You'll know this Tinman but others might not, when weighing and comparing pistons weigh the whole assembly, piston, wrist pin, rings, small end and circlips cos it all goes up and down, I found the best way to reduce the combined weight was to "countersink" the ends of the wrist pin, it doesn't affect the piston integrity by removing weight from the wrong places (which is easy to do when you're starting out with engine mods) plus you don't need to remove as much metal, steel is 3 times heavier than aluminium. It doesn't really affect the strength of the wrist pin either as the main stress points are either side of the small end bearing where it's under shear stress.
I put two $30 (USD) top ends on my Neotec 660 clones quite a while ago. They are rough, I had to sand the edges off the ports to be safe, but guess what, they run!
I just can’t do the China saw parts thing, or clone saws. I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for. How can a fella put a China top end on a legendary saw such as a 266. They deserve better.
I threw my clone saw in the garbage, I quickly realized China cylinders are junk......that's why they call for Heavy oil mixtures, to compensate for the crappy chrome lining, just to get compression to operate....it's not "my opinion", it's Fact.....you DO get what you pay for........Maybe if you're Joe Blow doing yard work you won't notice....but people who ACTUALLY push their saws and Bury them constantly, it ain't gonna last.
I would have said that you got what you paid for 20 years ago… and it’s definitely true in some areas… but modern chainsaw’s aren’t one of those things anymore because both the major manufacturers have been using carburetor’s that have been being made in China since the 1980’s and after actually just learned about what the Stihl corporation has been doing and has done to the Oregon Company just recently I’m just not really interested in ever spending another dime on a Stihl product myself!!! They have basically been just paying Oregon what it’s costing them to manufacture their parts for the past 7 years or so…they were actually able to find out that information from a very weak management team and they only paid cost… because of that huge volume of parts that weak management team thought that it was a positive because they were able to produce their parts and they were keeping the doors open and the lights on so their workers would continue to have a job and be able to feed their families… well that’s all changed and all you Stihl fanboys who have really talked all that crap about how those Chinese clutches and rim driver’s and clutch drums suck… we’ll that’s what you are going to be getting on your new Stihl saw’s and those will be your replacement parts very soon!!! LMFFAO! Just a little heads up to all you really fantastic guy’s who love our saw’s! Buy everything that you are ever going to want for your clutch’s and the Oregon part’s for your saw’s because they might get picked up by a larger conglomerate… or they might just padlock the doors very soon???
@@DaveyBlue32 it’s not always about country of origin, as long as proper quality control is in place. Problem is most if not all of the “less expensive” products made in China have very poor quality control. This business with Stihl and Oregon is news to me, what’s going on exactly?
@@eurokid83 the Stihl corp. notified the Oregon corp that they are going to be going in a different direction and they will not be renewing their contact with Oregon and they are sourcing those parts from their China operations… one of the Oregon managers or production leaders was who shared the information and he also shared some of that insider info about how the upper management at his company had basically killed his company by not having enough balls to make Stihl actually pay them for the parts and that because they had basically just been breaking even on the huge percentage of their production that they were in bad shape financially and they were kinda telling those guy’s that they were probably not going to have their job unless they get lucky and they are picked up by a conglomerate but even if they are lucky and they aren’t just closed down that because of that huge amount of business leaving that the majority of their workers will be out of their job! So he was pissed and broke the news… he is a 25 or more year employee who obviously really loved his company and his job and was very upset about getting that news… so those clutch’s and drivers that you need on those older model’s that we have and run I mean I don’t ever buy any saw bar’s or many other parts that are Oregon… I’ll definitely buy a couple rolls of chain in my two sizes so that I’ll have loops until I’m retired… and I’m going to grab a few clutch assemblies for the saw’s I run often for work… and I’m definitely going to grab a bulk order of those general items for the 372’s , 390’s and 395’s and those couple of Stihl models that I use… so that I don’t get stuck with a Chinese metal clutch or rim driver… I have built several Farmertec kits and I always install the Oregon clutch and drivers after several bad experience’s… I’d definitely have to assume that they have been planning to make this move for several years and they have built a factory or they have setup their supply chain of manufacturers in China already…. So it’s not like they aren’t going to have a clutch but it’s definitely not going to be the same great quality part in the future like we’ve come to expect from both companies and hopefully someone like Electrolux will absorb their manufacturing and keep those factories working and just can that weak management team… ??? I can’t believe that there’s not enough demand still to continue to produce their parts… probably going to be a good price jump and on those Stihl parts those older units don’t have a patent issue but the newer models or those in the past 10 years are not going to be able to be produced by Oregon without a significant cost to buy the rights so they will jump significantly in their price point… when you are really hearing more and more people upset that another American company is going under… job losses… but I wasn’t a board member… so I know enough about economics that you can’t run without any profit very long because your business is going to require maintenance and machinery investment…
@@eurokid83 and you really do need to give up something when you are buying a part at a 1/4 of the cost of the OEM parts you’ll need to do something or whatever but they just can’t be the same or as good for that price point… Personally I’ve been using the cheap aftermarket parts for 15 years or so and I enjoy the finishing process work so I have really enjoyed saving the money by doing that work myself.., 👍😁
I'd be curious, if you cleaned up and tweaked that cheapo top end, installed it in an experimental saw, broke it in, and let her rip through a few cords, and tore it down, we could all see what kind of things went on inside the cylinder. The quality of the metal is probably inferior as well, which you might detect while grinding on it. You're almost at 40K subscribers1 Thanks for all the shared content, ...take'r easy.
Always appreciate that you're willing to be realistic and work with aftermarket stuff. Pretty easy for a project to pass the price of a new saw if you're sticking to OEM.
That's some rough cylinder. I mostly buy aftermarket (noname) cylinders, but I never received a rough one like that. OEM cylinders are off limits for the kind of saws and customers that I have.
Thanks Tinman! Interesting evaluation of the aftermarket top ends. Hopefully I won't be needing one for a while on my old 371XP, but I started using it a lot lately for felling (east coast weenie trees, LOL!). 22 years later she still has full machining wisible on the cylinder!
Yeah man! That’s exactly why I always build my new Husqvarna 372 series saw’s in the single ring piston…371 style instead of the double ring piston with it’s little bit of additional power comes a big leap up in the heat during it’s operation and it’s not getting that cooling and fantastic wash of new fuel charge with every stroke of the piston and cylinder wall lubrication is greatly improved with the single ring groove!!!
I have used aftermarket cyl/pistons (Farmertec etc) with varying degrees of success. The pistons I have found to be ok to use, the cylinders generally need cleaned up and I have found some of their ports are not the same as OEM as in the port shape. I have a Hyway 026 cyl/piston on my bench and the cyl ports needs work to bring it to the oem shape but to do that would upset the timing, the ports are too flat and may catch a ring. I have used a copper washer on the decomp plug to bring the end of the decomp out of the cylinder as the hole was drilled too deep, the spark plug hole was drilled in a slightly different place into the combustion chamber and now has a sharp edge on the edge of the combustion chamber.
I have had good luck with aftermarket cylinders and better popup pistons. But inspect them well. Just had a MS390 that the intake had to be ground open to match the intake boot.
I just put in a Warhawk combo from HSLproparts. It was on sale for $49.99. The fit and finish was as good as OEM and the saw runs better than new over heating is now not a problem.
I have never had an issue with Adolfo after market parts. They seem to take some pride in their craftsmanship. I guess time will tell but so far so good at a quarter if the price. They do need a bit of touch up but nothing major. Good video. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
I bought an Amazon top end for my ms260. Nothing really wrong with it, but after I found out that i could remove the aluminum gunk out of the OEM cylinder I did, bought a meteor piston and it was noticeably better than the chinesium. The compression was much better and it felt a bit stronger in the wood. Now I have a chinese spare top end if I ever need it🤷
I bought a no name one like this before for a Stihl 021/MS210 for a free saw with a scored cylinder...it was garbage, but did run well enough. This was the only time that I'd gone this way,and I learned my lesson. I have saved a lot of OEM cylinders in the past and the one time I tried an aftermarket "straight gassed" cylinder salvage it wouldn't work,I found the plating to be very thin and very soft...absolute junk! As far as pistons go, I've used a couple aftermarket unmarked with good results.
If I can't find or don't want to spend the $$$ for an oem top end, I've always tried to make my way through the sea of cheeeap chinesium and get something that's hopefully better. Hyway and meteor have treated me well so far. Have yet to try bottom of the barrel p&c kits and definitely don't plan on it now! Thanks for sharing!!
Interesting discussion on the pistons and cylinders. Thanks I have a couple of 2100s to rebuild, and I may have what I need, but if I need the pistons and cylinders, I'll know where to go. I have already inquired, and they ship USPS, so I can avoid the brokerage charges that make me so angry.
I’m going to soak in all the 372xp content. My first top end was a 345, my first bottom end was 50/51 now I’m ready to tackle some bigger saw builds. Your channel has definitely helped me out. Thank you!
Something nobody talks about is availability of cylinder kits, just had to wait for 6 weeks to get a oem 661 cylinder. When I order from Wolf Creek I get my order in like 5 days or less.
Speaking of cheap, have you ever tried putting transfer or exhaust port ramps on the pistons crown rather than grind cylinders in order to try out different port timings? It's just that pistons are cheap and easier to modify. Just a thought for one of your 372 builds.
That changes a lot of variables, instead of adjusting timing ( also adjusting dynamic compression in some cases) you adjust the chamber volume. Grinding a ramp is effectively a dish. I’m still curious nonetheless. Interesting point
Howdy friend! I recently started soaking my old crusty carb diaphragms in trans slip stop with seal rejuvenator. I was considering making a video on it because it works so good. If it’s something you want to try and share go for it! You would help a lot more people with this trick then I would👍
Good idea. How long do you soak them for? I wonder if regular transmission fluid would work if you soaked it for longer. EDIT: I just subscribed to your channel. Why don't you go ahead and make that video for us? I'm super cheap and have some garbage pile cheap 2 cycle equipment that I picked up that I don't want to spend the $8 on for carb kits for. Haha. It would be much appreciated.
I'm stewing this over in my head now... Does it work on the diaphragms that are "pooched" in? It seems that if it rejuvenated them they would still be "pooched". No?
@@steamboatmcg2197 it doesn’t seem to take more then a couple days. Honestly I just did it on a whim and it seems to make them ply able again. Haha I’m no good on camera but I like to help people out. Someone with more passion for this would do a much better job
@@steamboatmcg2197 I didn’t even try the one I tried this on. I had a good diaphragm on hand and swapped it out n let that crusty one soak. Give it a go and let us know if it worked for you
@@shapeshifter7753 I don't have transmission stop slip on hand but I have high mileage transmission fluid that I put in lawn mower tires to stop leaks and use to rejuvenate o rings, I never thought about diaphragms but will give it a try. Thanks.
Edit in: Then of course, there is after the after market market LOL I wonder, if you put that in a vibratory tumbler with some small ceramic media for a day if it would polish up. Would want to protect the bore itself with masking but the rest maybe could be improved well enough. The issue on OEM had always been wear, once the die wears past a tolerance the OEM likes, those dies are sold off to the aftermarket for use. Now the issue is the APPLE disease of embedding components that tell the computer "hey I'm OEM" and not telling the aftermarket this, so the aftermarket part goes in the computer makes the entire system run bad until the poor owner calls the dealer who says "OH MYY oh my my my, you didnt put an aftermarket part in did you?". Yes aftermarket 'fit and finish' may be off, that has never been an issue, it's the current round of "designed to fail" that is.
Thinking of buying a 372xp clone and putting a nice top end on it like a hyway big bore pop up top end on it. Any thoughts. I am going to clean it up any casting marks polish the exhaust not too much gasket delete ...
Clone saws....I remember MY first beer. Then I finally quit being a cheapass and got a Real saw and felt SO stupid wasting my money on copycat garbage.
After market cylinders are all dodgy and a must to avoid . The piston and ring clearances are excessive and transfer ports are usually not chamfered . Dont waste ur money .
I love how you stretch the limits by doing stuff like this that's meaningful for us regular guys!👍
You'll know this Tinman but others might not, when weighing and comparing pistons weigh the whole assembly, piston, wrist pin, rings, small end and circlips cos it all goes up and down, I found the best way to reduce the combined weight was to "countersink" the ends of the wrist pin, it doesn't affect the piston integrity by removing weight from the wrong places (which is easy to do when you're starting out with engine mods) plus you don't need to remove as much metal, steel is 3 times heavier than aluminium. It doesn't really affect the strength of the wrist pin either as the main stress points are either side of the small end bearing where it's under shear stress.
I put two $30 (USD) top ends on my Neotec 660 clones quite a while ago. They are rough, I had to sand the edges off the ports to be safe, but guess what, they run!
I just can’t do the China saw parts thing, or clone saws. I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for. How can a fella put a China top end on a legendary saw such as a 266. They deserve better.
I threw my clone saw in the garbage, I quickly realized China cylinders are junk......that's why they call for Heavy oil mixtures, to compensate for the crappy chrome lining, just to get compression to operate....it's not "my opinion", it's Fact.....you DO get what you pay for........Maybe if you're Joe Blow doing yard work you won't notice....but people who ACTUALLY push their saws and Bury them constantly, it ain't gonna last.
I would have said that you got what you paid for 20 years ago… and it’s definitely true in some areas… but modern chainsaw’s aren’t one of those things anymore because both the major manufacturers have been using carburetor’s that have been being made in China since the 1980’s and after actually just learned about what the Stihl corporation has been doing and has done to the Oregon Company just recently I’m just not really interested in ever spending another dime on a Stihl product myself!!! They have basically been just paying Oregon what it’s costing them to manufacture their parts for the past 7 years or so…they were actually able to find out that information from a very weak management team and they only paid cost… because of that huge volume of parts that weak management team thought that it was a positive because they were able to produce their parts and they were keeping the doors open and the lights on so their workers would continue to have a job and be able to feed their families… well that’s all changed and all you Stihl fanboys who have really talked all that crap about how those Chinese clutches and rim driver’s and clutch drums suck… we’ll that’s what you are going to be getting on your new Stihl saw’s and those will be your replacement parts very soon!!! LMFFAO! Just a little heads up to all you really fantastic guy’s who love our saw’s! Buy everything that you are ever going to want for your clutch’s and the Oregon part’s for your saw’s because they might get picked up by a larger conglomerate… or they might just padlock the doors very soon???
@@DaveyBlue32 it’s not always about country of origin, as long as proper quality control is in place. Problem is most if not all of the “less expensive” products made in China have very poor quality control. This business with Stihl and Oregon is news to me, what’s going on exactly?
@@eurokid83 the Stihl corp. notified the Oregon corp that they are going to be going in a different direction and they will not be renewing their contact with Oregon and they are sourcing those parts from their China operations… one of the Oregon managers or production leaders was who shared the information and he also shared some of that insider info about how the upper management at his company had basically killed his company by not having enough balls to make Stihl actually pay them for the parts and that because they had basically just been breaking even on the huge percentage of their production that they were in bad shape financially and they were kinda telling those guy’s that they were probably not going to have their job unless they get lucky and they are picked up by a conglomerate but even if they are lucky and they aren’t just closed down that because of that huge amount of business leaving that the majority of their workers will be out of their job! So he was pissed and broke the news… he is a 25 or more year employee who obviously really loved his company and his job and was very upset about getting that news… so those clutch’s and drivers that you need on those older model’s that we have and run I mean I don’t ever buy any saw bar’s or many other parts that are Oregon… I’ll definitely buy a couple rolls of chain in my two sizes so that I’ll have loops until I’m retired… and I’m going to grab a few clutch assemblies for the saw’s I run often for work… and I’m definitely going to grab a bulk order of those general items for the 372’s , 390’s and 395’s and those couple of Stihl models that I use… so that I don’t get stuck with a Chinese metal clutch or rim driver… I have built several Farmertec kits and I always install the Oregon clutch and drivers after several bad experience’s… I’d definitely have to assume that they have been planning to make this move for several years and they have built a factory or they have setup their supply chain of manufacturers in China already…. So it’s not like they aren’t going to have a clutch but it’s definitely not going to be the same great quality part in the future like we’ve come to expect from both companies and hopefully someone like Electrolux will absorb their manufacturing and keep those factories working and just can that weak management team… ??? I can’t believe that there’s not enough demand still to continue to produce their parts… probably going to be a good price jump and on those Stihl parts those older units don’t have a patent issue but the newer models or those in the past 10 years are not going to be able to be produced by Oregon without a significant cost to buy the rights so they will jump significantly in their price point… when you are really hearing more and more people upset that another American company is going under… job losses… but I wasn’t a board member… so I know enough about economics that you can’t run without any profit very long because your business is going to require maintenance and machinery investment…
@@eurokid83 and you really do need to give up something when you are buying a part at a 1/4 of the cost of the OEM parts you’ll need to do something or whatever but they just can’t be the same or as good for that price point… Personally I’ve been using the cheap aftermarket parts for 15 years or so and I enjoy the finishing process work so I have really enjoyed saving the money by doing that work myself.., 👍😁
I'd be curious, if you cleaned up and tweaked that cheapo top end, installed it in an experimental saw, broke it in, and let her rip through a few cords, and tore it down, we could all see what kind of things went on inside the cylinder. The quality of the metal is probably inferior as well, which you might detect while grinding on it. You're almost at 40K subscribers1 Thanks for all the shared content, ...take'r easy.
Always appreciate that you're willing to be realistic and work with aftermarket stuff. Pretty easy for a project to pass the price of a new saw if you're sticking to OEM.
Thanks for the information Tinman. Good work.
Great content Tinman. Thanks for doing this work. It’s entertaining and educational.
Can't wait for the finished product 👍
Chinese stuff works great for me, but I only cut 20 cords of firewood each year. If I made a living with a chainsaw, might be different.
Thanks for the info! You an the family take care! Hope the little one is doing well!
That's some rough cylinder. I mostly buy aftermarket (noname) cylinders, but I never received a rough one like that. OEM cylinders are off limits for the kind of saws and customers that I have.
"OEM cylinders are off limits for the kind of saws and customers that I have." Haha. That's hilarious and relatable.
hi tinman ,thank you for the advice on the needle bearing ,you are a gentleman,peace an love from scotland stu.
Great job on the video Tinman 👍👍😎. Best chain saw channel on CZcams. Learning so much from you 😁
Pat from nw Wisconsin
Great Info Tinman Thanks For This Video 😀😊
Very informative, thanks buddy✊
Thanks Tinman! Interesting evaluation of the aftermarket top ends. Hopefully I won't be needing one for a while on my old 371XP, but I started using it a lot lately for felling (east coast weenie trees, LOL!). 22 years later she still has full machining wisible on the cylinder!
Yeah man! That’s exactly why I always build my new Husqvarna 372 series saw’s in the single ring piston…371 style instead of the double ring piston with it’s little bit of additional power comes a big leap up in the heat during it’s operation and it’s not getting that cooling and fantastic wash of new fuel charge with every stroke of the piston and cylinder wall lubrication is greatly improved with the single ring groove!!!
I have used one of the Farmertech big bore kits, 10 tanks through it, and still running strong.
Thanks Tinman, nice comparison of a cheap cylinder to higher end ones, looking coward to the next video!
I have used aftermarket cyl/pistons (Farmertec etc) with varying degrees of success. The pistons I have found to be ok to use, the cylinders generally need cleaned up and I have found some of their ports are not the same as OEM as in the port shape. I have a Hyway 026 cyl/piston on my bench and the cyl ports needs work to bring it to the oem shape but to do that would upset the timing, the ports are too flat and may catch a ring. I have used a copper washer on the decomp plug to bring the end of the decomp out of the cylinder as the hole was drilled too deep, the spark plug hole was drilled in a slightly different place into the combustion chamber and now has a sharp edge on the edge of the combustion chamber.
I have had good luck with aftermarket cylinders and better popup pistons. But inspect them well. Just had a MS390 that the intake had to be ground open to match the intake boot.
Almost 40 thousand!! Yahh tin man! Great hanging out with you as always
Thanks for hanging out Michel.
Tinman!! Great video! Now you should time the two and see the difference in timing numbers.
I just put in a Warhawk combo from HSLproparts. It was on sale for $49.99. The fit and finish was as good as OEM and the saw runs better than new over heating is now not a problem.
Nice RIPSAW touqe Tinman. Cheers man. 🍻
Thanks Tinman for the info on AV spring removal, many thanks Paul SHEPPARD
My pleasure buddy!! I once asked that question years ago.
I have never had an issue with Adolfo after market parts. They seem to take some pride in their craftsmanship. I guess time will tell but so far so good at a quarter if the price. They do need a bit of touch up but nothing major. Good video. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
I bought an Amazon top end for my ms260. Nothing really wrong with it, but after I found out that i could remove the aluminum gunk out of the OEM cylinder I did, bought a meteor piston and it was noticeably better than the chinesium. The compression was much better and it felt a bit stronger in the wood. Now I have a chinese spare top end if I ever need it🤷
i tried one of those $30 top end kits!! it was horrible!! the ports were razor sharp!! got a hiway from wolf creek and couldn't be happier!!
I bought a no name one like this before for a Stihl 021/MS210 for a free saw with a scored cylinder...it was garbage, but did run well enough. This was the only time that I'd gone this way,and I learned my lesson. I have saved a lot of OEM cylinders in the past and the one time I tried an aftermarket "straight gassed" cylinder salvage it wouldn't work,I found the plating to be very thin and very soft...absolute junk! As far as pistons go, I've used a couple aftermarket unmarked with good results.
If I can't find or don't want to spend the $$$ for an oem top end, I've always tried to make my way through the sea of cheeeap chinesium and get something that's hopefully better. Hyway and meteor have treated me well so far. Have yet to try bottom of the barrel p&c kits and definitely don't plan on it now!
Thanks for sharing!!
Interesting discussion on the pistons and cylinders. Thanks I have a couple of 2100s to rebuild, and I may have what I need, but if I need the pistons and cylinders, I'll know where to go. I have already inquired, and they ship USPS, so I can avoid the brokerage charges that make me so angry.
Dayum that's one cool paperweight
Thanks learned a lot as usual. What did the better quality parts costs. Bills come first so looking for too deals.
I’m going to soak in all the 372xp content. My first top end was a 345, my first bottom end was 50/51 now I’m ready to tackle some bigger saw builds. Your channel has definitely helped me out. Thank you!
Tinman! Looking forward to watching your journey with this chainsaw!
Hey Chucky
Hey! Nice!
For those who need to save money, the cheaper top ends with a little work put into them can keep them going until they can afford better.
Put 'er on a saw and run'er
build that sh!t boss! we want to see what happens with a full after-market build because none of us can afford OEM bits!!
Something nobody talks about is availability of cylinder kits, just had to wait for 6 weeks to get a oem 661 cylinder. When I order from Wolf Creek I get my order in like 5 days or less.
That seems to be the story of oem parts across the board, wether it be chainsaws are cars or whatever.
Sounds like a warhawk!
Clean it up. Port it. Run it. Lets see how long it lasts!
Goin on 6 years w $20 cylinder, it did need the ports champhered but i was grinding it anyway n playin around so $20 well spent..
Learning is good tinman thanks I'm cheap
tinman that was well worth having a look at those cheap cylinders,not for me i think peace an love from scotland stu.
I had a stihl ms441 with after market no name top end from amazon lasted 20 minutes lol
Thanks TIN MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've seen a clip embedded in a cylinder wall
40,000 SUBS COMING UP
For the 550xp, it's either the $300 oem or $30 no name.
Hi tinman I bought a 266 and watching your posts it has good compression and managed to get spark but it starts and cuts out?
Speaking of cheap, have you ever tried putting transfer or exhaust port ramps on the pistons crown rather than grind cylinders in order to try out different port timings? It's just that pistons are cheap and easier to modify. Just a thought for one of your 372 builds.
That changes a lot of variables, instead of adjusting timing ( also adjusting dynamic compression in some cases) you adjust the chamber volume. Grinding a ramp is effectively a dish. I’m still curious nonetheless. Interesting point
Howdy friend! I recently started soaking my old crusty carb diaphragms in trans slip stop with seal rejuvenator. I was considering making a video on it because it works so good. If it’s something you want to try and share go for it! You would help a lot more people with this trick then I would👍
Good idea. How long do you soak them for? I wonder if regular transmission fluid would work if you soaked it for longer.
EDIT: I just subscribed to your channel. Why don't you go ahead and make that video for us? I'm super cheap and have some garbage pile cheap 2 cycle equipment that I picked up that I don't want to spend the $8 on for carb kits for. Haha. It would be much appreciated.
I'm stewing this over in my head now... Does it work on the diaphragms that are "pooched" in? It seems that if it rejuvenated them they would still be "pooched". No?
@@steamboatmcg2197 it doesn’t seem to take more then a couple days. Honestly I just did it on a whim and it seems to make them ply able again. Haha I’m no good on camera but I like to help people out. Someone with more passion for this would do a much better job
@@steamboatmcg2197 I didn’t even try the one I tried this on. I had a good diaphragm on hand and swapped it out n let that crusty one soak. Give it a go and let us know if it worked for you
@@shapeshifter7753 I don't have transmission stop slip on hand but I have high mileage transmission fluid that I put in lawn mower tires to stop leaks and use to rejuvenate o rings, I never thought about diaphragms but will give it a try. Thanks.
Wonder how long they would hold up for the average homeowner compared to a logger.
Edit in: Then of course, there is after the after market market LOL I wonder, if you put that in a vibratory tumbler with some small ceramic media for a day if it would polish up. Would want to protect the bore itself with masking but the rest maybe could be improved well enough. The issue on OEM had always been wear, once the die wears past a tolerance the OEM likes, those dies are sold off to the aftermarket for use. Now the issue is the APPLE disease of embedding components that tell the computer "hey I'm OEM" and not telling the aftermarket this, so the aftermarket part goes in the computer makes the entire system run bad until the poor owner calls the dealer who says "OH MYY oh my my my, you didnt put an aftermarket part in did you?". Yes aftermarket 'fit and finish' may be off, that has never been an issue, it's the current round of "designed to fail" that is.
Thinking of buying a 372xp clone and putting a nice top end on it like a hyway big bore pop up top end on it. Any thoughts. I am going to clean it up any casting marks polish the exhaust not too much gasket delete ...
That a nice one 😊😢
Gun and roses ya
Have any 371xp crank cases
🙂👍
If you look at the oem parts box you will see made in China. The only difference is price.
Produk mana itu bro. Apa cylinder 372 bisa di pasang di mesin 365 bro
Clone saws....I remember MY first beer. Then I finally quit being a cheapass and got a Real saw and felt SO stupid wasting my money on copycat garbage.
The ear definitely is a messed up design ive lost two to a ear off a clip
if your board you better grind a bit on the cheapy first i got one from hiway that wasn't a hiway and it had crap numbers so there's that
I'll stick with Hyway , you get what you pay for !
hey guy
Ah so, man of tin. You get what you pay for. Question : what is your thought on ceramic coated pistons????
THE FIRST NO NAME PISTON LOOKS LIKE ITS COKE CAN THIN COMPARED TO THE HIGHWAY🤣🤣🤣NICE COMPARISON
Oh she's thin alright.
After market cylinders are all dodgy and a must to avoid . The piston and ring clearances are excessive and transfer ports are usually not chamfered . Dont waste ur money .
Bottom of the barrel Chinese scrap.