LT1 411 LS1 pcm swap part 1: Rear distributor conversion
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Im converting my 1993 trans am engine to a 96-97 style and modified it for a rear vortec distributor. I can then run a 411 pcm from a 2001ish vortec 350 express van. The newer ecm will be easy to tune with HP Tuners and NO MORE OPTISPARK!
One thing i forgot to mention. I had an extra motor i bolted the intake on for test fitting and also had it bolted down when it was welded. The heat can warp the intake if it is not. you could probably also bolt it onto the engine under the hood backwards to weld it if you dont have a spare engine.
Glad to see someone show the lt1 some love
Andrew Hunt right!
Your a pretty sharp dude, thanks for sharing, we worked on our first LT 1, not running over a year, you helped us get it diagnosed. I appreciate your videos and efforts 😃😀
I appreciate the comment man, glad I could help.
I had did this on my f body before going ls1 swap, but would install the intake and distributer at the same time, took some skilk not to smear the silicone bead in front and back of valley cover, though i would do this during a cam swap so ithere was no radiadors or accesories and i would jump in the engine compartment, im a small guy though. Cool seing people showing love to lt1
This is impressive. Took balls to undertake this. Nice work and subbed
Hey man I put together a kit to convert sbc’s to ford’s EDIS 8 ( distributorless ignition ) it comes with a reluctor that bolts to the back of the balancer, the EDIS module, the coil towers, and spacers to align everything. You still need a controller (megajolt lt or MicroSquirt) to control the system but it’s a cool near plug setup for a tenth of what EFI Connection charges.
Nice sounds cool.
There’s nothing dreaded about the opti spark. My car is a 93 and still had the original until two weeks ago. I only replaced it because I was swapping out other things, it still worked great!
I was able to put the cam sync distributor in mine at the same time as the intake. You have the take of the cap and rotor but dont need to drop the k member.
The music and edits where great
Really cool project but hard to not think a LS swap would be much easier.
Nice job !!!!!
How much did it cost to get that intake done like that
With the 411 swap, how did you add the wideband in? 94 camaro with 411 swap
I still don't understand how you knew where to drill the hole for the distributor? Also, did I see that the rear distributor isn't necessary? If so then what fires the plugs? Did you go to a coil on plug system?
im also wondering this
How the hell did you learn all that ? You should be an engineer at GM
Went to school for auto mechanics years ago. Worked at the dealer for awhile. Mostly I enjoy it so I read up on it. If I was an engineer at the time I would have put it in the back where it belongs! Lol.
How do i get this to work on a 96 lt1 buick. Do i need a crank senor. How do i install it
How much would u charge to make that?
Did you have change the cam or stock cam ?
Does anyone makes a ecu adapter jumper for Lt1 to LS?
Don’t you need some type of gear on the camshaft to run the distributor or does the LT1 has that as standard?
Lt1 has a little shaft in there like the bottom of a distributor. It's required to run the oil pump. Cam has same gear as any SBC. You can remove the small shaft and use an actual distributor like any older small block.
If you got rid of the sensor issue wouldn't the opti spark be better since now you can faze the distributor
is 93-94 the same or 95 to 96 the same
How does the oil pump run and the just happen to have a distributor gear on that cam?🤷🏽
Yes the distributor gear is necessary to turn the oil pump. Stock it has a short dummy shaft that looks like the bottom of a distributor. Which can be swapped out for an actual distributor.
Ok if your active will you let me know..... In a future video from this you say you unplug your rear distributor??? And mine is a 95 so wont i need diff knock sensors its different from 95 to 91
Does the 94 come with the drive gear for the distributor on the cam already or do you have to do a cam swap as well?
Mustang Guru it's all there. On all lt1's. They use a small dummy shaft under the intake manifold that looks like the bottom of a distributor. It's necessary to run the oil pump.
HorsepowerTube thanks. 👍🏻
That's awesome!!
Thanks!
Would this work for 1994
Do you think a distributorless style ignition system is possible now that you have done this conversion some time ago ?
What about a 95
Hey guys! I also have a '93 Z/28! Currently, my secondary fan isn't coming on and the car is heating up. Last week, I played with relay/computer and got the fans to work.I just replaced head gasket, heads, water pump, radiator and water pump about a month ago and car was running well until this.
Do I need ECU/PCM?
I did a ltcc kit runs way better. Awesome to see your f body!
Do you sell these type of modified intakes for a 87-92 sbc?
I don't mean to correct you but I feel knowing this is educational. The term "Batch fire" means all injectors fire at the same time. If they were to fire bank to bank it would miss fuel at some point because of the firing order. The injectors fire x amount of times per crank rotation (usually around 2-4 times) adding just enough fuel to have the right mixture for the cylinder to fire. There is also "semi-sequential" injection where half of the injectors fire then the other half. On a small block chevy it would be 1,8,4,3 then 6,5,7,2 on a system with 2 outputs. Or if there were 4 outputs it could fire 2 injectors at the same time such as 1,8 then 4,3 then 6,5 then 7,2. With semi sequential the injectors would shoot enough fuel to where they fire half as many times as it would in "batch fire". Finally "sequential injection" is where the injectors fire one at a time. I just learned all this after building my first microsquirt efi system. I'm now converting a small block chevy to run a full LS system with coil per cylinder and sequential injection. Keep up the awesome work.
kendrick galacgac while that might be true for an aftermarket microsquirt, it is not true on factory gm. It does fire bank to bank. All even fire together and all odd fire together. 92-93 LT1 are commonly called batch fired altho they are technically bank fired. Its wired the same as the old batch fired tpi's, thus I got a new harness for SFI. Tpi's have 1 injector driver and fire both banks at once. LT1 have 2 and fire banks separately, hence the extra o2 sensor not found on tpi.
I'm in the process of doing something similar with my 95. I bought it with a thrown rod, and I have a crate gen 1 385 sitting in my barn already. Trying to figure whether adding a opti sensor to my hei for injectors or go your route with a vortec dis and timing cover. What was involved wiring? I really appreciate any info you can give me
Trevor Noyes you could do that or run a tuned port ecm. Tuning is a little more difficult you have to burn and replace chips every time you change the tune. But it runs off a regular distributor. I actually ran that setup on the 93 using a 91 Vette computer. Used a low profile msd distributor. It's hard to burn chips every time once you get used to something easy like hp tuners.
Wiring isn't too hard. Im using a 01 express van diagram to compare to the 94 harness I'm using. U'll find most of the wires are even the same colors. I'm gonna film the whole thing but it's been cold out and haven't gotten that far yet. Vans have different ac wiring and a mechanical fan. So for fan and ac I'm using pins for a ls1 Camaro. Then you just have to change to that in the tune. I'll film it all soon.
Thanks! I am looking at using a tuned port ecm with a vortec distributor, firing the lt1 injectors in batch mode... I think that's my easiest and cheapest option until it gets a lq9 swap in a few years with my escalade engine. Trying to figure out the wiring now
I don't mind burning chips if I can do it once. It's a 385 stroker with ported and milled 58cc 416 heads. Flat tops all forged lower, gear drive and a mutha thumpr. 11.5:1 cr
Somebody had to do it.😏
Hey dude... I have lt1 camaro 1997 and i want to swap to ls1.. I have the engine and auto gear... So what the parts i should take it to swap?
I'll have to watch it again maybe I missed this but when welding the ring shim on the intake, how do you know how tall of a shim to use? The distributor only sets down in the engine so far , I figure that shim dictates how the gears mesh on the cam/distributor ya know?
Well I did have a spare motor. Basically when the distributor was placed in the hole it would stick out and at a 15 degree angle. Also I had the motor on a little cart and when I had it welded I took the whole thing and had it all bolted down. Apparently they can warp pretty easily with heat. I have a bunch of pictures that would illustrate what I'm saying better but can't post them here. Hop over to Facebook I will put them up.
Could you still use the opti spark?
I’m a little confused. Doesn’t the distributor need to spin?
What are you confused about? Yes the cam spins the distributor.
HorsepowerTube But how? Your new distributor has a gear at the end that has to mate with a gear in the cam. Is that not a stock cam? The stock LT1 cam doesn’t have gears to run a top mount distributor, right?
This is not sequential spark right?
Kind of has to be. The rotor can't be at 2 locations at once.
@11:34 Amen!!!
I looking to do the same with my firebird formula it's a 1995 with the lt1 and I was trying to do the same thing but I have a 2000 Chevy truck will that work ?
2000 truck will be the black box. You could make it run on it but not many places can tune them. 0411 is much better.
@@HorsepowerTube so it has to be a LS pcm ? Or just newer then 2000 truck ?
Did you cut that hole for the distributor
Yeah kind of have to.
@@HorsepowerTube just wondering. Just started this same project on my 97 formula.
HorsepowerTube
I messaged you on Facebook about how much you would charge to modify a LT1 intake the way you have for the distributor I only would need you to do the hole modification. Please get back with me thank you.
#1 I don't have any free time so I can't do any side jobs.
#2 I don't recommend the rear distributor. The car runs fine on the 0411 without it. I thought it was required so I went through the trouble of modifying it. You can just use the stock optispark and it runs without a crank sensor.
I am running Holley Terminator X universal kit and was gonna run the dual sync distributor to simplify the set up I don’t wanna run the coil over plug set up and 24x relucter kit
3 new optis and everyone broke out at higher RPMs i hate them no good 75% failure rate
Anyway I can get ahold of you. Trying to do the same thing and have a ton a questions. Willing to pay for time. Not sure how to direct message vis CZcams. If so much appreciated. Thanks in advance
You can send messages through Facebook.
Damn Man, with all that knowledge you should have thousands of dollars laying around.
My question is I want to add a MSD ignition module but I am afraid it will hurt my optispark and we both know what a bitch it is to replace them. Will it hurt the optispark ? ps '95 z28
I don't think it would have much effect on the optical sensor. It'll fail stock or aftermarket.
@@HorsepowerTube HPT thanks for the reply, but I didn't explain my question well, I was wondering adding a MSD ignition would hurt my optispark distributor, I didn't even consider the sensor. Which now I should.
@@anomie1040 I would upgrade to an msd cap and rotor first. Stock caps sometimes jump cylinders internally. The extra fire power of the msd would probably make this more likely to happen when using the stock cap. If you're turning stock rpm's a stock opti should be fine with an upgraded cap.
@@HorsepowerTube HTP Thank you, we appreciate you.
Hmmmmmm Don't try this at home folks.
I wouldn't do it again lol. It runs just as good without it. I was under the impression that the cam sensor wasn't optional when I put it in.
The Opti Spark is a piece of shit