"Thank God for aftermarket parts...now I'm gonna bitch about 'em." This has been my mantra for the last 5 years, LOL! It's amazing when you buy an AMD panel and it fits perfect then, the next AMD panel requires hours of work to make it usable.
perfect timing on doing a replace and install on roof. I cut off roof panel also on my car along with rear quarters. Hopefully i can pick up on a few pointers watching your videos. when i got the roof i was wondering what the tabs were for too, other than hanging hooks maybe
Could you please tell me if you can buy a roof skin that has the drip rails already attached to it. Fixing to start working on mine and know it will need drip rails. Just wondering if you could buy it all as one piece. Thank you.
a Idea for removing the rust from inside the A pillars ....cut a access hole on the top or bottom, use a long bristle bottle brush dipped in rust converter (I use ospho), let dry, then coat with a paint like por15 or such, fold back the hole flap and weld....don't give up
Ya know Roger If it were me I would install the roof with panelbond adhesive and weld. The Panel Adhesive would also be a seam sealer so to speak. I would just leave the edpm coating inside but I would prob sand the roof down with 240 get most of the edpm coating off and make damn sure there was no rust hiding under the coating. But in general I like the roof. Looks doable lol
the roof skin may be considered a structural panel on this car. adhesive bonding/gluing the roof on may not provide the flexibility for a unibody car. I dont know. It may work fine. I know it would work on a chevelle with a full frame. Camaro..... Im not sure.
Really nice video Roger. Didn’t know that lead was used at the A post. At least the roof panel wasn’t folded like a taco 🌮 and stuffed in the box 📦 Just saying...🤔🧐🤭🤦♂️🤗
Yes, better than a sharp stick in the eye. lol You could epoxy the outside before the install, probably save your back some. You going to try to work the dents out before installing it?
I just put my 72 roof skin on for fitment and everything lines up perfect front to back. When the skin is sitting down flush in the drip rail on the driver side, the passenger side down in the drip rail is raised a 1/16 or so. If I push it down/let it settle on the passenger side, it raises the driver side a 1/16th. There's no way I can weld that in. Do you have any recommendations on how to "stretch/flair" the skin wider so I can get this thing to sit down in both drip rails? Thank you.
T McGee have you tried clamping the driver’s side down with multiple clamps, then pulling the passenger side down flush with clamps causing it to stretch and pull down ?
@@MrFireman164 I might need to give it a little more force when trying to clamp the passenger side. I'm being cautious as I don't want to dent/miss shape the skin as I got lucky and got a good looking aftermarket skin.
Pretty sure that tab is an indexing tool. We formed aircraft skins with a process called hydroforming. The blank flat part was pinned to a form tool with the desired profile. Then a machine with an oil filled bladder at very high pressure would form the part to the tool. The tabs/pins kept the part from moving. Not sure why there is no tab on the other side, but that may be why your part has some imperfections. I like vanilla!
Could one of the reasons you sometimes have issues focusing be that you're trying to take the camera too close to what you're trying to show us? I mean, sometimes it's definitely a problem with the camera looking at something completely different, but sometimes it feels like it's just not even able to focus how you want it to.
Have to replace right side drip rail and this shows me how far I need to lift the roof to access the whole rail. Great video as usual. 👍🤙😃
Impressed with your skills Rog! Excellent tips from you & your followers. Don't forget Ryan's half gallon of vanilla ice cream!
nun ya thanks and now way cause I’m going to help him eat it
Thank you for posting. I got to do all this to my 68Z.
"Thank God for aftermarket parts...now I'm gonna bitch about 'em." This has been my mantra for the last 5 years, LOL! It's amazing when you buy an AMD panel and it fits perfect then, the next AMD panel requires hours of work to make it usable.
perfect timing on doing a replace and install on roof. I cut off roof panel also on my car along with rear quarters. Hopefully i can pick up on a few pointers watching your videos. when i got the roof i was wondering what the tabs were for too, other than hanging hooks maybe
camaro69ss350 you will learn something for sure , how not to do it is one option that is a possibility 😮
Nice work sir :)
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for the tips.
indyme2 👍
getting close there Roger, when the roof is on, it's almost time to move in....loll
Seb yes !
Hey there. Found you on Novatazz cutom shout out stream...…...And you happen to have one of my fave cars...LOL
Camaro Time cool
Your the man 💪🏻💪🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸😎😎
Could you please tell me if you can buy a roof skin that has the drip rails already attached to it. Fixing to start working on mine and know it will need drip rails. Just wondering if you could buy it all as one piece. Thank you.
a Idea for removing the rust from inside the A pillars ....cut a access hole on the top or bottom, use a long bristle bottle brush dipped in rust converter (I use ospho), let dry, then coat with a paint like por15 or such, fold back the hole flap and weld....don't give up
I like it
Ya know Roger If it were me I would install the roof with panelbond adhesive and weld. The Panel Adhesive would also be a seam sealer so to speak. I would just leave the edpm coating inside but I would prob sand the roof down with 240 get most of the edpm coating off and make damn sure there was no rust hiding under the coating. But in general I like the roof. Looks doable lol
I like the adhesive in the drip rail idea , there will be plenty of weld around the perimeter
the roof skin may be considered a structural panel on this car. adhesive bonding/gluing the roof on may not provide the flexibility for a unibody car. I dont know. It may work fine. I know it would work on a chevelle with a full frame. Camaro..... Im not sure.
For such a large piece it's not too bad. But like you said, extra work to make it perfect.
wyattoneable yes sir
Really nice video Roger. Didn’t know that lead was used at the A post. At least the roof panel wasn’t folded like a taco 🌮 and stuffed in the box 📦
Just saying...🤔🧐🤭🤦♂️🤗
R & J Restoration Station thanks , so fun
What about the rust in between the roof or support rail & all the other metal pieces
Robert White it’s not rust these days it’s patina ! 🤣
Lots of work.
yes sir
Big models now 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🏁🏁🏁🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
does the roof panel side under the quarter panel sail
Robert White nope goes right on top
E-coat is your friend! Never strip it off unless you’re welding! Best thing that you have for a base. !
David Conley unless there is rust under it lol
will you show us working your roof panel
Robert White yep
Very nice work there Roger. However I Think it might be time to invest in a new pair of gloves.
Tom Noble lol
Who made that roof panel
Otis Reynolds amd
Yes, better than a sharp stick in the eye. lol You could epoxy the outside before the install, probably save your back some. You going to try to work the dents out before installing it?
Yes i will so I can get to the back side with my dolly
I just put my 72 roof skin on for fitment and everything lines up perfect front to back. When the skin is sitting down flush in the drip rail on the driver side, the passenger side down in the drip rail is raised a 1/16 or so. If I push it down/let it settle on the passenger side, it raises the driver side a 1/16th. There's no way I can weld that in. Do you have any recommendations on how to "stretch/flair" the skin wider so I can get this thing to sit down in both drip rails? Thank you.
T McGee have you tried clamping the driver’s side down with multiple clamps, then pulling the passenger side down flush with clamps causing it to stretch and pull down ?
@@MrFireman164 yes. The skin makes contact with the drip rail support/curve before it lays down flat in the actual rail.
@@MrFireman164 I might need to give it a little more force when trying to clamp the passenger side. I'm being cautious as I don't want to dent/miss shape the skin as I got lucky and got a good looking aftermarket skin.
T McGee yeah for sure, I have not run into that issue
@@MrFireman164 Thank you for the quick replies. I've learned a lot from your channel and appreciate the videos.
Strip it 😎😎😎
Yeah, that's pretty nice I would say. No dents in the middle of the panel. That would suck.
asicerik yes , any dents in a roof skin suck however I have then they are in a good spot
Had a new roof put on my 68 too, guys missed the missing pins for the molding clips, windshield went in. So i'm like.......
Yeah they make then now that you can drill a small hole and screw them in anywhere you want them
For a half gallon of ice cream I'll tell you what that tab is for!!
Lol , Im in !
Pretty sure that tab is an indexing tool. We formed aircraft skins with a process called hydroforming. The blank flat part was pinned to a form tool with the desired profile. Then a machine with an oil filled bladder at very high pressure would form the part to the tool. The tabs/pins kept the part from moving. Not sure why there is no tab on the other side, but that may be why your part has some imperfections. I like vanilla!
Could one of the reasons you sometimes have issues focusing be that you're trying to take the camera too close to what you're trying to show us? I mean, sometimes it's definitely a problem with the camera looking at something completely different, but sometimes it feels like it's just not even able to focus how you want it to.
Jan Martin Mathiassen could be for sure
More than one way to remove paint.
yes sir, not the best way but one way :)
But it is cut it down and make it a convertible they didn't have too many converter words Camaros and 68 plus it'll be worth twice as much