I just picked up my first Yamaha cr-640 I can't believe how this this built. I need to replace all my bulbs as well your video is very helpful and understandable thank you.
I was replacing LEDS on a CR1000 and wasn't sure how to get to the light in the tuning dial. Your video helped me get it done. Also, because the new LED's are a little smaller than the originals, I put shrink wrap near the tips of the lights to fatten them up a little so they fit in more snug. Thanks for the great tutorial vid!
I have the opportunity to buy such a receiver for my NS690II at a good price. Tell me how often the backlight burns out, or how often do you change it? And in general, does the receiver need regular maintenance? Because I hesitate, it might be better to take something from newer models, for example AX890
Three things I noticed about the kits that include LEDs with resistors: (1) the resistor should be rated for the current and voltage in this application. Mine was much too small. If you can't keep your fingers on the in-circuit resistor because it's too hot, your resistor isn't of the proper dissipation rating and you are begging for a meltdown. The sold resistor was a 470Ω 1/4w and it should have been rated for 1w. You can actually wire these in series with a single 1w 470Ω resistor. The actual wattage used is about 1/2w. The supply voltage is 18VDC, not 12. (2) The "warm" LEDs give off a greenish glow. You may be OK with that. I opted for a standard white color, which is bluish. (3) I sanded the LED lenses to give more side light. A standard LED gives 95% or more of its light in a focused, forward direction, unlike the original incandescent bulbs that were almost omnidirectional.
Does anyone know the name of the kit to illuminate the background for the entire AM FM field? I know the indicator is lit up but I think having the entire field looks best with a warm white.
Sean, my parents had that exact same receiver back in the mid 70's, I purchased it for them from Sound Advice in Miami Florida, I use to really jam out with that bad boy lol, wish I had it now! Thanks for the video bud!
I have the same synto-amp, inherited from my father. I am trying to build an Hi-fi set around it as a main amp, but I am struggling to find the right speakers to couple. In fact the Yamaha cr-800 sounds fine, but doesn't seem to be quite punchy and powerful. I took it to the assistance for a check (I can't tell how skilled the technician was), and they told me it is perfectly working. Do you have any good advice on: - how to really check its power conditions - which loud speakers would sute perfectly Thank you very much!
resurrecting an old thread hoping for some advice... Good Video! I did a similar LED update to a CR-820 receiver but now have a pop in one channel/speaker when shutting down. I've eliminated other sources (main filter caps, dc offset, idle current, and relay). I've since learned that the lights are part of the protection scheme and I may have altered the resistance by going to LED. I've seen on the AudioKarma site where others discuss adding a 470ohm (1w) resistor in series to resolve. For the OP (Sean), did you have to do this or have you experienced the pop? I'm interested in others' experience as well and where they wired the resistor - if they did.
I still have my Yamaha stereo (CA-800 amp) from the mid-70s. I cannot get a replacement lamp for my T-60 Tuner. Where did you get your lamps/LEDs? Thanks.
Anyone know a way to customize this and add new LED lights to the tuner open space? I'd like to play with adding lights to the entire strip of the tuner, but I'm not sure where I would solder and draw power from, since this would be an additional draw of power that was not originally intended.
As long as they're efficient new LEDs, you shouldn't need to worry about where to solder them in, they'll still draw much less power than an incandescent. Just make sure they're the correct voltage, and wire them into the feed of any of the other lights.
Just a little info for anyone reading this... With yamaha , if you put in L.E.D. just be sure the replacements have the resister built in on one of the leads or they will burn out.... Also on the CR-620 and im assuming this one in video and other models of yamaha if you use Warm White L.E.D. , your meters and dial will have a greenish look to them.. But if you use Cool White L.E.D., they will have more of a lite blue look... They will look light blue when you install the cool white LED. And it shows light green when you use the warm white LED
I have the opportunity to buy such a receiver for my NS690II at a good price. Tell me how often the backlight burns out, or how often do you change it? And in general, does the receiver need regular maintenance? Because I hesitate, it might be better to take something from newer models, for example AX890
It's one of the best sounding pieces ever. I went through many amps and receivers to find best gear and I only wasted my time. There are more pro looking units like CA-1010 for instance but CR-800 sounds better and heftier.
I just picked up my first Yamaha cr-640 I can't believe how this this built. I need to replace all my bulbs as well your video is very helpful and understandable thank you.
These are some of the best ever made. Good luck!
Thank you so much. I will be working on mine soon and will follow your detailed steps religiously.
Good tutorial, great explanation on how to install the lamps for the dial.This will help me change the lamps on my Yamaha CR-820.
I was replacing LEDS on a CR1000 and wasn't sure how to get to the light in the tuning dial. Your video helped me get it done. Also, because the new LED's are a little smaller than the originals, I put shrink wrap near the tips of the lights to fatten them up a little so they fit in more snug. Thanks for the great tutorial vid!
I have the opportunity to buy such a receiver for my NS690II at a good price. Tell me how often the backlight burns out, or how often do you change it? And in general, does the receiver need regular maintenance? Because I hesitate, it might be better to take something from newer models, for example AX890
Three things I noticed about the kits that include LEDs with resistors: (1) the resistor should be rated for the current and voltage in this application. Mine was much too small. If you can't keep your fingers on the in-circuit resistor because it's too hot, your resistor isn't of the proper dissipation rating and you are begging for a meltdown. The sold resistor was a 470Ω 1/4w and it should have been rated for 1w. You can actually wire these in series with a single 1w 470Ω resistor. The actual wattage used is about 1/2w. The supply voltage is 18VDC, not 12. (2) The "warm" LEDs give off a greenish glow. You may be OK with that. I opted for a standard white color, which is bluish. (3) I sanded the LED lenses to give more side light. A standard LED gives 95% or more of its light in a focused, forward direction, unlike the original incandescent bulbs that were almost omnidirectional.
Does anyone know the name of the kit to illuminate the background for the entire AM FM field? I know the indicator is lit up but I think having the entire field looks best with a warm white.
Thanks for posting! great tutorial. I just need to get up the nerve to open up my receiver.
Sean, my parents had that exact same receiver back in the mid 70's, I purchased it for them from Sound Advice in Miami Florida, I use to really jam out with that bad boy lol, wish I had it now! Thanks for the video bud!
I have the same synto-amp, inherited from my father. I am trying to build an Hi-fi set around it as a main amp, but I am struggling to find the right speakers to couple. In fact the Yamaha cr-800 sounds fine, but doesn't seem to be quite punchy and powerful.
I took it to the assistance for a check (I can't tell how skilled the technician was), and they told me it is perfectly working.
Do you have any good advice on:
- how to really check its power conditions
- which loud speakers would sute perfectly
Thank you very much!
What do you do if one or more of your rubber boot housings are disintegrated?
I didn’t know, you had interest in Hi-Fi stereo too!!
resurrecting an old thread hoping for some advice... Good Video! I did a similar LED update to a CR-820 receiver but now have a pop in one channel/speaker when shutting down. I've eliminated other sources (main filter caps, dc offset, idle current, and relay). I've since learned that the lights are part of the protection scheme and I may have altered the resistance by going to LED. I've seen on the AudioKarma site where others discuss adding a 470ohm (1w) resistor in series to resolve. For the OP (Sean), did you have to do this or have you experienced the pop? I'm interested in others' experience as well and where they wired the resistor - if they did.
Have not had that issue.
I still have my Yamaha stereo (CA-800 amp) from the mid-70s. I cannot get a replacement lamp for my T-60 Tuner. Where did you get your lamps/LEDs? Thanks.
Just search on eBay for "Yamaha (your model) LED's"
Anyone know a way to customize this and add new LED lights to the tuner open space? I'd like to play with adding lights to the entire strip of the tuner, but I'm not sure where I would solder and draw power from, since this would be an additional draw of power that was not originally intended.
As long as they're efficient new LEDs, you shouldn't need to worry about where to solder them in, they'll still draw much less power than an incandescent. Just make sure they're the correct voltage, and wire them into the feed of any of the other lights.
Just a little info for anyone reading this... With yamaha , if you put in L.E.D. just be sure the replacements have the resister built in on one of the leads or they will burn out....
Also on the CR-620 and im assuming this one in video and other models of yamaha if you use Warm White L.E.D. , your meters and dial will have a greenish look to them.. But if you use Cool White L.E.D., they will have more of a lite blue look...
They will look light blue when you install the cool white LED. And it shows light green when you use the warm white LED
I have the opportunity to buy such a receiver for my NS690II at a good price. Tell me how often the backlight burns out, or how often do you change it? And in general, does the receiver need regular maintenance? Because I hesitate, it might be better to take something from newer models, for example AX890
BTW. Do you know the voltage on the bulbs you replaced. I think it's 18v but I'm not sure.
A bit late as a response. But according to the service manual they're 12v 60mA bulbs. The service manual can easily be found online by the way.
It's one of the best sounding pieces ever. I went through many amps and receivers to find best gear and I only wasted my time. There are more pro looking units like CA-1010 for instance but CR-800 sounds better and heftier.
How about the CR1000? Looking for a good option for my NS690II. Especially to pump the woofer well.
@@lubchyck cr-1000 is my favourite amp/receiver but is very loud and the volume potentiometer is not balanced between channels at lower volumes.
Could hot glue be used of calking? 11:58
Sure, I used a flexible material in case I had to remove it easily without breaking the brittle housings. But hot glue would work I would think.
Can you please move next door to me so I can pay you to do this on my Yamaha CR-820? Thanks in advance, and see you soon.
So I'm guessing these are not LEDs but regular bulbs, cause replacing them with LEDs would be more complicated.
No, they are LED's designed for this application to handle the factory voltage. It is a simple replace.
@@seanstraindepot Interesting, are they the ones sold by eBay seller hi-fi-rocks?
Not sure, I don't have the purchase History anymore to see it. It was too long ago.