I never liked using auto ISO so I do set my control ring to ISO and it works well for me. I also set the lens fn button to AF-3D tracking. This way the AF-on will focus with whatever AF mode is set but the L-Fn button will override that and track a subject all over the frame.
Hi Joseph. Great you found a workflow that works for you. That is the most important. I'll try out setting the lens fn-button to AF-3d tracking. Maybe it can improve the keepers rate, if I'm faster at locking the focus. However, I expect that it will still have trouble keeping up with fast moving macro subjects.
I can honestly say I have never used the control ring. I control everything from the camera body and I find the 105MC lens absolutely amazing. Its optics are sensational.
100% agree on the sharpness of this lens. Diffraction doesn't really start hurting until f/19. I was shooting the old f-mount 105VR on a Z6 and everything was great, but after upgrading to the higher mpix of Z7ii it just wasn't acceptable.I've shot thousands of images with it since the day of the release and I've got no complaints. Only reason I pick something else is if I want something lighter or need a higher magnification (Mostly Laowa 90mm 2x and the 25mm 2.5 to 5x).
Yes, absolutely@@wendysaunders2917. It should work great for that. To get the best results, I think you need to add some kind of light source to get enough light. Because you are so close to the baby's face, any slight movement will end up as motion blur. LED enables you shoot at faster shutter speed. I don't think an up-close macro flash work well with baby eyes 🙂
5:06 in the film days, you had to check the table - which usually came with the lens documentation_ to know how much to compensate exposure according to the magnification. At 1:1 it's usually almost 2 stops of light (your f2.8 lens behaves more like an f5.6, regardless the focal length). Nice video !
Thank you for the feedback, I love to experiment with video. I don't know about the panther at 10:32. Maybe it is more like a panda falling from a tree. I had to retake this shot 7-8 times before I could make it work. Thanks for the feedback @DuncanMinutz
I just bought this lens and noticed the aperture bit you mentioned. I usually always relied on auto-focus for photography but after trying this a few times I think I will have to use manual as you do
I think the Sigma 105mm APO OS or the older Nikon 105mm VR even with it's CA would be better with an FTZ. The wierd aperture ring and lack of TC compatibility on this Nikon lens turn me right off. What a shame, I would have preferred a native Z lens. I have used the awful non-clicking aperture ring on the other S lenses. What was Nikon thinking?
Great, I tried that but found I often end up in a situation where I bumped the control ring and ended up doing exposure compensation when I didn't want to. Maybe my fingers are clumsy :-)
@@wendysaunders2917 you can just use it at distance as a portrait lens - its flattering and pin sharp. Only thing I would say for portraits is that the auto focus is slow, so something like the z80mm 1.8 prime is prob the best for that.
I started my headshot business off this 105. I also use thr plena now sometimes. But in general the 105 is my go to portrait lens if I want razor sharp. The Plena is great but its a bit difficult to explain why i pick it over the 105 other than the colors.
the 105 f2.8G is my favourite lens of all time. I shoot it on a D700 and not a Z camera. I think if I had a Z7 or the like, I'd stick with my G lens and adapt it.
Nope, once you go from 12Mpix to 46Mpix, you will soon see the shortcomings in the older lens. If you borrow or hire a Z7 and the Z 105 then compare the two systems you will be shocked. We have emotional favourites, but there is a reason the old 200mm macro is revered and not the old 105mm...
Thanks for the review Peter! Your explanation of aperture values when at close focus, 'effective aperture' can be more easily explained: i.e. at 1:1 (life size) two stops of light are lost, so the 'effective aperture' of a f2.8 lens becomes 'f5.6'... this is the law of physics and light, nothing can be done by the user to change it. At 0.5x (half life size) the light loss is just one stop, thus f2.8 becomes an effective aperture of f4. Thus, 'effective apertures are purely dependent on image size, and image size is of course dictated by how close you are to the subject. Also, depth-of-field diminishes rapidly as the image (subject) magnification increases to 1:1, so accurate focusing is essential - although I guess everybody now uses focus stacks to get around this issue! 😉
You’re welcome, and thanks for sharing the details about effective aperture with others. Maybe in the future I will create a dedicated video about it. :-)
I absolutely love all my Z lenses but agree that the position and design of the control rings is poorly thought out and can easily lead to mistakes. The idea is great, the implementation poor. However, they can be disabled but that's a shame ...
Hi Gregory, Autofocus is a bit slow with some camera bodies. However, for macro distance I actually also recommend that you rock gently back and forth until you get focus. This is much faster and more reliable than any autofocus. So you don't need it.
Hello Peter - I already have a few Nikon F-mount macro lenses, but I've been considering the 105mm Z-mount. One thing that I'm curious about is if the focus by wire functionality of the Z lenses becomes a bit cumbersome when it comes to macro shooting? My concern is that you may have to iterate more with the manual focus at macro distances, going back and forth a bit, given the slight delay between you turning the focusing ring and the lens reacting. Due to the delay you might overshoot the focus point. Have you found that to be the case? Also, I'm curious if you've used the F-mount 200mm macro, and if so, how do you find the sharpness of that lens as compared to the Z-mount 105mm? I love the ability of being able to stay further away from the subject when using the 200mm. With regard to your comments about it taking a long time to rotate through the focusing range when at macro distances, do you have the f9 Focus Ring Rotation Range speed set to non-linear or do you have it at a fixed angle of rotation so that it moves a fixed amount regardless of how fast you rotate the focusing ring? If you set it to non-linear you could get get to your desired focusing point, or at least nearby, quicker by rotating the focusing ring faster. From there you could rotate the focusing ring slower to fine tune it. Just a thought.
Hi Robert, thanks for your comment. So far I have been using focus by wire. So you have got a good point there. But this is the default functionality of the lens, so that is what you will experience if you get this lens. But I guess I should have mentioned in the video, that you can actually change it. One of the reasons I don't change it is because of using the lens for video as well, and with focus pulling, I need to know exactly how much to turn the ring to end on a specific focus point. However, for non-video use, I would definitely give the non-linear focus settings a try. With my normal focus method, by rocking a bit back and forth, the delay issue btw. turning the lens and the lens reacting is not there, because you kind of set the lens once, and then just move your body. In my opinion, it also doesn't matter if you overshoot, as it doesn't cost you anything to take some extra shots. Overshooting if you do it right, opens up for doing a bit of focus stacking if you need it. I will play with the non-linear method the next time I am out shooting :-) Thanks for the heads up.
@@antonmeijer6709 I use a Laowa vekx800 - Flash KV-800: geni.us/GFqu (Amazon). I think the most important factor is whether you can modify the position of the flash head. You can do that with some ring flashes as well. If you are just starting out, then any speedlight with a circular diffuser with a hole in it. Something like this amzn.to/3Nv3ng4. You can also make it yourself. However, with this solution, you cannot change the position of the flash, so you will find that your images will look a bit more flat. But it is great and cheap for starting out, especially if you already own a regular Flash. But the diffuser is important. I hope it helps 🙂
Very great detailed review but do you think that I can get away with the older lens I am starting to love micro photography but don't have a budget to get this lens should I go with some old manual lens
Yes, an older used lens is a great way to start. Also Laowa are known for making good manual focus lenses. The are cheaper than the Nikon Z 105, but still they are not cheap as a used lens. Good luck :-)
I have been using this lens for the last three months and like you said its an amazing lens.... great video... also hoping they bring out a teleconverter for macro only... would be great to increase the magnification
@@peterbredahldam that is true although at 100mm focal length those will prob get you up to 1.5x only. They Raynox 250 I found to be the perfect answer although the depth of field becomes razor thin so f8 and above only I use.
Not only endured the video but enjoyed the heck out of it. The 105 is one of my favorite lenses, I find I never use it enough. I ended up using it for headshots in studio a lot this year and found it was quite good there as well. I was looking for the answer to the question today, of whether I could use a teleconverter or not. Turns out no, I was trying to be cheap and not buy a longer lens for a landscape image I am envisioning, as this is currently my longest lens. Thanks again and love your video! Are you using the DJI pocket for your walk about videos?
I thing a longer lens will do you good in the long run, even though it is a big investment. Anyway, I actually use the Nikon Z6 II + 24-70mm on a gimbal for most shots including the walk about selfie style shots. It is heavy, but I like the look of the shots. On a few shots I use the DJI action 2 camera, but I don't really like the noise and low quality I get in the shots when the light is low for forest shots. So 99% of the shots are on the Nikon Z6 II.
That is good to hear, as it at least validates the need to own a second camera for filming. Your panning shots were so smooth I imagined some type of gimbal. Very heavy indeed! I have some of the necessary pieces but find it hard to imagine hiking into the woods with all of it. Maybe the edge of the woods. :) Researching that Nikon Zf, maybe the Z6II upgrade? @@peterbredahldam
Hi, does the hood help in macro (micro)😅 environment? I use my 18-55 reverse for macro and its not easy to shoot hand held with full open aparture and if you dont openup it is very hard to see.. you will probably get a couple of mm of infocus area (DOF) however I love that challenge... I use a very old flash with a self made extension+ diffuser and gives me nice results.
Hi, I usually don't use the hood for macro, but I might forget to take it off from time to time. It steals a bit of light. Generally, I wouldn't use it unless I would try to reduce flares in the lens in certain types of backlit shots.
Hi Farouk, it depends on whether you already have a 90-100 one time magnification lens. If not, get the Nikon Z 105 as you can use it for so much more than a x2 lens. Also, I don't know which level of macro photography skills you have. If you are just beginning, I also think that the Nikon z 105 will serve you better. However, if you already got a great x1 lens with a focal range at the same range of the Nikon, and you have macro experience, you can open up a new area of exploration with a x2 magnification lens. Hope it helps.
I have a Z6ii and a Nikkor 105 S lens with a Z mount f2.8. In manual mode, I can only select up to f3, and it doesn't go to f2.8. Am I doing something wrong in the settings, or do I have to take the lens to the service center?
Hi, Don’t worry. Nikon macro lenses show the effective aperture taking light loss into account. Many other brands doesn’t. If you scroll down the comments you will see more about this, and I also mention this in the video. Sorry about the late reply, I have been offline for a few days while on holiday
I have the opposite issue on focus. I am mounting it on my Z8 and also Z50. On both cameras when i try to focus on a person for example, the autofocus doesn’t get the shot at all, then i resort to the manual focus ring, but when i try to shoot something small and from short distances, the focus captures it correctly. Do you know what might be a solution for this?
If you check the obvious reasons like the focus limiter switch being accidentally set to only focus within 0.5 m and you still have the issue, I suggest you take it up with Nikon. But I sometimes flick the focus limiter switch myself, so try to check that first. Good luck :-)
Maybe I'm just a dinosaur but when did we start expecting autofocus to be snappy on a macro lens? In fact, when did anyone start using autofocus at 1:1? It certainly wasn't a particularly useful practice with the older F mount macro lenses. So either I'm behind the times or we're applying an unreasonable standard to this lens in terms of AF. Also, for those complaining about 1:1 performance, well, macro is hard. Dang hard. Depth of field is minute. Lighting is difficult. Camera needs to be rock steady if not using flash. I'd say macro at 1:1 or higher is one of the more technically difficult forms of photography and there doesn't seem to be anything inherent in this lens that makes it any more difficult than it normally is.
I agree, macro photography is hard. However, many expect macro lenses to be able to auto focus. And I think actually that the Z 105mm could be better, compared other lenses, I have tried. However, as I mention in the video, at close distance I use another technique, so it is not a big deal.
@@peterbredahldam So I guess the question is, does anyone make a fast and accurate auto focusing 105mm macro lens both at close and far distances? If not then I don't think it merits criticism. It would be like complaining that a 600mm f/2.8 is large. It has always been my understanding that rapid focus across the focus range is simply is not possible due to the physical requirements of a dedicated macro lens. But, as mentioned, I am almost certainly behind the times. Maybe Sony or Canon have overcome these constraints in which case Nikon has dropped the ball.
Thanks. Have you tried just to let the focus ring be at the minimum focus distance and then move your body back and forth and then take a burst of shots? This will give you a couple of keepers
it’s just the nature of macro lenses. They’re not great at focusing. That’s why it’s recommended to use manual focusing while moving your body back and forth and take lots of pics (exactly like Peter suggested). With the focus peaking feature it’s easy to see which part of the insect is in focus
I have had this lens for about 6 months.for portrait and visitors it's great. How ever I struggle to get those great close-up .The auto focus is slow, (very slow,).I introduce flash to improve my marco work, still hit and miss...... Yes I know it's best with manual. I think that for a desdicated Marco lens I would look else wear. For the odd close up it's ok. F 8...... Is minum more lick F 16.for insects.0ut door its a frustrating tool for macro. So will I sell my lens ? No I have other uses and I can work at insects close ups. Just be aware of other cheaper or value for money. Marco really should be a reason for the choice not the brand name. I am going toup grade from z 7.2 to z 8 or 9 just for auto focus improvement . Cheers nice review.
The question is how much you need the autofocus at the closest range. If I want to get the most magnification out of the 105, I set it to manual focus and use a rocking motion back and forth and fire off shots when I see focus.
@@peterbredahldam I've started using AF more with the 105S after upgrading from Z7ii to Z8. I'm getting twice as many keepers and the focus feels faster.
Use the Nikon Z 105 macro lens for getting great flower photos, with the tips, I share in this video: czcams.com/video/sKwKmUxY7R0/video.html
I never liked using auto ISO so I do set my control ring to ISO and it works well for me. I also set the lens fn button to AF-3D tracking. This way the AF-on will focus with whatever AF mode is set but the L-Fn button will override that and track a subject all over the frame.
Hi Joseph. Great you found a workflow that works for you. That is the most important.
I'll try out setting the lens fn-button to AF-3d tracking. Maybe it can improve the keepers rate, if I'm faster at locking the focus. However, I expect that it will still have trouble keeping up with fast moving macro subjects.
I can honestly say I have never used the control ring. I control everything from the camera body and I find the 105MC lens absolutely amazing. Its optics are sensational.
100% agree on the sharpness of this lens. Diffraction doesn't really start hurting until f/19. I was shooting the old f-mount 105VR on a Z6 and everything was great, but after upgrading to the higher mpix of Z7ii it just wasn't acceptable.I've shot thousands of images with it since the day of the release and I've got no complaints. Only reason I pick something else is if I want something lighter or need a higher magnification (Mostly Laowa 90mm 2x and the 25mm 2.5 to 5x).
Thanks for sharing your experience with the f-mount 105VR on mirrorless. Valuable insights
Could I use this kende for close ups of baby’s face for eg lips or eyelashes?
Yes, absolutely@@wendysaunders2917. It should work great for that. To get the best results, I think you need to add some kind of light source to get enough light. Because you are so close to the baby's face, any slight movement will end up as motion blur. LED enables you shoot at faster shutter speed.
I don't think an up-close macro flash work well with baby eyes 🙂
5:06 in the film days, you had to check the table - which usually came with the lens documentation_ to know how much to compensate exposure according to the magnification. At 1:1 it's usually almost 2 stops of light (your f2.8 lens behaves more like an f5.6, regardless the focal length).
Nice video !
Thanks you for the comment and feedback, @pedrova8058
This is my favorite 105 tutorial video just because I love Peter’s video editing and transitions! 😂
10:32 Man jumped out the tree like black panther.
Thank you for the feedback, I love to experiment with video. I don't know about the panther at 10:32. Maybe it is more like a panda falling from a tree.
I had to retake this shot 7-8 times before I could make it work. Thanks for the feedback @DuncanMinutz
I just bought this lens and noticed the aperture bit you mentioned. I usually always relied on auto-focus for photography but after trying this a few times I think I will have to use manual as you do
I think the Sigma 105mm APO OS or the older Nikon 105mm VR even with it's CA would be better with an FTZ. The wierd aperture ring and lack of TC compatibility on this Nikon lens turn me right off. What a shame, I would have preferred a native Z lens. I have used the awful non-clicking aperture ring on the other S lenses. What was Nikon thinking?
I would love to know how this compares to the Tokina 100mm Macro lens with the FTZ. It has always been one of my favourite lenses.
Sorry, I haven't used the Tokina 100mm Macro. So I really cannot tell anything else but what the specs says.
I shoot manual, auto ISO and the control ring set to exposure compensation.
Great, I tried that but found I often end up in a situation where I bumped the control ring and ended up doing exposure compensation when I didn't want to. Maybe my fingers are clumsy :-)
It's not a lens!! this is a bomb,it is also very good for portraits, very beautiful blur, and of course it is wildly sharp.
Effective apperature 4.5 at 1:1 is superior to all macro lenses I had
Do you use it for close ups of baby”s face eg eye lashes or lips etc?
@@wendysaunders2917 you can just use it at distance as a portrait lens - its flattering and pin sharp. Only thing I would say for portraits is that the auto focus is slow, so something like the z80mm 1.8 prime is prob the best for that.
I started my headshot business off this 105. I also use thr plena now sometimes. But in general the 105 is my go to portrait lens if I want razor sharp.
The Plena is great but its a bit difficult to explain why i pick it over the 105 other than the colors.
the 105 f2.8G is my favourite lens of all time. I shoot it on a D700 and not a Z camera. I think if I had a Z7 or the like, I'd stick with my G lens and adapt it.
Nope, once you go from 12Mpix to 46Mpix, you will soon see the shortcomings in the older lens. If you borrow or hire a Z7 and the Z 105 then compare the two systems you will be shocked. We have emotional favourites, but there is a reason the old 200mm macro is revered and not the old 105mm...
Thanks for the review Peter! Your explanation of aperture values when at close focus, 'effective aperture' can be more easily explained: i.e. at 1:1 (life size) two stops of light are lost, so the 'effective aperture' of a f2.8 lens becomes 'f5.6'... this is the law of physics and light, nothing can be done by the user to change it. At 0.5x (half life size) the light loss is just one stop, thus f2.8 becomes an effective aperture of f4. Thus, 'effective apertures are purely dependent on image size, and image size is of course dictated by how close you are to the subject. Also, depth-of-field diminishes rapidly as the image (subject) magnification increases to 1:1, so accurate focusing is essential - although I guess everybody now uses focus stacks to get around this issue! 😉
You’re welcome, and thanks for sharing the details about effective aperture with others. Maybe in the future I will create a dedicated video about it. :-)
I absolutely love all my Z lenses but agree that the position and design of the control rings is poorly thought out and can easily lead to mistakes. The idea is great, the implementation poor. However, they can be disabled but that's a shame ...
This is my first Z lens. I’ve been struggling with focusing for macro. Usually, I can’t get the autofocus to work for macro.
Hi Gregory,
Autofocus is a bit slow with some camera bodies. However, for macro distance I actually also recommend that you rock gently back and forth until you get focus. This is much faster and more reliable than any autofocus. So you don't need it.
Turn on focus peaking. Makes it a world easier.
Thank you for sharing your experience and recommendations.
You're welcome :-)
Hello Peter - I already have a few Nikon F-mount macro lenses, but I've been considering the 105mm Z-mount. One thing that I'm curious about is if the focus by wire functionality of the Z lenses becomes a bit cumbersome when it comes to macro shooting? My concern is that you may have to iterate more with the manual focus at macro distances, going back and forth a bit, given the slight delay between you turning the focusing ring and the lens reacting. Due to the delay you might overshoot the focus point. Have you found that to be the case? Also, I'm curious if you've used the F-mount 200mm macro, and if so, how do you find the sharpness of that lens as compared to the Z-mount 105mm? I love the ability of being able to stay further away from the subject when using the 200mm.
With regard to your comments about it taking a long time to rotate through the focusing range when at macro distances, do you have the f9 Focus Ring Rotation Range speed set to non-linear or do you have it at a fixed angle of rotation so that it moves a fixed amount regardless of how fast you rotate the focusing ring? If you set it to non-linear you could get get to your desired focusing point, or at least nearby, quicker by rotating the focusing ring faster. From there you could rotate the focusing ring slower to fine tune it. Just a thought.
Hi Robert, thanks for your comment.
So far I have been using focus by wire. So you have got a good point there. But this is the default functionality of the lens, so that is what you will experience if you get this lens. But I guess I should have mentioned in the video, that you can actually change it.
One of the reasons I don't change it is because of using the lens for video as well, and with focus pulling, I need to know exactly how much to turn the ring to end on a specific focus point. However, for non-video use, I would definitely give the non-linear focus settings a try.
With my normal focus method, by rocking a bit back and forth, the delay issue btw. turning the lens and the lens reacting is not there, because you kind of set the lens once, and then just move your body. In my opinion, it also doesn't matter if you overshoot, as it doesn't cost you anything to take some extra shots. Overshooting if you do it right, opens up for doing a bit of focus stacking if you need it.
I will play with the non-linear method the next time I am out shooting :-) Thanks for the heads up.
Forgot to answer you about the 200mm, sorry I haven't tried it, but would love to, if I get the possibility.
What kind of a flash setup would you suggest?
@@antonmeijer6709 I use a Laowa vekx800 - Flash KV-800: geni.us/GFqu (Amazon). I think the most important factor is whether you can modify the position of the flash head. You can do that with some ring flashes as well. If you are just starting out, then any speedlight with a circular diffuser with a hole in it. Something like this amzn.to/3Nv3ng4. You can also make it yourself. However, with this solution, you cannot change the position of the flash, so you will find that your images will look a bit more flat. But it is great and cheap for starting out, especially if you already own a regular Flash. But the diffuser is important. I hope it helps 🙂
@@peterbredahldam thank you for the explanation
I have the older 105 Macro with the adaptor which is slightly unwieldy but I have had it so long I am used to its foibles. As for output it is superb.
Yes, the older 105 from Nikon has a really good reputation for being sharp, and the new Z 105 does an amazing job, and is so sharp.
Thank you Peter. I'm getting the lens this week.
Sounds like a great choice. Good luck with it :-)
Very great detailed review but do you think that I can get away with the older lens I am starting to love micro photography but don't have a budget to get this lens should I go with some old manual lens
Yes, an older used lens is a great way to start. Also Laowa are known for making good manual focus lenses. The are cheaper than the Nikon Z 105, but still they are not cheap as a used lens. Good luck :-)
I have been using this lens for the last three months and like you said its an amazing lens.... great video... also hoping they bring out a teleconverter for macro only... would be great to increase the magnification
Thanks for the feedback. Even if they don't develop a teleconverter for the macrolens you can still add a set of extension tubes.
@@peterbredahldam that is true although at 100mm focal length those will prob get you up to 1.5x only. They Raynox 250 I found to be the perfect answer although the depth of field becomes razor thin so f8 and above only I use.
Not only endured the video but enjoyed the heck out of it. The 105 is one of my favorite lenses, I find I never use it enough. I ended up using it for headshots in studio a lot this year and found it was quite good there as well. I was looking for the answer to the question today, of whether I could use a teleconverter or not. Turns out no, I was trying to be cheap and not buy a longer lens for a landscape image I am envisioning, as this is currently my longest lens. Thanks again and love your video! Are you using the DJI pocket for your walk about videos?
I thing a longer lens will do you good in the long run, even though it is a big investment. Anyway, I actually use the Nikon Z6 II + 24-70mm on a gimbal for most shots including the walk about selfie style shots. It is heavy, but I like the look of the shots. On a few shots I use the DJI action 2 camera, but I don't really like the noise and low quality I get in the shots when the light is low for forest shots. So 99% of the shots are on the Nikon Z6 II.
That is good to hear, as it at least validates the need to own a second camera for filming. Your panning shots were so smooth I imagined some type of gimbal. Very heavy indeed! I have some of the necessary pieces but find it hard to imagine hiking into the woods with all of it. Maybe the edge of the woods. :) Researching that Nikon Zf, maybe the Z6II upgrade?
@@peterbredahldam
I find the control ring very useful to control the aperture on the fly.
Thanks for the feedback. I have tried it, but for me it doesn't work so well, because I accidentally bump it sometimes.
@@peterbredahldam I had to set mine to off. For me it was way to easy to move unintentionally.
Control ring is exposure compensation on all of my Z lenses
I’m going to try this out today
Hi, does the hood help in macro (micro)😅 environment?
I use my 18-55 reverse for macro and its not easy to shoot hand held with full open aparture and if you dont openup it is very hard to see.. you will probably get a couple of mm of infocus area (DOF) however I love that challenge... I use a very old flash with a self made extension+ diffuser and gives me nice results.
Hi,
I usually don't use the hood for macro, but I might forget to take it off from time to time. It steals a bit of light. Generally, I wouldn't use it unless I would try to reduce flares in the lens in certain types of backlit shots.
@@peterbredahldam Thank you
Should i go with this or the laowa 100m with x2 i like macro and potrait so im really between the 2. thnx in advanced :)
Hi Farouk, it depends on whether you already have a 90-100 one time magnification lens. If not, get the Nikon Z 105 as you can use it for so much more than a x2 lens. Also, I don't know which level of macro photography skills you have. If you are just beginning, I also think that the Nikon z 105 will serve you better. However, if you already got a great x1 lens with a focal range at the same range of the Nikon, and you have macro experience, you can open up a new area of exploration with a x2 magnification lens. Hope it helps.
do you mean the original F mount 105?
No, it’s the Z mount
Great video, thank you.
I have a Z6ii and a Nikkor 105 S lens with a Z mount f2.8. In manual mode, I can only select up to f3, and it doesn't go to f2.8. Am I doing something wrong in the settings, or do I have to take the lens to the service center?
Hi,
Don’t worry. Nikon macro lenses show the effective aperture taking light loss into account. Many other brands doesn’t. If you scroll down the comments you will see more about this, and I also mention this in the video.
Sorry about the late reply, I have been offline for a few days while on holiday
@@peterbredahldam Thanks!
I have the opposite issue on focus. I am mounting it on my Z8 and also Z50. On both cameras when i try to focus on a person for example, the autofocus doesn’t get the shot at all, then i resort to the manual focus ring, but when i try to shoot something small and from short distances, the focus captures it correctly. Do you know what might be a solution for this?
If you check the obvious reasons like the focus limiter switch being accidentally set to only focus within 0.5 m and you still have the issue, I suggest you take it up with Nikon. But I sometimes flick the focus limiter switch myself, so try to check that first. Good luck :-)
@@peterbredahldam I've made this mistake before and didn't realise why my lens wasn't focusing. I felt so dumb, haha!!!
Maybe I'm just a dinosaur but when did we start expecting autofocus to be snappy on a macro lens? In fact, when did anyone start using autofocus at 1:1? It certainly wasn't a particularly useful practice with the older F mount macro lenses. So either I'm behind the times or we're applying an unreasonable standard to this lens in terms of AF.
Also, for those complaining about 1:1 performance, well, macro is hard. Dang hard. Depth of field is minute. Lighting is difficult. Camera needs to be rock steady if not using flash. I'd say macro at 1:1 or higher is one of the more technically difficult forms of photography and there doesn't seem to be anything inherent in this lens that makes it any more difficult than it normally is.
I agree, macro photography is hard. However, many expect macro lenses to be able to auto focus. And I think actually that the Z 105mm could be better, compared other lenses, I have tried. However, as I mention in the video, at close distance I use another technique, so it is not a big deal.
@@peterbredahldam So I guess the question is, does anyone make a fast and accurate auto focusing 105mm macro lens both at close and far distances? If not then I don't think it merits criticism. It would be like complaining that a 600mm f/2.8 is large. It has always been my understanding that rapid focus across the focus range is simply is not possible due to the physical requirements of a dedicated macro lens. But, as mentioned, I am almost certainly behind the times. Maybe Sony or Canon have overcome these constraints in which case Nikon has dropped the ball.
Hi, your photos are great. I use nikon Z MC 50mm. Its difficult MF when close to objects for 1:1, and AF doesn't work well.
Thanks. Have you tried just to let the focus ring be at the minimum focus distance and then move your body back and forth and then take a burst of shots? This will give you a couple of keepers
it’s just the nature of macro lenses. They’re not great at focusing. That’s why it’s recommended to use manual focusing while moving your body back and forth and take lots of pics (exactly like Peter suggested). With the focus peaking feature it’s easy to see which part of the insect is in focus
@@loitruong4821 Spot on :-) and great you mention the focus peak feature (since I forgot too). It's a great aid for manual focus.
I have had this lens for about 6 months.for portrait and visitors it's great. How ever I struggle to get those great close-up .The auto focus is slow, (very slow,).I introduce flash to improve my marco work, still hit and miss...... Yes I know it's best with manual. I think that for a desdicated Marco lens I would look else wear. For the odd close up it's ok. F 8...... Is minum more lick F 16.for insects.0ut door its a frustrating tool for macro. So will I sell my lens ? No I have other uses and I can work at insects close ups. Just be aware of other cheaper or value for money. Marco really should be a reason for the choice not the brand name. I am going toup grade from z 7.2 to z 8 or 9 just for auto focus improvement . Cheers nice review.
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated. I think the Nikon Z8 looks very promising, even though I haven't tried it :-)
The question is how much you need the autofocus at the closest range. If I want to get the most magnification out of the 105, I set it to manual focus and use a rocking motion back and forth and fire off shots when I see focus.
@@peterbredahldam I've started using AF more with the 105S after upgrading from Z7ii to Z8. I'm getting twice as many keepers and the focus feels faster.
Wont buy even after.