Rotor Aldhu Crankset Teardown | SHIMANO drop in replacement
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2022
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The Rotor Aldhu and Vegast cranksets are modular units from Spanish Company Rotor. Previously, rotor cranksets were pretty crap but these ones are a huge improvement and the modular concept is quite good.
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Shimano Crank Reaming Teardown • Shimano REAMED for Eng...
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Haha love the subtle dura ace crank just falling apart in your hands like a top gear challenge car in the hands of the Stig. 🤣🤣🤣
Laughed my azz off to that one 😆
It is said after a fresh trim hambini once measured his hair for symmetrical tolerance and found it considerably better than(name omitted for legal reasons)a component manufacturer connected with the cycle industry.
Glad I'm still running 105 after this👍
Same color as his hair? I just call em as I see 'em. ABSOLUT Hacks. I wouldn't call those 'bike components'. Its very soon to be dumpster filling. Then landfill.
I find grifters and their victims amazing. Its great entertainment, not to mention, job security for me!
Absolute Black. There, I said it. Pure garbage claims by an equally garbage company.
still rocking the old 3d model after 8 freakin years and I bought it used. No regrets. No play, no worn axles nothing. just scuffs on the crank arms.
GCN tech show today, Oli mentioned his hairdresser was on vacation.... Hambini's hairdresser also on vacation....
Coincidence 🤔🤔🤔🤔
ALDHU + Hambini Racing BB is a great combination!
With Aldhu respect, it felt conclusion was a bit more rushed than on most previous vids. I'm taking away that it's
A, Overall very well made, definitely better built than those Dura Mess.
B, still has a couple drawbacks, nothing too major but one thing to be wary of when setting it up to avoid major lateral deviation of the chain.
C, it is possibly sensitive to a few more issues that are almost guaranteed not to occur on a trusty 105 set.
Oh and absolute shite, who still buys that ? Aren't they out of business already ?
I have two of this type of Rotor cranks
on 30mm axles good as gold .
Keep up the excellent work Hambini.
Hambini time!!! thanks for this, I have being using qrings for years and these cranks with the power meter are on the shopping list :)
Your Dad, AB got a affectionate cameo appearance, how nice of you to think of them..... Ahhhhhhhh ❤️
Can't wait to see you review more cranks!
I've used Rotor Aldhu cranks for about 10000 km now, when I got them the preload ring was MUCH tighter (borderline impossible) to adjust than shown in the video, but it still works and I dont get any play in the cranks. A benefit of the modular system is that you can mount a power meter or Rotors own adaptor to 110 4 bolt bcd. For me I've been using a Sigeyi powermeter on my Rotor cranks with no issues. This setup was pretty much the best I could find that would allow me to run a 24 mm axle with a crank based power meter, Dura-Ace pm is pretty bad and Rotors options seems a bit overpriced. Nearly all other power cranks either use 30 mm axles, apart from Quarq which uses DUB and still makes a few using GXP.
I'd buy this setup again
Oh and I forgot to add, Power2Max also uses the Aldhus for their 24mm axle versions
Take the preload collar off and add some grease on the threads, so it wont get stuck in the future.
@@carlmlr That's the one I've been riding for about 10K as well. The best setup I could find to use on different bikes, zero issues so far.
@@luukrutten1295 It worked fine before, but you comment inspired me to get it off and put grease on it. Now it's exactly the same as before but it can spin! :)
Similiar for me but running a Power2Max power meter, without any troubles. But I will check the preload after this vid now.
"we'll be doing a full review on that shortly"-gold.
Thanks to your similar video about galvanic corrosion. I was deterred to buying such and instead when replacing my 170mm crank for 165mm I went for Prowheel chariot forged cranks. The supreme vintage technology. Even if a horse rides those cranks it will sustain
I just got this same exact Aldu 155mm crankset I'm glad to hear Hambini didn't find anything wrong with it. Anything not Dura Ace is better these days.
I am subbed with the bell icon clicked and i have not got any of your latest videos in my sub box, it was only when i searched Hambini did i find your most recent videos. Something suspect with the algorithm. Keep up the good work and thanks for keeping these company's honest.
When the pen doesn't work for a week, he will finish the work so much quicker when he finally gets around to it.
I´ve heard there´s a vast array of clips coming during this week. Sure. Rgr
I have had good experiences with the Rotor system - I think it's a previous generation where the spider is attached via the older wider lobed interface. That one is used with a Power2Max power meter. The modularity came in handy when it was time to change the bike - was able to put my preferred 24 mm spindle and bigger bearings instead of using a BB30 system.
No issues with that - except as mentioned, the instructions are pretty bad. Several online videos and references help, including those from P2Max themselves.
1st I remember Peak Torque liked that one!! He praised the Rotor Aldhu!
Yep, but he also say that the aldhu will be extremely difficult to produce with consistent quality
@@einarhays title was misleading actually, seems to be quite good!
If you want to combine your own chainring combo you can get the spider and loose chainrings. These are the Direct Mount single piece ones.
Plus, they are same bolt pattern as shimano if I remember correctly. Seen many rotor chainrings on Shimano cranks
@@pauperismarti2226 Rotor offers different spiders , 5 arms bcd 110 en also 4 arms bcd 110.
Some manufacturers appear to be standardizing on the compact bolt ring pattern. Is the 110 mm pattern sufficient to support a 53 or in the case of a TT a 55 or 56 ring? Is there enough torsional stiffness to make a carbon fiber inner circle ring with steel teeth? I think we are reaching the end of carbon fiber utility. Do we start using far more expensive man-made materials with longer strand length and less likelihood of tearing to lighten the frames still more or do you suppose that racers are going to stop effecting sales so much. I am old and have returned to steel because of its ride. It climbs slower. So what? Not that I was never a climber despite the millions of feet I've climbed. Perhaps it's because I'm so old but I think that the epitome of cycling was the good steel frames of the mid to late 90's. While they weren't all that light (my Moser is 19 lbs.) they ride nearly perfect in my mind. (And butt) Not aero? I'm having a really good day holding 17 mph for 20 minutes. I can hardly detect aero wheels. While we can blame that on my age, how much difference is that from MOST 30 year old's?
99.9% of your speed on a bike is determined by your engine, not your bike frame or components. The bike industry has done an amazing marketing job using paid sponsorships of their products with pro level racers to convince masses of amateur gullible idiots that they need multi thousand dollar CF disposable cookie cutter bike frames, silly priced CF wheels, and amateur level nonsense like power meters and bar held computers to ride effectively or even race effectively at the amateur level. It’s all marketing BS being sold to amateur level posers, status symbol seekers, and clueless clown types.
I regularly encounter these clowns in the hills around Boulder and Golden, CO and I regularly drop the vast majority of them and see them getting easily dropped by many other riders. And when it regularly occurs their cute little poser power meters and Garmin computers, their cute little Enve or Zipp wheels, and their silly priced SWorks and Trek frames, etc.. don’t seem to make a hill of beans difference in their speed getting up a climb. But hey, when their ride is over they can always myopically go gaga over their “massive” 200 watt power output for 15 minutes. 😀😀
Cycling has become the new golf recreation. Loaded with poser clowns buying gear to imitate what sponsored pros use while laughably thinking all these gadgets and silly priced frames and components will make them magically faster.
@@ivanboesky1520 Feel better now?
There is a gcn video (both in spanish and english) where you can see the raw material they are manufactured from. It’s all wrought Aluminium, plates for the chainrings and billets for the cranks.
You can also go for a separate 2x and even have an inspider powermeter added, which is what I got and works perfect.
I’ve also noticed that the hard anodized layer on the rings is superior to that of shimano.
From a subjective p.o.v. I would agree rotor’s setup feels stiffer than the ultegra I had on before.
Overall a great product and well worth the money.
I'll second this subjective stiffer feeling. Grx to the aldhu that came with my power2max spider feels stiffer. Both were 175mm cranks.
Was looking at getting a new crankset for my backpacking / adventure bike. I’ll have a gander at these.
Would've loved to get more of a conclusion in the video but appreciate it nonetheless. Rotor aluminium cranks have been my absolute favourite for years. Every bike that came with other expensive cranks eventually (after a few rides) had them yanked out (SRAM X01, RaceFace Next2 Carbon, Easton EC90, Shimano Ultegra, etc.). The oldest one I have right now is a 3D30 that I've been using for about 6 years and it's still as stiff and tight as in the beginning. The one-piece 46/30 chainring has also held up very well and I didn't experience any major flex with it compared to a bolted system with a 110 BCD. I'm running the Aldhu and Kapic cranks on other bikes, and they've been a joy. What always impresses me are the spindles. My experience has been that they have much tighter tolerances than SRAM, Shimano, and RaceFace/Easton. Combined with a decent BB, these simply go and go.
I use a xCadey power crankset, it's pretty much the same as the rotor aldhu with modular parts, 24mm axle w/ tapered splines but with 4 holes drilled inside the crankarms, the power spider/chainrings are bolted onto the crank arm, and it's much cheaper than the rotor aldhu. Not 100% sure what the axle is made of though, I suspect alloy (because of the price) but some claim it's titanium.
HELLO HAMBINI! 🔥👍💪
Last time I checked there are not just a few vendors "operating on the 24mm" crankset. Prowheel, Goldix, ZTTO, and a few others. Pick and choose.
running 105 on one bike, Rotor Aldhu on the gravel one, no problems whatsoever. Also using Rotor means you can install a 3rd party crank based power meter. As you can see even Hambini could find very few issues with this crankset.
Rotor is seasoned in using cnc router finishing as part of the artwork on chainrings and cranks, same for Hope.
sram later did some referencing through printing and decal.
Bought this one to replace the failed 9000 one 😂 . Thanks for the video.❤
My gosh lol.... Hambini praising a enginurd.... Wonders will never cease lol
I have been using these but with an. INspider power meter. No issues but Rotor have brought out carbon Aldhu cranks but only for the 30 not the 24's.
This episode was very anticipated!!!!
Great, I own 3D 24 and 30 with the old 5 bolts spider so I get both advantages crank arm drilling and 5 bolts system to diminish the chainring flex???
Have to say i installed some Aldhus and the finish and machined quality seems outstanding.
Love that they passed your vibe check, made in my hometown Madrid suburbs
Got these cranksets for a while, the only two things I don't like is: a) The spindle seems a little wider than Shimano ones, makes it harder to install and remove. b) The preload ring is much harder to ues compared to the Shimano one.
Otherwise, pretty awesome. Cheap Sigeyi powermeter, tons of options for crank arm length, different levels between budget and weight for crankarms (had both aldhu and vegast)
I am considering buying a new crankset and vegast or aldhu are the two options. For me with a cat 2 performance in 5-20-60 min power I do not see the price difference justified between the two, so will happily settle for vegast, but I'd like to ask your opinion. Do you experience any benefit from the aldhu over the vegast? I have previous experience with 5800 and 6800 Shimano and Force 22 Sram and personally, I did not feel huge differences between them. Thank you!
I love the setup in combination with the ngpower2max spider based powermeter. I just notice on the driveside the shimano rings attached on the powerdisk are e few mm more to the outside , so i needed to adjust the front derailler also to his limit outside.
"This is the Dura Ace.." CLANK!!! Great!!! Rgr
I appreciate your job. I hope your critical look will led a bike manufacturers to pay more attention to quality for their overpriced products.
Three bikes now with Rotor Cranks (Record or Super Record on the road bikes). I have seen many carbon MTN cranks fail, many Shimano cranks fail....never seen a dead Rotor Crank. I am also a fan boy of the QRings....but, I digress.
the industry is just taking the piss now, would never have seen a crank arm fall apart like that 30 years ago
this product was clearly engineered for fiscal brevity
On the contrary, Lightness is what the apes wanted, and that's what they got in return for greater cost and reduced reliability.
30 years ago you'd get a Dura Ace crank arm splitting in two in the perpedicular dimension. Now that's what you call the bisection of progress.
So, I felt that this one lacked a conclusion. The title calls it a "krapset" but no real deficiencies are highlighted. If at the end you could sum up and say that it's pretty good, maybe that would be more clear. (basically that is the conclusion that I got from the video)
Now I have an aldhu on my bike, partially to get 165 cranks. I have a power2max power meter and it's set up for Shimano chain rings. I can fit various combinations from 34-50 up. So the idea that users are limited in their chain ring choice is incorrect, at least in my case.
I could have got it with 5 bolt Praxis chain rings as well, and I'm guessing other options are available.
Otherwise, a decent breakdown of the product. Too bad about the title, because it seems to be a pretty good product.
agree. got the p2m shimano set up on 170mm and has been great
Clickbaity title
I have had 3 rotor crank arm failures same way cracking at top of arm. Non drive side , rotor said they never had that issue and I sent one back and they kept it with out sending me new one next 2 same prob and they blaming it on me / bike shop install
My NDS crank 165mm Vegast 24 failed
After ~7 rides and broken threads. I've users a 175 for several months without issues so they indicates that Rotor has a huge variation in quality and accuracy. Not something you want on your cranks.
Still DA the biggest sponsor no matter what. Nothing is gonna changed at least for another year.
Hambini you can buy chainrings individually to your taste, just have to buy the spider to allow different chainring combinations.
Only possible with the 5-bolt version though, the 4-bolt only takes their own chainrings.
@@yonglingng5640 I have it with a Power2max power meter in 4 bolt and it can take various Shimano chain rings.
@@GregRenwick Yes, your 4-bolt holes aren't pocketed, so you're all good.
I've been running the cheaper version of these cranks (Veghast) on a steel 24mm axle through a Hambini Racing PF30 BB for nearly 2 years. I'm using the 46/30 direct mount chainrings. No problems whatsoever. Axles and chainrings are exactly the same as those shown in this video.
The biggest tool in the tool shed 😃
I had to revert from a crappy GPX Quarq PM to a std 24mm crankset and Rotor was on the wishlist. I however gave up on Rotors solely due to the possibility of having issues at this weird joint, a tapered joint for the crankarm over and fixing a splined joint for the chainrings. The tolerances need to be VERY good there to avoid any play on the chainrings. I didn't bet on it.
Rotor crakarms are drilled, so yes it's one piece but it's also hollow (three long holes through the whole crak arm, you can see where they put material to close the holes...
I jusst reopalced my brand new Easton crankset, (which was causing some annoying rubbing) with Rotor VEGAST and it is absolutely perfect, straight and stiff. It goes well with my top notch TIME 2023 frame : ) Highly recommended.
Pretty sure they're machined on the inside with longitudinal drilling like their old 3D+ crank.
The only preload collars I've seen broken have been aluminum ones. On the plastic ones, the screw head sometimes rounds out, and it's difficult to find a proper replacement.
Rotor chainrings have had very good shifting in recent times.
When you do the absolute review, please try to include the mountain bike size. They are really popular in that sphere, especially 1x.
Praise indeed. When my bombproof Claris fails me, I'll know where to look.
Claris is excellent for everyday use. Components are cheaper to replace when they wear out.
hi hambini, maybe a stupid question - but why is the non-drive side thread of the rotor axle closing counter-clockwise? means each pedal stroke potentially loosens? had loose threads twice over the last months. design failure? what speaks against clockwise thread on the non-drive side?
I love Rotor cranks. I have 3 sets and can move them around from road, gravel, and mtb, just by changing the axle. And they are stiff AF. A very important attribute when you only ride Singlespeed.
I just upgrades my Rotor cranks from the aluminium arms you featured to the new carbon arms, and its a big improvement in stiffness. Have to see how long they last but they seem pretty good so far
Update, carbon arms holding up perfectly, so far
Carbon fiber has a finite life, most definitely shorter than quality solid metal cranks. All things carbon fiber have limited safe usable life. This is as it is. Believing differently will ultimately result in disappointment.
I got 1 and a half years and the bonded aluminium insert on the nds at the bb end unbonded from the carbon. Keep an eye on that
it would be awesome if you test the actual stiffness of the aldhu and dura crap crankset + set it in relation to the weight of both. cheers
New test out now on Fair Wheel Bikes
Great review! As someone who's had two 6800 cranksets fail in the fashion you described, I've looked at the rotor crankset but to me, it's hard to spend that kind of money when you compare it to a 105. Sure, a 105 might fail after several years but you can buy quite a few 105's for the price of a single rotor crank. For the cost of getting new chainrings on a rotor, you can get an entirely new 105 crank.
Um. No? I'm not sure where you are getting your prices from but my full Rotor Vegast setup was €200.
@@driventomadness117 At the rotor America site, a Vegast crank with two rings and and the axle is $500. That's what you'd get with a new 105 crank but the 105 crank is only $166. Am I looking at this wrong? To me, it looks like $200 gets you the cranks without anything else.
Edit: Checked the international site and the Vegast with chainrings and axle is €400. I'm guessing you didn't need chainrings but the 105 comes with new chainrings so to keep the comparison apples to apples, you should include new chainrings, right?
105 might fail after a few years? Not sure about latest Di2 105 12sp crank but my 10sp 105 seems damn near bulletproof. I'd expect it to survive the apocalypse. Right along with cockroaches and piston wrist pins.
@@mike_f there's a weakness with the way the Shimano cranks are manufactured where the two halves that are bonded together can separate. I've had two Ultegra cranks fail in that fashion and I assume the 105 could be susceptible to the same issue. Hambini talks about that issue in the video and it's one reason look at rotor cranks.
@@shoerhino I'm aware of Ultegra and DA. But 105 was always different construction. 10sp was definitely not 2 halves. Not sure about 11sp but think it was not. So those, to my knowledge are bulletproof. But 105 12sp may be the 2 halves construction which would be a drag IMO.
One could be forgiven in thinking that some proper thoughtful, considered engineering has gone into this (for once) ;-)
My rotor left crank leg unscrews itsself while riding LOL. Glad i got rid of this shit and replaced it with a grx 810
Same here. It not only unscrewed, it failed. Looks like a pattern with the NDS cranks. Which crank length? Looks like the 175mm has more meat on the treads than the shorter ones.
I prefer the Shimano Pre Load. I have owned 3 Rotor cranksets and I have never been able to set them as freely as the Shimano.
I wonder why more manufacturers don't use the same system. I think FSA does as well, but perhaps they pay a licensing fee. There are Chinese mfgs which do but they don't care about licensing.
@@szurketaltos2693 Hambini mentions this in the video: the Shimano Hollowtech II preload system is patented.
I've had FSA cranks before and mine used a wavy washer for preload. The Shimano preload system doesn't work with a self-extracting crank bolt like what FSA tends to use, since it takes up the space that the Shimano preload bolt would otherwise occupy.
@@TypeVertigo hm, I remember having an older FSA crank with pinch bolts like the Shimano style, could be misremembering, and I definitely have an IXF crank that does but again, mainland China and patents.
@@TypeVertigo ah, I searched eBay and found some same model FSA gossamer cranks that use the pinch bolt system. So could be that Shimano threatened them with a lawsuit and they stopped using that design.
LBS which had a load of borked DA & Ultegra cranksets has been pushing customers towards Rotor and SRAM AXS GXP or DUB for nearly 2 years. In the Spring they stopped pushing Rotor due to high axle failure rate - oddly higher with steel 24mm than their alu.
I had a Rotor 3D back in 2015 and according to people I trust, that was the cause of the ubiquitous creaking in Cervélos from that era, including mine. After several potential solutions failed, I threw the Rotor away, put an Ultegra on and had ZERO issues… until it cracked hahahah… damn it…
Is there a high axle failure rate with Rotor???
Awesome we are returning back to the originals, one piece double rings, square bottom shaft type arrangement, we moved away from doubled set chain rings in order to get different arrangements so this is a no go for many custom bikes.
The bottom shaft ends are not square and a variety of chain rings are available. Mine are vanilla Shimano
@@GregRenwick It was a sarcastic joke as in we are coming full circle. Just waiting for the day those GCN fools push for Square BB claiming superior drag and spinning 😂
@@danfuerthgillis4483 ok. I don't watch those guys. It's a good product and was reasonably priced. The chain rings are individual pieces bolted on just like Shimano chain rings. (cuz they are Shimano chain rings)
@@GregRenwick Yep the only issue with these rings is they are one piece, so that means no 52-40 combo ( don’t know if they make it) or 52/39 for example. I am on a 52/40 setup and really like it a lot in the flats as I don’t have any mountains here for 300 km, the 40t ring is really nice in heavier winds as it allows for faster speed without increased cadence.
@@danfuerthgillis4483 Right, so you buy the spider that mounts individual chain rings and then there is no problem. The review implies that the one piece chain rings (2 rings in one piece) is the only choice but that is incorrect. I know this because I have this setup on my bike. And have had 2 different combinations of chain rings.
I was looking at one of those to replace a SRAM force 1x (46mm chainline) but only the 30mm axle would work. Ended up with a quarq dub and a wolftooth ring....that now creaks like a b4stard :(
I have Magene power meter cranks that are heavily inspired by Rotor cranks. They're pretty good, only annoying thing about them is that those holes inside are open right up to the end and they whistle in the wind 😀 Does Rotor have the same issue?
You always have so beautiful hair! Wirklich schöne Haare!
Did hambini have a FSA crank set video uploaded at some point or did I make up a whole episode of my favorite show in my sleep??
Hello Mr. Hambini!
Thx, for the great content - as usual!
One question: Do you recommend greasing the tapered parts of the spindle of the ROTOR Cranks, where the crankarms are attached to?
Dankeschön!
yes
They must be greased, otherwise your crankarms will seize on them.
I'm curious as to how the Trinity Drilling System actually goes about drilling the holes while remaining a single piece - do they drill through from the axle end or the pedal end. Are there any holes that get filled in the ends, and could those be weak points?
On the older 3D cranks there are two plugged holes at the pedal end. Maybe the last hole is at the axle side.
Any chance we will get a review of praxisworks (carbon) cranks?
I have a Rotor 3D24 that i use on a single speed. It is beautifully made.
Same. One of my biggest regrets was selling it...
You can buy a spider so you can then put your own chainrings on as well
For Rotor's spiders, only the 5-bolt version can take any chainring you like, the 4-bolt version takes only theirs.
I would say Hambini do a bit more research of the Rotor cranks and the interchangeability you did miss a few things out - but as usual a great review and technical information - these are far much better than the Shimano......
so far im on my 4th set of Rotor cranks to the collection of my bikes - the 2inpower cranks are great with the ability to change out the spiders - 1 pair of the 3d - 24mm cranks on a winter bike - 1 pair of RRaptor on a jump bike and some Kaptic Carbon on my Yeti , these weight for weight are very close to the THM but are half the price...so far no failures over the 8 years - only problem is the alloy 30mm axle that does wear but this was on my Rraptor cranks with some bad PF4130 BB's - I have changed this over to the RaceFace Clinch 89/92 BB and so far so good on my road bike and my Yeti.
Love your videos. Question: Using a 3DF rotor crankset with BBRight Ultimate BB. Want to change to short arms. Does anybody know if the Aldhu arms interchange with the older 3DF arms (splines on gear-set, etc)?
l got an alugear chainring on my tt bike. 1x setup 54 teeth since l couldn't find any other good solutions to run 105 FC-R7000 1x. it flexes a bit yes and l had to file away a bit the the breakshoe bolt but on the tt bike its ok
I love my rotor 3d 2inpower chainset. Solid as a rock, had it on 2 bikes now and still great. You seemed to like it too when you had it when fitting my bb on my bike. I wouldn’t pick anything but rotor tbh now
LOL
...so what /were/ the measured stiffness values for the rotor Vs shimano?
Would be nice to hear your opinion about the sram force/red 22 cranks and the new axs cranks
He's already given it - DUB, by design, has high bearing wear.
Time to launch the Hambini crankset. One piece Niobium superalloy construction for the most demanding cyclist.
Great video! I’ve been using the Aldhu cranks 170 and 165 with an InSpider PM (24mm axle) and have run many different setups 2x and 1x Q Ring and ULTEGRA rings with great satisfaction. You just helped me accommodate their latest Aldhu Carbon arms since they only offer that with use of a 30mm axle (annoying? why? is it a structural decision?) - anyway saves 100gr of rotational weight which is appealing, but curious if there are any drawbacks and should I just go back to the alloy arms. It’s true that your 24mm delring (sp?) BB caps appear to better support/protect the axle. Again great video, thank you.
Great video! How does SRAM chainrings and cranks compare to Shimano?
See Hambini's back catalog. SRAM cranks suffer from either the GXP design, which leads to higher bearing wear; or DUB, which leads to higher bearing wear.
Which good quality crankset would you recommend ? By the whay I bought some absolute black chainring, didn't expect to be bad designed given the price
I was expecting a right reaming here but he gave them compliments instead. I own the rotor 2inpower meter crankset and I don’t even know they are on the bike which is a good thing. I may invest more into rotor cranks going forward.
15:05; “the Shimano equivalent is….” Scrap by the looks of it 😂
How would you rate the Rotor cranksets that Canyon mounts instead of the original GRX ones?
I have 10000km + on the Aldhu carbon paired to a 110bcd 4 bolt sigeyi power meter. Zero Issues.
Okay, tell us what is the wattage you are registering?
@@Newtube_Channel I peak @ 1265w and my ftp is 317w for a modest 4.54wkg ;)… one thing i could say is bad about rotor is their chainring bolts , absolute crap.
@@maxdtremblay Yes I believe you because I can confirm your experience. To be more precise the entire chainring interface itself lets the entire crank down. I don't believe it's prudent having a totally modular system like this where issues like stiffness and reliability matter. I also don't want to be that fixated about the crank.
@@Newtube_Channel i bought it cuz it looks hella cool haha seems like nothing escape a hambini reaming and every single component is shite… when are we gonna get a full hambini groupset ? Haha
@Hambini Anyway you can also cover SRAM's Red / Force AXS one piece crank? Is it superior to ROTOR and Shimano, or worse?
would be nice to see some more "niche" crank tested like: ee wing, garbaruk, sturdy cycles, white industies, ingrid, 5dev
Hi Hambini: Rotor Aldhu carbon cranks are good quality too? Worth the money compared with Aldhu aluminium model? Thanks a lot!!
I’m testing them now. Feel/look cool but haven’t gotten any tangible comparative data yet. Will share when I do.
Is it known if the Shimano Parts of the Higher end Groupsets like XTR and DuraAce still manufactured in Japan?
Even if they're still made in Japan, even the monkey falls off from the tree.
In my opinion, Shimano has gone too far in pursuit of ever lighter groupset. Unless their Hollowtech is built like airframe spar with rivets and corrosion prevention inside, the thinner material of the crank is least likely to withstand stresses and corrosion in a long term.
have you tried the cane creek ee wings cranks?
agreed on the crap SRAM dub preload ring, my xo crank preloader didn't like being loosened due to dirt ingress and then mullered the threads. the cane creek replacement is a much nicer setup.
are you reviewing the hyper 2023s? when?
I've got a set of magene one piece chainrings here that are a one piece alloy.
We are going back to 24 mm steal cranks and threaded bottom brackets, hilarious in my opinion. Will rim brakes come back?
Let's hope so!
Rim brakes were around for 50-60 years. But then watch out here came discs. It was the end of the world and we had to decide which camp we were going to be in. So in the past 10 years everyone woke up and decided that discs were needed. After decades of rim braking it was an epiphany. In the last 5 years alone the weather has taken a turn for the worst, vast swaths of marketing departments have stepped in, product designers have been bolstered, all in order to deliver disc braking systems for consumers to consume.
I urge you try stopping your bike using the shoe on your foot. It will most certainly be another ephiphany moment (for you).
Yea but rim brakes are good
I wrench in a shop. Road disc brakes are such incredible job security that I've spent entire work days working on nothing but 'amazing' disc brakes. Theyre supposed to last longer yet this stuff just flies off the shelves! We don't replace many rim brake pads for some odd reason! There has been a time where we limited sales to 4 sets of brake pads due to supply chain issues. Many are $30 plus per pair!
Here in Wackofornia we've been in a drought for a couple years now!
It probably helps my bottom line that my shop is at the bottom of a 3000 foot mountain, yet many roadies are afraid to use that front freakin brake! I find this fascinating!
@@rollinrat4850 spot on
I ordered a ROTOR carbon crankset. It has not arrived yet. I will keep you posted!
Mine just arrived
@@renaissancefam5465 How long did you wait to get it?
Looked promising but obviously not. Is 105 the kind of groupsets?
Any thoughts on old alu stronglight and campag record 180mm (same cracks Indurain used) with taper axle fit?
What's the conclusion on these?
w hollowtech, isnt the outer shell really just a cosmetic shell? does it really bear any load??
The pedal thread is joint to the outer shell so yeah it is load bearing
The plastic cap preloads the BB bearings and with the crankarm pinch bolts torqued down, it'll stay put.
Dura an ace at falling apart
new 12s Ultegra is hollow forged, like 105, 12s dura ace is mixed. Left crank is hollow forged, right is hollow bonded.... let's see how that goes.
Is it 105 R7000 crank that's hollow forged, or the new 105 that's hollow forged?
@@thedownunderverse all hollowtech 105s are hollowforged.
@@LainOTN I’m not sure that’s right. I thought so too but then I saw a video in which bond lines can clearly be seen on R7000 cranks… though the joins are in a slightly different spot
Could you provide a source where it says that the new 12s Ultegra is hollow forged instead of bonded? Thank you!
@@takimoto8421 I have it, will try to upload some photos.
How bad did that Dura ace crank look? looks like its made out of polished shit.
your bb is out of stock for 386evo for time bike . really need it
Classic.
I believe if the Shimano crank is stiff enough for the pros it is stiff enough for me and anyone else.The Chinese brand ZRace makes a crank similar to the Rotor (but rings are separate pieces) but has triple hollow drilled areas like the Rotor for less than $100. Reasonably high too. Works great on my indoor bike.
Pros ride what they are given. Trust me they would have different components, wheels, hubs, and crankset if they didnt have shimano as sponsor
And most things are dispossable, they just put new things every time they have issues. Worst case scenario is they use it for a season. Amateurs rely on longevity and quality products
Stiffness is great for Shimano until they fall apart
@@svencobaya82 eh, maybe wheels. As a SRAM die hard, Shimano cranks certainly shift better. Their hubs are also very good but their rims aren't very fast. As for shifter choice, that's all personal preference and many people choose Shimano anyway even though I wouldn't
Pros mostly not able to choose components what they like.. they ride stuffs which are came from sponsors..