Woodworking - Making Raised Door Panels with a Router and Router Table
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
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Full show notes. Making your own door panels is easy and cost effective when you know the techniques.
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Thanks for taking the time to comment, great to have you with us
Colin
I have existing doors that I’m cloning; they’re a cross between the two types you’ve described. They’re raised panel but flush with the rails and stiles; the rear side of the panel is recessed 1/8”. I’ve planed down the doors by that 1/8”, so I hope I didn’t screw up.
This was an exciting project. Very rewarding. I keep a journal wherein I write what I learn from my trials and errors.
I'm pretty sure that wood was 3/4" it could have been slightly more, but I normally work with 3/4. Thanks for asking, great to have you with us
Colin
Thanks for commenting, these kinds of comments help to keep us inspired.
Great to have you with us and thanks for taking the time
Colin
A very good video it will help many people. The comments on expansion of timber is very useful.
Thanks for commenting ... glad you found it useful :)
Colin
very easy to follow and understand, thanks for the videos and keep posting them sir thanks
Great video! Thank you for your efforts. I have learned a lot by watching you.
Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us :)
Colin
Hello Colin - an oldie but goodie. I've been enjoying your videos! One question on this one: what is the size is the back cutter bit you used? I understand you mention it's a 1/2 inch shank but no mention (unless I missed it) of the actual size of the bit. Thanks in advance and keep up the great videos!
Thanks, Colin, I found this very useful!
Thanks for watching!
very helpful
Thanks!
Thanks for the reply - I am using the same brand, but in a classroom - the teacher says that the bits are raggedy -- been used a lot
Yes, even Freud bits when well used can get dull resulting in raggedy cuts, but they can be re-sharpened by a qualified sharpening shop.
Hello and thank you. Excellent video.
The raised panel router bit looks somewhat scary - your setup had a massive metal bracket or something just above and behind the bit - what was that about? Also, did you use a custom insert for the router plate that was sized to the panel bit?
Do you have to use mdf for the panel? I'm not doing a raised panel, just a flat panel 1/4 Inch? Thanks for the video
After back cutting my panel it has a big gap b/t the rail and stile. What can I do to close that gap?
I was eventually going to get into making my own frame and raised panel style doors made from pine. Ive never used those big Raised Panel Bits before. What is the incremental adjustments you should make on the bit ; when making your 1st-3 passes? As I am an amature with the Router, I would like to use the proper methods when making my profiles with the larger 1/2" bits.
see you message box
1/4 of inch space which allows for 1/8 inch on each side? Then add space balls before gluing? Just restating what I understand from this video
Have you ever worked with vertical raised panel bit? I was looking for a router to make raised panels and the only suitable I found was porter cable and it did not have any modern features. Has festool made anything for raised panels?
I just have one question is that 3/4 wood or is it thicker than that???
What about cutting rail/styles and panel to size and then sending through planer to make sure all 3 are same thickness
I am looking at using 12 amp 2 hp router with adjustable speed. Is that good enough for the raised panel?
What router do you have
Can a raised panel cabinet door be cut using a 1/4 shank bits?
Are you nailing these doors? Or do you just glue them together?
Gluing them together, the pins driven in on the back of the joint are just to hold the frame from moving until the glue dries, saves using tons of clamps and works equally well
After watching several video's you did say you were going to make several passes.
Most of the video's say we will give it three passes. I was wondering why not 5 or 6 or more ? I think I got my answer. Next question, is I have looked several places at these 3 peace router sets to do the raised door panels .Some start at about $50 up to a couple hundred buck. I read through the reviews and they all say about the same thing.
They all do a good job. I was figuring if I say with a name brand I would be better off,
such as Freud or Bosch. That's around the $130 -$150 mark.
I have a Bosch 1611 router 3 hp variable speed, should work.
Awesome post u have a new followee
Awesome!
I AM having problems with cutting horizontal pieces. What is the largest router bit used in making raised panel doors?
Hi M, if the pieces aren't aligning, I am suspect that it's the bits and not your technique. I have seen some of the poor quality bits that don't actually align as I mentioned in my other note to you. I use Freud bits, but have not used the passageway door bit set, but others have and loved them, but I'm sure there are other quality bits out there as well.
Hi I want to do raised panel door and i have a milwaukee router 5625-20 of 3 1/2 HP. Do you think it works with this?
Quiroztube Yes, you should have plenty of power with a 3.5 hp unit like that.
How powerful of a router do I need to use? Thanks!
Excellent question Seth, you will need a router that will take 1/2" router bits, most manufactures want to have a least a 2hp router in order to drive these bits, but with routers, more is always better so get the most horsepower (or highest amperage) you can afford.
Thanks and nice video!
i made raised panel and it did not fit into frame -- I had to sand it down to make it fit -- it was too thick-- what do I do to make it fit ? The frame fit together- then when I added the panel it did not fit
M Geez Could be you did everything fine, I am assuming you did this on the router. There are some brands of router bits that do not mesh as well as they should. The only thing that I can think of off the top of my head that you could have done wrong is that in cutting the raised panels, the wood did not bottom out on the raised panel bit, but if you are sure you did that, then I am suspect it is the bit in some way.
WoodWorkWeb I am not sure what you mean by the wood did not bottom out on the raised panel bit - please explain
M Geez Does your raised panel bit have a back cutter? Even if it doesn't there is a point near where the shaft goes through the bit, that the wood is meant to ride on. Sometimes there are bearings at this location but not always. If the wood does not ride on this bearing or centre point the cutter may not be cutting deep enough into the board.
What brand of cutters are you using?
WoodWorkWeb Freud -- ok -- I believe that you are correct -- that it may not be cutting deep enough into the board -- so what do I look for in a cutter before I cut the board -- or what do I do to make sure it will fit together before I cut it -- is there something that I can do when I do the setup? What about doing a vid on measuring or fitting together when working with router bits. Measuring small spaces ?
M Geez I am assuming that you were using the router fence when you cut the raised panel doors, what I am guessing is that you did not isolate the center of the raised panel ... that is, make the center of the raised panel bit exactly even with the fence ... that's all, easy to make this error, I have done it myself.
Mm