Worm Gear Replacement Tutorial -16mm B&H 1500 Series Projector
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- For inquiring minds,this is a worm gear replacement on a 16mm Bell&Howell 1500 Series(1545B)projector.Many have had questions on "How To?"but are worried on how to proceed,all projectors are different as far as how they are built inside.I attempt to take you through a process of pretty much common sense way to replace the dreaded worm gear in the Bell&Howell 16mm machines.I am an amateur when it comes to making a video and narration,this does take careful focus,photos and notes of the disassembly and the reassembly of parts related to the 1500 series projector.Please be aware this video is for instructional purposes.Supplies and parts by Urbanski Film Supplies.Any questions I will do my best to answer.You can also follow more in depth updates on Facebook: ' The Big Reel Group"
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Keep the hobby alive!!!!!!
This is an amazing video and was instrumental in my successful replacement of a broken worm gear. If someone reading this is contemplating the fix, I will say it’s quite involved and you need a healthy dose of patience and a well stocked tool box to pull it off. That said, this is the video to follow. No question. Thank you!!
Could not have replaced my worm gear on my projector without your video. Followed your instructions to the letter and had no problems. My Bell & Howell runs like new! Thanks!
Glad to hear it helped you
Thank you for sharing this insightful video. I just purchased a 1580 on ebay supposedly with a burned out motor when in reality it has a split worm gear, wish me luck!
I have several of these... Thankfully the worm gears are good.. Good on ya to tackle this..
Who ever came up with all this wonderful old technology.. Not something for me to tackle..
Only a select few would be interested in watching this.. Thanks for posting.
I need a worm gear and drive belt for my 2585 I can buy from you if at all possible thank you.
Great Video! Thank you On some B&h projectors there is a 015533 Lower Sprocket Gear 1575/1580/2580 On which i replace also with the worm a lot on times its cracked where the film bunches up at the sound drum this gear should be replaced even if its not bad . its as old as the old worm gear I have these in stock RC's Classic Collections
I need help need parts for a bell&Howell 2585 . Where can I get a worm gear and drive belt. If you can send me advice I am ready to order. Thank you.
@@rudyflores8886 www,urbanskifilmsupplies.com
The link below Urbiski film supply can handle your order. They helped me with my worm gear and other things.
@@rudyflores8886 if you are looking for films you can also join my group on Facebook "The Big Reel Group" link: facebook.com/groups/1222952484713237
I just ordered one from you
Trabalhei em uma oficina de reparos em equipamentos cinematográficos durante 12 anos. Os B&H eram os que mais davam entrada para reparos, principalmente essa engrenagem helicoidal partida. Foi um grande erro da B&H usar nylon na confecção dessa peça imprescindível para o bom funcionamento do projetor. Deixou muitos operadores prejudicados durante exibições.
A solução que encontramos era levar a peça danificada para um torneiro mecânico de precisão que a replicava em bronze, resolvendo definitivamente o problema.🇧🇷
Thanks so much for making this video! Could never have figured it out otherwise. Only had to take it apart twice!
By the way, thank you for making such a great video. I could have never taken apart and rebuilt this projector without it. Also, as a note, you don't have to have the Bristol tools that are sold as a kit. I got the small vortex screwdriver set from Harbor Freight and it worked fine. The most common screwdriver part was the 9mm vortex, six-side.
You have to be careful,the bristol spline are specific to the bell and howell set screws,if you strip the teeth in those you will not be able to use any other allen or vortex to get them out,the bristol tool is N66 available from Test Equiptment Depot for $6,plus you need 2 other bristols for the other size setscrews.Just a warning.
9:40 "An' this gear jus' pops right out..." ...When you said that, I wondered if it would actually pop off, and it didn't dissapoint ;-). Thanks for posting this, and for being brave enough not to stop the vid to look for that e-clip that sproinged earlier. I just bought a 1550 cast-off from a video equipment rental establishment because i have a sound film of my great-grandfather from 1935 for which i had rented a 16mm 30 years ago to videotape, which afterwards i copied to DVD thinking the DVD would last forever. Well the DVD no longer works, and i can't find the original VHS, and no one rents 16 mm any more. The establishment turned the machine on and it seems to work, and didnt seem too noisy, but i didn't want to bring my film with me so i didn't actually check it with film, and still have not yet, for various reasons. Your vid gives me confidence that i can fix the worm gear if it doesn't work properly. I am surprised that the sound systems on these do not seem to be problematic, considering capacitors do not last forever. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Super video which will help many people.
4 months to do the first one... I got ya.. I remember trying to set the timing on a 48 Victor...
Amazing amount of know how to fix that. What would you charge someone to fix a projector ? Belt and Worm gear ? thank you.
Pretty good walk through. I wish though, you had worn a helmet cam or moved the chassis over some, as I could not see any of your adjustments of the loop restorer. Also, there isn't any CZcams videos that I've seen, that cover replacing the worm gear on a 500 series with still frame feature. That's what I have and Urbanski doesn't sell a worm gear for any model with the still feature. There were a lot of parts on the worm gear shaft that ended up being junked, because the still feature can no longer be used. Your video and the British guy's video, helped me a lot, so cheers 🍻
Yes,sorry was the first video, the loop restorer itself should not need an adjustment,the reason I use countdown leader is to make sure the outer upper and lower sprocket wheels are in alignment, so if the countdown numbers(looking thru the front of the lens carrier align to the frame opening in the gate without tripping the restorer the alignment should be good,as far as the still feature,or is a pain,I have only done 2 of them,since then I just remove the entire still feature from all the rebuilds,thanks for watching!
Van Eck now reproduces the Bell & Howell # 09784 worm gear for projectors with the still picture feature.
shop.van-eck.net/PP-0051.html
How much time do you recon that someone who hasn't done this before but is a handyman would spend on this?
I'm going to replace the worm gear on my 535. Can you tell me how many different Bristol flute screw sets I need and the sizes.
Thank you, in advance, for your response.
Thank you sir for this video!! I found a dealer in Belgium for the Xcelite 99PS60 set of Bristol screwdrivers. In an answer of one of the reactions you talk about n66. Could you please have a look in the webshop of The equipment depot and let me know if the 99PS60 serie contains all of the needed blades for the 1698 B&H projector? May I also ask you if changing the worm gear of this 1698 projector is much different of the one you show us (1545)? Thank you and greetings from Belgium.
Wow what a pain in the a#$. I'm getting ready to do my 2585 as it's split in half. I hope it's a lil easier. Can't find a worm gear for under $94 shipped either.
How would you approach getting the timing right on a 1574 that does not have loop restorers?
What sizes of Bristol tool do you need. I heard you mention a 66n
Do you have a source for the gears? They seem to be sold out on ebay.. Also, about how much time should a newbie budget to do this?
$94.00 shipped for worm gear, $65.00 for the bristol wrenches, geeze they really know how to screw a guy just to watch my old movies.
hi. my film inside the projector is moving fast and jumb,after i installed warm gear.maybe i didn't put the frame right, is not plear the picture,i try to move the focus lens but nothing..can you give me one advice what to do.the projector is grabing the film, it has good sound but no picture the imagine is foggy not clear and vertical lines.
Any suggestions on a good agent or technique to use to remove all the old grease
After watching your video probably a hundred times, I give up. I posted on your Facebook page about how I could ship my projector to you for final repairs. Please let me know. Thank you.
Does anyone know where I can get a motor capacitor for my b&h
Model 1585
Mine blew up
I replaced the worm in my 1574, but I obviously didn't get it sync'd. Playing film is a third at the top, 2/3rds below. I'll go in one more time, but how do I know it's correct? Can I send you just that part to sync?
do you know that at the end of each shuttle arm is a very small single roller bearing that the shuttle teeth sit on.
yes I do know that
john, it was omitted from your tutorial and first timers need to know about these tiny bearing, best
And behind some of the plastic gears might be a clear plastic thin shim washer or two so don't lose them.
Thank you for this tutirourial I tryed www.filmtech.com for parts but google could not fiind it. Can you help?I need worm gear and drive belt for my 2558 BH Thank You.
I'm just a bit unclear at the end here, when your run the test strip through the chassis. Exactly how can you tell that everything is accurately in alignment? Obviously, I don't want to put the entire thing together and find out there's something that needs to be tweaked. Can you outline specifically how to do this final once-over and what you're looking for in the test strip?
The countdown leader test is to check for alignment and timing after the new worm gear is installed,thread this like you would if you are going to watch a film,leave a proper upper loop and a proper lower loop at the bottom of the loop restorer roller,turn the pulley wheel in the direction(forward)to imitate the film running through.The you will be looking inside the front of the lens carrier to see the countdown numbers are in frame alignment,and that the claw shuttle is not causing pulled sprockets or causing the loop restorer to trip,if it does this then your timing is off,make sure your framer is aligned which you can also see looking into the lens carrier where the frames of film in the aperture plate,if the test countdown leader does not trigger the loop restorer then your timing and alignment should be proper and the chassis is ready to be installed,after it is installed,if there is any wow or flutter,or ghosting,then timing is not proper and you will have to remove the chassis and make timing adjustments.
I have a factory made "run-in" projector. It's basically a half built projector they pulled off the production line. You can slide the projector mechanism into it easily. Then you can check it with the mechanism running with a projection lamp behind it and with a lens. That way you can check framing adjustment, side-to-side picture focus, steadiness, and if any ghosting of titles occurs. I also have a projector mechanism stand which allows you to run the mechanism from 6 frames per second to 30 frames per second with a variable speed control. That was built by a now deceased Bell & Howell technician in Australia. The mechanism stand allows full access to most parts of the mechanism, even while running.
Is this good to use for a 2585 ? Also, what do you go by in the 16mm group? Couldn't find anyone under " highrollersmusic1. " Thanks for all you've done here ! Anxious to get started on my 2585 !
Hi, the worm gear is stuck to the rod, in the video it slides right off. I completely removed the set screws on it and the loop restorer cam. I've managed to hammer it to the end of the rod, but it is stuck as if it is bolted in. Any clues?
So sometimes the old lubrication has hardened causing the worm gear to slide,reattach the shaft,leave the set screws out and thake a flat head screwdriver with a small hammer and tap it loose,you can also get a spray lubrication and spray around both sides of the worm gear where the shaft goes into before attempting to tap it loose from the shaft.
After another 20-25 hours working on this, I've put it together but can't get the gear at 9:35 to "catch" and turn the other gears. I have taken this off, replaced the U clip from another projector and also changed out the gear. Do you have any tips on what it can take to make this all work. Other than this, it appears everything else is good.
The first gear wheel at 9:35 has a square indentation that has to sit exactly as the U clip is in its position,make sure that gear wheel is pressed as you re assemble the washer,curved washer and c clip,those washers and c clip must be depressed tightly to that gear wheel.There is a possiblity that c clip and or that gear is not seeded properly.
And at 37:44 you have a bit of a problem getting the wormscrew rod out and then at 37:45 you have the ball bearing in your hand. What happened in the black zone? I can't get this out very easily either and I don't want to damage it.
I forgot to loosen the setscrew on the loop restorer cam,directly to the right of the worm gear
I would really love to know what tool you used to take out the bottom two screws that are holding the wormscrew chassis. This is at about 20:49, where you show the needlenose pliers lifting out the screw. I have purchased 4 different rachets and two pliers and still can't find a way to get to these bolts. If I could take off the motor in the front, that would be easier, but I can't get the back left screw out of the motor frame. Any suggestions?
8mm metric socket,with and extended, you well either,"A" loosen the 3 flat head screws that the sound drum roller mechanism attaches and slide that to your right so your socket goes through the one of the holes in the big sound wheel,or remove that sound wheel completely,that wheel maybe either solid wheel plates,or a wheel that has 3 giant holes,it is usually being held on with an E clip using a flat head to pop off that clip,there is a tension curved washer behind that clip,so make sure you do not lose it.
@@HighRollersMusic1 My sound drum roller on the 2586 model is brass and solid. No holes in it at all. I finally got those two screws out with a 8 mm socket and an extended 1/4" socket drive. Anything bigger and you can't get the socket back there.
This tutorial is for the 2592AX model? It is from the 2500 series, and I have the worm gear broken.
no 1500 series as stated on the video and titles before video starts
Ahhh ok.
In the instructions of Manual Repairs say for 1500, 2500 series.
They are similar as far as the worm gear change goes,but the video is a 1500 series model
First try on my rental store cast-off 1530 purchase, and the film autoloads to the pickup reel ok, but machine slows and stops once i get the film on the take-up reel and doesn't want to move forward any more. But turn knob to reverse and film backs out no problem. Machine runs Fwd fine with no film loaded, but stalls once film reaches the takeup reel. I only had a few moments to play with it before wifey rushed me onto other things. Could the introduction of the thin film really put that much drag on it? It had no problem running the film backwards. The reverse button on top of the machine was frozen when i got it, now there's no resistance when i press it. Could the reverse button be causing my issue?
Have you changed the motor belt?Film will not cause drag in this situation,the reverse button....the takeup arm should be in the upright position for proper film rewinding.Also you will have to look inside your machine on the inside at the location of the rewind button and make sure the two white gear wheels are engaging in both forward position and rewind position.The autoload mechanism is something i never use,I always manual thread my projectors.
@@HighRollersMusic1 - Thanks for the reply, and i have good news to report. You were right on the money. It wasn't the film, it was the takeup reel drive belt and pully fully gummed-up with a black tar-like substance causing the belt to stick to itself and the drive and idler pulleys. The machine would not do the regular rewind, and i saw it was because the takeup pulley belt was sticking to itself and the pulleys. And ha ha I learned the hard way that one cannot "half-ass" a repair on these machines. I cleaned the metal pulley but not the nylon pulley or the belt, and it immediately gummed up the works again. So i had to do it all over again, this time making both pulleys and the belt spotless. Here's a link to a couple portions of my first test. I was so excited i forgot to record right away. I will be privatizing this shortly, though. czcams.com/video/wbWrHE0xBf8/video.html czcams.com/video/O-fTOH8APvE/video.html
Where do I buy all the tools I'll need, to fix my 1585 c bell and howell, 16mm filmosound projector, is there a website I go to, I'm replacing the worm gear
www.urbanskifilm.com
Thank you very much, while I'm repairing it, I'll follow your video, and record myself for my own records
Larry Urbanski of Urbanski Film sells the reproduction worm gear as well as the Bristol wrenches needed to loosen/tighten all of the setscrews. He also has reproduced the special Bell & Howell gages/jigs called out in the service manuals such as the Sprocket Timing Plate, Loop Restorer setting tool, and the Soundhead Locating Gage. Larry also sells complete Bell & Howell service/parts manuals.
@@Sunsetdrivein cool thanks for the information, I'll take a screenshot of all this
How different is this procedure for installing the worm gear specifically for B&H projectors with the "still function"?
You will remove the still function mechanism completely
I have a Bell & Howell TQ3 1695 it needs a new worm gear I'm looking for anyone who could do this replacement for me please holla me
If you are not in the United States you will have to try to find someone near you,you can also go onto Facebook,they have film pages with members all over the world that may do worm gears for your Bell&Howell
My apologies l thought you was in UK