Slashing Silk for a Tudor Costume with Rajiv Surendra and Alexa Figuerres.
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- Äas pĹidĂĄn 17. 05. 2024
- Ripped jeans are a trend with origins going back some five hundred years. For centuries, fashion has been influenced by some very interesting 'accidents'. Join Rajiv and his friend Alexa Figuerres (a professional Menswear Tailor) as she creates the slashes in his Tudor costume. And Please subscribe to our channel!
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â TABLE OF CONTENTS â
0:43 | Alexaâs profession as a menswear tailor
1:00 | Rajivâs curiosity about historic productions
1:14 | Alexaâs involvement in "Only Murders in the Building"
1:27 | Making a coat for Meryl Streep
1:35 | Making a suit for Martin Short
1:45 | Alexaâs work on "The Gilded Age"
2:20 | Process of fitting the toile
2:27 | Adjusting the paper pattern
2:32 | Cutting pieces in expensive fabric
2:36 | Hand-sewing the costume
2:41 | Fitting before adding decorative elements
2:48 | Rajivâs hand-sewing of the costume
3:20 | Explanation of fabric types (silk and satin)
3:31 | Overview of custom-made clothing in the 1600s
3:39 | Use of modern techniques in historical tailoring
4:15 | Importance of proper fitting
5:02 | Process of building up garment stiffness
6:06 | Historical context of custom-made clothing
6:22 | Comparison of working-class and upper-class garments
6:30 | The significance of proper fit
6:42 | Rajivâs experience with custom suits
8:40 | Details on historical menswear silhouette
9:22 | Explanation of tailoring techniques and padding
9:59 | Process of creating slashes in fabric
12:18 | Technical aspects of slashing and fabric stability
14:50 | Alexaâs sample demonstrations
17:00 | Rajivâs preference for subtle detailing
17:20 | Final steps in garment construction
18:00 | Process of creating custom patterns
19:00 | Historical accuracy in costume design
20:00 | Techniques for achieving a perfect fit
21:00 | Role of undergarments in historical fashion
22:00 | Use of embroidery in period costumes
23:00 | Challenges in recreating historical clothing
26:00 | Demonstrating different stitching techniques
27:00 | Incorporating modern technology in tailoring
28:00 | Finishing touches on the costume
28:20 | Final fitting and adjustments
28:40 | Rajivâs thoughts on the finished garment
đĄ TOPICS IN THIS VIDEO đĄ
â˘Introduction by Rajiv Surendra and guest Alexa Figuerres.
â˘Alexa Figuerres' experience as a menswear tailor and costume industry professional.
â˘Discussion of historical costume work by Alexa, including "Only Murders in the Building."
â˘Making a coat for Meryl Streep and a suit for Martin Short.
â˘Alexa's studio creating costumes for "The Gilded Age."
â˘Purpose and process of creating a toile (mock-up garment).
â˘Hand-sewing techniques for period costumes.
â˘Preview of the costume pieces Alexa brought.
â˘Explanation of fabric choice: black silk and Duchess satin.
â˘Differentiation between silk (fiber) and satin (weave).
â˘Description of the costume lining and temporary waistband.
â˘Presentation of the doublet and hose with basting stitches.
â˘Custom-made clothing in the 1600s versus modern transactions.
â˘Historical significance of custom fit and tailoring.
â˘Use of DT (a type of wool) in tailoring for smooth silhouettes.
â˘History of custom-made garments for all social classes.
â˘Importance of fit in historical and modern garments.
â˘Importance of basing adjustments before finalizing the garment.
â˘Historical context of men's tailoring and fashionable silhouettes.
â˘Evolution of padding and tailoring techniques over centuries.
â˘The role of the manservant or valet in historical garment fitting.
â˘Process of slashing as a decorative technique.
â˘Historical origins of slashing in clothing.
â˘Demonstration of slashing and stippling techniques by Alexa.
â˘Comparing historical accuracy and aesthetic choices for slashing.
â˘Decision-making process for choosing the final design elements.
â˘Final decision on using stippling with an awl for a subtle effect.
â˘Technical reasons for placing slashes on an angle to prevent fraying.
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đ´ ** ABOUT THIS CHANNEL **
Welcome to my CZcams Channel! I've been immersed in the creative and domestic arts for all my life and its a real honor to be sharing my interests with you.
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Rajivâs love for making high quality crafts is so inspiring to me. Since I started watching his channel a few months ago, I have started living a much more intentional and fulfilling life
You can tell when you raise your arm how excellent of a job she did on the armscye- as we all know, men in modern suit coats can't raise their arms more than 10 or so degrees before the fabric starts pulling... the arts of tailoring-in a neat fold into the back of the shoulder/armscye has mostly been lost except in some Neapolitan/Savile Row bespoke cutters.
YESSSSSSSS
I'm so happy to see more men's historical clothing content!
Thank you Rajiv and Alexa Figuerres for sharing the history and art, the craft and always such an engaging conversation.
Watching your videos is like going to a museum. Youâre a wonderful curator!
This is an enchanting collaboration.
Fun fact learned from pausing the video to read the costuming book: The suit was owned by Sir Rowland, who was knighted in 1618 by King James I, the Monarch who gave the world the King James Bible.
What a great observation. King James wrote the book Daemonologie so it's very fitting for Rajiv's Halloween costume.
Thank you Rajiv for bringing back the wonderful and lovely Alexa.
I would do alterations if any of my clothes needed. Then I thought why not start sewing first with skirts and later proceed with tougher projects. My mother was an artist, Bharatnatyam dancer, carnatic classic singer, used to do sewing, embroidery and made some 5 dolls. Barbies are crap in comparison. She gave life to the dolls.
In the last two decades, clothing/fashion has taken a nose dive. Even stores like Nordstrom, Saks have crappy clothing and ridiculous styles leading to environmental wastage.
I am very particular about the fitting and the material. The challenging part about sewing is the cutting and understanding and figuring out the correct measurements.
Thanks again for this video.
Totally agree about the quality of clothing, especially after the 2020 worldwide hysteria. đ
so thrilled to see this update! alexa is incredible, a real consummate professional!
I agree. I'm constantly in awe of Alexa's skills.
Wonderful to see and appreciate all the work and care that has gone into making this beautiful piece. Two gracious humans. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching ;-)
I demand a Rajiv/Bernadette Banner collab!
Danke, Alexa, danke Rajiv!
Und jetzt verstehe ich, lieber Rajiv dein Jeanshemd mit den vielen Schlitzen! Es war schon mal ein Vorbote des TudorkostĂźms ...
Sonja aus Stuttgart
You do the most wonderful things Rajiv. Alexa is so adorable. What a beautiful lady. You know so many interesting talented people. Thank you for sharing everything with us.
Thanks Rajiv and Alexa for the awesome video!
You should try making the buttons. Even if you only make the less obvious ones. It's good fun and not as difficult as you'd think. Take it from someone who has been making 17th-century clthing for almost 30 years and is still on the learning curve. Best of luck with your sewing adventures.
Thanks for highlighting this gorgeous artisan Alexa. Rajiv, your videos are always my favorites.
Sincere question, Mr. S. You clearly are an artist - not only by training but conveyed through your soul. I understand the joy you get and give. I think everyone who views you is in sync with you on these. Yet, many of us are held back from investing in such endeavors in ways similar to you. Thus, I hope my question may serve many. If you can, please explain (here or with a video) your philosophy about, a) spending time (⌠energy, money, etc...) doing what pleases you, whether it may serve others (othersâ needs or wants) or not, and, b) how you view the time (energy, moneyâŚ) involved in course-correcting when your aims go awry.
As one example, when stain removal builds to an hour :), which Iâm sure it has occasionally with me, too, it was not built into your lunch plans or into the list of the many plans you likely have on any day ~ what allows you to pursue it rather than limit course correction in any variety of ways (e.g., the garment becomes relegated to one for winter layering or only at home attire, etc.)? The same philosophy, I suspect, fuels or allows or supports most of your endeavors.
Another of countless examples is âallowingâ yourself a storage space for âyour treasuresââŚ. Of course youâve earned the options to rent and create and use the space and its store. Youâre also sharing your joy, even with it! Yet somehow youâre allowing your joy independent of assurance your investments will be beneficial to others. Or, perhaps Iâm wrong, are such thoughts part of your philosophy?
Iâm not critiquing your freedom or creativity. Iâm a viewer who spreads the word about you! :). Iâm trying to find missing or elusive pieces for some of us - in how we can tie together independent enjoyment with commitment to others.
You might infer, when I do things that are principally or seemingly solely for my pleasure I feel Iâm evading my responsibilities to serve greater needs in the world. (I know this is not optimal, yet itâs my leaning.) A further example, though I may spend an unexpectedly long time trying to clean a stain ~ or remediate any other mishap ~ or watching a video that may help, Iâm typically debating throughout whether I should just adapt to âthe lossâ and move on. (to whatâs more important, ultimately, to serving others.).
In sum, a concrete distinction is this: As a child, I could more easily engage with abandon in drawing, dancing, singing, ⌠even reading ~ learning about subjects for my curiosity, enjoyment, and often with an abiding dream of improvement ~ but all without trying to measure my responsibility to others and whether my current endeavor could be valuable to others. I think youâre more able to do these and Iâd love to hear more about the philosophy that both supports your exploration and ties you to your sense of being a good spirit in community with the world as well as ânot wasting timeâ. (The ânot wasting timeâ is my interpretation ~ whether youâve used those words or not ~ of the number of things you at least try as well as your views about positive attitudes. I think you try not to waste time, waste life - yet you also âplayâ.)
Thank you, with or without reply or philosophic exploration.
Perhaps your bonds in childhood fostered even subconscious philosophies, as they typically do. I just long for more âclose workâ on the ties that bind you ⌠đđ˝ đŞĄ
Alexaâs personality is really starting to come out and it SOOO fun to watch. I love these videos and I hope she will continue to make appearances once the costume is completed.
I usually sew a simple tunic dress or pants on the way to SCA{medieval} events since we're usually driving for 3 or 4 hours. It's peasant clotjes, but done when I really can't do anything else productive. That is, until I start knitting socks.
I love these episodes on this fascinating costume, and love learning about the history, and about Alexis and her work. Iâve been looking forward to a continuation of the costume for months and Iâm so happy you did another episode about it. Thank you so much!
Yaay glad to see Alexa in another video!
I love this! I especially love that the sleeves are curved to regard the natural hang of the arms. Very practical.
Love the process for creating the "slashes". This is going to be a fantastic garment when it's finished. I predict you'll definitely win some Halloween costume contests.
Yay! Watching this with my morning coffee
Love everything about this video. Thank you for all of your amazing content. Youâre my inspiration.
Thanks for watching!
My mother made clothes for herself and the family. She was an expert at sewing, knitting, crochet, and embroidery. As a result, her clothes were very professional looking, and she would get requests from outside the family. She always refused because, as well as making clothes, her time was fully occupied with my grandma and cooking. Together, they did catering for village events and weddings.
I do not imagine that there were any other boys in my school who were dressed in hand tailored outfits!
As a child, I used to assist mum by pinning the hemlines in place on her clothes. As a result, I was proficient from an early age at simple tasks like sewing buttons on shirts. When I was 15, mum and dad were on a trip, so I occupied my time making curtains for my room, my biggest job up until then. After that, I had to deal with all of the curtains. Mum said that the invisible stitching that I did on the hemlines was better than she could do. I've also made fully fitted chair covers, and I've done embroidery for other people.
It is so nice to be able to do such things. It gives a great sense of achievement. I recommend anyone to have a go.
wow, this is amazing! I love the idea and the execution. Can't wait for the finished piece!
Tears for the sweetness here. Jeepers! â¤â¤ Thank you dear ones. â¤â¤â¤âď¸
This project as with all of his is amazing!
This was just so utterly fascinating, thank you for sharing!
Thank you for this fun and beautiful video Rajiv and Alexa for her exceptional craftsmanship. It reminded me of the amazing Film Orlando by Sally Potter. It has the most beautiful and mesmerising costumes in it, amongst other in the era of Rajiv's costume. It is a period fantasy drama, one of a kind, never seen anything like it. A must watch in my pov đ
Rajiv can we get a hair video from you one day? Your hair is gorgeous.
The two cutest people on CZcams â¤ď¸âŚ this is such an incredible project. Alexa, your skills make me covetous!
A work of art! I read a lot of history and this explains a lot! Lol saved me from having to look up a bunch of old words and gives context. Support cool vid
Thank you Rajv and Alexa for the amazing đť video â¤đâ¤
Thank you for another great video, Rajiv!
What kind of training does Alexa have? I'm so intrigued by this profession and would love to know how she got to where she is now!! Please consider putting some of these questions in your next video with her
Oh joy! I've been waiting and waiting for this!
I'm so impressed with the process. I love, love love how you document it for us all.
Fascinating and informative. Thank you.
Another wonderful teaching lesson.
Dear Rajiv đ, I discovered you on yt only a few days ago and am inspired and amazed. Would you be open to making a video about your bracelets? I'm sure that there is an interesting story behind them. Many blessings and thanks from Florida...
đđđđ
Yes please! Iâve been curious too. Are those bracelets from his Tamil/Sri Lankan heritage? Where can we get similar bracelets? Help a girl out, Rajiv! đ
So wonderful! I canât wait to see this full costume and I really hope there is a ruff to go with it đ¤
Thank you Rajiv and Alexa for a great video. â¤
Mmmm silk đâ¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤â¤ looking forward to seeing this show!!! I appreciate you both xx
So interesting thank you so much for sharing with us â¤â¤đ
Are you going to have the ruffled collar also? I canât wait to see it all come together. Thrilling! Super cool.
That's the plan!
As always fascinating. Seems tooo good for halloween....
Fascinating!! Loved the history lesson! Looking forward to the video to laundering this garment....will you launder it the way it was done hundreds of years ago?
I'm probably only going to be wearing this once or twice a year, I don't plan on ever washing it. Historically, it was the undergarment (the shirt) that got washed. That's what I'll be doing.
Maybe you can steam it clean if ever needed.
Love itâ¤
Next step, portrait to for 'A beguiling gentleman."
Oh goodness, I do so love the way your vision, and your hand, and your heart, are woven so perfectly and so beautifully into everything you do. This is such an enchanting and fascinating project... Thank you so much for sharing each step of the way with us... đ
And Rajiv... you are going to need some truly special shoes to go with this! I'm crossing my fingers that when this incredible costume is complete, that your next project may be with a cobbler! đ¤
Hey! Love soo much this project. I wanna ask you a vĂdeo about jewelry, specially I am really curious about your bracelets⌠Are they from india? Is there any tradition involved in? Explain me more about them pleaseeee, thank u
I immediately thought of Edward Scissorhands.đ Not sure if itâs the hair on the outfit with white stitching. Wow thatâs so nice though. I love it.
A few other people have said that, and I'm very flattered. Edward Scissorhands was HOTTTTT.
You look fantastic in Tudor fashion Rajiv!
I love the story arc you've been building in your videos to support this project. Starting with the Met exhibit all the way to how to sew an apron (side note: please, one sewing nerd to another, _please_ do an introductory video to your sewing box).
I think of sewing as Grandmother Time - sewing is an old technology so that mistake you've just made has happened a million times before and it always worked out. Presently I'm teaching myself tailoring basics to try and win back some family sewing knowledge that got lost along the way. My Maternal Great Granny could 'eye of rock' a pattern of a dress she had seen in the morning paper (basically freehand the pattern). By dinner she'd have a completed mock-up, ready for the fashion fabric. To the Edwardian she was the fashions of the 1930's must have seemed uncomplicated.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Hello Rajiv! First of all, work is amazing. You said in your keynote speech on the channel that you had people that you find fantastic and will always follow. I think in changing my mind about âold thingsâ has come from you for anything from costumes to writing which I have actually took on. So anyway, thank you and I hope you will have a wonderful day. đ
When you mentioned you'd gone as out to meet your friends in Michael Jackson disguise for the party last Halloween, I thought about Alexa and the Tudor Costume you're collaborating on. Great to see you two party animals back together again!
I canât wait to see this accessorized!! Will there be a hat with an amazing tall crown? Will you carry an armful of tulips??
I've started looking into a hat, I think I found someone to make it. And I love the idea of tulips, thank you!
â@@rajivsurendra
gurl that hat better have feathers in it. and don't forget, you need a pair of square-toed tudor shoes, possibly with big sexy buckles on them. and some silk knitted stocking with ribbon garters.
oh, and the RUFF.
Rajiv! Love love love your channel. I need to get an old lampshade repaired from my grandma in Canada - I live in nyc - where do you recommend I go to get someone to do this for me? Itâs a silk lampshade from the 1940s
This is way out of my league and I've done a lot of costuming for community theater. We had to cut corners. Fantastic sewing!
Alexa is so talented, she has so many wonderful skills. I was wondering where she went to school to learn all the skills.? your videos are always interesting and increases my knowledge of things that you present in your videos. Also, your multitalented yourself, which I admire.
oooh! Only Murders in the Building is my FAVORITE show (it's actually the ONLY show I watch)
Raj is sooo extra! Love him! Where is he going to wear pantaloons.
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Now you have to find a Halloween party worthy of this beautiful costume.
I was thinking that Rajiv should go to the Carnival in Venice.
3:23 Which reference book are you using? There aren't that many with detailed representations of historical costumes
Not the pair of pants to ask "Does my ass look fat in these?".
I want my ass to look really huge in these.
I think you'll be delighted then! đ
i wish I could wear that to work.
Where will you wear it? Please film some of the function so we can see it in action.
Heidi Klum's annual Halloween Party...that's the plan for now.
â@@rajivsurendra Rajiv, you should go to Carnival in Venice with this outfit.
When will you finish reading To Kill a Mocking Bird?
What is the voice he always does? Who is Heidi?
And then the shoes...Or do you already have a pair that works?
The shoes will have to be made. That'll be another video for this channel.
Where's your cod piece?
The time period, the 1610s from which this suit is inspired, is past that time period (1500s - 1590s) where the cod pieces were prevalent. I suspect the confusion lies in the usage of "Tudor" for the video title. "Stuart" would have been better used, but "Tudor" is more friendly for YT algorithm.
Please do a video where you hand stitch in real time so we can do hand stitching together! Like an hour or more long, ideally! đ Since I'm about 3000 miles from you and we don't know each other personally.
Meanwhile, Iâm making a crappy jellyfish costume out of an umbrella hat, a bunch of cheap ribbon and a glue gun. đ
So did the average person have a tailor or did they make their own? Everyone knew how?
Clothes were really expensive back then because it was time consuming to weave fabric, so usually the average person would have acquired second-hand clothes that were slightly out of fashioned and had these altered to fit better, or inherited from deceased loved ones who might have been of the same class or a bit wealthier. You'll often see clothes listed in wills and inventories. Don't forget the sumptuary laws as well - yeah, people actually got fined for dressing beyond their class.
If that was my outfit, Iâd probably gain just enough weight to make it uncomfortable to wear. I donât think Rajiv will have that problem.
Manservant is male, maidservant is female, they can attend to either gender, for example a a maidservant can serve a prince.
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