How to Level, Set Z Offset, and Make an ABL Mesh, on an Stock Creality Ender 3 S1
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- čas přidán 8. 06. 2024
- @GreggAdventure will show you my Leveling, Z-Offset, and ABL setup, on an @Creality3D Ender 3 S1.
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We found this video extremely helpful. My 12 year old son was able to follow your instructions to properly level the bed and make his first print. You saved Christmas for us, thank you!
That makes me very happy. Love it! Do him one better, get him my entire course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
@@3DRundown theres a course!?!? dude, im there dude.
This is the best S1 levelling tutorial I've seen, this is FAR better than anything from creality.
Thanks so much! Happy to help. Please see the pinned comment. :)
Fully agree. Watched some 10 videos just on bed leveling and first layer, and had to search wide to finally get to this one and get some useful info on z offset.
Your video is the best I've seen hands down above all the rest out there on such a simple yet complicated/confusing subject - You take the time to explain and don't rush through the points so that one has time to absorb the information. THANK YOU so much for posting such a great tutorial! Look forward to other of your videos. :)
That means allot. Thanks so much
My guy....you deserve a medal for this video. You saved an 11 year olds surprised birthday gift.
That's awesome. Happy Birthday kiddo!!
Ive watched so many videos on how to level my printer. This video was the best so far! Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Outstanding, Thank you! The z-offset and the disable stretcher part is always the one I have the most trouble with and I was able to print the bunny out at -4.34 Z Offset. I can tell this is gonna be a hobby I'm gonna like once I'm more skilled enough.
Very well explained. I've watched like 20 of these and this is the first one I can make it through without going back. Thanks for the great pacing.
Thanks so much. I am very deliberate about that, so it's nice to hear.... :)
Thank you thank you thank you for this! I have been SO frustrated trying to figure this out and your video is the only helpful thing I found. I was honestly about to give up. Clear, detailed, perfect. This is how it should be done and you’re amazing!
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THANK YOU! Everyone else skips steps or glosses over important things. Following your video, straight through, just once, got my new S1 printing beautifully in about an hour! One of the best explanatory videos on the internet, on ANY topic! Subbed and thanks again!
Very welcome. I put great effort into doing just that, even though it's painfully tedious. Appreciate the kind words. :)
Awesome stuff! My 3 S1 arrived on Tuesday. It's my second 3D printer and an order of magnitude more complicated than the first. This is how teaching should be done.
Thanks so much. Really makes it worth it, to hear this... Consider supporting my full course at 3drundown.com
Hey, Thanks for making this honest, down to earth video. It answered all my questions! You da MAN!
This guide worked great thank you for this video it was very helpful!
The best video 👏🏻👏🏻 congrats really good explanation 👏🏻👏🏻
Just got my Ender 3 S1 as my first 3d printer and this video helped so much, got the plastic to stick to the bed and got a very good first print. Thank you so much for this video, really helped A LOT :)
Very welcome. Happy to have you!! #SuperThanks
Very helpful videos, thanks so much!
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A must-watch for any beginner.
Perfect video! Printing flawlessly with my new s1 after watching this video!!
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Dude - thank you so much for this video. Great explanation and tutorial. Auto "Leveling" alone wasn't getting the job done. This got it done. THANK YOU AGAIN!
My Pleasure. Happy to Help. Always Manually tram as close as possible first. 🤜🏼🤛🏼Please consider a Super Chat, or sponsoring me via Patreon, to help me continue shooting for this channel. Links on the Pinned Comment. 👍🏼✌🏼
Great, easy to follow instructions, cool method. Worked perfectly for me after several failed attempts at other methods. Liked and subbed
Awesome. Happy to get you going! Check me out on 3DRUNDOWN.COM
Thank you so much! I always found leveling the bed confusing and this really helped me out. You're awesome for doing this.
Epic. Makes my day to hear this. Please consider taking my full course, and leaving me a glowing review. Would mean allot to me: 3DRUNDOWN.COM. On UDEM: "3D RUNDOWN"
@@3DRundown Bought and watching now, pretty timely as I wanted to do some 3D prints for Christmas. Been struggling with 3D printing for a while and the way you teach really clicks with me. Thanks again, really appreciate it.
@@wjhamilton1984 Thanks so much! My CZcams videos, are lectures taken from my full Udemy course at 3DRUNDOWN.COM. Drop in and Kill It for Christmas!
I've had mine for a few days did 3 prints that were good,watched this and wow the difference in just knowing how to do this the right way my current print is looking so much better than I thought possible
Epic! Happy to help. #SuperThanks
Finally got my printer to work following this video! There are others out there but weren't specific to my printer - I needed this. Thanks!!
Epic. Happy to help! Consider my course at 3DRUNDOWN.COM
A good and very clear explanation - nice one.
Thanks so much! I try to be detailed and in ENGLISH.
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Thank you for this video. You took the time to explain everything in a very detailed way, you spoke clear and concise . Just what I was looking for, other videos were incomplete and unclear, many with just music and no explanation. Thank you also for staying focused on point, and not straying off subject like some others do and waste time. You the man!
I really dislike the YT style of video. Its more about getting attention, than proper execution. I hate trying to lear from someone that is wizzing past things, blasting music, and acting like a tool. My YT videos, are taken from my full course: 3drundown.com. You may like it. Thanks so much for the kind words. I'll be sure to continue working this way for my peeps!
Great tutorial and really helped me setup my new S1. thank you!!
Happy to help. Please consider learning with me on 3DRUNDOWN.COM (Udemy Course: 3D RUNDOWN)
Greetings from Turkey my friend!
You explained it better than our Turkish youtubers. I didn't understand what they were saying in my own language so well! you are perfect! thanks.
Greetings from NJ, USA! Thanks so much. Happy to help! Learn with me on my Udemy Course "3D Rundown"
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Just bought an Ender 3 S1 and used your method for leveling the Z-offset and first print turned out great. Thanks
Epic. Happy to help!
Thank you for the video, this made ALL the difference for me
Very welcome. :)
As always, excellent job!
🙏🏼
Thanks for making this video it solves all my problems 👍👍
Awesome. 🔥🔥
Great Tutorial.
Thank you!! It worked great
🤜🏼🤛🏼
Hey thanks for the video i just got a ender 3 s1 and this really helped alot thanks man
Awesome video, from Chaos to a perfect print. Very grateful.
Epic. Happy to help!
I absolutely loved the tip about tightening all of the wheels. Other guides talk about pressing down the plate, spinning until the wheel stops. Had mixed results.
But your technique is solid and consistent. I was impressed.
Thank god i found your video! i just set up my s1 and needed to level and your video is a perfect explanation step by step!
🤜🏼🤛🏼
Thank you for this video, saved me a lot of time.
Awesome. Happy to help!
Super helpful thank you so much
Happy to help. :)
This video was great. Thank you for making it!!!!
Welcome Nichole!
I'm so glad CZcams recommended this video to me. I've been trying to make my first print and I was getting it completely wrong. I will be following this video to a T and will come back to let you know how I did lol. I got this printer for my son he is 14 on the spectrum and I thought this would be a great way to get his creative juices going. Thank you so much for the step by step. Please wish me luck 🙏🏽
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My test print came out great. Just needed to adjust the z offset abit and BAM! Thanks a mil
Love it. 🔥🔥
I just got the ender 5 pro with all the upgrades . I’m a retired engineer and wanted to just say you’re a good teacher lol and thank you for the videos saves me a lot of time lol
Thanks, very helpful!!
Tnx man, this helped a lot
For me this video got my mind to click with how tuning the Ender 3 S1 works. Finally got a great 1st layer and now understand what to shoot for in the future!
Love it, go print some cool shizz!!
Congrats on having made the best video to explain how to use z offset together with manual bed leveling. I watched at least 10 leveling videos and none of them clearly explained relation between bed adjustment screws and z offset, causing confusion on something that ultimately is simple.
Thanks so much. These videos are allot of work, but, along my post watched. Good to have you. 🙏🏼
yioyu made this look easy... lol I am struggling but got a decent print. I need to go back and re tune bed
thanks for taking the time to show this
It IS easy. I promise. It will come with experience. You'll develop a feel & an instinct for it. Soon it'll take you 2 seconds to bang it out, run an ABL, and adjust your Z-Offset
This is a perfect beginner setup video! Also I could listen to you talk all day lol.
In the real world, I talk to much, to fast, and I'm too silly! Lol. So, this comment meant allot to me, as I TRY to be clear and proffesional. :P
Thanks man! GS
🤜🏼🤛🏼
Awesome video, thank you!!!!
Welcome! Happy to help!
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great directions. the only hiccups I had were my gantry was out of level from the factory. Also I didn't tighten the springs before the first "auto home" and by the time I got the height close to the nozzle the adjustment screws for the springs were all the way loose. I had to start over.
Thanks for saving my sanity on Christmas day
That's the plan!! My pleasure!
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very good method. However, I would pretension the springs somewhat, then autolevel, and start your process. I feel without some pretension, the springs maybe too loose to have long term bed tramming, thanks, and regards
I tensioned all 4 springs as the 1st step at @7:35
Great video, however, I have one question. In your demo, you show pressing the home button to start lowering the head from the home position to the paper. I am good to that point, Next, you move the head from the center position to the front left corner. I did not see you disable the stepper at that point in order to move the printhead. I disabled the stepper in order to move the head but now the leveling pin is dragging on the bed. Where am I going wrong here?
THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU - for this video!!!!
Your Welcome! Your Welcome! Your Welcome! Your Welcome! Your Welcome! Your Welcome! Please see the Pinned Comment on this video
Thank you for making this video. I followed another vidoe/instructions and everything went OK for a week. Then everything turned to crap on me. I followed your steps and so far so good. I am a completely new to 3d printing.
Ok I admit it I slightly snapped at the paper part but I’ve been trying to set this printer up for 7 plus hours (it’s my first one) but after a smoke break and a chill I’ve done it. Thanks so much I now have my first tiny 3d printed rabbit 🎉🎉🎉
This is so good my 10 yr old son finnaly fixed his printer and made me a boat
Epic. #Winning
Holy shnikeys! Where were you a few years ago when I started 3D printing? Well, probably right here I suppose. Finding your channel would have saved me maybe 20 different upgrades, regrades, repairs, etc. This is, by far, the single simplest, yet most informed instruction on this topic anywhere in the known universe. I may have a 30 foot bronze statue of you placed on my front field! THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!!!
Thanks so much. Getting my method across, was super important to me. So many people struggle with this. I'll Print a flux capacitor, go back in time, and make sure you find me sooner!! In the meantime, I"ll expect a photo of my statue. 😂😂
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The best video for leveling! No one explains like you tysm! CROSSING FINGERS! I leveled the bed right along with ya lol!😂!
This is the way. 🔥🔥
This is appreciated
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Thanks for this, having issues with it coming off mid print, we’ll explained. Appreciate it. Now to level,properly. I hope.😄
Happy to help, you'll get better with experience
@@3DRundown thank you, I have run the demos no issue, now trying a files I made 😃
@@jeffholmes1362 If you need some more help, pop into my full course at 3DRUNDOWN.COM
Just sent your video to my buddy. He just unboxed his new E3S1 and is having problems. This is exactly what he needs to check!
Bro, I have a whole video dedicated to tuning the S1. Find THAT one! But this one is Crucial
just set my S1 up :) cheers pal
Epic, Good luck!! 50% off code for my class:
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Nice video, thanks :)
At first I wasn't enticed to watch your video, but I grabbed a beer and said what the heck. OMG, I have such a better understanding of the Z-Offset concept now. I love the manual re-re-leveling after setting the Z-Offset and then running the bed level (mesh build) process after that. The printer is off and running.
Happy to win you over. Now go print something awesome! And visit me at 3drundown.com
Amazing tutorial ! Still can't get it done for 2 days but still good job
Yes you can. I believe in u
Thank you so much I was loosing my mind thinking I got a messed up z switch or some crap that I read on Reddit
Thank you very much for the video. And thanks for the tuning tips! Constant reminding of "don't panic" is priceless! Yep, I was panicking. But it was mostly because of the bad reputation of the process. But you made it very easy to understand the tricks of the Z-offset.
I have one obvious question, if the sandpaper lines happened (I bet you already knew I was gonna suck at first time) what can I use to that them off. Asetone ? alcohol?
Lol. Building up things as super hard, or impossible, in your head, is a major cause of failure. Don't Panick! Lol. If you scraped up your bed, you can try IPA, and razor blade. Never use Acetone for any reason ever. However.... A Glass bed is like $12. If you trashed it. Swap it out and move along. Trade $15 for your mental health, and time
Thanks for your comment in the last video. I'm gonna try this when I get home
Good luck!
Watch this also:
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Thank you so much!!! How often should you run the level bed command and check z offset, before every print?
Only when you see an issue. If you start seeing a first later where it's inconsistent, running ABL is often enough to correct it. Z Offset is something you should get comphy keeping an eye on. Sometimes a print will fail to stick it's first layer, and you'll just know to cancel it and dip your Z a tiny bit, start again and be good to go. I always use a skirt, so I can adjust before the print starts. A good tramming and ABL should last you many prints.
Can’t wait to get home and try this on my s1 plus, it’s been a headache with the nozzle crashing into the bed before every print and it occasionally giving me a probing error when I use the ABL
Let me know how it goes!
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Subbed in the first 3 min, Thanks for ELI5'ing for me!
Sweatsauce. Welcome! Visit 3drundown.com
Dude removing the bed at the end! Lmao had no idea!
Surprise! 😂🤣
Thank you! I read through the instruction booklet but was so confused why it printing so bad, they need to mention this stuff!! Or even include a QR code to this video lol
I've been told Creality sends people my Videos. 😂😂😂 happy to help. :)
hahaha I love this, hell yes, singlets ftw, you're a legend \m/
Wife Beaters all day! LMAO (don't Cancle me...)
Need your help. You always make sense with these things.. my problem isI get error AB temp on my ender3 s1 pro how do I fix it. I tried looking up information from the book it came with no help. Can you do a video on this error what to do. Silly thing I did. I bought a new part. The whole printer head from Creality thinking to do a quick swap if that works but I’m waiting for the delivery. So I can learn from the broken one help 😢
You have a broken wire, likely on the Thermister. Imspect the wire, or, better yet, replace the Thermistor.
Great Video! How did you get the bed adjusting wheels to stay tight? I see no way of doing that and mine turn pretty easy! Thanks ahead!
They stay on their own, and should not be loose. How are your springs? Are they the yellow ones?
The springs look gold or brass colored. I followed your video and got it all adjusted and the machine seems to print fine but if I so much as touch one of those wheels, it turns very easy! The machine is brand new! Thank You!@@3DRundown
They should be yellow. I THINK the S1 comes with them. If not, may be worth changing them. But 1st, if they are THAT lose, tighten them some more. This will lower the bed, so, you'll need to adjust your Z-OFFSET, and of course, TRAM AGAIN, but, it may be worth it. I want your knobs holding for MONTHS without having to touch them
Hello, quick question for you. Can you make a video or explain how to tram the bed and set the z offset for a textured PEI sheet? I really don't want to drive my nozzle into this brand-new textured sheet. I believe it's double-sided. Husband got it for me and was only looking at the size nothing else about it. I haven't been able to find a video with this printer and I haven't found a video on tramming and setting the z offset for a textured PE sheet with this printer or at all for that matter. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day!
Hi! The process is Exactly the same. Also, this bed IS a PEI bed.
Hey man thanks for your help I this is probably the best video on this topic. But I have 1 problem my nozzle scrapes against my print as it goes but it still prints decent is there any advice u could give I have a ender 3 s1
Hit u back in a bit with some thoughts. (It's 1am and my brain is asleep. 😛)
I would first consider trying a different infil pattern. Some patterns are more prone to this than others. Have look at your Z-rods, to be sure you are not experiencing any Lag, and consider slowing down a thing or 2 in your accelloration. Have a look at my most recent S1 video, and check over your girl
Ok ima try thanks man ur the man
what i found to be the only working way to tram is to flash a third party firmware called professional firmware it's really easy to flash you just move the bin file to the sd card name the folder a specific name (you need to look this up) then put the sd card in the printer and start it thats it it's flashed it's incredibly easy just make sure to use the right firmware f4 for example is for the newer version of the s1
it comes with a tramming wizard which measures each corner so rather than guessing blindly you get told which corner is too high up by numbers so if you want you can tram it even better than feel or eye as it measures using the cr touch
I much prefer manual. Newer Marlin has all sorts of Tramming Wizards, but I never use them. Whatever works though!
First of all thanks for your tutorial. It's reassuring to see a video with the exact printer model. I made the 3.1.9 marlin update from the creality site and now you can see a map of the bed leveling with different values in the auto-leveling menu. How this feature can help if we use it with your method ?
These things have been around for a while. It's nice to see Creality catch up. You may need to pick your poison, sometimes. Firmware Tools, or the old fashioned way. I use this way 99/100 times. MRISCOC on S1 let's you have it move the nozzle around, probe, then adjust the wheel, and probe again, till you get it super close, then you can run an ABL. I assume the new Creality is similar. Nothing wrong with that method, but, this method works, and you really shouldn't have to touch your knobs very often.
My bed was too bent to do this calibration. The middle of the bed was always to far away from the nozzle after this calibration but the four corners was ok. I use a S1 plus and I needed to turn the 4 knobs fully down (full spring tension). Set z-offset to -5. Do the manual level in each corner an turn the knobs up and use the paper. This allowed me to get the middle and corners of the bed calibrated correctly even if the bed was bent.
Over tightening the knobs will cause the hot plate to flex and warp. You can actually watch it happen. This is the problem here.
Hi I appreciate your videos. They make a confusing subject much easier to understand for noobies. I have a cr touch installed on my Ender 3 v2, I was wondering if there is a tutorial on interpreting the mesh results ie; colors and numbers presented in the view mesh function? Thanks
Hi, Thanks for the kind words. It seams my style of teaching, connect well with new users. I like that. :)
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That's a great request. However, it may not be as straight forward as it sounds, due to various firmware, displaying results in various ways. However, I'll see if I can give it a go, to make a video! One thing I want you to remember, is, that, while you can learn about the quality of your Tramming, by looking at the mesh, and make adjustments, if something is REALLY off, that is not the main function of the mesh. So long as your tramming isn't REALLY bad, with any drastic inconsistencies, your machine, will use the ABL Mesh, to compensate for those inconsistencies, so that you don't need to worry abou them. Just be sure to put "M420 S1" in your GCODE for ALL your models
I see at 9:25 all your springs are tighten? right before your autohome for Z off? So all steps before are not necessary? or you took up you bed to nozzle and with such tightened springs?
I moved my Knobs at 7:20
Thank you for this video, can you do it with a s1pro, pleaseeeee, the menu is diferent and i cannot make the nozzle down to print
Hi! I already did! Check my uploads. :)
@@3DRundown thank you very much, i found it 🍻
Thx for the video, we would love it if you could make a video about inconsistent CR Touch and how to overcome it like manual mesh editing, replacing or any other ways. It's really a pain.
Hi, I run a room full of CR-TOUCH, and have no problems with it. Editing the mesh isn't really a great idea, because you want the ABL to be able to adjust for the minor inconsistencies in your Manual Tramming. If you edit the mesh, the adjustments will be wrong. What issues are you having?
@@3DRundown Hi, lots of people have problems with their Cr-Touch and a lot of them go with editing their wrong mesh point values as a last resort to be able to get good first few layers. ABL doesn't work well for a lot of people like me. Mesh points are all wrong some points are too close some points are too away from the bed so we end up editing them manually. I bought my S1 in december 2022 and I am your subscriber since then but because of my ABL problem it's been getting dusty in my closet. Last year with manual editing I was able to get perfect no-gap, no-bubbles, smooth and strong first layers but it took hours. Nothing else works.
I've never edited a mesh. Not once. However, the S1 is an absolute pile of sh*t. It's the only printer I've ever had an ABL issue with. It's not the CR-TOUCH, it's the S1. It can't make a proper mesh to save the world. Why? I have no idea. My S1+ is super. My S1, sits on my basement floor.
@@3DRundown Yeah when S1 series work they work beautiful but I hear some manufacturing error caused some of them to be this way so a lot of people suffers from the same thing. Thx again have a nice day.
I never got a firm answer on my my S1 misbehaved, but, I gave up on it. However, I did print a mask with it, that ended up on national television, so, I guess at least I had a small win with it. It sit's on my floor now...
Hello! Thanks for your work for 3d print enthusiasts. I still have a problem (3s1 pro) with the level of the bed after automatic leveling (before everything is fine, all corners are ok with manula leveling). After that, for some unknown reason, there is a feeling that the bed is being folded, one side is a little too high and the other a little too low. Before the automatic leveling, everything was ok. I changed the surface to glass, the problem remained. Suspicion of the mechanism during automatic leveling. Another problem is that the CR touch does not measure where the nozzle is and not the entire area of the bed, but a smaller square, and on the right side the distance from the edge of the bed is greater than on the left side. When creating a bed map, the corners are interpolated where errors might occur. What are your thoughts? I would be grateful for any ideas as this printer has many places where errors can occur.
The S1 firmware is really poor and many people struggle with the ABL on the S1's. Focus on getting your Z Offset correct and manual tramming as good as possible. Then your abl wont have to do much
@3DRundown do you have the stock springs and wheels on your Ender 3 S1?
Stock Knobs. Yellow Springs (which came stock on mine)
hi mate cracking video. better than the official one. can u possibly help me.. iv leveled up etc.. and printed but the probe is the same distance from the table as the nozzle..i e.. when i use paper t set etc.. the nozzle nips the paper and so did the probe
is this normal.. or prints fine but then 2 are the same height
No, the retracted Probe Needle should be ABOVE the Nozzle. The extended probe Needle, during probing, should touch and retract before the nozzle. Have a look at your mount. Somehow, the Probe is too low.
@@3DRundown hi thanks for that ive unscrewed the head amd taken up the slack so now the retracted probe is around .5mm higher than the nozzle....does thar sound better?
The Ender 3 s1 is on my short list, what are your current thoughts for a 1st 3d printer
Ender 3 Neo or Max Neo. Max has a larger bed size that can be really useful. S1 will serve you well also, however I do prefer glass on it
Creality should be paying you to write/film their documentation. Infinitely better than the manufacturer's offerings; resolved all my first-layer printing problems.
I wish! They give me nothing. Lol. Please use my affiliate links when shopping. It's the best I can get....
Do tell them to send me more stuff to cover!
I appreciate the video. But man, makes me wonder what the purpose is of the CR touch, especially on my S1, 16 points it checks and I still have to go through this…
It's only purpose is to study the bed and compensate for minor discrepancies. And it's really good at it. It also gives you full Z-Offset control.
Hey man great video, I have a CR20 PRO here at home but it’s kinda getting on my nerves. My z-axis won’t budge with the offset at all. When I put my offset in the - to get it close to the plate, as soon as I touch auto home it actually adds up my offset instead of subtracting it. Can anyone help me solve this problem? Thanks 🙏🏽
I cover this in my most recent video. When you audio home, it will go to 10 + Your Z-OFFSET. The Z-Offset, is only applies, when you manually move the nozzle to ZERO (Which is now 0 + your Z Adjustment), *OR* Start a Print. Again: When you start a print, it will go to the Z-OFFSET that YOU SET. It will NOT go there, when you home. When you home, it will go to 10 + your Adjustment. If you then, go into the menu, chose MOVE, and move to 0. 0 is now your SET Z-OFFSET, and that is where it will go.
My print head is hitting the glass bed just before the cl touch stops it. The print head has to slightly tilt. What setting will adjust that? Thanks!
I would loosen the Sprite screws, and adjust. Also, can loosen the grub screws on the heater block and adjust that as well. However, maybe a simple PROBE SPACER, is easier.... (check my video on that), but you shouldn't need it, with stock setup.
Hi! Thank you for valuable video. I tried number of different ways to level the bad but failed... I followed your method and stopped on the following: (your timig (9:42) - while I unsrew the wheels, at the mid of process,at my far right corber the nozzle stuck in the bed, the same time at other corners I had to unsrew the wheels for almost but nozzle was still above (at this moment the Z=0, offset was 0 also). I had the same situation during other set ups... Can you comment - what is wrong with?
Start your tramming with the wheels snugger, so the bed begins at a lower point. Make sure your not turning them too much to adjust when tramming. I turn VERY SMALL amounts at a time.
Very helpful video, thank you!
Do the s1 and s1 pro save the mesh to eprom automatically after ABL? Need to add M420 S1 to start gcode for it to load mesh for each print? Seems like some printers have to be sent m500 for it to save the mesh to eprom rather than ram. Seems like my ender 5 plus needs new ABL after each reboot, which leads me to believe its saving mesh to ram(all probe values are zero after each reboot). Thinking about getting s1 pro as well. Trying to clear up confusion for proper setup!
Hi. Welcome! You will want M420 S1 in your GCODE. That tells the printer to use the saved mesh. Some firmware prompts to save after ABL, some don't. Unless it prompts me to save (my S1 firmware does) I always save manually after a mesh, to be sure.
M500 is the command to save. You won't need it, since you will have always done the ABL and saved. You just need to load and use it, via M420 S1
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@@3DRundown Thank you for the clarification!
@@gforce_117 🤜🏼🤛🏼
@@3DRundown Hmm, am a bit confuse - just got an S1 printer....using all stock firmware and the Creality slicer to start, and after doing all the steps in your tutorial, the S1 would save the mesh permanent in memory, but I would need to have M420 S1 in the GCODE inserted for all my prints to use and apply the saved mesh? Thank you
@@kennyc4904 Yessir. Every single file must be sliced with the M420 S1. You will be putting that in the Cura Profile, so you will only need to do it once, and it will be there anytime you slice, using that Printer in your Cura Profile
My s1 pro has a leveling problem - alwys low at the same spots with cr touch - even when using a glass bed - is as if it determents the low spots by it self - there is none as woth octoprint with glass moved over the visual is correct - no low spots
The Pro actually just got a new firmware, have you given that a shot? I have the Plus, which is basically a larger Pro, and the ABL works really well on it. However, the firmware is pretty bad. I hope to swap the screen for a V2 or S1 Screen at some point. Not sure what is happening with your mesh, but def give the new firmware a go
@3d rundown
I followed all your leveling tactics from the paper leveling and then I saved the number of the offset and then went in and set the z offset and saved it settings (ender 3 pro). Noticed it saved to the sd card, then I did the bed leveling with the cr touch, then also stored that setting.
Guess I’m wondering A. If I have to leave all the saved files on the sd card or just the most current saved ???
Also next thing, do I need to have the slicer program incorporate using the cr touch before running every program ?
Thank you
Yes, it saves to the card.
It will only keep one config file on the card.
You will need a line after G28, for the ABL to work. Anything sliced prior to that line being there, needs to be re-sliced. I have a video here on how to do it in the Cura playlist
@@3DRundown thanks man, best case would prolly be to save the z offset number to the settings and card.
I went into the prusa slicer under the expert tab.
Custom g codes the added a g29 command after the bed preheat to touch off the nine points for the probe. Seem to work when I ran another g code. That sound about right for the process? That way the slicer will add that to every export
No. I would not do that. Your Z-OFFSET can change ant anytime. Even the smallest amount.... You will want to be able to go to the machine, and make a quick adjustment, when you see an issues with the skirt, or 1st layer, then just click SAVE, and carry on. Coding the setting into a model, would be a huge pain long term. Save it at the machine.
This is the one part of 3d printing that needs to advance more than it has. With such precision steppers and levelling probes/ software I do t understand have we haven’t moved beyond paper in all 4 corners.
What exactly is stopping a com spy producing a machine where the height is sensed and the machine adjusts as it goes.
Indeed. That time is now, with Bambu Lab, using Lidar and such, but at a reasonably higher price. I do think we will see allot of progress over the next few years on this, but I also suspect low cost bed slingers, are here for a good while
Thank you for sharing your review and resolving the “Z Offset”… I am having problems with my Ender-3 S1 PRO. To reduce the problem like this, I bought their (Creality) Sonic Bed, hoping it will help. Since I connected that, I couldn’t even print a straight line. If somehow it does, it doesn’t stick at all. I have spent my last 24hours watching various Vedic here on CZcams, and going through all the settings, updating Firmware, and yet I’m still cannot print. First I made a mistake Slicing model. I changed the Infill to Triangular thinking as this is the strongest would be better. Then I realised that setting Clogs the Nozzle, so I changed the setting for the Infill to “Line”, and yet I’m still stuck. Contacting Creality seems harder than contacting NASA. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, please! Thank you in Advance!!! Cheers matey!!!
While printing your 1st layer, adjust the Z Offset at the screen, till it sticks. Same way as if using marling.
@@3DRundown Thank you for getting back to me. I will positively try again. Finger crossed...
Let me know how it went!