ARB Compressor has a DESIGN FLAW! (but here's how to fix it).
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- čas přidán 6. 11. 2021
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you can get a remote filter re locator from arb so problem solved you can re route the intakes to cold air above wading depth.
Oh cool, I didn't know this kit existed.
Way easier that what i did, a larger i.d. inlet hose and a bracket to mount the filters.
Thanks!
@@jdesigns7239 you went on global social media to detail a “huge design flaw” without bothering to research optional components that remediate your alleged “huge design flaw”? That’s very, very poor commentary.
@@tungstentwohundredandtwent7007
The flaw is definitely NOT a huge flaw, it's a very small one.
As a creator, I unfortunately have to get ppl to click on my video (just as you did) by claiming outrageous things. This is how YT works sometimes.
If you can think of a better way to 'sell' this video to ppl I'm all ears.
@@jdesigns7239 your response is even worse than your original clip. You’ve gone from “huge design flaw”, quoted ad nauseum in your clip to “definitely not a huge flaw” when politely challenged, apparently all in the name of clicks. Just atrocious and leaves you with zero credibility. Just based on the “major flaws” and inaccuracies in your clip you should really be deleting it in its entirety but I suspect you won’t have the courage to do that.
It's $120 for two kits. 😮😮😮 I'd rather make my own. Just need dimensions and fittings.
Skip to 18:55 if you just want to see the solution. Spoiler alert it's relocating intake filter.
Fyi that red wire on the 3 pin connector is a constant hot output. You can use it to switch across the violet and red to turn on the compressor. You can get a square pin connector to insert on the housing that's missing that one pin. I made a 3 wire harness to go to the switch, using the red and violet to power on the compressor, the black wire is a ground which you can use for the other terminal for the switch illumination. The illumination power terminal to the dash lights. Hopefully that all made sense.
Sweet, so it has a purpose.
Thanks for sharing.
Great explanation on the compressor and the air behavior.
thanks! glad you liked it.
Love your channel
Thanks for the support!
The True known Flaw with this pump is the crank/piston screw, the pump was introduced with a M4x20mm black hardeen allen type screw, it was upgraded afterword to M5 because of the screw shearing issue(even the M5 sheared too!), and in 2017 they switched to M6 and c-clips to hold the piston rod in place, to stop it from walking. ARB does NOT include all the needed parts if you happen to have a sheared screw(and no parts available if you want to upgrade to the new size screw system), ARB Replacement Part 320303 is all you get! 👎
Good solution.
Im considering getting that Twin ARB compressor. I would also consider flipping the fan, so that it pulls air instead of pushing air, and bang!!! Easy solution. For when space is limited, like in the 4Runner 5th Gen.
I found after making this video that the fan barely moves air; its real just to cool the electronics.
However, I would advise against flipping the fan. A flipped fan could pull hot air from the pistons, heating the manifold and, more importantly heating the electronics. Not a good ideal IMO.
I have the twin arb compressor installed underneath the drive seat of my Tacoma. I run cold AC underneath the seat same time I run the compressor. The AC vent blows directly onto the arb comp so it’s always cool 😅
Free compressor intercooler, that's awesome.
As a commercial refrigeration tech, I am very familiar with compressors and pressure. I would say that the biggest design flaw that with these compressors is that the pressure switch isn't in series with the power of the compressors. When the relay sticks closed (which mine continues to stick closed), the compressor will get power regardless of the high pressure switch opening. Correct me if Im wrong, but I dont see a pressure relief valve.
I wouldn't be too worried about the air temperature on that pump, however maybe you can improve the cooling fan itself with a higher output one and test the temps. Cheers!
That's not a bad ideal.
Now that I have the pump running I see that the factory fan barely moves any air. With all the electronics in the way the pistons don't see much flow from the fan.
My theory: That RED wire is in there for the factory testing of the pump unit. They just plug in a test connector to the three-wire connector and the RED wire supplies power to the unit turning it on for the bench test. Not a problem at all.
I wonder why my compressor seems to be lagging when I have it on.
Like it’s gasping for air?
Have you looked in the VI-Air compressors? my friend uses theirs for his air system but they are bloody loud, however, they fill up his 5gal tank in a couple minutes. Dope Tacoma Build!
Thanks! Glad you like it.
I've had a Viair, good comp. IMO.
I don’t think this is a design flaw. It depends on the working environment. If you have an open air setup than yes, its not ideal to blow hot air onto the intakes. But these compressors are sometimes put into small spaces with very little airflow like in a box or under a seat. That small environment is going to heat up very quickly when the compressor runs so it could be beneficial to orient the hot air towards the intake so it gets taken out and away from that space as fast as possible. Might be why they left it like that because in an open air environment it probably doesn’t affect performance too much, but might impact it much more when airflow is limited. Would be interesting to test for this.
Hi Mate, just wondering how you've found the arb compressor since you've installed it? Have you had any issues with it being out in the elements? Cheers, Nick 👍🏻
I've had it out in the elements for almost two years now and it has been flawless; zero issues. It's a fast comp. too.
I have a new 'air system' video on the channel that shows where it has been living and how the intakes are routed.
Hope that helps.
A 33" tyre with it's pressure set at 32 psi when it heats up it varies by about 2 psi only.
Temperature variation depends on the input temp.
Hotter input = more fluctuation.
I like your idea for re location the air filters. Could you please send me the types and sizes of the fittings as well as the hose size. You should make up some kit's to sell. Thank you Ken.
No prob.
The fittings are 1/4" NPT to 3/8" OD (outer diameter) push connect air tubing.
Just make sure not to make the lines too long bc this will adversely effect compressor performance.
ARB states the max. line length in the instructions.
No need, there is a relocation kit sold by arb incase the compressor is submerged under water. Just go on the website
In addition to relocating the air intakes, take a lesson from Toyota and place a heat shield between your exhaust and the ARB to isolate it from a large heat source.
Good ideal.
Can u link the items bought to solve the flaw. Thank you
ARB makes a kit for it. Google 'ARB filter relocation kit'. I didn't know it existed before making this video and would have just used the it.
What size are the quick connections
There are 3/8 to work with the 3/8 lines.
I’m assuming you know what happens to the temperature of air when you compress it….. kinda like what happens when you run it through something like an air compressor??? I’m fairly sure the engineers that designed and built the compressor had more of an idea than someone who doesn’t know the difference between nuts and bolts.
Nuts? Bolts? I'm human, we make mistakes.
I don't doubt the Engineers knew what they where doing. In engineering there are always trade offs; in this case it was most likely a cost trade off that landed the intake next to the hot piston (most compressors are designed like this).
Never the less extending the intakes away from the pistons will help.
You do know that the ARB compressors are made for pumping your tyres up after letting them down when off road. I have both the single and twin and get accurate pressures from both.
Once the air has cooled through the hose connected to your inflator, the pressure is correct at the inflator.
Had them for years problem free. 🤷♂️
If the air doesn't cool before entering the tire the pressure with be artificially high. Once cooled the pressure will have dropped without opening tire valve.
Maybe the air is cooled enough before entering the tire, maybe not, I didn't check and results are application specific.
BUT that's only half the problem. When airing up, cool air (vs hotter air) entering the compressor will get to a target pressure quicker bc it's moving more molecules (cold air is more dense).
So that's the points to extending the inlets. Not necessary, but there will be a performance gain.
actually, they were developed first and foremost for actuating their air lockers. pumping up tires is just an added perk of onboard air
Can someone list the fittings and dimensions to make a relocation kit? Don't want to spend $120 for two ARB kits.
Search "ARB filter relocation kit". Its is around $40 and relocates both intakes.
I used the breather tube extensions anyway for the air intake so no hot air is breathed in with mine.
Yep. Added cost, but the way to go if you can.
Great vid. You have the same speech pattern, and ring in your voice, as The Corporals Corner channel, family by any chance?
Lol to the best of my knowledge we are not related. I was in the military; maybe that explains the common voice.
I'm glad you enjoyed the vid!
How to fix it?????????
Extend the intakes away from heat.
You might want to read up on Ohm's Law.
V=I(R)
What about it? Can you be more specific?
@@jdesigns7239 you're saying when a component fails or contacts become corroded, resistance will increase, draw more current and blow a fuse. By Ohms Law any increase in resistance of a circuit, assuming voltage doesn't change will draw less current through the circuit, not more.
@@wasbruce Voltage should be relatively constant bc of the alternator, so that makes since.
But then what would make something over draw current and pop a fuse?
Now I want to test this!
@@jdesigns7239 from experience as a former electronics technician, most things fail open. However a failed semiconductor (transistor, diode or chip containing them) will often fail closed, i.e a short circuit which will blow the fuse. Siezed motors will do the same.
That r should be capital “R” , same as “T”. It does matter
Lol In Pv=nrt equation? I really wish someone would standardize the way equations are written. I have seen the same equations written with different characters and it gets confusing sometimes.
Thanks for the heads-up tho.
Bla bla bla, if you’re having a issue just move the air intake
yeeep that is what i did.
design. not Desgin.
WHy do people say lets get into it, then STOP, before we get in to it? LIKE why just say buzz words...so freaking annoying.
Oops.
Engineer for sure, keeps referring to his Grade 8 nuts as bolts. For that reason, I am out!
Oops. I'm human, I make mistakes.
I liked the melting piston rings 🙄