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How to choose the best Traditional Bow Length
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2021
- I cover the advantages and disadvantages of bow length across common Traditional Archery Bow Designs. I walk you through how to interpret Draw Force Curves and Change Per Inch Graphs to asses draw cycles. This should help you assess bow reviews I load onto this channel. I perform a few head to head comparisons and highlight stand out bows.
I cover the effect of bow length on draw cycles and performance across several designs. I also challenge a few long standing theories associated with bow length.
This is the best thing on CZcams for tradbows . No sacred cows , all facts . If this CZcams channel was a knife , it would be half vintage Puma , half Emerson Cqc … all killer , no filler
I love vintage Puma
Hey don’t insult idiots such as myself with your accurate and well thought out reviews of bow with well designed charts that actually express what you are explaining! I happen to be an idiot according to my daughters when I make them behave! 😂 ❤ 🏹🦌🏹🦌🏹🦌😎
That was quite interesting! I always thought that longer bows ( arround "64) cant deliver the same power and speed as the shorter bows.
But Bows are different... I am selling a "62 custom Hybrid Longbow, because i cant shoot it well at my "30 draw... so i just ordered a "64.
On the other hand, i also own a "60 Shrew Bow, which you can easily draw to 31 and more without any problem.
Thank you!
Great video, I really enjoy how you break down the data and show the facts without bias toward brands or trends.
Thanks Cody.
I get smarter every time I hear you talk about archery!
Glad your starting to add videos..
At around 01:55 you hit the nail for a lot of issues. Improper draw force curve will induce a target panic shot almost always. Btw love the graphs, topic, channel and the great list of gear!!
Great video and info. Thanks for putting this kind of information out Cody. I gather it’s not warmly received by some, but it’s a huge service to community if they realize it or not.
Very insightful video thank you!!
Great stuff! I am eager to see more episodes!
Outstanding video
Great video. Lot of really good information.
Wow a lot to consider, but very interesting to say the least, Thanks for your work and time to do this video
This was great information. Thanks for All the work.
That’s pretty good I’ll have to watch that a few times
Great info! thanks again for all your hard work! I really appreciate it!
Good stuff! I’ll be interested to see some selfbows included in the evaluations
I wish I could have seen this video before I bought a 56" 50lb takedown. My 58" 45lb grizzly is so much more smooth. Thought a smaller bow would be better in a treestand.
Thanks man. Really enjoying the channel.
Great info, thanks Cody!
Great stuff, Cody!
That’s pretty damn good I’ll have to watch it a few times
Love the video and it's really informative.
Very good information
I’m gonna enjoy your channel!!
Great video. I do have 30 inch draw. I had to sell my Martin Hunter 62 inch recurve bow 45# at 28 inches, because it was stacking like crazy for me. I was pulling 51 lb at my draw.
I understand that I should buy the longest bow that I can comfortably handle. I purchased 66 inch Wes Wallace recurve (the longest offered) with 2 sets of limbs #45 and #51 (at my draw) - much better.
I want to increase my traditional recurve collection, but I do not think that that it is easily achievable at a reasonable price. I am not crazy about longbow, so recurve it is.
I am not aware of any decent recurve above 62 inches being offered on the market. If it is a hunting custom bow, it usually tops at 64 inch length. If it is a cheap wooden recurve above 62 inches, it is almost always a bow of bottom level and/or of "questionable quality". The Samick Sage or Black Hunter are not bottom quality in my opinion, there are good and decent, but they are offered in 62 and 60 inch length respectively. I am going to get a lot of heat from everyone, but here it is: "There longer bows (specifically recurves) have to offered first, so people can buy them and enjoy shooting them". The potential archer can watch this video and decide on something longer than 62 inch.
Here are the options:
1. Super cheap junk.(new)
2. Vintage from ebay. (used, but not cheap anymore).
3. Custom - new or used, but expensive - usually 64 inches max.
4. Compromise on length and get something like Samick Sage or Southwest Spider XL 64, but nothing longer.
I draw 30" as well and i just ordered a custom "64 because i cant get a nice and comfortable shoot with my "62.
Great information, but what about us with shorter than 28" draw , currently shooting a asl 66" string follow I have 25.25 " on a good day, thanks
Yea, no one seems to say much about short draws. I'm 6'5" but due to a few serious elbow and shoulder injuries I only have a 26" draw. (I probably would have a 31+ draw if I never had injuries, but neither arm can be straightened out, so I have a very short draw!)
I've played a little with velocity vs bow length. From what I've seen the bow length difference has to be a little extreme. More like 64 to 58. I had a friend make me a 64", 60", and 56" reflex deflex bows.
Maybe i missed it, but how does Riser Length come into play when picking a Bow? Example, if i want a 60” Black Widow, how do i decide between a 14”. 16” or 18” Riser?? Ill watch the video again just in case i missed it. Keep these videos coming, they are Awesome!!!
Have you tested a Bear supermag
Love it Cody! Question on the test you did between the glass and carbon BW limbs. Did you use one arrow weight for each gpp regardless of drawlength (assuming poundage measured at 28”)? Or did you change arrow weight at each draw length so gpp was consistent?
No I had to achieve a grains per pound. It was a mess because both sets of limbs were slightly different in draw weight. Again this does not apply to big hooks and longbows
I have just discovered this channel. I shoot Longbow WA 3d. Some really interesting content here.
As English is not my first language (I'm from Europe), I have a question: what does getting into the limb mean? I really didn't understand this concept.
Thank You for the really interesting valuable data!
Some people believe that a limb needs to be drawn to or beyond a specific point before it reaches optimal. They are not incorrect but it is not a practical problem that outweighs the benefit of a longer bow.
@@tradlab1859
Thank You very much for your answer. I know this theory from before, but didn't know this term for it.
I agree with You that a longer bow is more important. At least that is my experience.
I needed a year to reach my best result with my old bow 68 inches, with my new one, 66 inches.
interesting graphics but i didn't follow all the reflexion : if you' want to buy a 66" longbow with a 30" draw like me (like a Blaackfoot), what would be more efficient (comfort, speed & precision) ?
to choose a 25# /28" so real power at 29# /30" or a more powerfull at 30# /28" which i would only draw at 28" ?
the longer draw is more interesting with lower power ?
Hey Cody ,
Thanks for all your information and content you put out there. Do you have the drawforce curve or difference from a bow that is absolutely entry level like a Samick Sage or Fleetwood Edge versus the other bows you have tested? Basically how much gain would someone get going from a Sage to a mid range or higher end bow. ? I shoot at 30.5 inch draw and as you said I have to really pay attention to this.
Yes I have tested the Sage and Old Mountain Mesa both were very good.
Man, I learned a lot here! I really hate to ask this question for fear of hate mail but where do you think the Bear Montana longbow would fit here? Are there any bows you mentioned that would be similar?
Bear Montana would fit in a fence like any other fence posts...
And that is all you need to know. 😂😂😂
Sorry, I don't mean to offend you or anyone, but there are many, many better and more efficient bows for almost half the price out there.
@@AnimaTriste No offense taken. I don't own one but always wondered why opinions on it are so polarized
@CampfireKodiak
Thank you for your kind answer. The intention of my comment was really just to make you reconsider your decision to buy one or to understand that you are not the only one disappointed if you already have one.
The bow is very badly made for a price, and highly inefficient due to bow profile and heavy, broad limbs, especially in the last third of limb length.
The bow has a tremendous handschock and is slow.
They sell under average bow just for the name of it for a price that would enable you to get a really good bow elsewhere.
Best wishes!
For a 29.5” draw on compound measurement, should I look to start at 30” or 29”? Many thanks, keep up the cool series!
Its hard to say, most folks lose an inch or so
Hi Cody I'm going to buy some new ILF limbs and am wondering if the foam core is really better than bamboo.Thanks Sir
Foam core is more stable across a large temp range but wood core typically feels softer and sounds better
@@tradlab1859 thanks Cody.
Thanks Cody!
@tradlab I have a 31.5” draw length and am a year out on my Wengerd reservation. That 21” riser you had is almost exactly what I’m thinking for myself. What’s the draw weight change for that bow?
4lb over what is marked if it is for a 25" riser. Call three rivers and they can help you.
Dude, Why have you used three yellows, the same shade yellow, on the one graph?! Im lost...
Which graph are you struggling with?
The only thing this video needs is that 2000s woman moaning over rock intro music ala The Push Archery early podcasts
I’ll work on that
@@tradlab1859Skip the music, just go right to business, that’s what we want!
134 fps with the right arrow weight for kinetic energy.
Get to the point u drag on n on n on