Thanks for your video, I managed to repair my water heater, as you shown the end's of the burner unit had corroded through, I used JB marine weld epoxy to repair the rotten end's and the unit is working perfectly, again thanks for your video
Hope this helps anyone! The way I found this thing operates. The gas is released into that mild steel pipe. I discovered (that pipe has no holes) just one big hole at the very end on the opposite side of the pipe Gas is released on the other side into the surrounding box where the mesh and tiny holes are to make the flames! I found the problem on mine....and why the heater switches off after a few seconds. (Loss of gas pressure) Flame is weak Then it shuts off and (heater fault light comes on) very frustrating. Here is the fix. At the opposite side of pipe where gas comes goes into box. There was a hole...the size you would get a lolly pop stick in through (caused by rust) big enough to lose gas pressure tho. I poked the rust out removed the whole square end and welded a new fresh square piece in sealing the box up. Im sure epoxy resin mix would work if you dont have a welder. (Once you seal it all up) Result for me: (No loss of gas pressure) (Flames are good) Put back together and it works perfect now on gas (no faults) God bless happy camping.
Hi Dave, I think at 15:42 you should of said ...." Before you install, make sure the O ring is renewed to make sure you have a good gas seal. ".......Just a thought. Nice video though.
HI Dave i have one of these and it's leaking out of the nut between the heat exchanger in the front, is this repairable, and is this part of the aluminum shaft you were speaking about. thanks
Sorry but I don't understand where your leak is, you say "out of the nut between the heat exchanger" Between the heat exchanger and what? Can you add a photo of the offending part?
Hello Dave, you did god video here. I have the same Carver Cascade. But have a problem. When I turn it on burns for about 5 seconds and stops. And the same thing every time. 5 seconds and stops. Do you have any ideas for events happening? thanks
Hi, the most likely cause would be a thermocouple failure but to be honest parts are almost impossible to source now. You would probably need to replace the whole electronics board anyway. Try searching Ebay for a second hand unit, you might just get lucky.
Is there a fuse inside the module the black box bit which u opened up on this video as we have a gas and electric cascade water heater works fine on electric but won’t ignite on gas told there should be w fuse located in the black box unit hitch joints on to the burner unit
Hello Dave, very interesting, thanks. I have just bought a 20 year old caravan. You said your heater was 30 years old, is there much difference to my 20 year old [being a bit newer] Does the carver heater get it's water from the aquaroll and is there a isolator tap somewhere that feeds the carver and the taps? been looking on you tube for tips on starting and running the carver. New to caravaning, hope you can advise. Thanks again, Brian
Your boiler will be pretty much exactly the same as this if it's a carver cascade 2. Unless you have an inboard tank the aquaroll is the only place the boiler can get water from. Whether or not there's any isolator taps is impossible to say without seeing the van as anything could have been added or altered over the last twenty years.
Dave, Thanks for reply, will check the isolator situation. i thought you mentioned the heater was for a friend/client? Will you be doing a vid on fitting, firing up, running and switch off? Thanks, Brian
@@brianmarsh4498 yes the boiler was for a friend who is fitting it in a self converted camper so I'm afraid I won't be doing any follow up videos on it. My advice would be to get the gas appliances in your caravan checked professionally and ask the technician to demonstrate how to operate them .
Dave, I have no isolator switch in the van. My heater is a Cascade 2 GE rapid water heater. So it looks like this particular heater runs on both gas or 240v? Is the heater you worked on run on gas or 240v as well? So you only talked about the gas side of the heater, is that correct? thanks, Brian
Could be almost anything but assuming it is an old Carver unit then the most likely candidate in my experience will be the control switch PCB has failed, either that or the electronics board in the boiler itself has died.
@@davesshed1488 I got a controller switch for £50 the guy said he had tested it on the bench , I have just removed the gas box from under the heater which is till in the van and it all looks good except for a bit of crap inside the gas flame 🔥 which I’m going to clean out mine only as one ignition coupling would that be right , the fuse inside the box looks fine the paper seal was still readable and clean I can not make out the date it was tested only it was April but can not see the year as the ink is warn , there is power going to the switch but no lights are coming on
@@ivecamperbuild_thomas4084 test the fuse with a meter, I've had them before where they looked ok but we're in fact open circuit. Check the burner unit carefully, they rust internally and at the ends, not always visible till you remove it.
I removed the burner there was a little surface rust and looked like new the board looked fine the fuse was tested and works under the test I have a feeling I was sold a bad control switch the 12 volt go’s the the little green block that the positive and negative wires are screwed in but no power getting to the two fuse even with new fuses in . It’s cost me quite a bit bit so I think I need to look at another method of heating the water and make the vent into a. Cupboard
@@davesshed1488 I removed the burner there was a little bit of rust inside I checked it with a plowlamp with just the gas turned on and all the jets seem clear it looks very clean . The fuses are working there is 12 volt power getting to the two small screws but none of the lights are coming on even when the switch is wired directly to a fully charged batter the printed circuit at the back of the switch looks fine but I’m thinking I must of been sold a bad switch unless there is something that I am doing wrong
Thanks for your video, I managed to repair my water heater, as you shown the end's of the burner unit had corroded through, I used JB marine weld epoxy to repair the rotten end's and the unit is working perfectly, again thanks for your video
Very clear to understand video.
Thank you Dave
Useful to see how it comes apart, thank you, but I would think that burner won't last long and needs replacing given the effort involved.
Hope this helps anyone!
The way I found this thing operates. The gas is released into that mild steel pipe.
I discovered (that pipe has no holes) just one big hole at the very end on the opposite side of the pipe
Gas is released on the other side into the surrounding box where the mesh and tiny holes are to make the flames!
I found the problem on mine....and why the heater switches off after a few seconds.
(Loss of gas pressure)
Flame is weak
Then it shuts off and (heater fault light comes on) very frustrating.
Here is the fix.
At the opposite side of pipe where gas comes goes into box.
There was a hole...the size you would get a lolly pop stick in through (caused by rust) big enough to lose gas pressure tho.
I poked the rust out removed the whole square end and welded a new fresh square piece in sealing the box up. Im sure epoxy resin mix would work if you dont have a welder. (Once you seal it all up)
Result for me:
(No loss of gas pressure)
(Flames are good)
Put back together and it works perfect now on gas (no faults)
God bless happy camping.
Thanks for the education
Hi Dave, I think at 15:42 you should of said ...." Before you install, make sure the O ring is renewed to make sure you have a good gas seal. ".......Just a thought. Nice video though.
HI Dave i have one of these and it's leaking out of the nut between the heat exchanger in the front, is this repairable, and is this part of the aluminum shaft you were speaking about. thanks
Sorry but I don't understand where your leak is, you say "out of the nut between the heat exchanger" Between the heat exchanger and what? Can you add a photo of the offending part?
@@davesshed1488 sorry yes I will send an image.. Many thanks
Hello Dave,
you did god video here.
I have the same Carver Cascade. But have a problem.
When I turn it on burns for about 5 seconds and stops.
And the same thing every time. 5 seconds and stops.
Do you have any ideas for events happening?
thanks
Hi, the most likely cause would be a thermocouple failure but to be honest parts are almost impossible to source now. You would probably need to replace the whole electronics board anyway. Try searching Ebay for a second hand unit, you might just get lucky.
Thank you, Dave.
hi did you film removing the drum/cylinder thanks
Hi, no there was no need to remove the cylinder. This was simply a check of the gas system.
Is this similar to henry style heaters?
Yes, the Henry was a direct copy of this boiler.
Is there a fuse inside the module the black box bit which u opened up on this video as we have a gas and electric cascade water heater works fine on electric but won’t ignite on gas told there should be w fuse located in the black box unit hitch joints on to the burner unit
To be honest with you I simply can't remember if there is or not. When you try it on gas does it do anything at all or not?
There is a flap on them with a reset button under it. Press that and it should run on 240v.
Hi dave do you do repair on the carver,mine doesn't seem to work be good to be able to have it checked over thanks
Not any more, difficult to get parts now.
Hello Dave, very interesting, thanks. I have just bought a 20 year old caravan. You said your heater was 30 years old, is there much difference to my 20 year old [being a bit newer] Does the carver heater get it's water from the aquaroll and is there a isolator tap somewhere that feeds the carver and the taps? been looking on you tube for tips on starting and running the carver. New to caravaning, hope you can advise. Thanks again, Brian
Your boiler will be pretty much exactly the same as this if it's a carver cascade 2. Unless you have an inboard tank the aquaroll is the only place the boiler can get water from. Whether or not there's any isolator taps is impossible to say without seeing the van as anything could have been added or altered over the last twenty years.
Dave, Thanks for reply, will check the isolator situation. i thought you mentioned the heater was for a friend/client? Will you be doing a vid on fitting, firing up, running and switch off? Thanks, Brian
@@brianmarsh4498 yes the boiler was for a friend who is fitting it in a self converted camper so I'm afraid I won't be doing any follow up videos on it. My advice would be to get the gas appliances in your caravan checked professionally and ask the technician to demonstrate how to operate them .
Dave, I have no isolator switch in the van. My heater is a Cascade 2 GE rapid water heater. So it looks like this particular heater runs on both gas or 240v? Is the heater you worked on run on gas or 240v as well? So you only talked about the gas side of the heater, is that correct? thanks, Brian
@@brianmarsh4498 the heater in my video is a gas only unit. My advice still stands, get all the appliances checked by a professional.
I really need some help with my carver water heater-
What help do you need exactly?
What do you think it would be my control switch with the three lights on dose not light up but there is power getting to it .
Could be almost anything but assuming it is an old Carver unit then the most likely candidate in my experience will be the control switch PCB has failed, either that or the electronics board in the boiler itself has died.
@@davesshed1488 I got a controller switch for £50 the guy said he had tested it on the bench , I have just removed the gas box from under the heater which is till in the van and it all looks good except for a bit of crap inside the gas flame 🔥 which I’m going to clean out mine only as one ignition coupling would that be right , the fuse inside the box looks fine the paper seal was still readable and clean I can not make out the date it was tested only it was April but can not see the year as the ink is warn , there is power going to the switch but no lights are coming on
@@ivecamperbuild_thomas4084 test the fuse with a meter, I've had them before where they looked ok but we're in fact open circuit. Check the burner unit carefully, they rust internally and at the ends, not always visible till you remove it.
I removed the burner there was a little surface rust and looked like new the board looked fine the fuse was tested and works under the test I have a feeling I was sold a bad control switch the 12 volt go’s the the little green block that the positive and negative wires are screwed in but no power getting to the two fuse even with new fuses in . It’s cost me quite a bit bit so I think I need to look at another method of heating the water and make the vent into a. Cupboard
@@davesshed1488 I removed the burner there was a little bit of rust inside I checked it with a plowlamp with just the gas turned on and all the jets seem clear it looks very clean . The fuses are working there is 12 volt power getting to the two small screws but none of the lights are coming on even when the switch is wired directly to a fully charged batter the printed circuit at the back of the switch looks fine but I’m thinking I must of been sold a bad switch unless there is something that I am doing wrong