Nice engine stand Allan. This is something that I need to do build a run in stand. Thanks for sharing all of your build and options. Have a great day. Take care, Ed.
AG, my friend built one similar to yours. He also puts transmissions on it to make sure everything is right and checks the high gear pressure on power glides that he builds...
When I was building a few performance engines and selling a lot of used engines I built a folding test stand . I used a manual trans bellhousing at the rear and 1” thick wall square tubing for the side mount verticals. The base was 2x3 x.250 angle iron sides with 2” thick wall round tubing fore and aft. It was all scrapyard stuff from the scrapyard across the street from my shop.
Here are some ideas for guys that want to build their own. Make it taller than this one. There is no need to be bending over ! The engine should be at a comfortable height for building up a short block. I say that because I got in the habit of taking a newly assembled short block off the engine stand and putting it on the test stand. The test stand is much more stable than an engine stand due to the larger footprint. When torquing the heads you can stand on the test stand base and not have to fight with an engine stand trying to roll away from you. You just finish putting the engine together on the test stand and install the radiator and hook up the wires and fire it up.
One day I will get back to work on my run stand. So far I'm into it cheap, lots of freebies and leftovers helped me to get it mostly complete. I'm literally building mine to sell spare engines that I have. I'll likely sell the run stand when I'm done with it.
I like that engine stand. I like what you did with it. I think I will definitely get me one for my Ls3 swap to run it and break it in and check it out before I put the engine in the car. Thank you sir.
I've only built two engines, both over 25 years ago. On the second engine, I splurged at the last moment and bought an Accel "blueprinted" distributor and a vacuum secondary Holley 650 spreadbore to replace my Quadrajet. Summit only listed two 650 spreadbores. Vacuum (labeled emissions), and a double pumper. My truck wasn't seeing any track time, so for a daily driver, I wanted vacuum secondaries. Since the discussion is mostly about startup and maybe first time startup, I have some advice. If possible, use a known working carb and distributor for break in. Startup is a bit scary for a novice because of the worries about breaking in the cam, so you want your ducks in a row. Mine weren't, but the engine broke in fine. My two issues were a broken/cracked carbon button in the "blueprinted" distributor and my carb choice. On the 650 "emissions" carb, I discovered later, the idle air adjustment screws are ass backwards, meaning clockwise RICHENS the mixture. 😖 The second issue with these carbs are that screws adjust the fuel air mixture in the idle hole AND the transfer slot at the same time. The two circuits are connected and can't be adjusted separately. Good mileage = stumbling idle. Good Idle = a 1mpg loss. Anyway, starting my new build with a known working carb and distributor would have been a much much better choice.
Thanks Randy, i always first start with the same 650 carb you see in my videos on the test stand. I have used many Bravex HEI distributors right out of the box and they always work. The first start is critical. AG
2 Golds garage very nice you don't mind me asking a question what is the size box tubing for the bottom Of the engine stand and the vertical piece that holds the bellhousing brackets? I want to say Thank you for sharing your experience and techniques on engine building from top to bottom from a-z and sharing your knowledge do it absolutely the right way thank you😎❤🙏🇱🇷
Hello Walter. The main frame red part is 2" square tubing and the vertical black part is 1-1/4" inch square tubing. Hope this helps and good luck on your project. AG
Hi, Bob here in Leavenworth KS again. I got most of the test stand put together. I noticed the mounting pipes for the motor mounts are too long. I think the easy solutions to cut off a bit off each end. I thought I would check with you and make sure I am not missing something. I hope to have a video of my stand soon. I found a radiator/fan combo in eBay that is pretty nice. About $175. Hope you have a great day.
My thought would be to make the motor mounts adjustable for different engines. If you are using pipe, cut it from the top, then use another pipe inside or outside of that pipe. You can then drill through both pipes and use a 1/4" or 5/16" bolts to locate different heights. I use this concept, except I have square pipe. Hope this helps. i can show this in a future video if you want. AG
About that broken engine. I had an "almost" on my first engine build. I had a manual choke on my truck. On the carbs choke arm, I made a spring dampened bracket for the cable connection. It required tightening two small set screws. I used a 1 1/2" long knurled handle, brass sewing machine screwdriver. I was cleaning everything up getting ready to fire the engine. .......I couldn't find the little screwdiver. I rolled the truck back to look on the floor, then above the transmission, the top of the frame.... Everywhere! .....then I climbed into the engine bay and looked down into the primary throttle plate of the Quadrajet for the SECOND time... Nope, it wasn't there. So I pushed down on the air door and saw the little screwdriver laying down on the secondary plates. 😱 I was NOT going to start the engine until I found that screwdriver.
@@goldsgarage8236 well, I'm no chemist, but I do.know that brass Isn't a fuel or an oxidizer. 😁 The more I looked, the more scared I got to start the engine.
Just subscribed. Great video! What electric fuel pump did you use for the test stand? Getting ready here to fire a 355 on my home made testvstand. Thanks
Hard to believe the air cleaner stud made it past the throttle blades on that guy's car and then made the sharp turn in the intake manifold and then somehow got by the intake valve
Didn't get a kit, built from scratch and didn't have a lot money in it and friends donated some of the parts to build it and it is nice AG...
Thanks Leonard, as i said, there are many ways to do it. AG
Nice engine stand Allan.
This is something that I need to do build a run in stand.
Thanks for sharing all of your build and options.
Have a great day.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks for watching and commenting Ed. AG
AG, my friend built one similar to yours. He also puts transmissions on it to make sure everything is right and checks the high gear pressure on power glides that he builds...
Thanks Leonard, that is a good idea, I will try it sometime. AG
When I was building a few performance engines and selling a lot of used engines I built a folding test stand . I used a manual trans bellhousing at the rear and 1” thick wall square tubing for the side mount verticals. The base was 2x3 x.250 angle iron sides with 2” thick wall round tubing fore and aft. It was all scrapyard stuff from the scrapyard across the street from my shop.
Here are some ideas for guys that want to build their own. Make it taller than this one. There is no need to be bending over ! The engine should be at a comfortable height for building up a short block.
I say that because I got in the habit of taking a newly assembled short block off the engine stand and putting it on the test stand. The test stand is much more stable than an engine stand due to the larger footprint. When torquing the heads you can stand on the test stand base and not have to fight with an engine stand trying to roll away from you. You just finish putting the engine together on the test stand and install the radiator and hook up the wires and fire it up.
Thanks for the information Truth. Very helpful. AG
One day I will get back to work on my run stand. So far I'm into it cheap, lots of freebies and leftovers helped me to get it mostly complete.
I'm literally building mine to sell spare engines that I have. I'll likely sell the run stand when I'm done with it.
thanks for your comment Bluecollar. There are many ways to build a run stand. AG
Butter fingers dropping nuts in engines. Nice!
I like that engine stand. I like what you did with it. I think I will definitely get me one for my Ls3 swap to run it and break it in and check it out before I put the engine in the car. Thank you sir.
Thanks Hugh. AG
You don't need carb, distributor, water pump, starter, and headers for a run stand. You need those for the engine.
You are correct Dan, but i need them to start up my engines. AG
I've only built two engines, both over 25 years ago. On the second engine, I splurged at the last moment and bought an Accel "blueprinted" distributor and a vacuum secondary Holley 650 spreadbore to replace my Quadrajet.
Summit only listed two 650 spreadbores. Vacuum (labeled emissions), and a double pumper.
My truck wasn't seeing any track time, so for a daily driver, I wanted vacuum secondaries.
Since the discussion is mostly about startup and maybe first time startup, I have some advice.
If possible, use a known working carb and distributor for break in.
Startup is a bit scary for a novice because of the worries about breaking in the cam, so you want your ducks in a row.
Mine weren't, but the engine broke in fine.
My two issues were a broken/cracked carbon button in the "blueprinted" distributor and my carb choice.
On the 650 "emissions" carb, I discovered later, the idle air adjustment screws are ass backwards, meaning clockwise RICHENS the mixture. 😖
The second issue with these carbs are that screws adjust the fuel air mixture in the idle hole AND the transfer slot at the same time. The two circuits are connected and can't be adjusted separately.
Good mileage = stumbling idle.
Good Idle = a 1mpg loss.
Anyway, starting my new build with a known working carb and distributor would have been a much much better choice.
Thanks Randy, i always first start with the same 650 carb you see in my videos on the test stand. I have used many Bravex HEI distributors right out of the box and they always work. The first start is critical. AG
If he decides to sleeve it, make sure to rehone the cylinder next to it or at least make sure it stayed round after the sleeve is pressed in.
Good advice, thanks. AG
Im gonna build one
I hope this helps. AG
2 Golds garage very nice you don't mind me asking a question what is the size box tubing for the bottom Of the engine stand and the vertical piece that holds the bellhousing brackets? I want to say Thank you for sharing your experience and techniques on engine building from top to bottom from a-z and sharing your knowledge do it absolutely the right way thank you😎❤🙏🇱🇷
Thanks for the question Walter, I will check that out tomorrow and get back to you. AG
Hello Walter. The main frame red part is 2" square tubing and the vertical black part is 1-1/4" inch square tubing. Hope this helps and good luck on your project. AG
Hi, Bob here in Leavenworth KS again. I got most of the test stand put together. I noticed the mounting pipes for the motor mounts are too long. I think the easy solutions to cut off a bit off each end. I thought I would check with you and make sure I am not missing something. I hope to have a video of my stand soon. I found a radiator/fan combo in eBay that is pretty nice. About $175. Hope you have a great day.
My thought would be to make the motor mounts adjustable for different engines. If you are using pipe, cut it from the top, then use another pipe inside or outside of that pipe. You can then drill through both pipes and use a 1/4" or 5/16" bolts to locate different heights.
I use this concept, except I have square pipe. Hope this helps. i can show this in a future video if you want. AG
I would appreciate a video. I posted on Patzwald garage on CZcams on my progress to date. I only have a few posts but maybe more in the future!
Thanks Bob. AG
About that broken engine. I had an "almost" on my first engine build.
I had a manual choke on my truck. On the carbs choke arm, I made a spring dampened bracket for the cable connection. It required tightening two small set screws. I used a 1 1/2" long knurled handle, brass sewing machine screwdriver.
I was cleaning everything up getting ready to fire the engine.
.......I couldn't find the little screwdiver.
I rolled the truck back to look on the floor, then above the transmission, the top of the frame.... Everywhere!
.....then I climbed into the engine bay and looked down into the primary throttle plate of the Quadrajet for the SECOND time... Nope, it wasn't there.
So I pushed down on the air door and saw the little screwdriver laying down on the secondary plates. 😱
I was NOT going to start the engine until I found that screwdriver.
Good catch Randy. Can yo imagine if you didn't find it? AG
@@goldsgarage8236 well, I'm no chemist, but I do.know that brass Isn't a fuel or an oxidizer. 😁
The more I looked, the more scared I got to start the engine.
Why I don't allow others to touch my engines.
Great video Allan
Thanks Paul. AG
Just subscribed. Great video! What electric fuel pump did you use for the test stand? Getting ready here to fire a 355 on my home made testvstand. Thanks
Thanks Lory, The pump is Mr. Gasket 12V #12S. You can buy them at most auto parts stores, works great. AG
Hard to believe the air cleaner stud made it past the throttle blades on that guy's car and then made the sharp turn in the intake manifold and then somehow got by the intake valve
Hard to believe but true, If I didn't see it myself, I wouldn't believe it. AG
Just subbed
2 x 5.0 F150`s
5.0 fairlaine
Winnebago 6.5 GM RV
4.0 Jeep and 4 harleys
Rob
NSW
AUSTRALIA
Welcome Australia, 13years. Thanks' for subscribing. AG
lots going on at Gold's Garage
Thanks Alex, with your help, thank you. AG
Where is the build? This is just a history lesson.... ffs.
So much talking and not enough doing, had to ffw half way just to get to the meat and potatoes