfloor. I bought some of the 10mm stuff to test on the ceiling and it’s super nice. So far they’ve ghosted me though. I don’t have a big enough following I guess :(
@@moonrakerdesign outstanding! For someone who is 6-1, getting every inch out of the floor is great. Something I don't understand though.. why the PVC/FR-4 spacers? I guess I didn't understand why, and how you laid out that part???
@@Pro4Sound Sure thing! Technically you don't need to do this step, but it felt weird to put in another layer of minicell insulation between the floor ribs and the subfloor only to have it compressed down when I put my cabinets and weight on top of it. Insulation works best when it batted up for the fiber type or to its full height for the foam. So what the PVC/FR-4 does is serve as an additional structure under the floor where the cabinets in the van are and the L-track in the floor are being mounted. This gives me a hard stack in those places making sure the minicell in the other areas isn't compressed. I determined the location of these pieces based on my overall layout. I used the FR-4 ONLY under the L-track since it's super strong (and super expensive) and I wanted a really hard and stable stack up in those areas so the L-track is ultra-secure. The ones in the front will be holding the passengers seat. If you skipped this step your floor would probably have a little compliance to it, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but would have a little less insulate properties. I hope this helps.
Hey Todd, You don't indicate how you fastened the L-track into the van body. Did you rivnut into the floor or through bolt it? Great work by the way. Cheers, Al
First video I saw of a van made with Coosa board
It's super common in the Marine world and Just Roaming Design uses it as they base for their hydronic heated flooring - www.justroamingdesign.com/columbia-flooring-system
I was actually originally looking for Space Age Thermolite - www.spaceagesynthetics.com/thermo-lite-board-product-line/ based on a recommendation from a boat builder, but when I called the local distributor RevChem - revchem.com/ they recommended Coosaboard which is basically the same thing but much easier to get a hold of in my state.
I love it, it has all the properties you'd want in an RV flooring when compared to wood.
What a pleasure watching and learning from such a highly intelligent instructor. I have no intention of doing this but couldn't help but watch the entire video. Great attention to detail and such a renaissance man.
Wow Rich, super humbled by your continued support of the channel and the compliments. Thank you so much, it means a lot to me. I've had a lot of great mentors and opportunities to learn these things from throughout my life so it feels good to put this kind of content out for others to learn from. I realize that the way I'm going about my build is not for everyone, but hopefully it makes people thing a little different about the problems 🙂
100% nailed my ideal plan to not install a permanent floor. Love this and really appreciate all the effort you put into these. And I need a Ti gravel bike frame :)
Thanks so much I really appreciate it! It's definitely slowing things down so much, but it is fun to look back through the progress! I'm glad you enjoyed the floor construction and also the little bike detour. Nick has been a good friend for the past few years and it's awesome to see his business grow so much!
OUTSTANDING! Your production quality, and more importantly the content, is top notch and spot on!
Wow, thanks so much I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment! Glad you are enjoying the content and thanks again for the encouragement, it really does help keep us going.
Hi Todd, I have been researching the sh*t out of many flooring systems for my 144 Sprinter Build and this is exactly the procedure and components I have been researching. Then, I came across your video that you guys just posted. Perfect timing and have been looking everywhere for a video like this, absolutely great video. I plan on using our CNC Router to machine it in sections along with all the L-Track cutouts. I also like the idea of using the PVC strips for your supporting structures and allowing for the extra Minicell foam with the 3M Thinsulate. Really do appreciate your videos and humor. Looking forward to next video for the L-Track Mounting and your finishing steps.
Having a CNC router would have been the dream, but honestly it's not too bad with a track saw. That's the tool I wish I had building skate ramps when I was a teenager lol! It's a lot of extra effort to put the PVC slats in and cutting out the minicell foam, but I think it really does make for a nice solid floor. It also went way faster once I figured out the indentation trick. I was measuring them all out and thinking "dang this is going to take FOREVER." I know DIY Van puts the full sheet underneath and that seems to work well too if you wanted to save some time. The minicell is pretty resilient stuff and compresses to a hard surface pretty much, I wanted to have it at full loft for the insulation properties for mine though.
Yes, I also saw that on DIY Van with the Minicell underneath and I am also looking into that as well, I just need to scan the floor to get an accurate CAD Design. Along with figuring out the proper mounting locations for the L-Track for two removable seats behind the driver's seat. 🙂 👍
@@rcrdesign6540 DIYVan has actual 3D CAD surfaces from Mercedes. That would be so nice. The scan data I have is not good enough to get that level of detail in the ribs, it's really only for nominal dimensions. I wish Mercedes would have a dumbed down CAD available for people that had floor, roof and interior walls.
For my seat behind the drivers seat I'm going with this
alpinevanworks.com/products/double-bench-to-bed-seat
They were kind enough to send me a drawing of the seat and where to put the L-tracks.
Nice work! Floor is sweet!
Thanks Jay! Yeah turned out really nice, quieted down the steel box like crazy and been pretty (California) cold here (38ºF) in the mornings and pleasantly impressed with the thermal break on the feet for such a thin floor!
@@moonrakerdesign Wow that's great to hear about the thermal break performance. My 1/2 ply and 1/2 EPS is not much of a break. Going to add 1/2" Minicell I think. The Coosa is the way to go. Although I love my Marmoleum one piece floor.
@@omjaye Yeah the Marmoleum looks really awesome. I'm sad I didn't do more research before I bought my Lonseal way back when! Oh well on the "next" van lol 😂
Out of sheer curiosity, did you debate at all about the need for floor insulation? The open ribs do provide air flow. How does the floor compress with the insulation?
Hey there, the thought about not using insulation on the floor never crossed my mind actually. What would be your reason for not doing it?
We had a simple bed rug before and the floor became really cold camping in moderate conditions ~50ºF.
I'd recommend reading through this.
sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/73667/post-743095
@@moonrakerdesign Firstly, thank you for replying. I came across your channel and your work is off the rails! Basically, the complexity and intended use. Our proposed van would be more of the RV casual use, warm and moderate weather. I am so glad to see that you used the thinsulate in specific, uncompressed areas, (using your plastic spacers). That made alot of sense. AVC rig I think, makes precut ZIpwall panels with insulation built in. Just curious if the labor, complexity, and materials provides the tradeoff for the mildly increased R value. But I think I am in the minute minority. I have not seen a build without an insulated floor. Keep up the amazing content! Your pop ups specifying your exact materials is perfect. Have you seen a hexagonal hole puller for the rivnuts? Prevents spin out. Thank you again for the replies.
I love it! Z most profesional DIY and outstanding Sprinter van outfiting 🤓
Hey thanks Robert, we really appreciate you taking the time to let us know and glad you are enjoying the content!!
@@moonrakerdesign You assembled the 3 floor panels with the biscuit joinery in your workshop, and I guess you moved it into the van all in one, how difficult was that to get the whole assembly in place without putting too much stress on the biscuits? I'm interested to know how you proceeded. Thanks.
@@robertludwig5308 Super simple. My wife and I did it. We lifted it up on so it was vertical along one of the side edges and carried it into the van lengthwise and then laid it down.
If you lifted it flat you might want to have some extra people in the middle for support. The Sikflex and biscuits probably won't tear or break but it feels a bit too much flex for my comfort carrying it like this from the ends.
What’s up my dudes and dudettes
We are here for it 😃
Great video! And FYI, I always enjoyed your entertaining intro’s!
Thank you for the feedback and the kind words. We are trying a few different things here and there to see how people respond + also get pretty tired sometimes with everything else going on! I have a lot of respect for people who put videos like these together! It's a lot of work!
新年快乐
Happy Year of the Dragon🐉
Hey Dude and Dudette ! Wi R U even considering rerouting your intros. You guys are so PUNY. But seriously, your intros are fun, unique and entertaining. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences on your build.
🤣🤣 Hey Brian! Thanks for the comment and the laugh! It’s been a lot of extra effort to film and add the intros and my dudette is 8 months pregnant now, but we are still trying! Glad the videos are entertaining and happy to share our journey and learnings!! Thanks again.
So cool. Congratulations you guys ! Great lengths are in order for a little FARR.
omg... i am floored like the van 💀
😂The dad joke level is getting real. Can't wait to embarrass my kid 🙂
How do I get your custom lock box cover for a 170 WB? I love the clean look without the screws and the locking mechanism.
Also, why didn’t you go with hydronic floor heating?
Did you use any kilmat on the wheel welsl, walls, ceiling, undercarriage?
Unfortunately I would need a 170 to take measurements and everything on. Unfortunately that’s not on my priority list at the moment.
For the floor heating both my wife and I are really tall and opted for saving standing height over the heated floors. I’m going to branch the hydronic lines for one more air handler in the back of the van though.
You can check my sound deadening video. We put Kilmat in a select few places then hybrid under the front floors doors and behind the headliner. I also recently ordered TecVanLife Duck Liner for the ceiling. I’ll wait to put the kilmat on the wheel wells until the floor is completely done.
Great instructions and video. Wondering if you considered adding a hydronic loop to your floor since you are already using it for your water heater
I did consider it, but because we both are tall and camp and live in a pretty mild climate being able to stand up straight and have a bit more head clearance won the battle. I am going to be putting an air handler in the back for more air heat off the hydronic system for the winter though.
Did you have the coosa board shipped via freight or did you find a local distributor?
I went and picked it up. I called Coosa and they gave me a distributor named RevChem Composites that had a location about an hour drive from my house. I’ve been working with other people to find it for them too though and this brand has been easier for some of them to get … it’s basically the same thing - www.spaceagesynthetics.com/thermo-lite-board-product-line/
Hope this helps.
Hey, did you ever find a mini cell foam with adhesive backing?
Thanks cousin
Good to hear from you cousin Billy!! 😜
I didn’t. I’ve been trying to talk to @tecvanlife about making their duckliner in 0.25” without the foil backing for underfloor. I bought some of the 10mm stuff to test on the ceiling and it’s super nice. So far they’ve ghosted me though. I don’t have a big enough following I guess :(
Well, Okay Smokey- you have a video on that 10 mil stuff going on your roof? And dang it! I think I’m following you…Hope that help? 😅
What is the overall thinkness of your floor?
Total thickness is 3/4”. 1/2 for the actual Coosaboard and 1/4” for the extra layer of minicell and the PVC/FR-4 spacers.
@@moonrakerdesign outstanding! For someone who is 6-1, getting every inch out of the floor is great.
Something I don't understand though.. why the PVC/FR-4 spacers? I guess I didn't understand why, and how you laid out that part???
@@Pro4Sound Sure thing! Technically you don't need to do this step, but it felt weird to put in another layer of minicell insulation between the floor ribs and the subfloor only to have it compressed down when I put my cabinets and weight on top of it. Insulation works best when it batted up for the fiber type or to its full height for the foam.
So what the PVC/FR-4 does is serve as an additional structure under the floor where the cabinets in the van are and the L-track in the floor are being mounted. This gives me a hard stack in those places making sure the minicell in the other areas isn't compressed.
I determined the location of these pieces based on my overall layout. I used the FR-4 ONLY under the L-track since it's super strong (and super expensive) and I wanted a really hard and stable stack up in those areas so the L-track is ultra-secure. The ones in the front will be holding the passengers seat.
If you skipped this step your floor would probably have a little compliance to it, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but would have a little less insulate properties.
I hope this helps.
@@moonrakerdesign one more thing.. sorry.
Where did you find the thin thinsulate? I couldn’t find it anywhere
Hey Todd,
You don't indicate how you fastened the L-track into the van body. Did you rivnut into the floor or through bolt it? Great work by the way.
Cheers,
Al
Hey @royalto3rd. This video is coming soon, but I bolted through with steel plates underneath.