Autobike Classic 1997 or 1998

Autobike Classic 1997 or 1998
This is an Autobike Classic model in original excellent condition and is certainly unique as there are no shifters on the bike meaning the bike automatically shifts on its own.
The automatic gear system was developed by two Canadian inventors, Robert Dutil and Raymond Gilbert and instead of having traditional shift levers, the system worked on the principle of centrifugal force to shift between the speeds.
The system was called the Dutil named from a contraction of the inventor’s names Dutil and Gilbert. The system was ingenious as there are three weights mounted on the rear wheel spokes that slide outward as the speed of the bike increases. Each of the weights is connected by a short rod that looks like a small spoke. As the speed increases centrifugal force pulls the weights outward pulling on the rods. This centrifugal action actuates levers connected to a ring that moves the derailleur thus moving from one cog to the next on the freewheel cassette and changing the gears.
The speed of the rear wheel (or how fast the rider is going) determines which gear is selected, with the goal of keeping the rider pedaling at a steady cadence. As the rider’s speed increases, the weights move outwards and the bike automatically shifts to a higher gear. As the rider slows down or stops, the weights move inward and the system automatically returns to a lower gear thus ready for easier pedaling.
Interestingly the Autobike was launched in 1997 through a $10 million TV campaign featuring an 'award winning infommercial' which can still be seen on youtube today. The bike originally went for 300 to $380 and was shipped requiring assembly.
Autobike Classic Infomercial 10/10/1998
• AutoBike Classic infom...
Spec’s on the bike;
Size - 18”
Frame - Hi-tensile steel
Fork - Hi-tensile steel unicrown
Shifters - N/A
Cassette - 6-speed, 14 - 28 teeth
Crankset - 3-piece forged steel, 44 teeth
Wheels - Aluminum, 36-hole
Hubs - Steel, nutted
Tires - 26 x 1.75inch Kenda
Handlebars - Antler, 65mm rise
Saddle - Velo Gelfoam extra wide w/comfort springs
Seatpost - Pillar, steel, black w/Q/R, 25.4mm diameter
Brakes - Cantilever
Headset - 1inch steel

[@ericarachel55]

I have one, a mens model that I bought new probably around 2000, I just took it down (2024) from my garage loft and aired up the tires and it worked!

[@johnsbikerestorations]

Love to see these bikes still on the road! Thanks for the comment!

[@aliciamaquehue3537]

Lloro porque tube una de esas y nunca mas encntre de las mismas .

[@LeoRR-sb7oo]

Yo tengo uno orita bien corrida la pobre le echo grasa o aceite cada mes porque se le seca de tanto correr jaja

[@victorbarajas4705]

Do you know if this system can be installed on a different frame or is it proprietary to this bike?

[@johnsbikerestorations]

That’s a good question and I guess the answer is maybe. This is what would need to be considered;
- All of the system components including rear wheel assembly, rear derailleur, crankset and bottom bracket would need to be installed on the new frame.
- The rear wheel assembly will install into 130mm spaced rear dropouts.
- The integrated Autobike crankset provides freewheeling as the rear cluster does not freewheel thus must be used on the new frame.
- As the right side crankset assembly is quite wide, a standard cup and cone 128mm bottom bracket was used thus the 128mm bottom bracket should be used on the new frame and will fit a standard 68mm shell.
- The primary consideration before attempting a transplant would be to ensure there is clearance for the right crank assembly to the new frame (ideally 10 mm’s).
Hope this helps.

[@victorbarajas4705]

@@johnsbikerestorations yeah definitely helps. There’s one of these for sale in my area and I’m planning on putting this system on a 90s folding mountain bike that I have.

[@johnsbikerestorations]

@@victorbarajas4705 Sounds interesting! And of course the new frame needs to accept the 26" rear wheel.

[@NNegativeCreep]

Hey John, not sure if you're still using the channel but I have this exact bike, it was my late dad's bike, and I recently got it out of storage to use. It's been sitting in the garage hanging up for about 10 years unused.
My question is when I'm riding it, it feels like an absolute chore to ride. What I mean is like going down a straight flat rode I'll go from peddling with almost no resistance in the pedals then it will shift and it's like peddling through mud. I don't even know where to begin trouble shooting it so I thought I'd ask here after finding this video.
I will say it peddles freely, the weight do move up and down as the wheel spins and it's not rusted. The shifting just feels like it's working against the whole ride.

[@johnsbikerestorations]

The concept of the bike had good intensions but was greatly affected by pedaling cadence thus I think it’s the reason the bike never caught on as it never seemed to be in the right gear for many folks. To check if the system is working properly, place the bike on a bike stand (or the rear wheel off the ground) and start pedaling. As the speed of pedaling increases the bike will shift through all of the gears and when pedaling is stopped, the bike will shift back. Hope this helps.

[@diatonicdoug6525]

Make sure it only shifts one cog at a time. I believe there is a spring that facilitates this

[@johnsbikerestorations]

@@diatonicdoug6525 Shifting is controlled by the centrifugal force of the weights on the rear wheel thus need to ensure the weights are moving freely on the spokes.
The other component that commonly fails is the plastic tab mounted to the rear derailleur that rides on the circular disc mounted to the hub that the weights are attached to. As the rider pedals faster the weights move the disc outwards thus pushing on the plastic tab attached to the derailleur and changes the gears. It’s common for this plastic tab to be ground off by the circular disc pushing on it. Amazing concept poor design.