I picked up a piece of 1’x2’, smooth granite counter top for $50 at a local marble/granite company. For chisels, carving tools, axes, and planes I use 150, 1000, 3000, 5000, and 7000 grit sandpaper. I spray adhesive 150 grit to the granite. Some tools go into a jig and others are handheld for sharpening. Depending on the condition of the tool, I go in order of the grits I’ve listed. After the 150, you can just lay the succeeding grits directly onto the 150 and it will hold them in place. It usually takes about 2-3 minutes for a tool that needs completely worked from 150. Tools that stropping is no longer helping can be started at 3000 or 5000. Normally a carving tool rarely need sharpening if you have your strop nearby while working. I usually strop each tool just before I use it, just like a barber does his straight razor. If you use a jig, I suggest looking online for a couple videos on how to modify them slightly to better hold certain tools.
Great video especially for a beginner. I remember when I started to get into woodworking a couple years ago I watched a ton of sharpening videos and it is super confusing because some people say you have to buy this to sharpen and you have to use a jig or don't use a jig. It's a lot to process but in my experience start off with whatever you can afford and a jig. It's easier to get started I think. But now I seem to never use my sharpening jig it's just a skill you learn after you use hand tools for awhile
Great no nonsense advice. Everyone has their own preference "best way" that fits their shop environment, and type of craft. Try things . Experiment. Have fun and enjoy the process whatever yours happens to be . It's the journey not the destination.
I have used sandpaper glued to plywood works pretty good. I haven’t changed the sand paper though started using a few months ago. The plywood with sand paper have become my “ diamond plates “ until I can afford them.
as a cabinet maker here in the UK I have tried them all in the last 45 years now all I use is a washita oil stone and a strop outlasts diamond plates if you mount it correct also one stone to use
I use the wet dry paper method for the time being, but I'm saving for diamond stones. I use a 12x12 granite tile to put the paper on. when you said people get "bent out of shape" about people and the flatness of the plates I laughed so hard, i'm not sure you intended the pun, but it was funny none the less.
Good info James. I started out with water stones and they worked great but they were such a pain to set up and use that I didn't sharpen as often as I should have. I switched to the diamond stones and it is so much simpler, I can just leave the board I have them mounted in on the end of the bench and any time I feel like it's needed I generally just hit the strop but even if I need to go to the stones, it just takes a minute and I'm back to work.
OMG..you used "the best" and "sharpen" at the same time in a video title. You're a brave man Mr. Wright. Brace yourself!......lol. BTW, I'm using water stones, but when it wears out I want to try diamond plates too. Water stones can be a challenge in an unheated shop in the winter.
Great topic. My 30 yr old chisel set needs a lot of work to get a flat bevel. I’m going to try the cheap jig to set a baseline. I’m too inconsistent by hand. Although that is my goal to be able to hand sharpen
+Richard Wright sounds like a fun time. Yup the only way to improve by hand is to mess up more. It comes with time. But so nice when it finally clicks.
On your wet stones do you put any soap in the water? I put a couple drops of liquide soap and it seams to work better. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Good all around info for someone new to this! I''ve watched numerous vids on this now and it seems each person has developed their own preference or method. thanks!
I like to use 180 grit sandpaper when I first flatten a chisel or plane bottom. It's especially good when the plane has some rust or other imperfections. Then I move up to my diamond stones. I use Atoma stones. Then I finish off with a 8000 "grit" ceramic stone and then a strop. I have found that if I put too fine an edge on my A2 tool steel chisels, I end up chipping them. I'm not really sure how to make it sharp without making the edge too fine.
Appreciate the info. This is a topic I hem and haw over what to invest in a lot. I’m using sandpaper at the moment but I can see how this will get expensive pretty soon. I’ve noticed too that the flatness of my sharpening surface matters more if I don’t use the same surface each time. On plane irons especially. Great vids. I’ll kept watching.
James: I have found that when restoring old blades/chisels, the DMT Coarse just isn't aggressive enough for the initial shaping of the bevel. I wonder if the Extra Coarse would help with that. Plus, I got a 5000 grit ceramic stone (the instructions are in japanese) and now use that as my last operation. Stroping is an art all in itself. I can now get a mirror finish with the Japanese ceramic water stone. The best part about these is that you don't immerse them in water. Just a little on the surface and it works really well. Again, thanks for the video.
that is what I got the Extra corse plate for. I use it for grinding out nicks and chips. but if I have a lot of work to do I use 60 grit sandpaper on the floor to remove the majority first. There are few things a fun as a high grit wet stone. I love finishing on a 16K Shapton or some of the high end natural Japanese stones.
The first time I used the Japanese ceramic stone, I got a mirror finish just as smooth as my strop. It is amazing. Now, I have to practice free hand so I can cut the time down on tuning up my chisels. My problem is that I cannot seem to feel the bevel consistently. I don't want a camber on any of my cutting edges. Thanks again!
Hey James, I've always felt that woodworking was a missing piece in my life, and am finally taking the plunge now that these Covid Times are forcing us to rethink our lives a bit. And you are my MAIN MAN and I might even say my GURU so far (and probably for some time to come, I'm thinking). My beginner's project is that I've got a load of old wooden shelves that were in fact orignially floorboards that I picked up on the street and repurposed as shelves several years ago. After moving, they've been sitting in the cellar for a few years gathering dust and damp gunk, but I think I can get them into a decent state with a bit of love. I never actually got around to making them look really nice the first time round, i.e. getting right down to the wood (which is actually quite a pretty one, but I don't know enough yet to tell which!), but this time I am determined to get them looking gorgeous, and to maybe use some epoxy resin to fill the holes and cracks to create fun effects (let's seeeeeee about that though). So....... I started sanding, finally broke the motor of the ancient power sander of my parents' vintage, bought a new one (cordless, so I'm not regretting too much despite what I'm about to say), and soon discovered that apart from the NOISE and the DUST and endless charging of batteries and enormous consumption of electiricity, it takes FOREVER to get down to the grain :~/ (which I'm sure you would have happily told me if I had asked you first) So that was a big false start on my learning curve, and now I've ordered myself a set of chisels and more importantly for starters a no. 5 hand plane - a fairly cheap one (Spear and Jackson) that you probably wouldn't approve of, but I must start somewhere. I opened the box and discovered of course that I need to set it up and sharpen it. And there be many many dragons, so I've headed to this video, and a couple of other guys'. After taking it all in, I'm inclined to go straight to your advice (because you are THE MAN) and set myself up your way with the DMT plates and the leather strop. The chisel set comes with a stone and honing guide, but not sure how good those will be, as it's also a cheap and cheerful starter pack (link at the bottom). My question is simply this: what is the minimum number of DMT plates that I need to start with? Can I get away with two? I don't mind spending a bit of money, if this is something that will last a lifetime (or at least half a lifetime if I don't use them quite as much as you), but maybe three plates is a bit extravagant for the time being! If I get only two to start with, which ones? When I go on Amazon, here: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 .... I get SEVEN options of coarseness/fineness, which is a little overwhelming. If I get two, which ones should I get? And if I decide to worry a bit less about the cost of it all and get three, again which three? In the video you said "coarse, medium and fine", but I don't see one that is between coarse and fine on the Amazon listing (the one that does have the word medium in it doesn't sound to be in the space between coarse and fine - confusing!) Boom, that's all I wanted to ask, in my long-winded way. Glad to have found you, anyway. Just to double the admiration - I've actually been sharing your videos with a friend who is teaching English in one of the coldest inhabited places on Earth - Yakutsk, Russia - and who is living in a rented flat and is therefore a bit jealous of my freedom to get into woodworking projects. Despite the jealousy, he is nonetheless equally full of awe for your work. All the best! (Here's the chisel set - the Amazon reviews say it's good for the price, but you never know, eh:) www.amazon.co.uk/ToolTronix-Sharpening-Carpentry-Woodworking-Included/dp/B07XPGN2G2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ToolTronix+8+Pc+Wood+Carving+Chisel+Set+Sharpening+Stone+Honing+Guide&qid=1607969590&s=diy&sr=1-1
I bought a Lansky diamond stone system (3 stones) and it works good. It does occur to me that if I include the price of the Veritas jig, I’m dam close to having spent as much money as I would have if I bought a Tormag grinding wheel system.
My experience with diamond stones is that they wear down to the speed of a norton cystolon in a about 6 to 12 months and it's downhill from there. Oil stones are pretty fast if you treat them like waterstones and lap them, not for flatness reasons, rather for resurfacing because they do glaze over and stop cutting. The other difference is that one is 100$ and the other is 20$ and lasts longer. And with waterstones it's all in the setup, there's the splash and go that work just like diamonds, you just splash them and go, I would avoid soaking stones unless you are willing to permanently soak them for convenience, and rubbing another stone or whatever you find to flatten for like 20 seconds before each sharpening it's not the end of the world.
you can but they will not work as well. dimonds do not cut with the slury like wet stones the fluid on top is there to move the grindings out of the way.
I currently use sandpaper on a granite plate to flatten water stones... but I am switching to a modified Cosman method of a 1000 fine diamond stone then 6000 glass stone and finish with the 16000 glass stone. I have a course diamond to flatten the glass stones when needed. The water stones are just too messy. (ordered the new stones at xmas) My only complaint with the diamond stations you and Sellers use is when working the backs of chisels or plane blades. The other stones are in the way... I am considering making a station with the stones laid out end to end... I use a jig so the reach wouldn't effect my sharpening angles and if I put it on the end of a bench it's easier to stand next to it... with the plate aligned end to end there is no obstruction with working backs from the side of the plate... and I only have 3 working plates/stones. The 1000 diamond and the 6K and 16K glass stones... so about 27 inches long overall... (width of my bench)
I love the feeling of a high grit glass! for the diamond station that is why I make them easily removable. flattening the back is rare enough it is no pain at all to pull them out for that. it would be interesting to try the end to end idea. I would love to see what you come up with.
I started out with diamond stones but I didnt get DMT and I gotta say that was a big mistake. The stone wore down after the 2nd use. I finally took the hit in my wallet and got a course DMT stone (roughly 300 grit) Its all I have for now but honestly it works just fine if that's all you have. Craftsmen for centuries only had low grit methods to sharpen and they made beautiful stuff.
Great info James :) I was fortunate enough to have too much work to do instead of getting into sharpening debates. The process simply can't take up half the day for me and although I have cheaper diamond plates until I upgrade, they do a great and a fast job :) As you see in my videos, my tools are very sharp and get the job done well. It's only from sharpening videos like this that people can learn to be effective and actually enjoy more time woodworking. Thank you ॐ
You can buy the thin 6"x3" diamond plates for under $5.00 each in grits from 60 to 3000. No flimsy plastic backing, just a piece of thin gauge steel with the diamonds on one surface. Glue them to a block of wood, if you want. Or just lay them over a flat surface when you want to use them.
Thats what I used before I got the DMT plates. I stuck them to a granite tile, and used them for about a year. They still cut great and I use them when I travel.
I'm sorry if this is a repeat question. You listed extra extra fine, but your link is to extra fine. DMT has extra extra at 8000, extra at 1200. Do you think your final stone is closer to 8000 or 1200? Thank you!
thanks man. I was able to get them down the stairs. my father came over and it was fairly quick. the fun will be bringing them back up as they will be one piece at the time.
Don't actually need one for diamonds. It helps clear the steel away and make some cut a little bit better. I just use a cheap window cleaner as it evaporates quickly.
DMT says in their literature that you can use their plates dry--no lubrication at all. Have you tried that? What do you think of the idea? I tried it and it seemed like I could wipe away the metal dust with a rag. But it feels wrong, somehow, to be doing it dry.
+TheWarriorWorkshop yup. There were a lot of others I could go into with oil, natural, ceramic and so on. But I have less experience there and am not as comfortable talking about what I don't know as much about. So true the cost is up there. Though the high end Shapton and natural stones are even further.
Thank you so much for this! I like to tell myself I will get to your level someday but I keep playing the, "I need this tool first" game. Life on a budget makes it hard to get the tools I want. I think I am going with a whetstone for now. Just have to find the best bang for the buck. Any preferences?
Have a question for you , lately I bought a duel diamond plate 325 course/ 1200 extra fine ( sharpal ) works fine with me but didn't give me the keen mirror sharp edge . so advise me pls what if I bought dmt extra extra fine ?? 8000 mesh 3 micron to sharp after 1200 is that will give me what I need for sharpening ?? thanks 😊 p.s. I'm one of the million subscribers who love , respect and learn from your channel . 🌷
Diamond plates will not give you a mirror finish. They cut differently and because of the striations they don't reflect the same as wet stones do. But that doesn't mean that they are any less sharp. That's why I always go to a strap after the diamond stones that makes me feel good about them then going to a mirror finish.
@@WoodByWright O , I see now all I need as a newbie to get my tools sharp as hell and figure out more about sharpening and woodworking 😄 you don't know how I'm happy to go step by step from sandpaper to diamond plates and maybe finding my understanding with my tools if that makes sense 😊. thanks a million .
I hope this isn't too specific to me, but I have some cheap HF chisels and I've been reading Hock's "The Perfect Edge" and I have spent hours trying to lap one of the backs flat. What do you do to lap a new chisel when it comes from somewhere questionable? Lapping, in general, is the first step, and it seems like the hardest (which is just totally not fair to beginning sharpeners). Should I just find a friend with a sharpening machine?
dont over think it too much. if it is flat along the tip then that is good enough for the beginner. most of mine are dished in the middle of the back as long as it is flat along the tip then it is good to go.
Hello James! I'm starting with this sharpening and in Argentina you can not get the diamond stones to sharpen, so I'll gradually try to bring them from USA. meanwhile only through my brother could I get a diamond stone "course", so to replace the other levels of sharpening the stones, what kind of sand grain would you recommend to replace the "medium fine" and "extra extra fine "?
Have tried water stones, cheap Dimond sharpeners and have been disappointed every single time, have even gotten stones fresh out of the box with massive curves in them, is this normal, have used honing guides with kept blades at the right angle, would these plates bet different
That's fairly common for cheap plates. If you're checking them with a feeler gauge then you're getting a bit too picky. But if they're visually curved that's not uncommon with cheap plates. A honing guide doesn't guarantee a square edge. It just guarantees the desired angle and a flat bevel. You can still put more pressure on one side or the other and grind off one side more than the other.
Thanks for the video. I enjoy your posts. How do you sharpen your spokes have blades? Is there a quality jig available for these? I've tried making a jig per Peter Sellars , but my efforts were not very good. My ability to cut at the correct angles is not good enough.
Ithanks. Am I guessing you mean spokeshave blade? if I am wrong let me know. I have an older video on that topic here. czcams.com/video/_TPkaJT7X3s/video.html
Wood By Wright thanks so much. My spokeshave is one from Stanley. I like the one you used in your video. Never saw one in Australia. I use sandpaper and toughened glass. As a beginner hobbyist I can’t justify - to senior management - the cost of three diamond plates. I’ll apply the technique. Much appreciated 👍
I’ve been struggling with deciding on a sharpening system. (I am so done with the sandpaper method!) I know I’m going with diamond plates, but I’m not sure which ones. Have you had any experience with the Ultra Sharp plates? I know Amazon has a set of three for about the price of two DMT plates.
Wood By Wright Thank you! After a lot of arguing with myself I’ve decided to go with DMT. I’ll start with the course and fine plates, and later add in the extra fine. I decided it was probably just better to go with the quality instead of trying to save a few bucks. Thanks again for the input!
Hey J; On the leather (I dont have strop butt etc yet) What side of the leather is used ? and how stiff/ is it, like dense stiff, i been trying a belt and I dont think I like it.
the stiffer the better. some like the rough side some like the smooth. whatever you like. I use the rough side on mine as it holds the compound better.
Any experience with the less expensive dura-sharp brand? Have you heard of anyone making CBN plates, yet? Thanks for the info. Yeah, I fell for the Harbor Freight four-in-one block, you are absolutely correct, it sucks. I am back to sand paper until I can save up for coated steel plates. I was hoping that someone would make CBN plates by the time I save up for some. The wheels for the grinder are supposed to be the cat's meow for grinder sharpening, but I don't like convex bevels on my planes and chisels.
I have used the Dura-sharp plates a few times but have not been impressed. they cut slower and I am not sure why. when i got mine I saved a long time for them but I am so glad I did as they have lasted so well. I am very happy.
""I've even seen people using toothpaste, and it works fine"... not a very scientific comment. There is a video out there of some dude comparing household items as alternative for stroping compound, and toothpaste sucked while stuff like car polish did good. You put out a lot of good stuff, which I appreciate, but then again you also make a lot of loose comnents, which is a dissapointmentment.
LOL depends on what you used. I have tested tooth past and it worked just fine. I have also used raw leather and that works too. I did not say how many strokes it takes to get the same result just that you can get the same result.
I picked up a piece of 1’x2’, smooth granite counter top for $50 at a local marble/granite company. For chisels, carving tools, axes, and planes I use 150, 1000, 3000, 5000, and 7000 grit sandpaper. I spray adhesive 150 grit to the granite. Some tools go into a jig and others are handheld for sharpening. Depending on the condition of the tool, I go in order of the grits I’ve listed. After the 150, you can just lay the succeeding grits directly onto the 150 and it will hold them in place. It usually takes about 2-3 minutes for a tool that needs completely worked from 150. Tools that stropping is no longer helping can be started at 3000 or 5000. Normally a carving tool rarely need sharpening if you have your strop nearby while working. I usually strop each tool just before I use it, just like a barber does his straight razor.
If you use a jig, I suggest looking online for a couple videos on how to modify them slightly to better hold certain tools.
lot of good ideas there. everyone has to find the way that works best for them.
Great video especially for a beginner. I remember when I started to get into woodworking a couple years ago I watched a ton of sharpening videos and it is super confusing because some people say you have to buy this to sharpen and you have to use a jig or don't use a jig. It's a lot to process but in my experience start off with whatever you can afford and a jig. It's easier to get started I think. But now I seem to never use my sharpening jig it's just a skill you learn after you use hand tools for awhile
+Holly Helton so true Holly! I could not have said it better.
Great no nonsense advice. Everyone has their own preference "best way" that fits their shop environment, and type of craft. Try things . Experiment. Have fun and enjoy the process whatever yours happens to be . It's the journey not the destination.
I could not have said it better. thanks for the great words Dana!
I have used sandpaper glued to plywood works pretty good. I haven’t changed the sand paper though started using a few months ago. The plywood with sand paper have become my “ diamond plates “ until I can afford them.
great way to start out!
as a cabinet maker here in the UK I have tried them all in the last 45 years now all I use is a washita oil stone and a strop outlasts diamond plates if you mount it correct also one stone to use
So true. I did not talk about oil stones, but I realized I should have when I was editing. thanks, Chris!
It's become more about "showmanship" than anything else chris...It's about woodworking not surgery..
I use the wet dry paper method for the time being, but I'm saving for diamond stones. I use a 12x12 granite tile to put the paper on. when you said people get "bent out of shape" about people and the flatness of the plates I laughed so hard, i'm not sure you intended the pun, but it was funny none the less.
Thanks Jack. lol yup I love unintended puns.
Good info James. I started out with water stones and they worked great but they were such a pain to set up and use that I didn't sharpen as often as I should have. I switched to the diamond stones and it is so much simpler, I can just leave the board I have them mounted in on the end of the bench and any time I feel like it's needed I generally just hit the strop but even if I need to go to the stones, it just takes a minute and I'm back to work.
so true. Thanks man!
OMG..you used "the best" and "sharpen" at the same time in a video title. You're a brave man Mr. Wright. Brace yourself!......lol. BTW, I'm using water stones, but when it wears out I want to try diamond plates too. Water stones can be a challenge in an unheated shop in the winter.
LOL I thought it would be fun. we will start a few fights yet! so true. waterstones do not like the cold!
Bring them in the house at the slightest hint of freezing temps ahead.
Great topic. My 30 yr old chisel set needs a lot of work to get a flat bevel. I’m going to try the cheap jig to set a baseline. I’m too inconsistent by hand. Although that is my goal to be able to hand sharpen
+Richard Wright sounds like a fun time. Yup the only way to improve by hand is to mess up more. It comes with time. But so nice when it finally clicks.
On your wet stones do you put any soap in the water? I put a couple drops of liquide soap and it seams to work better. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Good all around info for someone new to this! I''ve watched numerous vids on this now and it seems each person has developed their own preference or method. thanks!
so true. there are thousands of ways to sharpen, and everyone needs to find the one that works for them.
I was taught to flatten waterstones with sandpaper on a piece of glass. Really easy and fast.
I had thought of doing that but never did always just thought it would be too much mess, but I guess you never know tell you try!
I like to use 180 grit sandpaper when I first flatten a chisel or plane bottom. It's especially good when the plane has some rust or other imperfections. Then I move up to my diamond stones. I use Atoma stones. Then I finish off with a 8000 "grit" ceramic stone and then a strop.
I have found that if I put too fine an edge on my A2 tool steel chisels, I end up chipping them. I'm not really sure how to make it sharp without making the edge too fine.
Nice. I do much the same with initial flattening or setting a new bevel but I get too impatient and jump down to 60 or 80 grit. LOL thanks!
that is what I do. I call it hybrid sharpening. Sand paper for the initial job on a new tool. Then diamond.
Appreciate the info. This is a topic I hem and haw over what to invest in a lot. I’m using sandpaper at the moment but I can see how this will get expensive pretty soon. I’ve noticed too that the flatness of my sharpening surface matters more if I don’t use the same surface each time. On plane irons especially. Great vids. I’ll kept watching.
thanks John. more to come!
James: I have found that when restoring old blades/chisels, the DMT Coarse just isn't aggressive enough for the initial shaping of the bevel. I wonder if the Extra Coarse would help with that. Plus, I got a 5000 grit ceramic stone (the instructions are in japanese) and now use that as my last operation. Stroping is an art all in itself. I can now get a mirror finish with the Japanese ceramic water stone. The best part about these is that you don't immerse them in water. Just a little on the surface and it works really well. Again, thanks for the video.
that is what I got the Extra corse plate for. I use it for grinding out nicks and chips. but if I have a lot of work to do I use 60 grit sandpaper on the floor to remove the majority first. There are few things a fun as a high grit wet stone. I love finishing on a 16K Shapton or some of the high end natural Japanese stones.
The first time I used the Japanese ceramic stone, I got a mirror finish just as smooth as my strop. It is amazing. Now, I have to practice free hand so I can cut the time down on tuning up my chisels. My problem is that I cannot seem to feel the bevel consistently. I don't want a camber on any of my cutting edges. Thanks again!
Hey James, I've always felt that woodworking was a missing piece in my life, and am finally taking the plunge now that these Covid Times are forcing us to rethink our lives a bit. And you are my MAIN MAN and I might even say my GURU so far (and probably for some time to come, I'm thinking). My beginner's project is that I've got a load of old wooden shelves that were in fact orignially floorboards that I picked up on the street and repurposed as shelves several years ago. After moving, they've been sitting in the cellar for a few years gathering dust and damp gunk, but I think I can get them into a decent state with a bit of love. I never actually got around to making them look really nice the first time round, i.e. getting right down to the wood (which is actually quite a pretty one, but I don't know enough yet to tell which!), but this time I am determined to get them looking gorgeous, and to maybe use some epoxy resin to fill the holes and cracks to create fun effects (let's seeeeeee about that though). So....... I started sanding, finally broke the motor of the ancient power sander of my parents' vintage, bought a new one (cordless, so I'm not regretting too much despite what I'm about to say), and soon discovered that apart from the NOISE and the DUST and endless charging of batteries and enormous consumption of electiricity, it takes FOREVER to get down to the grain :~/ (which I'm sure you would have happily told me if I had asked you first)
So that was a big false start on my learning curve, and now I've ordered myself a set of chisels and more importantly for starters a no. 5 hand plane - a fairly cheap one (Spear and Jackson) that you probably wouldn't approve of, but I must start somewhere. I opened the box and discovered of course that I need to set it up and sharpen it. And there be many many dragons, so I've headed to this video, and a couple of other guys'. After taking it all in, I'm inclined to go straight to your advice (because you are THE MAN) and set myself up your way with the DMT plates and the leather strop. The chisel set comes with a stone and honing guide, but not sure how good those will be, as it's also a cheap and cheerful starter pack (link at the bottom). My question is simply this: what is the minimum number of DMT plates that I need to start with? Can I get away with two? I don't mind spending a bit of money, if this is something that will last a lifetime (or at least half a lifetime if I don't use them quite as much as you), but maybe three plates is a bit extravagant for the time being! If I get only two to start with, which ones?
When I go on Amazon, here:
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1
.... I get SEVEN options of coarseness/fineness, which is a little overwhelming. If I get two, which ones should I get? And if I decide to worry a bit less about the cost of it all and get three, again which three? In the video you said "coarse, medium and fine", but I don't see one that is between coarse and fine on the Amazon listing (the one that does have the word medium in it doesn't sound to be in the space between coarse and fine - confusing!)
Boom, that's all I wanted to ask, in my long-winded way. Glad to have found you, anyway. Just to double the admiration - I've actually been sharing your videos with a friend who is teaching English in one of the coldest inhabited places on Earth - Yakutsk, Russia - and who is living in a rented flat and is therefore a bit jealous of my freedom to get into woodworking projects. Despite the jealousy, he is nonetheless equally full of awe for your work. All the best!
(Here's the chisel set - the Amazon reviews say it's good for the price, but you never know, eh:)
www.amazon.co.uk/ToolTronix-Sharpening-Carpentry-Woodworking-Included/dp/B07XPGN2G2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ToolTronix+8+Pc+Wood+Carving+Chisel+Set+Sharpening+Stone+Honing+Guide&qid=1607969590&s=diy&sr=1-1
I bought a Lansky diamond stone system (3 stones) and it works good. It does occur to me that if I include the price of the Veritas jig, I’m dam close to having spent as much money as I would have if I bought a Tormag grinding wheel system.
A lot of people like a Tormag. that is what makes the sport so much fun. no right way to do it.
My experience with diamond stones is that they wear down to the speed of a norton cystolon in a about 6 to 12 months and it's downhill from there. Oil stones are pretty fast if you treat them like waterstones and lap them, not for flatness reasons, rather for resurfacing because they do glaze over and stop cutting. The other difference is that one is 100$ and the other is 20$ and lasts longer. And with waterstones it's all in the setup, there's the splash and go that work just like diamonds, you just splash them and go, I would avoid soaking stones unless you are willing to permanently soak them for convenience, and rubbing another stone or whatever you find to flatten for like 20 seconds before each sharpening it's not the end of the world.
If you get the cheap ones they wear out quickly. If you get the good ones they last for a decade or more.
You can apply oil to your daimond stone. Jigs are the best for degrees, just be sure you are applying equal pressure.
you can but they will not work as well. dimonds do not cut with the slury like wet stones the fluid on top is there to move the grindings out of the way.
If you have two stones you can flatten them against eachother by alternating sides it works really well.
I currently use sandpaper on a granite plate to flatten water stones... but I am switching to a modified Cosman method of a 1000 fine diamond stone then 6000 glass stone and finish with the 16000 glass stone. I have a course diamond to flatten the glass stones when needed. The water stones are just too messy. (ordered the new stones at xmas)
My only complaint with the diamond stations you and Sellers use is when working the backs of chisels or plane blades. The other stones are in the way... I am considering making a station with the stones laid out end to end... I use a jig so the reach wouldn't effect my sharpening angles and if I put it on the end of a bench it's easier to stand next to it... with the plate aligned end to end there is no obstruction with working backs from the side of the plate... and I only have 3 working plates/stones. The 1000 diamond and the 6K and 16K glass stones... so about 27 inches long overall... (width of my bench)
I love the feeling of a high grit glass!
for the diamond station that is why I make them easily removable. flattening the back is rare enough it is no pain at all to pull them out for that. it would be interesting to try the end to end idea. I would love to see what you come up with.
I'll send photos...
Great video James I myself I am using the wet Stones right now up to 15000 Grit! Thanks for sharing!
I do love the feeling of high grit sharpening. thanks Opa!
I use older Norton India oil Stones. Not as durable as diamond plates, More durable than water, they work very well (with a strop of course).
nice. I love the feeling of those!
I started out with diamond stones but I didnt get DMT and I gotta say that was a big mistake. The stone wore down after the 2nd use. I finally took the hit in my wallet and got a course DMT stone (roughly 300 grit) Its all I have for now but honestly it works just fine if that's all you have. Craftsmen for centuries only had low grit methods to sharpen and they made beautiful stuff.
Do true. I have tried several others but nothing works as well.
@@WoodByWright next time I won't go cheap. Would you rather have your wallet cry once or twice, am I right?
Great overview James, thanks for posting it. I use all of them depending on my mood.
thanks Bill
Great info James :) I was fortunate enough to have too much work to do instead of getting into sharpening debates. The process simply can't take up half the day for me and although I have cheaper diamond plates until I upgrade, they do a great and a fast job :) As you see in my videos, my tools are very sharp and get the job done well. It's only from sharpening videos like this that people can learn to be effective and actually enjoy more time woodworking. Thank you ॐ
so true man. I could not have said it better.
Actually both of vou gentleman are really good teachers. I’ve learned a lot watching the 2 of you.
Thank you Jose :) ॐ
Great video
Great video, and I agree. If you can afford diamond plates, its the way to go.
thanks man!
You can buy the thin 6"x3" diamond plates for under $5.00 each in grits from 60 to 3000. No flimsy plastic backing, just a piece of thin gauge steel with the diamonds on one surface. Glue them to a block of wood, if you want. Or just lay them over a flat surface when you want to use them.
Thats what I used before I got the DMT plates. I stuck them to a granite tile, and used them for about a year. They still cut great and I use them when I travel.
I'm sorry if this is a repeat question. You listed extra extra fine, but your link is to extra fine. DMT has extra extra at 8000, extra at 1200.
Do you think your final stone is closer to 8000 or 1200? Thank you!
the final stone is the extra fine 1200~ with a strop there is no need for the Extra extra fine.
thank you!@@WoodByWright
Thank you! I’ll be checking out DMT. I hope you were able to get those slabs moved. I would have stopped by if I lived closer.
thanks man. I was able to get them down the stairs. my father came over and it was fairly quick. the fun will be bringing them back up as they will be one piece at the time.
Hello 🤗 witch lubricant works best for diamond plates?
Don't actually need one for diamonds. It helps clear the steel away and make some cut a little bit better. I just use a cheap window cleaner as it evaporates quickly.
Hi there from Portugal,
You need to make a video "How to make diamond stones stay clean" :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
+Blog das Madeiras lol I don't know how I do it. I just wipe them off so they do not rust.
@8:30 "Bent out of shape" Ha.
Very nice sharp video! If I tried to talk about this it would be much more gritty, and messy.
LOL thanks Bill!
Great video and thanks for going trough the different types.
My pleasure. thanks!
DMT says in their literature that you can use their plates dry--no lubrication at all. Have you tried that? What do you think of the idea? I tried it and it seemed like I could wipe away the metal dust with a rag. But it feels wrong, somehow, to be doing it dry.
if I am just doing a quick brush with them I often do it dry, but I also feel wrong about it. LOL
Nice job. Only comment I would have added is the Shapton ceramic stones. Just as quick as the diamond. Only problem is the cost
+TheWarriorWorkshop yup. There were a lot of others I could go into with oil, natural, ceramic and so on. But I have less experience there and am not as comfortable talking about what I don't know as much about. So true the cost is up there. Though the high end Shapton and natural stones are even further.
some good things in here i learnt thanks!
my pleasure thanks John!
i agree
Nice one 👍👍👍 Great advice especially for a beginner in the world of woodworking. Liked and subscribed 😎
Thanks Nick that means a lot.
Your welcome 👍
Thank you so much for this! I like to tell myself I will get to your level someday but I keep playing the, "I need this tool first" game. Life on a budget makes it hard to get the tools I want. I think I am going with a whetstone for now. Just have to find the best bang for the buck. Any preferences?
Right on. it will treat you well for a long time to come!
Have a question for you , lately I bought a duel diamond plate 325 course/ 1200 extra fine ( sharpal ) works fine with me but didn't give me the keen mirror sharp edge .
so advise me pls what if I bought dmt extra extra fine ?? 8000 mesh 3 micron to sharp after 1200 is that will give me what I need for sharpening ?? thanks 😊
p.s. I'm one of the million subscribers who love , respect and learn from your channel . 🌷
Diamond plates will not give you a mirror finish. They cut differently and because of the striations they don't reflect the same as wet stones do. But that doesn't mean that they are any less sharp. That's why I always go to a strap after the diamond stones that makes me feel good about them then going to a mirror finish.
@@WoodByWright O , I see now all I need as a newbie to get my tools sharp as hell and figure out more about sharpening and woodworking 😄 you don't know how I'm happy to go step by step from sandpaper to diamond plates and maybe finding my understanding with my tools if that makes sense 😊.
thanks a million .
Before you can hone your tools, you must first hone your skills.
+Double Dare Fan true. But the only way to do that is to jump in.
Why not use a rotary disc?
A lot of people like to use those. I just find this a little bit faster and more fun.
I hope this isn't too specific to me, but I have some cheap HF chisels and I've been reading Hock's "The Perfect Edge" and I have spent hours trying to lap one of the backs flat. What do you do to lap a new chisel when it comes from somewhere questionable? Lapping, in general, is the first step, and it seems like the hardest (which is just totally not fair to beginning sharpeners). Should I just find a friend with a sharpening machine?
dont over think it too much. if it is flat along the tip then that is good enough for the beginner. most of mine are dished in the middle of the back as long as it is flat along the tip then it is good to go.
Hello James! I'm starting with this sharpening and in Argentina you can not get the diamond stones to sharpen, so I'll gradually try to bring them from USA. meanwhile only through my brother could I get a diamond stone "course", so to replace the other levels of sharpening the stones, what kind of sand grain would you recommend to replace the "medium fine" and "extra extra fine "?
if you are using wet stones I would say 600 grit and 1000 grit then hit the strop after that and you are golden.
Have tried water stones, cheap Dimond sharpeners and have been disappointed every single time, have even gotten stones fresh out of the box with massive curves in them, is this normal, have used honing guides with kept blades at the right angle, would these plates bet different
That's fairly common for cheap plates. If you're checking them with a feeler gauge then you're getting a bit too picky. But if they're visually curved that's not uncommon with cheap plates. A honing guide doesn't guarantee a square edge. It just guarantees the desired angle and a flat bevel. You can still put more pressure on one side or the other and grind off one side more than the other.
Thanks for the video. I enjoy your posts. How do you sharpen your spokes have blades? Is there a quality jig available for these? I've tried making a jig per Peter Sellars , but my efforts were not very good. My ability to cut at the correct angles is not good enough.
Ithanks. Am I guessing you mean spokeshave blade? if I am wrong let me know. I have an older video on that topic here. czcams.com/video/_TPkaJT7X3s/video.html
Wood By Wright thanks so much. My spokeshave is one from Stanley. I like the one you used in your video. Never saw one in Australia. I use sandpaper and toughened glass. As a beginner hobbyist I can’t justify - to senior management - the cost of three diamond plates. I’ll apply the technique. Much appreciated 👍
Thanks for this video, I’ll order some dmt diamond stones after Xmas. Are you going to show actual sharpening as well? :)
nice. I have sharpening videos on most common tools, and a few uncommon tools if you want to see those.
I’ve been struggling with deciding on a sharpening system. (I am so done with the sandpaper method!) I know I’m going with diamond plates, but I’m not sure which ones. Have you had any experience with the Ultra Sharp plates? I know Amazon has a set of three for about the price of two DMT plates.
+Black Tooth Woodworking I have used them once and they cut well. I have heard they do not last as long though.
Wood By Wright Thank you! After a lot of arguing with myself I’ve decided to go with DMT. I’ll start with the course and fine plates, and later add in the extra fine. I decided it was probably just better to go with the quality instead of trying to save a few bucks. Thanks again for the input!
When you say medium fine in reference to the DMT plates is that the medium extra fine or the fine plate? Having trouble with the terms on amazon.
+Denis Murphy they use to call the medium "medium fine" but they recently simplified it to just Medium. Sorry for the confusion.
Wood By Wright No problem thank you for the response. Looking forward to building this setup.
Great idea James! cheers...rr
thanks Richard!
Stones😁👍🏻
+xander witt lol yup
Hey J; On the leather (I dont have strop butt etc yet) What side of the leather is used ? and how stiff/ is it, like dense stiff, i been trying a belt and I dont think I like it.
the stiffer the better. some like the rough side some like the smooth. whatever you like. I use the rough side on mine as it holds the compound better.
thank you James
Finally for once im the first. Yes! Great instructional Video als always
Nice! I really need to come up with a prize for that.
Any experience with the less expensive dura-sharp brand? Have you heard of anyone making CBN plates, yet? Thanks for the info. Yeah, I fell for the Harbor Freight four-in-one block, you are absolutely correct, it sucks. I am back to sand paper until I can save up for coated steel plates. I was hoping that someone would make CBN plates by the time I save up for some. The wheels for the grinder are supposed to be the cat's meow for grinder sharpening, but I don't like convex bevels on my planes and chisels.
I have used the Dura-sharp plates a few times but have not been impressed. they cut slower and I am not sure why. when i got mine I saved a long time for them but I am so glad I did as they have lasted so well. I am very happy.
Wood By Wright
"but I am"... What?
LOL
Shop? Is this a retail outlet? Or are you calling your tool-shed a shop?
A shop is a place where work is conducted.
I think I am the last guy alive using oil stones.
oh no a lot of carvers love them as they can keep them on the bench. they are a type of wet stone that just feels good.
I never sharpen. I just push harder.
LOL you and me both!
Brian Prusa - just cause your head comes to a point doesn't mean ur sharp!!
are water stones okay to use for my bitch chisels?
sure. that is all i used for sharpening for a long time.
Buy once cry once!
Lol yup!
""I've even seen people using toothpaste, and it works fine"... not a very scientific comment. There is a video out there of some dude comparing household items as alternative for stroping compound, and toothpaste sucked while stuff like car polish did good. You put out a lot of good stuff, which I appreciate, but then again you also make a lot of loose comnents, which is a dissapointmentment.
LOL depends on what you used. I have tested tooth past and it worked just fine. I have also used raw leather and that works too. I did not say how many strokes it takes to get the same result just that you can get the same result.
That difference is commonly known as "polishing the cannonball."
I like that one! I might have to use that i the future!