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NGK RUTHENIUM HX SPARK PLUGS - 17,294 MILE CHECK UP (1999 Camry, Platinum vs Ruthenium)
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2020
- 7/7/2020- THIS IS MY FIRST NEW NGK RUTHENIUM SPARK PLUGS install video;
• NEW NGK RUTHENIUM PSPE...
HERE'S MY 6/4/2021 31,898 MILE CHECK UP VIDEO; • NGK RUTHENIUM SPARK PL...
NOTE.... ALL RUDE COMMENTS WILL BE REPORTED AND DELETED, THEN I WILL COME AFTER YOU WITH A PITCHFORK!
CORRECTION- My car has approximately 119, 900 miles on the odometer, not 121,000 miles written in the prologue at the beginning of this video.
YES.... I know NGK PSPE Ruthenium plugs are designed for turbo'd and super charged engines and NGK's DFE plugs are for normally aspirated engines. This fact was covered in my 1st video in this series. NGK does NOT make a DFE plug for my engine, however, their head Tech assured me the PSPE will work just fine in my engine, and I couldn't agree more. In fact, if NGK one day does come out with a DFE plug for my car, I'd still use the PSPE design.
Back in 1999, my engine's original double platinum OEM NGK plug was built more for reliability, however, it's double electrode design really inhibited the flame kernel's ability to ignite the mixture efficiently (reliability over efficiency) . The OEM plug was simply self-limiting. I'm only guessing, but if my engine was still built today, I bet the PSPE design would be the OEM plug due to it's extraordinary ignition ability. It REALLY is a superior plug in every way.
***If possible, when commenting below, always state if you have a stock or modded engine so others with similar engines can make correlations. Your sharing of info is very helpful and appreciated.
MY SCHTORY...
I went to the goodest kolledge! Just kiddin'...
I am NOT a professional reviewer or mechanic and I am not a scientific person. I'm just a fat old dude from RI, but I do understand engines to some degree and I know a good thing when I see or use it.
As a kid, I built engines from scratch and have always seen obscene reliable miles from my builds. These days, I am done futzin' with engines, but I still do all my own lighter work or find mechanics that will let me work along side of them when it comes to bigger stuff like pulling heads.
Other than what I see on CZcams, I don't really keep up with modern engines as much anymore because the basic principals haven't changed, so when it comes to advancements that directly affect the safety, ride quality or the combustion process, like Ruthenium spark plugs that make big claims AND are made from an exotic material with a chick's name in it, I'll give it a try. That's what I've done in this video. Today, I'm just checking the condition of the plugs.
So far, these NGK Rutheniums have been a total win for me, which is more than I can say for the countless new "advanced" automotive product I've tried in the last several decades.
The last 8 worthwhile automotive things I found that I always use (and I know this is debatable) are;
1.MicroMesh (from 1500 grit to 4000)
2. Rain X
3. Berryman B-12 Chemtool
4. Fumoto Oil Drain valves (also called an EZ Valve)
5. Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic Motor Oil (made from natural gas) for High Mileage Engines
6. NGK Ruthenium plugs
7. TechFlex ignition wire protection (this one is real debatable, but I like it)
8. LED automotive lighting.
And here's 2 new bonus products that are really showing promise:
9. ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks (it REALLY works well to restore old seals)
10. Valvoline Restore & Protect Motor Oil (cleans piston ring landings of carbon build-up)
I have been using MicroMesh, Rain X, Berryman B-12 and the Fumoto drain valve since the 80's. The Pennzoil, NGKs, LEDs and TechFlex are newer to my automotive arsenal, all within the last 5 years. The APT and Valvoline are new to me, but positive testing & countless positive reviews on YT have fast-tracked my personal testing that would normally take years.
I want to say that while I think old standards like Marvel Mystery Oil, Sta-bil and SeaFoam definitely have some merits, I do not use them on a regular basis because I cannot prove their worth or I see, read and/or get mixed results.
GLAD to hear that...I JUST GOT MINE TODAY!... for my 2015 Mazda CX-5 2.5L..
They are burning perfectly
Thank you so much for the update!! There is so little info out there about these plugs. I chose ruthenium over everything else in hopes of never replacing my plugs again. 130k miles -> 250k(if i get this far)
A mechanic told me not to leave any spark plugs in an aluminum head,more than 65,000 miles,so he got my vote??
@@erikwennberg2642 Update - I have taken my G35 from 130k to now 200k miles. No issues to report at all. Still fires up and runs like new
@@chawkfan94the side electrode can fatigue over time, break off and fall into the cylinder head. Then you got a big problem with potentially scratching up the cylinder wall or messing up the valves
@@remogaggi82 Fair point, so any spark plug in that case. However my car is worth like 3-5k at this point. When it dies, it will be time for a new(used) car and that is okay.
You were breathing wrong when you removed the plugs.
Thanks for the update, I appreciate it.
Thanks for the review. Anecdotal evidence does have value. I'm considering these because they are cheaper than platinum, not because they perform miracles. Then again, maybe they do.
I do find it funny that you changed plugs again after a few months. Inline 4 plugs are so easy. It's one of my favorite things during tune up time.
Thanks for commenting.
UPDATE 4/12/24- MY CAMRY HAS NOW HIT 197K ON THE ODOMETER, AND WITHOUT HESITATION, I STILL CLAIM THESE PLUGS WERE A COMPLETE WIN... but please take into consideration that I'm comparing them to the OEM NGK Double Platinum Electrode plugs my car was designed for. IMHO the OEM plugs were a design compromise (reliability over efficiency) with 2, yes TWO ground side electrodes that most likely hindered the flame kernel's ability to ignite the mixture as fast as these Rutheniums. The double electrodes were the best we had back in 90's when my engine was designed. Again, just my unscientific opinion.
It’s simple reason they are better is better thermal conductivity. It means under higher temps they don’t lose spark intensity or accuracy. Leaner fuel mixture has a hotter flame front and is harder to ignite properly. . I’m a 21 year diagnostic tech I deal with engine performance. Your slight gain of mpg is plausible. Whoever thinks those are dirty has no clue what they are talking about. These plugs would have a much greater impact on direct injection engines.
Seriously, they look phenomenal. If anybody thinks they are bad, go look at a 2 stroke weed wacker plug at the end of every season lol. My only concern is, I just don't like NGK. My wife's 2016 explorer needs a tune up soon, and I have been debating on oem platinums... Or these. It's the 3.5, so Its not just a 20 min job.
@@tslater1989 I work at Ford and the plugs on the newer Fords look like NGK plugs. Even says Japan on them.
@@jtugfestiva I wouldn't be surprised. I used to be a mechanic, now I do small engines. I do run NGK's in single cylinder's quite often. I've just had bad luck in the past with them in domestic vehicles. Things have changed though now.
@@tslater1989 your right some older fords don’t like NGK at all especially the dual tip ones. I’ve had good luck so far with them. I’ve used E3 and stay away from them
I am a believer in these plugs. I have a 2013 f-150 Ecoboost with ruthenium and it's tuned. Zero issues. I also have a 2018 Taurus SHO, with ruthenium plugs, a E30 tune, meth kit, running 550wtq and 407whp, and these plugs can handle it. I didn't even tell my tuner what plugs I was using till after the mods. He was impressed with my data log and was the first car he had tuned running ruthenium. I'll never go back. Ruthenium for life. Holds the gap in a modded engine with zero issues
That's good to hear. Thanks for the report. It will help other for sure.
Thank you not only for the video but also for facilitating the discussion here in the comments! All of this information has been very helpful to me in trying to make heads or tales of plugs and coils and the like for my girlfriend's 2007 Toyota Camry (v6 3.5L). Her check engine light came on showing a misfire on cylinder 5 as well as an open coil circuit. I've been wrestling with a few different options I've seen from different sources, and maybe you could give me some insight:
1-change just the one coil pack and plug, and possibly the connection wires that fit into the top of the coil pack, since I read that coil malfunction can be caused by failing or faulty wires
2- Change out plugs and coils (and wires) on cyls. 1, 3 and 5 because they are all located against the firewall and it makes sense to do them while I have the other assorted engine pieces out already OR
3-bite the bullet and replace all 3 parts on all 6 cylinders
What would you recommend?
I should add that this engine has just shy of 120k miles on her, and we aren't sure if the coils or plugs have ever been replaced, although tomorrow morning we'll review the dealership paperwork for repairs and such. I'll reply to this with that info when and if we come by it.
Any insight is hugely appreciated =]
Figures the misfiring plug is against the firewall.. Ugh! Well, I'm not a mechanic, so if anyone else seeing this knows better, please chime in.....
If you can afford it, (unless you find out something has recently been replaced), and she intends on keeping the car, I'd replace everything. IMHO, I'd replace the plugs and wires with NGK and the coil with Denso.
If money is an issue, start by exchanging the #5 coil pack with any other coil pack to see if the issue follows it. This will tell you if the coil pack is the problem or its with the ignition wire and plug. If after exchanging the coil, the issue stays with cyl 5, you will not easily be able to tell what is causing the misfire (wrong plug, fouling due to worn rings, bad plug and/or bad ignition wire) so you should prolly replace both. While Rutheniums may be overkill for your lady's car, their design does not allow for scale to easily build up and unless something else goes wrong with the engine that can foul the best plugs, the Rutheniums should be the last plug that car ever needs. I hope this helps
@@dbfcrell8300 Thank you so much! We will start by swapping the #2 and #5 coils and make sure it actually is the coil that's causing it and report back with my findings!
@@josephmcgraw8151 How'd we do? Is it the coil pack?
Exact review I was hoping to find. My ‘04 will be getting these; thanks for posting 🙏
I seem to like these plugs a lot. Im going to use them only now on. They are supposed to last a long time and cheaper than platinum or iridium plugs.
I bought these for my 2003 Impala with the 3800. The rear spark plugs are ridiculously hard to change because it is a Pushrod engine in a fwd layout so I'm hoping I will never have to change the plugs again
Well, if there's any plug on the planet that will go the distance, you picked the right one. Did you get the DFE or PSPE ?
I put these in my Nissan Maxima three months. I am also very happy with them.
Very clean burn reading on those plugs. I'm using iridium right now, so by the time I'm ready to give these a try unobtianium maybe out.
ie, Gold
Damn you! I actually looked up unobtainium
@@2010Camaroman Yahtzee
Bought a set of these for my Mazda 3 sport GT, can't wait to put em in!
They're the best IMHO. Please report back.
@@dbfcrell8300 They have been performing great so far! and I expect them too for a long time to come!
Good update, thanks! and thanks for noting that you changed the plugs when you bought the car at 89k to OEM plugs. I was looking for a review that compared these ruthenium plugs vs newer (less used) ones -- so to avoid a comparison from replacing already old/kinda bad plugs.
You're welcome. Not sure if your saw my final vid on these plugs. I changed them out recently after 78k miles due to all the different gap settings I tried. The last one I tried was .034" and was too small a gap as is wore off most of the projected square, so I replaced them with the same Rutheniums gapped at .044" which is where they'll stay. Thanks for your comment.
@@dbfcrell8300 i will watch that one. Definitely thinking about these when I change my Yukon 6.2L plugs. One and done, maybe.
agree - these are GREAT plugs!
The DFE design are for naturally aspirated engines, the PSPE design are for turbo and super charged engines.
Yes, however they are interchangeable in some applications such as mine, as per NGK. The projected square design works great in my engine with no clearance issues whatsoever.
I put a set of these in my wifes Chrystler 200 4 banger. Had two coils go bad at 50k miles and I decided to change the plugs since I was there. The platinums I took out looked great still and I am sure still had alot of life them in them. The car idles better and I can tell a little bit of difference in accelerating.
I have a 2019 370Z that has a Fast Intentions x-pipe cat back exhaust, a Stillen Gen 3 long tube cold air intake and a tune on a Dynojet chassis dyno. The estimated peak crankshaft horsepower is about 380, vs the stock 332. The car is hitting 60K miles and I'm thinking of installing either the Denso Iridium TT or NGK HX DFE plugs. I've used NGK fine-wire electrode plugs on my motorcycles in the past and found them to be the best plugs for resisting fouling and misfiring, on older carbureted engines.
IMHO, these Ruthenium plugs in projected square are the most resistant to fouling and put the flame kernel more centralized, especially if you index your plugs. However, you know your application better than I. The DFEs are great too. NGK says PSPEs are totally interchangeable with DFE if your piston won't make contact. My engine is "supposed" to use DFEs, but since NGK only makes PSPEs that will fit my engine, that's what NGK said to use. If NGK started making DFEs for my application, I'd still use the PSPEs. Just my take. If you consider using the PSPEs, you may want to check with NGK and/or other Z owners before buying them.
@@dbfcrell8300 NGK does recommend using the PSPE design for my car, which has a NA engine. I was curious why and just guessed that it might be due to the fact that the engine is generating a lot of heat in each of the cylinders, generating about 63 hp per cylinder.
I'm also thinking of installing a high energy multi spark discharge coil pack from Ignition Projects.
Super like for your endeavor and elaborated explanation, my question is: Did you notice or feel better fuel mileage? have you felt better acceleration at random kick down? Are they better idling?? am planning to buy them for Nissan Armada so do you recommend them?
Thank you
Yes, yes and yes! My Camry has honestly never run better. Out of all the people I've talk to, only one person who put it in a Nissan 350Z said he didn't like them but didn't really elaborate or sound like he knew what he was doing. I suspect the car was modified in someway, but he wouldn't go into it. I would tell you what I told him; that if you don't like them, you could probably sell them used individually on eBay and get half your money back because they're such long-lasting plugs, and someone may want a spare.
@@dbfcrell8300 completely true. Am planning to buy them from Rockauto.com @8 USD pp and get them shipped to Middle East so that made me curious to know their performance before wasting too much time as now am using laser iridium NGK ones.
Thank you again for your useful video.
@@Max-Jet I got mine from Rock Auto too. They sent me the PSPEs because NGK doesn't make a DFE for my particular engine. But they work just fine, and if DFE's did become available for my engine, I would still leave the PSPEs in it. Best of luck, and I hope you can come back here and tell us how they work out for you.
@@dbfcrell8300 Sure i will, thank you.
Thanks for the video. My 05 subi 3.0 loves the ngk iridiums. Pretty sure thats the stock plug. I decided to look at the plugs in the 09 2.5 NA I bought a year ago. The previous owner used bosch iridium. It is winter and I put snow tires on. My gas milage is all over the place. Better highway mpg than summer tires and way worse on the back roads. Corrected tire pressure and cleaned the egr. Bought a set of these hoping it might make a difference. They were actually a buck cheaper on rock auto so it was a no brainer. Hoping I don't have to do injectors next. Thanks again for the video.
What results are you getting?
@@dbfcrell8300 definitely improved my idle. Mpg went up slightly ~2mpg . Winter and winter tires are killing my mpgs.
HEY! I watched this video before purchasing ruthenium plugs for my 2005 jeep liberty 3.7 v6, I have 130k miles and just installed them today. Instantly the car sounded Wayyyyy quieter, drove around the block and is much quieter, performance seems the same. I will keep you guys updated on how they go but so far I'm very pleased.
Edit: vehicle is 100% stock and automatic transmission 2wd.
Yes, definitely keep us posted here on any future results. It's the only way we can truly know what benefits people are seeing. If possible, always state if you have a stock or modded engine so others with similar engines can make correlations. Your sharing of info is very helpful and appreciated.
Any worthwhile results after 3 months?
@@dbfcrell8300 To tell you the truth. I no longer own the jeep. I upgraded and got a new grand cherokee. But with that said, the plugs were amazing, I put on about 3k miles and he ran like a champ! Better mpg ( slightly) , quieter, and better acceleration. Definetely would buy again.
@@Librelafortunidad Excellent to hear. Jeep Liberty owners will benefit from your experience with them. Thanks for the update.
Really nice job on the initial description!
Regards,
Art S.
I bought these for my 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan. I dont want to change my plug for a long time as well so I bought these for that reason. Anything else like fuel mileage or hp is just bonus vs stock.
ur Plugs looked dirty for only 17k on it, maybe cuz its Camry v4 4 plugs Compare to Tundra 8 plugs
i just changed my Denso after 9 years n 90k on it n it looked n lil more burnt than urs but its after 90k/9 years
After 75k i noticed a lag in performance so i recommend replacing every 60-70k no matter what
fyi: Always use Castrol FULL Synthetic it guarantees 15,000 miles, i think Mobile 1 came out with new OIL that guarantees change once a year, but i tried every OIL out there n Castrol provides that EXTRA PUUNCH when going uphill, Other oil the speed would Decrease when climbing steep hills
My car runs like new again with new Denso TT
Loving it
✌✌
I had these in my 07 accord and feel like I downgraded with Denso iridium tt, seems to run smoother with ruthenium. I'll be switching back.
Just installed them in 2015 Kia Soul @ 94,000 miles. Noticable improvement right away
You can put $1.25 copper plugs in and get the same noticable improvement right away.
You gain aceleration with rutheniun plug ?
It's an old car so I don't push it too hard except on highway entrance ramps to get up to highway speed. On the ramps it definitely feels stronger probably due to its more efficient burn
Should get ngk to sponsor because you sold me on them, thanks!
Well, they are not for everybody due to cost, but I hope they work out well for you. Remember, I tested them in my older engine that originally came with plugs designed for optimizing reliability, not performance. These ruthenium plugs allow for the best of both for MY engine. If you have a newer engine that is already well optimized, you may not see what I see, but they should still last a LONG time.
@@dbfcrell8300 needed some anyway since i put iridium plugs in about 80k miles ago on my 13 honda accord but I went ahead and put them in and the cars running much better. Seems like the real deal and not having to change them again is great
Have these plugs in my 2006 Hyundai Elantra..2.0. In 2020.. still running great..i put anti sieze on the threads....
Cool! Glad to hear they're working for you. Anti seize is not recommended by NGK as there's a special coating on the threads. It can also really mess up your torque spec AND possibly mess up your threads, especially if you remove them with the engine cold.
Got these for my 350z and they’re great! Engine idles a lot quieter and runs smoother.
Those are nice cars. Glad you put the best in it and they're working out for you.
@@dbfcrell8300 Time stamp 5:16. Quote: I don't think Ill even bother to clean it.
I was trying to be helpful rather than being nasty.
Yes you have right statching the centre electrode ceramic and mechanical cleaning can break of the tips including then grounding patch. People trying to gap plugs cant ruin these too. I was looking for a vid on exactly what you have done and your finding were definitely worthwhile. Didn't mean to annoy or upset. Cheers and thanks. Unfortunately I won't be looking at installing where I live as they cost a arm and leg to buy. Happy new years to you and yours.
@@jhndijkman I'm am neither annoyed nor upset. Sorry if it came across that way. I'm nutty tonight doing too much stuff. I'm good, you are too. Have a good New Years too. Try not to breathe or watch the news! :)
That’s all I need to hear. Definitely ordering some for my Z too
Any results to add?
I clicked on the video and began listening but not watching, as I was distracted by something else. I could have sworn I was listening to Neil deGrasse Tyson talking about spark plugs!
Ha! Everyone says I sound like Seth Rogan.
I decided to see how much better the Step Colder versions of these were compared to the Iridium's on a Focus ST and I do say they have a noticeable difference. Much better idle, the weird inconsistent idle I've always got from my engine is almost gone and is quieter as a result. The pedal response also feels more consistent too, I'm assuming a lot of this has to do with Ruthenium's being a much more improved projected tip vs the Iridium's. The biggest thing for me, however, is going to be longevity. Current Interval for my car being tuned is 15000 miles before needing to replace the Iridium's due to the gap widening. Prices for Ruthenium $70 vs $50 for Iridium for my application.
Glad the experiment paid off. It's an expensive thing to try in the hopes of better performance, but you sound like you had thought it out well. Please come back here with a long term review in 10 to 20k miles so others can benefit from it. Maybe post a video so we can see what a step colder heat range looks like. Thanks!
$70 for 4 plugs? I paid a little more than $8 a plug from RockAuto. I seen them as much as $13 or more from Amazon. Amazon is not always a good deal.
@@pberthoty these are not from Amazon. You can only get Ruthenium from specific dealers. These are also pregapped, and because they use more precious metals, they do cost more. Yes rock auto has them, but if I'm not mistaken, I don't think those go through QC like more specialized dealers. I could be wrong though.
@@njx1993 I priced NGK LTR5AHX stock#90220 for my Ford Cmax Hybrid (also, fits Fusion) through Autozone ($12.49), Advance ($12.49), NAPA ($10.65), O'Reillys, Summit Racing ($12.99) and Amazon ($22.84) (so much for specific dealers) and Rock had the best prices at $8.11 apiece.
When I checked the gap and it was only .044", I contacted with NGK and for my particular vehicle, even though it came gapped at .044", they told me to regap to vehicle specs at .052".
QC is through NGK, not the distributor.
@@njx1993found some on autozone for $13
As far as i know, this product is rarely available in the market. So i cannot say its the best on consumer points of view.
Available on Rock Auto, but maybe not for your particular engine.Are you in the USA?
Thank you bro.I ordered this product from rockauto. Eagerly waiting for this mystical sparkplug.😀
@@tenzackyogi1742 Well.... how are they?
Installing them today. My G37S has 207k. Last change was around 120k. Got new Hitachi coils too
Lmk how they go, I also have a g37 and want to know if they are any improvement over old stock ones
One of the best Camry ever made 😉
I don't know about using Dielectric grease but NGK says you should not use anti seize lubrication on their plugs since they're already manufactured not to seize. They say technically it has something to do with the torque and using lubricant on your plugs can throw off the torque measurement up to 20%. Just Google, should I use anti seize on NGK plugs?
I just looked through thye entire NGK site for that info with no luck. A Google search doesn't necessarily mean it comes from NGK, but I will keep looking and will ask my friends at NGK. Thanks.
"5 things you should know about spark plugs" I got off the NGK site when I Googled it. Also since I have to re gap my ruthenium plugs I have been in contact with NGK Tech through email from their site.
@@pberthoty So are you saying the tech said no anti-seize?
I know now why you were tempted to use anti-seize. When I unscrewed the Motorcraft plugs, they made a heck of a squeeking noise and I thought they would break inside. Thank goodness I got them out OK.
NEVER EVER spray air in it while you are....... I kid lol 😂
Iridium last a long time in old cars. New cars puts iridium to its limits, so 100k miles isnt a thing anymore, and burns away easily. Ruthenium burns bright at high rpms and wont get eaten away in new or old cars. Iridium provides only a little more ignitability for not much more mpgs. I used ruthenium for 5 years now. Before that, used the high end laser iridium since they first came out costing nearly 20 bucks for 1, 80 for a set, and couldnt be found locally. I had high spark rate ignition coils and always redline my car. Iridium gets eaten up in 4 months. Ruthenium last for years.
After 80k miles on the Rutheniums, I agree with you. My 99 Camry originally came with dual opposing electrode platinums. Although spark reliability was no doubt the reason for the two electrodes on that plug, the design definitely had its limitations. It unfortunately guaranteed the spark had less of a clear path to the mixture with all those giant electrodes in the way. The designers could only dream of putting the flame kernel where the projected square of the NGK Ruthenium plugs puts it. My guess is the NGK PSPE or the DFE probably would have become the OEM plug for the Camry in 1999 if it had existed back then.
Thank you for your review!! I was looking a a non-marketing video and it seems that I found it. I'll try it for my Mitsubishi Lancer 2.0L to see if I feel some change. I'll be replacing the OEM to the ruthenium spark plugs. wish me luck.
Keep us posted. Best of luck!
How is it going? I just bought them and will be putting them in my 2015 genesis sedan this Friday.
Hey man your engines rocking!
Thanks, my engine is definitely burnin' clean!
How do they look like 3 years later? 😉
See my 69K mile video update: czcams.com/video/rzM6D_IPwOo/video.html
@@dbfcrell8300 Thank you very much! 😃👍
I found the 4th part of your test much later. The electrodes were almost worn out. In other words: ruthenium doesn't last longer than iridium. 🤷♂️
@@u.e.u.e. Well yes and no. I was experimenting with extreme gap so I could see if there were any performance gains. The last gap I set wore out the electrodes. Gap actually changes timing, and while the computer made up for the mis-adjusted (shortened) gap, the electrodes wore out prematurely. It showed that factory gap works best for plug longevity, even with rutheniums. Also, the car still ran fine with the badly worn electrodes further showing the quality of these plugs.
@@dbfcrell8300 Let's see how I will decide in 2 to 3 years for my European Yaris Hybrid. I have 3 options:
- Denso Iridium TT iridium center and platinum outside
- NGK DFW ruthenium
- Bosch Double Iridium.
I guess in the end of the day they will last more or less equally. 60,000 to 100,000 mi or 100,000 to 160,000 km
I just ordered these for my 2005 Civic EX, tha sometimes has slow starting. Hopefully, the easier starting will put less stress on the car. It will be interesting to see if anything changes with winter here in Ohio. It's going to be very cold this week so I'll have something to compare it to as my appointment isn't until January 4th 2022. My current plugs are the NGK IX-Iridium which will be about 50k old NGK says those are good for 60k. Figured, a year wont matter so Im changing it early. Also doing he ignition Coils. Hopefully, it all goes well.
Good luck and please keep us posted. The only way for other Civic owners to know if Rutheniums are worth it for them is to hear owner experiences.
Should I regap my new ngk ruthenium hx spark plugs?
I would first check to make sure they each have a consistent factory gap from one to the next, and correct any one that may be different, then install them. I woudn't regap them for a different size gap unless you feel the engine isn't running optimal. Widening the gap .001-.002" is like advancing the timing very slightly. I'm told this "may" be okay to do for a n/a engine but going from .044" to .035" would NOT be smart.
Dbf Crell thanks for your feedback
I received 4 LTR5AHX ruthenium plugs plugs from RockAuto for a Ford C-Max Hybrid also fits Fusion and others) RockAuto sheet indicated a .052 Gap. When I checked, it was a .042 but I was using one of those coin type plug gauges.
I contacted NGK and they said that they came out of the box at .044 (so much for the calibration of the coin type plug gauge) NGK said that I should regap them to
.052 and to be sure the DFE points line up.
Had a hard time finding a tool since my all my wire type gauges only goes up .040.. I went to Napa, O'Reilly's Advance and they all wanted to sell me the coin type plug gauge and finally found a wire tool at AutoZone that has gaps at .050, .055, 060 so I can wing it at .052.
Things have changed and plug gaps certainly have gotten a lot wider since we used to adjust them using a matchbox.
@@pberthoty That is one wide gap ya got there. .052" is outta my understanding. That's more like a friggen lightning bolt than a spark. Love to know how this works out.
NGK said my plugs come pre gapped at .044" Regaped the NGK ruthenium plugs to.052 as recommended by NGK using a wire gapping tool I found at AutoZone which was hard to find since it is a wide gap. Also replaced my air cleaner with a K&N air filter so I won't have to worry about that for another 100,000 miles. Actually it took more time and effort to replace the cabin air filter which was a real b i t c h.
Ford C-Max Hybrid running great and appears to me to have more power and better gas mileage but I won't know for sure about the gas mileage until I go through a few tanks of fuel.
bought LFER7B HX Ruthenium plugs for my Audi TTS 1000 km ago, let's see how much they will last...
Please keep us posted. That's what this channel is for and it only works with your update.
Why do you have the PSPE style electrode when the DFE style electrode is what’s recommended for non-turbo applications?
DFEs were not available for my 1999 5S-FE Toyota engine when I purchased these plugs and NGK says PSPEs work perfectly fine in my engine. I have to agree with them, and if DFEs do become available at some point, I still wouldn't switch them out as the gains would be infinitesimal.
Hey what is the best spark plugs for Toyota Rav4 2013 LE AWD, with 100 000km?!? Please!
Not to sound like a schmuck, best in terms of what... Longevity, price, reliability??? Typically, the OEM plug is what's recommended. Dedpending if you want a plug to last for a stupid long time, Rutheniums and Iridiums and even platinum lasts really long time in a modern engines (if it's in good shape). Indexing any plugs will possibly squeek out a tiny bit more HP. Sorry, you need to define "best".
Dbf Crell heyy man!
So yesterday i took the NGK Rutheniums for spark plugs and for the ignition coils i took Denso, what do you think about this?
@@mohamadali.h4754 Hmmm... The parts you have are definitely excellent, but are only as reliable as the weakest part of your ignition system. If your ignition wires and boots are all good and all connections are rock-solid and moisture proofed, then your engine is as reliable as it can be using these parts.
Make sure to change out that pcv, these & the 3SFE's known to sludge due to a faulty valve. 👌
Oh definitely... I'm always on top of my engine's circulatory systems as well as 5k oil changes.
The plug second from the left looks like that cylinder is running a little lean. Might want to check the injector
Yeah, thanks I see that. If that injector isn't going to be cleaned by fuel injector cleaner, it's about as good as it's gonna get.
Put in manual focus on an Android, some IT man told me,,,???
Bore scope, not on a phone.
The tip of spark was "bouncing" between non focus, and nearly focus,,,,
Are you suppose to gap these spark plugs before installing or do they come per gapped?
As far as I know, most plugs are pregapped at the factory, usually to somewhere around .044", but you should ALWAYS recheck the factory gap.
Personally, I think more important than a few thousandths of correction in gap, the outter electrode be perfectly perpendicular to the center electrode. This makes for the best reliability of spark. Some say that changing the plug gap slightly on a n/a engine is similar to advancing or retarding the timing slightly, but with no idle rpm change like later cars with an ECU that keeps a constant idle speed.
Thanks for the info, I”ll going to buy these spark plugs for my Mustang Gt 🤟🏻 I think the ruthenium is better than the iridium or platinum.
Ruthenium should last the life of the engine.
I just installed them to my 2012 MB C300. Do you gave to re-gap them according to my car spec leave them as is?
If your engine is N/A (no turbo or supercharger) and the engine's gap spec is within a few thousandth of where they come out of the box. I'd leave them, but I'd check them to make sure they are all at identical gap. Check engine performance and idle smoothness. If it's weird, regap to engine specs and see if that makes things better. They will probably be fine out of the box if your spec is near .044".
The camera shaking was making me dizzy lol No check engine light? no misfire? No decrease in fuel economy?
Sorry, using an iPhone. These plugs are rock solid. If they existed in 1999, I have no doubt they would have been the top choice for the OEM plugs more than the double electrode platinums Toyota used. No CEL, no misfires, no decrease in fuel economy whatsoever. Your results may vary.
Replaced oem denso spark plugs this morning with the ruthenium ngk spark plugs on the 2011 lexus is250 with 120,057 miles so far so good drove about 200 miles today
Please keep us posted here on longer term results. Are you noticing any differences.
I would love an update on how they're doing in your is250. I have a 2014 is250 and I know it needs new plugs and would love to use these. If you end up responding, thank you!
Piri, please update us on your NGK Ruthenium plugs. People with is250s are waiting to hear if there's any improvements. 3 months should give you some idea.
I’m looking at these for my 15 is250… UPDATE US
I just installed these on my accord with the k24z2 engine. I'm super interested to see how long they last
I think most people switch out plugs, not because they're bad, but more because they think they should according to some interval or because they think there's a better design or technology out there. These plugs should last the life of your car or until other engine component failure fouls or burns them.
gonna install these on my k24 accord also
Did you notice an increase in gas mileage or performance?
@@SereneSounds4K I definitely did on my 99 Toyota 5SFE 4 banger
@@SereneSounds4K My original plugs were still good, I was just upgrading. I replaced them as soon as I got the car, so I wasn't able to measure a difference, but the car runs great and without issue, so they definitely don't hinder performance
I just got these for my bmw 2011 323i with the n52b25 engine. Cant wait to try them because the old ngk laser platinum plugs are at 100k km and I feel it.
ewww... I don't get the obsession with BMW,...one of the most unreliable, overpriced pieces of shit on the market, right next to Audi... a suckers market I guess, lol
@@Jay-qb5vg they’re only unreliable if you treat it like shit and don’t do the proper maintenance. I’ve owned my e90 for 3 years and it’s been very reliable
@@elijahlindo 3 years is not long enough, but hey man... consider yourself lucky, I know way too many disgruntled BMW owners!
I've owned my e39 m5 for 14 years and 70K cathartic mi. had a starter crap out on me... push started and replaced the next day.
It eats maf sensors every 2 years($200). also snacks on valve cover gaskets every 30K mi. ($70)
I do all the work myself and it's in very good condition. I admit it has consumed inordinate portions of the weekend but it's a magnitude of order more fulfilling and educational than coughing up $175/hr to someone less caring & meticulous
subscribed to get you up to 200 nice video
I appreciate that. Never looked at my subscriber numbers before. I don't really make videos for likes and subscribers. I only do it to help people, which I hope it helped you in some way.
Its Funny how plugs are marketed. I remember in my 03 Cobra the cheap 1 dollar copper plugs worked the best. It was insane lol
Copper is the best conductor but wears out very fast. Copper also dissipates heat very well so they are great for boosted applications like your termi to reduce detonation. The problem is you need to change them every 15k
BTW all today’s plugs are copper CORE plugs . Platinum , Iridium ,Ruthenium , etc plugs just have respectively such a tips welded on top of the copper cores electrodes . Ground electrodes has copper core as well . The precious metals are used because they are much less prone to oxidation and because of that allows very thin diameters of electrodes tips . This results in much lower gap breakdown voltage , much more consistent and concentrated spark and very high longevity. As a result the idle is more stable , the acceleration is faster, the fuel consumption is lower , the exhaust gases are cleaner . That is why all modern cars comes OEM with Iridium, Platinum plugs . Ruthenium is just the next step further and really make spark plugs maintenance free.
Did you have to adjust the gap of these plugs? If so, how did you do it?
No, I just checked them and installed them. However, I have heard other people needed to gap their Rutheniums. Also, a very spark plug savvy person wrote in and said that you could widen the gap by .001" or .002s for a normally aspirated engine only. It would be like advancing the timing slightly, so your idle may increase by just a small amount. I may try that next time I pull them out, But before I do I will check with NGK
@@dbfcrell8300 That's interesting. I checked and my 01 subi forester is supposed to be gapped at .044 as is your 99 camry, but since you didn't gap yours and it runs smoothly, you think i would be ok at leaving them at the 0.032 factory gap?
@@Vi3tboyshorty I'm not an expert, so I'm not quite sure how to make that call. If .032" is the factory gap setting for your OEM plugs, then the Rutheniums should come as .032" or be very close to that, or I think you'd have the wrong plug. One of the key points of "gap" as I understand it is that the electrodes run as 90º to each other as possible. If you were to bend the side electrode .012" to meet factory spec, you'd distort the uniformity in the gap, which can't be good. While increasing or decreasing the gap width a few thousandths is not a big deal, .012" is too much IMHO. I would definitely ask NGK this exact question.
Deciding if i want to put in my gmc sierra has 82,000 on it
They are not that much more $$$ than OEM plugs and should last the life of the truck, if of course, the engine has no other internal failures that foul or wreck the plugs.
@@dbfcrell8300 okay i orderd some today gonna try them hoping they last the life of the truck yeah they arent to bad priced either. Appreciate the help feedback
People that don't know this spark plugs really meant for premium fuel only just stick with Iranian if you don't run premium fuel with them plugs they only last year 20,000 miles
Not sure where you get that info, but that's not what we've seen at all. Thanks for your comment
Don't know what you mean by cleaning your plugs. But never ever clean your plugs. You can damage them, infact ruin them permanently. That goes with any sort of spark plug for that matter. Wipe the threads sure. No wire brushing no scrapping around with a screw driver.
Not sure where you're getting that info from, but people have been cleaning plugs since there have been plugs. If one desn't know what they're doing and harms the electrodes and scrape up the insulator, well then they deserve what they get, but use half a brain and the plug will be better than when you removed it. I use either carb cleaner or CRC electric motor cleaner, a pick and Micromesh to clean them. Micromesh is a nonabrasive cloth-backed polishing material that comes in grits ranging from 1500 to 12000. It was originally designed to remove scratches from fighter jet canopys. Fresh 4000 grit Micromesh will make your fingernails gloss more than nail polish. That's why the manicure industry uses it. Micromesh will not remove metal, especailly since all my Micromesh is real old from the 1990s. 2400 removes carbon build up and 4000 makes the ruthenium shine. All perpendicular edges remain sharp and intact. I don't touch the ceramic. My plugs work great. You CAN clean plugs... trust me!
You don't put grease on the tread
I hope you didn't
Yes, I know now, thanks. And I did initially use anti seize and the plugs are just fine. The use of anti seize on NGKs can only can affect the torque spec that virtually no one, including dealers and other professionals, ever adhere to, so I'm not worried. It's not that big a deal as per NGK. I asked them.
I just purchased them for my old BMW so I'm hoping that it does what it's supposed to do oh and I used to have a 94 Camry I bought it from my brother-in-law's brother then I got this BMW and I sold it back to him and I regret that
Well, it's not a miracle plug... if the car is tired and has low compression or other issues, it may give it a tad more pep. These plugs will foul just like any other plug if the engine has a ton of blow-by or worn valve seals or other things related to an old engine. If your engine is healthy, that's when you see the most benefit. Keep us posted.
Hi sir, Can you tell real or fake ngk... there are so many sale fake ngk on internet
If you get them from RockAuto they are real as they'd have a lot to lose. Get them on eBay for less money and they're fake. Amazon could be either, so look for clues on the box for anything that's out of character or done poorly.
@Dbf Crell Thank you , you have a wonderful weekend
What is the best spark plug between NGK Ruthenium HX and BOSCH double iridium?
Please define best.... longest lasting, most efficent spark, best gas mileage? Do you plan on indexing them? Both plugs you mentioned are great plugs.
IMHO, OEM plugs in an unmodified engine are no doubt the safest if you're not sure.
Do the ruthernium
@@AK47-Addict Okay, but remember.... if they turn out to not work out in his engine, it's on you.
@@dbfcrell8300 My car is Nissan Sentra 2003. And now I'm using BOSCH double iridium 9613 Spark plugs. It's very good, more efficient, more pickup and less carbon. But my car also can use NGK Ruthenium HX LFR5AHX. So I need to verify what is the best spark plug of both of them?
Thank you.....
@@nuwanherath736 NGK has an excellent design with the HX. The ruthenium is longer lasting than iridium and they handle heat better and seem to be better at self-cleaning scale off the electrode and insulator. My vote is for ruthenium, hence, my video.
you should put some nickel anti-seizing compounded on your thread if you plan to leave there more than a year.
Actually, a few months ago, I learned that NGK recommends not to use anti-seize on their plugs. They say it can mess up their torque spec and all their plugs have a special anti-seize hard coating. I contacted NGK directly to confirm this. I told them I no of one that torques spark plugs, except newbies with OCD. They said anti-seize is not recommended. Who knew?
@@dbfcrell8300 to be completely honest with you I don't torque them because I don't have a torque wrench in inches pound, but I put a bit of anti-seize to be on the safe side, and I check them every 2 or 3 years, it is the first time that I use those ruthenium plugs, it might be just an impression but I think it idle smoother.
@@budblack3588 My idle was soother too upon installing these. When I pulled them at 31K miles to make my latest NGK Ruthenium video ( czcams.com/video/oY9JwdLaN8g/video.html ), I re-gapped them from the NGK factory gap to .044" which is what Toyota calls for for my engine. My car now idles like before I installed these plugs and oddly I seem to be getting about 2-3 MPG more. I'm still in testing phase, so stay tuned!
Bought these for my 2007 nissan frontier with the 4.0 vq engine it runs so smooth and quiet now its ridiculous and the idle is now smoothed out as well as very good acceleration over stock plugs my mom has a 2008 xterra with some kinda of 3 to 4 prong design and my truck with these ruthenium runs better.
Nice, same for my 06 350z. Runs so quiet and smooth.
My try these on my 2006 subie sti
Thanks Neil deGrasse Tyson!
Uh, your welcome I guess.
What an awesome voice to sound like. Makes the video fun to listen to.
Ruthenium?
yessir!
I replaced the Denso Iridium with LPC Intelligent Spark Plugs on my 2007 Prius and the engine is now peppier and the average went up from 40-41 MPG to 43-44 MPG.
Every Toyota engine that is using the intelligent Spark Plug becomes peppier and will have at least couple MPGs better fuel efficiency.
Here is the link to a short video about the Intelligent Spark Plugs: czcams.com/video/b45IWWaz6Lo/video.html
Hi, thanks for creating awareness about your new plugs. Is there any 3rd party testing on them yet? If you'd be willing to send me a set to evaluate, If I find favorable results, I will make a video of my findings similar to my initial NGK Ruthenium video which the video above is based on. I will also put links on both my Ruthenium Check-Up videos to the ISP video so people can find it easier. Please let me know if you can do this.
Pulling spark plugs out on a warm motor , not a good idea 😐
Heat expands metal which is why mechanics often heat parts to remove them.
@@dbfcrell8300 old comment i know, but this is the one case heat is not great. The plugs normally expand differently to the block and u can break them off easier.
I have a 6.2L F150 needs 16 plugs :lol:. Could get expensive.
The truck was expensive, so....
@@dbfcrell8300 May be worth it if it saves gas. Plugs are actually less than Double platinum Ford ones purchased at a dealer.
Rule#1 use the spark plug is called for in you vehicle's manual
Right, I agree. Did exactly that for 4 decades. But speaking for myself, I'm truly glad I broke that rule, cause after 46K miles, these plugs have been a total win in every way.
What is #1 when a car is manufactured may be outdated tech 10+ years later. Plus, may car makers want to keep maintenance low. So they may not install the highest end parts. Of course this varies on manufacturers. If you have an 2005 non of the new tech was even around to be considered. I broke the honda transmission fluid rule and added Royal Purple Automatic Transmission fluid back in 2015 no issues at all. Sme rules don't make sense. A downgrade is dumb but, to upgrade can only help. I believe the honda calls for a synthetic blend transmission fluid. So, a full synthetic isn't a problem. The problem is using cheaper parts. Rather than upgrades from new tech. This is my opinion of course. But, if your car isnt running well why use the same parts. I'd rather upgrade rather than use 2005 tech in 2022. (My cars a 2005)
@@Sublimer79
😄 I agree with you.
Mileage on my car 5 years Honda is 85k and notice a sudden slight jump on the rpm at idle 1 minute after cold start.
Engine sound normal, engine oil/filter and CVT oil change a week ago, so I will get the Spark plugs replaced with this Ruthenium when stock available.
@@metzmatu8409 the spark plugs were cheapest at RockAuto and they were super fast shipping about 2 days. Though the car seems to run well. I'm really curious what will happen when I change them. (My RPM doesn't seem to jump it stays high until the car warms up. (it seems to be a way to quickly warm the car up.) I can watch the RPM drop once its about halfway warmed up. I'm actually adding 1 quart of 0w16 to 0w20 oil if memory serves. Figured it could help with the winter starts. Plus, Im curious. It I can get the milage up. I doubt it will harm anything. If it can protect a turbo i doubt it will harm a VTEC engine. (The engine uses 3.2 QTs) so its only a little lighter overall. I don't want to push my luck.
I used them on a g37 n run well.but these wasn't out when my car come out yet!
ITS ALL IN YOUR HEAD
Hahaha
🤣🤣🤣