Should do a follow up vid did it get installed and did it hold up and work properly? Had to have added alil preload to the springs by making the cones thicker at the base like that
It doesn't add preload as the repair plate does not touch the diff cage along the axle axis, it just blocks the rotation (I removed some material from the cage as shown in the video) Now the repair is two years old and everything is fine !
Yes it's from a NBFL 1.8 Did you have the same issue with the same broken part in your RX8 ? I'm a bit worried because I also have a 2005 RX8 with probably the LSD and not the torsen 😅
This is awesome. I just got a TFS from eBay for 200. It seems good, but if it isn’t I’ll probably try and do this with my tig before I buy a 4-700$ type 2 torsen. It’s really impressive how simple the design is, it has what? 6 more parts than an open diff would.
Hi please could you tell me what thickness of steel you used for the repair pieces? I assume you used the die grinder to make more room inside the housing the accommodate the thicker steel plates you welded in? I have my Tochigi Fuji stripped on my bench currently so I will be replicating your repair in the coming week or two :) Thank you! This is the only video I could find online that showed the actual repair process
Hi That's right, I ground the diff case so the new plates do not interfere with it along the differential axis For the thickness, I need to check, I think it was 2mm thick. I don't know if it's really an actual repair process 😅 but it works for me and the few others I did. And be careful with heat management while welding the cones, use a cross pattern and wait between each spot, or the piece could probably warp
@@PierreLeBill Thank you for the extra info and tips, it will really help me out. The options in the UK are to try and repair the Fuji or buy a used Torsen which is 500 Euros+ now, or a new diff centre which is more like 900+ So I think this repair will become more common! I'm considering filming myself doing the repair, then it if works out I will post the vid with commentary as well, as your video was the only one I could find that showed the process at all, and I think other people could attempt this. Did you need to re-set the gear lash after the repair? Finally, why are they called codes? They look more like clutch plates to me (But just with 1 plate instead of the usual clutch pack!) I'm considering filming myself doing it then it if works out I will post the vid with commentary as well, as your video was the only one I could find that showed the process at all. Sorry for all the questions, but much appreciated! Like I mentioned it's way too hard to find info on this online! Thanks again
@@codegreen5213 happy to see it was useful! Yes you need to set the backlash I call it cones just because the friction area is a section of a cone. It's a shame Mazda have never proposed a replacement part by the way... Looking forward to see your video!
I have this exact problem sitting on my bench right now out of a spec miata. Did a lot of internet research and found that our best bet is it buy a torsen. It sucks that you can't just get what should be a $10 part.
Would welding the ring to the cage have the same effect or does it need to be able to move in order to actually lock. I dont understand why the 4 taps are needed.
I don't think it would be a good idea to weld it on the cage, as the mechanical play is useful for the cone to align properly. The pressure would not be even on the friction area
Thats a fair point. I had my fuji repaired a few weeks ago, the guy that repaired it said he welded the cone to the cage. He did mention that it had to be welded in perfectly straigth. I havent come around to installing the diff but I will try to let you know if it locks allright.
Thank you for showing what you did. I have been looking for any explanation how people are fixing these.
Smart method, great fix. Looks like it most probably will never break again.
Did you use just 1/8” plate for the new piece your welded on and clearance the inside to make up that thickness?
Should do a follow up vid did it get installed and did it hold up and work properly? Had to have added alil preload to the springs by making the cones thicker at the base like that
It doesn't add preload as the repair plate does not touch the diff cage along the axle axis, it just blocks the rotation (I removed some material from the cage as shown in the video)
Now the repair is two years old and everything is fine !
Glad to hear it just finished up doing the same thing to my rx8 diff I assume this one is from a Miata. I had alot more material to remove from mine 😭
Yes it's from a NBFL 1.8
Did you have the same issue with the same broken part in your RX8 ?
I'm a bit worried because I also have a 2005 RX8 with probably the LSD and not the torsen 😅
Yup same issue to my knowledge they either came open or w the tofu lsd
This is awesome. I just got a TFS from eBay for 200.
It seems good, but if it isn’t I’ll probably try and do this with my tig before I buy a 4-700$ type 2 torsen.
It’s really impressive how simple the design is, it has what? 6 more parts than an open diff would.
Hi please could you tell me what thickness of steel you used for the repair pieces? I assume you used the die grinder to make more room inside the housing the accommodate the thicker steel plates you welded in?
I have my Tochigi Fuji stripped on my bench currently so I will be replicating your repair in the coming week or two :)
Thank you! This is the only video I could find online that showed the actual repair process
Hi
That's right, I ground the diff case so the new plates do not interfere with it along the differential axis
For the thickness, I need to check, I think it was 2mm thick.
I don't know if it's really an actual repair process 😅 but it works for me and the few others I did.
And be careful with heat management while welding the cones, use a cross pattern and wait between each spot, or the piece could probably warp
@@PierreLeBill Thank you for the extra info and tips, it will really help me out. The options in the UK are to try and repair the Fuji or buy a used Torsen which is 500 Euros+ now, or a new diff centre which is more like 900+ So I think this repair will become more common!
I'm considering filming myself doing the repair, then it if works out I will post the vid with commentary as well, as your video was the only one I could find that showed the process at all, and I think other people could attempt this.
Did you need to re-set the gear lash after the repair?
Finally, why are they called codes? They look more like clutch plates to me (But just with 1 plate instead of the usual clutch pack!)
I'm considering filming myself doing it then it if works out I will post the vid with commentary as well, as your video was the only one I could find that showed the process at all.
Sorry for all the questions, but much appreciated! Like I mentioned it's way too hard to find info on this online!
Thanks again
@@codegreen5213 happy to see it was useful!
Yes you need to set the backlash
I call it cones just because the friction area is a section of a cone. It's a shame Mazda have never proposed a replacement part by the way...
Looking forward to see your video!
Good vid , shame no commentary
I have this exact problem sitting on my bench right now out of a spec miata. Did a lot of internet research and found that our best bet is it buy a torsen. It sucks that you can't just get what should be a $10 part.
Would welding the ring to the cage have the same effect or does it need to be able to move in order to actually lock. I dont understand why the 4 taps are needed.
I don't think it would be a good idea to weld it on the cage, as the mechanical play is useful for the cone to align properly.
The pressure would not be even on the friction area
Thats a fair point. I had my fuji repaired a few weeks ago, the guy that repaired it said he welded the cone to the cage. He did mention that it had to be welded in perfectly straigth. I havent come around to installing the diff but I will try to let you know if it locks allright.
awesome what type of metal are you using for the plate rebuild?