Hi Jon - what do you do about the thickness of the shower surround compared to the bare stud - won't the drywall have a slight angle to it when it comes down from the stud over and onto the shower surround flange??
Hi Todd Yes that's totally normal When a framed house is built from scratch Like it's done all over the United States every single day We install the unit into the bay And then we come through and drywall The drywall is installed all the way to the tub wall, all the way around the perimeter And nailed to the studs And then the concave Is Hardly noticeable But it is there And then we mud the heck out of it And then texture And any issues, disappear with the paint
Also I have one or two other videos on the same subject You might want to watch those and get any other tips and tricks Because you do not have to use drywall You can use whatever you have around you And then just mud and tape it in That way it's straight with no concave
Plus it's not only the thickness of the tub material it's also the fasteners They also stick out so it makes it really a lot thicker than the framing and so it's like three eighths of an inch or so extra from the wood , but it works out fine
Thank you for this. Was wondering myself how to finish around it without it looking odd. Some videos show using a fiber mud and just filling in the gap but that seemed to me that it may crack easier. I’m going to go the way you did it. Thanks again!
By the way I think I have four or five videos showing how to put up that system so go to my page and take a look around and you should be able to find them
Hello Jon. Thank you for your video. I’m doing an Aquatic A2 shower stall system and didn’t realize it was a direct to stud install. I almost returned it! But after watching this video, I’m confident in doing it. Question, the 32” shower pan needs to be shimmed about half an inch in back. How would you recommend I do this without causing rest of pan to lose support from its built in support system underneath? Thank you!
Since it is impossible to send pictures back and forth through CZcams Text me at 541-660-7805 Send me pics of what you're referring to Concerning shimming the back of the pan by half an inch I've installed 100 of these I've never had to do that once, so I'm a little concerned Of what you're talking about The base plate and the studs are all in line with each other So if you have removed the drywall in that area where the wall panels go And there would be no reason to shim the base text me over pics so I can see what you're talking about Fear not , we can get this handled brother 😃
Great detailed video right down to the best brand of caulking to use. I noticed you only used one screw at the drywall seams, I assume you didn't use two screws because it would crack the drywall over the pan head screw, is that correct?
I'm not sure what you are referring to Patrick I use one screw at every stud They're certainly is no more value to adding more than one screw one screw holds it tightly to the stud So why don't you text me a pic of what you're referring to at 541-660-7805 so I can see what you're up against
Yeah the new stuff they're making now is called Dap Amp It is designed and sticks to acrylic nothing else will at least nothing else you can get from the store there are two other things you can order but they're a pain in the neck You can go to any place and pick up dap amp and you'll be fine let me know if you have any other issues I'll be glad to walk you through them
This is a bit of a different question but hopefully you know of a suggestion. I have an almond tub/shower surround system that has morphed into more of a yellowish color. It appears it did not age well. It's a builder-grade unit. Do you have any suggestions re how to stop or improve the color transformation? Someone suggested I sand and spray it with white appliance paint but I have heard horror stories of it peeling and causing problems with a septic system. Plus the fumes are nasty. Thank you for any suggestions you might have.
Yes people do paint them there are companies that do it and that last somewhat you really can't scrub anymore you have to mildly wash it but it can be done and what little parts would actually flake off wouldn't hurt your septic but that would be the cheapest way to do it sanding super good every little square inch especially the nooks and crannies and then painting it with a good paint Google it I'm sure they'll give you some good ideas but I like krylon I think it's the best
I do have a question. I'm moving into a house that was remodeled almost 15yrs ago. While inspecting the house I noticed that the drywall onto of the fiberglass shower is starting to peels. Like the paint is peeling. Is that from it just being old or should I put tile around it?
Any kind of drywall is fine, It's not supposed to be getting wet ever At the very most occasionally someone will use a wash rag that is wet and will wipe down the dust, but whoever that is that is cleaning it, will be cleaning across paint so that drywall is not accessible But if you can use water resistant or mold resistant drywall it wouldn't hurt but it doesn't help that much either because if you get that wet and nasty it will also get ruined Your best bet if you believe it's going to be a lot of abuse then just use paneling or 3/8 inch plywood or 7/16 OSB Whatever fills the joint And is solid After you tape it I like to use fixall for the first coat 5 minute Hot mud works also After that regular drywall compound Topping even perfectly fine Again it's going to be sealed with a good sealant and it's going to be painted with a couple of coats of great paint
Hi Brian Gibson Stupid thing sent before I was ready Anyway go to the Home Depot or some other place like that and buy Synthetic wood and synthetic trim They have synthetic 1x8s They have synthetic molding And then caulk it in super well If you can't find a big enough or wide enough piece of synthetic wood for your sill because of the waves of the wall panels You might go to a cultured marble store And get a piece made by them Or tile it So you would put on after your wood you would put on cement board and then tile I would go with that 16 in wide tile For as few pieces as possible Just for low maintenance sake So that's three different ideas Think of it like MacGyver Figure out something to make it work All you really care about is it waterproof And sealed well
It's impossible to have real replies on CZcams because they don't allow pictures Text me at 541-660-7805 and I'll walk you through whatever issue you have
Yes if you have some concrete backer green board with redgard or 3/8 plywood 7/16 OSB anything everything doesn't matter what it is You mud it in and then texture it you primer it and then you paint it two coats then you seal the edge with a good sealant Besides doing all this for all my customers for the last 40 years I also have seven Apartments That are short-term rentals As long as the surround is maintained Water doesn't get anywhere near it And it's never an issue But if you have some waterproof Material available Then there's no reason not to use it
@@Jonehughes I’ll send a pic when I get home thank you. And yeah I see in your video you had to fix the floor next to the tub so just wondering how you fixed that
How do y’all keep water from transferring and absorbing into the drywall from the tub/shower wall/ drywall junction? Water always seems to seep through that gap and wet the edges. Can’t find a good repair video to stop the moisture from wicking.
Feel free to text me at 541-660-7805 My name is Jon I have been doing these showers for years I have seven apartments I rent out to traveling nurses And not a single one has any water damage After tons and tons of different clients New tenants every 3 months or so I don't have to explain anything to anybody However they learned to take a shower is what they bring with them And with even that as a starting point not a single bit of damage to any of my showers So there is an issue here and so let's work together see if we can't figure it out Because you definitely don't want to have wicking issues If you did it exactly the way I said to do it then you would not have any issues So perhaps you're trying to skip a step and that is causing other issues Anyway text me and we'll work it out
Soooo how fuked am I if the drywall is flushed with the shower flange? I cut out everything I could to the studs to get the shower in the bugga. Do I just mud over it with some tape from the sheet rock to the flange?
I have a window that is in the way on the back side by like 3” and have to cut this. To make it fit the side affected is the back side the wall adjacent to the the drain wondering if this would still be possible to install in my bathroom could I cut this stuff to fit around intruding window if so how? Has anyone eve ran into this problem? Thanks
I did a video similar to what you're describing here's the link to it You can always text me at 541-660-7805 and I will walk you through any issues you might have❤ czcams.com/video/1_XZB2tFE_8/video.htmlsi=UrXi3WYdgsg_0BwN
Hi Mark Yeah you can do it anytime you want once it is secured to the framing Personally I like to do it after everything is done and the very last thing I do after the painting is done is seal everything caulk from the painting to the unit to seal that connection and then caulk all the seams let that dry 24 hours and you're good to go
Maybe a silly question, but I'm a new homeowner with this exact tub! It looks like the silicone sealant/caulking between the pieces of the tub have shrunken, deteriorated, or was maybe just done poorly to begin with. Any recs for removing and re-caulking between the tiny cracks? I want to redo it with the DAP 3.0 you recommended.
Not a silly question at all Somebody used caulking or silicone Neither of which will adhere to that acrylic tub And just because it will not adhere to the acrylic tub Doesn't mean it will be super easy to remove But removing it from acrylic is a lot easier than removing it from any other kind of material Meaning that if you had that silicone on metal or any other product it would be impossible to remove But on acrylic you have a shot 😂🤣 And then like you said put on the dap 3.0 And you'll be good to go for the rest of your life Use a plastic putty knife with a sharp edge And just start removing it it's a process it should come off relatively easily but make sure it's all gone and the seam is completely clean dirt free dust free scum-free perfectly clean like it was brand new from the factory and absolutely dry The verticals are going to be easy to get them clean and dry But the entire horizontal rim Between the base and the wall panels.. It's going to be the same for getting the product off But it's got to be absolutely totally dry before you put on the DAP 3.0 And it has a ledge that holds water that you can't see So you really need to buy or borrow a leaf blower and blow out that entire bottom seam after you cleaned it off There's hidden moisture there because the wall panels sit on 2 in of Base and so that 2 in of Base has been holding water because the old sealant did not seal Step one Remove all the old sealant Step two Wash with soap and water all seams and edges that you're going to put the DAP 3.0 on Step 3 Use a leaf blower and blow out all the seams that you are going to install the DAP 3.0 Even with a really great leaf blower A little bit of moisture will still be there So turn the heater on in that room With plenty of air circulation so there's no condensation And it will dry out that excess moisture It would be nice to have a fan blowing towards the bottom seam at the same time just to help You got this...
Hi Jon! We're about ready to install our Delta 400 Classic (32x32 stall kit)... tomorrow. But we are unsure about which specific products we should get in addition to what we already have. We're buying Goboard (waterproof, not water-resistant)... and looking at Liquid Nails for the construction adhesive. Sealant... not sure what to get. And you mentioned in this video "mud", but I'm unsure exactly which product. By "mud" do you mean like, Joint Compound? We have some of that. Let me know, man... I can text you if you're around... thanks again!!
Hey Brother since you did not text me I will just tell you You need dap 3.0 sealant Caulking or silicone will not stick 2 acrylic I use hot mud or fix-all for the first coat , To set the mesh tape and then after that I just use joint compound
@@Jonehughes Hi Jon, thanks! I didn't text because you said you were home in 4-5 hours and that was like 2am my time, didn't want to text you that late. Thanks again for the info... we're going to head to the hardware stores soon and grab stuff. Dap 3.0 didn't get good reviews, however Loctite PL did and other stuff. Ok so Fix-All for the first coat... then the mesh and joint compound for the second? Apologize for my ignorance, haha. We're grabbing Goboard since it's waterproof (not water-resistant)... the kit has instructions, hopefully we'll be able to figure it out. Do we need like something mud-like for the base to sit on? I forget what I saw in a video but they had this stuff the poured in to lay the base on, so it didn't wobble or whatever. Thanks again!
Hey Chris You can text me 24 hours a day If my phone's off because I'm asleep when I wake up I will return your texts Anyway text me a pic of the bottom of your shower pan There are a lot of different models And the one you have may or may not need mud underneath it There are a couple of other sealants besides the DAP 3.0 Hopefully the one you picked will work well
And I am one of the only guys who are willing to walk you through any issues you come up with also let me know how it's going and if you need any extra help I am here for you brother
My contractor tried installing this surround today (I have the matching tub) he said he has to cut out studs to get it installed. Im trying to find a video that showed this being installed. It should just fit right on it. My bathroom is just like any other. Tub is installed screwed to the studs. Idk maybe I got a broken contractor.
It is very easy to check and see if you need to cut down studs to get this to fit I have never needed to cut down studs But a case could be made that it was necessary But it is a simple task to find out whether this is true or not Do you have 60 in between studs side to side Which means if you take a tape measure and touch one stud on the left side and take the tape measure all the way over to the stud on the right side there should be 60 in between them If there is less than 60 in It may not fit And would then need to be cut to acquire 60 in But if I'm reading your question correctly Your tub is already installed And your tub is 60 in So that pretty much answers that I do have four or five videos of installing this same unit go to my CZcams page and look up all my videos that show how to do this each video shows a different aspect
Thank you so much for your willingness to help. I very much appreciate it. I almost texted you. After looking at it myself when I got home. I realized they tried installing it backwards.
It doesn't appear you used water resistant sheetrock(the green colored sheetrock). I assume it's ok to just use regular sheetrock when trimming out a tub surround like you did in this video.
Hi Patrick Yeah I have three of these videos showing how to finish the surround I think this is the only one I use drywall at all Normally I do not normally I use some kind of plywood Anything can be used And then you coat it out Texture it Prime it And put on a couple coats of paint Seal it with a good sealant And it works perfectly fine forever and ever But you are right All things being equal If I had some green board or any other kind of water resistant or mold resistant board available I would have put that on But I didn't have any around And it really does not matter I guarantee my bathtubs and shower installations forever And I have never been called back I have own seven apartments for the last 20 years As well as my own place And I've put in brand new showers and tubs And I've always just used regular drywall the same way I just described There are literally no issues on any of them
@@Jonehughes Thank you very much Mr. Hughes for taking time out of your busy schedule to give a very detailed answer. It's especially valuable because you have vast experience with these installations and have verified over time with your own apartments that even regular sheetrock holds up around a shower surround.
So, you neglected to say when you put the DAP between the lower edge of the drywall and the shower surround. Before mudding? After mudding? After the first mudding, but before the second mudding? Do you mud over the bead of DAP you put down? Or does mud actually never touch the shower surround? These are questions I need answered. I wish you would have shown this step by step.
All good questions I don't feel like watching it over again But I think I answered all those questions in the video But I will tell you about them right now, if I did not... Use whatever filler you want It could be drywall it could be plywood paneling anything to get a relatively straight connection between the tub walls and the existing drywall just filler of any kind Then use flex drywall tape And tape the joint between the existing drywall and your filler I always use fixall because it's almost impervious to water and it dries within a couple of minutes So that way I can get on with finishing without waiting for drywall mud to dry After I've textured everything and it looks absolutely perfect I then paint it After the paintings done I then apply DAP Amp as caulking between the filler and the shower unit I use white and it does not need to be painted I apply it and smooth it with my finger It blends perfectly with the shower unit and the wall After that's done I then seal the joints of the shower unit with dap amp So the three or four piece unit will be essentially one unit when it's done being sealed with DAP amp I let that dry and I'm ready to take a shower Dap amp does not get brought out until the last minute It's not used during the construction of the system It's only used to make the separate pieces one And it's also the only product that will stick to acrylic so that's why I use it as caulking between the wall and the unit also as well as the seam of the floor to the unit If you have any other questions let me know
hello sir. im in the midst of a acrylic shower pan with acrylic surround install (delta classic 500 series). by the looks of it, you used regular drywall down to the flange on the tub surround. i do not need to use durock or greenboard drywall?
No it never gets wet after it's installed it's textured and then after it's textured it is painted and then it's sealed with the proper sealant which is at this point dap amp and then it's continued to be maintained with paint so it never gets water anywhere near it the water stays in the shower area no water ever touches that area except when you wash it and you must paint regularly if you wash it regularly
Also I'm not against those items whether you use Durock or green board or mold resistant or any other kind of expensive drywall I just never have that stuff available when I'm doing the surround so I just use what's available sometimes I use drywall sometimes I use plywood sometimes I use osb it just doesn't matter once your textured and painted nobody knows what you used and it never gets wet again
I have this type of bathtub/shower walls. Was not installed properly. Advice needed for best brand of caulking to keep water from getting behind walls. Existing silicone, actually comes off while cleaning. Please recommend best caulking and best cleaning product for tub. I hate it. Renting...old landlord left, new landlord no attention. Leaving soon...don't want problems. Thanks.
You can text me at 541-660-7805 Jon There are only three products that stick to acrylic You cannot use silicone silicone does not stick They just got rid of Dap 3.0 And replaced it with Dap AMP Text me pics of your shower and I will send you a pic of the amp
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: DAP AMP Advanced Modified Polymer 9 oz. White Kitchen and Bath Sealant www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-AMP-Advanced-Modified-Polymer-9-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Sealant-00762/316997383 SKU# 316997383
Never do that it will eventually fail. It will suck water up and your screwed. Put the drywall to the top of the flange not to the tub. Then use Dura Bond for a water proof gap between the tub and the drywall.
Hi Jon - what do you do about the thickness of the shower surround compared to the bare stud - won't the drywall have a slight angle to it when it comes down from the stud over and onto the shower surround flange??
Hi Todd
Yes that's totally normal
When a framed house is built from scratch
Like it's done all over the United States every single day
We install the unit into the bay
And then we come through and drywall
The drywall is installed all the way to the tub wall, all the way around the perimeter
And nailed to the studs
And then the concave
Is Hardly noticeable
But it is there
And then we mud the heck out of it
And then texture
And any issues, disappear with the paint
Also I have one or two other videos on the same subject
You might want to watch those and get any other tips and tricks
Because you do not have to use drywall
You can use whatever you have around you
And then just mud and tape it in
That way it's straight with no concave
Plus it's not only the thickness of the tub material
it's also the fasteners
They also stick out
so it makes it really a lot thicker than the framing and so it's like three eighths of an inch or so extra from the wood ,
but it works out fine
I had the same question. I installed drywall over the flange. Came out great. I don’t even notice the angle.
@@Jonehughes ∅
Great video! I had a new insert installed an have been wondering how to hang the sheetrock, this explained it nicely. Thank you!
Thank you for this. Was wondering myself how to finish around it without it looking odd. Some videos show using a fiber mud and just filling in the gap but that seemed to me that it may crack easier. I’m going to go the way you did it. Thanks again!
Thanks!!! Been wondering about this for a long time. There are literally no videos on CZcams that show how to do it.
Great job! Thanks for showing!
Thank you for this video! Just finished installing a surround and was wondering how to wall it in. This answered my questions!!
Like you said simple…if you’d done it before. I hadn’t so lol this was stressing me out🤣🤣 your video made it seem simple, thanks!!!
This was just the video I needed, now that I have my shower installed(this exact shower actually), going to start the drywall today.
Perfect Justin
You got this brother
If you have any issues along the way
just shoot me a reply
and I will get back with you ASAP
@@Jonehughes thanks man, I appreciate the video!
Very nice job Jon. Thank you
Great. Very helpful. Thanks.
I searched everywhere for this video. Thank you
Yep I'm putting in a Delta 400 on my own 1st time I ever done it just nice to see all the steps. Details details. Thank you
Hey Aaron
You can always text me at 541-660-7805
If you come up with any issues
I can walk you through them brother
By the way I think I have four or five videos showing how to put up that system so go to my page and take a look around and you should be able to find them
What did you put down at the base inbetween the shower and tile?
Great video! Do you use anything between the drywall and the surround, or just mud?
Hello Jon. Thank you for your video. I’m doing an Aquatic A2 shower stall system and didn’t realize it was a direct to stud install. I almost returned it! But after watching this video, I’m confident in doing it. Question, the 32” shower pan needs to be shimmed about half an inch in back. How would you recommend I do this without causing rest of pan to lose support from its built in support system underneath? Thank you!
Since it is impossible to send pictures back and forth through CZcams
Text me at 541-660-7805
Send me pics of what you're referring to
Concerning shimming the back of the pan by half an inch
I've installed 100 of these I've never had to do that once, so I'm a little concerned
Of what you're talking about
The base plate and the studs are all in line with each other
So if you have removed the drywall in that area where the wall panels go
And there would be no reason to shim the base
text me over pics
so I can see what you're talking about
Fear not ,
we can get this handled brother 😃
Hi Jon, thanks very much. So no dry wall is required behind the acrylic liner?
If you have an acrylic system that has a flange around the entire perimeter ,
you nail the flange to the studs
If you trimming around works to?????
Is there anything that can be done about a warped panel? The back panel bows out on the bottom about 2 inches on the one I'm installing.
Send pic to 541-660-7805
Great detailed video right down to the best brand of caulking to use. I noticed you only used one screw at the drywall seams, I assume you didn't use two screws because it would crack the drywall over the pan head screw, is that correct?
I'm not sure what you are referring to Patrick
I use one screw at every stud
They're certainly is no more value to adding more than one screw one screw holds it tightly to the stud
So why don't you text me a pic of what you're referring to at 541-660-7805 so I can see what you're up against
@@Jonehughes can I send you a photo.
Jon, great video. Can’t find DAP 3.0. Can you recommend another product? Appreciate your help.
Yeah the new stuff they're making now is called Dap Amp
It is designed and sticks to acrylic nothing else will at least nothing else you can get from the store there are two other things you can order but they're a pain in the neck You can go to any place and pick up dap amp and you'll be fine let me know if you have any other issues I'll be glad to walk you through them
Can I mudd the wood to Paneling? I’ve got 2 inch gaps
- just studs and wall was cut- between paneled wall and shower surround
Research using mesh tape and hot mud for that
Thanks What's a good paint to use above the shower for moisture protection
Semi gloss or gloss
a couple coats
will last forever
Eggshell.
Thank you
This is a bit of a different question but hopefully you know of a suggestion. I have an almond tub/shower surround system that has morphed into more of a yellowish color. It appears it did not age well. It's a builder-grade unit. Do you have any suggestions re how to stop or improve the color transformation? Someone suggested I sand and spray it with white appliance paint but I have heard horror stories of it peeling and causing problems with a septic system. Plus the fumes are nasty. Thank you for any suggestions you might have.
Yes people do paint them there are companies that do it and that last somewhat you really can't scrub anymore you have to mildly wash it but it can be done and what little parts would actually flake off wouldn't hurt your septic but that would be the cheapest way to do it sanding super good every little square inch especially the nooks and crannies and then painting it with a good paint Google it I'm sure they'll give you some good ideas but I like krylon I think it's the best
I do have a question. I'm moving into a house that was remodeled almost 15yrs ago. While inspecting the house I noticed that the drywall onto of the fiberglass shower is starting to peels. Like the paint is peeling. Is that from it just being old or should I put tile around it?
Hey John send me a pic 541-660-7805
Instead of a generic answer
I can give you a real answer
What type of drywall and “mud” do you use for this type of finish?
Any kind of drywall is fine,
It's not supposed to be getting wet ever
At the very most occasionally someone will use a wash rag that is wet and will wipe down the dust, but whoever that is that is cleaning it, will be cleaning across paint so that drywall is not accessible
But if you can use water resistant or mold resistant drywall it wouldn't hurt but it doesn't help that much either because if you get that wet and nasty it will also get ruined
Your best bet if you believe it's going to be a lot of abuse then just use paneling or 3/8 inch plywood or 7/16 OSB
Whatever fills the joint
And is solid
After you tape it
I like to use fixall for the first coat
5 minute Hot mud works also
After that regular drywall compound
Topping even perfectly fine
Again it's going to be sealed with a good sealant and it's going to be painted with a couple of coats of great paint
Hi Jon I have an issue with my flange protruding along the top edge and near the top side walls. Should I cut more drywall out to fix this?
Text me a pic at 541-660-7805
I'll walk you through the best way to attack it
@@Jonehughes I am lost on how to finish my window sill? It’s drywall on to a wood window sill. Any tips?
Hi Brian Gibson
Yes definitely remove all drywall
You should only have actual wood
Like Douglas fir or pine or cedar or something
Hi Brian Gibson
Stupid thing sent before I was ready
Anyway go to the Home Depot or some other place like that and buy
Synthetic wood and synthetic trim
They have synthetic 1x8s
They have synthetic molding
And then caulk it in super well
If you can't find a big enough or wide enough piece of synthetic wood for your sill because of the waves of the wall panels
You might go to a cultured marble store
And get a piece made by them
Or tile it
So you would put on after your wood you would put on cement board and then tile
I would go with that 16 in wide tile
For as few pieces as possible
Just for low maintenance sake
So that's three different ideas
Think of it like MacGyver
Figure out something to make it work
All you really care about
is it waterproof
And sealed well
@@Jonehughes well I live in Barbados. I will go to one of our local hardware stores and ask. Thanks
Hi there!!! What if the gap at the top is too small to insert the drywall - what can I do instead?
It's impossible to have real replies on CZcams because they don't allow pictures
Text me at 541-660-7805 and I'll walk you through whatever issue you have
Is it okay that you are putting regular drywall that close to a wet area? I would think concrete backer or green board with redguard.
Yes
if you have some concrete backer
green board with redgard
or 3/8 plywood
7/16 OSB
anything
everything
doesn't matter what it is
You mud it in
and then texture it
you primer it
and then you paint it
two coats
then you seal the edge with a good sealant
Besides doing all this for all my customers for the last 40 years
I also have seven Apartments
That are short-term rentals
As long as the surround is maintained
Water doesn't get anywhere near it
And it's never an issue
But if you have some waterproof
Material available
Then there's no reason not to use it
Hey great video. Question. My new tub has a gap of like almost 1 inch between the tub and the floor. How did you fix that gap? Thanks
text me at 5416607805
send me pics of your situation
I will walk you through a remedy
Well if you're not going to text me a pic of what you got going on
at least describe it better
I have no idea what you're saying
You make it sound like the tub is hovering over the floor
@@Jonehughes I’ll send a pic when I get home thank you. And yeah I see in your video you had to fix the floor next to the tub so just wondering how you fixed that
How do y’all keep water from transferring and absorbing into the drywall from the tub/shower wall/ drywall junction? Water always seems to seep through that gap and wet the edges. Can’t find a good repair video to stop the moisture from wicking.
Feel free to text me at 541-660-7805 My name is Jon
I have been doing these showers for years
I have seven apartments I rent out to traveling nurses
And not a single one has any water damage
After tons and tons of different clients
New tenants every 3 months or so
I don't have to explain anything to anybody
However they learned to take a shower is what they bring with them
And with even that as a starting point not a single bit of damage to any of my showers
So there is an issue here
and so
let's work together see if we can't figure it out
Because you definitely don't want to have wicking issues
If you did it exactly the way I said to do it then you would not have any issues
So perhaps you're trying to skip a step and that is causing other issues
Anyway text me and we'll work it out
Soooo how fuked am I if the drywall is flushed with the shower flange? I cut out everything I could to the studs to get the shower in the bugga. Do I just mud over it with some tape from the sheet rock to the flange?
I have a window that is in the way on the back side by like 3” and have to cut this. To make it fit the side affected is the back side the wall adjacent to the the drain wondering if this would still be possible to install in my bathroom could I cut this stuff to fit around intruding window if so how? Has anyone eve ran into this problem? Thanks
I did a video similar to what you're describing
here's the link to it
You can always text me at 541-660-7805
and I will walk you through any issues you might have❤
czcams.com/video/1_XZB2tFE_8/video.htmlsi=UrXi3WYdgsg_0BwN
You add the caulking at what point? After the mud, after you screw the drywall on, right before you paint?
Hi Mark
Yeah you can do it anytime you want once it is secured to the framing
Personally I like to do it after everything is done and the very last thing I do after the painting is done is seal everything caulk from the painting to the unit to seal that connection and then caulk all the seams let that dry 24 hours and you're good to go
Maybe a silly question, but I'm a new homeowner with this exact tub! It looks like the silicone sealant/caulking between the pieces of the tub have shrunken, deteriorated, or was maybe just done poorly to begin with. Any recs for removing and re-caulking between the tiny cracks? I want to redo it with the DAP 3.0 you recommended.
Not a silly question at all
Somebody used caulking or silicone
Neither of which will adhere to that acrylic tub
And just because it will not adhere to the acrylic tub
Doesn't mean it will be super easy to remove
But removing it from acrylic is a lot easier than removing it from any other kind of material
Meaning that if you had that silicone on metal or any other product it would be impossible to remove
But on acrylic
you have a shot 😂🤣
And then like you said
put on the dap 3.0
And you'll be good to go
for the rest of your life
Use a plastic putty knife with a sharp edge
And just start removing it
it's a process
it should come off relatively easily
but make sure it's all gone
and the seam is completely clean
dirt free
dust free
scum-free
perfectly clean
like it was brand new from the factory and absolutely dry
The verticals are going to be easy to get them clean and dry
But the entire horizontal rim
Between the base and the wall panels..
It's going to be the same for getting the product off
But it's got to be absolutely totally dry before you put on the DAP 3.0
And it has a ledge that holds water that you can't see
So you really need to buy or borrow a leaf blower and blow out that entire bottom seam
after you cleaned it off
There's hidden moisture there because the wall panels sit on 2 in of Base and so that 2 in of Base has been holding water because the old sealant did not seal
Step one
Remove all the old sealant
Step two
Wash with soap and water all seams and edges that you're going to put the
DAP 3.0 on
Step 3
Use a leaf blower and blow out all the seams that you are going to install the DAP 3.0
Even with a really great leaf blower
A little bit of moisture will still be there
So turn the heater on in that room
With plenty of air circulation so there's no condensation
And it will dry out that excess moisture
It would be nice to have a fan blowing towards the bottom seam at the same time just to help
You got this...
@@Jonehughes thank you!
Hi Jon! We're about ready to install our Delta 400 Classic (32x32 stall kit)... tomorrow. But we are unsure about which specific products we should get in addition to what we already have. We're buying Goboard (waterproof, not water-resistant)... and looking at Liquid Nails for the construction adhesive. Sealant... not sure what to get. And you mentioned in this video "mud", but I'm unsure exactly which product. By "mud" do you mean like, Joint Compound? We have some of that. Let me know, man... I can text you if you're around... thanks again!!
Yes when I get home from work in about 4 hours or 5 hours I can text you back so if you still have my number text me if not it's 541 660 7805
@@Jonehughes Awesome, thx man!
Hey Brother
since you did not text me
I will just tell you
You need dap 3.0 sealant
Caulking or silicone will not stick 2 acrylic
I use hot mud or fix-all
for the first coat ,
To set the mesh tape
and then after that I just use joint compound
@@Jonehughes Hi Jon, thanks! I didn't text because you said you were home in 4-5 hours and that was like 2am my time, didn't want to text you that late. Thanks again for the info... we're going to head to the hardware stores soon and grab stuff. Dap 3.0 didn't get good reviews, however Loctite PL did and other stuff. Ok so Fix-All for the first coat... then the mesh and joint compound for the second? Apologize for my ignorance, haha. We're grabbing Goboard since it's waterproof (not water-resistant)... the kit has instructions, hopefully we'll be able to figure it out. Do we need like something mud-like for the base to sit on? I forget what I saw in a video but they had this stuff the poured in to lay the base on, so it didn't wobble or whatever. Thanks again!
Hey Chris
You can text me 24 hours a day
If my phone's off because I'm asleep when I wake up
I will return your texts
Anyway text me a pic of the bottom of your shower pan
There are a lot of different models
And the one you have may or may not need mud underneath it
There are a couple of other sealants besides the DAP 3.0
Hopefully the one you picked will work well
I have watched 12 videos trying to understand what you explained in 2 minutes
And I am one of the only guys who are willing to walk you through any issues you come up with also let me know how it's going and if you need any extra help I am here for you brother
My contractor tried installing this surround today (I have the matching tub) he said he has to cut out studs to get it installed. Im trying to find a video that showed this being installed. It should just fit right on it. My bathroom is just like any other. Tub is installed screwed to the studs. Idk maybe I got a broken contractor.
It is very easy to check and see if you need to cut down studs to get this to fit
I have never needed to cut down studs
But a case could be made that it was necessary
But it is a simple task to find out whether this is true or not
Do you have 60 in between studs side to side
Which means
if you take a tape measure and touch one stud on the left side and take the tape measure all the way over to the stud on the right side there should be 60 in between them
If there is less than 60 in
It may not fit
And would then need to be cut to acquire 60 in
But if I'm reading your question correctly
Your tub is already installed
And your tub is 60 in
So that pretty much answers that
I do have four or five videos of installing this same unit go to my CZcams page and look up all my videos that show how to do this each video shows a different aspect
It is easier to reply on my phone
Text me at 541-660-7805
Send me pics of what you have
I will walk you through the correct installation procedure
Thank you so much for your willingness to help. I very much appreciate it. I almost texted you. After looking at it myself when I got home. I realized they tried installing it backwards.
What brand is this?
The shower stall is the classic Delta 400
How much it cost to put in a fiberglass wall around the tub
3000
It doesn't appear you used water resistant sheetrock(the green colored sheetrock). I assume it's ok to just use regular sheetrock when trimming out a tub surround like you did in this video.
Hi Patrick
Yeah
I have three of these videos showing how to finish the surround
I think this is the only one I use drywall at all
Normally I do not
normally I use some kind of plywood
Anything can be used
And then you coat it out
Texture it
Prime it
And put on a couple coats of paint
Seal it with a good sealant
And it works perfectly fine forever and ever
But you are right
All things being equal
If I had some green board or any other kind of water resistant or mold resistant board available I would have put that on
But I didn't have any around
And it really does not matter
I guarantee my bathtubs and shower installations forever
And I have never been called back
I have own seven apartments for the last 20 years
As well as my own place
And I've put in brand new showers and tubs
And I've always just used regular drywall the same way I just described
There are literally no issues on any of them
@@Jonehughes Thank you very much Mr. Hughes for taking time out of your busy schedule to give a very detailed answer. It's especially valuable because you have vast experience with these installations and have verified over time with your own apartments that even regular sheetrock holds up around a shower surround.
So, you neglected to say when you put the DAP between the lower edge of the drywall and the shower surround. Before mudding? After mudding? After the first mudding, but before the second mudding? Do you mud over the bead of DAP you put down? Or does mud actually never touch the shower surround? These are questions I need answered. I wish you would have shown this step by step.
All good questions
I don't feel like watching it over again
But I think I answered all those questions in the video
But I will tell you about them right now, if I did not...
Use whatever filler you want It could be drywall it could be plywood paneling anything to get a relatively straight connection between the tub walls and the existing drywall just filler of any kind
Then use flex drywall tape
And tape the joint between the existing drywall and your filler
I always use fixall because it's almost impervious to water and it dries within a couple of minutes
So that way I can get on with finishing without waiting for drywall mud to dry
After I've textured everything and it looks absolutely perfect
I then paint it
After the paintings done
I then apply DAP Amp as caulking between the filler and the shower unit
I use white and it does not need to be painted
I apply it and smooth it with my finger
It blends perfectly with the shower unit and the wall
After that's done
I then seal the joints of the shower unit with dap amp
So the three or four piece unit will be essentially one unit when it's done being sealed with DAP amp
I let that dry and I'm ready to take a shower
Dap amp does not get brought out until the last minute
It's not used during the construction of the system
It's only used to make the separate pieces one
And it's also the only product that will stick to acrylic so that's why I use it as caulking between the wall and the unit also as well as the seam of the floor to the unit
If you have any other questions let me know
hello sir. im in the midst of a acrylic shower pan with acrylic surround install (delta classic 500 series). by the looks of it, you used regular drywall down to the flange on the tub surround. i do not need to use durock or greenboard drywall?
No
it never gets wet after it's installed
it's textured
and then after it's textured
it is painted
and then it's sealed with the proper sealant
which is at this point dap amp
and then it's continued to be maintained with paint
so it never gets water anywhere near it
the water stays in the shower area
no water ever touches that area
except when you wash it
and you must paint regularly
if you wash it regularly
Also
I'm not against those items
whether you use Durock
or green board
or mold resistant
or any other kind of expensive drywall
I just never have that stuff available
when I'm doing the surround
so I just use what's available
sometimes I use drywall
sometimes I use plywood
sometimes I use osb
it just doesn't matter
once your textured and painted
nobody knows what you used
and it never gets wet again
What about the thickness of the tub surrounded flange? The half inch drywall will not be plumb with the rest of the wall if you go over the flange.
Hi Dan
Look down a couple of replies to Todd Booker's
I answered that in Todd Becker's reply
czcams.com/video/rY9oxWKImyk/video.html
What about the bed
If you go to my page you can look through 30 different videos of setting the bed
I just replied and apparently I can't find my reply so anyway go to my page and you'll find several videos that show how to set the bed
I have this type of bathtub/shower walls. Was not installed properly. Advice needed for best brand of caulking to keep water from getting behind walls. Existing silicone, actually comes off while cleaning. Please recommend best caulking and best cleaning product for tub. I hate it. Renting...old landlord left, new landlord no attention. Leaving soon...don't want problems. Thanks.
You can text me at 541-660-7805 Jon
There are only three products that stick to acrylic
You cannot use silicone silicone does not stick
They just got rid of Dap 3.0
And replaced it with Dap AMP
Text me pics of your shower and I will send you a pic of the amp
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
DAP AMP Advanced Modified Polymer 9 oz. White Kitchen and Bath Sealant
www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-AMP-Advanced-Modified-Polymer-9-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Sealant-00762/316997383
SKU# 316997383
Do I know you ? Grants pass ?
Yes
you're my painter buddy 🥰
Never do that it will eventually fail. It will suck water up and your screwed. Put the drywall to the top of the flange not to the tub. Then use Dura Bond for a water proof gap between the tub and the drywall.
At that height, so long as the extractor fan is sufficient and is always used, the drywall above the enclosure has no reason to fail.