How to Install the Incline Water Heater on Your Van | Ramble Van Build Series Episode 4
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- čas přidán 16. 12. 2022
- In today’s episode of the Ramble Van Build Series, we install what we consider to be the best water heater on the market to the Alaska Van. First we discuss some facts and features about the water heater then show you step by step how to install it into your van. At the end of the episode we test the system and share some safety information as well as some more benefits of why we think this is the best water heater on the market.
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-The Van Land Team - Auta a dopravní prostředky
One issue that is important is to prevent overheating the water. One of the two reasons engines use coolant mixtures is to prevent it from boiling when engine temps exceed the boiling point of water alone. If your coolant circulates through the calorifier for long with coolant temps over 212F, water in the tank will become superheated (defined as reaching temps over the boiling point at atmospheric temperature). Pressure in the tank will prevent it from boiling but as soon as it comes out of the tap, it will flash to steam. Thermostatic mixing valves alone cannot react to superheated water (upon release, the drop in pressure results in a combination of superheated water and steam erupting in the piping), so that is not an answer. I have a Surecal 20l being heated from my F350s 6.0l diesel which regularly operates at engine temps of up to 230F, it has superheated the water in the tank so this is not a theoretical exercise. I added an STC-3008 thermostat to both report tank temp and operate a US Solid 3/4" motorized ball valve to shut off coolant circulation when water temp reaches 180F. This is a potentially serious scalding problem.
Thanks, this is useful information to share
Interesting idea and product. It occurs to me that this system could do double-duty as an engine heater in cold climates for when a vehicle is engine-off for an extended period. Such as taking an overnight backpack or cross-country ski away from it. The design would have to add a circulating pump and have a by-pass around the engine thermostat. Of course, the battery and solar capacity would be major considerations.
thank you so damn much loved the vid great production quality perfect im gonna install one in my van
I bought this but I have a 2023 AWD 144. Do you have instructions on plumbing it into the coolant system of the new HO 4cly motors?
Love this option. Do you have a video describing how to 'mix' the water when it connects with the water system inside the van? Thanks so much.
Just make sure you have an alarm for your cold water storage as a heating element without water is probly a potential fire starter
I would like a product that I don’t need to plumb into my radiator. Why not take the heat from the muffler or something that won’t affect mechanical reliability
i thought the same thing a long time ago
I’ve learned a lot from your channel. Thanks. Doug Chick
Thanks Doug 🙏
Thanks for the video as always, where did you fit the pump for the hot water or doesn't it need one, thanks Switch
sweet system👍👍👍👍
Thank you for watching!
Looks like a robust system.
A How To Winterize for storage during cold weather would be an appreciated follow-up video.
I know how finicky those over pressure valves can be to re-seat so they don’t leak after activating or testing the valve due to to hard water, age and in the case of this installation-road debris.
I also agree with another post that the 12v connection should be “clocked” to tuck the wire up out of harms way.
Anyone who has ever driven in slush/snow knows it will cling and weight everything.
Wondering about that temperature selection dial in the debris also.
Can you comment on clearance issues for side steps bracket installs? (Owl Side steps in particular)
I guess my only question is are you using water with antifreeze in it sisters using the water from the engine and radiator how does that play into all this ??
Interesting. Could mean just using a D2 Airtop Espar an Incline for water. I've never thought the D5's were that efficient for water.
That’s what we recommend- a diesel heater for air and a heat transfer like this for hot water. That’s the most efficient way to go!
This looks like a great product. Thank you for showing how and where to tap into the engine coolant lines, I've been looking for a good demonstration of that. This seems to mount in the same place as a popular grey water tanks. Where do you have your grey tank installed?
We have the grey tank on the opposite side, next to the gas tank. You could mount the heater on either side.
Is this avail for Ford Transits yet? If not, what comparable units do you suggest?
Very clear instructions. Nicely done. Would this tank fit under a Ford transit?
Haven’t tried it but the dimensions are on the website. I bet it would.
Whats holding the tank at the bottom
a small improvement would be being able to rotate the heater so that the input wire wouldn't face straight down and you wouldn't have to do such a hard bend in the wire...
Can this fit under a Transit?
The previous Calorifier you promoted (SureCal) had an embedded mixer on the tank avoiding any potential scalding issues. Would you recommend installing a similar device on this product prior to the hot water output? Seems risking running 150 to 170 degree hot water to the tap/shower! Also note, this seems like a much better design than the SureCal product in regards to mounting under the van. Nice job, thanks for the video!
Sorry... did you use a hot water side Accumulator/Expansion tank in this design or is the embedded relief/blow-off valve the only over pressure safety feature?
Yes, all of the water outlets that use hot water should have a mixer. You could install a single anti-scald valve as well.
Expansion is an issue and just letting the pop off go is a bad idea because it is not inclined to reseal easily, especially when it gets coated with mineral deposits. Two things, 1) Because of the expansion during heating, you need a check valve on the cold water inlet to prevent hot water from back flowing into the cold water side. 2) Once you do that, if you have an accumulator on the cold side such as at the pump, it will no longer buffer the heater tank pressure. The typical RV accumulator is made of plastic and not rated for the temperatures of the outlet. I've not found a small expansion tank small enough so I use an RV accumulator on the incoming water line between the check valve and the calorifier entrance. I have about 4ft of 1/2" PEX between them so when the hot water comes back down the supply line toward the accumulator, it has to back up that 4ft of cold water into the accumulator first.
Looks great and nice showing how it’s fitted, is this a better option than the isotemp heaters? Looks more robust. Also is this US only? I’m guessing maybe with only the wrong temperature units on the side 😜😂
This is the most durable option on the market but the main reason we live it is because it doesn’t reduce the clearance of the van. The isotemp is a large unit that would hang too low if mounted under the van.
did nit talk about living in really cold area like Canada eh! or with this especially cold spell out east canada and USA THEN WHAT YOU HAVE TO DRAIN YOUR BATTERIES TO KEEP THE WATER FROM FREEZING?
Or just drain the unit. The reality is- if you have a water system in your RV and it get a really cold, you have to drain and winterize the entire system. Vans are no different. This unit has a 12v heater that will make sure the water heater does not freeze if you want to keep using it during winter.
My water tank is on the drivers side of the van. Preference is to have the heater on the same side to minimize pipe runs. Can this unit be installed on drivers side of a 144” sprinter? Will the install kit still work or are the brackets only for the passenger side? Thanks.
Hi- there’s usually room to install on the drivers side, but the brackets are specific to the passenger side under the sliding door. Thanks for checking!
I am looking to build a van for skiing. Is there any issue with lines or the tank freezing if left in the van for extended perioids withouth idling? or is that what the electric element is designed to circumvent.?
If you are parking for extended period of time without running the engine, keep the element set to the lowest temp (50 deg.). The biggest risk is the pipes and pump inside the van freezing so make sure you address those as well. I’ve taken mine to Park City and Lake Tahoe on many trips this year with no issue. On the Park City trip, I didn’t drive my van at all for 5 days. I just keep the Espar running inside and the heating element set to 50.
I’m building my van to be a primary camper for cold weather, specifically skiing. There will be many days at sub zero temps and while the interior of the van may be warm, the engine will be off, and no water recirculating…what keeps the PEX lines from freezing (inlet/outlet lines)?
For cold weather applications- keep the inlet/outlets pipes as short as possible and wrap them in insulation. Their close proximity to the heater unit will keep them warm. Use Pex-A piping for all of your plumbing which won’t crack if it freezes.
Keep the 12v heating element set to 60 degrees to prevent freezing. Run the engine for 30 minutes twice a day to heat the water (good practice to keep the engine warm and diesel flowing anyway).
@@VanLand Thanks, great info. Any interference with electric swing out steps such as AMP research powered steps?
Can this system be used in cold climates? Is there a way to easily drain the tank? Thanks
Good question. Yes the tank has a drain on the bottom. For cold climates, the 12v heating element can be set to the lowest setting to keep the water from freezing. Just like every other part of a mobile water system, it should be drained if the vehicle is going to be out of use for multiple days in freezing weather.
if i already have hydronic heating system can this Incline Water Heater integrating with it?
No, it's not really designed to work with other hydronic heaters. This unit heats water, not coolant.
is this incline water can use in winter for -20 ？
As long the engine is running for part of the day, extreme cold won’t be a problem. If you’re not driving, the 12v heating element keeps the unit up to temperature (adjustable from 60 deg. to 160+ deg). If you’re parked for multiple days in those temps you’ll need to empty all of the water in the entire van just like any RV.
In this video czcams.com/video/NLMLRx1yJZ8/video.html you had previously mentioned that that was your favorite water heater, and so I purchased that one. Now I notice that you don't even have it listed in your store anymore. Is there a reason for that? Was there a problem with the one I purchased? I still have not installed it so I'm trying to figure out if I should still go through and install under the van as I had planned. Thanks again for your videos, they are super helpful for a 1st timer DIYer. :)
We replaced that one with this new version because it’s more durable, fits higher up under then van and has the adjustable thermostat.
I can guaranty you that will rust in winter time. the salt, sand and little rocks they put on the road during snowing days.
It’s all aluminum. No rusting.