For those finding this in search of wiring Chrysler Electronic Ignitions, I think the 5 pin ignition control module is the early version with the 4 pin being the later one (Note the wiring diagrams, as the 4 pin doesn't show the ammeter/ampmeter which was deleted on later models in favor of a voltmeter). Direct Connection (Mopar Performance) guidance was just use the 4 pin version. If you have the 5 pin connector, cut the pin 3 wire back, insulate and secure in the harness. The control module does not need it. As others have noted, the ballast resistor is only needed for the "old" style ignition coils. Convert to a new style E-core ignition coil and ditch the ballast resistor all together or use the single element resistor for older style oil filled coils.
I have been through this and your description is good. Number one, with electronic ignition a resistor is not needed. Install the correct coil and you are good to go.
Hello, good day to you... Kevin from Malaysia, Meaning 2 wires connected to the ballast resistor should be connected ones the electronic distributor is installed ?
No, the "secondary" side is for the RPM sensitive "speed switch" for applications like holding the throttle open on deceleration until you drop below a certain RPM for emissions, etc. The "primary" side is the feed for the coil.
The standard points ignition uses a 10 volt coil (cold cranking voltage) and needs the resister to hold it down. If you are going electronic, get a 14 volt coil from any later ignition model car.
en mi caso yo tengo un camion dodge maquina 360 trate de eliminar la resitencia pero note que se me calentaba mucho el modulo y la bobina de encendido ademas que sentia que se forzaba el motor y mejor se la puse la resistencia de nuevo y funciono bien
The five pin is the older one. The extra pin is 5 volt or so power for the circuitry itself, off the second side of the ballast.. The four pin modules get the power internally off the 12 Volt input. The 70's mopars can use either, they are more reliable with the four pin module. You cannot use a five pin module in a four pin setup. But many aftermarket modules have four pin circuitry, and a fake fifth pin. It is not a good idea to mix ign 1 and ign 2. The one (Ign 2 I think), that is not powered during the start position of the key switch, is off during starting to prevent the alternator off, until it is up to speed, With it powered, you have the risk of electrical spikes as it picks up speed. Those spikes can damage a lot of electrical parts(Radio, ign module, to name a few). You should really research why things were made the way they were. It may work your way for 99 starts, then kill something the 100th time. Just because it works that way, does not make it a good way to do things.
If thats a 8140 coil it DOES need a ballast resistor! So says Accel. The Pertronics also needs a 1.5 ohm resistor! I bet that coil burns out after a while. If it get real warm to the touch it wont last!
I got a 89 Dodge w150 truck it came out factory with the 318 TPI fuel injection I pulled that engine out and done away with the fuel injection I put a 360 engine in it with a 600 Street warrior Holly removing that fuel injection killed the circuit to the fuel pump the coil and the charging circuit I removed the electric fuel pump from the tank and converted it to the engine mounted fuel pump because that pump in the tank didn't have any power I also had to wire an external voltage regulator to the alternator to get it to charge the 12 volt wire from the switch while running puts out 13.5 volts I wired it with a 1978 Chrysler electronic ignition about like what you have I put an MSD blaster ignition coil on it it's fried that coil in a matter of days so I've tried the Excel super stock coil in 10 minutes it heated it hot to the touch my truck is putting out 14 volts to the coil I wired a ballast resistor between the hot wire going to the plus on the coil even with that resistor it's putting out almost 14 volts to the coil with the MSD coil and the Excel coil it overheats both of those I put an old model style coil on it and it's not getting quite as hot the problem with those super coils like you're talking about they're internally resisted but at very low resistance allowing More voltage to go through the coil and with that increased voltage they get so hot they're burn you on my truck every wire that I have checked while running puts out charging voltage on my truck because that stupid computer has the only 12 volt coil wire that is constantly at or below 12 votes sadly to say my truck's stupid computer is the only thing that has that certain wire coming from it and without that TPI fuel injection working the computer kills that wire I think I'm going to wind up putting in MSD ignition system on my truck to get it to run without that stupid fuel injection that is not very powerful older model Dodge trucks have nice video thanks
On Mopar he can just tape etc. together all the wires that were going to ballast resistor (shown) because there's starter relay that handles separation of ignition "run" wire & "start wire" to do those functions. He just simplified things nicely.
Thank you @@shanew.williams ! I should have explained that, it’s good to have the how/why things work instead of just the answer. @Tom Reyn does this make sense why the starter won’t keep spinning?
@@tagsgarage4944 I took the old one out and put it back in I am going to try again next Sunday. Thanks to you I know I had a single ballast and I was using a double ballast diagram and didn’t know it
@@tagsgarage4944 I’m no mechanic just my hobby but I finally figured out I already have the electronic ignition it came on all Mopar v-8s in 1972 in California only. So now I am trying to use the original distributor and am waiting for the correct dual ballast to arrive in the mail. Thanks again I am now a subscriber
I came here because Im hooking up a progression ignition distributor. (I recommend you look that up). The ballast resistor keeps the unit from getting a consistent 12v, so I needed to bypass it. I’m going to keep the mopar box a and resistor for looks. I’m going to wind up stealing the ignition 12v and wiring it to a relay that powers coil and distributor. You are saying this wiring goes to alternator? So I need to make sure ignition 1-2 get reconnected? Good info on the older coils needing the resistor. I already replaced my coil with the high vibration. My only challenge now is getting a tachometer to work from the new wire coming from distributor. How did the factory tach get a rpm signal?
Gm moduel has a larger max curent limet of 4.5 to 6.5 a and adaptive dwell. Mopar moduel is 1950s-.1960s tech! With hei 1 can run . 045+ on plug gap! Mopar is .35! Hei rocks! I am a ford man!
I did hei chevy conversion on my dodge d100 the module went bad exchanged it with one of the cheap ones runs like crap. I'm going to convert mine back I wouldn't recommend it
I'm using hei module on my dodge truck.. just for safety I'm still using my balast to positive + coil but engine has better snap and startup ...been on two years no problems
Your not completely correct! The purpose of the resistor is to reduce the voltage to the coil to about 9 volts. Different coils use different ohm resistors. If you put 12 volts into a coil that needs 9 or any amount less than 12 volts you will over heat the coil. It has nothing to do with points!
![No Spark Troubleshooting [Mopar Electronic Ignition with Ballast Resistor]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RiC8OaSXMs8/mqdefault.jpg)
![No Spark Troubleshooting [Mopar Electronic Ignition with Ballast Resistor]](/img/tr.png)
For those finding this in search of wiring Chrysler Electronic Ignitions, I think the 5 pin ignition control module is the early version with the 4 pin being the later one (Note the wiring diagrams, as the 4 pin doesn't show the ammeter/ampmeter which was deleted on later models in favor of a voltmeter). Direct Connection (Mopar Performance) guidance was just use the 4 pin version. If you have the 5 pin connector, cut the pin 3 wire back, insulate and secure in the harness. The control module does not need it. As others have noted, the ballast resistor is only needed for the "old" style ignition coils. Convert to a new style E-core ignition coil and ditch the ballast resistor all together or use the single element resistor for older style oil filled coils.
Thanks for the video.
My understanding about the coil is that you don't want to mount it on its side but rather standing tall.
Once u go HEI u never go back. COIL ON SPARK next level.
You did a great job on the video very helpful
Thank you
great video
Thank you
I have been through this and your description is good. Number one, with electronic ignition a resistor is not needed. Install the correct coil and you are good to go.
Glad it helped
That’s good info. Helps a lot.
Thank you!!!
So is it better to get rid of the lean burn system?
Hello, good day to you... Kevin from Malaysia, Meaning 2 wires connected to the ballast resistor should be connected ones the electronic distributor is installed ?
According to Chrysler the dual ballast resistor protects the pickup on one side and the module is protected by the other side.
So he’s wrong?
@@cavaleiro95 yes 👍
@@larryreagan6936 hmm ok thanks for the reply
@@cavaleiro95 no problem. Without a dual resistor you'll burn out either the pickup or the module. Parts are too expensive to do that.
No, the "secondary" side is for the RPM sensitive "speed switch" for applications like holding the throttle open on deceleration until you drop below a certain RPM for emissions, etc. The "primary" side is the feed for the coil.
What about a Petronix 40011 ignition coil? I don't know if it is internally resisted but do have electronic ignition and no points
I’ve seen where some people use the Petronix, you would just have to see if the one you purchase is internally resisted.
The standard points ignition uses a 10 volt coil (cold cranking voltage) and needs the resister to hold it down. If you are going electronic, get a 14 volt coil from any later ignition model car.
en mi caso yo tengo un camion dodge maquina 360 trate de eliminar la resitencia pero note que se me calentaba mucho el modulo y la bobina de encendido ademas que sentia que se forzaba el motor y mejor se la puse la resistencia de nuevo y funciono bien
I have a 74 duster with a harness that looks like your dart's.
We should be astronauts.
🤣
The five pin is the older one. The extra pin is 5 volt or so power for the circuitry itself, off the second side of the ballast.. The four pin modules get the power internally off the 12 Volt input. The 70's mopars can use either, they are more reliable with the four pin module. You cannot use a five pin module in a four pin setup. But many aftermarket modules have four pin circuitry, and a fake fifth pin.
It is not a good idea to mix ign 1 and ign 2. The one (Ign 2 I think), that is not powered during the start position of the key switch, is off during starting to prevent the alternator off, until it is up to speed, With it powered, you have the risk of electrical spikes as it picks up speed. Those spikes can damage a lot of electrical parts(Radio, ign module, to name a few).
You should really research why things were made the way they were. It may work your way for 99 starts, then kill something the 100th time. Just because it works that way, does not make it a good way to do things.
I have the blaster coil. I jumped my ballast to get full voltage to coil. Car ran for a minute and died. The Ignition module took a dump.
If thats a 8140 coil it DOES need a ballast resistor! So says Accel. The Pertronics also needs a 1.5 ohm resistor! I bet that coil burns out after a while. If it get real warm to the touch it wont last!
I got a 89 Dodge w150 truck it came out factory with the 318 TPI fuel injection I pulled that engine out and done away with the fuel injection I put a 360 engine in it with a 600 Street warrior Holly removing that fuel injection killed the circuit to the fuel pump the coil and the charging circuit I removed the electric fuel pump from the tank and converted it to the engine mounted fuel pump because that pump in the tank didn't have any power I also had to wire an external voltage regulator to the alternator to get it to charge the 12 volt wire from the switch while running puts out 13.5 volts I wired it with a 1978 Chrysler electronic ignition about like what you have I put an MSD blaster ignition coil on it it's fried that coil in a matter of days so I've tried the Excel super stock coil in 10 minutes it heated it hot to the touch my truck is putting out 14 volts to the coil I wired a ballast resistor between the hot wire going to the plus on the coil even with that resistor it's putting out almost 14 volts to the coil with the MSD coil and the Excel coil it overheats both of those I put an old model style coil on it and it's not getting quite as hot the problem with those super coils like you're talking about they're internally resisted but at very low resistance allowing More voltage to go through the coil and with that increased voltage they get so hot they're burn you on my truck every wire that I have checked while running puts out charging voltage on my truck because that stupid computer has the only 12 volt coil wire that is constantly at or below 12 votes sadly to say my truck's stupid computer is the only thing that has that certain wire coming from it and without that TPI fuel injection working the computer kills that wire I think I'm going to wind up putting in MSD ignition system on my truck to get it to run without that stupid fuel injection that is not very powerful older model Dodge trucks have nice video thanks
When you wire IGN 1&2 together. Doesn’t engine keep spinning the starter when you let go the key?
“IGN start” goes to the starter solenoid too.
No
On Mopar he can just tape etc. together all the wires that were going to ballast resistor (shown) because there's starter relay that handles separation of ignition "run" wire & "start wire" to do those functions. He just simplified things nicely.
Thank you @@shanew.williams ! I should have explained that, it’s good to have the how/why things work instead of just the answer. @Tom Reyn does this make sense why the starter won’t keep spinning?
Thanks I am fighting this issue with a 72 d100
Scott Durant did you get your d100 figured out?
@@tagsgarage4944 I took the old one out and put it back in I am going to try again next Sunday. Thanks to you I know I had a single ballast and I was using a double ballast diagram and didn’t know it
@@scottdurant6868 awesome, glad the video helped!
@@tagsgarage4944 I’m no mechanic just my hobby but I finally figured out I already have the electronic ignition it came on all Mopar v-8s in 1972 in California only. So now I am trying to use the original distributor and am waiting for the correct dual ballast to arrive in the mail. Thanks again I am now a subscriber
@@scottdurant6868 awesome thank you for subscribing!
I came here because Im hooking up a progression ignition distributor. (I recommend you look that up). The ballast resistor keeps the unit from getting a consistent 12v, so I needed to bypass it. I’m going to keep the mopar box a and resistor for looks.
I’m going to wind up stealing the ignition 12v and wiring it to a relay that powers coil and distributor. You are saying this wiring goes to alternator? So I need to make sure ignition 1-2 get reconnected?
Good info on the older coils needing the resistor. I already replaced my coil with the high vibration.
My only challenge now is getting a tachometer to work from the new wire coming from distributor. How did the factory tach get a rpm signal?
That accel coil has caused me problems with ignition control modules.
Gm moduel has a larger max curent limet of 4.5 to 6.5 a and adaptive dwell. Mopar moduel is 1950s-.1960s tech! With hei 1 can run . 045+ on plug gap! Mopar is .35! Hei rocks! I am a ford man!
Good to know.
Just get an msd box and you can throw hotter sparks ⚡️. Plus it would stay more true to style.
Msd is good for hi rpm and fireing fuel soked plugs! Hei is better from idel to 6000 rpm. You can mount hei moduel to heat sink and use the oe dizzy!
I see a brown wire in the bunch with the blue wires
Can u email these two diagrams?
All I did is googled mopar ignition wiring diagram
I did hei chevy conversion on my dodge d100 the module went bad exchanged it with one of the cheap ones runs like crap. I'm going to convert mine back I wouldn't recommend it
I'm using hei module on my dodge truck.. just for safety I'm still using my balast to positive + coil but engine has better snap and startup ...been on two years no problems
Your not completely correct! The purpose of the resistor is to reduce the voltage to the coil to about 9 volts. Different coils use different ohm resistors. If you put 12 volts into a coil that needs 9 or any amount less than 12 volts you will over heat the coil. It has nothing to do with points!
All this b.s. can be eliminated , including the ballast , switch to an Petronix Ignitor III . this is garbage .