Thank you, I received a SAL GP9 and it had cracked gears. Got the Athearn replacements, a #43, and it is good as new! Very good video, thank you so much!
Although this is 3yrs ago. Still a very Nice Information video. Thanks I too have to Search for deals on locomotives Diesel and Steam. Prices are HIGH right now and I have many good deals for my son and I. Have yet to spend over $200. And some of my recent Locos are BRAND NEW purchases with a few DCC Conversions of my own. Again Thanks For Sharing.👍😁
I actually repair the cracked gear with a set of sleeves in each of the stubs axles. Once the sleeves are pressed on I ream the axle holes so as to not reopen the crack. I also use nail polish on the metal axles to give it some adhesion and keep the wheel in gauge and from rotating in the plastic gear. It is almost permanent when done. Takes about 20 minutes to fix a loco. P Suhmann
Spotted a comment with regards to the coupler and coupler box, not found anymore so I'll just leave the reply here: I used the original Proto 2000 box. The Kadee 242 also fits in there but it is a hair narrower than the original box. The Kadee 5 is the standard go-to coupler for most people. The whisker version (uses two wires to center the coupler instead of a brass plate) of the 5 is the 148. The scale head version of the 148 (the 148 and 5 are regular heads) is the 158. And finally a short shank version of the 158 (the 158, 148, 5 are all medium shanks) is the 153. The 153 will look a lot nicer than the 5 when fitted onto the loco because it's smaller and allows closer coupling, but the 153 will be less reliable due to the smaller head and its swivel range will be more restrictive due to the shorter shank. It all comes down to personal preference.
Good to know those suppliers ,ty. I had gone to another business for replacement gears called shop.osorail.com/category.sc;jsessionid=C229EA55C9497BB32CE37C91AFEE832F.p3plqscsfapp004?categoryId=14 . They can make custom gears,wheels and other components too if you have an impossible part to replace,lol.
They also have a self contained drive mechanism for those looking for an easier power replacement called a Stanton Drive. That also as the ability to install a dcc decoder . However the stock stanton drive comes with all delrin plastic gears ...i would highly recommend all metal gears when ordering them for added strength and a good pull of freight consists.
NWSL is a great place to go as a last resort! Fortunately I haven't encountered a model that's required NWSL parts (except the Intermountain cab forward that used a NSWL motor)
Fantastic video, well done! The video is clear the best I've seen on CZcams instructional videos. Perhaps you could do a video advising others how to video tape their material. Again well done!
Thank you this info , I have done the same repair on my Walthers proto 2000 gp20 & also tried to convert the trucks to DCC but have not been able to isolate the frame. Im a U.K. modeller parts are not easy to get in the U.K. could you please tell me were to purchase a pair of dcc trucks for this gp 20
like your video. Last year i picked up 2 ATSF gp60's from taobao, brand new. Cleaned all transmission parts, because they were locked up by the wrong grease used and lubricated them with ATF, preventive replaced the gears with Athearn. The details are still good even according to today's standards. I build in TCS T4 Decoders and they run smooth.
way to go, but trans fluid can get into and ruin a motor. atf is a horrible conductor and even a tiny bit of it will overheat stuff. keep trying to run it and you'll need another motor. i've heard of that too, but I say spend a couple of bucks for a good synthetic or conduct-a-lube. be kind to your motive power.
@@tommurphy4307 The trick is not to over lubricate and use very little ATF. The bearing blocks I lubricated with a needle. The oil is only there to create a microscopic lubrication film. I have seen models come from the factory with the oil dripping out of the gear boxes and contaminating the track. So that is to much oil. When I lubricate nothing leaks oil.
I can't see the video for some reason. I have a TT scale KUEHN MODELL, brand new, bought from Germany, had it for at least 6 years, kept it in the original box, a few days ago I've decided to run it and guess what? the 2 powered axles from one bogies are getting stuck impeding the model to travel on either direction, I've removed the truck cover, pulled the 2 wheel sets out, inspected the gear, come to find out that they were sliding up and down the axles and plus the teeth wheels (with extended barrels on one end for alignment)the barrels were split, cracked all the way to the gear. So 130$ down the drain, the company does not offer spare parts. German technology made in China! BEAUTIFUL!
You should remove the motor brushes and clean the brushes and armature as part of the tune-up. If the loco has been used they will be dirty. If NOS, they may be corroded. The wheels should be cleaned for the same reason.
The Pennsy GP9 is my 'club fodder', which I leave at my local model RR club for weeks at a time. It is operated by many people there including myself. With regular maintenance it has not given me any trouble.
Thanks for watching! The frame is used for the right side pickup (red wire). Hardwiring a small decoder is not hard, just be sure to isolate the decoder and all wires from the frame.
@@DBRXCustomRailroadModels Is this locomotive N gauge? I have five bachmann locomotives and two have cracked gears. I don’t know if replacement part are still available shown in the exploded diagram that were included in the box. Maybe the gears you used in this video will fit?
nice very helpful , i bought a prr e8 the seller said he tested it and ran amazing with little run time for about $50. but when i got it it didn't move but the light worked. Is this the gearbox? HELP!!!
@2:45 you mention the name of the decoder, and I have played it over and over like 50 times. I even slowed the video down to 1/2 and 1/4 speed and STILL cannot understand what you are saying. Please spell out the brand name/manufacturer of the decoder for us. Thanks!
Thank you, I received a SAL GP9 and it had cracked gears. Got the Athearn replacements, a #43, and it is good as new! Very good video, thank you so much!
Great video and information. Very useful. Long live Proto!
I heard people complaining that DCC is so expensive. Heck, it sounds pretty cheap for what it can do.
Great Video...great instruction! I like the Proto2000 loco's since they are easy to "upgrade" and keeps the budget in line.
Although this is 3yrs ago. Still a very Nice Information video. Thanks
I too have to Search for deals on locomotives Diesel and Steam. Prices are HIGH right now and I have many good deals for my son and I. Have yet to spend over $200. And some of my recent Locos are BRAND NEW purchases with a few DCC Conversions of my own. Again Thanks For Sharing.👍😁
I subscribed to your channel and now getting around to watching. You do some fantastic stuff and very informative. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
I actually repair the cracked gear with a set of sleeves in each of the stubs axles. Once the sleeves are pressed on I ream the axle holes so as to not reopen the crack. I also use nail polish on the metal axles to give it some adhesion and keep the wheel in gauge and from rotating in the plastic gear. It is almost permanent when done. Takes about 20 minutes to fix a loco. P Suhmann
Excellent tutorial. You've got a new subscriber. Thanks
Great video with some very important information.
Awesome video dude! Exactly what was wrong with my mid-90s Proto FA2 loco. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
You nailed it! got a new subscriber. Thanks
Spotted a comment with regards to the coupler and coupler box, not found anymore so I'll just leave the reply here:
I used the original Proto 2000 box. The Kadee 242 also fits in there but it is a hair narrower than the original box. The Kadee 5 is the standard go-to coupler for most people. The whisker version (uses two wires to center the coupler instead of a brass plate) of the 5 is the 148. The scale head version of the 148 (the 148 and 5 are regular heads) is the 158. And finally a short shank version of the 158 (the 158, 148, 5 are all medium shanks) is the 153. The 153 will look a lot nicer than the 5 when fitted onto the loco because it's smaller and allows closer coupling, but the 153 will be less reliable due to the smaller head and its swivel range will be more restrictive due to the shorter shank. It all comes down to personal preference.
Good to know those suppliers ,ty. I had gone to another business for replacement gears called shop.osorail.com/category.sc;jsessionid=C229EA55C9497BB32CE37C91AFEE832F.p3plqscsfapp004?categoryId=14 . They can make custom gears,wheels and other components too if you have an impossible part to replace,lol.
They also have a self contained drive mechanism for those looking for an easier power replacement called a Stanton Drive. That also as the ability to install a dcc decoder . However the stock stanton drive comes with all delrin plastic gears ...i would highly recommend all metal gears when ordering them for added strength and a good pull of freight consists.
NWSL is a great place to go as a last resort! Fortunately I haven't encountered a model that's required NWSL parts (except the Intermountain cab forward that used a NSWL motor)
Fantastic video, well done! The video is clear the best I've seen on CZcams instructional videos. Perhaps you could do a video advising others how to video tape their material.
Again well done!
Thank you this info , I have done the same repair on my Walthers proto 2000 gp20 & also tried to convert the trucks to DCC but have not been able to isolate the frame. Im a U.K. modeller parts are not easy to get in the U.K. could you please tell me were to purchase a pair of dcc trucks for this gp 20
like your video. Last year i picked up 2 ATSF gp60's from taobao, brand new. Cleaned all transmission parts, because they were locked up by the wrong grease used and lubricated them with ATF, preventive replaced the gears with Athearn. The details are still good even according to today's standards. I build in TCS T4 Decoders and they run smooth.
Good to hear! Thanks for watching!
way to go, but trans fluid can get into and ruin a motor. atf is a horrible conductor and even a tiny bit of it will overheat stuff. keep trying to run it and you'll need another motor. i've heard of that too, but I say spend a couple of bucks for a good synthetic or conduct-a-lube. be kind to your motive power.
@@tommurphy4307 The trick is not to over lubricate and use very little ATF. The bearing blocks I lubricated with a needle. The oil is only there to create a microscopic lubrication film.
I have seen models come from the factory with the oil dripping out of the gear boxes and contaminating the track. So that is to much oil.
When I lubricate nothing leaks oil.
I can't see the video for some reason. I have a TT scale KUEHN MODELL, brand new, bought from Germany, had it for at least 6 years, kept it in the original box, a few days ago I've decided to run it and guess what? the 2 powered axles from one bogies are getting stuck impeding the model to travel on either direction, I've removed the truck cover, pulled the 2 wheel sets out, inspected the gear, come to find out that they were sliding up and down the axles and plus the teeth wheels (with extended barrels on one end for alignment)the barrels were split, cracked all the way to the gear. So 130$ down the drain, the company does not offer spare parts. German technology made in China! BEAUTIFUL!
You should remove the motor brushes and clean the brushes and armature as part of the tune-up. If the loco has been used they will be dirty. If NOS, they may be corroded. The wheels should be cleaned for the same reason.
Even brand new (like the ones I have) they will probably have cracked gears. Also, grease in gear towers may be shot.
You can get a used Proto unit at a train show (2019)for very cheap (
absolutely- NWSL will love you for it.
Excellent video.......very straightforward with awesome video footage. Has this locomotive been a reliable runner after the gears were replaced?
The Pennsy GP9 is my 'club fodder', which I leave at my local model RR club for weeks at a time. It is operated by many people there including myself. With regular maintenance it has not given me any trouble.
super video. I never bid on any of these sinxe i thought they be to much work to make dcc. always thought the motor was atatched to the frame
Thanks for watching! The frame is used for the right side pickup (red wire). Hardwiring a small decoder is not hard, just be sure to isolate the decoder and all wires from the frame.
@@DBRXCustomRailroadModels Is this locomotive N gauge? I have five bachmann locomotives and two have cracked gears. I don’t know if replacement part are still available shown in the exploded diagram that were included in the box. Maybe the gears you used in this video will fit?
nice very helpful , i bought a prr e8 the seller said he tested it and ran amazing with little run time for about $50. but when i got it it didn't move but the light worked. Is this the gearbox? HELP!!!
brushes/brush springs. make sure you get all the chinese crap out of there before you install the kato brushes!
I use athearn wheels 40"
3:38
@2:45 you mention the name of the decoder, and I have played it over and over like 50 times. I even slowed the video down to 1/2 and 1/4 speed and STILL cannot understand what you are saying. Please spell out the brand name/manufacturer of the decoder for us. Thanks!
LaisDcc - Mobile Decoder. Looks Very similar to dcc concepts.
Lifelike was garbage before the Proto's came along.
i disagree- the proto semi-can motors tend to eat brushes and cook brush springs- the older open-frame motors not nearly so much.
Chinese?