Nope they are really there, maybe the gopro caught to muss in welding. Ben you might want to use a "ND filter" or a UV filter for the welding stuff, that may help.
Love the truss video, most likely a down the road upgrade for me personally. What really caught my eye was the lights mounted in the skid. My bumper and skid are being shipped now, would love to make an fog light set up similar to yours. Stay safe!
That is a clean looking truss and since you are there why not get the C-gussets and control arm skids done at the same time! Good info and description on pre and post heating the cast differential housing! Nice job Ben!
Appreciate sharing all your info and building progress. I got a 2010 JKU that I been buying stuff for I have Barns C gussets and about to order some more stuff. By the time all this stuff goes away I have 20 boxes of parts at the house lol.
When I did mine. I ended up burning out the locker sensor cause I let it in. That was about 6 hour job I had to do after putting everything back together.
Keep up the great work Ben. I’ll be welding on an IRO Ford 8.8 truss on the ZJ truck. I finally have some videos on my channel of the ZJ truck conversion.
Hey Ben, what about a video of you teaching people with adjustable control arms(stock axels) how to adjust their caster angle! You have a very old video explaining caster/pinion angle and then said you wanted to get it dialed in better. Just an idea! Love the content
Welding cast steel is very much like welding mild steel or low/medium/high carbon steel. Welding Cast Iron is NOT. Cast Iron comes in 3 varieties: black, grey and white. Grey is the more commonly found material. Welding cast Iron is never fun or easy, and even if you weld it correctly, it may still crack out on you. Me personally I hate welding cast iron. As a professional pipe and tube welder, I don't weld grandma's cast iron frying pan handles back on. Even if you get them back on there, they may crack right off the first time you cook with them. Welding cast iron manifolds and casings can be easier, but beware of thin spots, cracks, pre-heat requirements, and cleanliness. Many times you can get to the crack, but you can't really get it clean and grease, carbon soot or oil deep in the crack flows out during welding causing porosity and other issues. I don't mess with cast iron unless I have no other option. The weld will always be so much denser and stringer and LESS DUCTILE than the material you are repairing, that is why it tends to crack when welding, or cooling, or from normal use, that I would rather just buy a new one. Just my opinion. I can weld it, and do it well. I just don't like it at all, lols. Your results may vary, but generally stick with welding rods designed for welding cast iron, or other high nickle content rods, pre-heat it and wrap with fiberglass after to slow the cooling rate, and stick to welding on thicker castings. Thin cast will probably just "melt away" as you try to weld it. Good Luck.
Adding a truss doesn’t beef up the internals but it can help keep the diff housing from flexing which can mess with the way the ring and pinion teeth mesh which lowers their strength.
Great video. Question on the side, I know you and jeepin adventurer are friends, ain't seen any videos from him in a while. Is he in hiding or taking a break?
Hmm guess it's time to get my welder and start some projects like this. Only problem is at thw moment all I can do is a 110 welder. Been looking at the Eastwood one that you can use gas on. Didn't realize truss was so cheap.
200 to 300 to get it welded. 4Wheel parts here in CA want 400 (Sacramento quoted with me suppling kit) said “hmm that’s about two hours a side””.to 600 (San Jose quoted with them suppling kit) to do a Terflex 1.5 puck lift. Sacramento .. hell its leds than an hour per side on a garage floor with hand tools, fricking rips off!
Got 35s on recently, ordered an Artec truss and EVO c gussets to help reinforce the d30 some and regearing to 4.88 My logic is with my wheeling being as extreme as Rausch is mostly, there is 0 sense in me seeking out a d44 or d60 when I may very well never ever need it. Reinforced d30 should easily even handle 37s if i want to upgrade next time I need tires.
Great video! You make it look easy. Thank you! Two questions: 1.) You didn't mention why you pulled the axle shafts. Was that necessary to weld the C gussets or precautionary for heat transfer? I try to minimize the number of times I'm taking them in and out due to the inner seals... 2.) If you are willing to give up the FAD and remove the coupling gear ring from the fork (whatever it's called), and use say a one piece RCV, is the JT/JL sleevable then?
my wife's high dollar mixer has a nerf or palm sized whisk w/a key like machine connection pnt. If her whisk for mixer had a tie rod ball joint & the top of the wire whisk for mixer had bike type spoke adjustment & a flex spring w/no damn flex or spring hardly normal whisk back to frame I thing u hve a better mouse trap. Super light wt yet I hve never seen even machine whisk or 100 yr old kind break. Not 2" super car track prt but I think it could work cheap & ultra light, & can fine tune & damn near mount/connect it any where.
❤ Awesome video! Just a noob question, why don't you weld a truss on the bottom of the axle also? Wouldn't that strengthen it even more or I'm just stupid?
I've a 14 JKUR that I'm upgrading. It's daily driver, weekend warrior/overlander. I plan on running 37s but getting to that point means setting priorities. I wonder about my axles and where I should prioritize an upgrade like this. I had a quote a couple weeks ago in the 1200 range which listening to your video seems way high.
I actually have my front axle truss on the way to the house now. Been wondering if I’d have to pull the shafts and gears/locker out to get it welded. Guess not? No C gussets as I have a UD44 with beefed up C’s already. Just a truss.
With the welding it won’t get too hot to damage any internal components like the shafts and the locker and my wire connection for my locker? I’m assuming as long as you spread out the welds to disperse heat properly you’ll be fine?
Not really. The prorock is going to be around 5k. Plus you would still have to regear the rear and add a locker. If I was going to build a rock crawler with one ton axles then I would get a sport
14jk sport built better than rubi for less . On one hand they're comparing the cheap upgrade and Band-Aid on an axle to a rock jock or Pro Rock 44 that is a lot stronger all the way around. Add in the extra price of the Rubicon compared to what it's going to cost you to do the work to the sport. Plus doing all that Band-Aid stuff to the Rubicon.
IG street_legal_go_kart ok... lol. A rockjock or prorock is still a 44 at the end of the day. I wouldn’t call a truss and gussets a band aid... go say that to the rockbouncers running trusses on their 14bolts.
Question... there’s a video where a guy at an axle shop states that trussing the rear doesn’t work because damage is typically bending/bowing front to back, not top to bottom. Thoughts? Also, did you say the JT has a different rear axle than the JL?
Rear axles can get bent rearward, however a truss would still add some rigidity to help prevent that. And yes the JT axle has some differences than the JL, but the internals are the same.
Great video tons of killer info as always. When doing a truss on like my jk dana 44 that already has Yukon gears and master overhaul kit in it will welding on the truss damage any seals or anything internally I will have to worry about? I already did the c gussets before the ball joints were done so just need a truss. Appreciate the info and great videos.
@@JKGearandGadgets you're my hero Ben haha thanks for the info. Its premo stuff as always. Look forward to catching you next time you're around Arizona. Been scouting some tough ones for you here locally.
Ben, I'm curious. I understand in theory adding the trusses will add strength to the axle but is there any documentation that this small truss actually counters any significant force applied to the axle? The force needed to break the axle seems like it would be plenty to bend the trusses. Just curious. Also, I have Nitto Grapplers 35's and may go up to 37's but unlikely in the near future and do minimal off roading compared to the type of stuff you do. However, I will be adding a 175 pound canopy to the bed and periodically towing a 3,000 pound camper. Do you think I would benefit upgrading the gears from Rubicon 4:10 on my 2020 Gladiator? This is also my daily driver most of the time. Thanks.
Im sure there is some type of documentation but im not aware of any. Axle trusses have been around for a long time in the offroad world and there is no denying that they work. Lots of bent 44s and even dana 60s from running 37s and 40s. You will rarely see an axle bend with a truss, unless its some crazy situation where someone jumped the jeep unreasonably. And yes, gears will be a great improvement, not only for daily driving, but for towing as well
My local shop say he recommends sleeves over truss. Do you lose articulation with a truss? I have a ‘07 JKU Rubicon and I am going 37 or 38’s next, but need to reinforce my axles first. Do you recommend to truss both axles or just the front?
I don't need trusses I got a JK with 32s LOLOL, I need new shocks what would you recommend to make it ride more like a Cadillac zero lift! Quarantine issues right.
Cool timing considering my comments on your last video. Do you think running the rock crawler 4 link in the rear and welding it on would enhance the strength of the JT rubicon axle set I purchased? I really like your Clayton lift but adding some extra strength behind the diesel might be smart?
The 4 link itself won’t increase any strength, but welding that truss bracket on will. Personally I am not a fan of that 4 link design, it works, but not an ideal triangulated 4 link.
JK Gear and Gadgets you know better than I do despite my username. I appreciate the help brother. Hoping things are more normal this fall if so I’d so to come out there for a ride
Question concerning gear ratio. Its been said going with a higher ratio like 4.10 to 5.13 or whatever causes you to get worse gas mileage. But also putting bigger tires on and keeping 4.10 will also cause mpg to go down. So...if you put bigger tires and go with a higher gear ratio does it negate the loss in mpg going either way, or do you still loose mpg with bigger tires even though you go to a higher gear ratio? or does putting bigger tires and higher ration just negate each other and the mpg stays same.
So, there is a fine line. For example. Stock I was getting around 15-16, Threw on 37s without regearing and went down to around 13. Installed 5.13 gears with the 37s and now have the lost power back, but now only getting around 14-15. If I went with 4.88s it would bump my mpg to around 15-16 probably, however it wouldn’t be as peppy as the 5.13 gears. I plan to talk about all of this in an upcoming video, there is a lot to talk about, and each vehicle differs greatly.
Ben I have a question for you about the JK. Do you still like the DV8 hydraulic bump stops? I was thinking about getting some. Any info is much appreciated! Great videos and awesome rigs. Thanks
I swapped them out a while back when I did the front and rear install video, went with locked Offroad bumpstops on both. However the DV8 are still good bumpstops
If you're going to run 37's why not just do an axle swap to something better versus a bandaid on the stock junk? Rockjock 44 and the prorock would be a lot stronger. Wouldn't have the weak Center section. And a larger ring and pinion.
Thank you Ben! I also sent you a message on Facebook with a question I thought you might be able to help me with after me not being able to come up with much of anything from my research. If you get a chance to reply to that, that would be awesome, thank you for all you do!
With 37s your most likely ok. The front axle sees more stress and is more prone to bending. It wouldnt hurt to add a truss on the rear, but i wouldnt say you have to do it right away
Ben, I have a 2018 JLU Sport that I believe my ultimate goal will be 37s. It’ll continue to be a DD, with weekend offroad trips. Do you think it would be in my best interest to go ahead and do the trusses and c’s on the D30 or look for a Rubi D44 to swap in first after adding trusses and c’s? Basically, would I be wasting my time doing the work on the D30? And yeah... I should have bought a Rubi! You know what they say about hindsight!!
I would eventually recommend swamping to a dana 44. However, if thats going to be a few years down the road, then a truss and gusset kit would be a good idea until then!
The R&D REALLY shows with the 7 Slot Customs Truss and C Gussets. Super close fit and very true to the housing out of the box. Stellar video man!
Am I the only one seeing those static stripes in the video?
I see them to.
@@jeremy8715 me too, must be faulty video/editing
I just replace the battery on my iPhone and I was wondering if I messed up by screen taking it off until I looked at the comments haha
I saw them too
Nope they are really there, maybe the gopro caught to muss in welding. Ben you might want to use a "ND filter" or a UV filter for the welding stuff, that may help.
You making me want a JT more and more... thank you for that.
Really informative dude, thanks
Loving the JT more and more with each upgrade.
Nice job Ben.It is always good to add some beef......
Im welding on my Barnes truss on my tj next week once I get some time. This video was perfect 👌 good job as always !
Love the truss video, most likely a down the road upgrade for me personally. What really caught my eye was the lights mounted in the skid. My bumper and skid are being shipped now, would love to make an fog light set up similar to yours. Stay safe!
That’s why I want to do a rock crawling when I buy my own jeep
That is a clean looking truss and since you are there why not get the C-gussets and control arm skids done at the same time! Good info and description on pre and post heating the cast differential housing! Nice job Ben!
Come On Ben!!! " Safety Glasses" !!!!!!!
Love your videos. Makes me want to get working on my JT as well.
Ben, your axle upgrades are so great that it's causing video errors.
C’mon man, gotta use safety glasses when grinding. Be smart.
BTW, love the vids & builds!
Appreciate sharing all your info and building progress. I got a 2010 JKU that I been buying stuff for I have Barns C gussets and about to order some more stuff. By the time all this stuff goes away I have 20 boxes of parts at the house lol.
Pretty solid info about the JT rear axel. Kudo’s on that!
When I did mine. I ended up burning out the locker sensor cause I let it in. That was about 6 hour job I had to do after putting everything back together.
The big question is .....do I need this mod to take my 60 lb kid to school every morning?....yesssss !!!!!😂
Just watched tuss axle video never seen b4 & u hve already done 1 again.
Thanks Ben for the wonderful information with the How & Why.
Such great explanations with the projects you do. Great video.
Thank you Jim!
Keep up the great work Ben. I’ll be welding on an IRO Ford 8.8 truss on the ZJ truck. I finally have some videos on my channel of the ZJ truck conversion.
Hey Ben, what about a video of you teaching people with adjustable control arms(stock axels) how to adjust their caster angle! You have a very old video explaining caster/pinion angle and then said you wanted to get it dialed in better. Just an idea! Love the content
I found that welding cast was much easier than people let on. I did a shave kit on my Sterling.
Welding cast steel is very much like welding mild steel or low/medium/high carbon steel.
Welding Cast Iron is NOT.
Cast Iron comes in 3 varieties: black, grey and white. Grey is the more commonly found material. Welding cast Iron is never fun or easy, and even if you weld it correctly, it may still crack out on you. Me personally I hate welding cast iron. As a professional pipe and tube welder, I don't weld grandma's cast iron frying pan handles back on. Even if you get them back on there, they may crack right off the first time you cook with them. Welding cast iron manifolds and casings can be easier, but beware of thin spots, cracks, pre-heat requirements, and cleanliness. Many times you can get to the crack, but you can't really get it clean and grease, carbon soot or oil deep in the crack flows out during welding causing porosity and other issues. I don't mess with cast iron unless I have no other option. The weld will always be so much denser and stringer and LESS DUCTILE than the material you are repairing, that is why it tends to crack when welding, or cooling, or from normal use, that I would rather just buy a new one.
Just my opinion. I can weld it, and do it well. I just don't like it at all, lols. Your results may vary, but generally stick with welding rods designed for welding cast iron, or other high nickle content rods, pre-heat it and wrap with fiberglass after to slow the cooling rate, and stick to welding on thicker castings. Thin cast will probably just "melt away" as you try to weld it. Good Luck.
Yukon gears are made of peanut brittle stock with Dana spicer.
Must have filmed in the morning...where was the beer? Great series - enjoy the channel very much!
Yep! This was the next morning install 😂. Beers in the next video lol
Adding a truss doesn’t beef up the internals but it can help keep the diff housing from flexing which can mess with the way the ring and pinion teeth mesh which lowers their strength.
Awesome video, can’t wait for the next one.
Great video. Question on the side, I know you and jeepin adventurer are friends, ain't seen any videos from him in a while. Is he in hiding or taking a break?
Hmm guess it's time to get my welder and start some projects like this. Only problem is at thw moment all I can do is a 110 welder. Been looking at the Eastwood one that you can use gas on. Didn't realize truss was so cheap.
Its worth it for sure! There are so many projects you will be able to do. Even a 110V welder will get the job done, just get some good practice!
200 to 300 to get it welded. 4Wheel parts here in CA want 400 (Sacramento quoted with me suppling kit) said “hmm that’s about two hours a side””.to 600 (San Jose quoted with them suppling kit) to do a Terflex 1.5 puck lift. Sacramento .. hell its leds than an hour per side on a garage floor with hand tools, fricking rips off!
Got 35s on recently, ordered an Artec truss and EVO c gussets to help reinforce the d30 some and regearing to 4.88
My logic is with my wheeling being as extreme as Rausch is mostly, there is 0 sense in me seeking out a d44 or d60 when I may very well never ever need it. Reinforced d30 should easily even handle 37s if i want to upgrade next time I need tires.
Nice JOB. I so wish you were my neighbor!
How will the truss affect dealing with any issues with the axle disconnect? If that system has to be repaired, does the truss affect any of that?
Love this build 😍
I’m about to weld an artec truss on the jkur and I’m really hoping I don’t burn up the teraflex ball joints welding the c’s.
Just weld small sections and let them cool!
nice work Ben!!!
Great video! You make it look easy. Thank you! Two questions:
1.) You didn't mention why you pulled the axle shafts. Was that necessary to weld the C gussets or precautionary for heat transfer? I try to minimize the number of times I'm taking them in and out due to the inner seals...
2.) If you are willing to give up the FAD and remove the coupling gear ring from the fork (whatever it's called), and use say a one piece RCV, is the JT/JL sleevable then?
No need to pull the shafts. I only had them out due to previous regear video and to prep for the next video haha
Even with the one piece shaft, the axle wouldn’t be sleevable
Coming along nice man
Arent the axle C's casted? Guess preheating isnt an option there with balljoints present.
my wife's high dollar mixer has a nerf or palm sized whisk w/a key like machine connection pnt. If her whisk for mixer had a tie rod ball joint & the top of the wire whisk for mixer had bike type spoke adjustment & a flex spring w/no damn flex or spring hardly normal whisk back to frame I thing u hve a better mouse trap. Super light wt yet I hve never seen even machine whisk or 100 yr old kind break. Not 2" super car track prt but I think it could work cheap & ultra light, & can fine tune & damn near mount/connect it any where.
What about “old school” bolt on truss?
❤ Awesome video! Just a noob question, why don't you weld a truss on the bottom of the axle also? Wouldn't that strengthen it even more or I'm just stupid?
Welding on the bottom reduces clearance, and it would get ripped off with rocks.
Lol ever time I watch your videos I want to spend more money
I just attempted to purchase the 7 slot customs truss but they do not ship to Canada. Very informative video as usual.
Give them a call!
I've a 14 JKUR that I'm upgrading. It's daily driver, weekend warrior/overlander. I plan on running 37s but getting to that point means setting priorities. I wonder about my axles and where I should prioritize an upgrade like this. I had a quote a couple weeks ago in the 1200 range which listening to your video seems way high.
I actually have my front axle truss on the way to the house now. Been wondering if I’d have to pull the shafts and gears/locker out to get it welded. Guess not? No C gussets as I have a UD44 with beefed up C’s already. Just a truss.
No need to pull them out! Mine was just still disassembled from the gear swap
With the welding it won’t get too hot to damage any internal components like the shafts and the locker and my wire connection for my locker? I’m assuming as long as you spread out the welds to disperse heat properly you’ll be fine?
Where is front bumper from?
Awesome. Keep the vids coming.
With all you’ve done,Would it better too buy a sport or Sahara and put pro rock in ???
Not really. The prorock is going to be around 5k. Plus you would still have to regear the rear and add a locker. If I was going to build a rock crawler with one ton axles then I would get a sport
But that is a great option for those that have a sport or sahara
100 x better sport and rock jock 44 or pro rock .
14jk sport built better than rubi for less . On one hand they're comparing the cheap upgrade and Band-Aid on an axle to a rock jock or Pro Rock 44 that is a lot stronger all the way around. Add in the extra price of the Rubicon compared to what it's going to cost you to do the work to the sport. Plus doing all that Band-Aid stuff to the Rubicon.
IG street_legal_go_kart ok... lol. A rockjock or prorock is still a 44 at the end of the day.
I wouldn’t call a truss and gussets a band aid... go say that to the rockbouncers running trusses on their 14bolts.
Hey Ben did you do a vid on the front bumper install? Loving that bumper ima look into it
Yep!!
Isn’t there a piece that goes under the coil bracket ? (Driver side ) for the gusset
Not on the 7SC kit. I think artec uses that, but it seems a little pointless in my opinion
There are some shop that will just not weld on the cast parts. Is it still even worth doing if they are not going to weld on the cast parts?
Still better than nothing
Did you removed the FAD/CAD???
Question... there’s a video where a guy at an axle shop states that trussing the rear doesn’t work because damage is typically bending/bowing front to back, not top to bottom. Thoughts? Also, did you say the JT has a different rear axle than the JL?
Rear axles can get bent rearward, however a truss would still add some rigidity to help prevent that.
And yes the JT axle has some differences than the JL, but the internals are the same.
@@JKGearandGadgets hitting me with knowledge. Thanks dude.
What brand of paint you use to paint the axle?
what about the rear of jk does it need a truss for 37's?
I would suggest axle shafts before a truss. Depends on your style of wheeling, if your hard on it then a truss will keep the axle housing happy
Grinding with no glasses scares me. Very good vid otherwise.
Now can i weld this truss on with the gears and axle seals still installed on a jku?
Yes.
How was heating the center section up with the locker connectors and such still plugged in?? And did you preheat the C’s ? Thanks brother!
Unplug the locker connection. And no need to preheat the C
JK Gear and Gadgets 👍🏼
Has me curious what else you're doing
Great video tons of killer info as always. When doing a truss on like my jk dana 44 that already has Yukon gears and master overhaul kit in it will welding on the truss damage any seals or anything internally I will have to worry about? I already did the c gussets before the ball joints were done so just need a truss. Appreciate the info and great videos.
Nope! Just don’t weld it too long and too hot around the seal areas. Just take the time and let the welds cool and do it in small sections
@@JKGearandGadgets you're my hero Ben haha thanks for the info. Its premo stuff as always. Look forward to catching you next time you're around Arizona. Been scouting some tough ones for you here locally.
Ben, I'm curious. I understand in theory adding the trusses will add strength to the axle but is there any documentation that this small truss actually counters any significant force applied to the axle? The force needed to break the axle seems like it would be plenty to bend the trusses. Just curious. Also, I have Nitto Grapplers 35's and may go up to 37's but unlikely in the near future and do minimal off roading compared to the type of stuff you do. However, I will be adding a 175 pound canopy to the bed and periodically towing a 3,000 pound camper. Do you think I would benefit upgrading the gears from Rubicon 4:10 on my 2020 Gladiator? This is also my daily driver most of the time. Thanks.
Im sure there is some type of documentation but im not aware of any. Axle trusses have been around for a long time in the offroad world and there is no denying that they work. Lots of bent 44s and even dana 60s from running 37s and 40s. You will rarely see an axle bend with a truss, unless its some crazy situation where someone jumped the jeep unreasonably.
And yes, gears will be a great improvement, not only for daily driving, but for towing as well
I truss your opinion! ;-)
Could I weld this axle on some jack lifts? I know I'd be uncomfortable, but I don't have access to a lift, I do however have access to a welder.
really don't want to remove the whole axle, so thats what I mean put the jeep on some jack stands and weld?
I'm getting quoted 1200 all over town just to weld this thing lol
Yeah!
@@JKGearandGadgets geeat to know man, im going to do some practice runs pulling parts off and putting them on.
Flux core 220 okay with .35 wire?
My local shop say he recommends sleeves over truss. Do you lose articulation with a truss? I have a ‘07 JKU Rubicon and I am going 37 or 38’s next, but need to reinforce my axles first. Do you recommend to truss both axles or just the front?
No loss on articulation with most modern trusses. On the JK I would recommend both front and rear
I don't need trusses I got a JK with 32s LOLOL, I need new shocks what would you recommend to make it ride more like a Cadillac zero lift! Quarantine issues right.
MC rockersport shocks
Sweetness!
Does anybody make trusses for the rear on the JL?
Cool timing considering my comments on your last video. Do you think running the rock crawler 4 link in the rear and welding it on would enhance the strength of the JT rubicon axle set I purchased? I really like your Clayton lift but adding some extra strength behind the diesel might be smart?
The 4 link itself won’t increase any strength, but welding that truss bracket on will.
Personally I am not a fan of that 4 link design, it works, but not an ideal triangulated 4 link.
JK Gear and Gadgets you know better than I do despite my username. I appreciate the help brother. Hoping things are more normal this fall if so I’d so to come out there for a ride
I'd give ya $200 to hook me up haha.
Think it'd be smart to get a truss if I'm running 35s?
I would recommend it, even 35s can take a toll on the axle. i would recommend the c gussets first though.
@@JKGearandGadgets awesome, good looking out. Will definitely be getting some installed soon. Gotta get my lift installed as well.
Safety first...
Question concerning gear ratio. Its been said going with a higher ratio like 4.10 to 5.13 or whatever causes you to get worse gas mileage. But also putting bigger tires on and keeping 4.10 will also cause mpg to go down. So...if you put bigger tires and go with a higher gear ratio does it negate the loss in mpg going either way, or do you still loose mpg with bigger tires even though you go to a higher gear ratio? or does putting bigger tires and higher ration just negate each other and the mpg stays same.
So, there is a fine line.
For example.
Stock I was getting around 15-16,
Threw on 37s without regearing and went down to around 13.
Installed 5.13 gears with the 37s and now have the lost power back, but now only getting around 14-15.
If I went with 4.88s it would bump my mpg to around 15-16 probably, however it wouldn’t be as peppy as the 5.13 gears.
I plan to talk about all of this in an upcoming video, there is a lot to talk about, and each vehicle differs greatly.
JK Gear and Gadgets yeah, can get confusing
Nice! 👍
Ben I have a question for you about the JK. Do you still like the DV8 hydraulic bump stops? I was thinking about getting some. Any info is much appreciated! Great videos and awesome rigs. Thanks
I swapped them out a while back when I did the front and rear install video, went with locked Offroad bumpstops on both. However the DV8 are still good bumpstops
Ok sorry I guess I missed that part. I’ll have to go back and do some reviews. Thanks
damnit... truss are sold out lol thanks man!!
Give them a call! I’m sure they can get you on the list to get it first when it comes back in stock
If you're going to run 37's why not just do an axle swap to something better versus a bandaid on the stock junk? Rockjock 44 and the prorock would be a lot stronger. Wouldn't have the weak Center section. And a larger ring and pinion.
Because this will handle 37s fine.
If I was to do an axle swap I wouldn’t waste money on a 44 again
No worries about a weak center section anymore. This axle setup is very nice now
@@JKGearandGadgets depends on the 44 they are not all equal. And what your plans are.
IG street_legal_go_kart I am talking about the setup that I have, the one that we are building in this video.
Would you recommend doing trusses and C gussets even without upgraded axle shafts and such?
Yes
I would do a truss and gussets first.
If you bend your axle, your screwed. If you break a shaft, it’s easily replaceable
Thank you Ben! I also sent you a message on Facebook with a question I thought you might be able to help me with after me not being able to come up with much of anything from my research. If you get a chance to reply to that, that would be awesome, thank you for all you do!
bryce turner sorry man, I don’t get a chance to read all of my FB messages. I try my best to respond to all the CZcams comments though.
i have a m200 rear axle. i have all the upgrades in the housing. should i do a truss kit? would 37s with probably moderate wheeling be okay ?
With 37s your most likely ok. The front axle sees more stress and is more prone to bending. It wouldnt hurt to add a truss on the rear, but i wouldnt say you have to do it right away
@@JKGearandGadgets awesome! i have a pr44 for the front, just waiting to have it installed
Ben what happened to the core4x4 control arms?
Where ya been? Haha. Went with a full lift kit from Clayton
JK Gear and Gadgets 😂😂 guess I miss it. Time to go back and find it.
CAN I INSTALL A TRUSS AND GUSSETS WITH FACTORY TIRES AND NO LIFT??
Yep! However if you plan on staying with factory tires then there isnt really a need
@@JKGearandGadgets YOU THA MAN BEN!
Niiiiiiiice👍👍👍 ty
What lift is that 3?
It is 3.5”
What about those poor axle seals with all that heat?
No issues at all. Your not applying to much heat in that area. Take it easy around the area
thought you guys didn't like truss's ?
Who said that? Lol
@@JKGearandGadgets I'm glade you guys have a sense of humor,I try to have one,LOL.
Hey, couldn't get the wife to weld it for you? Haha.. Woopsies! Just kidding Ben.. Big fan of the channel!
Make it bullet proof.
Ben, I have a 2018 JLU Sport that I believe my ultimate goal will be 37s. It’ll continue to be a DD, with weekend offroad trips. Do you think it would be in my best interest to go ahead and do the trusses and c’s on the D30 or look for a Rubi D44 to swap in first after adding trusses and c’s? Basically, would I be wasting my time doing the work on the D30?
And yeah... I should have bought a Rubi! You know what they say about hindsight!!
I would eventually recommend swamping to a dana 44. However, if thats going to be a few years down the road, then a truss and gusset kit would be a good idea until then!
Do you worry bout burning up your axle seals
Nope
Jk Truss is sold out rip
Give them a call and talk to Connor, maybe he can give you first dibs when they get back in stock.
The other 2 videos were much better.