This is the best video I’ve seen on this 1mz fe engines rear valve cover gasket not many people go in to depth as much as you did. After watching this a rookie mechanic can tackle this job no problem. You Can save a lot of money doing these jobs on your own.
very good video. it is VERY important to be GENTLE with the bolts on the valve cover. it is easy to overtighten them. at first do NOT use a ratchet, tighten them by hand, in a star pattern. starting in the middle. the TQ spec on the 1mzfe is 5.75 ft pounds. UNDER 6 POUNDS ! SIX ! also, apply black RTV on the head, on the longer sides of the cam shaft. and also on the camshaft gear side. you should see the factory sealant and where to reapply. when you are done with the job make sure the idle is normal and you don't have any vac leaks. double check all of the vac lines are reconnected.
Cleanest description of the process, with great voice explanation, and excellent video capture... Thank You so much... we all appreciate your talent and time put into this job
Thanks for this!!! Best video and simplest method I've seen for removing upper intake to gain access to that rear valve cover! Pretty much what I'd have expected, though other's I've watched, completely disconnected throttle body...🤦🏼♂️ Excellent job!
Best vid for speed and I'm thankful. A few things: torque for the cover bolts is 69 INCH lbs / 8nm. Two 5/16 washers on each bolt can help to get this torque. Might be why last one is leaking. Should do the half moon seals, as rtv degrades. Can knock carefully with a screwdriver and reapply rtv. Good idea to clean the inside of valve cover with brake cleaner. Inside top is where the oil goes and probably only chance to clean. Bent PCV == old revised design. Also meant to be good to clean the EGR and acis....
@@toronjanahera1143 factory supplied bolts are crush bolts. Eg one use. You can buy those or make your own by using the washers on the existing bolts. They add pressure, so you can torque them before they bottom out.
As a preventative, 1mzfe while i do the sparks plugs. Im planning on cleaning valve covers/throttle body. Anything else i should consider while everything is off? Im working on an estima so even less room to work on 😅@shadako2
I appreciate the close-ups of the fasteners. Shop manual calls for putting a little oil resistant RTV and the crevices on the cylinder head usually by the ends of the camshaft.
I had some pretty bad feelings about doing this because I have just completed the valve cover in the front and I need to now do the back. This video really helped me and your commentary was very refreshing and calming. Thank You!
No surprise here. I follow Danny Johnson from the New Edge world but the fact he can tackle any automotive repair AND Include great context while doing so is pure religion when it comes to his style.
thanx Danny this was a great confidence booster for me when you first look at the rear valve cover it looks really intimidating however after watching this vid it took the terror out of me to do this job... now I'm just waiting for the 1 time use of the valve cover bolts to arrive.....cover me I'm going in!! thanx Danny
Hey man, I only needed the intake plenum removal part of this video as I'm doing custom headers on my solara. Thanks for the informative video! It's the only one I could find!
Thanks man I just did this today and your video made for a huge help not as daunting as it seems I just had trouble moving around that wiring harness when removing the rear valve cover but other than that not too bad
I have used those non-OEM blue silicon gaskets and it lasted less than a year before it started to leak. I strongly recommend using OEM gasket from Toyota, if you do not want to hassle with this job twice.
@@marccrotty8447 No it was not. But I will never use those shiny blue silicon gaskets ever again regardless of brand. I see other youtube videos showing replacement of those blue ones only after one year as well so don't trust them. Use the black OEM ones to be safe.
Yes the spark plug oil seals are backward. Also I took off the egg valve down below and was a big help getting the valve cover back on. Also used some spray 3m adhesive to glue the back gasket on. Used a small plastic wedge to work the oil seals around the tubes so they wouldn’t tear after smearing a little oil on them. It’s a pain for sure.
Rear spark plugs can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. But as video states, good time to replace plugs with manifold removed. Much easier.
This is exactly what I was looking for man, I just bought a beater 99 Avalon w/ almost 300k miles smoking just like you said and goes away when warm. Looking forward to doing this this weekend while having this video right beside me. Thank you so much!
Make sure you also see the second video as it shows using a screw driver to go around the park plug holes on the gaskets when putting the valve cover back on 👍🏼
If you're gonna do this yourself, please save yourself time and use the black OEM Toyota gaskets and Toyota black RTV. Don't forget to remove and reseal the camshaft plugs "half moons"!
My 2002 Camry V6 has some sort of stability bar fastened to the manifold cover right behind the EGR valve, which made it very hard to get the screws in the back (it can be moved a little after detaching the attachment screw)
Thanks 🙏🏼 Not the Mustang content a lot like to see, but hopefully it helps someone. I don’t like the design to remove the intake manifold for plugs or gaskets 😀
The back side was a few hours figuring it out, would be faster following the video. The front was about 30 minutes. Watch the second video on the front side as well for a tip using a screw driver to circle around the spark plug new gaskets so the cover goes on easier 👍🏼
hello , first of all , more power to you and your channel. May I ask a question ? what is the torque to close the valve cover. did you have any leak after this changing of gasket? thanks.
This procedure had been done by the previous owner, so I cut the footage out on the spark plug grommets because I replaced them the same way he had and was told in the comments they were not correct. I lifted the tabs on the back side with a screwdriver and then put them in. I then closed the tabs back down. Sorry I can’t be of more help
I got the repair manual, it specifies at least 3 steps per bolt in a specific pattern, and adding sealant to the end turns of the gasket. Happens to be where mine started leaking first. Also those head bolts are TTY, one time use. Edit: I was wrong. I don’t know why it said that…..jeez
Question, do you need to depressurize the fuel line before doing this? I realize you worked around the coolant hoses so you didn’t need to drain, but what about fuel pressure?
I bought Felpro gaskets twice and for the life of me I cannot get the rear spark plug tube seals to insert. The fronts went on just fine but I cannot get the rear on. I've even tried hammering it in but they're literally just too big to fit. What do I do??
If the head gasket is actually blown from overheating, should I assume that the head is warped and will need to be resurfaced? Will I be able to tell just by looking at it?
Yes, I would have it taken to a machine shop. I’m not sure if it’s an iron block or aluminum, but it could also be warped and needed to be checked and corrected
I don't know if it was mentioned in comments, the critical part that was not covered is taking off those caps on the cover are very difficult to remove. I don't know if anyone else has had the same problem.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageHi Danny, do you know if there is any special tool made to remove those caps? It makes me nervous doing this job knowing that is what i have to contend with.
Word of advice, this is a big job (for a novice), please use the appropriate torque specs or you will have to do the job TWICE and you will leak oil everywhere..
The reason I ask is because i have check engine light on with codes 1135 1155 and i replaced the sensors but light is still on but noticed that ground is not connected on the back of the engine.
P1155, I've seen on some forums that that evcap canister solenoid can be bad from factory, I just ordered one today 2001 Camry le v6, 130k miles, the light came on around 65k miles, we replaced the o2 sensor and it came back, replaced gas cap, no change. Some people were saying change the whole canister, but other were saying just the solenoid where the plug goes into, it's under the rear in front of gas tank, held on by one tiny screw to the bracket. There are different ones so you'll want to look at yours before ordering, if you go that route, it's a cheap part to replace. Also the O2 will be grounded via the exhaust, you can always check with a multimeter, or test lamp.
Do you have to replace the intake plenum gasket, throttle body gasket and clean the inner throttle body and valve ? Also, should rtv sealant be reapplied ? Thnx - great video ! 👍🏼
Yea wondering this as well?? Suppose intake plenum gasket would be "if needed," but wondering about RTV at least in certain spots? Generally Toyota recommends use of some for VC gaskets where timing cover mates to head(s). At least my inline 4 1zz-fe called for this.. (obviously much more painless than this) wondering if they call for this for their v6s? Doing this for a friend's mom's car. Rear doesn't appear to be leaking, just front, but hell, they want em done! Should have grab spark plugs right away!
I figured that since I was there, I might as well replace them when I did this job. At this point my 98 Camry’s intake gasket and throttle body gasket were old and brittle. Theyre $15 for the two. You can also clean the throttle body without removing it by taking the throttle cable assembly off and bending the throttle body towards the air filter to clean the dirty side. Use some throttle body cleaner and toothbrush/rag to clean it up. And you can use dabs of oil resistant rtv in the corners of the valve cover gasket. Good luck!
It’s no good idea to use aftermarket gaskets like Felpro because the height is shorter than the original and the cross section configuration is also different. The Toyota gaskets are not expensive at all. In addition, do not reuse the cover bolts. Buy new bolts from Toyota. They are also cheap. Make sure to clean all corners, especially the lower left corner of bank 1, thoroughly and apply a dab of RTV at all corners. I have my mechanic did it for me but they did not clean the lower left corner and did not seal it properly and they used Felpro gaskets and reused the bolts. It continue to leak from day 1 as I found oil under my power steering pump. They said it was from leaking pump. WRONG!! And after 2 years my gaskets were leaking everywhere bad. A good job should last at least 10 years per my previous replacement. This time I ended up redoing it myself spending one and half days and using genuine Toyota gaskets and new Toyota bolts. My car, 1997 Camry V6, is now bone dry after more than a year. Leaking pump? No! Actually my original power steering pump never leaks. It is now bone dry not oily anymore. I did a much better job than my mechanic.
I went with felpro. If you do the spark plug gaskets I am told the previous owner put mine in backwards and so I replaced them as they did. I may cut that part out of the video, but be aware
This is the best video I’ve seen on this 1mz fe engines rear valve cover gasket not many people go in to depth as much as you did. After watching this a rookie mechanic can tackle this job no problem. You Can save a lot of money doing these jobs on your own.
very good video. it is VERY important to be GENTLE with the bolts on the valve cover. it is easy to overtighten them. at first do NOT use a ratchet, tighten them by hand, in a star pattern. starting in the middle. the TQ spec on the 1mzfe is 5.75 ft pounds. UNDER 6 POUNDS ! SIX ! also, apply black RTV on the head, on the longer sides of the cam shaft. and also on the camshaft gear side. you should see the factory sealant and where to reapply. when you are done with the job make sure the idle is normal and you don't have any vac leaks. double check all of the vac lines are reconnected.
It’s the most detailed step by step description of the processes I have seen, good job!
Cleanest description of the process, with great voice explanation, and excellent video capture... Thank You so much... we all appreciate your talent and time put into this job
Thank you. Please also see video 2 for more tips on the spark plug hole gaskets. It didn’t make it into video 1. 👍🏼
Thanks for this!!! Best video and simplest method I've seen for removing upper intake to gain access to that rear valve cover! Pretty much what I'd have expected, though other's I've watched, completely disconnected throttle body...🤦🏼♂️
Excellent job!
Did this via your video step by step how you did it, was very worried about losing my vehicle, your tips and tricks made it a breeze thanks so much!
Mainly when he covered the intake holes to prevent anything from falling in there!! and all torque specifications very clear .
Best vid for speed and I'm thankful. A few things: torque for the cover bolts is 69 INCH lbs / 8nm. Two 5/16 washers on each bolt can help to get this torque. Might be why last one is leaking. Should do the half moon seals, as rtv degrades. Can knock carefully with a screwdriver and reapply rtv. Good idea to clean the inside of valve cover with brake cleaner. Inside top is where the oil goes and probably only chance to clean. Bent PCV == old revised design. Also meant to be good to clean the EGR and acis....
Thank you, can you explain more about the 5/16 washers, wouldn't that shorten the screws, I'm not understanding
@@toronjanahera1143 factory supplied bolts are crush bolts. Eg one use. You can buy those or make your own by using the washers on the existing bolts. They add pressure, so you can torque them before they bottom out.
As a preventative, 1mzfe while i do the sparks plugs. Im planning on cleaning valve covers/throttle body. Anything else i should consider while everything is off? Im working on an estima so even less room to work on 😅@shadako2
I appreciate the close-ups of the fasteners.
Shop manual calls for putting a little oil resistant RTV and the crevices on the cylinder head usually by the ends of the camshaft.
Yep
I had some pretty bad feelings about doing this because I have just completed the valve cover in the front and I need to now do the back. This video really helped me and your commentary was very refreshing and calming. Thank You!
I hope so I’m a nervous wreck!
No surprise here. I follow Danny Johnson from the New Edge world but the fact he can tackle any automotive repair AND Include great context while doing so is pure religion when it comes to his style.
Thanks for the kind words. I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
By far the best explanation on CZcams.
thanx Danny this was a great confidence booster for me when you first look at the rear valve cover it looks really intimidating however after watching this vid it took the terror out of me to do this job... now I'm just waiting for the 1 time use of the valve cover bolts to arrive.....cover me I'm going in!! thanx Danny
Hey man, I only needed the intake plenum removal part of this video as I'm doing custom headers on my solara. Thanks for the informative video! It's the only one I could find!
This looks amazing, gonna try to use this as a reference for the knock Sensor circuit on my 2000 Avalon. Based on what I've seen they look identical
Thanks man I just did this today and your video made for a huge help not as daunting as it seems I just had trouble moving around that wiring harness when removing the rear valve cover but other than that not too bad
I have used those non-OEM blue silicon gaskets and it lasted less than a year before it started to leak. I strongly recommend using OEM gasket from Toyota, if you do not want to hassle with this job twice.
Tom. Were the blue gaskets you used made by FelPro? I have used them with good success.
@@marccrotty8447 No it was not. But I will never use those shiny blue silicon gaskets ever again regardless of brand. I see other youtube videos showing replacement of those blue ones only after one year as well so don't trust them. Use the black OEM ones to be safe.
@@tommason5689 Agree that OEM products are (nearly) always the best choice.
Thanks so much man! You helped me a lot I could get the job done ✅
Much appreciated it
Sweet video on how too you hit everything thank you 😊
Great step by step video.
Thanks for this video. You explained everything. now I can fix my car.
Watch video 2 as well. It shows a good tip around the spark plug holes with a screw driver when installing the cover again 👍🏼
I've got a fordyota too. My inline 4 camry was an easy gasket job. I feel for you bro.
I said “why can this be a 4 cly” when I saw it 😀
Thank you so much. This was a life saver
Yes the spark plug oil seals are backward. Also I took off the egg valve down below and was a big help getting the valve cover back on. Also used some spray 3m adhesive to glue the back gasket on. Used a small plastic wedge to work the oil seals around the tubes so they wouldn’t tear after smearing a little oil on them. It’s a pain for sure.
Thanks for making the video it did help me with this.
Yeah, must have been done that way from the previous owner. I’m glad you figured it out
Great video! Very helpful and easy to follow. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!! I am going to try on my Camry v6
Nice Toyota content... Coming from a Ford/Yota guy...
Amazing tutorial! Down to the tee! This is very helpful video. Thank you!
Some gasket maker on the ridge bumps can also be helpful where the factory used rtv
Nice video. I'm buying a 1998 Camry today and I need to replace that gasket.
It’s also a good idea to use some RTV on those end caps on each side
Rear spark plugs can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. But as video states, good time to replace plugs with manifold removed. Much easier.
I can do this. I can do this.
Thank you a million times for sharing this.
Fantastic video!!
This is exactly what I was looking for man, I just bought a beater 99 Avalon w/ almost 300k miles smoking just like you said and goes away when warm. Looking forward to doing this this weekend while having this video right beside me. Thank you so much!
Make sure you also see the second video as it shows using a screw driver to go around the park plug holes on the gaskets when putting the valve cover back on 👍🏼
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you so much!
I bought the same Avalon with the same problem.. 190k miles $400
You helped 100 %
If you're gonna do this yourself, please save yourself time and use the black OEM Toyota gaskets and Toyota black RTV. Don't forget to remove and reseal the camshaft plugs "half moons"!
My 2002 Camry V6 has some sort of stability bar fastened to the manifold cover right behind the EGR valve, which made it very hard to get the screws in the back (it can be moved a little after detaching the attachment screw)
Great video
Mainly when he covered the intake holes to prevent anything from falling in there!! and all torque specifications very clear
Tip if your having trouble getting the rear cover past the harness is to just take off the studs on the cover problem solved
Good video!
Thanks 🙏🏼 Not the Mustang content a lot like to see, but hopefully it helps someone. I don’t like the design to remove the intake manifold for plugs or gaskets 😀
One of the best videos I’ve seen for this. Need to do this on my 2000 es300 with 250k miles. Just curious, how long did it take you?
The back side was a few hours figuring it out, would be faster following the video. The front was about 30 minutes. Watch the second video on the front side as well for a tip using a screw driver to circle around the spark plug new gaskets so the cover goes on easier 👍🏼
Great information 👍🇨🇦
Make sure to see video 2 for more info on the spark plug hole gaskets
I lost that 14mm plenum bracket bolt. Have a part number so I can order it?
Recommend replacing the PCV Valve and grommet with valve cover off. The old brittle grommet always wants to break and drop into the head.
Tackling this soon along with knock sensors on my 02 V6, I had a completely rebuilt 01 V6 but I totaled it like a dummy 😢
Holy shit this is a lot more complicated than I thought, not like other gasket cover videos I saw, damn man, why v6 gotta be so damn extra.
hello , first of all , more power to you and your channel. May I ask a question ? what is the torque to close the valve cover. did you have any leak after this changing of gasket? thanks.
Great video! Would add maybe torque specs, and also curious if some permatex is needed where timing covers meet heads?
It doesn’t hurt to add a few dabs of permatex, especially on the sides and where it comes up on the rounded area
Can you show how you got the new plug seal rings into the valve cover?
This procedure had been done by the previous owner, so I cut the footage out on the spark plug grommets because I replaced them the same way he had and was told in the comments they were not correct. I lifted the tabs on the back side with a screwdriver and then put them in. I then closed the tabs back down. Sorry I can’t be of more help
Thanks.
Is this still the same for 2004?
I got the repair manual, it specifies at least 3 steps per bolt in a specific pattern, and adding sealant to the end turns of the gasket. Happens to be where mine started leaking first. Also those head bolts are TTY, one time use. Edit: I was wrong. I don’t know why it said that…..jeez
I have a 2000 Camry 270 thousand miles as my daily in Chicago winters lol
Question, do you need to depressurize the fuel line before doing this? I realize you worked around the coolant hoses so you didn’t need to drain, but what about fuel pressure?
There isn’t a need to depressurize the fuel system if you are leaving the fuel rail untouched.
plugs can be replaced without the removal of the intake. I have done it for my lexus es 300. It has the same toyota motor.
I bought Felpro gaskets twice and for the life of me I cannot get the rear spark plug tube seals to insert. The fronts went on just fine but I cannot get the rear on. I've even tried hammering it in but they're literally just too big to fit. What do I do??
apply some grease or silicone around the inner ring of the seal, that might help
Danny.. very nice video and explaining.. How you do your video? Smooth
I record it on my iPhone and put it into iMovie for a voiceover
Why does this engine have spark plugs (without coils) on the back three cylinders, but it has coil-on-plugs on the front three cylinders?
It almost seems they have one coil pack operate 2 cylinders to save money
You can remove the rear spark plugs without taking the intake manifold off. You just need to slide in a swivel extension then connect the ratchet.
If the head gasket is actually blown from overheating, should I assume that the head is warped and will need to be resurfaced? Will I be able to tell just by looking at it?
Yes, I would have it taken to a machine shop. I’m not sure if it’s an iron block or aluminum, but it could also be warped and needed to be checked and corrected
If the gasket is new, no need for additional sealant on the block?
I would add gasket maker on the arches on each side where the factory had it
Where you located need need work on my Toyota v6 camry
I don't know if it was mentioned in comments, the critical part that was not covered is taking off those caps on the cover are very difficult to remove. I don't know if anyone else has had the same problem.
I was doing a repair that had already been done before so I bet mine came right off for that reason. Sorry you had trouble with yours
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageHi Danny, do you know if there is any special tool made to remove those caps? It makes me nervous doing this job knowing that is what i have to contend with.
Word of advice, this is a big job (for a novice), please use the appropriate torque specs or you will have to do the job TWICE and you will leak oil everywhere..
The reason I ask is because i have check engine light on with codes 1135 1155 and i replaced the sensors but light is still on but noticed that ground is not connected on the back of the engine.
P1155, I've seen on some forums that that evcap canister solenoid can be bad from factory, I just ordered one today 2001 Camry le v6, 130k miles, the light came on around 65k miles, we replaced the o2 sensor and it came back, replaced gas cap, no change.
Some people were saying change the whole canister, but other were saying just the solenoid where the plug goes into, it's under the rear in front of gas tank, held on by one tiny screw to the bracket. There are different ones so you'll want to look at yours before ordering, if you go that route, it's a cheap part to replace. Also the O2 will be grounded via the exhaust, you can always check with a multimeter, or test lamp.
@@LifeBloodMarketing Thanks I did the scan and its 1155 1135. I think it is that ground that isnt attached and its not sending signal to the sensors.
@@LifeBloodMarketing It was the ground on the back not attached. no more check engine light
What can happen if you don’t remove the negative terminal on the battery?
It can short out other electrical components, even if the car is off
Do you have to replace the intake plenum gasket, throttle body gasket and clean the inner throttle body and valve ? Also, should rtv sealant be reapplied ? Thnx - great video ! 👍🏼
I wonder too
Yea wondering this as well?? Suppose intake plenum gasket would be "if needed," but wondering about RTV at least in certain spots? Generally Toyota recommends use of some for VC gaskets where timing cover mates to head(s). At least my inline 4 1zz-fe called for this.. (obviously much more painless than this) wondering if they call for this for their v6s? Doing this for a friend's mom's car. Rear doesn't appear to be leaking, just front, but hell, they want em done! Should have grab spark plugs right away!
no unless you damge them and use rtv in the corners of the valve cover gasket
I figured that since I was there, I might as well replace them when I did this job. At this point my 98 Camry’s intake gasket and throttle body gasket were old and brittle. Theyre $15 for the two. You can also clean the throttle body without removing it by taking the throttle cable assembly off and bending the throttle body towards the air filter to clean the dirty side. Use some throttle body cleaner and toothbrush/rag to clean it up.
And you can use dabs of oil resistant rtv in the corners of the valve cover gasket.
Good luck!
Yeah think im gonna pass on a 1mz, stupid engine placement and tilt smh. Nice detailed video though cheers
On Toyota's with Felpro, I've seen where tech support recomended the tube seals go the opposite way of factory. Very confusing.
It is confusing. I also replaced them as they were and I’m not sure if the previous owner put them in backwards or not
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you use rtv silicone when you put on the new gasket? I’ve seen that done on the 4 cylinder.
the tube seals are upside down in this video. take a look at "Tips for installing press-in-place valve cover gasket" by Fel-Pro Gaskets.
It’s no good idea to use aftermarket gaskets like Felpro because the height is shorter than the original and the cross section configuration is also different. The Toyota gaskets are not expensive at all. In addition, do not reuse the cover bolts. Buy new bolts from Toyota. They are also cheap. Make sure to clean all corners, especially the lower left corner of bank 1, thoroughly and apply a dab of RTV at all corners. I have my mechanic did it for me but they did not clean the lower left corner and did not seal it properly and they used Felpro gaskets and reused the bolts. It continue to leak from day 1 as I found oil under my power steering pump. They said it was from leaking pump. WRONG!! And after 2 years my gaskets were leaking everywhere bad. A good job should last at least 10 years per my previous replacement. This time I ended up redoing it myself spending one and half days and using genuine Toyota gaskets and new Toyota bolts. My car, 1997 Camry V6, is now bone dry after more than a year. Leaking pump? No! Actually my original power steering pump never leaks. It is now bone dry not oily anymore. I did a much better job than my mechanic.
What gasket you recommend ?
I went with felpro. If you do the spark plug gaskets I am told the previous owner put mine in backwards and so I replaced them as they did. I may cut that part out of the video, but be aware
Toyota
no gasket seaker needed anywhere?
You should apply a few dabs over the cap ridges on each side
I had to hammer the valve cover seals out
I’m getting the idea these were already replaced before I got to them
Probably not a bad idea to replace the PCV valve and grommet while you’re doing this.
I did it today
....Holly smoke is NOT that easy
Tc v6 is a pos for maintenance one of the WORST ones for long term ownership CRAP
Keep spreading the word, keep those prices down.
The design is so stupid in these model v6 Camrys one of the WORST to work on
Next improvement is without transmission dipstick ... what fun. Could ruin the tranny without exact amount of oil replacement.