Part 4 How to install a ring pinion in the driveway & setting up preload D44 M220 M210 crush sleeve
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- 0:00 Intro
1:30 Pressing on a pinion requires a press (use your friends)
2:15 Installing the race (find your spacer in video 3)
3:30 Install your pinion into the differential housing
4:05 Install the pinion flange
6:45 Install the washer and nut
7:00 Use impact to setup zero endplay
7:30 Zero endplay reached
8:45 Crush preload reached
9:15 Crush preload checked
10:00 Cross check inch pounds
10:30 Closing remarks
11:10 Steaks paid for shop press use
11:45 Send it! You can fix it!
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1. You don't lightly sand bearing races to get them go in easier by removing the .05 press in tolerance , they need that press tolerance for a reason so they don't spin in the housing.
2. You checked break away preload and not rotation preload , which is what you check while turning it after breaking loose from standing start. You'll never have the preload right in the car with the axle in that location and using a beam wrench.
It's been rolling for 3 years and my TJ has been good for 16 years. If it ain't going in you have to take a thousandth off. If you've done these before you'd know that. But yes if I had heat I could have got it in there but I get it. That is the right way but I have never seen a race spin in any axle before. So it is what it is.
@c130aviator I have seen many races spin in housings, maybe 3 a year or more sometimes. I've never ever had a problem installing a race. When they don't go in its because it wasn't inline correctly. However, you didn't check the preload right either, all that shown was breakaway load, not the preload.
At the end of the day, it is most definitely not good to make a video as an authority and say this is ok when it is not. I do this professionally, not as a you tube content creator.
I’m about to purchase a gladiator and now am wanting a sport so I can do this myself! Thank you for the content. Also, my dad was on Guam for 20 yrs as a biologist working on the brown tree snakes.
Thank you for your service!
Glad you mentioned lightly sanding the race and/or housing to facilitate installing the races. When I mention this to weekend warrior types they lose their minds! Read this: not most, but ALL BEARING MANUFACTURERS VERY SLIGHTLY OVERSIZE PRESS-IN BEARING RACES. This is done because most of the time gears are replaced due to a failure which can beat up or otherwise de-form the lands in the housing. If your housing is in perfect condition it's nearly impossible to install a new race even if it's not oversized! Great video buddy!! Kudos!
Awesome video ! It’s great because I had to replace all of my pinion bearings and carrier bearings and rear axle bearings In my garage under the truck and had to do it no press so I was actually able to freeze my pinion gear and lightly warm the bearings I use a toaster oven actually and popped right on carrier was the same deal.. Appreciate people like you put these videos up because they truly truly help . I learned a ton from CZcams.. Oh man but I did not know that you could send out or Jamall out any of the Reese way and I had to be on that race the inner race took me two days and I don’t even have a long handle on my bearing race driver set .. I almost gave up ..I’m glad I didn’t I finally got it but maaan
Oh, and Freeze you pinion (0°F)and 250° F heat your bearing. They drop/tap right on. I’ve been doing this for 20 years without any problems.
Removal of old bearing on pinion (if it’s a bearing swap) on an old pinion, angle grinder and cut off wheel carefully. If you nick it he pinion bearing surface, doesn’t matter. ✌🏼
You need to place the seal, then use the impact gun to getting closer but not too much. Then use the torque to keep reducing play of the pinion when the crush spacer get to the point of no play but the pinion turn free. Then the crush spacer will keep the bearings free but no play.
Harbor freight sells a front wheel drive bearing removal/installation tool that works really well for installing the races in pinions.
This is awesome stuff...
Keep ‘em coming.
Really liking the content!
Great video, Great explanations along the way ! You answered several questions I had about the process !
Thanks for the information and video
keep it up man ;)
Did u heat the housing with a torch because just chilling the raze won’t do it.
My problem is I have a Dana 44 super and i cannot get the crush sleeve to crush, im stuck about 1/16 out
So, after grt the preload, how tight do you tighten the pinion nut when put the seal in afterwards? Anybody???
missed out on the crush sleeve going in.
Sorry bout that. Went in the same way the old one came out.
Great video! But my hands are still shaking 😊
👍👌
I didn't see you put the crush collar on did you put it on through the back side after you slid the pinion gear in?. I see people really struggle to get the collar to crush with about 200lbs or so on the pinion nut, does your impact wrench do the whole job? Thanks
I believe this uses shims to set preload. I think all D44s used shims - some D30s used crush sleeves.
So I’m doing an 8.5 and I over-crushed the sleeve to about 40, I’m gonna try to do what you said about backing off the nut a bit but wouldn’t that make it a little sloppy?
Yes but it's a crush sleeve. Think about how that works. It's springy and spongy. If you back it off and it's loose you must replace it. If you back it off and it's still tight the tension is still there. It's not like using shims that you can get perfect. Crush sleeves offer a little forgiveness.
I backed it off and then retorqued it to 20 inch pounds and it feels tight, there isn’t any play in it but I’m a little concerned that once I start driving the truck things might loosen up and I don’t wanna trash a new setup, it’s in a K10 Squarebody with 33s and a small lift so I’m sure it’s going to put some pressure on it. And thanks so much for getting back to me, I really do appreciate it
How about a crush collar delete, are they worth getting?
no, not needed