Hi, I just wanted to take a moment a thank you for this video. My Pastor and I adding a new addition to our Church and the addition is going to have two valleys in which neither of us have built before. This video and a few others really helped. Thank You.
Great video! I really love your detailed explanation and the fact that it's done with detailed drawings and not on a loud construction site! It is much easier to follow.
Have watched 50 odd vids regarding roofs, speeds squares, framing squares and they all proclaim to be experts. Nothing compares to this, i think they could all learn a trick or two from you as i did. Perfect explanation and well delivered . Exactly what i have been looking for the whole time. Came the the long route and for me the search is over. Job done. Thank you Sir . Thank you for handing over keys to the safe. YES
This is literally the most comprehensive to the point instructional video I have ever seen On CZcams. You have a gift of simplicity. I would have loved to learn from you starting out.
Fantstic vids. Golden information. Much thanks. Good to know your human. Its very different when your on a job and often perfection is a little impractical especially in these conditions on the roof top. As long as the job is done and it work, the rest is semantics. Thanks for these vids. Just brilliant.
I've got a project that is just about exactly the same as the photos of the job you did. Addition all the way to the edge of the house with existing hip roof. Tying into that hip is what's racking my brain
You have a gift for teaching. You can explain things so that even a 5 year old can understand. No fancy words, not very many people have the gift of explaining things clearly. THANK YOU, We must continue to refine our God given gifts until we die.
I’m not really a framer but have framed a few roofs and struggled on this “fill section” every time. I happen to come across your video and can’t thank you enough! Setting the plate at the proper points seemed to be my biggest downfall until I saw your video. Today I cut each valley once and fit perfectly! Thanks again I wish I could post a pic of what I did today. This was a life saver!!
Sounds awesome and glad to help. And if it makes you feel even the tiniest bit better, I've worked with carpenters who've been in the business for over 20 years and wouldn't even attempt to build something like this.
Thank you for this video I work for the local 290 carpenter's Union just started 5 months ago and this video is explaining exactly what I'm going to be doing in the next couple days ..thanks man very informative
Great explanation. When I was 20 I added an L shaped addition onto our wee small house. I had very poor tools or skills, and only had a couple of books to read on how to do this. I know now that nothing was built anyway near code (Did this to an old farm house) but it worked and we lived in that house for 43 years and would be living in it still if it hadn't burned to the ground in 2018. I look at the rafters in our new house and believe they were built with magic or something. It's a new 1900 sq ft house and I doubt that there are more than a handful of rafters that are identical.
To find the angle of the material being used to California frame into an existing roof could also be found by subtracting the degree of pitch on existing roof from 90. For example, if you’re working with an 8/12 pitch roof, it would be 33.75 degrees. Subtract that from 90, and you get 56.25. That should be the angle for your ridge
Perfect illustration , I'm doing this for a customer there only difference is I'm going to the existing ridge of the home not somewhere in the middle of the roof it was a PAIN IN THE ASS to figure this part out , I wish You could've posted this 1week ago
Hello Greg, is there any info out there for using the framing square and rafter tables ? I know everyone seems to be using the speed square but I still would like to see how to use to framing square and tables if something is available.
My question is when you say find the angle to cut the nailer board, how do you do that? What angle do you set the bevel cut to if you know it’s a 12 and 12 3/4?
at 0:10 can you describe how the flashing might look where the fly rafter is running into the roof? I am imagining, peal and stick in the valley, then drip edge on the rake, metal valley flashing extending down over the drip edge. But what about flashing the vertical portion of the fly rafter to the roof? would you do that similar to a dormer? The multiple angles are confusing me.
If I am adding this to an existing structure should I strip back the shingles and tarpaper to the sheathing? I'm thinking it would be stronger to strip it back and nail straight to the sheathing, I would need to redo the shingles in that area anyways, but I have seen it done straight to the shingles too
Thank you for these videos! The hardest part I'm working on is the chalk line and the angles of my cuts. I have a 4/12 original house roof, a 3/12 addition onto my existing house probably from the 1970s, and then an addition we are building with a 4/12 roof rotated and with a California fill. If you have any advice for dealing with multiple pitches, I'd appreciate it!!
The top or plumb fill rafter cuts and bottom level cuts will be 3:12 and the angle for the bottom level cut will be for a 4:12. Let me know if this make sense.
Need help with adding roof for 8x16 addition onto modular home for office workspace. How do we get started need roof on rear of house and we want to extend roof at front of house to cover new porch. Room addition is vital at this point. Need roof framing plans for permit-etc. Can you guide us through the process.
The only assistance I can offer are the videos found at the website. I'm not currently offering paid services for designing. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/home_additions/index.html
Here's a link to our website for roof designs and let me know if you can't find what you're looking for. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/design/addition/index.html
I am planning a room addition in the back of the existing hour similar to your model. The issue I have is there is a chimney to an existing fireplace right at one side of the California roof (same as at 5:15). What is your suggestion? Do i just frame around the chimney and have the chimney be part of the California roof? If so, what potential problems should I be watching out for? Thank you.
In most cases you can frame around the chimney, but the chimney might need to be raised. Here's a link to a video that might be helpful.czcams.com/video/jM_szt61BX8/video.html If for some reason you can't figure it out, feel free to send me a drawing or picture for more information.
Is engineering evaluation necessary when making an extension with the roof overlaying the existing roof structure of home being remodeled? I'm thinking about adding a garage next to my house and do a similar set up like you have in this video.
I have question... I have a home that currently has this exact type of addition ,and am currently wanting to connect an additional addition to this, am I able to this with some sort of a pitch, or if you have any suggestions for me
You can use any pitch for your addition. For example if your existing house has a five and 12 roof pitch, you can use a two and 12 for your room addition.
@@gregvancom thank you Greg for the reply. your videos are such an inspiration! so for clarification,,, the current addition is about 12x 20, and if I wanted to add another 12x 17 to the inside corner, it should be able to be done w efficiency, correct?... my reasoning for wanting a good pitch is that I'm in southern Wisconsin, and this is the north west side of the home, I fear ice damming, and moisture not alot of sunlight drying hours daily... thank you again for your time tips patience, and sharing your wisdom!! its greatly appreciated!
OK, so can I build one of these "fill" roofs right in the corner of a valley, to roof an addition going in down below to the house. A 10 foot by 10 foot room, which will sit right in the corner where 2 roofs meet to form an "L" and the valley drains off right to where the addition will go. How could I tie in a roof right there in the corner? Thank You, enjoying your instructional videos!! Raul , PHX
@@gregvancom OK, Yes, as soon as I can take a picture I will get back to you. I will check your website and get your e-mail. Thank You and God Bless, Raul PHX
Not currently, but you could always go by some of my books. However, don't buy any of them if you don't have anyone to give them to or if you don't need them. I had a website support page for a year and didn't collect much money so I removed it.
I just want to be clear, so the rafter that is attached to the nailers would be the pitch of the old roof (which is 5) and the top of the rafter that attaches to the ridge would be the same as the new roof (which is 4)? Is this correct?
@@rodwinjade You are correct, the bottom (bevel cut) will match the degree of the existing roof slope. The top of the new rafter will be cut to whatever slope the new roof will be. If the two slopes are different, then you'll have to cut back the tails on the steeper slope, making a shorter overhang, so that your overhangs will be at the same height.
maybe you'll see this and reply...you are saying that if you have a shear wall and the existing roof already has plywood on it, you must cut some ventilation holes in the existing roof to allow the completely closed off new dormer section to have airflow and to breathe? and also, what if a rafter is really really long?? do you need a gusset or collar tie in the upper or lower 1/3 of the rafter to tie one side to the other? o and also, do you need hurricane straps or anything if your rafters are again within that closed off section that needs air flow?? until you cut those air channels in the old roof decking its not like you cant get any uplift of the new roof since its closed off but if you cut those air channels in, now it can get uplift no?
You should probably contact a structural engineer before cutting into any structural shear wall. Ventilation can usually be acquired through other methods like dormer vents. Collar ties are usually required along with roof rafter ties when using roof rafters. Airflow and ventilation usually don't affect the location of structural building hardware. The design might play an important role in whether or not there will be any uplift.
@@gregvancom i wouldnt be cutting into anything structural. im installing the shear wall but as i stated like i saw in your video, you cut into the existing roof sheathing/plywood so attic air can get up into this new section that will closed off once the new plywood is on and the shear wall is built. im confused, are you saying this video is not rafters? my setup looks 100% like this video but its 10 times bigger is all.
Very informative information sir. Question. I am interested in building a covered deck for my mother. But her home is a mobile home. How would the rafters established? Lastly her roof is a metal sheet.
The structure might need to be separate from the mobile home. For example you could use four separate posts with footings under them to build your patio cover, so that there wouldn't be any load bearing surfaces connecting to the mobile home. If this doesn't make sense let me know.
gregvancom First, I have limited knowledge of construction but it does fascinate my interest. Can you break down what you suggested. Lastly, is there a way to show you what I would be working with as far as my mothers decking location and roof?
Sir, I greatly appreciate your knowledge and specifically addressing my obstacle during your personal time. Very few people with knowledge, that I asked help from, don’t share with others. Lastly, the first link video you sent; The patio cover on the end of the home. The patio would be on the front side (long ways). This would be the same concept as putting it were on the end like how you designed it?
Hi, I have a garage which is around 6mths old and want to add another garage to it but in a L shape. Our roofs are lined with corrugated metal, we don't line our roofs with ply how is the ridge beam added to the metal roof, cheers.
I'm having a difficult time figuring out what you're asking. You can email me some pictures, drawings or illustrations of what you're trying to do or provide me with more details.
gregvancom hi, I understand I'm wanting to do what this diagram suggests, the ridge beam would be sitting on a metal roof, Not plywood. Would I need to take off some of the metal roof, am I making any sense, cheers.
@@egidioborg3421 In the roof ridge might be able to sit on top of some blocking installed in between the existing roofs rafters framing. Let me know if that makes sense.
gregvancom yea that does make sense, I would need to remove the metal sheeting and work out We're the ridge beam would be placed then add the block, and that is we're the beam would sit on. Once that is done I can re-apply the metal sheeting, I think ???. What's your thought on this.
Did you account for the distance from the peak of the truss to the top of the ridge board? That theoretical peak means the ridge has to be dropped an extra 1/2 inch or so, right?
I didn't get into using math formulas, so it wouldn't be needed. The theoretical rafter length might not be necessary when using the examples I provided in the video.
I'm just saying there's a difference in height in a truss peak and the actual top of a framed ridge board. That peak is not there on a framed roof, it's only a theoretical peak. So if you set the ridge extension on top of that peak, then wouldn't you also need to cut an extra half inch or so from the other end, so it will drop the right amount on both ends?
It's hard to understand what you're asking, but if you're working with an existing ridge and simply measuring each rafter individually to the edge of the ridge, then you wouldn't need to make any adjustments because of the theoretical ridge line.
It has to do with the ridge board of the add on. When the roof of the add on is stick framed, then you set the ridge extension on top of the add on's ridge board and put a level on it. Then, when it's level, you mark where it get's cut, meaning it will drop 5 1/2 inches if it's a 2x6. That, in turn, means the other end has to drop the same amount. So, when you set this ridge extension on the peak of a truss, dropping 5 1/2 inches will have the top corners sticking up too high. This is because of the peak. That's why I say you'd have to drop it an extra amount. That amount would be the distance from the peak the the top of where a ridge would be, if it were stick framed. The alternative would be to 'back' the ridge board, and no one would do that.
Okay, I just figured out where the confusion is coming from. You're making a pattern for the angled cut where it hits the existing roof, and then measuring for the length of the new ridge board. The way I was taught is to use a scrap piece the same width as the ridge board, placed on the existing roof and slid up to the top corner of the ridge, on the main roof end. Then you mark that angle, and also mark the other end where it gets cut square. This makes it drop the right amount. The extra drop (when using trusses) is not applicable in your case, since you're measuring the length of the board. Just a slightly different way to achieve the same result. Sorry about the confusion.
I would check with a roofer or roofing materials supply store for more info. Certain parts of the U.S. and world might have different sizes or building code requirements.
@@gregvancom how do I calculate that? I pop the line from the edge of my first rafter on the top plate to the edge of the ridge, then measure down 1 3/4"? Or how do I find the correct measurement for that nailer?
Good video but you know what there's always that but but it might help you in your next video or give you a good video to post is how to read a square framing square because once you have one measurement of your rafter Valley rafter if you know at the pich you know how much to add for your next Valley or even hip rafter to add on not sure if you're old school like me that you know that cuz it seems like just the old school guys know how to read a framing square
It's always going to be great to know how to use all of the tools, but sometimes a simple pattern can be used. If you have a framing square, then use it if you don't then make a pattern.
gregvancom not being smart but the point I was trying to get at is you can get the next Rafters measurement without even measuring I was told that It was geometry I said I don't know I'm just reading it Off The Square
I don't view your comment is out of line or cruel and I hope my comment isn't taken that way either. There are other ways to fill in this section of a roof and the one I provided in the video seems like it might be the easiest for someone who isn't familiar with a framing square or other roof framing construction methods.
gregvancom you're absolutely right it is easiest way is there any saying our conversation got your video probably to come up more on CZcams every little bit helps thumbs up
I hope our conversation helps my CZcams rankings and you're absolutely right, every little bit helps. Thanks for commenting and sharing your knowledge with everyone who reads your post.
I haven't made a video on that one yet, but feel free to email me some pictures or drawing of what you're referring to. You can get our email address at our website.
At 2:02 take a 2x4 scrap lay it on edge on roof slope or right hand side and scribe a line on fill in ridge board ( this will give you slope and line you need to cut.).....on left side Mark the line at where it butts into existing ridge.......cut both of those and there is your fill in ridge....takes 5 min You will not need to measure anything for this process, it will fit perfect
No mention of removing the bearing wall below that the existing rafters sit on from the main/old structure, which can't be done unless you install valley lvl's and sister in new joists going up to the main ridge. Or install a beam spanning the new addition and hang the old rafters into it. Get with it
This is what I was searching for as well. I want to add this type of addition but the section of exterior wall on the addition side will be bumped out 8' into the addition to enlarge the old room. How do I support the old roof/ceiling joists if I move this section of wall?
That's odd, because usually toe nails provide a stronger connection, especially for vertical uplift. I might not be able to change the inspectors mind, but if you're looking for more information, feel free to send me some pictures of the nailing.
Hi, I just wanted to take a moment a thank you for this video. My Pastor and I adding a new addition to our Church and the addition is going to have two valleys in which neither of us have built before. This video and a few others really helped. Thank You.
Glad to help and you're welcome.
Great video! I really love your detailed explanation and the fact that it's done with detailed drawings and not on a loud construction site! It is much easier to follow.
Glad you liked it and thanks for letting us know.
This is the video I've been looking for. Great video. Easy to understand. Thank you very much.
Have watched 50 odd vids regarding roofs, speeds squares, framing squares and they all proclaim to be experts. Nothing compares to this, i think they could all learn a trick or two from you as i did. Perfect explanation and well delivered . Exactly what i have been looking for the whole time. Came the the long route and for me the search is over. Job done. Thank you Sir . Thank you for handing over keys to the safe. YES
You're welcome and thanks for the wonderful comment. I always enjoy hearing comments like yours and keep them coming.
Thank you very much for the concise and clear video. Most helpful!
So well explained, between the drawings and the actual pictures, it explains the procedure very clearly, thank you.
Comments like yours are always sincerely appreciated and glad I could make some sense out of this construction procedure.
The best construction videos I've ever seen! Many thanks for building a bridge for those that follow.
You're welcome and thanks for the kind words, they're always sincerely appreciated.
This is literally the most comprehensive to the point instructional video I have ever seen
On CZcams. You have a gift of simplicity. I would have loved to learn from you starting out.
I always enjoy reading comments like yours and sincerely appreciate you sharing it with me. Keep learning and keep watching.
Great Videos, extending my garage with the same type of roof and this is all I needed to see , YES 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I’m a general contractor and stumbled on this, your videos are wonderful, descriptive and easy to follow! Spot on on all accounts great job!
Glad you liked it and I like easy.
DITTO
Fantstic vids. Golden information. Much thanks. Good to know your human. Its very different when your on a job and often perfection is a little impractical especially in these conditions on the roof top. As long as the job is done and it work, the rest is semantics. Thanks for these vids. Just brilliant.
You're welcome and glad you enjoyed it.
I've got a project that is just about exactly the same as the photos of the job you did. Addition all the way to the edge of the house with existing hip roof. Tying into that hip is what's racking my brain
You are a wealth of knowledge, I’m doing a room addition right now just dug the crawl space thank you.
Glad to help
You have a gift for teaching. You can explain things so that even a 5 year old can understand. No fancy words, not very many people have the gift of explaining things clearly.
THANK YOU, We must continue to refine our God given gifts until we die.
All of your videos are so well explained.
Hey Greg great Video, will watch again, I understood everything besides the second line.
A beautiful job explaining a complex technique.............THANK YOU.
You're welcome and thanks for the big thank you.
I’m not really a framer but have framed a few roofs and struggled on this “fill section” every time. I happen to come across your video and can’t thank you enough! Setting the plate at the proper points seemed to be my biggest downfall until I saw your video. Today I cut each valley once and fit perfectly! Thanks again I wish I could post a pic of what I did today. This was a life saver!!
Sounds awesome and glad to help. And if it makes you feel even the tiniest bit better, I've worked with carpenters who've been in the business for over 20 years and wouldn't even attempt to build something like this.
Your videos sure are helping me in this season of life! Thank you!
Happy to help!
Thank you for this video I work for the local 290 carpenter's Union just started 5 months ago and this video is explaining exactly what I'm going to be doing in the next couple days ..thanks man very informative
You are very welcome
Great explanation. When I was 20 I added an L shaped addition onto our wee small house. I had very poor tools or skills, and only had a couple of books to read on how to do this. I know now that nothing was built anyway near code (Did this to an old farm house) but it worked and we lived in that house for 43 years and would be living in it still if it hadn't burned to the ground in 2018. I look at the rafters in our new house and believe they were built with magic or something. It's a new 1900 sq ft house and I doubt that there are more than a handful of rafters that are identical.
Thank you . Your video had a lot of info and it was clear to learn .
You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to let us know that it made sense.
This helped me out. I was able to get the job done on my barn.
thank you very much for the time dedicated to each video ... You are an excellent teacher ... thank you for your extraordinary explanation ... ’
You are most welcome and thanks for the kind words.
Just love a lot...
Thank you very much for posting such a nice video this video...
I can usually figure things out, but you taking the time and explaining is generous and helpful.
I appreciate that!
Underrated channel for sure
I agree and thanks for watching.
Great video. Gave me the confidence to give it a shot.
Send me a picture of what it looks like when you're done, no matter what it looks like:)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome and this does seem to be a popular video.
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome!
To find the angle of the material being used to California frame into an existing roof could also be found by subtracting the degree of pitch on existing roof from 90. For example, if you’re working with an 8/12 pitch roof, it would be 33.75 degrees. Subtract that from 90, and you get 56.25. That should be the angle for your ridge
How do you transfer the pitch to degrees?
Thank you so much for making this , such a good explanation
You're welcome.
Absolutely amazing explanation! Now I need you to come to my house and help me accomplish it. 👍😂
And it would be even better if I could do it for free.
Great job! Thanks again
You're welcome again and thanks for watching. It's always nice to hear positive comments.
Really good video thanks for teaching how to build a California roof... your are better than my boss to explain
Awesome, just don't tell your boss.
This is amazing video. Learned a lot. Will watch more.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for the help. I’ll do my first California tomorrow. Good video
Awesome. Email me a picture if it turns out great.
Great video! Thank you
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Best video yet
Great help!
Glad you liked it.
Thank you information is very helpful
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Great video
awesome presentation ty
Thank you very much and thanks for watching.
Excellent advice thanks sir 😀😀😀😀
Excellent video! I am at this point on my personal house build.
You can do it!
Great content boss!!!
More to come!
Great video. Love it
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks I can't wait to do a job like this
great videos. very helpful
Glad you like them and thanks for letting me know.
this video make my plant go easy .Thanks a lot.
Most welcome 😊
Excellent video
Thank you and thanks for watching.
You said that you are not professional, but you did very good job from this video.
I hope I didn't say I wasn't a professional, because I've done this plenty of times and thanks for the nice comment.
Great info , I would remind all framing guys that if you are using a metal roof watch out for humps and bumps in your work. 👍🏻🇨🇦
Great tip!
Perfect illustration , I'm doing this for a customer there only difference is I'm going to the existing ridge of the home not somewhere in the middle of the roof it was a PAIN IN THE ASS to figure this part out , I wish You could've posted this 1week ago
I'm sorry I couldn't posted it sooner, but here it is nevertheless.
Most Excellent
Glad you liked it.
very helpful
Glad it helps and hope it can help many more people.
Thanks!
You're welcome and thank you!!!!!
Nice vid
nice video. do you recommend to work with Architect directly or work with contractors who offer both drawings + construction
Just one question. Why doesn't the ridge sit on top of the valley plate , instead of the sheathing. Wouldn't that be a stronger method. THX
Hello Greg, is there any info out there for using the framing square and rafter tables ? I know everyone seems to be using the speed square but I still would like to see how to use to framing square and tables if something is available.
My question is when you say find the angle to cut the nailer board, how do you do that? What angle do you set the bevel cut to if you know it’s a 12 and 12 3/4?
at 0:10 can you describe how the flashing might look where the fly rafter is running into the roof? I am imagining, peal and stick in the valley, then drip edge on the rake, metal valley flashing extending down over the drip edge. But what about flashing the vertical portion of the fly rafter to the roof? would you do that similar to a dormer? The multiple angles are confusing me.
I would probably need to do a video about roofing to answer your questions and when it is made, will put a link here.
"The inspectors not gonna see it!" ahah keeping it real for the people on the ground.
great job im doing my roof wrong im just removing and dooing to this way thank you for explain right
You're welcome and I'm glad the video helped. Sometimes all we need is a little information to do something correctly.
What if there is 2nd story wall in the way of fully extending the ridge rafter to a point up the roof?
If I am adding this to an existing structure should I strip back the shingles and tarpaper to the sheathing? I'm thinking it would be stronger to strip it back and nail straight to the sheathing, I would need to redo the shingles in that area anyways, but I have seen it done straight to the shingles too
Yes, strip back the roofing and attach the new lumber directly to the old lumber.
Thank you for these videos! The hardest part I'm working on is the chalk line and the angles of my cuts. I have a 4/12 original house roof, a 3/12 addition onto my existing house probably from the 1970s, and then an addition we are building with a 4/12 roof rotated and with a California fill. If you have any advice for dealing with multiple pitches, I'd appreciate it!!
The top or plumb fill rafter cuts and bottom level cuts will be 3:12 and the angle for the bottom level cut will be for a 4:12. Let me know if this make sense.
Hey, how did this work out with the different pitches?
Can you tell me if the valley needs to have metal flashing before roofing material is applied. I saw a video where it was not done.
Contact the roofing manufacture, because some do and some don't.
Question : Does the ridge need to be aligned with one of the rafters in the main roof?
No, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a block or a couple of blocks underneath the new fill ridge, in between the existing roof rafters.
Need help with adding roof for 8x16 addition onto modular home for office workspace. How do we get started need roof on rear of house and we want to extend roof at front of house to cover new porch. Room addition is vital at this point. Need roof framing plans for permit-etc. Can you guide us through the process.
The only assistance I can offer are the videos found at the website. I'm not currently offering paid services for designing.
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/home_additions/index.html
Do you have any examples or techniques for doing this on L shaped roof. In other words I will be needing the tie into two roofs.
Here's a link to our website for roof designs and let me know if you can't find what you're looking for.
www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/design/addition/index.html
I am planning a room addition in the back of the existing hour similar to your model. The issue I have is there is a chimney to an existing fireplace right at one side of the California roof (same as at 5:15). What is your suggestion? Do i just frame around the chimney and have the chimney be part of the California roof? If so, what potential problems should I be watching out for? Thank you.
In most cases you can frame around the chimney, but the chimney might need to be raised. Here's a link to a video that might be helpful.czcams.com/video/jM_szt61BX8/video.html
If for some reason you can't figure it out, feel free to send me a drawing or picture for more information.
@@gregvancom Thank you.
what did you use to grind down sub layer where the cal-fill mated to existing slope?
My circular saw, but you can use a planner.
how do you do a fill when the roof that the ridge goes to is 24 inches lower than you garage addition, please help
Send me a picture of your project and you can get our email address at the website.
how do we measure if this ridge board has a slope and a birdsmouth on one side?
Is engineering evaluation necessary when making an extension with the roof overlaying the existing roof structure of home being remodeled? I'm thinking about adding a garage next to my house and do a similar set up like you have in this video.
I would check with your local building department if you have one. Most structural modifications require engineering, but yours might not.
@@gregvancom Thank you. I very much appreciate your video on this. I will check with our building dept.
i think if you added the word "valley" to the title you would get alot more views on this vid!
I have question... I have a home that currently has this exact type of addition ,and am currently wanting to connect an additional addition to this, am I able to this with some sort of a pitch, or if you have any suggestions for me
You can use any pitch for your addition. For example if your existing house has a five and 12 roof pitch, you can use a two and 12 for your room addition.
@@gregvancom thank you Greg for the reply. your videos are such an inspiration! so for clarification,,, the current addition is about 12x 20, and if I wanted to add another 12x 17 to the inside corner, it should be able to be done w efficiency, correct?... my reasoning for wanting a good pitch is that I'm in southern Wisconsin, and this is the north west side of the home, I fear ice damming, and moisture not alot of sunlight drying hours daily... thank you again for your time tips patience, and sharing your wisdom!! its greatly appreciated!
You can just use a speed square to find the angle of your bevel cut on the jack rafters
Good point and you could use a framing square also.
OK, so can I build one of these "fill" roofs right in the corner of a valley, to roof an addition going in down below to the house. A 10 foot by 10 foot room, which will sit right in the corner where 2 roofs meet to form an "L" and the valley drains off right to where the addition will go. How could I tie in a roof right there in the corner? Thank You, enjoying your instructional videos!! Raul , PHX
If you can, email me a picture or a drawing of what you're trying to do. You can get our email address at our website.
@@gregvancom OK, Yes, as soon as I can take a picture I will get back to you. I will check your website and get your e-mail. Thank You and God Bless, Raul PHX
I'm so grateful for this video. Do you have a way to send you a tip?
Not currently, but you could always go by some of my books. However, don't buy any of them if you don't have anyone to give them to or if you don't need them. I had a website support page for a year and didn't collect much money so I removed it.
Do I need to add a rafter if one isn’t lined up with the ridge for the porch roof?
If it's not going to create a problem then no.
If the gable end is higher than the perpendicular ridge how would you go about it? about the same, or turn it into a dutch gable
I have plenty of roof design videos in the home addition and roof framing sections of our website.
If I am going from a 4 pitch roof to a 5 pitch roof to build my California Fill would I use 5 pitch for my measurements?
The new fill rafter should match the new roof pitch, but the angle of the bottom fill rafter's will need to match that of the existing roof.
I just want to be clear, so the rafter that is attached to the nailers would be the pitch of the old roof (which is 5) and the top of the rafter that attaches to the ridge would be the same as the new roof (which is 4)? Is this correct?
@@rodwinjade You are correct, the bottom (bevel cut) will match the degree of the existing roof slope. The top of the new rafter will be cut to whatever slope the new roof will be. If the two slopes are different, then you'll have to cut back the tails on the steeper slope, making a shorter overhang, so that your overhangs will be at the same height.
maybe you'll see this and reply...you are saying that if you have a shear wall and the existing roof already has plywood on it, you must cut some ventilation holes in the existing roof to allow the completely closed off new dormer section to have airflow and to breathe? and also, what if a rafter is really really long?? do you need a gusset or collar tie in the upper or lower 1/3 of the rafter to tie one side to the other? o and also, do you need hurricane straps or anything if your rafters are again within that closed off section that needs air flow?? until you cut those air channels in the old roof decking its not like you cant get any uplift of the new roof since its closed off but if you cut those air channels in, now it can get uplift no?
You should probably contact a structural engineer before cutting into any structural shear wall. Ventilation can usually be acquired through other methods like dormer vents.
Collar ties are usually required along with roof rafter ties when using roof rafters.
Airflow and ventilation usually don't affect the location of structural building hardware.
The design might play an important role in whether or not there will be any uplift.
@@gregvancom i wouldnt be cutting into anything structural. im installing the shear wall but as i stated like i saw in your video, you cut into the existing roof sheathing/plywood so attic air can get up into this new section that will closed off once the new plywood is on and the shear wall is built.
im confused, are you saying this video is not rafters?
my setup looks 100% like this video but its 10 times bigger is all.
Very informative information sir. Question. I am interested in building a covered deck for my mother. But her home is a mobile home. How would the rafters established? Lastly her roof is a metal sheet.
The structure might need to be separate from the mobile home. For example you could use four separate posts with footings under them to build your patio cover, so that there wouldn't be any load bearing surfaces connecting to the mobile home. If this doesn't make sense let me know.
gregvancom
First, I have limited knowledge of construction but it does fascinate my interest. Can you break down what you suggested. Lastly, is there a way to show you what I would be working with as far as my mothers decking location and roof?
This might help, but let me know if it doesn't czcams.com/video/SzkVJ2Sx0Fw/video.html
also czcams.com/play/PLC0UeuIWsWeUm9ok8Jv5HJeOkTOVBf-Ao.html
Sir, I greatly appreciate your knowledge and specifically addressing my obstacle during your personal time. Very few people with knowledge, that I asked help from, don’t share with others. Lastly, the first link video you sent; The patio cover on the end of the home. The patio would be on the front side (long ways). This would be the same concept as putting it were on the end like how you designed it?
Hi, I have a garage which is around 6mths old and want to add another garage to it but in a L shape.
Our roofs are lined with corrugated metal, we don't line our roofs with ply how is the ridge beam added to the metal roof, cheers.
I'm having a difficult time figuring out what you're asking. You can email me some pictures, drawings or illustrations of what you're trying to do or provide me with more details.
gregvancom hi, I understand I'm wanting to do what this diagram suggests, the ridge beam would be sitting on a metal roof,
Not plywood. Would I need to take off some of the metal roof, am I making any sense, cheers.
@@egidioborg3421 In the roof ridge might be able to sit on top of some blocking installed in between the existing roofs rafters framing. Let me know if that makes sense.
gregvancom yea that does make sense, I would need to remove the metal sheeting and work out
We're the ridge beam would be placed then add the block, and that is we're the beam would sit on.
Once that is done I can re-apply the metal sheeting, I think ???. What's your thought on this.
@@egidioborg3421 Yes and hopefully it works.
Did you account for the distance from the peak of the truss to the top of the ridge board? That theoretical peak means the ridge has to be dropped an extra 1/2 inch or so, right?
I didn't get into using math formulas, so it wouldn't be needed. The theoretical rafter length might not be necessary when using the examples I provided in the video.
I'm just saying there's a difference in height in a truss peak and the actual top of a framed ridge board. That peak is not there on a framed roof, it's only a theoretical peak. So if you set the ridge extension on top of that peak, then wouldn't you also need to cut an extra half inch or so from the other end, so it will drop the right amount on both ends?
It's hard to understand what you're asking, but if you're working with an existing ridge and simply measuring each rafter individually to the edge of the ridge, then you wouldn't need to make any adjustments because of the theoretical ridge line.
It has to do with the ridge board of the add on. When the roof of the add on is stick framed, then you set the ridge extension on top of the add on's ridge board and put a level on it. Then, when it's level, you mark where it get's cut, meaning it will drop 5 1/2 inches if it's a 2x6. That, in turn, means the other end has to drop the same amount. So, when you set this ridge extension on the peak of a truss, dropping 5 1/2 inches will have the top corners sticking up too high. This is because of the peak. That's why I say you'd have to drop it an extra amount. That amount would be the distance from the peak the the top of where a ridge would be, if it were stick framed. The alternative would be to 'back' the ridge board, and no one would do that.
Okay, I just figured out where the confusion is coming from. You're making a pattern for the angled cut where it hits the existing roof, and then measuring for the length of the new ridge board. The way I was taught is to use a scrap piece the same width as the ridge board, placed on the existing roof and slid up to the top corner of the ridge, on the main roof end. Then you mark that angle, and also mark the other end where it gets cut square. This makes it drop the right amount. The extra drop (when using trusses) is not applicable in your case, since you're measuring the length of the board. Just a slightly different way to achieve the same result. Sorry about the confusion.
how wide is the metal flashing supposed to be on those roof fillers?
What piece of metal are you referring to?
the galvanized flashing under the shingles where the snow piles up
I would check with a roofer or roofing materials supply store for more info. Certain parts of the U.S. and world might have different sizes or building code requirements.
What's the measurement from your plywood line to the sleeper or nailer on the fill roof?
It would depend on span or width of that section.
@@gregvancom how do I calculate that? I pop the line from the edge of my first rafter on the top plate to the edge of the ridge, then measure down 1 3/4"? Or how do I find the correct measurement for that nailer?
Good video but you know what there's always that but but it might help you in your next video or give you a good video to post is how to read a square framing square because once you have one measurement of your rafter Valley rafter if you know at the pich you know how much to add for your next Valley or even hip rafter to add on not sure if you're old school like me that you know that cuz it seems like just the old school guys know how to read a framing square
It's always going to be great to know how to use all of the tools, but sometimes a simple pattern can be used. If you have a framing square, then use it if you don't then make a pattern.
gregvancom not being smart but the point I was trying to get at is you can get the next Rafters measurement without even measuring I was told that It was geometry I said I don't know I'm just reading it Off The Square
I don't view your comment is out of line or cruel and I hope my comment isn't taken that way either. There are other ways to fill in this section of a roof and the one I provided in the video seems like it might be the easiest for someone who isn't familiar with a framing square or other roof framing construction methods.
gregvancom you're absolutely right it is easiest way is there any saying our conversation got your video probably to come up more on CZcams every little bit helps thumbs up
I hope our conversation helps my CZcams rankings and you're absolutely right, every little bit helps. Thanks for commenting and sharing your knowledge with everyone who reads your post.
What if the new ridge is higher than the existing hip?
I haven't made a video on that one yet, but feel free to email me some pictures or drawing of what you're referring to. You can get our email address at our website.
At 2:02 take a 2x4 scrap lay it on edge on roof slope or right hand side and scribe a line on fill in ridge board ( this will give you slope and line you need to cut.).....on left side Mark the line at where it butts into existing ridge.......cut both of those and there is your fill in ridge....takes 5 min
You will not need to measure anything for this process, it will fit perfect
I don't know if you're asking a question or sharing an experience, but if you are asking a question, feel free to ask away.
@@gregvancom sharing.......easy shortcut to cutting the fill in ridge without measuring anything
No mention of removing the bearing wall below that the existing rafters sit on from the main/old structure, which can't be done unless you install valley lvl's and sister in new joists going up to the main ridge. Or install a beam spanning the new addition and hang the old rafters into it. Get with it
If you're asking if I removed a load bearing wall, then no.
This is what I was searching for as well. I want to add this type of addition but the section of exterior wall on the addition side will be bumped out 8' into the addition to enlarge the old room. How do I support the old roof/ceiling joists if I move this section of wall?
thak you the did but how and jues now thak you all you thak you
Talking about the toe nails, my Wind Mitigation inspector would not pass it for homeowner insurance discount. I am very upset about this.
That's odd, because usually toe nails provide a stronger connection, especially for vertical uplift. I might not be able to change the inspectors mind, but if you're looking for more information, feel free to send me some pictures of the nailing.
@@gregvancom I agree. I think the inspector needs to go back to school.
@@Jay-tk7ib Yes, it is confusing.
Thanks!
Awesome and thank you!!!!