They are not cheap but if you keep them greased they will outlast the sled. Good for trail riding. Did you regrease the crank bearings for him with iso-flex? those bearings tend to let go without notice on the 2 strokes and take out rods cases etc... they should be greased every 600-800 hours imho. I have an 03 rev 800 with the x package, your clutch videos helped me out, I had Polaris sleds in the past. Still learning about the revs but I know quite a lot now.
Another great instructional video Dino. I started watching you as I have a DR, but enjoy all your content. If you have come across a good video on how to properly/factory lower the DR I’d be keen to see it, I’ve ordered the parts and will be doing mine at end of January. I’ve got a manual that seems comprehensive, but always helpful to visualise first. Finally, do you still plan to edit a video on your Tinker Shed renovation?
Thank you for the questions, I do have a fork seal video that shows all the components and which spacer to move to lower it. czcams.com/video/U-SsoWVYpM0/video.html As for the rear I do not have a video on that subject yet, I have reached out to a few other youtubers to see what they would recommend and will get back to you on that. I am still planning on the shed video over the winter. I have taken a bit of time off for the holidays but am back to production and it is on the list. Thank you again for the interest and support! Dino
Hi Again, MotoDans out of New Zeeland has a video that covers both front and rear, he says the audio is a bit quite but should have the information you need, his channel is really good as well and more than worth checking out. Here is the link to the video czcams.com/video/gPm9AKF5LBg/video.html Hope this helps. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed thanks Dino, really appreciate your response. I have already seen you fork seal video it’s great and really helpful for the forks even though I won’t need to change my seals. But it’s the shock lowering mainly I’m interested in, I have seen Dan’s but he doesn’t cover the shock either really. I think the Clymer manual I have will get me through.
Very helpful video! I am about to tackle installing a 2012 ski doo front suspension. Do you happen to have plans to do that video on installing the ball joint into the a arm? Did you just do hot/cold and a lot of brute first? I liked your camera work a lot!
Thank you for the comment. I have not had another sled to pull the ball joint out of yet. Because I did not have the correct tools I used a combination on large sockets, my vise and a large hammer to remove the old ball joint. the placement does not allow the socket to rest squarely on the control arm and in the end I had to rest half the control arm "boss" on the vise and tap the ball joint out. It was not really a good way to do it. Eventually I am sure I will have to replace another and I will produce a video on how to do it but it may not be for a while. Sorry Dino
A very clear video Dino with useful explanation of the steps taken.
Thanks Mal.
You made that look super easy...thanks!
You're welcome! thanks for watching and commenting.
Dino
Great upgrade
For sure, it should come from the factory really. Thank you for the comment
Dino
Those oilite bushings wear fast also. Mainway solutions has greaseable 660 bronze control arm and swing arm bushings that are much better.
Good to know, thank you for the information
Dino
They are not cheap but if you keep them greased they will outlast the sled. Good for trail riding. Did you regrease the crank bearings for him with iso-flex? those bearings tend to let go without notice on the 2 strokes and take out rods cases etc... they should be greased every 600-800 hours imho. I have an 03 rev 800 with the x package, your clutch videos helped me out, I had Polaris sleds in the past. Still learning about the revs but I know quite a lot now.
Another great instructional video Dino. I started watching you as I have a DR, but enjoy all your content. If you have come across a good video on how to properly/factory lower the DR I’d be keen to see it, I’ve ordered the parts and will be doing mine at end of January. I’ve got a manual that seems comprehensive, but always helpful to visualise first. Finally, do you still plan to edit a video on your Tinker Shed renovation?
Thank you for the questions, I do have a fork seal video that shows all the components and which spacer to move to lower it.
czcams.com/video/U-SsoWVYpM0/video.html
As for the rear I do not have a video on that subject yet, I have reached out to a few other youtubers to see what they would recommend and will get back to you on that.
I am still planning on the shed video over the winter. I have taken a bit of time off for the holidays but am back to production and it is on the list.
Thank you again for the interest and support!
Dino
Hi Again, MotoDans out of New Zeeland has a video that covers both front and rear, he says the audio is a bit quite but should have the information you need, his channel is really good as well and more than worth checking out. Here is the link to the video czcams.com/video/gPm9AKF5LBg/video.html
Hope this helps.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed thanks Dino, really appreciate your response. I have already seen you fork seal video it’s great and really helpful for the forks even though I won’t need to change my seals. But it’s the shock lowering mainly I’m interested in, I have seen Dan’s but he doesn’t cover the shock either really. I think the Clymer manual I have will get me through.
Great video Dino. "A dogs breakfast" lol I use that term often and often get confused looks ! Great stuff and thanks for the chuckle
Very helpful video! I am about to tackle installing a 2012 ski doo front suspension. Do you happen to have plans to do that video on installing the ball joint into the a arm? Did you just do hot/cold and a lot of brute first? I liked your camera work a lot!
Thank you for the comment. I have not had another sled to pull the ball joint out of yet. Because I did not have the correct tools I used a combination on large sockets, my vise and a large hammer to remove the old ball joint. the placement does not allow the socket to rest squarely on the control arm and in the end I had to rest half the control arm "boss" on the vise and tap the ball joint out. It was not really a good way to do it.
Eventually I am sure I will have to replace another and I will produce a video on how to do it but it may not be for a while.
Sorry
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed No problem at all, totally get that. Keep up the good work and thanks for the tips!
You're not using the wife's dish towels to wipe your greasy fingers off on, are you? 🙄
Another great vid, sir! 🤘
Lol just the old ones.