Need help on a few minor items such as steering column choices, 12V wiring harness types to use, gauges and sending units that are compatible with each other.
Mark - I put the seat in first before attempting to locate the steering wheel and used the rear seat from a Ford Explorer. Seat brackets came from another donor truck. Once I had the seat where I wanted it, I sat down, pulled it forward to determine where the steering wheel went. I had to lengthen the column between universal joints. Remember that people's lives depend on quality work.
one sending unit pick your side plug the other. I usally buy what ever speedway has on sale for wiring harness a gm unit is fine its all labeled (and cheaper). get a 3 on the tree colunm from 40 up to about 53 ford car or truck and use it with a cable works well. once you decide on a seat then you can determine column length your going to have to cut it off the steering box and add a bearing in the in of the column anyway i use a collar lock bearing 1.5 od and 3/4 id if i remember correct. Gauges for a 40 are everywhere just decide if your converting to 12v neg ground or maintaining 6v pos ground.
I heard about using a 3 speed stick column and make an indicator for it, great idea but...an aftermarket column is probably the best route. Where is the length taken from, I see 33" 38" and everthing in between. Wiring will be 12volt without a doubt for many reasons. Everything I get, I always think of the next guy who has to work on it and or replace something, need to keep it stupid proof if you know what I mean. Don't want a whoops factor trying to install all of this either. Thanks Mike
I don't know anything about old 6v stuff but you could probably get a buck converter that converts 12v to 6v to run the dash and sending unit. It's basically a dc step down transformer. I don't know what the operating voltage of a 6v system is prob 7v I guess. They do make adjustable ones. You would have to make sure it had the amperage output you need. I would overbuild it and make sure it is capable of twice the current it will actually take. I think they draw a bit even with no load so probably want the 12v input side switched to ignition.
Good point that I didn't think of with the stock gauges. Definitely going 12v, I've seen replacement gauges for the stock units and would think they make 12v ones. Thanks for the input.
Speedway has less expensive columns if you want to go aftermarket. I have seen someone take a column out of a ‘40 car that manual shifted on the column originally and made it work for an automatic. I never saw underneath the car for the details. But it looked factory but was an automatic.
Also American Autowire 13 Universal looks like it could be enough. They also offer 15, 20 and 22 it looks like. But keeping the flathead and a c4, I’m not sure what you’d need the extra circuits for. They mention with the 13 there are enough for heat/AC and electric fan.
@@Pitlane326 I have a 1940 Ford Pickup but it is a resto mod. 350 Chevy/350 turbo/gm type steering column unfortunately as I am a Ford guy. Just sold my Mustang and bought a Ranger XLT 4 by 4 off road which I like. I miss the 5 speed and the cd player but not trying to get out of the Mustang at age 74.
@@jerrylong1344 I'm kind of doing the same, C4 trans, Ford 9" rearend but using an 8BA flathead. Want to make sure the trans is in the correct location incase I need to put in a 289 or 302. I live in the desert and usually 110 plus during summer time, heard flatheads overheat. I'll probably put bigger heads on it buy still not sure how it will handle the heat.
@@Pitlane326 I am just south of Indy. Been about 100 degrees here and dry. I bought the truck from Massachusetts 9 years ago. I had to have a few things fixed, fuel line, rebuild of the Heidt Mustang 2 front end and the after market engine parts needed to be machined in order to fit properly. It is 2002 Ford Thunderbird inspiration yellow with and all leather bucket seat interior. Mustang rear end. Magnaflow exhausts, Elderbrock intake, Holley 600 carb, air, PS. Very nice perhaps 225 hp at the most. It will overheat pretty fast if sitting even though it has an electric cooling fan. It has stock red 1940 ford wheels and hub caps.
Check ididit. You get what you pay for, as far as quality. The cheaper have bad reviews. Plus they plug into the painless kits, and they have column shift with tilt. I got a universal 30 in tilt. 3 in drop.
Mark - I put the seat in first before attempting to locate the steering wheel and used the rear seat from a Ford Explorer. Seat brackets came from another donor truck. Once I had the seat where I wanted it, I sat down, pulled it forward to determine where the steering wheel went. I had to lengthen the column between universal joints. Remember that people's lives depend on quality work.
Thank you, I'll keep an eye out for a Ford seat.
one sending unit pick your side plug the other. I usally buy what ever speedway has on sale for wiring harness a gm unit is fine its all labeled (and cheaper). get a 3 on the tree colunm from 40 up to about 53 ford car or truck and use it with a cable works well. once you decide on a seat then you can determine column length your going to have to cut it off the steering box and add a bearing in the in of the column anyway i use a collar lock bearing 1.5 od and 3/4 id if i remember correct. Gauges for a 40 are everywhere just decide if your converting to 12v neg ground or maintaining 6v pos ground.
I heard about using a 3 speed stick column and make an indicator for it, great idea but...an aftermarket column is probably the best route. Where is the length taken from, I see 33" 38" and everthing in between. Wiring will be 12volt without a doubt for many reasons. Everything I get, I always think of the next guy who has to work on it and or replace something, need to keep it stupid proof if you know what I mean. Don't want a whoops factor trying to install all of this either. Thanks Mike
I don't know anything about old 6v stuff but you could probably get a buck converter that converts 12v to 6v to run the dash and sending unit
I don't know anything about old 6v stuff but you could probably get a buck converter that converts 12v to 6v to run the dash and sending unit. It's basically a dc step down transformer. I don't know what the operating voltage of a 6v system is prob 7v I guess. They do make adjustable ones. You would have to make sure it had the amperage output you need. I would overbuild it and make sure it is capable of twice the current it will actually take. I think they draw a bit even with no load so probably want the 12v input side switched to ignition.
Good point that I didn't think of with the stock gauges. Definitely going 12v, I've seen replacement gauges for the stock units and would think they make 12v ones. Thanks for the input.
Iowa, Thanks for the info.
Speedway has less expensive columns if you want to go aftermarket. I have seen someone take a column out of a ‘40 car that manual shifted on the column originally and made it work for an automatic. I never saw underneath the car for the details. But it looked factory but was an automatic.
Also American Autowire 13 Universal looks like it could be enough. They also offer 15, 20 and 22 it looks like. But keeping the flathead and a c4, I’m not sure what you’d need the extra circuits for. They mention with the 13 there are enough for heat/AC and electric fan.
Damn that's a great idea, gotta look into that one, Thanks BS, great name hahaha
Iron Trap Garage sells vintage Ford parts. Check out their youtube channel.
A lot of great info, it's adicting. Thanks Jerry
@@Pitlane326 I have a 1940 Ford Pickup but it is a resto mod. 350 Chevy/350 turbo/gm type steering column unfortunately as I am a Ford guy. Just sold my Mustang and bought a Ranger XLT 4 by 4 off road which I like. I miss the 5 speed and the cd player but not trying to get out of the Mustang at age 74.
@@jerrylong1344 I'm kind of doing the same, C4 trans, Ford 9" rearend but using an 8BA flathead. Want to make sure the trans is in the correct location incase I need to put in a 289 or 302. I live in the desert and usually 110 plus during summer time, heard flatheads overheat. I'll probably put bigger heads on it buy still not sure how it will handle the heat.
@@Pitlane326 I am just south of Indy. Been about 100 degrees here and dry. I bought the truck from Massachusetts 9 years ago. I had to have a few things fixed, fuel line, rebuild of the Heidt Mustang 2 front end and the after market engine parts needed to be machined in order to fit properly. It is 2002 Ford Thunderbird inspiration yellow with and all leather bucket seat interior. Mustang rear end. Magnaflow exhausts, Elderbrock intake, Holley 600 carb, air, PS. Very nice perhaps 225 hp at the most. It will overheat pretty fast if sitting even though it has an electric cooling fan. It has stock red 1940 ford wheels and hub caps.
Lucky Costa @ lucky's garage 9n you tube is a source for this knowledge
Ray, Jackpot !!! this is great, I'll be busy for hours learning. Thanks a ton
check out SPEEDWAY MOTORS
Will do
Check ididit. You get what you pay for, as far as quality. The cheaper have bad reviews. Plus they plug into the painless kits, and they have column shift with tilt. I got a universal 30 in tilt. 3 in drop.