Great video. A little tip I learned during my apprenticeship is to leave the blank and air vent out until it’s hung so you have two holes to stick your fingers in (with gloves on) to lift it if you’re on your own. I always found if I held the radiator by its sides, the panels would always slip off
Great video Derek. I'm just about to fit a new radiator in the same position as the old radiator, just like in the video. I knew it was critical to fix the new radiator to align exactly with the existing pipes and you have shown me some great tips on how to do this. Big thanks.
Good video on the basics for radiators.. Would be good to see moving a radiator. Cutting up floorboards or even chipboard and putting it back. What method do you use when choosing a central heating system type (Combi / unvented cylinder etc) and boiler size / radiator sizes on a new install?
Brilliant. Step by step guide. Can be understood by absolute anyone and everyone. Nice to see the customer is always at the forefront! Putting the bleed on the right even though it looks like you as the installer are left handed. Then you allowed the black water to spill on your face rather then the customers wall 🤣. Question time 😬. What’s the minimum distance/height you should have from the floor to the bottom of the radiator? How many rounds of PTFE would you normally apply. For example, at the tails.18? Thanks Derek 👍🏻 Asian Jon. Training.
They’re always good videos but no one goes into the detail of securing the brackets to the wall. My radiator is on plasterboard, it must not have been secured properly because it has fallen off the wall and ripped large holes in the plasterboard. I thought it was good practice to secure brackets to vertical studs. This is not always possible so what are good fixings to secure/repair plasterboard?
Does the customer need to be left with no hot water? I would just set the boiler to DHW only, isolate the flow and return and drain down the heating system, but not the boiler. Also the orientation of the F & R doesn't make any difference UNLESS it's a column rad with a baffle fitted. In which case the flow needs to be positioned on the side with the baffle.
I know this should be obvious, but for any amateurs watching, before replacing any rads with a bigger one do make sure that the boiler has sufficient capacity to power it adequately.
@@oneoflokis You need to do some calculations, and lots of measuring etc. like I had to before ordering my rads. Although it helps if you know the make of the existing radiators and what series they are etc. then you might be able to find some specification data, but even then it depends on how old the rads are and what delta T figure they were made to as that has changed over the years, the current figure most commonly used is delta T 50, which is the difference between the target room temperature, typically 20c, and the average temperature of the water in each radiator. But usually, you just have to do it the hard way and measure up the various parts of each room and look up the U values for each feature, like brick walls, doors, windows, ceiling etc. and try and determine the heat requirements for each room but of course the radiators might not be properly matched to each area, you usually work out the heat requirement and then add 15% to allow for really cold weather. And with the boiler, which should also be at least 15% overrated you can sometimes find the service manual somewhere online but not always, and the boiler rating should be in there, or else on a plate somewhere on the boiler itself, but sometimes the info will have worn away with time and I've got a boiler where that has happened and left the plate blank, but luckily there was just enough info still there to identify the model and I found the manual online. And older back boilers in smaller houses like mine, a small, terraced town house, were often underrated and couldn't fully power up the rads and the hot water cylinder at the same time so there was always a compromise. To make the old back boilers big enough to fully power up both systems at once the boilers would've had to be too big to fit in some fireplaces. And to power up both systems at once at full power in a house like mine the boiler would need to be at least 20kW, but the older back boilers were generally only about 13 to 16 kW. And the U values and calculation formulas etc. can usually be found in a good book on central heating or somewhere online. And some books on the subject are a bit out of date like one I've got where it's all in fahrenheit and British thermal units, really hard work, it's much easier with kilowatts and degrees C.
How about just sticking a piece of light coloured insulating tape on the rad where you need to mark it so you don't get your marks on the rad itself, and then mark the patch of tape, and then you can remove it after without leaving any marks on the rad.
Ratch Riat because one I didn’t want to get heating water all over the carpets and 2 I needed to mate alterations to the pipe work on the towel rail which I didn’t show in the video. Hope that helps and thanks for watching cheers
Great video. A little tip I learned during my apprenticeship is to leave the blank and air vent out until it’s hung so you have two holes to stick your fingers in (with gloves on) to lift it if you’re on your own. I always found if I held the radiator by its sides, the panels would always slip off
Use a rubble sack to drain the water into screwfix are the best sacks for draining 👌
Great video Derek. I'm just about to fit a new radiator in the same position as the old radiator, just like in the video. I knew it was critical to fix the new radiator to align exactly with the existing pipes and you have shown me some great tips on how to do this. Big thanks.
Good attention to detail - very good Derek!
Thank you for the video, I am studying plumbing and I think you are good at explaining and simplifying things. Excellent teacher,
Excellent. Thanks Derek. 😀👍
Well done Derek I learnt a lot and it’s easy to remember 👍🏼💐🙂
Excellent Derak
Excellent Derek
Excellent video ! Thanks you
Another excellent Video " So Let's get on with it "
Good video on the basics for radiators.. Would be good to see moving a radiator. Cutting up floorboards or even chipboard and putting it back.
What method do you use when choosing a central heating system type (Combi / unvented cylinder etc) and boiler size / radiator sizes on a new install?
Great video
Good idea is to use fixed holes on one side and up and down hole on the other bracket 👍👍
Brilliant. Step by step guide. Can be understood by absolute anyone and everyone. Nice to see the customer is always at the forefront! Putting the bleed on the right even though it looks like you as the installer are left handed. Then you allowed the black water to spill on your face rather then the customers wall 🤣. Question time 😬. What’s the minimum distance/height you should have from the floor to the bottom of the radiator? How many rounds of PTFE would you normally apply. For example, at the tails.18? Thanks Derek 👍🏻
Asian Jon. Training.
Thanks derek👍 Benny
Very nice 👍
great video as usual
I would love if you can make video about the Flue subject , it will be great
Thank you
Excellent 🥰✌
Good video helpful
Nice one.
Be nice ro see a video how to do the towel rail with pipes that come up from the floor so to convert from a radiator to a towel rail.
Very nice
Subscribed.
Yr a legend mate
Thank you
They’re always good videos but no one goes into the detail of securing the brackets to the wall. My radiator is on plasterboard, it must not have been secured properly because it has fallen off the wall and ripped large holes in the plasterboard. I thought it was good practice to secure brackets to vertical studs. This is not always possible so what are good fixings to secure/repair plasterboard?
Creme de la menthe job Derek. 😃
Hussain
Can you do a video for a column radiator plz?
Thank you.
Great vid .shame old brackets not at same high as new brackets at back of rad then new ones would only need putting further apart.
Waaaaayyy it's Wednesday. See you tomorrow guys!
👌🏽
Shouldn't the air bleed valve be on the opposite side to the flow inlet so that it drives the air out faster when you're bleeding it out?
It doesn’t matter what side the air bleed is, it just needs to be at the top.
Do u do portfolio building
Alternative Facts yes we do but only for the trainees that have trained with us
👍💯
Does the customer need to be left with no hot water? I would just set the boiler to DHW only, isolate the flow and return and drain down the heating system, but not the boiler. Also the orientation of the F & R doesn't make any difference UNLESS it's a column rad with a baffle fitted. In which case the flow needs to be positioned on the side with the baffle.
I need a rad fitting in my bathroom could u help
👍
er..the most important bit ? connecting the rad??
Wow looks like you spend more time in the classroom than on site.
That is very true I spend little time on site now and when I do I do as little as possible. As the old saying goes why have a dog and bark yourself.
I know this should be obvious, but for any amateurs watching, before replacing any rads with a bigger one do make sure that the boiler has sufficient capacity to power it adequately.
How do you find that out though??
@@oneoflokis You need to do some calculations, and lots of measuring etc. like I had to before ordering my rads. Although it helps if you know the make of the existing radiators and what series they are etc. then you might be able to find some specification data, but even then it depends on how old the rads are and what delta T figure they were made to as that has changed over the years, the current figure most commonly used is delta T 50, which is the difference between the target room temperature, typically 20c, and the average temperature of the water in each radiator. But usually, you just have to do it the hard way and measure up the various parts of each room and look up the U values for each feature, like brick walls, doors, windows, ceiling etc. and try and determine the heat requirements for each room but of course the radiators might not be properly matched to each area, you usually work out the heat requirement and then add 15% to allow for really cold weather. And with the boiler, which should also be at least 15% overrated you can sometimes find the service manual somewhere online but not always, and the boiler rating should be in there, or else on a plate somewhere on the boiler itself, but sometimes the info will have worn away with time and I've got a boiler where that has happened and left the plate blank, but luckily there was just enough info still there to identify the model and I found the manual online. And older back boilers in smaller houses like mine, a small, terraced town house, were often underrated and couldn't fully power up the rads and the hot water cylinder at the same time so there was always a compromise. To make the old back boilers big enough to fully power up both systems at once the boilers would've had to be too big to fit in some fireplaces. And to power up both systems at once at full power in a house like mine the boiler would need to be at least 20kW, but the older back boilers were generally only about 13 to 16 kW. And the U values and calculation formulas etc. can usually be found in a good book on central heating or somewhere online. And some books on the subject are a bit out of date like one I've got where it's all in fahrenheit and British thermal units, really hard work, it's much easier with kilowatts and degrees C.
How about just sticking a piece of light coloured insulating tape on the rad where you need to mark it so you don't get your marks on the rad itself, and then mark the patch of tape, and then you can remove it after without leaving any marks on the rad.
Did you level up the rad for aesthetic or plumbing reasons?
I installed a bigger rad in the bedroom as it was undersized
@@tomkatgastraining - Sorry, what I meant was why did you spirit level up the top of the rad? Was there a plumbing reason for this?
@@Benzknees just checking the rad was level because every customer will always say it’s not level because everything around it isn’t
I don't understand why you have to drain the radiator if you are reaplacing them with a same size enjoyed the video.
Ratch Riat because one I didn’t want to get heating water all over the carpets and 2 I needed to mate alterations to the pipe work on the towel rail which I didn’t show in the video. Hope that helps and thanks for watching cheers
Chris taylor
Is there any workman in the world who doesn't, first of all, slag off the previous workman for everything he did?