Sir, with all due respect, you are NOT some little old random man. You are a genius. Thank you ever so kindly for your inspiring contribution. You have just solved my problem Much appreciated. Five stars, two thumbs up and a very grateful high-five!
Wow! Class! I can see with my own eyes that a lot of work and desire was invested in the construction. The kayak is full of stuffing. Congratulations! Hello from RUS.✌
Thanks! And cool! i think its the best mod i have done to my kayak. I have zero worried about flipping. In fact i know for a fact ill fall out before it flips lol.
Thanks! i used steel because its what i had to work with and the tools to weld it. I would had prefered alum. Iam about to rework the outriggers and bracket
I bought Kayak like yours under the name: “Ozark Trails Pro Angler 12” ... Same Manufacturer... when kayak heats up the seat can fall unexpectedly from high position to low position... Just Stay Seated and Calm... Ha! YEE HAW! “GROUND FLOOR… “ S _ I T “…
Yep, that was one of the first things i corrected when i got this yak. Sadly i think after 4 years its on its last leg. Its been a great yak, but it has been used and abused for 4 years.
Really like your stabilizer setup. Can you take them off pretty easy? I'm in sw MO and would like something for my pelican sit in, so that I could lake fish withhout worrying about wakes from boats tipping me. I bought some boat bumpers, but haven't tried to install them.
Thanks! I no longer use these on this kayak, i made some foam and glass ones. I moved these to my sons 10 foot pelican catch 100 kayak. When i did so i made the mounts so that they can ether be folded up over the kayak or completely removed with just 4 slip in pins. Sadly i dont have any videos of it. But i may go and make one this week.
Nice Presentation… I have the 2019 Walmart “Ozark Trails Pro Angler 12” … I catch your “DIY” before when you added PFD…Amen. 😎🇺🇸❤️🙏 Dealing with seat issue and adding “Minn Kota” 30# Thrust... Eventually rear mount but first side-mount. I lost a foot peg and Sun Dolphin and WalMart abandoned Service and Parts. For $20 +/- Amazon had pair of foot pegs and new tracks…! When I do rear mount I will have foot peg steering. I am doing a “PWM” too! Your creative build is the way to go…
Did you end up having to reinforce the contact points on the kayak? I bought an old cheap kayak with outriggers drilled on by the original owner. Its starting to stress the plastic around the installation points. Im in the process of redoing the outriggers and plan on adding an electrical conduit frame around the edge to distribute the stress from the outriggers around the entire kayak. Im probably going to copycat your set up without the fiberglass due to my lack of skill with resin. Big big big props to your engineering. You got a place in east Tampa/Lakeland if you want to hit the flats or some bass fishin
No, but because i already had done so when i installed them. The front contact points are where the front rod holders where. I removed them and put some 1/2 hdpe board over the hole. then mounted to that. Th bck supports are attached to the seat base.
Bigger would be better@ But ONLY if you can find it i the sewer and drain pipe type of pvc. Its thin wall and doesnt way much. The typical sch 40 even in 4 inch is way to heavy
Hope it all turns out good for you, I get my steel these days from a local contractor supply company. The build i did for my sons i downscaled the steel tubing to 3/4in. Locally i can get a 24 foot stick of 3/4 for 22 bucks.
@@NiteWolfeFishing i have 3D printers and will print rod holders similar to those you have attached to your outrigger. I also printed taller seat riser blocks that raise the seat 2 and a half inches. I do a ram ball mount on the printers too. I have a video on my channel of those items, if you're interested.
I dont have any video of how i did it and it will be a while before i make another set. But ill try to explain the best i can. I started by heating about 1.5 feet of the end all around. Then i used boards and clamps to flatten it. Then i marked out the curve with a marker. I cut along that mark with a saw. After that i used 2 peices of wood cut at the same cure but reversed. I clamped these on to the pvc curves about .5 inches in. This was to hold and seal the curve shut during the next step. I capped the other end and put a air fitting in. Then i once again heated the end with the curve till it was soft. I then turned on the compressor and slowly dialed up the air pressure. This took the flat out and gave it back the roundness except where it was clamped shut. Work slowly so you dont over inflate and blow it out. Once its the shape you want cut the air and let it cool. I then used a fiberglass repair kit from walmart to completely glass the ends (after taking the wood off). The kit was cheap and was just enough to glass about 1 foot or so of each end. To this day they still have not leaked. Put the air fitting hole on the cap at the bottom. You can later buy a boat plug ( i used a .5 in hole) to fill it and it gives you a place to check for leaks and drain if needed. Which you will need to some times. I have had water in mine even when i have not used it. Pretty sure its condensate, so iam glad i havea drain hole. I hope that helps
@@NiteWolfeFishing Yes ..... wow.... ! That info was very helpful and thank you for taking the time to share that . I just bought a registered canoe and planning on putting a motor and a backup sail on it and will required some outriggers for stability . I love your cheap and ingenuity design very much using pvc . You are a genius 👏 . Thank you
what would you like to know? Its a haswing 65# brushless. Steering and speed control are by tiller. I have a 2 way system for tilt and trim. A custom made skid plate on the bottom to keep the prop out of the gravel. If the kayak will float i can motor it that shallow. Even if the bottom of the kayak is bumping along the bottom i can still motor. In the shallows i run it withthe prop half or more out ofthe water.
For the outriggers it was the thin white sewer and drain 4in pvc. Its the very thin wall pipe. Stay tuned. I liked these outriggers so much that iam going to build some 6"x6"x 10' foam covered fiberglassed ones. The stability gained is just insane. It can not be flipped you end up falling out before the yak will flip.
Thanks, I used a heat gun to flatten the front end. Then i marked out a semi circle on the flat. I then put pop rivers and 1/2 apart 1/2 inch on the inside of the mark. I then cut out the mark. Next i capped the back end and put ina air connection. I pressurized the pipe and started heating the now rounded but flat from. As the pipe heated up the air pressure (about 10psi) allows the pipe to reshape itself and the pop rivets held the nose closed. Once it all cooled down i removed the pop rivets and used fiberglass to seal the nose up.
@@NiteWolfeFishing many thx for the instructions.. Next time you make another one, pls make a video of it.. I have a feeling that there are tons of viewers who need it 🙂👍
@@rudiblackrahmadi My newest set i used foam and fiberrglass instead of pvc. I would do pvc again if i could find affordable thin wall in 6 or 8 inch. These worked fine, But i wanted a little more buoyancy. So i went with 6x6 square outriggers when i remade them. These 4in pvc ones are now on my sons catch 100 classic.
@@NiteWolfeFishing I've been watching videos regarding this, and it seems that ppl have their own treatment before applying resin. How did you make a connection between the outrigger n the kayak? Did you make a video of making it? Many thx n have fun..
@@rudiblackrahmadi No build videos if them. There are suare tubes that run from one outrigger to the other. Center the kayak then drill in and bolt to kayak (made sure i had access to the inside of the hull in the location. The back tube was welded to a flat bar that was inplace to support the stock seat. A LOT has changed to my rig since this video lol. I am constantly rethinking and reworking all of it.
They are from grainger. 10 foot 1/2 solid fiberglass rods. about 25 bucks each. You have to coat them because its raw fiberglass and will get under your skin if you dont. I used fiberglass epoxy to coat mine. The most recent poles i have made for a friend i used this new pink rebar from home depot that is only 7 bucks for a 1/2 10 foot rod. They are a ugly pink and look coated. But i had left over epoxy and some tan tint and just coated his anyways to to be sure he didnt get fibers in his hand. Put pvc T for handles on one end.
Yes, due to the way i have it set up. They ride about 1/2 underwater so that very much do add to the vessels displacement. Which means more cap. I did the math once, i think it was about 160 each pounds of carry cap.
I am looking for about four product place lace me a message. When I post this, I am looking for more information on this. I am want to know how you build that and more information on this I wonder if you had plans I want to put one on a kayak cuz I do a lot of catfishes and I want to get into a lake and get back where I could just catfish please get back to me as soon as possible take care of yourself and be safe out there I hope I hear back from you soon
Feels like it some times lol. Was a fathers day gift 4 years or so ago. I sold the wolfeyak after i got it. Someone from youtube bought it. i still have the dakyak (which my son seldom fishes anymore) which i hope to do a makeover on soon and will rename it the wolfeyak 3.0
Iam not sure how to on youtube. If you have facebook you can contact me at mark (nitewolfe) Alexander. Same profile pic as here. Or email me at nitewolfetx@yahoo.com
Sir, with all due respect, you are NOT some little old random man. You are a genius. Thank you ever so kindly for your inspiring contribution. You have just solved my problem Much appreciated. Five stars, two thumbs up and a very grateful high-five!
This is exactly what I had envisioned for my kayak stabilizer. Thank you for the video
Well done, great work, enjoy your fishing safely.
thanks
I love that set up! Awesome job dude!
Thanks!
One of the best pro- vessels I saw for a very long time. Congrats 👏
thanks, i have put a lot of work into it.
Wow! Class! I can see with my own eyes that a lot of work and desire was invested in the construction. The kayak is full of stuffing. Congratulations! Hello from RUS.✌
Thank you!!! Its always a work in progress lol.
And hello from the USA
I know what I'm doing this weekend lol. I had an idea in my head and you helped me out with the hose clamp bracket that's perfect for what I'm doing.
Wow, very clever way in making the platoon w/ 4" pvc & making the mount to the kayak. Love the trolling motor. Thx 4 sharing on Utube.
thank you
Man I love this rig. I want to do something similar to my kayak. Thanks for sharing! 👍🏻👍🏻
thanks
Brilliant! Thanks so much for sharing your time snd ideas with us.
thanks and welcome.
Thank you for sharing your upgrade!
your welcome. ill be doing a new video soon. I have changed a lot since this one. including new diy outriggers.
I love so much your perfect job you just gave me a million dollar idea.Thank you very much.
Thanks! hope it works out for you
Nice job and informative video. I really like the way you did the front ends.
thanks
honestly this is probably the best diy out rigger kit I've seen probably going to copy it
Thanks!
And cool! i think its the best mod i have done to my kayak. I have zero worried about flipping.
In fact i know for a fact ill fall out before it flips lol.
Great set up. Thanks for the video .
thanks
Thank. You for you time and ideas sir.
your welcome
Holy custom job. Looks awesome!
Thanks!!!
That's a smart setup, I don't know if I would want the weight of steel but definitely giving me some good ideas for my setup. Thanks!
Thanks! i used steel because its what i had to work with and the tools to weld it. I would had prefered alum.
Iam about to rework the outriggers and bracket
Great job man. Very creative
thanks
Finally someone who knows what they doing!!! Thank you for the video, I'm going to copycat this one.👍
Thanks!
Absolutely incredible
Thanks
I bought Kayak like yours under
the name: “Ozark Trails Pro Angler 12” ... Same Manufacturer... when kayak heats up the seat can fall unexpectedly from high position to low position... Just Stay Seated and Calm... Ha! YEE HAW! “GROUND FLOOR…
“ S _ I T “…
Yep, that was one of the first things i corrected when i got this yak.
Sadly i think after 4 years its on its last leg.
Its been a great yak, but it has been used and abused for 4 years.
Really like your stabilizer setup. Can you take them off pretty easy? I'm in sw MO and would like something for my pelican sit in, so that I could lake fish withhout worrying about wakes from boats tipping me. I bought some boat bumpers, but haven't tried to install them.
Thanks! I no longer use these on this kayak, i made some foam and glass ones.
I moved these to my sons 10 foot pelican catch 100 kayak.
When i did so i made the mounts so that they can ether be folded up over the kayak or completely removed with just 4 slip in pins.
Sadly i dont have any videos of it.
But i may go and make one this week.
thanks for sharing
Really awesome
thanks
Nice Presentation… I have the 2019 Walmart “Ozark Trails Pro Angler 12” … I catch your “DIY” before when you added PFD…Amen.
😎🇺🇸❤️🙏
Dealing with seat issue and adding “Minn Kota” 30# Thrust... Eventually rear mount but first side-mount. I lost a foot peg and Sun Dolphin and WalMart abandoned Service and Parts. For
$20 +/- Amazon had pair of foot pegs and new tracks…! When I do rear mount I will have foot peg steering. I am doing a “PWM” too! Your creative build is the way to go…
Thanks! i look forward to seeing your build!
Did you end up having to reinforce the contact points on the kayak? I bought an old cheap kayak with outriggers drilled on by the original owner. Its starting to stress the plastic around the installation points. Im in the process of redoing the outriggers and plan on adding an electrical conduit frame around the edge to distribute the stress from the outriggers around the entire kayak. Im probably going to copycat your set up without the fiberglass due to my lack of skill with resin.
Big big big props to your engineering. You got a place in east Tampa/Lakeland if you want to hit the flats or some bass fishin
No, but because i already had done so when i installed them.
The front contact points are where the front rod holders where. I removed them and put some 1/2 hdpe board over the hole. then mounted to that.
Th bck supports are attached to the seat base.
Great video, thank you
Glad you liked it!
I need a video on that seat setup!
Wish i had one.
Thank you for the idea I'm a big guy so I hope it will work for me I have a 128T
should work for any kayak and your welcome!
Wow great job!! 👍.. would make mine more stable on the salt water. Do fish ever get tangled between the yak and the outriggers?
Thanks and nope never.
Looks great
thanks
I love it .just that you said i am going to go out and improve the stability without just jumping on amazon.
Thanks! it was so easy and such a massive improvement, i cant see me every not having outriggers on my kayaks again
great video mate just followed may you do another video on the water please.
Thanks! there are a few in my video list.
Nice work
thanks
Excellent
thanks
I like your idea wondering if it would work on a Jon Boat the 4in or should I use this 6in jon boat is very unstable
Bigger would be better@ But ONLY if you can find it i the sewer and drain pipe type of pvc.
Its thin wall and doesnt way much. The typical sch 40 even in 4 inch is way to heavy
I have this same kayak and am going to do the outriggers today, if I can get the materials. Steel is hard to find right now where I live.
Hope it all turns out good for you, I get my steel these days from a local contractor supply company. The build i did for my sons i downscaled the steel tubing to 3/4in. Locally i can get a 24 foot stick of 3/4 for 22 bucks.
@@NiteWolfeFishing i have 3D printers and will print rod holders similar to those you have attached to your outrigger. I also printed taller seat riser blocks that raise the seat 2 and a half inches. I do a ram ball mount on the printers too. I have a video on my channel of those items, if you're interested.
@@59KYHighlander I so wished i had a 3d printer. So many things i could do with one!
Awesome video !
I don't see a video on how you form the pvc tubing for that set up yet ?
Can you please do one ?
THANKS
I dont have any video of how i did it and it will be a while before i make another set.
But ill try to explain the best i can.
I started by heating about 1.5 feet of the end all around.
Then i used boards and clamps to flatten it.
Then i marked out the curve with a marker.
I cut along that mark with a saw.
After that i used 2 peices of wood cut at the same cure but reversed.
I clamped these on to the pvc curves about .5 inches in.
This was to hold and seal the curve shut during the next step.
I capped the other end and put a air fitting in.
Then i once again heated the end with the curve till it was soft.
I then turned on the compressor and slowly dialed up the air pressure.
This took the flat out and gave it back the roundness except where it was clamped shut.
Work slowly so you dont over inflate and blow it out. Once its the shape you want cut the air and let it cool.
I then used a fiberglass repair kit from walmart to completely glass the ends (after taking the wood off).
The kit was cheap and was just enough to glass about 1 foot or so of each end.
To this day they still have not leaked.
Put the air fitting hole on the cap at the bottom.
You can later buy a boat plug ( i used a .5 in hole) to fill it and it gives you a place to check for leaks and drain if needed.
Which you will need to some times.
I have had water in mine even when i have not used it. Pretty sure its condensate, so iam glad i havea drain hole.
I hope that helps
@@NiteWolfeFishing
Yes ..... wow.... ! That info was very helpful and thank you for taking the time to share that .
I just bought a registered canoe and planning on putting a motor and a backup sail on it and will required some outriggers for stability . I love your cheap and ingenuity design very much using pvc . You are a genius 👏 . Thank you
@@joeblowjohnny2297 Thanks and your welcome!
i just love diy and living on ssd means i have to be as thrifty as i can be.
I need to know more about the trolling motor setup
what would you like to know?
Its a haswing 65# brushless.
Steering and speed control are by tiller.
I have a 2 way system for tilt and trim.
A custom made skid plate on the bottom to keep the prop out of the gravel.
If the kayak will float i can motor it that shallow.
Even if the bottom of the kayak is bumping along the bottom i can still motor.
In the shallows i run it withthe prop half or more out ofthe water.
Nice Dude.
thanks
beatifull
thanks!
Did you use the black pvc or the thin white coated pvc used more for French drains?
For the outriggers it was the thin white sewer and drain 4in pvc.
Its the very thin wall pipe.
Stay tuned.
I liked these outriggers so much that iam going to build some 6"x6"x 10' foam covered fiberglassed ones.
The stability gained is just insane. It can not be flipped you end up falling out before the yak will flip.
@@NiteWolfeFishing the pipe I got is 4” but has a white coating on it but black on the inside.
@@inalaska1709 this is what i used.
www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-4-in-x-10-ft-PVC-D2729-Sewer-and-Drain-Pipe-1610/202280933
@@NiteWolfeFishing sadly they don’t sell that type of pipe in Alaska
@@inalaska1709 intereasting that they dont. Maybe its diue to operating temps.
i wonder if you can share how did you shape the noose of the outriggers... many thx..
Thanks, I used a heat gun to flatten the front end.
Then i marked out a semi circle on the flat.
I then put pop rivers and 1/2 apart 1/2 inch on the inside of the mark.
I then cut out the mark.
Next i capped the back end and put ina air connection. I pressurized the pipe and started heating the now rounded but flat from.
As the pipe heated up the air pressure (about 10psi) allows the pipe to reshape itself and the pop rivets held the nose closed.
Once it all cooled down i removed the pop rivets and used fiberglass to seal the nose up.
@@NiteWolfeFishing many thx for the instructions.. Next time you make another one, pls make a video of it.. I have a feeling that there are tons of viewers who need it 🙂👍
@@rudiblackrahmadi My newest set i used foam and fiberrglass instead of pvc.
I would do pvc again if i could find affordable thin wall in 6 or 8 inch.
These worked fine, But i wanted a little more buoyancy. So i went with 6x6 square outriggers when i remade them.
These 4in pvc ones are now on my sons catch 100 classic.
@@NiteWolfeFishing I've been watching videos regarding this, and it seems that ppl have their own treatment before applying resin.
How did you make a connection between the outrigger n the kayak?
Did you make a video of making it?
Many thx n have fun..
@@rudiblackrahmadi No build videos if them.
There are suare tubes that run from one outrigger to the other. Center the kayak then drill in and bolt to kayak (made sure i had access to the inside of the hull in the location.
The back tube was welded to a flat bar that was inplace to support the stock seat.
A LOT has changed to my rig since this video lol.
I am constantly rethinking and reworking all of it.
Gooddddd
thanks
What are you using for a shakeout pole?
They are from grainger. 10 foot 1/2 solid fiberglass rods. about 25 bucks each. You have to coat them because its raw fiberglass and will get under your skin if you dont. I used fiberglass epoxy to coat mine.
The most recent poles i have made for a friend i used this new pink rebar from home depot that is only 7 bucks for a 1/2 10 foot rod.
They are a ugly pink and look coated. But i had left over epoxy and some tan tint and just coated his anyways to to be sure he didnt get fibers in his hand.
Put pvc T for handles on one end.
@@NiteWolfeFishing thanks, will try the rebar.
That's a heavy rig! Looks good though.
Thanks and its not as heavy as it looks lol. Was a lot heavier last year
How did you determine the height? Thanks
Of the outriggers? I put them where they would be half way on the water line.
Does this add to weight capacity?
Yes, due to the way i have it set up. They ride about 1/2 underwater so that very much do add to the vessels displacement. Which means more cap.
I did the math once, i think it was about 160 each pounds of carry cap.
Do you have a diy video showing how to build it yourself.
No, sorry about that.
It is pretty easy.
This set is now on my sons catch 100 mounted on swing up brackets for easy transport.
I am looking for about four product place lace me a message. When I post this, I am looking for more information on this.
I am want to know how you build that and more information on this I wonder if you had plans I want to put one on a kayak cuz I do a lot of catfishes and I want to get into a lake and get back where I could just catfish please get back to me as soon as possible take care of yourself and be safe out there I hope I hear back from you soon
what would you like to know?
A store bought boat??? Traitor! LOL
Feels like it some times lol.
Was a fathers day gift 4 years or so ago. I sold the wolfeyak after i got it.
Someone from youtube bought it.
i still have the dakyak (which my son seldom fishes anymore) which i hope to do a makeover on soon and will rename it the wolfeyak 3.0
Hey Man U need to private message you.
Iam not sure how to on youtube.
If you have facebook you can contact me at mark (nitewolfe) Alexander. Same profile pic as here.
Or email me at nitewolfetx@yahoo.com