MANDATORY MODS! DR-Z400 Clutch Switch Bypass Ignition DIY - SUZUKI DRZ
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- čas přidán 17. 02. 2015
- How to bypass that annoying clutch switch on the Suzuki DR-Z400 series bikes for the ignition so you can start the bike in neutral without having to pull the clutch lever in.
RUMOR DEBUNKING TIME: Every so often, someone will leave a comment that "bypassing the clutch switch this way would result in power loss." That is simply not true. There is no relationship between the clutch lever interlock switch and the CDI or CPU if you want to call it that. The clutch switch simply interrupts the circuit between the start button and the starter relay. Might be true for some vehicles but not Suzuki DRZ400S SM or E. There IS an issue with carb solenoid valve equipped DRZ's where the neutral switch on the SHIFT DRUM does send a signal to the CDI and it does affect power in lower gears, but only on models equipped with a carb solenoid valve (US and Canada models DO NOT HAVE CARB SOLENOID VALVES.) Again, the clutch lever switch isn't part of the electrical system that is dealing with the neutral position switch on the shift drum talking to the CDI box, talking to the CARB SOLENOID VALVE equipped models of the DRZ. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Someone put a post up earlier today (which I deleted) that claimed bypassing the clutch switch this way would result in power loss. That is simply not true. There is no relationship between the clutch lever interlock switch and the CDI or CPU if you want to call it that. The clutch switch simply interrupts the circuit between the start button and the starter relay. Might be true for some vehicles but not the Suzuki DRZ400. There is an issue with carb solenoid valve equipped DRZ's where the neutral switch on the SHIFT DRUM does send a signal to the CDI and it does affect power in lower gears, but only on models equipped with a carb solenoid valve (US and Canada models DO NOT HAVE CARB SOLENOID VALVES.) And again, even if they did, the clutch switch isn't part of that system. That system is dealing with the neutral position switch on the shift drum talking to the CDI box, talking to the CARB SOLENOID VALVE equipped models.
true its just a inhibitor to the starter solinoid has nothing to do with the CDI unit, (some people are experts on google ) LOL
Now that's how you make a how-to video. No dumb music or shaky cams. Good job!
Great illustration, I could not start my bike due to the clutch wire becoming loose at the lever-- It
took a few minuets to find the problem...the bypass was an easy fix !!!
Thanks WheeliePete, that was a wheelie good tutorial. I did the same to my 2020 400sm, only issue was it took about 5 trips out before i stopped pulling the clutch lever. Good old muscle memory.
This worked for my 1983 GN125. Removed the headlight with the two side screws, traced the clutch switch wire and found an identical set up shown here. Thanks for the video!
THANK YOU. My '06 DR-Z 400 wouldn't start after a simple handlebar swap. After reading somewhere that the clutch and kickstand safety switches are a common point of failure, I found this video and MAN-O-MAN did you save me a lot of time! Fired right up after bypassing the switch with the bullet connectors.
If you haven't seen it yet, I also have a video on dealing with the kickstand switch: czcams.com/video/tluPLT5ZEHE/video.html
@@WheeliePete I have now. I'll tackle that when I have garage time next (apartment living. What can I say).
Brilliant. Took about 5 minutes to do.
Nice tutorial, 2020 DRZ400S connections are different unfortunately. Cut and spliced together like the kickstand bypass.👍
Both the clutch and side stand cut out switch are the source of an amazing number of hard to diagnose intermittent faults... typically manifesting as unwillingness to start. This problem affects high mileage bikes and older bikes more. Wires either come loose, get damaged or the switch fails?
I remember it took years to work out why my Yamaha XJ600 didn't like to start (lots of spark, lots of fuel, lots of compression) and then to work up the guts to fix it. I tracked it down to a faulty cutout (probably on the neutral?)... which required cutting into the central wiring loom near a junction box (a nerve racking experience unless you're good at reading circuit diagrams?). The local bike electrician kept saying locate the problem wire and cut it... but when I asked him to do it or to help me locate the problem wire... he suddenly became very reticent. The bike started perfectly after that simple fix (was very hard to start prior to this).
Simplest way to avoid these problems is to bypass these switches?
The more cut-outs you have the more likely this problem will occur early in your bikes lifespan?
100% of my bikes have exhibited these problems sooner or later.
Pity as these switches serve a useful purpose?
However being unable to start is much worst than accidentally starting the bike while it's in gear?
That was a particularly clear explanation. Nicely done.
:-)
That was great! Make more. I just got a 2018 drz400 bought a 440 bbk ... fcr carby ...yashi full exaust... stage 1 cams... rear shock spring... front cartrage emulators w/ progressive springs yikes im gonna b busy
Excellent instructional video, really well made, thank you!
well done WheeliePete your video helped me out .you covered all points .
Great video man!!!! Thank you!
This was the first mod I did to my DRZ when I bought it in 2006.
Thanks man i own a Klx 250 And i wanted to buy a after market clutch sooo thank you soooo much
Brilliant vid! Saved me time and money. Thanks for that
Thanks for the mod tip! Subscribed!
Followed from Thumpertalk. Thanks!
Great video, thanks!
Great video!
does this work for a katana 600? I can't find a video on here that says otherwise.
THANKS!
Awesome. Already did the kickstand mod as you described. Going to do this next. Any advice on the start/kill switch? I have an issue that seems to happen when I turn the bike off with the kill switch. When I come back from inside the store / gas station to start up again, it won't start at all. Seems like it fixes itself when I click the kill switch once or twice and then the start switch. Strange eh?
Might be some gunk on the contacts inside that switch (or it's just wearing out). Not sure if you can disassemble that enough to get in there and mess with it. As a rule I never use the kill switch on my bikes for stopping the engine unless it's a real emergency (like the bike decides to take a dirt nap and the engine is still running.) The ignition switch at the key is way more robust so that's what I use for on/off duties. I've heard of folks having the issue with the kill switch starting to do what you describe when it gets used a lot. Electrical gremlins are some of the more frustrating things to deal with on a bike.
thanks man
Hey +WheeliePete , what bark busters are you rocking here? I need some that wont interfere with my LED Aux lights, and these look perfect. Thanks~!
+aseredy They are just the factory hand guards. They don't do much except keep the wind and whipping branches off my hands. They bend all over the place in a crash, not a lot of "protection" for the levers or my hands... I'm trying to decide which full wrap guards to replace them with.
Well if you find any.. Please let us know. I tried some cheap $20 hand guards off of ebay... and they sucked so much, I think my bike got cancer.
Thanks Pete
hey I did the connection and removed the clutch wire.what wires do i have to cut and splice together I can't tell which one to cut and do the splice.
You don't have to cut and splice anything if you have the bullet connectors, you just connect them together as shown. If you have the square plug style connector then you just need to cut wires off after (or before) the plug and solder them together. The DR-Z400 series bikes all have two wires running to the clutch switch in the clutch lever. You are simply bypassing that switch by connecting the wires together at some point before the physical switch in the clutch lever.
my crf 450x wont start when its in gear, would this mod work for me?
Sorry, don't know anything about the CRF 450's but if you have a clutch switch that's what's probably keeping it from starting in gear. We bypassed the clutch switch on my brother's KLR 650 and it saved him the other day when his clutch cable broke and he had to bump start it in gear and drive it home shifting without the clutch. Just remember, if you bypass the clutch switch you WILL be able to start the bike in gear, but you'll probably only do that once...
I dunno about this.. useful in a way but risky like disabling kickstand cutout.
I am a bit of an airhead on the bike at times though so I like the cutouts to me make sure I am paying attention when starting.
+74KU The DR-Z400 doesn't have enough snort to take off out from under you if you do try to start it in gear. It'll lurch forward and you might dump it, but it's not like its going to take off. You'll only do it once. ;-) I've really enjoyed the utility of not having to pull the clutch to start the bike (like when I'm holding something and I've only got one hand free, or when I'm standing on the right side of the bike doing mechanical work and need to start it, etc.) Suzuki spec'd a REALLY bright green light for the clutch so your eye just gets trained to look for that light before you hit the starter button. As for the kickstand, that switch being there is actually a safety hazard in my book. I spend a LOT of time off-road and if you bounce the bike hard enough the kickstand can bounce down and the switch will cut the bike out momentarily and then, since you're still moving forward, bumpstart itself, which will then jerk the bike forward unpredictably.
+WheeliePete The nice part about this mod in the video is that it's fully and quickly reversible if you decide it's not for you.
WheeliePete
I can certainly see the benefits of it, just not for me being I can be a tad distracted when starting up first thing in the day.
+WheeliePete The kickstand switch removal was an absolute must for me. I ride off-road a lot and I found that when I would stand on the pegs my heel would push on the kickstand and activate the switch.
My drz accelerate only 3000-4000 rpm and Max speed 80-90 klm/h and the half throttle to end is dead, why?
My knee jerk reaction was worn out clutch, but that usually manifests by RPMs going up without accompanied acceleration. My next thought would be to check and make sure the air filter isn't completely plugged with gunk (check the easy stuff first). Check and make sure the throttle cable(s) aren't bound up or out of adjustment limiting range of motion to the throttle linkage on the carb. After you've checked all the easy, external stuff, tear into the carb and make sure the slide, diaphragm, jets, etc. are in working order. I would hit up dedicated DRZ forums online also. Thumpertalk.com has a good, helpful forum: www.thumpertalk.com/forums/forum/17-drz400essm/
Jis style heads*
There Japanese industrial standard not Phillips screws JIS screwdrivers should be used
You're correct, however most people (here in the US) don't have a set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) drivers. I was trying to keep it (the video) simple and short, but I should have mentioned something about that in the video. Since that video was made I've found my favorite JIS screw drivers are the Vessel "Impacta" ones that function as a normal screw driver, but also have an impact function where you can hit the back end with a hammer and it will loosen really stuck hardware (like carburetor screws). There spendy, but awesome. I've included (below in this comment) some links to the #3 and #2 sizes that cover most everything on a bike. Link to #3 size: amzn.to/3y80euJ Link to #2 size: amzn.to/3y8udm4 (Links are Amazon affiliate links.)
Now how to get all the lights to go out for when I outrun the cops at night.
man i wish my bike started that easy
When was the last time you checked valve clearances? When they get tight sometimes it can be hard to start if a valve is hanging open slightly.
@@WheeliePete Compression is good, I don't think it's the valves. It definitely had something to do with the 1/2 gallon of gas in my oil. Now with fresh oil it will start and idle great but is bogging with throttle. I'm slowly getting there but man....I am so fucking sick of messing with carbs.
if you've got gas down in the oil then most likely the vacuum actuated petcock is leaking, filling up the carb and then spills over and gas makes its way down into the crankcase. The carb being overfull would also make it really hard to start. You can check the petcock pretty easy by just disconnecting the feed line to the carb and sticking it in a catch container and letting it sit. If working properly, in the "ON" position with the bike off there should be no gas flowing beyond what what dribbles out when you disconnect the line. Once vacuum is applied to the petcock either by turning the bike on or using a vacuum pump on the fitting, the gas should start flowing. Gas should flow in the "PRI" or prime position with or without vacuum, this is a straight flow-through setting for filling up the float bowl or getting gas if the vacuum diaphragm breaks. You don't want to leave the bike sitting in the "PRI" setting for too long if it's not running.
@@WheeliePete Way ahead of you Pete. Someone did away with the OEM petcock and vacuum lines long ago. The culprit, like usual, is myself: I left the petcock open over the weekend, basically the one thing you're not supposed to do with an aftermarket tank/petcock. Lesson learned. Of course, while I was trying to figure out what was wrong, I tore the carb apart and ended up losing the spring that holds the needle in the slide.....another week waiting for parts in the mail, smdh. Just bought a JD Jet kit (might as well, I'm waiting anyway) so at least I have that to look forward to. Can't be too greedy, it is only March afterall and I've got about 2 more weeks before my supermoto wheels come in the mail :D
@@patw9175 Good deal. Sounds like you got it figured out. These bikes are super-fun with street tires on them. Just don't attract the cops attention hooning around town, jumping curbs, etc. "Sorry officer, the clutch slipped out of my fingers and I have this huge 'ol rear sprocket I just put on..." probably only works one time...or at least I'm not going to try that excuse again...lol..