Milwaukee M18 Metal Cutting Circular Saw 2982-20 Unboxing & Review
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Lets look at this new M18 metal cutting circular saw. I preordered this thing and have had it for 3 days now. I like it.
This video is an unboxing, first impression, & review.
Enjoy!
If you dropped the depth a bit further so there's less tooth contact with the material it would reduce the drag on the blade making it cut quicker, easier and increase battery life.
Thanks for the in depth review.
It seems to be one of those tools that you let spin up and let it ease its way through. Man it they had a bevel capability it would be great for weld prep on plates. 30 degree would be all you would need. Looks like a solid tool I will have to put one on the wish list.
It is. The difference between feeding the right amount and forcing it is so small. It definitely takes a feel.
It takes a 8.0 🔋! Perhaps you need to buy bigger batteries for it! 😂🤔😱
That plunge cut lever- wish that was on every circular saw. Nice video.
Yes. It does scare the shit out of me to plunge in thick steel.
that thing suck down batteries like I suck down beers!....good video man!
My saw like this is on order.Great demo!Have the plug in model-NICE!
Great video/review. Not sure why someone would give it a thumbs-down.
I think ppl use the up/down to try to direct their personal YT recommendations.
@@texacajundiyhrmm, I suppose it could. Didn't think of that. But youtube could see it as a reaction...reaction is engagement, regardless of up or down thumbs?
Yeah. If it gets a reaction it’s worth showing to someone else.
According to a dyno test, the higher ah batteries actually will give you a little more power. Cannot argue with the numbers even after an hour.
Nice review. I'm impressed. Thanks for the video.
Thank you.
I only wish it had a clear covering down where the blade meets the metal like the newer smaller one
example:backup for computors,take out the small battery 12v-7amps that give you about 15 minutes,,and replace it with a car battery 12v-80amps and you would get about 10 times more longer,,the motor on the saw juste take the amps that it's needs to be at max speed perhaps 2amps.
Guys saying you need a 9.0 you need a 12.0. You need a cable!!! how often you ever gonna need this in cordless fabrication always involves lot of amps there always needed so buy the corded.
I like that the cordless stops when it gets in a bind as opposed to burning up or kicking back. I now have 2 9’s and 2 12’s. It’s all the juice I need. I’m a one man show.
Two things. No matter what the service manual says about blade protusion, whenever possible run at full cutting depth because your blade teeth will be at a much better cutting angle. If you’re cutting near the bottom of the blade, the teeth have to take a loooong wipe out of the metal and get full, this causing a metal galling and robbing you of power. Secondly, you need to use high output batteries on that thing. Great video
the logic in the blade stick out is due to blade life.
At full stick out only one tooth at a time is in the 3/8 material. So when the next tooth engages, you are able to take too big of a bite and have an impact on the teeth.
In practice it seems true. Tear up less blades with less stick out.
TexaCajun DIY sounds logical. We’ve tried both ways in our metal shop and (aside from safety) find that it cuts far faster with less motor load at full depth. I can’t say blade life is an issue, although maybe it would be better if we didn’t. As far as batteries though, man you gotta try out the 6,8 or 12 ah high output batteries. They are the ticket for power on big motor stuff. I have the 6” cordless grinder and the difference between the 5 and 6 is basically life and death. The reason for that is the high output batteries have 21700 high amp discharge rate cells and the 5,9 ah etc; only have 18650 standard amperage discharge cells. My grinder claims 13 amp corded power;bear with my poor calculations here: 13aX120v=1560 watts. 1560w:-18v=86 Amp discharge rate. There’s a lot of variables there but that’s some crazy amperage
Yeah I got a 2 pack of the 6.0 HO’s. Overt difference.
I’ve build 4 things using plate since making this video. 1/4 stick out is too shallow in 3/8. Like you said, it’s slow and hard on the tool.
My theory is this: The stick out needs to be whatever it needs to be to have 2-3 teeth in the material, but no more. So like in 1” plate you can go full stick out, in 3/8 plate it’s like 1/2” stick out. That gives good speed, low motor load, and prevents the single tooth blade impact deal.
It seems that about 3/4 is the full stick out number. In other words, if you are cutting anything(square, round, beam,etc) if it is thicker than 3/4” then full stick out works fine.
TexaCajun DIY how is the battery life with the 6ah on the big saw? Thinking I want to get one for our shop
Built a 4x4 table out of 2” square 1/8 wall and a 3/8 top (I use a lot of 3/8 plate). Cut all legs and braces and the top on one battery. Still had 2 bars.
For a mom&pop shop I’d see this as a life changing purchase as cost per cut is a ton of fabrication overhead. However, For a big production operation with shears and Cnc breaks, I bet it gets pulled out for an odd job, but otherwise remains a shelf queen.
This is a tool that is really designed to be used with the h.o. batteries. You can get away with a 5.0 if you have to but even the 9.0 hd will overheat. I only have 6.0ho and 9.0hd batteries and the 6.0ho doesn't overheat but the 9.0hd does.
Yeah, I picked up a 2-pack of the HO 6.0’s. Haven’t had to use the saw yet, but I’m better equipped now.
I kind of like that this review happened with only the xc 5.0’s. Let ppl see the ability.
I need this! But I also need to cut aluminum. Will this saw do that without issue?
Great review! I’ve been eyeing this saw and will probably pick one up soon!
I’ll be building a little roller cart and a leg vise stand in the next week. I bought 2 high output batteries to go with it. Based on how it does with the standard batteries it should be impressive.
Man, that's gonna destroy those 5.0 batteries, heat is not their friend.
Pretty damn tempting to buy though, wish it was a bit cheaper... over $600 with taxes in canada...
Great review though, thanks 👍
Thanks sir.
yeah I’ll get a 12.0 soon.
High demand batteries are gona make s hugh difference on this tool id say
Yeah that overheating is a problem on anything more than about 15 inches on 3/8 plate. I use that a ton cause I can get scrap 3/8 pretty often.
What is the difference in the 2982-20 and the 2982-21 besides price? Can't find a clear advantage
The 21 has an 8.0 HO battery and charger. The 20 is the bare tool.
If you don’t have any HO batteries or could use another charger, the price for the 21 is fair. If you don’t need the charger though, cheaper to buy the battery and tool separate.
5 amps,9amps make no different, just a longer time cutting
Can you try cutting some 2 3/8 oil pipe? Could be super handy for fencing
Great machines. I'm just stopping at 13 minutes and interesting you are mentioning no difference between the 9 amp to the 5 amp hour battery. Just run time.
Metabo line of batteries were bringing out 7 amp hour and then 8 amp hour batteries.
Later a slim 4 amp hour battery came out and a high energy output 5.5 amp hour for say angle grinders and high energy demand tools.
The angle grinder under load the 4 amp hour stopped and the 8 amp hour kept going so too the 5.5 amp hour. I'm not sure the configuration of the metabo batteries. I'm sure after patenting other manufacturers will follow suit. Milwaukee certainly set the precedence of a larger cold cut saw. I have the Panasonic cold cut saw 14.4 volt 136 mm blade, Hilti 160mm cold cut saw and now a metabo 160mm cold cut saw. The Hilti is 3.3 amp hour 21.6 volt. The cuts are slightly out of true 90degree when checking cuts with an engineer square. More straight than the Panasonic where the square is about 1mm out. The Hilti is about .5 mm out and the metabo is about .3 or .4 mm out so not a true 90degree cut.
I don't think I can get any better considering the blade is 1.8 mm thick.
I'm not sure there is no adjustment. It struck me the metabo has a stainless steel base and riveted on like you mentioned the Milwaukee has and mentioning the rivets may break. The Hilti has been a good saw and done a lot of work. The Panasonic is also very good although it doesn't let me know how much battery life is remaining and lack power on say 3mm wall thickness hollow tube. In saying that no problem with pergola tube which os 1.6mm.
One battery of my Hilti recently died it no longer charges. That the reason I got the metabo as I had batteries also it can run on a track. Good for cutting sheet goods.
Ronald the “high energy” or “high output” or whatever the particular mfg calls their product basically runs not only more cells parallelled they also run bigger cells. It’s not just a longer running battery, it’s also a higher amp battery.
In the video I was referring to going to a larger battery of the same series. In Milwaukee, that would be the base XC red lithiums.
I recently picked up a 2-pack of 6.0AH High Output batteries. It’s basically a completely different battery. More power, just don’t drop it on the pinky toe.
TexaCajun DIY ha ha those batteries will hurt if you drop them on your pinky toe. Especially when you get out of bed and have a look at the batteries. So Milwaukee are producing special cell batteries bigger cells unlike the batteries you were mentioning. I think I seen the new Milwaukee batteries at the tool shop on the weekend although I didn't ask what they were. Thanks for the reply.
Oh, check out mafell plunge saw. I think perhaps Milwaukee copied the enclosed style of blade cover from mafell. Although for steel like you mentioned a lot of particles were on the floor.
@@ron1martens My memory is a bit fuzzy, but I think there was a product specialist/engineer/designer who left Mafell to go to Milwaukee.
ChrisCas - Tool Aficionado very interesting Chris. I was told metabo and mafel have collaborated and there will be a mafel style plunge saw coming out with the same guide rails. Maybe it was that as a tool man told me who had been attending the presentations.
From what I was told Milwaukee are not in a hurry to bring out the plunge saw. I could be wrong.
I spoke to a Milwaukee rep ( come to think of it) The rep told me a plate compactor could be on the cards. I was told the bigger batteries produce 72 amp hour although he didn't know how many volts.
Back to metabo I didn't mention the guide rail will be the same as mafel and the Bosch. That is different to festool. Don't know when this will come out to Australia though. We seem to be a year behind USA and some tools we just don't get.
Thanks for your comment. I will keep and eye on it.
about how much did you spend on yours
I have an older mode m18l saw looking in to another
it was 320.00 I like it better than the corded cause there is no cord to snag and it stops if it gets in too big of a bind to protect itself.
@@texacajundiy yeah the 1 i have now was not at all so pricey it was like $99.00plus tax at the home depot a few years ago
I do see they improved it a great deal the 1 i have has nothing on it like the new guy looking forward to try it now my next question is were did you get yours I looked at the Amazon web site and there's is close to $4$ and the home depot much the same
please do tell
Unfortunately I got it on a preorder special. 399.00 is the price now. On EBay there are a few that are 360.00 (likely factory referbs).
can you put a link for those blades cannot find them anywhere
Ask me how I know. My goodness I recently cut my finger and lost a little nerve sensation using sacotors. I got a bit close cutting branches after I really sharpened blades.
Nice video presentation. Since cutting can you see the light when it over loads?
The Hilti cuts out on overload same with the Panasonic. Although the Milwaukee did cut out. Do you think making a sound is an option or beeping?
These machines certainly cut better than angle grinders and more versatile than a heavy friction saw.
What about true square if you check with an engineer square?
When the camera is off I can see the light fine. It’s in an intuitive spot too, watching the cut and the saws relationship to the guide; it’s hard to miss. We get a bit acrobatic to make for good TV.
As for square in “Z”, I’d say 3/16th out in a foot using the angle guide stamped on the saw. That’s a good enough fit for most, but if you need better, gotta turn it over and use a square to set it, like a table saw. Dang good question. I should have answered that in the video.
Hello maybe you can answer my question since I can't find anyone else that has run into this. Do you think this could cut steel that has upward or downward bow without pinching the blade? We occasionally cut steel with bow that likes to pinch our nibbler. Usually 1/4 plate
I know what you mean. Just like the nibbler, this will get pinched as the bow relaxes and the edges fall inward.
Put the forklift tines down on the plate to flatten it... or your fattest employee!
@@texacajundiy Thank you for the reply. Definatly considering trying one
Bought this saw and compared it to my dewalt 577 circular saw with a diablo steel blade and to be honest i couldnt excuse the spending of this saw when the 577 with the diable blade did as good as this saw. So i returned it
Interesting.
How thick was material?
How did it do with chips?
What blade model?
A regular circular saw spins way to fast and doesnt have enough torque. It is not designed to cut metal. As a metal worker, we’ve been down this road.
your blade isnt appreciating that shallow depth of cut, theres no need to match the depth to the work thickness its actually better to have the saw full depth if you can.. think about the angle of how the blade is swooping through the material, on full depth its coming up almost vertical and only cutting 3/8"-1/2" on each pass and pulling the saw into the work making it stable, on the shallow depth of cut its coming in much more horizontal and making a long pass/chip through the material making say a 3/4" cut in this 3/8" material, can cut an inch in with each depth and stop pull the saw out and look at the area of steel thats been cut youll see the difference and with more of the force pushing back at you and little force pulling down its alot less stable,
lastly the full depth blade sticking through the material acts as its own guide and keeps you going straight through the material not wondering side to side
Your way cuts quicker. My way spares the teeth as more teeth are engaged to the work at any time. Less “impact”, if you will.
Since the kerf is thinner than the teeth, 2-3 teeth in the cut will actually keep you straighter than the kerf, but a guide wins over all.
HD battery's can put out more
the comment on a 9.0 not providing more power than a 5.0 is just wrong.. it has 3 sets of 5 cells each set being similar to that of the 2 sets in the 5.0 and therefore having 50% more juice to rush in with.. a 5.0 vs a standard 6.0 (not the HO 6.0) would be similar in how powerful the tool is its still two banks of 18650s but the 6.0 chemistry would allow longer run time, the HO batteries use 21700 cells which are larger and each row can output more amps at any moment compared to any 18650.. theres alot of chemistry and trade offs in the cells but tool companies maintain a good split between runtime and output as its a trade off between the two
The issue here IS current. Those 18650’s just won’t do it. They will overheat and peter out. Have to have the higher amp cells.
@@texacajundiy well yes it is current, 21700s are vastly better due to their size than 18650s at current output.. but my point was a 9.0vs a 5.0 the 9.0 has 50% more cells in parallel so theres no doubt it will output more current than a 5.0
Man those 9.0’s still get too hot too quick & die out. On the tools with larger motors they just don’t offer any appreciable advantage.
They likely would in a hand drill.
I get the theory on paralleled batteries. I’m just telling you, mag drill, they get hot and die, they just do it a little later.
@@texacajundiy yes theyre a little better than the 5.0s.. they wont change the game but its a decent difference and the 12,0s are that much better than the 9.0s.. i use the circ saw an angle grinder an the 9.0 makes all the difference between useable and having to baby the cuts
Now this is some ol’man stuff but I like the 5.0’s on the grinder cause when it starts running slow that means it’s time to get a little coffee.
Try Diablo disk
Can u add wood blade?
The arbor is standard so yes.
It spins slower so finish cuts may be a bit rough.
need a 12.0 on it... not a low demand 5.0
Agree, but this thing is still getting it done with the 5.0!
@@texacajundiy torally agree, but its having to ramp back up instead of cleanly evacuating chips and maintaining blade speed, any deviation or anything short of perfect feed throws it off
HD battery would allow for all these to simply power through
I like the toy esta muy chingon o mamalon 😁🍻👍🏻
I can read; therefore you don't explain anything that's on the 📦!🤦🏾😂
Not everyone can.