Thanks man FINALLY someone that gets to the point and just stick to main points of info I'm tryn to find . Omg I can NOT understand how some people can make a 25 min vid of screwing in a lightbulb
I just replaced my ignition coil on a kz440 and it still didn't work. After about 1 week of troubleshooting I saw this video and found out my new ignition coil failed. This video relieved me of a huge headache. Thanks for the troubleshooting guide! 👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks for adding a real world experience. If I had a nickel for every time I've heard someone say "I just replaced the whatever with a new one, so it can't be that causing the problem", I'd be a rich man. Yes, things can be defective straight from the factory.
GREAT video! My RM370 pops and snaps and won't pull under load, and I saw .5 ohms on the primary side. Double checked my meter and your method on my good running GT550 and it showed 4.5 just like you said. So now I know what the RM needs. Thanks for posting this!!!
Gonna try on my quad that went down a week ago or so. Had spark after replacing the ignition switch. After which I simply removed and cleaned my batt. cables and terminals, placed em back on, and did not have spark anymore. A bit worried about throwing loads of money at a diagnosis, so purchased a multi meter today. No experience using one but there are luckily some informative vids on here. Thanks man !
Awesome video. I'm rebuilding a '92 VFR750F that has no spark. I was about to blindly start replacing coils but it turns out I was testing them wrong... I'm sure one or two are bad, but this gives me an excuse to go play with tools again. This helped a lot, thanks!
thanks for posting this video. I am working on 78 DT400 that is giving me all kinds electrical issues. Ran last Sept. but refuses to fire now, took the spark plug out and held against the engine but no spark. Will now try what you have shown here. Thanks again.
My brother this is 8 years after you posted it and it still helping people out cuz it just helped me at least rule a few things out I've got ohms reading 4.2 from my coil I believe it's the primaries I was checking I go to check the secondary the way you did my meter did not change at all but then again I also tested the volts going to it nothing not sure if it's homes won't go ahead and run through both to check homes and voltage going to it so anything at all either yep just checked no ohms no volts going to it
NIce Work. This is something you can commit to memory. (3-5 or so primary 10-20 grand secondary) and have an fast troubleshooting step that diagnoses a major component/culprit in the no-spark scenario.
Thanks, man 👌🏼 I finally found the damn problem, that I've been trying to solve for a couple years, now. One of my spark wires was badly worn, not even touching the coil anymore. Cheers man👍🏼
sometimes the spark plug cap fails - the coil could well be fine - best to unscrew the cap and test that as well or test the HT lead as that can also fail
finally I found somebody to know if they were done thanks man you know what your doing but call you know what you're doing with the video thank you wanted the best instructional videos I've seen tonight
Thank you! Brief and to the point! Your hands were not in the way, like most of these people trying to make a video. We could see what you were doing and didn't have to listen to a lot of time consuming nonsense! Excellent dude!
Hey don't go throwing away your coil just yet, it could also be a bad HT wire connection with the plug, or the lead with the coil or just a bad wire. You can test this by disconnecting the HT wire and retest where the wire connects to the coil instead of the plug end (or just by pulling around a bit checking for loose connections).
Really appreciate vid. Put over $300 bucks into my sportsman with upgraded RMSTATOR ignition changed stator/pickup coil voltage regulator used your test and it was the coil. $29 bucks but I got it free because it was still in warranty. If I'd only seen this vid. earlier. Thanks will subscribe.
+OutlandRiderz damn. I'm getting to be in the same boat as you. glad I found this video though before I started throwing money. First I need to get a multimeter >.
i know a good multimeter is necessary (and mandatory) on some levels but i prefer using my fluke automatic multimeter...if i need to technical i just switch to the other probe input on my meter
You may also use a mega ohm meter , because as a student of MMI Phoenix AZ they taught us that resistance really doesn't mean it's a good reading. But a maga meter will create an open if it is there at all
Good video was helpful thanks, I did the tests thought I had a rotten coil but it was the end cap not on properly make sure you check that first or you could be throwing away a good coil
Great video. I'm working on a 73 Suzuki RV125 that lost spark. Coils are available, but, extremely expensive. You probably just saved me $125.00. Thanks!
I just ran this check on my 2001 750 ACE. My secondary reading was the same as youors. I have spent way rtoo much money trying to figure this out. I will check the wires, then replace the wires or coils. Hopefully, this will fix the problem.
Fyi. This only works for single coil bike. If you have 2 coils. You check the secondary by inserting the leads of the multimeter to the both of the spark plug wires. Hope that make sense.
this helped me out a lot. thank you. I tried this and it confirms I have a bad coil. I'm confused at the moment because the bike starts, can the bike still start if the coil is bad? one of my mufflers gets hot and one stays cool to the touch so I was assuming the bad coil isn't firing up on the cool muffler. any info is greatly appreciated. thank you in advance.
Love your vid brother. I've done everything to this motorcycle from carbs, vac lines, plugs, fuel pump, oil/oil filter. The bike starts right up and idles great, it dies upon throttle unless I spray fuel in airbox or carbs, then it will rev normal. Can a bad coil still spark just enough to idle but not rev? Any help appreciated.
Do not ignore that most bikes use a resistive spark plug cap. Typically 5k ohms. This probably explains why you had roughly 15k on the secondary, as you measured it in series with the cap. Also to where you said "there's a break in our secondary coil somewhere and we definitely need to replace it" I have to interrupt. That's not true 90% of the time. It's most often a broken cap resistor, which involves a simple and cheap replacement of the S.P. cap. The second most likely thing to happen is corroded HT wires. They corrode where they mate with the screw in the S.P. cap and also at the coil mating surface IF it's not fixed and factory sealed. The rubber boot becomes brittle and allows moisture to enter it, as years go by. The best way to test your coils, is to perform an actual electrodynamic test on it. I know sounds very advanced and fancy to you, who haven't heard about it before, but it's actually very simple. What you do, is you simulate the point's and condenser principal, on your work bench. Figure out the rated voltage of your machine (typically 6V,DC or 12V,DC). Then feed it to the coil and don't forget the capacitor! Just find a capacitor from any machine, that was designed to act as an ignition capacitor. If you don't have it, go find, or very cheaply buy one that isn't polarity sensitive (electrolytic), has a capacity of at least 0.2µf and can withstand 600V. If you aren't familiar with the old points and condenser setup, I will tell you; that it's very easy to simulate and anyone can do it and understand the diagram, which you can find anywhere. Just tap a loose wire, to simulate the opening and closing contacts (breaker point). At each moment you break contact (release the wire), your HT lead(s) should spark, if the coil is any good. Just remember to place them very close to ground. As close as a spark plug gap typically is. Ultimately you will just perform the test with the spark plug(s) connected. Just make sure their metal body touches ground. This definitely also works on machines with electronic ignition, as the coil remains to rely on the same principal 95% of the time, or more. On some self generating systems however (not everyone, depending upon design), it can be impossible to perform the test, due to a variety of design limitations, but this test is good for almost every system, which relies on a battery for sparking. The ohmic test we see in the video, is only solely reliable if you have the particular coil's ohmic specifications on hand. You will also need a name-brand meter, which must include low resistance probes and probe wires. Cheap meters come with wires plus probes, of at least one ohm sometimes, and their accuracy is somewhat questionable too. This becomes an issue at tasks like this exact one - when dealing with low resistance, where a little change in resistance, has relatively dramatic distortion on the test result. Best of Luck, Ragnar W. Eliansson.
good video ,we all know the pain I am currently going to an elec problem on my Kawasaki dirt bike no spark coming from the bike , so I orderd a new coil and if that dosnt fix it I might need a magneto YIKES!!!
when trying to start my bike there is a spark at the beginning of pressing the electric starter and when i let it go, but not in between - do you think it could also be a bad coil? thank you for your video!
excellent and to the point. Watched 6 other videos that took 10 -15 minutes to explain and it was still unclear. 10 STARS!!!!
An excellent video from a true expert. Thanks for making this quick, to the point and informative.
Thanks man FINALLY someone that gets to the point and just stick to main points of info I'm tryn to find . Omg I can NOT understand how some people can make a 25 min vid of screwing in a lightbulb
😂🤣
Thank you .. nice to have someone talk English and don't rattle on about a load of crap that makes no sense or got nothing to do with the subject
This was great! Short, simple and to the point! Thanks for putting this out. This will help as I restore my 1980 CB750 on my channel!
Thank you, I followed that and was able to verify my Lucas 6v Coils in as long as it took you to so clearly demonstrate the process.
I just replaced my ignition coil on a kz440 and it still didn't work. After about 1 week of troubleshooting I saw this video and found out my new ignition coil failed. This video relieved me of a huge headache. Thanks for the troubleshooting guide! 👍🏾👍🏾
Amirali Mohamed I have a 79 Kz400 I'm working on 👌
Thanks for adding a real world experience. If I had a nickel for every time I've heard someone say "I just replaced the whatever with a new one, so it can't be that causing the problem", I'd be a rich man. Yes, things can be defective straight from the factory.
I was lucky, this was my first vid. It's all I needed. Thank you from Western Australia.
GREAT video! My RM370 pops and snaps and won't pull under load, and I saw .5 ohms on the primary side. Double checked my meter and your method on my good running GT550 and it showed 4.5 just like you said. So now I know what the RM needs. Thanks for posting this!!!
Gonna try on my quad that went down a week ago or so. Had spark after replacing the ignition switch. After which I simply removed and cleaned my batt. cables and terminals, placed em back on, and did not have spark anymore. A bit worried about throwing loads of money at a diagnosis, so purchased a multi meter today. No experience using one but there are luckily some informative vids on here. Thanks man !
Best video out there super detailed and quick. Thank you
Thanks for the video and i agree with you final comment. Trying to get my 84 125 RM running. You get my Thumbs up 8)
Awesome video! Searched through about 20 videos for what I thought would be a simple answer to find before I found this, finally!
Simple but well shown I'm off to check mine as I have all the symptoms of a bad coil. Thanks
Thank you for explaining the process, this helped me a lot.
Short and straight to the point, beautiful vid
Awesome video. I'm rebuilding a '92 VFR750F that has no spark. I was about to blindly start replacing coils but it turns out I was testing them wrong... I'm sure one or two are bad, but this gives me an excuse to go play with tools again. This helped a lot, thanks!
Thanks , best vid yet on coils , nice back ground music !
Cgreat video. Please put up more, you have a great explanation of the problem I’m having
Seeing what a non working coil reads compared to a fully functioning one is very helpful, will be checking my own bike for the same problem.
thanks for posting this video. I am working on 78 DT400 that is giving me all kinds electrical issues. Ran last Sept. but refuses to fire now, took the spark plug out and held against the engine but no spark. Will now try what you have shown here. Thanks again.
Your a Godsend, thanks SO MUCH MAN!! definitely subscribed.
Thanks Man !!! I just checked it on My ct 90 the coil is good ! I think it is the condenser .
Keep up the great vids !
nice short price and to the point - you are the man !! nice work.
My brother this is 8 years after you posted it and it still helping people out cuz it just helped me at least rule a few things out I've got ohms reading 4.2 from my coil I believe it's the primaries I was checking I go to check the secondary the way you did my meter did not change at all but then again I also tested the volts going to it nothing not sure if it's homes won't go ahead and run through both to check homes and voltage going to it so anything at all either yep just checked no ohms no volts going to it
It's ppl like you that make the world turn. Thx bud.
Thanks for the video. Confirmed what I was reading on my coil. Strange coincidence that I am working on the same model CL360!
ha ha, I own a CB360, but I needed to know this stuff for a 6v single coil 1958 Triumph
NIce Work. This is something you can commit to memory. (3-5 or so primary 10-20 grand secondary) and have an fast troubleshooting step that diagnoses a major component/culprit in the no-spark scenario.
Very well explained for newer bike owners thank you
Great video! simple explanation, much appreciated!
Outstanding video. Awesome background music.
thanks for this one. saved me a ton of hassle
Thanks, man 👌🏼 I finally found the damn problem, that I've been trying to solve for a couple years, now. One of my spark wires was badly worn, not even touching the coil anymore. Cheers man👍🏼
wow you nailed it right quick! well done! some just guess, you made it easy! thanks!
sometimes the spark plug cap fails - the coil could well be fine - best to unscrew the cap and test that as well or test the HT lead as that can also fail
finally I found somebody to know if they were done thanks man you know what your doing but call you know what you're doing with the video thank you wanted the best instructional videos I've seen tonight
Thank you! Brief and to the point! Your hands were not in the way, like most of these people trying to make a video. We could see what you were doing and didn't have to listen to a lot of time consuming nonsense! Excellent dude!
Very helpful and clear. Thanks man!
Great info. Another good test added to the toolbox....
Well done! about the fourth or fifth vid I've watch professing to show this. First one with all the details. THANKS!!!
Thank you, I've been trying to figure out my electrical problem on my 71 cb750. Hopefully this will let me know what's going on.
awesome to the point , showed multi meter settings great vid
Hey don't go throwing away your coil just yet, it could also be a bad HT wire connection with the plug, or the lead with the coil or just a bad wire. You can test this by disconnecting the HT wire and retest where the wire connects to the coil instead of the plug end (or just by pulling around a bit checking for loose connections).
Thank you so much
You fixed my bike.
Really appreciate vid. Put over $300 bucks into my sportsman with upgraded RMSTATOR ignition changed stator/pickup coil voltage regulator used your test and it was the coil. $29 bucks but I got it free because it was still in warranty. If I'd only seen this vid. earlier. Thanks will subscribe.
+OutlandRiderz damn. I'm getting to be in the same boat as you. glad I found this video though before I started throwing money. First I need to get a multimeter >.
i know a good multimeter is necessary (and mandatory) on some levels but i prefer using my fluke automatic multimeter...if i need to technical i just switch to the other probe input on my meter
You may also use a mega ohm meter , because as a student of MMI Phoenix AZ they taught us that resistance really doesn't mean it's a good reading. But a maga meter will create an open if it is there at all
Thank you so much - clear and simple
great clean explanation with no added BS
Great video, i have a Cagiva WMX 500 no spark and wanted to check coil to not just parts change because they are impossible to find!
Great Vid & Backing Music !!!
Great info! Thanks for this.
Good video was helpful thanks, I did the tests thought I had a rotten coil but it was the end cap not on properly make sure you check that first or you could be throwing away a good coil
It could have been the line between the coil and the spark plug cap.
Good video 👍 now I know how to test my coil
Excellent video...professional made...just to the point. Big tks.
Great video. I'm working on a 73 Suzuki RV125 that lost spark. Coils are available, but, extremely expensive. You probably just saved me $125.00.
Thanks!
Thank you sir , will check my coils on the cb360 cause I have no spark on either side.
I did this with a old needle ohm meter. Just looking for an open circuit and voala ... Secondary had no bounce at all... Thanks!
I just ran this check on my 2001 750 ACE. My secondary reading was the same as youors. I have spent way rtoo much money trying to figure this out. I will check the wires, then replace the wires or coils. Hopefully, this will fix the problem.
That will sure help!👍
ty for the vid that sure helps out alot well done
Great to the point video!! Thanks
Great video! Thanks so much!
Thanks for the help!
Fyi. This only works for single coil bike. If you have 2 coils. You check the secondary by inserting the leads of the multimeter to the both of the spark plug wires. Hope that make sense.
Please ..can you be more specific. I fdnt follow you.
Good video, thanks for the tutorial.
Can you do a video on how to test a CDI box??
great video. thanks!
Great video very helpful and easy to follow
thanks for your time .thats really good things to get my life and experience thanx
Awesome videob! Thank you !
A good and informative video. Thanks.
Thanks, Very informative.
great video for testing single coil. What about testing a duel coil?
this helped me out a lot. thank you. I tried this and it confirms I have a bad coil. I'm confused at the moment because the bike starts, can the bike still start if the coil is bad? one of my mufflers gets hot and one stays cool to the touch so I was assuming the bad coil isn't firing up on the cool muffler. any info is greatly appreciated. thank you in advance.
Great work, thanks. Not the coil, but led me to test the plug wires.....
Thanks so much. Great video
Love your vid brother. I've done everything to this motorcycle from carbs, vac lines, plugs, fuel pump, oil/oil filter. The bike starts right up and idles great, it dies upon throttle unless I spray fuel in airbox or carbs, then it will rev normal. Can a bad coil still spark just enough to idle but not rev? Any help appreciated.
Great video! Thank you...
Good video. Very helpful, thanks.
thanks. it helped me with my old japanese thing
ECM controlled coils have a 4 wire plug. Would you know about voltages or resistance on which pin to check ?
Great video!
thank you for this great video
Right to the fuckin point ! Great video !! Thanks! ( I have a bad coil)
Good job man 😅
My ignition coil earth wire melts when I try to turn over from electric start ... If I kick start it's fine .. do I replace full coil or just HT lead
great video!
thanks dude! Yamaha will spark again *_^
Thanks dude 👍
Thanks. Great info.
perfect quick video. 1991 z50r problem solve
great tutorial. thanks mate
I would recommend testing the secondary value directly from the coil tower rather than the plug wire connection. I had a failed plug wire connector.
good stuff bro. thanks
Do not ignore that most bikes use a resistive spark plug cap. Typically 5k ohms. This probably explains why you had roughly 15k on the secondary, as you measured it in series with the cap.
Also to where you said "there's a break in our secondary coil somewhere and we definitely need to replace it" I have to interrupt. That's not true 90% of the time. It's most often a broken cap resistor, which involves a simple and cheap replacement of the S.P. cap. The second most likely thing to happen is corroded HT wires. They corrode where they mate with the screw in the S.P. cap and also at the coil mating surface IF it's not fixed and factory sealed. The rubber boot becomes brittle and allows moisture to enter it, as years go by.
The best way to test your coils, is to perform an actual electrodynamic test on it. I know sounds very advanced and fancy to you, who haven't heard about it before, but it's actually very simple. What you do, is you simulate the point's and condenser principal, on your work bench. Figure out the rated voltage of your machine (typically 6V,DC or 12V,DC). Then feed it to the coil and don't forget the capacitor! Just find a capacitor from any machine, that was designed to act as an ignition capacitor. If you don't have it, go find, or very cheaply buy one that isn't polarity sensitive (electrolytic), has a capacity of at least 0.2µf and can withstand 600V.
If you aren't familiar with the old points and condenser setup, I will tell you; that it's very easy to simulate and anyone can do it and understand the diagram, which you can find anywhere. Just tap a loose wire, to simulate the opening and closing contacts (breaker point). At each moment you break contact (release the wire), your HT lead(s) should spark, if the coil is any good. Just remember to place them very close to ground. As close as a spark plug gap typically is. Ultimately you will just perform the test with the spark plug(s) connected. Just make sure their metal body touches ground. This definitely also works on machines with electronic ignition, as the coil remains to rely on the same principal 95% of the time, or more.
On some self generating systems however (not everyone, depending upon design), it can be impossible to perform the test, due to a variety of design limitations, but this test is good for almost every system, which relies on a battery for sparking.
The ohmic test we see in the video, is only solely reliable if you have the particular coil's ohmic specifications on hand. You will also need a name-brand meter, which must include low resistance probes and probe wires. Cheap meters come with wires plus probes, of at least one ohm sometimes, and their accuracy is somewhat questionable too. This becomes an issue at tasks like this exact one - when dealing with low resistance, where a little change in resistance, has relatively dramatic distortion on the test result.
Best of Luck, Ragnar W. Eliansson.
Jerkwaad make a video about what you're saying
Ugh. Please DONT make a video.
Good explanation. Thank you
Good job great video
good video ,we all know the pain I am currently going to an elec problem on my Kawasaki dirt bike no spark coming from the bike , so I orderd a new coil and if that dosnt fix it I might need a magneto YIKES!!!
when trying to start my bike there is a spark at the beginning of pressing the electric starter and when i let it go, but not in between - do you think it could also be a bad coil? thank you for your video!