This video is solid, straight to the point, no bullshitting around no unnecessary information or anything to waste time. Got me to the point where I’m ready to pull. just waiting on my cherry picker and engine stand to get here.
Thanks. I try to keep the videos short as possible without leaving any steps out. I'm waiting on the forged crankshaft and pistons to get here and it will be Dec before my connecting rods show up. Hopefully be making rebuild videos around that time.
Been looking for a solid video on this for 2 weeks and finally I found one who explained and more thank you I appreciate you I drive a 02 gt convertible and the engine sized so me and my pop are replacing it thank you Agian for all the help !!!
Appreciate you again. I watched this probably over 10 times. You have the best video on removing this engine! All I got left is transmission mounts and engine mounts and she out! 💯💯
Man thanks so much for this video you just gave me a lot of motivation. I have a 2001 gt I got for free and I just bought the engine for 600 I’m about to drop it in this weekend!
You're welcome brother! I can't wait to get back to working on the mustang. Started building a shop and it has drove me in the ground with all the work. Hope to have it done by this weekend. The electrical is whats taking me so long. Bending 10-2 wire is like bending steel.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 you have a new subscriber here thanks for replying I wish you good luck. believe me when I say this year started of ruff but I see the light and everything is coming together . Best of luck
Good job .you make it look so easy .I did mine 2 times last year .doing little upgrades .now I have to do it again for replacement. You made a good video
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 yea make sure you check oil on a regular basis. I got lazy and seized my 2v by not checking my oil level .I had a gallon of oil in the trunk because 263k on the original burned a lill bit of oil .then for 2 weeks I would get in and start driving .and say to myself "you need check the oil when you get there ." Well at 3:15am I went for that engines final drive .now I own 2 4v 4.6 engines to replace my 263k mile original 2v it's kind of sad that engine was so reliable. How about you do the cobra R swap with a lincoln aviator 5.4 and make a video .then you can use coyote intake manifold. It will give you content for Y.T. and help out the people like me who want to .I have searched and there's not a lot of good videos of the process just before and after videos .but not the actual process
I thought I recognized your youtube name. Nice mach 1! I'm getting the same wheels you have unless I change my mind before I'm ready buy them. I've hit the big red button for your build as well.
As an avid builder of mod motors I gotta say this video was a good effort. You did a lot of good things but you also did a lot of unnecessary things that could’ve stayed on the motor and streamlined the entire process. The engine harness stays on the motor and you disconnect it from the main harness on the passenger side engine bay.
I always disconnect the harnesses from the engine before I pull one if I plan on rebuilding it. Either way the harnesses has to come off. Thanks for watching and God bless.
I am watching this the day before attempting to pull the engine out of my 02 GT in my shop that I work at, I am an advisor NOT a mechanic, I’ll keep y’all updatd
Thank you for actually showing where the motor mounts were i looked at many videos and all of them just say to remove the bolts but dont actually show the location to reach it or what it even looks like, i have an 03 gt with no trans on it so i can basically see everything down there hoping removal is way easier without dealing with the trans or exhaust holding it to the back
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 any advice on the fuse box? With my luck i pretty much destroyed the engine compartment fuse box trying to remove the fusible link from the post to remove the wiring harness and i hope i dont have to cut anything to make and splice it later if not needed
If I was you I would replace the fuse box with a new one or a good used and take pics where everything plugs in at on the old one so you don't lose track of where the harnesses go. If you have to do any splices make sure you use the same gauge wire and solder all connections and cover with heat shrink wrap.
I know I'm a little late to the party but the wire harness can come out with the engine, disconnect the 3 in the passenger corner, off the fuse box and disconnect the grounds and the whole thing comes out with the engine
I just did one of these that was supercharged, that starter was a pita!!! When I put it back together I left the motor mount and header off on the pass side supported by my cherry picker until I got the starter in. I did not say one cuss word putting the started back in!!!
Great video I didn’t have to mess with trans besides bolts around housing ofcourse why did you remove everything else if you left trans under car? Just wondering
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 your pretty much disassembled the whole car and recorded while doing so, not skipping anything also mentioning the size of bolts. And I thought mustangs are what you did based upon how effortless you did it but looking at your channel you got it for free and went at it! That's mind blowing 🤯
On the starter bolts side I have longtube headers in the way. Is there anyway of getting those bolts off without removing headers or k member 3 for started and two for transmission bolts?
I have a question, do you need a transmission jack to complete this job, or can you just unbolt the bell housing from the motor and leave the trans hanging on the transmission mounts while the motor gets pulled?
If your car is a automatic you can pull the motor without removing the trans. You probably can with a manual also as long as you have room to pull the engine forward but with a manual it might be a struggle to put the engine back in. You can use a normal floor jack for the trans but doing that you will have to use a little more muscle to guide it. I've pulled many transmissions with just a floor jack.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 okay thank you i appreciate it, also these driveshaft bolts and the bolts where the downpipe meets the header are being a total bitch. i’ve tried a torch and an air impact and no dice on either of them any tips?
If heat won't get them off you will have to cut them off the down pipe. Drive shaft use heat and put all the muscle you have in it and use the 2 wrench method that I used in the video. Good luck brother hope my advice helps.
Remove the access cover that sets between the bellhousing and the oil pan. You will have to remove a couple bolts and rotate the pressure plate and remove a couple more and rotate again till you get them all out.
Thanks for the video man i got a 1999 mustang GT and the exhaust manifold studs were fucked up so i couldnt bolt the cat on so I tried to blow em out with my oxy acytlene torch whelp fucked up the manifold now. mine is an automatic tho is the process relatively the same?
Mostly the same. You will have transmission lines to remove and you will have to remove cover on the front of the bellhousing to remove your torque converter bolts.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 1 more question I've seen a lot of other people do it without pulling the intake manifold they just do the fuel line and main engine harness to the car etc. Is the point of doint all of that just to get to the top 2 tranny bolts?
Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the heads and bring it out as one piece or unbolt it at the first connection closest to the front of the car and pull the engine with it intact. You can pull these engines with long tube headers. That sounds like that's what you have unless someone weld everything together instead of using hardware.
Hey man I saved your video on the 4.6l tear down & watched your parts list video as well but looks like you deleted them? Are you still waiting on the machine shop to assemble or did you toss this project?🤔
Oh I see now! Thanks man thoes videos are much help. I'm in the process of building a teksid 4.6l for my 1996 gt so I can put some boost to her. But dang that's crazy it's still at the shop! What all are they doing?
Boring the block and shaving the heads. Took forever to get my rotating assembly and he stays behind. All machine shops are behind in my area. Its been exactly a year ago when I dropped it off. I'm getting anxious.
Yo I got a question about a 4.6L I dropped in my manual gt 01. When I drunk it up it was running very poorly and was like something was holding it back you can watch a video of it on my channel
I found your video. Really hard to tell till you do something about the exhaust but sounds like you got a huge vacuum leak or its miss firing. Did you put in new plugs and wires?
I would get the exhaust fixed first and go from there. Clean your mass air flow sensor and make sure all vacuum lines are in good condition with no cracks.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 I just spun a rod bearing doing donuts on low oil in my 98 gt 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️ I’m so heartbroken 😂😂 so I gotta do this. Sheesh. It’s amazing you did this all with that electric tool and
Your manufacturer date must have been in 97 and its stamped as a 98. If you have 2 fuel lines then one should be a return line. Ford went returnless on these cars sometime in 98
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 This is the comment i was searching for, the engine and trans can be removed together? We are about to pull my kids 3.8 and looking for the best way. As long as it isnt just a bent valve in #4.
Pretty much. Take inspection cover off of bottom of transmission and unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate. Break the transmission bolts loose at the crossmember and just slide the trans back enough to clear the engine leaving the driveshaft installed. No need to remove driveshaft or drain the automatic transmission.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 Im in Seattle so probably triple that lol. Is there a fuel pump assembly that will work on this car that can mount from the top of the tank and hang down? The welds broke off of mine and fixing it didnt work either.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 thanks for the reply. My trunk is full of subwoofers. Which is why my basket broke off twice so far. No fuel gauge sucks and a new tank would only break eventually. Ive seen top mounted cells but I dont know how to check for compatibility. I could drill holes and bolt the basket down but Im afraid it will leak. Maybe if someone drills my tank and steals my gas that would be a good enough reason for me to just drill it. The factory spot welds aren’t working and neither did the epoxy :/
Hello sir, today is Friday, Feb 3rd 2023. You recently directed me to this video. Towards the very end of this video where the engine is clear out of the bay, you can see the fire wall in the area of where the heater core is located. You can also see the engine being lifted out of the bay. However, the engine does not have this braided cable that my engine block does. And, the fire wall of the heater core on your video does not seem to have this braided ground cable wire either. Perhaps you removed this braided ground cable and it was not in the video. Or, this engine does not have this braided ground cable. Nevertheless, I'll keep on plugging and doing my research. Thank you. Oh, I didn't explain to you the issue with my GT. It cranks but does not start. I have squirted raw fuel in the throttle body but it does not start. Usually, on any car if you do this it will start for a few seconds. Thank you for your support.
Ok I just went to look and I don't have a braided wire. Mine didn't come with one. Yours could be a add on wire from the previous owner. You are spraying fuel and it won't start? You don't have a fuel problem you have a firing problem.
Hey bud didn't think much about it but there is a braided cable that gose from passenger side fender at the back up to the passenger side hood on the back inside. That cable would be long enough to reach back of head making you think thats where it goes.
This video is solid, straight to the point, no bullshitting around no unnecessary information or anything to waste time. Got me to the point where I’m ready to pull. just waiting on my cherry picker and engine stand to get here.
Thanks. I try to keep the videos short as possible without leaving any steps out. I'm waiting on the forged crankshaft and pistons to get here and it will be Dec before my connecting rods show up. Hopefully be making rebuild videos around that time.
Been looking for a solid video on this for 2 weeks and finally I found one who explained and more thank you I appreciate you I drive a 02 gt convertible and the engine sized so me and my pop are replacing it thank you Agian for all the help !!!
You're welcome brother!
Garrett Adams THANK YOU SO MUCH for your service! You're what I call a true hero. Hats off to ya brother!
Brother God willing we need our freedom back! God bless my man
Any tips before I attempt this tomorrow?
Appreciate you again. I watched this probably over 10 times. You have the best video on removing this engine! All I got left is transmission mounts and engine mounts and she out! 💯💯
I fought with that passenger bottom bolt on the downpipe for 2 days. It was stuck and stripped. Pb blaster and an extraction socket got her on out 💯💯
Glad it helps brother.
Thanks so much for this video. Just pulled the engine from my 98 and used this every step of the way!
You're welcome brother
I been looking for a vid like this!! Finally !! 😁thank you so much man for the info keep up the great work ! 😎💯much love take care bro
You are welcome! Thanks for watching brother.
Not even halfway done watching this video but I just want to say thank you for making it 💯
You're welcome
Man thanks so much for this video you just gave me a lot of motivation. I have a 2001 gt I got for free and I just bought the engine for 600 I’m about to drop it in this weekend!
You're welcome brother! I can't wait to get back to working on the mustang. Started building a shop and it has drove me in the ground with all the work. Hope to have it done by this weekend. The electrical is whats taking me so long. Bending 10-2 wire is like bending steel.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 you have a new subscriber here thanks for replying I wish you good luck. believe me when I say this year started of ruff but I see the light and everything is coming together . Best of luck
Thanks for the support man! Keep your head up and pave your own path!
Good job .you make it look so easy .I did mine 2 times last year .doing little upgrades .now I have to do it again for replacement. You made a good video
Thanks! Its really not that bad. Now I just need to either find a coyote engine or rebuild the one I got. Either way I'm making a decision soon.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 yea make sure you check oil on a regular basis. I got lazy and seized my 2v by not checking my oil level .I had a gallon of oil in the trunk because 263k on the original burned a lill bit of oil .then for 2 weeks I would get in and start driving .and say to myself "you need check the oil when you get there ." Well at 3:15am I went for that engines final drive .now I own 2 4v 4.6 engines to replace my 263k mile original 2v it's kind of sad that engine was so reliable. How about you do the cobra R swap with a lincoln aviator 5.4 and make a video .then you can use coyote intake manifold. It will give you content for Y.T. and help out the people like me who want to .I have searched and there's not a lot of good videos of the process just before and after videos .but not the actual process
I will definitely look into that swap and whatever I decide it will be on youtube with every step shown.
Another fun video with good instruction. Thanks
Thanks! This one was a fun project! Now if I can make up my mind about the engine I can get to restoring the darn thing!
What a VIDEO!!! I don’t even own a Ford product and had to respect this content. Thumbs up!
Thanks a million!
Good video removing everything. Lots of great editing as well! I hit the big red button to follow the build.
Thanks brother for the support! Means a lot. Got a lot to do. Restoring inside and out with a lot of upgrades.
I thought I recognized your youtube name. Nice mach 1! I'm getting the same wheels you have unless I change my mind before I'm ready buy them. I've hit the big red button for your build as well.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 Thank you very much. I can’t wait to see your build!
Makes two of us!
this deserves a lot more views and likes, thank you for the awesome video
Thanks brother for the kind words and support.
Great video very helpful, putting a motor in the exact same car now
Thanks man! Just got done with building my shop so I can get back to making videos
As an avid builder of mod motors I gotta say this video was a good effort. You did a lot of good things but you also did a lot of unnecessary things that could’ve stayed on the motor and streamlined the entire process. The engine harness stays on the motor and you disconnect it from the main harness on the passenger side engine bay.
I always disconnect the harnesses from the engine before I pull one if I plan on rebuilding it. Either way the harnesses has to come off. Thanks for watching and God bless.
I am watching this the day before attempting to pull the engine out of my 02 GT in my shop that I work at, I am an advisor NOT a mechanic, I’ll keep y’all updatd
Very helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome.
Thank you for actually showing where the motor mounts were i looked at many videos and all of them just say to remove the bolts but dont actually show the location to reach it or what it even looks like, i have an 03 gt with no trans on it so i can basically see everything down there hoping removal is way easier without dealing with the trans or exhaust holding it to the back
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 any advice on the fuse box? With my luck i pretty much destroyed the engine compartment fuse box trying to remove the fusible link from the post to remove the wiring harness and i hope i dont have to cut anything to make and splice it later if not needed
If I was you I would replace the fuse box with a new one or a good used and take pics where everything plugs in at on the old one so you don't lose track of where the harnesses go. If you have to do any splices make sure you use the same gauge wire and solder all connections and cover with heat shrink wrap.
I can appreciate this
Thank you.
Impressive
Great video, you are serious patient to do all that while filming. I would be swearing and throwing the camera across the room every 5 minutes
Oh I do all of that! Editing is a great tool.
I know I'm a little late to the party but the wire harness can come out with the engine, disconnect the 3 in the passenger corner, off the fuse box and disconnect the grounds and the whole thing comes out with the engine
Yes I've done it both ways.
It’s so clean under it
Its definitely not to nasty!
I just did one of these that was supercharged, that starter was a pita!!! When I put it back together I left the motor mount and header off on the pass side supported by my cherry picker until I got the starter in. I did not say one cuss word putting the started back in!!!
Love it
does anyone have the link to a video that shows how to remove the engine with the wiring harness, keeping everything plugged in?
Great video I didn’t have to mess with trans besides bolts around housing ofcourse why did you remove everything else if you left trans under car? Just wondering
Makes it easier when you put an engine back in and I wanted to show the steps to remove the trans
You make it look so effortlessly.
Its easy compared to other vehicles.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 are you a mechanic?
Certified no but been working on cars since I was 13 and that was 30 years ago
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 a certified mechanic couldn't come close to your skills.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 your pretty much disassembled the whole car and recorded while doing so, not skipping anything also mentioning the size of bolts. And I thought mustangs are what you did based upon how effortless you did it but looking at your channel you got it for free and went at it! That's mind blowing 🤯
On the starter bolts side I have longtube headers in the way. Is there anyway of getting those bolts off without removing headers or k member 3 for started and two for transmission bolts?
A few long extensions and from front of engine go between headers and motor mount. You will have to feel for the bolts but it can be done.
I have a question, do you need a transmission jack to complete this job, or can you just unbolt the bell housing from the motor and leave the trans hanging on the transmission mounts while the motor gets pulled?
If your car is a automatic you can pull the motor without removing the trans. You probably can with a manual also as long as you have room to pull the engine forward but with a manual it might be a struggle to put the engine back in. You can use a normal floor jack for the trans but doing that you will have to use a little more muscle to guide it. I've pulled many transmissions with just a floor jack.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 okay thank you i appreciate it, also these driveshaft bolts and the bolts where the downpipe meets the header are being a total bitch. i’ve tried a torch and an air impact and no dice on either of them any tips?
If heat won't get them off you will have to cut them off the down pipe. Drive shaft use heat and put all the muscle you have in it and use the 2 wrench method that I used in the video. Good luck brother hope my advice helps.
I have an auto. Where do i access the torque converter bolts from?
Remove the access cover that sets between the bellhousing and the oil pan. You will have to remove a couple bolts and rotate the pressure plate and remove a couple more and rotate again till you get them all out.
Thanks for the video man i got a 1999 mustang GT and the exhaust manifold studs were fucked up so i couldnt bolt the cat on so I tried to blow em out with my oxy acytlene torch whelp fucked up the manifold now. mine is an automatic tho is the process relatively the same?
Mostly the same. You will have transmission lines to remove and you will have to remove cover on the front of the bellhousing to remove your torque converter bolts.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261ok thanks, also how long did it take to remove the engine i am also in your situation doing it outside in the cold😂
You can do it in a day if you stay with it. Took me several because of my job. About 2 hrs a day for a week
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 yeah i got time on my hands because i just dropped outta highschool to go do shit like this
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 1 more question I've seen a lot of other people do it without pulling the intake manifold they just do the fuel line and main engine harness to the car etc. Is the point of doint all of that just to get to the top 2 tranny bolts?
how should i disconnect my exhaust if i dont have cats and is no where to disconnect them? just cut em??
Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the heads and bring it out as one piece or unbolt it at the first connection closest to the front of the car and pull the engine with it intact. You can pull these engines with long tube headers. That sounds like that's what you have unless someone weld everything together instead of using hardware.
Hey man I saved your video on the 4.6l tear down & watched your parts list video as well but looks like you deleted them? Are you still waiting on the machine shop to assemble or did you toss this project?🤔
The tear down should still be on there and I had to delete the parts list due to youtube policy. Will have to remake that one
Sorry I had it locked. You should be able to see it now and yes stuff still at the machine shop
Oh I see now! Thanks man thoes videos are much help. I'm in the process of building a teksid 4.6l for my 1996 gt so I can put some boost to her. But dang that's crazy it's still at the shop! What all are they doing?
Boring the block and shaving the heads. Took forever to get my rotating assembly and he stays behind. All machine shops are behind in my area. Its been exactly a year ago when I dropped it off. I'm getting anxious.
My 2003 victoria engine looks the same except that the air intake is on the opposite side
Pretty much is the same
Yo I got a question about a 4.6L I dropped in my manual gt 01. When I drunk it up it was running very poorly and was like something was holding it back you can watch a video of it on my channel
I found your video. Really hard to tell till you do something about the exhaust but sounds like you got a huge vacuum leak or its miss firing. Did you put in new plugs and wires?
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 yes I put in new plugs and wires
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 we also put it on the computer and the only code was 02 sensor
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 and Yea everyone telling me it’s the exhaust tbh
I would get the exhaust fixed first and go from there. Clean your mass air flow sensor and make sure all vacuum lines are in good condition with no cracks.
You make it look easy mane.
Its not to hard
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 I just spun a rod bearing doing donuts on low oil in my 98 gt 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️ I’m so heartbroken 😂😂 so I gotta do this. Sheesh. It’s amazing you did this all with that electric tool and
Sorry to hear that man. Definitely sucks
@@isolateddieselperformance3261help! 😂😂 I’m finally tackling this. My 98 has 2 fuel lines. What’s the difference
Your manufacturer date must have been in 97 and its stamped as a 98. If you have 2 fuel lines then one should be a return line. Ford went returnless on these cars sometime in 98
What was your plan for the GT Motor
Rebuilding it.
Do you need the remove tranny to get just the motor out?
No you can leave it in if you want. I only took mine out cause I have other stuff to replace
It’s so much easier leaving the trans bolted to motor and taking everything out together
Not where I was pulling it out. Its really only about 6 to 7 bolts and a few inch pull back on the trans difference.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 This is the comment i was searching for, the engine and trans can be removed together? We are about to pull my kids 3.8 and looking for the best way. As long as it isnt just a bent valve in #4.
Yes they can be pulled together. I choose not to do it that way.
Is it much different from a Mach 1 engine?
Im not 100% sure but shouldn't be to much difference. They all should be close to the same on the 99-04 models.
Is it the same process with a automatic?
Pretty much. Take inspection cover off of bottom of transmission and unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate. Break the transmission bolts loose at the crossmember and just slide the trans back enough to clear the engine leaving the driveshaft installed. No need to remove driveshaft or drain the automatic transmission.
How long should it take
Working fast with no rust or problems about 10 hrs.
What is a fair price for a shop to charge to swap this 4.6? Also, how much to rebuild? Great vid!
A swap about $1000. Rebuild with labor between $2000 to $3000 depending on where you live. Thats ballpark figures.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 Im in Seattle so probably triple that lol. Is there a fuel pump assembly that will work on this car that can mount from the top of the tank and hang down? The welds broke off of mine and fixing it didnt work either.
Im not to sure. Might can find a fuel cell that will fit in the trunk. Only thing with that is you would have to pop the trunk every time you fill up.
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 thanks for the reply. My trunk is full of subwoofers. Which is why my basket broke off twice so far. No fuel gauge sucks and a new tank would only break eventually. Ive seen top mounted cells but I dont know how to check for compatibility. I could drill holes and bolt the basket down but Im afraid it will leak. Maybe if someone drills my tank and steals my gas that would be a good enough reason for me to just drill it. The factory spot welds aren’t working and neither did the epoxy :/
If you don't need the back seat you can put a rear seat delete in and put your subs there to free room for a fuel cell in the trunk
Hello sir, today is Friday, Feb 3rd 2023. You recently directed me to this video. Towards the very end of this video where the engine is clear out of the bay, you can see the fire wall in the area of where the heater core is located. You can also see the engine being lifted out of the bay. However, the engine does not have this braided cable that my engine block does. And, the fire wall of the heater core on your video does not seem to have this braided ground cable wire either. Perhaps you removed this braided ground cable and it was not in the video. Or, this engine does not have this braided ground cable. Nevertheless, I'll keep on plugging and doing my research. Thank you. Oh, I didn't explain to you the issue with my GT. It cranks but does not start. I have squirted raw fuel in the throttle body but it does not start. Usually, on any car if you do this it will start for a few seconds. Thank you for your support.
Ok I just went to look and I don't have a braided wire. Mine didn't come with one. Yours could be a add on wire from the previous owner. You are spraying fuel and it won't start? You don't have a fuel problem you have a firing problem.
Wait what model is your car and are the heads cast iron or aluminum?
@@isolateddieselperformance3261 1999 Mustang GT. Heads are Aluminum alloy. Not cast iron.
Ground wire could be factory for a 99. Mines a 04
Hey bud didn't think much about it but there is a braided cable that gose from passenger side fender at the back up to the passenger side hood on the back inside. That cable would be long enough to reach back of head making you think thats where it goes.
Get a tissue
You've got your narcissist rocks off by trying to put me down so....... what now??