Whole Home Steam humidifier HVAC review… watch before you buy! 🤔
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- čas přidán 15. 01. 2024
- One of the most common questions we get asked about humidifiers is whether we recommend a steam humidifier or a bypass whole home humidifier. The truth is that it depends on your needs and goals, and there isn't a one size fits all solution. In this video we review a Steam humidifier - The Aprilaire 500 / 600 - and provide some feedback about how they work, and why you would want to opt for this type of humidifier over a bypass humidifier system. In the event you'd like to purchase one, the links are provided below for your convenience.
Link to Steam Humidifier on Amazon - AprilAire 800:
amzn.to/41FLGRN
#commissionsearned #hvac #humidifer #furnace
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For my clients, I automatically build in an AprilAire 700 Automatic which has the digital Model 60 humidistat. I also have them set to run all year. I default all systems to run on "Constant circulation" 24/7 and dial the humidity run 40-45%. I rarely run a bypass or the the 800 because the 700 is good for all size homes and has it's own fan built-in. Great system and easy install.
Right on, curious do you install those on the supply or return? I’ve never installed the fan powered because I’ve felt the bypass works better with hot air blowing across the water panel compared to room temp air, and steam is more work for sure but works well because it’s introducing water already in vapor form.
@@TheHVACDopeShow
I do my best to install them on the return but it can be install on either. The water line is hooked to the hot side of the water heater with a stainless steel line. So the fan is blowing across full temp hot water into the air stream. I have install dozens of all the AprilAire models including bypass and steam.
In my opinion, there is no comparison. Changing the water pad depends on the water quality in the home. I usually install at least a sediment filter but many opt for the three filter system and water softener. This way the pads and system doesn’t get clogged up with sediment.
If you use the OAT sensor and run it on the direct suggestion settings, it won’t exceed 42-45%, unless you click off the override.
I found after this many installs, it’s the best option by far. I like the digital Model 60 stat. I don’t use their water line or piercing valves either. I install a 1/4 turn valve plus a Sharkbite T on the hot side of the copper line coming from the water heater.
People love it for their skin, sinuses no dust, hardwood floors, pianos and furniture are not dried out. I found steam causes rust issues at various places. Bypass in comparison doesn’t work as well either. But again these are my findings after testing many models and brands.
I tossed my bypass because it made very little difference in Illinois. I went with the Aprilaire 801 which comes with a modulating humidistat. This was a bit overkill and created an installation nightmare with my two zone system. I'm a DIYer and have a relentless pursuit in figure new stuff out. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself. We have very hard water in my location at 148 PPM (mg/L) or 8 gpg. I have an ice maker filter installed before the unit and this has cut down my canister replacements. I now use two canisters per season. When one is in use, the other is filled up with vinegar to soak with flashing tape used on both ends to prevent leakage. I then flush it out several times to remove sediment buildup then reuse. This isn't fun but I save money in the long run. Everything about this unit is expensive and I feel it's worth it. I also flush the unit out after each day by turning it off manually. Sometimes the flushed water is bright red from the rust or other garbage. I plan to install a 240v whip with an outlet. I will install a timer so that the unit flushes automatically each day. The indoor humidity in my 3000 square foot house is set to 48.
I would look at some sort of filtration. Technically hard water is “better” for steam in that it makes the water more conductive for steam production, but it does have the side effects you’re experiencing. That seems like an excessive amount of maintenance. If you look at any of the sealed “softeners” or whole house filters that might reduce some of what you have in your water it would probably reduce that Maintenace. Even a sediment prefer sounds like it would go a long way. Are you on a well?
Thanks for this review! I’ve been searching CZcams for solutions to keep indoor humidity at decently consistent levels. I live in NC, so most would suggest installing a de-humidifier, however in the colder months it can get uncomfortably dry inside. With all the smart home tech coming out, I’m not sure why I’m not seeing any practical methods of keeping humidity levels on autopilot. If one exists, I’d love to see a how-to or review video.
Thanks! Yeah you have to have either a dehumidifier or humidifier or both, although both is rare. Technically your AC dehumidifies the air, but your furnace or heat pump will dry it. If you install a humidifier like the AprilAire steam it will have a humidistat that is “set and forget” and will turn itself off and on accordingly.
Thank you for this video. Have you had any installs where you had to add a knock arrestor to the Aprilaire? When the unit cycles to add water to the steam "pot" for lack of a better word, there is a noticeable knock which I would like to stop or diminish. Any insight would be appreciated. Tom
Yes, I have this at my house lol I don’t mind it so I left it… short answer is ISO pads. We’ve mounted the unit on isopods because the clicking between the wall stops this. Also hammer arrestors (they’re like shock absorbers) can go on the water line somewhere to help with this. It’s most commonly knocking because the pipes are banging / shutting off flow abruptly and the noise travels through the framing, or through the plumbing, or both. The arrestor and iso pads should fix this or make it tolerable
@@TheHVACDopeShow Ok. Thank you. Arrestor should be an easier install. Shut off Aprilaire. Shut off the water supply. Drain the Aprilaire. Remove the water feed line, install the arrestor inline. Reverse the above. For the ISO pads I would need to do much of the above plus remove the unit so I can add the iso pads.
I live in Florida, so we generally have high humidity outdoors, but our AC units pull the water out of the air dying things out to 38%-48%. This is comfortable for us, but we are running commercial printers that seem to function best when humidity levels are in the 60%-80% /temperatures between 72-77 degrees. Are there units that can achieve those humidity levels effectively and consistently?
It’s just the dehumidification settings on the AC… for a commercial application like this you may have to modify how things operate, or keep the temp higher to keep higher humidity, or add makeup air from the outdoors…
Is it necessary to have a UV light installed as well when doing this?
No, the uv light or any air purification is an optional upgrade if that’s important to you. It will work well with or without it
I have 4300 sq feet space, but I have two furnaces and two ACs (upstairs and downstairs) Two bypass humidifiers work perfectly. Two steam humidifiers wouldn't make sense.
Sounds right to me, and I agree two steam would probably be overkill. I have seen them struggle on a 5600’ house with 1 steam system but I think it was just because of how dry it is (normal humidity in the area is around 15-17% and the humidifier was able to get up to about 25% RH)