I believe that in a 1:1 application the dual rate springs are advantageous for preventing/controlling body roll. But overall I’m pretty sure the idea is that the tighter wound coils always mount towards the top side. This will allow a soft feel when the springs are resting at ride height or under a small load like on a low grip surface, however when you need the rigidity to keep from bottoming out over a bump the tighter wound coils near the top will push back the more the shock is compressed. Keeping a more consistent feel over all. PSA: I’m not sure how much any of that actually matters on 1/10 scale, if it does make a difference I would say that’s pretty cool!
Fliping the spring has no effect at all. The dual rate springs can either be a fancy one pice or split in to 2 springs to make it cheaper. A spring only knows that there is a force applied, from ware its applied doesent matter
From what I can tell reading along many websites in regards of those and other springs, by placing them one or the other way, you essentially change the center of gravity. The tighter part of the spring is stiffer and therefore acts almost as a solid, allowing mostly the lighter part of the spring do the work. I hope I explained that well enough ^^
Your two paragraphs are independent - and that is true. Yes, placing the heavier part of the spring on the bottom will have a SMALL impact on cog. Yes - a progressive rate spring will allow the lighter portion to compress first.
@@RoadsideRC Exactly :D btw: I finally have all my parts together and started to place orders. Mostly thx to your videos I managed to find my way through this wilderness of RC drifting components XD From the bottom of my heart, Thank you!!
Great job on the video! I always finish your videos learning something new every time. I'm located in central Illinois and just got my first rc drift car about a month ago (mst rmx 2.0) just trying to learn what I need to start upgrading first!
I'm glad that you make these sort of drift related videos. I'll be building an MST soon and you are just a wealth of knowledge to get me going. Its crazy how different setting up a drift car is from anything else that i have raced or bashed.
Inspired by your videos and have just ordered first RC drift car MST RMX kit this week. Found a body shell and paint and the relevant starter pack of RC tools to get into the hobby. Keep it up Troy
Troy, for the front try to find same wire diameter with more turns than the ones you were wearing. Even half of turn more will give the results you seek for your front end...
I know this is an older video but... The softest one (iirc) have the product number ending in 009FS and they're not R-tune, the new R-tune stuff is basically the same as the older stuff but stiffer all round. As for the orientation of the spring, I dont know why but there is a different, its just some reve-d black magic, just trust them lol. I think on the front you'd benefit from the reve-d +6mm spring cups. I've also found on the front the pre load is finicky, I've ended up adjusting the pre load collar half a turn at a time to get it spot on. You'll see a larger benefit with some better shocks, OD or axon, I was sceptical at first but going from Yoko big bores to axon revo ii was a massive difference.
I guess that the contact line down on the reveD front spring act as a pivot point for the spring and allowing it to roll more. Thus creating higher grip
@@RoadsideRC the tighter coils top or bottom bud. Depends on how far it moves before it stiffens up. Eg tight coil bottom means it’ll travel reasonably easily until it’s compressed to the tighter coil. Basically like a 2 stage spring.
In terms of the spring.. Maybe the tighter wrapped end has more initial resistance on that end and though the spring is squished from both sides, the initial impact force always comes from below.
The softest front I’ve tried from ReveD is the RD-006F 2WS. I have both the hard (red) and soft (blue) R-tune versions and feel that they’re too stiff.
I like this - have an MST RMX 2.5 myself and currently trying to get the front to lift on throttle but having no luck despite using TR56 shocks with good springs I love the way my car drives but it barely lifts the front on throttle One thing I've found along my time researching this is motor orientation does it effect it...
Hi there! Shock and spring length is a key factor here. Those TR56 are shorter than the TR60, and use a shorter spring. Using the longest spring really help travel.
Also - I have NOT found that motor rotation has an impact. In fact, on this exact RDS, I have run the motor both directions and had good suspension results both times.
@@RoadsideRC Great to hear - I have my chassis static quite high off the ground I'd say and it might squat 2mm or so when I initiate throttle but other than that not much at all I have clearanced my chassis for allowing alot of droop too I think I'm looking into it too much, and if my chassis is fast and controllable I shouldn't complain haha, but I think it looks cool when a chassis has alot of squat on throttle
the upward movement of the front end does not actually shift more weight to the back. A spring is just a function on a graph mathematically with x axis as distance compressed and y axis as force. The same force applied to a more progressive spring (higher gradient) and a softer spring (lower gradient) will move the front end up to different positions, but that does not mean the softer spring is pushing the suspension any more than the stiffer one
The point of the reved front spring is to make the suspension more progressive when angling the shocks in is not possible due to front wheel clearance. What it does is make the front end more 'planted' to the ground with weight shift from one side to the other happening faster when transitioning/initiating. As with the upside down spring mounting, its another Reved gimmick meant to sell ppl on the idea that their products make them know what theyre doing When u lifted the nose up to the highest it can go, it did not drop down after you let go. Check the arms for any resistance, and set the rebound for the front shocks so that it wants to come back down. Also the grip level is very different from concrete to carpet, and call for very different setups and FDR especially. A typical carpet tune is around FDR 8 while a low grip polished concrete is around 13. Keep the videos coming, wanna see more!
Thanks for the feedback. I am trying to translate my old 1:1 experience to RC. Seems some things translate, some don't. Everywhere you look, there is conflicting information, so I am trying to find the right solution with my own testing.
Hi there how are you I want to change my sakura d5 shocks for something else but the problem is that here in Czech Republic and around is nothing in stores. What I can find is Yeah Racing DSG-0055OR 55mm for touring cars do you thing it ll be ok for a drift car or just better than factory set of shocks? Thank you and take care
The sping flip thing from reved is goofy and just a plain lie. A spring dosent care how its orientiert it only has active and reactive force who act from both ends so it dosend matter
I believe that in a 1:1 application the dual rate springs are advantageous for preventing/controlling body roll. But overall I’m pretty sure the idea is that the tighter wound coils always mount towards the top side.
This will allow a soft feel when the springs are resting at ride height or under a small load like on a low grip surface, however when you need the rigidity to keep from bottoming out over a bump the tighter wound coils near the top will push back the more the shock is compressed. Keeping a more consistent feel over all.
PSA: I’m not sure how much any of that actually matters on 1/10 scale, if it does make a difference I would say that’s pretty cool!
Thanks for the feedback.
Fliping the spring has no effect at all. The dual rate springs can either be a fancy one pice or split in to 2 springs to make it cheaper. A spring only knows that there is a force applied, from ware its applied doesent matter
Great video bud. We don't get much of the drift tuning content these days. Your video provides fantastic info. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the kind words!
From what I can tell reading along many websites in regards of those and other springs, by placing them one or the other way, you essentially change the center of gravity.
The tighter part of the spring is stiffer and therefore acts almost as a solid, allowing mostly the lighter part of the spring do the work. I hope I explained that well enough ^^
Your two paragraphs are independent - and that is true.
Yes, placing the heavier part of the spring on the bottom will have a SMALL impact on cog.
Yes - a progressive rate spring will allow the lighter portion to compress first.
@@RoadsideRC Exactly :D
btw: I finally have all my parts together and started to place orders. Mostly thx to your videos I managed to find my way through this wilderness of RC drifting components XD From the bottom of my heart, Thank you!!
@@autofctrl Glad to help! Feel free to ask more questions as you have them!
Drift content = win! 🤪🤘🏻🤙🏻
Thank you!
Great job on the video! I always finish your videos learning something new every time. I'm located in central Illinois and just got my first rc drift car about a month ago (mst rmx 2.0) just trying to learn what I need to start upgrading first!
Awesome! Glad I could help at least some!
I'm glad that you make these sort of drift related videos. I'll be building an MST soon and you are just a wealth of knowledge to get me going. Its crazy how different setting up a drift car is from anything else that i have raced or bashed.
Yes! Drift is truly something different!
Inspired by your videos and have just ordered first RC drift car MST RMX kit this week. Found a body shell and paint and the relevant starter pack of RC tools to get into the hobby. Keep it up Troy
Glad you are getting into it!
Good luck!
This was very informative and I appreciate you taking time to share the details of the process you go through
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the nice comment.
Yer good video didn’t see drift cars was such a lot of fin tune in to set um up 👍👍
RWD drift cars are literally the most detailed, setup-oriented rc that I have ever driven.
Troy, for the front try to find same wire diameter with more turns than the ones you were wearing. Even half of turn more will give the results you seek for your front end...
Yeah troy. VERY helpful for us rookie drifters. Thanks for sharing bud. Thumbs up of course.. :)
Thanks!
Love the video also completely off topic I love the 71 chevelle road sign
It is cool., I agree!
I know this is an older video but... The softest one (iirc) have the product number ending in 009FS and they're not R-tune, the new R-tune stuff is basically the same as the older stuff but stiffer all round. As for the orientation of the spring, I dont know why but there is a different, its just some reve-d black magic, just trust them lol. I think on the front you'd benefit from the reve-d +6mm spring cups. I've also found on the front the pre load is finicky, I've ended up adjusting the pre load collar half a turn at a time to get it spot on. You'll see a larger benefit with some better shocks, OD or axon, I was sceptical at first but going from Yoko big bores to axon revo ii was a massive difference.
Thanks for the feedback!
I guess that the contact line down on the reveD front spring act as a pivot point for the spring and allowing it to roll more. Thus creating higher grip
Interesting theory!
Your reviews are great! Thanks😎
Thank you!
love your drift project bro
Thanks!
It makes a huge difference Same with crawler springs I have the same as those
What makes a huge difference?
@@RoadsideRC the tighter coils top or bottom bud. Depends on how far it moves before it stiffens up. Eg tight coil bottom means it’ll travel reasonably easily until it’s compressed to the tighter coil. Basically like a 2 stage spring.
@@OldeSchoolRcUk Yeah - but a 2-stage spring doesn't care what orientation it is in...
I still call shenanigans!
In terms of the spring.. Maybe the tighter wrapped end has more initial resistance on that end and though the spring is squished from both sides, the initial impact force always comes from below.
Yeah...I took a whole class in college on suspension design. Orientation never came in to the conversation.
its a good upgrade mate
*always full watch👀Au👍left a like*
Thank you!
I know this may be 9 months since uploaded, but believe me, it does make a difference with the spring coil up or down
Interesting - please tell me how.
Bro I'm surprised you found a set of revD springs!!! There sold out everywhere!!
They do tend to come and go for sure!
good stuff bud
Thanks!
The softest front I’ve tried from ReveD is the RD-006F 2WS. I have both the hard (red) and soft (blue) R-tune versions and feel that they’re too stiff.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate that.
I’m using the hard spring for the front it work very well
Interesting. You get movement with it? As you saw, hard spring didn't have any movement, just sat at the top of the travel.
I too am using the hard front spring from reve d and i get lots of droop and down travel on my zx
I like this - have an MST RMX 2.5 myself and currently trying to get the front to lift on throttle but having no luck despite using TR56 shocks with good springs
I love the way my car drives but it barely lifts the front on throttle
One thing I've found along my time researching this is motor orientation does it effect it...
Hi there! Shock and spring length is a key factor here. Those TR56 are shorter than the TR60, and use a shorter spring. Using the longest spring really help travel.
Also - I have NOT found that motor rotation has an impact.
In fact, on this exact RDS, I have run the motor both directions and had good suspension results both times.
@@RoadsideRC Great to hear - I have my chassis static quite high off the ground I'd say and it might squat 2mm or so when I initiate throttle but other than that not much at all
I have clearanced my chassis for allowing alot of droop too
I think I'm looking into it too much, and if my chassis is fast and controllable I shouldn't complain haha, but I think it looks cool when a chassis has alot of squat on throttle
You got the reve d 2ws "r-tune" front springs those are stiffer than the regular 2ws soft.
Thanks!
Do a video on servos to see if they make a different, and if so, how much of a difference.
I have done videos on the ReveD, and about to release one on the AGFRC servo. Stay tuned!
If the front spring too soft it will jor able to bounce up easily cos too soft it will tend to stay down and the front will be lazy
That is why the pre-load helps.
the upward movement of the front end does not actually shift more weight to the back. A spring is just a function on a graph mathematically with x axis as distance compressed and y axis as force. The same force applied to a more progressive spring (higher gradient) and a softer spring (lower gradient) will move the front end up to different positions, but that does not mean the softer spring is pushing the suspension any more than the stiffer one
The point of the reved front spring is to make the suspension more progressive when angling the shocks in is not possible due to front wheel clearance. What it does is make the front end more 'planted' to the ground with weight shift from one side to the other happening faster when transitioning/initiating. As with the upside down spring mounting, its another Reved gimmick meant to sell ppl on the idea that their products make them know what theyre doing
When u lifted the nose up to the highest it can go, it did not drop down after you let go. Check the arms for any resistance, and set the rebound for the front shocks so that it wants to come back down. Also the grip level is very different from concrete to carpet, and call for very different setups and FDR especially. A typical carpet tune is around FDR 8 while a low grip polished concrete is around 13.
Keep the videos coming, wanna see more!
Thanks for the feedback.
I am trying to translate my old 1:1 experience to RC. Seems some things translate, some don't.
Everywhere you look, there is conflicting information, so I am trying to find the right solution with my own testing.
Hi there how are you I want to change my sakura d5 shocks for something else but the problem is that here in Czech Republic and around is nothing in stores. What I can find is Yeah Racing
DSG-0055OR 55mm for touring cars do you thing it ll be ok for a drift car or just better than factory set of shocks? Thank you and take care
Honestly - the stock Sakura shocks are pretty good. I finally upgraded mine to the improved 3Racing shocks, but they did really well.
Thank you very much for your information for the future Im thinking about this shocks MST TDA Aluminium Drift Damper@@RoadsideRC
out of curiosity. what controller are you using?
Futaba 4PV
The spring defiantly matters were the pig tail ends up or down
It’s the same with big cars also
Can you explain to me how?
In my 1-1 car, it is because of how the spring seats into the perch. That is not what is going on here
Try putting the rear ReveD spring to the front?
I might!
Try the mst super soft they are true to the name
Thanks!
The sping flip thing from reved is goofy and just a plain lie. A spring dosent care how its orientiert it only has active and reactive force who act from both ends so it dosend matter
100% agree!!!
Ur shock too long
Why?