I really appreciate this tutorial! I just took care of a volume & balance potentiometer that were getting to the point where the right channel would start to cut out. This video convinced me I could tackle this without a problem. Things sound great again as they should. I use my 2230 as a preamp and run 2 MC30 monoblock tube amps. it sounds sublime.
I cleaned mine today and it is now great, I had it up in my closet for 30 yrs until I read that they're going up in price due to how nice they are, so I am using it again.
I am really pleased the way you tackle and diagnose the problem. You know exactly where and what could be problem. I own a Pioneer AVR about 3 years old. It was working all right and one morning it just quit. It powers on but no sound or video output from any input devices. I paid $350 when I bought it. Now to repair it estimated cost $375. Wow.
Very informative. I just recently upgraded to the latest and greatest sound system (6 speaks, 5.1 surround sound, etc.) and so I sort of retired my Marantz 2238 receiver which I've had for 40 or more years! Anyway, I was looking to clean it up and have never opened it up, since when I needed a bulb or something I'd take it on to be changed. I'm going to set the Marantz up out in the garage with some speakers so I can hear something as I putter around out there. Thanks.
I always put a small piece of paper towel under the volume pot when getting ready to spray it. That way the excess spray doesn't drip down on everything.
Now that one is difficult. You had to insert a delivery injection fed displacement liquid into the carbon element module, this is to dissolve the original surface bound friction reducing lubricant. Next the variable potential selector is operated and displacement of the original lubricant is performed, then the base displacement liquid evaporates leaving the carbon element cleaner where the selector had contacted. Finally accurate human based audio testing proves the quality of the repair. i hope my discription covers this complex repair LOL :-D
I like the idea of using headphones rather than putting it thru speakers when it's unknown problem . Usually the customer will tell you what the symptoms are though.
Great stuff.. love the old school tuner mechanics. I've got a set of powered speakers and the volume knob is in need of the same cleaning.. Not going to be as easy as those old pots :/
I have had a MARANTZ equipment and is very clean inside some of these are class AB and the high end units are class A, is there a scratch hologram on the other side
Hey, great videos. I really enjoy watching them...I have a question for you though. I've noticed that in many of your videos, where there is a need to clean the controls, that you only clean the affected one and leave the others alone. What's the thinking behind this. My thought is since you already have the unit apart, and one of the controls has become dirty, chances are that the other controls aren't far behind. Wouldn't it make sense to give an insurance shot of Deoxit to every control so that further repair or cleaning will not be needed again in the near future... Just wondering if I'm missing something here... Thanks again for your fantastic videos!
It's time and money. Most pros don't do extra "preventative" work unless they're specifically being paid for it. Get it working and move on to the next job. He even said he had a big backlog of work. That's why it's great to learn how to do this work yourself because you can do that preventative work on your own time.
@@kennynvake4hve584 deoxit here is about 40.00 for the small can. The total I was paid for this job was 30.00. For 30.00 are you going to spend more on supplies than you have to? This amp was brought to me by a guy that got it for literally nothing. Was cleaning up an old property and it was at the back of the cabinet. Guy he was working with said get rid of that. After I had it, I got a call to say "don't do anything to it" because the owner showed up after it was removed looking for it. This was just a check over when I shot this, so I left it as it was. The guy that brought it to me had intended to do a full recap. I cleaned the control to see how it sounded and the rest would have been done when the caps were swapped but the job got stopped before I could get that far.
@@pizzanpepsi I have no problems with them coming back. I retired from the business 17 years ago and opened the shop in my garage. My customers are all repeat customers that i have had for years. They know where to go.
P.S. what I enjoy about vinyl is the interaction with the album art, liner notes, and watching the record play. Maybe vinyl doesn't sound better by itself, but the whole experience makes it more enjoyable. There are times I prefer digital when I don't feel like looking for a specific record.
I can watch my cds Play on my CD player too. IT Has acrylic Window at the top . Interaction with art and liner is also possible minus cracks and pops and with better clarity and dynamic
I don't mind people who prefer tubes, everyone has a preference but the ones who want their vintage 60's blackface Fender guitar amp to be all original including all the damn caps are awesome
That's nice! I have a Fisher amp that bit the dust 2013. It just went out suddenly while listening to music loud. I changed the blown fuse, it blew right away. I am guessing maybe an output transistor shorted.(they have outside heat sinks) I am guessing. I never tried to open it and test it. It's 39 years old. What do you think?
Hey Buddy... I have this same amplifier everything just stopped working no outputs wants so ever even with headphones no sound can you give me some ideas?? Thanks
Thanks for video. Why not give a shot of cleaner to the balance selector as well, since it was just as accessible as volume control? I figure, that would be the next control to be a problem so why not?
vinyl sounds better to me, but has to be clean and a good pressed master analog recording. Digital music will always be digital sounding and not as natural sounding as a good vinyl recording . Digital has come a long ways though and can sound pretty close.
i wish you could repair my SANSUI QRX7001 front left speaker channel gives nothing but white noise on speaker A and B only problem is i live in the UK so i am using rear left instead.
That 2230 Marantz he worked on is an excellent AB high current receiver, it easily outperforms most of the low current solid state class D amps that are low to mid priced currently. Seen them selling for $50 to $500. A lot of the old Fisher, Sansui, and Pioneer are great. The Yamaha CA 2010 (it's an amp, not a receiver) is about as good as you could ever want; I see them selling for under $600 to over $3000. You can get lucky and get a really good deal sometimes.
Dude, I have same model the right side speaker keeps goin in and out of connection, I've swapped the speakers around, and nope not speaker problem, it's the connection on the back where speakers go in. Do u have fix or advice for this problem.
My 2230 works well but the lights behind the radio frequency and VU meters are dead (only the middle one on the freq scale still works). And the power button is failing so I don't touch it; I use a power bar with an on off switch instead. Are these replacement parts still available?
My 2230 has four output transistors. All are Hitachi 2SC897. Does this mean that it is a class A amp? I thought that all class A/B push-pull amps used one npn and one pnp per channel. My 2270 has two Motorola SJ2517, and two Motorola SJ2518 outputs, and two 9000mfd 55volt caps. The 2230 has a different cap arrangement too. It has one 4700mfd 80volt, which charges to 71volts, and two 2200mfd 63volt caps that charge to 36volts. When power is disconnected the voltage drops down to zero in about a minute on both units, so I'm assuming that is normal. IS THE 2230 A CLASS A, AND THE 2270 A CLASS AB? Or is there a class A/B circuit design utilizing only a pnp or npn? I am hearing noise in the speakers when I turn the 2230 on or off. When pushed hard for a 5 minutes or so, it starts to distort, so I was thinking the caps were running out of juice because they were leaky. What do you think?
The 2230 has what's called a quasi-complementary output stage. Very common back then because it allows using two npn outputs as you found, and especially back then, good pnp power transistors were much harder to make / more expensive. Quasicomps tend to have higher distortion though, especially with no Baxandall diode being used. It's definitely not class A - alignment instructions in the service manual call for 5 mV across a 0R24 emitter resistor, which is a measly 20 mA of idle current. (Use clip leads.) What do I win for RTFSM? ;) As you found, it's an oldschool single-supply design with capacitor-coupled outputs. The 2200µ ones are the output coupling caps, the 4700µ is across the supply. Electrolytics are about the only parts that work better warm (just ask my computer - it refused to boot on the weekend, I eventually spotted a bulging cap on the board, then whipped out a hairdryer, and lo and behold, we're back in business; now I'm just putting it in standby until I've got a replacement part), so your reasoning seems off. Doesn't mean some ESR testing would be useless, of course, these are 40+ year old caps and nobody ought to be surprised if some of them are bad. You still want to make sure it's not a drooping supply under load. Could be a bad power switch or oxidized fuse holder, common enough. If supply is decently stable, I suggest you check bias, then push the unit hard, then check again. Could be a tempco problem. Now guess what, service bulletin #2 for this model details a mod "to ensure amplifier idling current stability at temperature extremes". (Obtain e.g. at HiFi Engine.) This applies to S/N up to 37800 for US models. It would seem to tackle undercompensation rather than overcompensation though. Still, might be worth implementing if it means you can up idle current a bit without risking your outputs under load, things should certainly sound better up top at a more standard 30 or 40 mA. If it's not that, it can't hurt to check for excessive leakage in the output coupling caps, bad solder joints, bad fusibles.
Come to think of it, I saw that term quasicomplementary in an old marantz 4230 service manual that I forgot I had. The 2230 seems to play fine. My speakers are klipschorn/Speakerlab K clones, at 104db@1watt I don't really get to push it.
Right I kind of figures that when I saw how they were wired up after I removed the base of the unit, but in this case I didn't need a schematic as all it needed was a volume control cleaning.
Give that record a bath. A sponge with some Dawn dish detergent, rinse, repeat. Guaranteed those crackles will close to disappear. That's dirt, not scratches.
I should show the trick I learned when I worked in broadcast when I was in college. Learned a trick from an engineer that really does deep clean records.
Loving all your work.....but please put me out of my misery...I am a retro watch fan myself, could you please let me know the model number of that awesome casio you wear? cheers for any info.
It is a Casio WV-300 using the3023 module.I have never been able to find another one. Found this one back in 2003 or 4 at Target I think. Was expensive for a Casio, over 120US, but it was exactly what I was looking for. First it is all stainless steel. That is important because I can't wear plastic or cheap metals such as zinc as I get an allergic reaction to these metals. The features of this unique watch are:First it is solar powered. The black that surrounds the display is the solar cell that recharges the internal battery. It is an "Atomic" watch, meaning it has an internal radio receiver that received the time signal every night and sets the time to the various atomic clock radio broadcasts around the world. It also has an electroluminescent panel backlight that lights the entire display up a nice green color. The crystal is also scratch resistant mineral glass. and so far it is looking pretty good despite daily wear, and bashing it into things, and scuffing it on hard surfaces on a regular basis.They only had one and I bought it. I have been looking for a second one just to keep as a spare and keep it pristine and I have yet to find another one, or one just like it. I have found similar looking watches with plastic cases, and straps, but they look cheap,
12voltvids thanks for the reply, I really appreciate your comments. I've wore Casio for a long time now. At the moment I have a rangeman and a pathfinder. but I am always on the look out for the more retro looking models and yours really did stand out for me. anyways once again cheers for getting back to me.....I know what a busy guy you are. Kudos my friend.
I have the Marantz 2235. It's not in good hands for a return to glory. The shop charged me 400.00 then returned it without the Meter button cover which they said wouldn't be a problem. The tuning light was returned without lights. It's been a poor experience.
A digital recording will sound better than any vinyl recording. If yo your ears vinyl sounds better then you really need to get your hearing checked. Now I'm not talking 64kb mp3, i am talking full bit rate CD. I recently picked up a tascam ce recorder and will feature it soon.
ahhh sorry. I had to tilt my head and squint. I see it now. By the way you didn't go to the moon either...LOL No need to tilt my head for that one...hahahah!!
I didn't go to the moon, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin did. July 16, 1969. I watched it live on TV, in color on my Grandmothers new Color TV, using a really new technology only available to a handful of people called "Cablevision"
All those little white Elna caps on the tone amp board and the two Elna output coupling caps on the MPX decoder board are the big culprits, and probably the reason why “recapping” became the typical repair for Marantz receivers of this vintage.
Where's that video to restring a 2230... soldering in all new LED two-pins through the back and smelled that I melted halfway through cord... newbie crap... And guess what happened after that? Grrrrrrrr!
Agree that you should have just cleaned and lubed all the controls. Noticed also that you did not place any felt or soft touch item on the bench as you continuously turn the receiver. Makes me cringe, as you are scratching that poor vintage treasure.
okay arguments about digital vs analog , simple form, digital a crystal clear black and white photo , analog is a color photo but not as crystal clear, long version , analog can produce harmonics way better than digital can, the mixing of instruments to produce a unique sound this is where analog shines through, digital harmonics will sound flat or un truthful of the live instruments in harmonics, the best tape recorder to record a live performance or studio performance for the general public would have been a sony beta hifi it records in fm and has a 90db range signal to noise ratio no one ever really knew this, a record is 60 db a tape is 60 db a cd is 90 db but digital with mising harmonics a dat same thing, they should have made a sony vcr for audio only and no video in the tape path scheme, making it the king in audio, then sold tapes with all the artist or media as a stand high end marketing scheme for audio philes that probably knew this all along
I completely diasgree with the BetaHiFi, or VHS HiFi recording. They used DBX compression/expansion and due to the heads switching every 60 of a second there was always a noise added in the 60 Hz range, a buzz that can be detected. A proper digital recording, not one made from an analog tape sounds superior to any analog recording. You actually don't want harmonics in your recording. The tape recorder should be transparent to the signal. Harmonics are a byproduct of sounds mixing in the air. When you listen to a live performance, harmonics are produced when the sound from the instruments mix between the player and your ear. This produces overtones. If the recording is a live recording then the 2 microphones will pick up these harmonics as well and they will be recorded. There is a difference between harmonics and harmonic distortion. All amplifiers no mater how good introduce some form of harmonic distortion. Some more than others. They also introduce IMD, inter modulation distortion. There are 2 types of harmonic distortion, bad and good. Bad harmonic distortion is produced by over driving a solid state amplifier stage. Even harmonic distortion is produced mainly in tube amplifiers. Even order harmonic distortion is a good thing. Overtones are produced, and it just makes the sound fuller. This is why audiophools, and I consider myself one of them, will spend thousands on modern tube gear. I recently dropped 1100 for a hand full of parts, and 4 tubes to build myself an amplifier that puts out 3.5 watts in triode mode, and 8 in ultra linear mode. The sound claiity of this unit just blows me away. I have vinyl, open reel, a professional CD player and DAT, as well as both Beta and VHS hi fi. Starting from worst to best, MP3 at low bit rate, Cassette, VHS/Beta HiFi, Vinyl, Open reel at 7.5IPS, CD/DAT 44.1, DAT 44KHz, and DAT 96khz. I am a critical listener, and llisten to much acoustic jazz and classical music, and the digital sources sound superrior to any of the analog noisy sources. But if you are listening to a run of the mill CD release where the engineer used the vinyl or cassette EQ mix to make the CD, then you wn't experience what CD is capable of, and most CDs were just copies of analog recordings. A full digital recording with a digital mix sounds superior.
I really appreciate this tutorial! I just took care of a volume & balance potentiometer that were getting to the point where the right channel would start to cut out. This video convinced me I could tackle this without a problem. Things sound great again as they should. I use my 2230 as a preamp and run 2 MC30 monoblock tube amps. it sounds sublime.
I cleaned mine today and it is now great, I had it up in my closet for 30 yrs until I read that they're going up in price due to how nice they are, so I am using it again.
I am really pleased the way you tackle and diagnose the problem. You know exactly where and what could be problem. I own a Pioneer AVR about 3 years old. It was working all right and one morning it just quit. It powers on but no sound or video output from any input devices. I paid $350 when I bought it. Now to repair it estimated cost $375. Wow.
Very informative. I just recently upgraded to the latest and greatest sound system (6 speaks, 5.1 surround sound, etc.) and so I sort of retired my Marantz 2238 receiver which I've had for 40 or more years! Anyway, I was looking to clean it up and have never opened it up, since when I needed a bulb or something I'd take it on to be changed. I'm going to set the Marantz up out in the garage with some speakers so I can hear something as I putter around out there. Thanks.
I always put a small piece of paper towel under the volume pot when getting ready to spray it. That way the excess spray doesn't drip down on everything.
I have one of these and a 2270. Great vintage stuff.
This is quality the world will never see again. In terms of sound, one of the holy grails. I have one myself
Wish it was mine.
Thanks man you saved my speakers/wallet!
Marantz makes sold stuff the best
Now that one is difficult.
You had to insert a delivery injection fed displacement liquid into the carbon element module, this is to dissolve the original surface bound friction reducing lubricant.
Next the variable potential selector is operated and displacement of the original lubricant is performed, then the base displacement liquid evaporates leaving the carbon element cleaner where the selector had contacted.
Finally accurate human based audio testing proves the quality of the repair.
i hope my discription covers this complex repair LOL :-D
love that sound track. I also got the vinyl
I like the idea of using headphones rather than putting it thru speakers when it's unknown problem . Usually the customer will tell you what the symptoms are though.
Great stuff.. love the old school tuner mechanics. I've got a set of powered speakers and the volume knob is in need of the same cleaning.. Not going to be as easy as those old pots :/
Dim Bulb Tester. I never go cold start on an unknown unit, that's how smoke escapes.
I've got a 2220 on the bench, easy to work on and well built.
Wery nice unit, i have 2216, its sound great.
Digital sound is good. I like 12" 45 rpm records also, powerful sound!... even though I don't own a working turntable at the moment.
I use the very same exact turntable, all I have ever had to do was clean the speed pot! I love it, what's your opinion?
I have had a MARANTZ equipment and is very clean inside some of these are class AB and the high end units are class A, is there a scratch hologram on the other side
Hey, great videos. I really enjoy watching them...I have a question for you though. I've noticed that in many of your videos, where there is a need to clean the controls, that you only clean the affected one and leave the others alone. What's the thinking behind this. My thought is since you already have the unit apart, and one of the controls has become dirty, chances are that the other controls aren't far behind. Wouldn't it make sense to give an insurance shot of Deoxit to every control so that further repair or cleaning will not be needed again in the near future... Just wondering if I'm missing something here... Thanks again for your fantastic videos!
It's time and money. Most pros don't do extra "preventative" work unless they're specifically being paid for it. Get it working and move on to the next job. He even said he had a big backlog of work. That's why it's great to learn how to do this work yourself because you can do that preventative work on your own time.
@@kennynvake4hve584 deoxit here is about 40.00 for the small can. The total I was paid for this job was 30.00. For 30.00 are you going to spend more on supplies than you have to? This amp was brought to me by a guy that got it for literally nothing. Was cleaning up an old property and it was at the back of the cabinet. Guy he was working with said get rid of that. After I had it, I got a call to say "don't do anything to it" because the owner showed up after it was removed looking for it. This was just a check over when I shot this, so I left it as it was. The guy that brought it to me had intended to do a full recap. I cleaned the control to see how it sounded and the rest would have been done when the caps were swapped but the job got stopped before I could get that far.
@@12voltvids Maybe I'm wrong but if you told customer you went the extra mile, they may appreciate it and come back next time.
Sorry, I made a similar statement after you. Many are probably thinking something.
@@pizzanpepsi
I have no problems with them coming back. I retired from the business 17 years ago and opened the shop in my garage. My customers are all repeat customers that i have had for years. They know where to go.
I was hoping that you would have checked the bias and DC offset settings while you had it open....thanks for the video! 😀
I had a Marantz 2230B (a different receiver, really) back in the 1970s. Great receiver, wish I'd kept it.
Everybody did but the Japanese convinced us that their stuff was better and we bought into it.
P.S. what I enjoy about vinyl is the interaction with the album art, liner notes, and watching the record play. Maybe vinyl doesn't sound better by itself, but the whole experience makes it more enjoyable. There are times I prefer digital when I don't feel like looking for a specific record.
And lets not forget that horrible "screeech" sound when someone bumps the stand while the record is playing.
I can watch my cds Play on my CD player too. IT Has acrylic Window at the top . Interaction with art and liner is also possible minus cracks and pops and with better clarity and dynamic
I don't have a CD player that I can watch the CD play.
@@markmarkofkane8167 they do exist
I don't mind people who prefer tubes, everyone has a preference but the ones who want their vintage 60's blackface Fender guitar amp to be all original including all the damn caps are awesome
This is a nice one from 1972-74
This set is nice. :-)
What's the weight of this set compared to the newer digital one you worked on?
This one is much heavier, I would say around 30Lbs and the other one 15-20
Your last couple of videos have a nice, ground loop type of hum in the audio. Didn't used to be like that. Have you changed something? :-)
The ballast on the shop light has forgotten the words and is humming again.
I have one of these with same issue, so basically you really only to remove the bottom plate to clean the volume control?
That's nice! I have a Fisher amp that bit the dust 2013. It just went out suddenly while listening to music loud. I changed the blown fuse, it blew right away. I am guessing maybe an output transistor shorted.(they have outside heat sinks) I am guessing.
I never tried to open it and test it. It's 39 years old. What do you think?
Yup likely an output went pop.
Hey Buddy... I have this same amplifier everything just stopped working no outputs wants so ever even with headphones no sound can you give me some ideas?? Thanks
Thanks for video. Why not give a shot of cleaner to the balance selector as well, since it was just as accessible as volume control? I figure, that would be the next control to be a problem so why not?
Just because you didn't see it cleaned on camera doesn't mean it wasn't done off camera.
I was 20 in 1976 how things have changed
vinyl sounds better to me, but has to be clean and a good pressed master analog recording. Digital music will always be digital sounding and not as natural sounding as a good vinyl recording . Digital has come a long ways though and can sound pretty close.
i wish you could repair my SANSUI QRX7001 front left speaker channel gives nothing but white noise on speaker A and B only problem is i live in the UK so i am using rear left instead.
In your opinion what would be good old school receivers? What brands?
That 2230 Marantz he worked on is an excellent AB high current receiver, it easily outperforms most of the low current solid state class D amps that are low to mid priced currently. Seen them selling for $50 to $500.
A lot of the old Fisher, Sansui, and Pioneer are great.
The Yamaha CA 2010 (it's an amp, not a receiver) is about as good as you could ever want; I see them selling for under $600 to over $3000.
You can get lucky and get a really good deal sometimes.
Are you using an electronic contact cleaner or an electronic lubricant/cleaner, like Goldseal?
jake ounce
me 2 i want to know
Kitchener Ontario, are you located in Kitchener? Do you recap speakers as Well? Do you have any old marantz receivers for Sale?
No Vancouver is where I am located.
Dude, I have same model the right side speaker keeps goin in and out of connection, I've swapped the speakers around, and nope not speaker problem, it's the connection on the back where speakers go in. Do u have fix or advice for this problem.
What type of cleaner are you using to clean the controller?
Joan Becenti ....i used german Kontakt 60
My 2230 works well but the lights behind the radio frequency and VU meters are dead (only the middle one on the freq scale still works). And the power button is failing so I don't touch it; I use a power bar with an on off switch instead.
Are these replacement parts still available?
Yes the parts for that unit will be readily available. A few may be tough to get, but things like the switch and light bulbs no problem.
My 2230 has four output transistors. All are Hitachi 2SC897. Does this mean that it is a class A amp? I thought that all class A/B push-pull amps used one npn and one pnp per channel. My 2270 has two Motorola SJ2517, and two Motorola SJ2518 outputs, and two 9000mfd 55volt caps. The 2230 has a different cap arrangement too. It has one 4700mfd 80volt, which charges to 71volts, and two 2200mfd 63volt caps that charge to 36volts. When power is disconnected the voltage drops down to zero in about a minute on both units, so I'm assuming that is normal. IS THE 2230 A CLASS A, AND THE 2270 A CLASS AB? Or is there a class A/B circuit design utilizing only a pnp or npn? I am hearing noise in the speakers when I turn the 2230 on or off. When pushed hard for a 5 minutes or so, it starts to distort, so I was thinking the caps were running out of juice because they were leaky. What do you think?
The 2230 has what's called a quasi-complementary output stage. Very common back then because it allows using two npn outputs as you found, and especially back then, good pnp power transistors were much harder to make / more expensive. Quasicomps tend to have higher distortion though, especially with no Baxandall diode being used.
It's definitely not class A - alignment instructions in the service manual call for 5 mV across a 0R24 emitter resistor, which is a measly 20 mA of idle current. (Use clip leads.) What do I win for RTFSM? ;)
As you found, it's an oldschool single-supply design with capacitor-coupled outputs. The 2200µ ones are the output coupling caps, the 4700µ is across the supply.
Electrolytics are about the only parts that work better warm (just ask my computer - it refused to boot on the weekend, I eventually spotted a bulging cap on the board, then whipped out a hairdryer, and lo and behold, we're back in business; now I'm just putting it in standby until I've got a replacement part), so your reasoning seems off. Doesn't mean some ESR testing would be useless, of course, these are 40+ year old caps and nobody ought to be surprised if some of them are bad.
You still want to make sure it's not a drooping supply under load. Could be a bad power switch or oxidized fuse holder, common enough.
If supply is decently stable, I suggest you check bias, then push the unit hard, then check again. Could be a tempco problem. Now guess what, service bulletin #2 for this model details a mod "to ensure amplifier idling current stability at temperature extremes". (Obtain e.g. at HiFi Engine.) This applies to S/N up to 37800 for US models. It would seem to tackle undercompensation rather than overcompensation though. Still, might be worth implementing if it means you can up idle current a bit without risking your outputs under load, things should certainly sound better up top at a more standard 30 or 40 mA.
If it's not that, it can't hurt to check for excessive leakage in the output coupling caps, bad solder joints, bad fusibles.
Come to think of it, I saw that term quasicomplementary in an old marantz 4230 service manual that I forgot I had. The 2230 seems to play fine. My speakers are klipschorn/Speakerlab K clones, at 104db@1watt I don't really get to push it.
This amp has output coupling caps. So the large caps are not all filter caps.
Right I kind of figures that when I saw how they were wired up after I removed the base of the unit, but in this case I didn't need a schematic as all it needed was a volume control cleaning.
Give that record a bath. A sponge with some Dawn dish detergent, rinse, repeat. Guaranteed those crackles will close to disappear. That's dirt, not scratches.
I should show the trick I learned when I worked in broadcast when I was in college. Learned a trick from an engineer that really does deep clean records.
12voltvids Yes, please.
wood glue? :P
Yup
12voltvids :D
Loving all your work.....but please put me out of my misery...I am a retro watch fan myself, could you please let me know the model number of that awesome casio you wear? cheers for any info.
It is a Casio WV-300 using the3023 module.I have never been able to find another one. Found this one back in 2003 or 4 at Target I think. Was expensive for a Casio, over 120US, but it was exactly what I was looking for. First it is all stainless steel. That is important because I can't wear plastic or cheap metals such as zinc as I get an allergic reaction to these metals. The features of this unique watch are:First it is solar powered. The black that surrounds the display is the solar cell that recharges the internal battery. It is an "Atomic" watch, meaning it has an internal radio receiver that received the time signal every night and sets the time to the various atomic clock radio broadcasts around the world. It also has an electroluminescent panel backlight that lights the entire display up a nice green color. The crystal is also scratch resistant mineral glass. and so far it is looking pretty good despite daily wear, and bashing it into things, and scuffing it on hard surfaces on a regular basis.They only had one and I bought it. I have been looking for a second one just to keep as a spare and keep it pristine and I have yet to find another one, or one just like it. I have found similar looking watches with plastic cases, and straps, but they look cheap,
12voltvids thanks for the reply, I really appreciate your comments. I've wore Casio for a long time now. At the moment I have a rangeman and a pathfinder. but I am always on the look out for the more retro looking models and yours really did stand out for me. anyways once again cheers for getting back to me.....I know what a busy guy you are. Kudos my friend.
I have the Marantz 2235. It's not in good hands for a return to glory. The shop charged me 400.00 then returned it without the Meter button cover which they said wouldn't be a problem. The tuning light was returned without lights. It's been a poor experience.
400 bucks. Sh1t i wish someone would pay me that kind of money. I am lucky to make 80 to 100 and they expect that to include parts.
what causes FM on a receiver to stop pulling in stations and how can it be cured? thanks
Many things can cause no reception.Preamp failure, Oscillator or mixer failure.
SuperJV4x needs calibration
I have the matching cassette deck
Unless you have Direct Disc records.
A digital recording will sound better than any vinyl recording. If yo your ears vinyl sounds better then you really need to get your hearing checked.
Now I'm not talking 64kb mp3, i am talking full bit rate CD. I recently picked up a tascam ce recorder and will feature it soon.
It has the wrong feet on it.
Your point? It isn't my unit, it was brought in for repair.
@@12voltvids
He didn't know his point but got yours loud and clear. 😂
@5:17 Sorry, but where is the evidence this was manufactured in Japan?? Thanks
What the label that says "Made in Japan" isn't evidence enough for you.
Oh right you probably believe that we never went to the moon too.
ahhh sorry. I had to tilt my head and squint. I see it now. By the way you didn't go to the moon either...LOL No need to tilt my head for that one...hahahah!!
I didn't go to the moon, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin did.
July 16, 1969. I watched it live on TV, in color on my Grandmothers new Color TV, using a really new technology only available to a handful of people called "Cablevision"
Otherwise known as "Tunnellvision".
All those little white Elna caps on the tone amp board and the two Elna output coupling caps on the MPX decoder board are the big culprits, and probably the reason why “recapping” became the typical repair for Marantz receivers of this vintage.
Where's that video to restring a 2230... soldering in all new LED two-pins through the back and smelled that I melted halfway through cord... newbie crap... And guess what happened after that? Grrrrrrrr!
Agree that you should have just cleaned and lubed all the controls. Noticed also that you did not place any felt or soft touch item on the bench as you continuously turn the receiver. Makes me cringe, as you are scratching that poor vintage treasure.
I lift it as I turn except when it is on the rubber feet.
I hear a bad hum.
That's because it doesn't know the words
okay arguments about digital vs analog , simple form, digital a crystal clear black and white photo , analog is a color photo but not as crystal clear, long version ,
analog can produce harmonics way better than digital can, the mixing of instruments
to produce a unique sound this is where analog shines through, digital harmonics will sound flat or un truthful of the live instruments in harmonics, the best tape recorder to record a live performance or studio performance for the general public would have been a sony beta hifi it records in fm and has a 90db range signal to noise ratio
no one ever really knew this, a record is 60 db a tape is 60 db a cd is 90 db but digital
with mising harmonics a dat same thing, they should have made a sony vcr for audio only and no video in the tape path scheme, making it the king in audio, then sold tapes with
all the artist or media as a stand high end marketing scheme for audio philes that probably knew this all along
I completely diasgree with the BetaHiFi, or VHS HiFi recording. They used DBX compression/expansion and due to the heads switching every 60 of a second there was always a noise added in the 60 Hz range, a buzz that can be detected.
A proper digital recording, not one made from an analog tape sounds superior
to any analog recording.
You actually don't want harmonics in your recording. The tape recorder should be transparent to the signal. Harmonics are a byproduct of sounds mixing in the air. When you listen to a live performance, harmonics are produced when the sound from the instruments mix between the player and your ear. This produces overtones. If the recording is a live recording then the 2 microphones will pick up these harmonics as well and they will be recorded.
There is a difference between harmonics and harmonic distortion.
All amplifiers no mater how good introduce some form of harmonic distortion. Some more than others. They also introduce IMD, inter modulation distortion.
There are 2 types of harmonic distortion, bad and good. Bad harmonic distortion is produced by over driving a solid state amplifier stage.
Even harmonic distortion is produced mainly in tube amplifiers.
Even order harmonic distortion is a good thing. Overtones are produced, and it just makes the sound fuller. This is why audiophools, and I consider myself one of them, will spend thousands on modern tube gear.
I recently dropped 1100 for a hand full of parts, and 4 tubes to build myself an amplifier that puts out 3.5 watts in triode mode, and 8 in ultra linear mode.
The sound claiity of this unit just blows me away.
I have vinyl, open reel, a professional CD player and DAT, as well as both Beta and VHS hi fi.
Starting from worst to best, MP3 at low bit rate, Cassette, VHS/Beta HiFi,
Vinyl, Open reel at 7.5IPS, CD/DAT 44.1, DAT 44KHz, and DAT 96khz.
I am a critical listener, and llisten to much acoustic jazz and classical music, and the digital sources sound superrior to any of the analog noisy sources.
But if you are listening to a run of the mill CD release where the engineer used the vinyl or cassette EQ mix to make the CD, then you wn't experience what CD is capable of, and most CDs were just copies of analog recordings.
A full digital recording with a digital mix sounds superior.
😂