There are so many videos out there of back yard DIY guys working on there own truck. Nothing wrong with that but they usually have to much talk. That is not knowledgeable. It’s nice to see a professional. Telling a little bit of the pro tricks and proper Technical steps. To help the DIY guys make less mistakes. Great job on that video. Very helpful. I have been a heavy duty equipment/truck mechanic for 30 plus years. I’m not familiar much with the Dmax mechanicals. Simply because I have not had the call to work on those light duty engines. I just acquired an 06 GMC 3500 LBZ. So it’s interesting to see the insiders view. That way I can plan what I want to do to mine.
Great video Kyle. I learned quite a bit from this one. I'm getting to be pretty good on the Powerstrokes, but am still learning on the Duramax. Thanks for the teaching!! 👍👍
I work for Cummins and we use a factory tool when running overhead that gives you very consistent results, It's a 6in-lb T-handle torque wrench (cummins part number 3376592) it's got a 1/4 drive end that you can put whatever adapter needed to match up with the adjuster, most of our stuff uses a 5mm allen adjuster screw.
Interesting to hear things like this...where you might not know a certain tool exists unless you worked on a specific brand of motor. That's cool Bryan, thanks for sharing.
I know there are only slight differences between a Duramax and a LA360, but I really enjoyed replacing the heads on my car! Didn't have to lift the body either! Great educational video Kyle!
I did that to my Lb7 back in 2017 its very time consuming never worked on diesel before just gas engines, it all started with filling up at diesel station that contained free water in their underground tank. It busted three injectors plus one of the seals on the high pressure pump which led to diesel leaking into the oil system. I had to tear it all the way down due to Lb7 injectors are inside the valve cover. Once there I had the cylinder heads rebuilt. All brand new MA injectors, new water pump from MA , also a fuel air separation system from air dog and got rid of that OEM useless water catcher and filter. he he. still going strong 165k miles on it. I wish this video would've been out then it would've taken me a lot less time to complete the job. Instead of a month and a half I probable would have done it in a week
Just bought me another duramax. 2013 lml and guess what the head gaskets are bad. Looks like another fun couple weekends. Sad part is the rad hoses are soft coolant tank is clean only time it pushes coolant out is under load. Dealer had it cleaned up so nice didn’t see the coolant in the fender until I got home.
Hello Kyle, Thanks for the video..... I had a runaway on my 06 LLY today and it believe I bent a couple pushrods. I'm also going to be doing ARP head studs, etc. Thanks again and it was great meeting you down at Mark and Ryan's place this summer at the truck show on that Friday evening.
As a automotive machinist with Duramax heads they are very bad about valve guides wearing bad. In order to fix that you put a bronze guid liner in and it will never wear. Also grinding the valves and curing the seats and making sure the recession is in spec.
Great video man. Lots of good to know info:) Very curious did you end up increasing the rpm/redline of your LBZ after all these upgrades? Also curious what kind of paint you used for your intake? Might paint mine too while they are off.
Great video could have used this when I did my heads and studs a few years ago. I did it with the cab on and yes lots of small steps too get things to come together.
When you did yours with the cab on were you able to install the studs and then install the head onto the studs? Or set the head in place and thread the studs through the head?
Had to put the back studs in the head then place the head on the block after that you can drop the remaining studs in. Same for removing old head bolts.
I just got my lb7 back together after a head gasket job, they put new valve seals in at the machine shop but I didn’t know I was supposed to buy new springs, the old ones will be fine won’t they?
Just wondering why you didn't port and polish the intake and exhaust ports on the head? I've heard that you can pick up quite a bit of HP just from doing that alone!
@@RustbeltMechanic wow I wonder why nobody will machine them?! I figured most engine machine shops would do that.. I have done some research on gasket matching and polishing and you can pick up noticable HP by just removing, transitioning and smoothing your intake, exhaust ports and turbo pedestal with a grinder and sand paper! I'm doing my EGR delete, CP3 conversion, and WCfab Y-Bridge and intake install on my 2013 LML this week and am going to clean up what I can. Depending on how things go, I might pull the turbo and clean it up some. It seems pretty straight forward just time consuming
Negative, did not go with any alternate fire cam. Wanted to see what the stock block, rotating assembly and cam would hold. Still holding strong with Appx 750 HP with compound turbos
hey man i hope you can help me i have asked so many people and no one can give me an answer i have a 2006 gmc lbz duramax and i want to install a oil temp gauge and there are a lot of ports on the oil heat exchanger could you help me out please with one is the hot side (pre cooler ') any help would be great
So I have done some looking into this one myself. I haven’t personally done this yet but plan on making a video about it when I get the part and the time. From my research the port on the top of the cooler with the larger 10mm Allen plug is the hottest point (pre-cooler) to get a reading at. Hope that helps.
Rustbelt Mechanic thank you that helps a lot I really hope you do a video on it if you tell me what gauge you would like I would be more than happy to donate one to your channel I work for a parts store because there is not one video on CZcams for a oil temp so I think you would be helping out quite a few people so just let me know if I can help
evan hale, I did my own, took about a month lol working an hour or two at a time. The shops wanted $6000 to just put in head gaskets, my old 03 isn’t worth much more than that lol so I bought the Haynes book and watched a ton of videos. Got it running again last week, I’ve never attempted anything mechanical besides brakes and oil changes, if I can do it anyone can. Just take tons of pictures and label everything. I’ve got about $1,500 in the job but I put in a new water pump and cp3 fuel pump while it was apart and of course you have to buy new head bolts. Machine shop charged $400 to mill, clean, and put new valve seals in.
Your information that you put out about the thickness of head gasket to use is completely false. The only way to check what thickness head gasket you need. 1-Clean top of engine block and piston. 2-Put each cylinder at TDC. 3-Use a straight edge and measure your piston height from block to straight edge. Depending on what kind of gap you have determines what head gasket to us or to tear further into the engine.
A lot of people who put head studs in opt for the thicker gasket because of the added clamping force might compress the heads down too close for comfort.
Lee Cazier a head gasket will only crush so much. Installing head studs or head bolts you will only crush the head gasket so much. The reason behind studs, they are less likely to stretch when applying more than pressure from upgraded injectors and turbos. Every engine is only designed to put out and handle so much. Once you start changing parts and to get more power, you need studs to handle the power output. You should also upgrade the head gasket.Again factory parts are only designed to handle the factory power output.
There are so many videos out there of back yard DIY guys working on there own truck. Nothing wrong with that but they usually have to much talk. That is not knowledgeable. It’s nice to see a professional. Telling a little bit of the pro tricks and proper Technical steps. To help the DIY guys make less mistakes. Great job on that video. Very helpful. I have been a heavy duty equipment/truck mechanic for 30 plus years. I’m not familiar much with the Dmax mechanicals. Simply because I have not had the call to work on those light duty engines. I just acquired an 06 GMC 3500 LBZ. So it’s interesting to see the insiders view. That way I can plan what I want to do to mine.
Thanks man! I appreciate the kind words and feedback👍🏻
Great video Kyle. I learned quite a bit from this one. I'm getting to be pretty good on the Powerstrokes, but am still learning on the Duramax. Thanks for the teaching!! 👍👍
I work for Cummins and we use a factory tool when running overhead that gives you very consistent results, It's a 6in-lb T-handle torque wrench (cummins part number 3376592) it's got a 1/4 drive end that you can put whatever adapter needed to match up with the adjuster, most of our stuff uses a 5mm allen adjuster screw.
Interesting to hear things like this...where you might not know a certain tool exists unless you worked on a specific brand of motor. That's cool Bryan, thanks for sharing.
*DURAMAX is an AWESOME engine and by far the best!!!*
You ever heard of the Cummins?
@@mikeaustin1788 No one cares....👌
I know there are only slight differences between a Duramax and a LA360, but I really enjoyed replacing the heads on my car! Didn't have to lift the body either! Great educational video Kyle!
I did that to my Lb7 back in 2017 its very time consuming never worked on diesel before just gas engines, it all started with
filling up at diesel station that contained free water in their underground tank. It busted three injectors plus one of the seals on
the high pressure pump which led to diesel leaking into the oil system. I had to tear it all the way down due to Lb7 injectors are inside
the valve cover. Once there I had the cylinder heads rebuilt. All brand new MA injectors, new water pump from MA , also a fuel air separation
system from air dog and got rid of that OEM useless water catcher and filter. he he. still going strong 165k miles on it.
I wish this video would've been out then it would've taken me a lot less time to complete the job. Instead of a month and a half I probable would have
done it in a week
Will totally be worth it. Going to be exciting to see dyno numbers whenever that day comes. Godspeed Kyle.
Just bought me another duramax. 2013 lml and guess what the head gaskets are bad. Looks like another fun couple weekends. Sad part is the rad hoses are soft coolant tank is clean only time it pushes coolant out is under load. Dealer had it cleaned up so nice didn’t see the coolant in the fender until I got home.
Hello Kyle, Thanks for the video..... I had a runaway on my 06 LLY today and it believe I bent a couple pushrods. I'm also going to be doing ARP head studs, etc. Thanks again and it was great meeting you down at Mark and Ryan's place this summer at the truck show on that Friday evening.
Awesome video !!! Can't wait for the transmission build video and the first start.
As a automotive machinist with Duramax heads they are very bad about valve guides wearing bad. In order to fix that you put a bronze guid liner in and it will never wear. Also grinding the valves and curing the seats and making sure the recession is in spec.
On the forged push rods, can you tel me what brand they are and part # please
Great video man. Lots of good to know info:) Very curious did you end up increasing the rpm/redline of your LBZ after all these upgrades? Also curious what kind of paint you used for your intake? Might paint mine too while they are off.
Thanks for the info I was wondering how you adjusted the backlash sequence, now I'm a machnic ,lol
Best on CZcams BIG THANKS!
Great video could have used this when I did my heads and studs a few years ago. I did it with the cab on and yes lots of small steps too get things to come together.
When you did yours with the cab on were you able to install the studs and then install the head onto the studs? Or set the head in place and thread the studs through the head?
Had to put the back studs in the head then place the head on the block after that you can drop the remaining studs in. Same for removing old head bolts.
@@lcazier619 I wonder why shops don't do this . Instead of charging 36 to 40 hours of labor .
Good info thanks for sharing . 👍
My head gasket didn’t leak but I did a tear down to rebuild, don’t think I’ll need a head decking for that reason but I’m going to ask a pro anyways.
Awesome video cant wait to see the dirtymaxx to be done an hitting the road
do you need those dowels for the rocker arm assembly? I put mine together without them seems to run fine?
Thanks for the video very clear to understand what your doing. 👍👍👍
Love the video ! Thanks for sharing.
what is the average cost to do the head gasket on a lly?
How much should this job run? 06 Silverado 2500 6.6L. I'm getting different quotes from 3-6K to 11K. Great content.
I just got my lb7 back together after a head gasket job, they put new valve seals in at the machine shop but I didn’t know I was supposed to buy new springs, the old ones will be fine won’t they?
Great video as always Kyle
Awesome man thanks for the video
Awesome video learned so much today??
How much did the machine shop charge you for the head work?
Good informational video Kyle
What about checking valve spring pressure being equal across all intake and all exhaust springs pressures equal?
Generally I’d say to do that but in my case I used all new springs and just kept them all equal
Great video, earned a new subscriber!
Nice job! Awesome shop.
what ??? you did not use sand paper on a wood block to sand away the deck surface like Ryan Diesel Repair will do ???
Great video!
Just wondering why you didn't port and polish the intake and exhaust ports on the head? I've heard that you can pick up quite a bit of HP just from doing that alone!
Because I don’t have the experience to do so and not one single machine shop here locally would touch a Duramax head to do that kind of job.🤷♂️
@@RustbeltMechanic wow I wonder why nobody will machine them?! I figured most engine machine shops would do that.. I have done some research on gasket matching and polishing and you can pick up noticable HP by just removing, transitioning and smoothing your intake, exhaust ports and turbo pedestal with a grinder and sand paper! I'm doing my EGR delete, CP3 conversion, and WCfab Y-Bridge and intake install on my 2013 LML this week and am going to clean up what I can. Depending on how things go, I might pull the turbo and clean it up some. It seems pretty straight forward just time consuming
Is your lbz a early one ? Some of the early ones had crimped gasket
Found a bent head bolt, what does that mean??
How does your shop let you do this? My shop won’t let us work on our own cars due to ‘liability”.... I’m jealous
Great video
Good job man!
How long do machine shops typically take??
Are the valve seals exhaust and intake specific?
Awesome vid 👌😎
Is the valve adjustment the same for the socal AF cam?
The spec of the same but you’d need to follow the firing order of that specific cam.
Hi Kyle. I haven't kept up with the build but, I was wondering if you went with a 3388AF cam or something similar?
Negative, did not go with any alternate fire cam. Wanted to see what the stock block, rotating assembly and cam would hold. Still holding strong with Appx 750 HP with compound turbos
@@RustbeltMechanic awesome! I have a '13 LML and I wanna run a RDS 64. Gunning for 650 whp and don't wanna hurt the motor.
Oh yeah, I run his 64/66 high flow vane turbo in the valley with an s475 on top
Makes me feel a LOT better about my set-up. Thanks for your time brother, appreciate your work.
Ok what if when putting in time it has a catch to it
Be sure you aren’t 180 degrees out
Did you put gasket sealer on the head gaskets
No, had the heads slightly decked and used the head gaskets only
hey man i hope you can help me i have asked so many people and no one can give me an answer i have a 2006 gmc lbz duramax and i want to install a oil temp gauge and there are a lot of ports on the oil heat exchanger could you help me out please with one is the hot side (pre cooler ') any help would be great
So I have done some looking into this one myself. I haven’t personally done this yet but plan on making a video about it when I get the part and the time. From my research the port on the top of the cooler with the larger 10mm Allen plug is the hottest point (pre-cooler) to get a reading at. Hope that helps.
Rustbelt Mechanic thank you that helps a lot I really hope you do a video on it if you tell me what gauge you would like I would be more than happy to donate one to your channel I work for a parts store because there is not one video on CZcams for a oil temp so I think you would be helping out quite a few people so just let me know if I can help
I would actually get the edge temp probe 98608 with their universal sensor input system since I just put in an Insight CTS2.
Do it!!
For this?
How much for this type of job?
A lot....lol not really sure because I wasn’t going for time on it but if I had to guess about 5 grand for this part of the build
evan hale, I did my own, took about a month lol working an hour or two at a time. The shops wanted $6000 to just put in head gaskets, my old 03 isn’t worth much more than that lol so I bought the Haynes book and watched a ton of videos. Got it running again last week, I’ve never attempted anything mechanical besides brakes and oil changes, if I can do it anyone can. Just take tons of pictures and label everything. I’ve got about $1,500 in the job but I put in a new water pump and cp3 fuel pump while it was apart and of course you have to buy new head bolts. Machine shop charged $400 to mill, clean, and put new valve seals in.
Your information that you put out about the thickness of head gasket to use is completely false. The only way to check what thickness head gasket you need.
1-Clean top of engine block and piston.
2-Put each cylinder at TDC.
3-Use a straight edge and measure your piston height from block to straight edge.
Depending on what kind of gap you have determines what head gasket to us or to tear further into the engine.
He didn’t deck the block, just the head. So this doesn’t make any sense. Deck height isn’t a wear item.
A lot of people who put head studs in opt for the thicker gasket because of the added clamping force might compress the heads down too close for comfort.
Lee Cazier a head gasket will only crush so much. Installing head studs or head bolts you will only crush the head gasket so much. The reason behind studs, they are less likely to stretch when applying more than pressure from upgraded injectors and turbos. Every engine is only designed to put out and handle so much. Once you start changing parts and to get more power, you need studs to handle the power output. You should also upgrade the head gasket.Again factory parts are only designed to handle the factory power output.
.012 millimeters ?
Dmax guy Lynn Strayer lol yeah, words that day didn’t work so well, it’s .011” or .279mm