Hi Ben, as a few guys said this before, the safest way of working with these springs is to use the spring compressor (ideally the one with a single rod which goes where the shock would be). For disjointing tie rods aetc I use a joint fork, it's super simple and the best tool I ever bought😂
I built that tool according to the specs I found on the interwebs (the threaded rod and shock post tool)...I made the shock section a touch thicker that the plans call for. I haven't tried it yet but the tool seems pretty damn beefy.
I always use a chain thru the spring coils and then around the cars frame. Then run a hefty bolt with a nut thru the chain. Just uncase the spring decides to not stay put. Great video
I put the Jack under the control arm which held it from flying down while I was disconnecting the ball joints, once loose then I lowered the Jack slowly and was able to just reach in and take the spring out to replace it.
There are spring compressor that prevent the spring from expanding. It has a threaded rod that holds the spring. once one of the A- arms (upper or lower) is free the threaded rod is loosened in a controlled manner, thereby releasing the compression from the spring.
Yes i would also highly recommend using spring compressors and or at least a ratchet strap through the spring and around the frame, to keep the spring from flying out.
I've found disconnecting the lower control arm from the frame works well, leaving the ball joints connected. Use the jack, remove the 3 bolts, the lower control arm can be lowered and fully relieve tension from the spring.The angle is better, the control arm has a greater range of travel. Much better control and less drama.
When removing the shock, If I have difficulty I usually use a box end wrench, and then put a second wrench on the squared end of the shaft and usually have no problem using that approach. Always enjoy your videos Ben. 🤙🏼
This is awesome! Doing my ‘69 front end this winter. Someone did it in 1998 and I just realized that was 25 years ago and 30k miles. It’s got 59k on it now and it’s time! Thanks for this! And yes I got a lift. I’m 56 and can’t do the driveway anymore! Ha! Great channel
A ratchet strap around those springs has always worked for me. Better than risking them flying across the shop, through the wall and killing mommas prize egg laying chicken.
Good job Ben, last time I took off a spring , I tied a ratchet strap on the spring with just enough tension, So IF this thing decides to fly, it would at least hold the spring in there and prevent it from flying. I have to do the lower control arms soon, so your tips are just in time. Thanks
Well done Ben. Being the cynical type, I would bet the person that changed that caliper for the owner charged him for new pads...seen that trick a couple times.
I'm incredibly happy to see you back! Your channel is my absolute favorite! I think you have done an incredible job of creating your new shop. I admire your hard work and organization as well as your incredible knowledge of C3 Corvettes along with the other cars you work on as well. I have a 1977 Corvette that I love. Welcome back my friend you have definitely been missed. Looking forward to the next video.
I pretty much do the same thing you did, except for the. I usually put a tow through it, and wrap around the frame once. And that will catch any stored Entergy from releasing on you. God bless
I bust the upper and the lower ball joint loose before I take the spring out. And the way I take the spring out is I take a cutting torch and cut the coils to relieve the pressure. Just make sure you leave the shock in it first before you cut the coils. The shock in the middle keeps the coils together. After you cut about three of the coils then go ahead and take the shock out. And then it comes out in pieces. So much easier and you don't have to worry about your life.
Great video Ben. I have a special shock removal tool that keeps the shaft from spinning. I did my lower and upper control arm bushings without a lift. Used the two jack method. Your tips are the best.
7:11 - Those are really cool. I got one a few years ago and I wish I have found one 40 years ago. They are so much better than a fork. 15:37 - Instead of the sketchy part, do it the right way and the safe way. A simple 1/2 or 5/8 threaded rod about 24 to 36 inches long goes down through the shock tower hole. Use a couple of large washers on the top with either a long barrel nut or two nuts. On e nut is the compressor; the other is the safety nut. Keep the upper second nut close to the lower compression nut so that if the compression nut begins to strip threads, you will have the second nut to catch it. good quality threaded rod shouldn't strip, but you can't tell where it came from or quality anymore. Ensure you have about 6 inches of rod above the nuts. Use a large plate or bar across the lower shock hole, with a couple of washers and a couple of nuts or a barrel nut snugged to the washers. tighten the upper nut(s) to compress the spring. Remove the lower control arm inner pivot bolts. Slowly loosen the upper nuts to uncompress the spring. 14:58 - THAT'S the part I came for. That is the part you need to show.
Thanks Ben, im in the middle of doing my front end. Now i can do the drivers side safer. Its a 75 and your ,how to buy a C3 vid ,way back got it started.
What happened in my case is the flex hose end to the hard line was sized, so if you don't want to remove the hard line too, I guess you unscrew it from the caliper,,, I guess, cheers.
Great video Ben! Very helpful info as always! Curious why you wouldn’t use a spring compressor? Also previous guy replaced only one caliper, and reused hose and pads. SMH This is why I only work on my shit.
Hey Ben, Why Don't You Take Two Old Shocks, strip the Parts off of the Shafts, Weld The Inner Ends Together, then use the Existing Shock Mounting Points to Retain The A-Arms From Movement? Then You Just Unscrew Them Like A Shock, Safe & Simple!?!! 😉
Any recommendation on suspension rebuild kit? Also, a video on the A-arm bushing removal and replacement would be awesome. There are others out there, but I am sure you’d make a better one.
GREAT JOB Ben !! I NEED A TOTAL FRONT END REBUILD ON MY 68 CORVETTE ,IT'S ALL ORIGINAL ,AND SQUEAKS BAD !! WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED ?? PLEASE LET ME KNOW? THANKS JESSE VIA LAS VEGAS
Genuine question, why don't you use a spring compressor tool (can rent from Advance, O'Reilly's, etc) instead of removing the spring in a "sketchy" way?
Ben, or anyone here, have a recommendation to get the upper control arm stud nuts off on passenger side? I have a 76' and there is no room to get a wrench on the nut near the fan shroud. Do I take the shroud off and what else?
It the difference between a hack and a person such as your self who knows spend the extra money and get all the worn parts replaced.I would not want to explain to my insurance company why a cheep brake hose was not replaced and failed causing a complete failure and totaled the car and god forbid kill or damage some one else or them self.
Yeah. I live 80-ish miles from his shop and we've had freezing rain, sleet, and subfreezing temperatures for three days straight. We finally thawed out today.
I worked at a Chevy Dealership body shop late 70's early 80's The owner of the dealership told me the only thing worse than fixing Corvettes is dealing with the owners. When I opened my own shop I just say no when a Vette comes in.
Hi Ben, as a few guys said this before, the safest way of working with these springs is to use the spring compressor (ideally the one with a single rod which goes where the shock would be). For disjointing tie rods aetc I use a joint fork, it's super simple and the best tool I ever bought😂
I built that tool according to the specs I found on the interwebs (the threaded rod and shock post tool)...I made the shock section a touch thicker that the plans call for. I haven't tried it yet but the tool seems pretty damn beefy.
I always use a chain thru the spring coils and then around the cars frame. Then run a hefty bolt with a nut thru the chain. Just uncase the spring decides to not stay put. Great video
Welcome to my world It’s -7 and -25 with the wind chill Definitely not out door working weather.Thanks for the tips.
Great video you have to be careful like you said with springs u always attach a safety rope or similar in case so it doesn't go flying
I put the Jack under the control arm which held it from flying down while I was disconnecting the ball joints, once loose then I lowered the Jack slowly and was able to just reach in and take the spring out to replace it.
There are spring compressor that prevent the spring from expanding. It has a threaded rod that holds the spring. once one of the A- arms (upper or lower) is free the threaded rod is loosened in a controlled manner, thereby releasing the compression from the spring.
Yes i would also highly recommend using spring compressors and or at least a ratchet strap through the spring and around the frame, to keep the spring from flying out.
Do you guys have a video of how to use one of those
I've found disconnecting the lower control arm from the frame works well, leaving the ball joints connected. Use the jack, remove the 3 bolts, the lower control arm can be lowered and fully relieve tension from the spring.The angle is better, the control arm has a greater range of travel. Much better control and less drama.
When removing the shock, If I have difficulty I usually use a box end wrench, and then put a second wrench on the squared end of the shaft and usually have no problem using that approach. Always enjoy your videos Ben. 🤙🏼
I used this technique yesterday and it worked perfectly. No drama and nothing went flying. Appreciate all the great videos and information!
This is awesome! Doing my ‘69 front end this winter. Someone did it in 1998 and I just realized that was 25 years ago and 30k miles. It’s got 59k on it now and it’s time! Thanks for this! And yes I got a lift. I’m 56 and can’t do the driveway anymore! Ha! Great channel
Great video Ben! I really enjoy the knowledge that you share about the C3 Corvette.
A ratchet strap around those springs has always worked for me. Better than risking them flying across the shop, through the wall and killing mommas prize egg laying chicken.
Good job Ben, last time I took off a spring , I tied a ratchet strap on the spring with just enough tension, So IF this thing decides to fly, it would at least hold the spring in there and prevent it from flying.
I have to do the lower control arms soon, so your tips are just in time.
Thanks
Just observed your wool cap” “Semper Fi “ brother!!!
Timely and informative, I have both front and rear to do on my ‘82. Any chance there’ll be a future video on the ‘82 rear suspension? Thanks!
Nice seeing you in the new shop Ben. Thanks John from Arizona
Well done Ben. Being the cynical type, I would bet the person that changed that caliper for the owner charged him for new pads...seen that trick a couple times.
I've done spring removal in this method, and I've used spring compressors. I tend to prefer using the spring compressor.
I'm incredibly happy to see you back! Your channel is my absolute favorite! I think you have done an incredible job of creating your new shop. I admire your hard work and organization as well as your incredible knowledge of C3 Corvettes along with the other cars you work on as well. I have a 1977 Corvette that I love. Welcome back my friend you have definitely been missed. Looking forward to the next video.
I pretty much do the same thing you did, except for the. I usually put a tow through it, and wrap around the frame once. And that will catch any stored Entergy from releasing on you. God bless
I bust the upper and the lower ball joint loose before I take the spring out. And the way I take the spring out is I take a cutting torch and cut the coils to relieve the pressure. Just make sure you leave the shock in it first before you cut the coils. The shock in the middle keeps the coils together. After you cut about three of the coils then go ahead and take the shock out. And then it comes out in pieces. So much easier and you don't have to worry about your life.
Sounds like it's time to get one of those hot dog heaters in that shop.
Thank you🤙
Great video Ben. I have a special shock removal tool that keeps the shaft from spinning. I did my lower and upper control arm bushings without a lift. Used the two jack method. Your tips are the best.
7:11 - Those are really cool. I got one a few years ago and I wish I have found one 40 years ago. They are so much better than a fork.
15:37 - Instead of the sketchy part, do it the right way and the safe way. A simple 1/2 or 5/8 threaded rod about 24 to 36 inches long goes down through the shock tower hole. Use a couple of large washers on the top with either a long barrel nut or two nuts. On e nut is the compressor; the other is the safety nut. Keep the upper second nut close to the lower compression nut so that if the compression nut begins to strip threads, you will have the second nut to catch it. good quality threaded rod shouldn't strip, but you can't tell where it came from or quality anymore. Ensure you have about 6 inches of rod above the nuts.
Use a large plate or bar across the lower shock hole, with a couple of washers and a couple of nuts or a barrel nut snugged to the washers.
tighten the upper nut(s) to compress the spring.
Remove the lower control arm inner pivot bolts.
Slowly loosen the upper nuts to uncompress the spring.
14:58 - THAT'S the part I came for. That is the part you need to show.
Thanks Ben
great video with really great tips on safety.
Thanks Ben, im in the middle of doing my front end. Now i can do the drivers side safer. Its a 75 and your ,how to buy a C3 vid ,way back got it started.
Much appreciated. Great over view.
Good video. Thanks
All good tips Ben!!!! Well done......
I use the same roller carts from IKEA! Lol 😂
DD'S speed shop uses a piece of half inch all thread in place of the shock, heavy duty washers and relieves the pressure.
What happened in my case is the flex hose end to the hard line was sized, so if you don't want to remove the hard line too, I guess you unscrew it from the caliper,,, I guess, cheers.
Hi Ben, Love your new shop
Wouldn’t a spring compressor tool keep you a little safer?I have seen springs fly out and go thru a cinder block wall.
You can keep the spring from flying by dropping rebar down through the spring. Better safe than sorry.
Semper Fi Marine...
Will Rogers said, the coldest that he had ever been was the winter he spent in Texas.
Thanks Ben, this is the next step in my '79 project. Do you have any tips for assembly, especially with respect to safe reinstallation of the springs?
Hi frame looks new.very nice.
Great video Ben! Very helpful info as always! Curious why you wouldn’t use a spring compressor?
Also previous guy replaced only one caliper, and reused hose and pads. SMH This is why I only work on my shit.
Compressor isn’t needed and super akward to use in any real sort of way. I’m working on a car just like that.
Hey Ben, Why Don't You Take Two Old Shocks, strip the Parts off of the Shafts, Weld The Inner Ends Together, then use the Existing Shock Mounting Points to Retain The A-Arms From Movement? Then You Just Unscrew Them Like A Shock, Safe & Simple!?!! 😉
Nice job.
Any recommendation on suspension rebuild kit? Also, a video on the A-arm bushing removal and replacement would be awesome. There are others out there, but I am sure you’d make a better one.
Shocks: "the other one is acting".
Thank you for this video! Not here on yet! Saving this video.
GREAT JOB Ben !! I NEED A TOTAL FRONT END REBUILD ON MY 68 CORVETTE ,IT'S ALL ORIGINAL ,AND SQUEAKS BAD !! WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED ?? PLEASE LET ME KNOW? THANKS JESSE VIA LAS VEGAS
Great video. but I'm going to attach a chain to my spring should it suddenly deploy.
Genuine question, why don't you use a spring compressor tool (can rent from Advance, O'Reilly's, etc) instead of removing the spring in a "sketchy" way?
What about the old Camaro front spring trick??
Old safe school way
A chain on the sprig. Simple
Why not leave the shock in place but loose to catch the spring or a pipe that is what I do
👍
Spring compressor?
Ben, or anyone here, have a recommendation to get the upper control arm stud nuts off on passenger side? I have a 76' and there is no room to get a wrench on the nut near the fan shroud. Do I take the shroud off and what else?
Why would you not want to replace brake calipers and lines when rebuilding thr front suspension? Thanks
On this particular car they have been replaced recently. But if they are I know yes go ahead and replace
-28 C here...
Why not use spring compressors to avoid the tension problem?
You can try, but compressors don’t fit. Waste of time and efforr
I wondered the same thing. Now I know. 😄
So C3s are rear steer cars…… I guess changing to front steer was one part of the “all new suspension design” for 1984?
👋👍
It the difference between a hack and a person such as your self who knows spend the extra money and get all the worn parts replaced.I would not want to explain to my insurance company why a cheep brake hose was not replaced and failed causing a complete failure and totaled the car and god forbid kill or damage some one else or them self.
get it out already lol
Sleeting in Texas????
Yeah. I live 80-ish miles from his shop and we've had freezing rain, sleet, and subfreezing temperatures for three days straight. We finally thawed out today.
@@wadechilds6671 That is bizarre!
I worked at a Chevy Dealership body shop late 70's early 80's The owner of the dealership told me the only thing worse than fixing Corvettes is dealing with the owners. When I opened my own shop I just say no when a Vette comes in.
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