Nice job apreacate the knowledge. I've just started getting into all this much helped by the discovery of a Colchester lathe in the garage underneath years of car parts a full size lathe ! Great discovery if you are trying to build a gun. Knowledge to use it I'm still finding mostly from generous ppl like yourself. 👍
That is a very good find sir. I had a chance to buy one a few years ago and kick myself for not. If you’re looking for good info on running a lathe I’d definitely check out Joe Pie and This Old Tony. I leaned a ton from them.
#The Gun Medic Thankyou for the reply great instructional video you helped me already the lathe had a lot of other chuck's tools & other various attachments in the cupboards underneath i mostly had no idea about but after watching your video I now know what the tri pronged tool is, it's for holding the barrel in its correct position. Now I know what it is & how to use it which is very serendipitous as I'm just about at the stage when this tool will be needed. Thankyou Sir great videos you should make more if you find the time you are no doubt a busy gentleman. Have a great one Greetings from England.
The Gun Medic Thankyou for the recommendations I've watched some old Tony great content but I'll look them both up concentrating more on their lathe content. Apreacate the knowledge :)
Nice video. I myself purchased a Smithy a number of years ago in hopes of doing some gunsmithing. I took a correspondence course. I just have never had the confidence to even do my own guns and never have used it for threading a barrel. I just left one off to have done. I do use my Smithy occasionally to make things or do modifications on various things. I did find your video pretty spot on. I do work on my guns with trigger jobs and building AR's but just still don't trust myself on the precision machining. More power to all those that do.
I watched a video of a guy on youtube once that had a tube setup about 10” long which had 4 square head bolts around the end and 4 more around 6” from that around the circumference. He used it like chucks to center the barrel bore with a rod like you had stuck inside the barrel to true it up. It worked great as well.
Yes, that fixture is known as a “cat’s head”. Don’t know why, odd name. I’ve often thought about build one. They don’t hold quite as securely as my set up, but they do have their advantages. They’re great for doing work on Rem 700 bolts and pistol barrels. Thank for watching and for the comment!
use brass tips on your live center. Crown is most important part of barrel for accuracy. Steel on steel will destroy crown. Available from Brownells, MidWay etc.
If your into the cad world model some shims for your 2" bore with a slight offset roll the piece around to find center of the bore. 3d print some shims for the majority of barrells you work on that are to short and use your 4 jaw like usual. Thanks for sharing there are several ways of getting the job done.
Hey thanks for the tip. I dabbled briefly with CAD when I had my CNC. I need to take a class to get more comfortable with it. I recently totally solved my issue by investing in fixture from www.viperbenchrest.com I works for holding everything from short barrels to rifle bolts.
I've been doing hobby gunsmithing for many years and have been using all of these methods to turn barrels. Grizzly carries spindle adapters to mount a #3 MT dead center to the headstock (even the oddball taper that Rockwell lathes use). All of the methods that are presented in this video can be used. But; how do you chamber a barrel when it's too short to fit between the spider and the chuck? What I do in these situations is to turn the barrel blank between centers using a face plate and center + dog with what's going to become the breech end of the barrel on the faceplate end, and a live center in the tailstock at what's going to become the muzzle end of the barrel. I turn about 4 or 5 inches on the muzzle end of the blank. All I'm doing here is making a short section on the outside of the barrel concentric with the bore of the barrel, and not removing much material. After this is done I change out the faceplate for a four jaw chuck and put the muzzle end of the barrel (the end that I just turned some material off of so that it's concentric with the bore) into the 4 jaw. I leave around 2" of that freshly turned surface exposed in front of the chuck jaws. Install a steady rest on the lathe with the "breech" end of the barrel passing through it. You can use the live center in the tailstock to get the breech end of the barrel mostly lined up. Then install a gauge pin into the bore on the breech end. You can use a dial indicator to zero the breech end by measuring off of the gauge pin, and set the zero on the 4 jaw end by indicating off of the surface that you just turned. You can then turn and thread the barrel shank, chamber the barrel, and turn the section of the barrel that's going to be ahead of the shoulder, all while the axis of the bore is concentric with the axis of the lathe spindle. When you reverse the barrel in the lathe and start contouring the barrel, the section that you cut on the muzzle end to measure off of gets turned off as you reduce the barrel's diameter.
I made a treaded spider to thread through the center of my face plate. I can fit and chamber a barrel as short as 21" if a barrel is shorter than that I use an action trueing jig to center barrel in.
I wonder if that little bit of runout could be due to Cerakote thickness? Might it be more accurate to setup before Cerakote on bare metal with the rest?
I was looking for a video on rifle barrel lathe cleaning. Is cleaning part of your set up process in order to assure accuracy? It's not like you can use a surface grinder afterward.
For the third method to be even semi-reliable, you would need to machine a band for the steady to run whilst the bore was held between centres. This steady band could be on a collar/sleeve secured to the barrel at the appropriate spot also, so you don't have to machine the barrel material itself. Indicating as at the end is poor practice. Using exaggeration to explain the theory why, the barrel could be tilted up in the air by five degrees relative to the axis of the lathe, but because it is running between two fixed points, the collet and the steady, you will always get a pretty much null reading. Few ways around this. Using a gage pin with zero play in the lands and sticking a couple or three inches out the muzzle, indicate in two positions till you run zero at BOTH, in this example tweaking the steady rest (running on the aforementioned steady band) to get the pin running co-AXIAL. That means it would run zero at a location right next to the muzzle PLUS run zero a couple inches out at the end of the gage pin. Another way achieving the same idea is using a long-stylus test indicator, again allowing you to dial zero at the muzzle PLUS dial zero a couple inches back inside the bore. In the case of the test indicator you will see a jump down into each groove but coming back up to zero on the lands as you rotate. Heck, it probably gives you an excuse to buy more tools, woohoo😀🤡 Gerard🤙
I'm considering getting into this as a hobbyist. What is the minimum size of lathe you would recommend for basic barrel chambering and threading work? Would something like a PM 1030 be sufficient? Thanks
You’d probably be ok with a 10x30 like that as long as the spindle bore is around 1.5” wide. Spindle bore ID is honestly one of the more important factors. I would also recommend you spend the extra $250-$300 and purchase the Viper Chambering Fixture. This is a crucial pieces of equipment if you ever have to work on a barrel under 24” long. It’ll happen, trust me. All your friends will be like, “Hey can you thread my barrel??” Most lathes don’t have a short enough head stock to do barrel work through the head stock if the barrel is under 24”… thus the reason for my video. Really miss my old South Bend Heavy 10… Anyway, hope that was helpful, and thanks for watching.
Go for a 12 x 36 at the smallest size. Grizzly makes good equipment for this kind of stuff. You'll find that the lathe is a pretty handy tool for other stuff.
Thanks for the video! What is the benefit of using the collet rather than a 4-jaw chuck? Is it only the time saved centering that end, or are there additional benefits I'm not considering?
The main reason I use the collet method is if have a barrel under 24” long I need to work on. My lathe spindle is 17” or 18” long. With the chuck depth that puts me at 21.5”-22” total. If a barrel is under 24” I do not have adequate material to grip and safely work on when I choose to pass the barrel through the spindle. The other reason is it’s very difficult to properly hold the chamber end in a 4 jaw and properly indicate it into concentricity with the bore. I know the barrel tenon is concentric with the bore. I’m not able to easily confirm the OD of the barrel is though. Most of the time the barrel OD is definitely not concentric with the bore. Thus the collet method is a pretty good choice. I think I explain all that in the video. Can’t remember though.
I appreciate the reply! Yes, you explained well why you were unable to put the barrel through the headstock and work the end, and that the barrel OD may not be concentric with the bore. But since the you've found the barrel extension to be concentric enough to grab with a collet, I didn't understand why not just grab it with a 4 jaw. I guess the answer may be that the barrel extension is not long enough to get a dial indicator on while holding in a 4-jaw, so you would be left to indicating the barrel OD which may not be concentric.
So do you think you could build a gun on one of the small PM 12x28VF large bore lathe's. I know its not much rigidity when comparing to a larger one but taking it slow and small cuts if you did everything by a lot less is it possible, Even chambering a barrel. I'm also talking about the hobbyist that wants to do it him self just for fun.
Yes, it’s possible. I have a buddy who uses a lathe he got at Harbor Freight. You just have to learn to work within the limitations of your machine. I bet you could do some decent work with that PM machine.
I have some aluminum flat stock I got at the local hardware. I formed it around the jaws so they stay in place. I’d eventually like to make a set of slip over type pads with a piece of brass or aluminum round bar between the jaw and the work. Give better range of motion.
Nice video, I’m in Indiana also. Build some 2x4 shelves above the lathe, screw into the studs on your OSB wall. Get your tooling off the floor. YT has many chambering video’s, some great knowledge. I love drive Dog’s and real Dogs. Oh yea! Clean that rust off your 4-jaw. 😂
So I'm a little confused. It looks like you chucked up the range rod in you chuck and you have the other end in the barrel which essentially cause it to in theory free float in the barrel bore.. Are you trying to show the amount of out of round by how much the inside touches the range rod as it spins the lathe head or lathe chuck around? Or am I missing that the chuck was turned in not touching the range rod and it just need to go through the chuck center for room so you back it off and the range rod is spinning as you turn the lathe.
The range rod has a bushing on the end that snuggly fits the bore. It’ll pretty accurately show any deflection off center as I rotate the barrel around. That allows me to indicate off the bore more easily
Could not agree more. There are a lot of “insider” things about machining I’m still learning. What good brands are and where to get them is one of those things. I try to operate within my means, but jump on good deals when I find them (case in point my new multifix tool post). When I’m able I think I’m going to go back to an older clausing or Southbend lathe as well. I like this Grizzly, but I’d like something a little heavier duty and more substantial.
@@Jmastffp l have 6 atlas,,,now clausing,, 2 12 x 36 with quick change gear boxes and pretty much all attachments,,, and I have 3, 618 6 inch and a 109 all attachments for them also,, l restore them,, bought them cheap before realized that vintage is still the best way to buy, unless your rich,,lol,, I'll sell them when prices level off,,, there bringing 3 times what I paid,, and I only bought good ones with little spindle run out and hardly any way wear..
@@mr.noneyabidness l don't think you can beat them for the price many bad mouth the zmak gears but of all my lathes only 2 gears show wear and the quick change gears are steel,, most newer compromal have plastic gears anyway, sure you can't go as deep of cuts with the atlas but you can't with any lathes of same size, hey they have proven the test of time,, good luck with yours
The short answer is yes. You could use a collet for this application as long as you have one of the proper size. The one thing you would need to do first is make sure you had at least one end turned true to the bore of the barrel. To do this you’d need to first run the barrel between centers, or use a dial indicator in the bore along with a 4 jaw chuck and outboard spider. Once you have a surface squared to the bore established, you’re home free. I rebarreled a Savage action in 50AE using that method and it worked great. The main reason I prefer the collet method is it’s much faster to switch between the muzzle and chamber ends once you have your square end established to hold in your collet
By the way. If you’re planning to use a steady rest you’ll need to also turn a journal surface for it ride on. I never trust that the OD of a barrel blank is square to the bore. Thus all the prep prior to using my collet chuck and steady rest
You could do it between centers. But, you’d probably be better off using something called a “cat’s head” in a four jaw chuck. A cat’s head is essentially a tube with 2 sets of 4 bolts that allow you to dial a tube shaped part into concentricity. It’s like having 2 four jaw chucks running in tandem.
I do not have the know how for rifling just yet. There are several good videos out there that cover making your own cut rifling machine though. You can also buy a button and use a bearing press if you’re just doing a pistol barrel. Check out Mark Serdu’s video about it
There are also videos of button rifling. You drill a long through a rod. Then press the button through. Think of a self tapping screw, except all you need to do it push it through and it turns itself, basically smashing the rifling into the bore.
Thanks! Yes, I like my Grizz. It’s a good lathe. There are some things I wish were different, like the head stock length, but it does everything I need it to. I’ve owned several Southbends. They’re awesome, but it’s tough to do metric threads on them. This one has everything I could potentially need, and it’s single phase (so it’s easy to power). If I ever switch I’ll go back to an SB or try a clausing.
Unless you have the trunnion removed I’m going to say yes. You could hold hold the trunnion in a 4 jaw chuck and the barrel in a steady rest with a live center. Or, run it between centers.
Concerning you titanium barrel question. Blackthorn (shotgun maker) in England has a good CZcams video about an over under they built with titanium barrels. It was pretty amazing.
You can tell it's a grizzly, the rust is already setting in. They have good equipment, but damn.... It rusts way too much. I have a whole shop of Everything from that company and not one piece didn't rust.
You make several valid points. I have used feeler gauges in the past with the steady rest. Because I’m always looking for ways to speed the process up a little where I can, I’ve found that wrapping the barrel in painters tape is acceptable. Speaking of acceptable, I’m looking to achieve 0.0005” runout or less. This setup with a live center achieves that or less and is consistently repeatable. Also, it’s provided consistent, reliable accuracy from the weapons out to 750 yards. You’re right, a dead center would be more accurate and I could make my own. I’ve simply chosen not to because what I’m doing is working perfectly fine. When it stops working fine. I’ll make appropriate changes. I appreciate your comments. Gives me more to consider for the future
@@Jmastffp l just never had good luck with ball bearing centers and steady rests,,,but mine aren't high dollar either,, I've learned if you want precision you have to pay up,, just payed 3 times more for a Miller plasma cutter and the results have proven why they cost more,,, and my lathes are all vintage and still better than the new ones.
Yes, I’m aware. Believe I meant the lathe has been around for thousands of years. I think firearms only go back to around the 14 or 1500’s. I’ll have to look that one up though
Nobody in their right mind would cerakote before doing machine work. However, a customer may send me a job after the fact, or have a change order or add on after I’ve applied coating.
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Thank you! This is great. I appreciate the total explanation and not cutting away with installations as I am a newbie.
Anytime sir. Glad this helped you out. If you have any more questions feel free to e-mail me at mastgunworks@gmail.com
Nice job apreacate the knowledge. I've just started getting into all this much helped by the discovery of a Colchester lathe in the garage underneath years of car parts a full size lathe ! Great discovery if you are trying to build a gun. Knowledge to use it I'm still finding mostly from generous ppl like yourself. 👍
That is a very good find sir. I had a chance to buy one a few years ago and kick myself for not. If you’re looking for good info on running a lathe I’d definitely check out Joe Pie and This Old Tony. I leaned a ton from them.
#The Gun Medic Thankyou for the reply great instructional video you helped me already the lathe had a lot of other chuck's tools & other various attachments in the cupboards underneath i mostly had no idea about but after watching your video I now know what the tri pronged tool is, it's for holding the barrel in its correct position. Now I know what it is & how to use it which is very serendipitous as I'm just about at the stage when this tool will be needed. Thankyou Sir great videos you should make more if you find the time you are no doubt a busy gentleman. Have a great one Greetings from England.
The Gun Medic Thankyou for the recommendations I've watched some old Tony great content but I'll look them both up concentrating more on their lathe content.
Apreacate the knowledge :)
Nice video. I myself purchased a Smithy a number of years ago in hopes of doing some gunsmithing. I took a correspondence course. I just have never had the confidence to even do my own guns and never have used it for threading a barrel. I just left one off to have done. I do use my Smithy occasionally to make things or do modifications on various things. I did find your video pretty spot on. I do work on my guns with trigger jobs and building AR's but just still don't trust myself on the precision machining. More power to all those that do.
Thanks for taking the time to share this !
Hey my pleasure. I actually just got a new fixture for my lathe. I’m working on pushing out an update video on this very subject
I watched a video of a guy on youtube once that had a tube setup about 10” long which had 4 square head bolts around the end and 4 more around 6” from that around the circumference. He used it like chucks to center the barrel bore with a rod like you had stuck inside the barrel to true it up. It worked great as well.
Yes, that fixture is known as a “cat’s head”. Don’t know why, odd name. I’ve often thought about build one. They don’t hold quite as securely as my set up, but they do have their advantages. They’re great for doing work on Rem 700 bolts and pistol barrels. Thank for watching and for the comment!
use brass tips on your live center. Crown is most important part of barrel for accuracy. Steel on steel will destroy crown. Available from Brownells, MidWay etc.
You are correct. Thanks for pointing that out
This is true but also dependent on if you are going to cut and recrown anyways afterward
Thanks Things I haven t thought of before
If your into the cad world model some shims for your 2" bore with a slight offset roll the piece around to find center of the bore. 3d print some shims for the majority of barrells you work on that are to short and use your 4 jaw like usual.
Thanks for sharing there are several ways of getting the job done.
Hey thanks for the tip. I dabbled briefly with CAD when I had my CNC. I need to take a class to get more comfortable with it. I recently totally solved my issue by investing in fixture from www.viperbenchrest.com
I works for holding everything from short barrels to rifle bolts.
I've been doing hobby gunsmithing for many years and have been using all of these methods to turn barrels. Grizzly carries spindle adapters to mount a #3 MT dead center to the headstock (even the oddball taper that Rockwell lathes use). All of the methods that are presented in this video can be used. But; how do you chamber a barrel when it's too short to fit between the spider and the chuck? What I do in these situations is to turn the barrel blank between centers using a face plate and center + dog with what's going to become the breech end of the barrel on the faceplate end, and a live center in the tailstock at what's going to become the muzzle end of the barrel. I turn about 4 or 5 inches on the muzzle end of the blank. All I'm doing here is making a short section on the outside of the barrel concentric with the bore of the barrel, and not removing much material. After this is done I change out the faceplate for a four jaw chuck and put the muzzle end of the barrel (the end that I just turned some material off of so that it's concentric with the bore) into the 4 jaw. I leave around 2" of that freshly turned surface exposed in front of the chuck jaws. Install a steady rest on the lathe with the "breech" end of the barrel passing through it. You can use the live center in the tailstock to get the breech end of the barrel mostly lined up. Then install a gauge pin into the bore on the breech end. You can use a dial indicator to zero the breech end by measuring off of the gauge pin, and set the zero on the 4 jaw end by indicating off of the surface that you just turned. You can then turn and thread the barrel shank, chamber the barrel, and turn the section of the barrel that's going to be ahead of the shoulder, all while the axis of the bore is concentric with the axis of the lathe spindle. When you reverse the barrel in the lathe and start contouring the barrel, the section that you cut on the muzzle end to measure off of gets turned off as you reduce the barrel's diameter.
😊
I made a treaded spider to thread through the center of my face plate. I can fit and chamber a barrel as short as 21" if a barrel is shorter than that I use an action trueing jig to center barrel in.
I’ve been wanting to do that. Just haven’t yet. I noticed the brand South Bend Heavy 10’s have that feature worked into them from the factory
I wonder if that little bit of runout could be due to Cerakote thickness? Might it be more accurate to setup before Cerakote on bare metal with the rest?
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Muchas gracias. Lo siento. Yo hablo y leo poquito español.
Yeah! Very decent video, thank you so much for sharing, I appreciate it. Haha, that workshop waters my teeth like a green grizzly's... wow!
I was looking for a video on rifle barrel lathe cleaning. Is cleaning part of your set up process in order to assure accuracy? It's not like you can use a surface grinder afterward.
For the third method to be even semi-reliable, you would need to machine a band for the steady to run whilst the bore was held between centres. This steady band could be on a collar/sleeve secured to the barrel at the appropriate spot also, so you don't have to machine the barrel material itself.
Indicating as at the end is poor practice.
Using exaggeration to explain the theory why, the barrel could be tilted up in the air by five degrees relative to the axis of the lathe, but because it is running between two fixed points, the collet and the steady, you will always get a pretty much null reading.
Few ways around this. Using a gage pin with zero play in the lands and sticking a couple or three inches out the muzzle, indicate in two positions till you run zero at BOTH, in this example tweaking the steady rest (running on the aforementioned steady band) to get the pin running co-AXIAL. That means it would run zero at a location right next to the muzzle PLUS run zero a couple inches out at the end of the gage pin.
Another way achieving the same idea is using a long-stylus test indicator, again allowing you to dial zero at the muzzle PLUS dial zero a couple inches back inside the bore. In the case of the test indicator you will see a jump down into each groove but coming back up to zero on the lands as you rotate.
Heck, it probably gives you an excuse to buy more tools, woohoo😀🤡
Gerard🤙
I'm considering getting into this as a hobbyist. What is the minimum size of lathe you would recommend for basic barrel chambering and threading work? Would something like a PM 1030 be sufficient?
Thanks
You’d probably be ok with a 10x30 like that as long as the spindle bore is around 1.5” wide. Spindle bore ID is honestly one of the more important factors. I would also recommend you spend the extra $250-$300 and purchase the Viper Chambering Fixture. This is a crucial pieces of equipment if you ever have to work on a barrel under 24” long. It’ll happen, trust me. All your friends will be like, “Hey can you thread my barrel??” Most lathes don’t have a short enough head stock to do barrel work through the head stock if the barrel is under 24”… thus the reason for my video. Really miss my old South Bend Heavy 10… Anyway, hope that was helpful, and thanks for watching.
Go for a 12 x 36 at the smallest size. Grizzly makes good equipment for this kind of stuff. You'll find that the lathe is a pretty handy tool for other stuff.
Thanks for the video! What is the benefit of using the collet rather than a 4-jaw chuck? Is it only the time saved centering that end, or are there additional benefits I'm not considering?
The main reason I use the collet method is if have a barrel under 24” long I need to work on. My lathe spindle is 17” or 18” long. With the chuck depth that puts me at 21.5”-22” total. If a barrel is under 24” I do not have adequate material to grip and safely work on when I choose to pass the barrel through the spindle. The other reason is it’s very difficult to properly hold the chamber end in a 4 jaw and properly indicate it into concentricity with the bore. I know the barrel tenon is concentric with the bore. I’m not able to easily confirm the OD of the barrel is though. Most of the time the barrel OD is definitely not concentric with the bore. Thus the collet method is a pretty good choice. I think I explain all that in the video. Can’t remember though.
I appreciate the reply! Yes, you explained well why you were unable to put the barrel through the headstock and work the end, and that the barrel OD may not be concentric with the bore. But since the you've found the barrel extension to be concentric enough to grab with a collet, I didn't understand why not just grab it with a 4 jaw. I guess the answer may be that the barrel extension is not long enough to get a dial indicator on while holding in a 4-jaw, so you would be left to indicating the barrel OD which may not be concentric.
@@nickp8062 yes, that’s correct about the 4 jaw and the barrel extension.
So do you think you could build a gun on one of the small PM 12x28VF large bore lathe's. I know its not much rigidity when comparing to a larger one but taking it slow and small cuts if you did everything by a lot less is it possible, Even chambering a barrel. I'm also talking about the hobbyist that wants to do it him self just for fun.
Yes, it’s possible. I have a buddy who uses a lathe he got at Harbor Freight. You just have to learn to work within the limitations of your machine. I bet you could do some decent work with that PM machine.
For a gun barrel I would use a more true dead center with lube
how many millimeters you lathes spindle bore ?
What do you use to shim around the barrel when you have the jaws on?
I have some aluminum flat stock I got at the local hardware. I formed it around the jaws so they stay in place. I’d eventually like to make a set of slip over type pads with a piece of brass or aluminum round bar between the jaw and the work. Give better range of motion.
Nice video, I’m in Indiana also. Build some 2x4 shelves above the lathe, screw into the studs on your OSB wall. Get your tooling off the floor. YT has many chambering video’s, some great knowledge. I love drive Dog’s and real Dogs. Oh yea! Clean that rust off your 4-jaw. 😂
So I'm a little confused. It looks like you chucked up the range rod in you chuck and you have the other end in the barrel which essentially cause it to in theory free float in the barrel bore.. Are you trying to show the amount of out of round by how much the inside touches the range rod as it spins the lathe head or lathe chuck around? Or am I missing that the chuck was turned in not touching the range rod and it just need to go through the chuck center for room so you back it off and the range rod is spinning as you turn the lathe.
The range rod has a bushing on the end that snuggly fits the bore. It’ll pretty accurately show any deflection off center as I rotate the barrel around. That allows me to indicate off the bore more easily
Steady rest should have oil clearance between the rollers and only turn from the oil itself. Not spin without it,,a thousands feeler gauage space.
Could not agree more. There are a lot of “insider” things about machining I’m still learning. What good brands are and where to get them is one of those things. I try to operate within my means, but jump on good deals when I find them (case in point my new multifix tool post). When I’m able I think I’m going to go back to an older clausing or Southbend lathe as well. I like this Grizzly, but I’d like something a little heavier duty and more substantial.
@@Jmastffp l have 6 atlas,,,now clausing,, 2 12 x 36 with quick change gear boxes and pretty much all attachments,,, and I have 3, 618 6 inch and a 109 all attachments for them also,, l restore them,, bought them cheap before realized that vintage is still the best way to buy, unless your rich,,lol,, I'll sell them when prices level off,,, there bringing 3 times what I paid,, and I only bought good ones with little spindle run out and hardly any way wear..
@@georgespangler1517 I have an Atlas 12" commercial. I love it!
@@mr.noneyabidness l don't think you can beat them for the price many bad mouth the zmak gears but of all my lathes only 2 gears show wear and the quick change gears are steel,, most newer compromal have plastic gears anyway, sure you can't go as deep of cuts with the atlas but you can't with any lathes of same size, hey they have proven the test of time,, good luck with yours
@@georgespangler1517 you too sir
If using a 1” bull barrel. Could you chamber and cut action threads using a collet?
The short answer is yes. You could use a collet for this application as long as you have one of the proper size. The one thing you would need to do first is make sure you had at least one end turned true to the bore of the barrel. To do this you’d need to first run the barrel between centers, or use a dial indicator in the bore along with a 4 jaw chuck and outboard spider. Once you have a surface squared to the bore established, you’re home free. I rebarreled a Savage action in 50AE using that method and it worked great. The main reason I prefer the collet method is it’s much faster to switch between the muzzle and chamber ends once you have your square end established to hold in your collet
By the way. If you’re planning to use a steady rest you’ll need to also turn a journal surface for it ride on. I never trust that the OD of a barrel blank is square to the bore. Thus all the prep prior to using my collet chuck and steady rest
How would you setup a pistol barrel like a 1911 barrel to thread?
You could do it between centers. But, you’d probably be better off using something called a “cat’s head” in a four jaw chuck. A cat’s head is essentially a tube with 2 sets of 4 bolts that allow you to dial a tube shaped part into concentricity. It’s like having 2 four jaw chucks running in tandem.
@@MastGunWorks
Thanks for the reply and idea I now know exactly how I am going to make the cats head thanks!
If you can do rifling I'd be interested to see that
I do not have the know how for rifling just yet. There are several good videos out there that cover making your own cut rifling machine though. You can also buy a button and use a bearing press if you’re just doing a pistol barrel. Check out Mark Serdu’s video about it
There are also videos of button rifling. You drill a long through a rod. Then press the button through. Think of a self tapping screw, except all you need to do it push it through and it turns itself, basically smashing the rifling into the bore.
Nice lathe,how do you like it and Grizzly in general. Good video.
Thanks! Yes, I like my Grizz. It’s a good lathe. There are some things I wish were different, like the head stock length, but it does everything I need it to. I’ve owned several Southbends. They’re awesome, but it’s tough to do metric threads on them. This one has everything I could potentially need, and it’s single phase (so it’s easy to power). If I ever switch I’ll go back to an SB or try a clausing.
Hey guy, you have a lathe... you can make any tool you need, including any centers you need. Armature...
Looking to make AK barrels for suppressors. This seems to be the best way to do it
Unless you have the trunnion removed I’m going to say yes. You could hold hold the trunnion in a 4 jaw chuck and the barrel in a steady rest with a live center. Or, run it between centers.
Um, that rusty chuck would take only a couple minutes to clean up, so why leave it looking rusty and crusty?
I wouldn’t say it’s been done that way for “thousands” of years lol, what part of Indiana you from I couldn’t make it out, southern Indiana here.
North Central. I’m north of Indy about an hour. I’ve got family in Southern Indiana
What tool post are you useing?
In this video I believe I had a multifix. Loved it, but ultimately opted to go back to an Aloris BXA size.
can you use barrel made from titanium ?
As far a strength is concerned I wouldn’t see why not. I can’t imagine that would be very easy to rifle though
Concerning you titanium barrel question. Blackthorn (shotgun maker) in England has a good CZcams video about an over under they built with titanium barrels. It was pretty amazing.
whats you lathe name?
Currently she is nameless… but I’m open to creative suggestions 😁
First lathe was made in 1700s,, that's 300 years not thousands, just messing with you,, and why I don't make vedios,,
You should remove your wedding ring if your wife Minds show a picture of somebody that's had their finger degloved or taken off
"degloved"
You can tell it's a grizzly, the rust is already setting in. They have good equipment, but damn.... It rusts way too much. I have a whole shop of Everything from that company and not one piece didn't rust.
Nothing wrong with your methods, you need to organize your shop better, leaving stuff on the floors is dangerous.
This issue has since been taken care of. I appreciate you pointing that out though
So you have a lathe, make your own centers
You make several valid points. I have used feeler gauges in the past with the steady rest. Because I’m always looking for ways to speed the process up a little where I can, I’ve found that wrapping the barrel in painters tape is acceptable. Speaking of acceptable, I’m looking to achieve 0.0005” runout or less. This setup with a live center achieves that or less and is consistently repeatable. Also, it’s provided consistent, reliable accuracy from the weapons out to 750 yards. You’re right, a dead center would be more accurate and I could make my own. I’ve simply chosen not to because what I’m doing is working perfectly fine. When it stops working fine. I’ll make appropriate changes. I appreciate your comments. Gives me more to consider for the future
@@Jmastffp l just never had good luck with ball bearing centers and steady rests,,,but mine aren't high dollar either,, I've learned if you want precision you have to pay up,, just payed 3 times more for a Miller plasma cutter and the results have proven why they cost more,,, and my lathes are all vintage and still better than the new ones.
thousands of years? you know guns have only been around a few hundred right?
Yes, I’m aware. Believe I meant the lathe has been around for thousands of years. I think firearms only go back to around the 14 or 1500’s. I’ll have to look that one up though
Why eould anyone cerakote before doing final machining. Walmart school of gunsmithing.
Nobody in their right mind would cerakote before doing machine work. However, a customer may send me a job after the fact, or have a change order or add on after I’ve applied coating.
Clean up your lathe
Now why would I want to remove all that beautiful patina 😂
Jesus Christ that’s the worst looking Chuck I’ve ever seen.. I wonder if the rest of your tools are all rusted up.
Not really sure our Lord and Savior cares how my chuck looks 😜
The Gospel of your salvation.
1 Corinthians 15 1-4.
Moreover, brethren, I declare unto you the gospel which I preached unto you, which also ye have received, and wherein ye stand;
2 By which also ye are saved, if ye keep in memory what I preached unto you, unless ye have believed in vain.
3 For I delivered unto you first of all that which I also received, how that Christ died for our sins according to the scriptures;
4 And that he was buried, and that he rose again the third day according to the scriptures;
Believe on the Lord Jesus Christ and you shall be saved. For without his shed BLOOD theirs no remission of sins. Dont trust in your works, for they're works of a sinner. But believe that his work on the cross was sufficient for all sins. And that he was raised for your justification.
Take the gospel or leave it, you have been shown it. It's entirely up to you. As this may be the only chance you ever get, and are therefore held accountable for knowing the gospel, by the Lord in that day. Believe, or dont. This is your decision
Apostle Paul… good choice. Thank you for sharing