As soon as I wire one for non derailing I'll make a video on it. That said It will not be anytime soon as I don't have any big O gauge projects in the works. I'll put it on my white board though.
Very helpful vid! And just in time! Gonna be soldering feeder wires soon! I tried soldering feeders to the rail joiners, but I think its not as easy as soldering directly to the rail. Thanks! ☕🍻👍
Provided you use the right flux it’s just as easy to to solder to the rail joiners as the track or even buss. Oatly 95 is seriously magic compared to the garbage flux sold in hobby kits
I use chocolate bars to collect feeder wires in a small area. Then, I can run a single wire to the bus. Or, I use Wago connectors to collect several wires, running a single wire to the bus.
@@MRBenchwork Yes--terminal strips, with a cross strap to tie the wires together. The Wagos are neat, too. They come in different configurations, to tie 2, 3, or 4 wires together, with one wire out. All solderless.
@@jamescraft672 I like Wagos but I'm still looking for that magical connector I can use on a buss without cutting it. Once I find it, I'll probably make a dedicated video on the topic. My main concern is I don't want to cut the buss wire because I worry about adding resistance into the wiring system unnecessarily.
@@MRBenchwork Amen to that. Also, I avoid soldering beneath the table. For connecting the feeders to the bus wires, I use 3M Scotchlok 953K self-stripping T-taps and 71M-250-32-NL Scothlok quick disconnects. They are easy to install. I have also used the suitcase connectors, but I like these T-taps much better (much easier to install). You also can disconnect them if necessary for fault isolation. I use the WAGO connectors when it is necessary to have a branch in the bus wiring and (as described above) to minimize the numbers of feeder wires connected to bus wires.
Provided you space them out, there's really no need to wrap them in electrical tape. That said there's no harm in doing it either so it's really up to you. I like to leave 2 inches of separation (5cm) so even if things shift around a little it's still not going to touch. I also use Zip ties liberally.
With this method it’s basically unnecessary but yes I have used them. My preference is to use solid 1-2-3 blocks. You can get a pair for about $20 on Amazon: amzn.to/30BksQA
Thank you for taking the time out from your business to show us how to solder properly.
Very good video. Clean instructions and helpful tips. Thanks!
Great video, like the hint on preforming the wire!
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you so much for making it. Thumbs up.
Great video and explanation. Thank you!
I would love to see a detailed tutorial on wiring 3-rail o gauge track and switches, particularly how to wire ross switches for non-derailing. Thanks!
As soon as I wire one for non derailing I'll make a video on it. That said It will not be anytime soon as I don't have any big O gauge projects in the works. I'll put it on my white board though.
Very helpful vid! And just in time! Gonna be soldering feeder wires soon! I tried soldering feeders to the rail joiners, but I think its not as easy as soldering directly to the rail. Thanks! ☕🍻👍
Provided you use the right flux it’s just as easy to to solder to the rail joiners as the track or even buss. Oatly 95 is seriously magic compared to the garbage flux sold in hobby kits
Our three ovals has several crossovers between each oval, very neat wiring, do you insulate your solder joint? Black tape or ?
Yes and no. Typically I don’t use electrical tape unless I need to as it takes longer and is usually unnecessary.
I use chocolate bars to collect feeder wires in a small area. Then, I can run a single wire to the bus. Or, I use Wago connectors to collect several wires, running a single wire to the bus.
Chocolate bars?? Did you mean terminal blocks/strips?
@@MRBenchwork Yes--terminal strips, with a cross strap to tie the wires together. The Wagos are neat, too. They come in different configurations, to tie 2, 3, or 4 wires together, with one wire out. All solderless.
@@jamescraft672 I like Wagos but I'm still looking for that magical connector I can use on a buss without cutting it. Once I find it, I'll probably make a dedicated video on the topic.
My main concern is I don't want to cut the buss wire because I worry about adding resistance into the wiring system unnecessarily.
@@MRBenchwork Amen to that. Also, I avoid soldering beneath the table. For connecting the feeders to the bus wires, I use 3M Scotchlok 953K self-stripping T-taps and 71M-250-32-NL Scothlok quick disconnects. They are easy to install. I have also used the suitcase connectors, but I like these T-taps much better (much easier to install). You also can disconnect them if necessary for fault isolation. I use the WAGO connectors when it is necessary to have a branch in the bus wiring and (as described above) to minimize the numbers of feeder wires connected to bus wires.
Where you join a wire to the bus is it necessary to cover the join, or is it safe to leave exposed? Thanks and all the best Anthony.
Provided you space them out, there's really no need to wrap them in electrical tape. That said there's no harm in doing it either so it's really up to you. I like to leave 2 inches of separation (5cm) so even if things shift around a little it's still not going to touch. I also use Zip ties liberally.
Do you ever use heat sinks near the solder joint to prevent melting ties?
With this method it’s basically unnecessary but yes I have used them. My preference is to use solid 1-2-3 blocks. You can get a pair for about $20 on Amazon: amzn.to/30BksQA