Absolutely the best I've found on you tube!! Thank you!! To add 3 weeks later, this vid helped me narrow down the no-spark issue I had on a Chinese youth ATV I acquired. It had a bad CDI box.
Excellent video & very well explained. After trying everything for 2 weeks your video helped me discover the problem in minutes. The pickup gap had simply become too large, so I bent it down as close as I could and it works perfect now. TIP: when replacing the stator make sure to set the gap right! I replaced it and had the same problem because the gap was still too large. Thank you very much!
Great job on video! I would recommend using a peak adapter for dynamic testing of pulsar and CDI. More accurate readings. DVOM will provide inaccurate information leading to unnecessary repairs.
Very helpful video. It helped me a lot. I had a bad connection in de green cable that I overlooked. The situation was that I had a unrestricted CDI that was working and an original, restricted CDI that was not working. My first conclusion was that the original CDI was defect but when I bought another one it had the same issue. The difference is that the unrestricted has a short circuit between ground and the sensor that is on the clutch to measure the speed. The sensor is a coil so the unrestricted did work because it used the ground through the coil. The restricted CDI has no short circuit between the speed coil pin and the ground pin so it did not work. When I watched the video I located the white connector with the green cable (ground) and it just fell apart. I soldered the green ground cable and all was good! All CDI’s work correctly now. Thx 4 the video.
thanks guy ,you just helped me fix my 150cc kazuma ATV in afew min,first one I messed with and I ck the gap on the reluctor and it was wayyyyyy off and rusty.it would fire here and there and sometime it wouldn't start at all a hit and mis.but now I cleaned it and set it with a cc it fires everytime.thanks
Yea! I think you are correct. I tried it on a good pickup today. you need at least 4 to 6 volts for noid lite. also looks like we are dealing with micro amps for current. Thanks for the reply!
Dude you saved the day again, i was checking according to this video and i noticed there was no ground to the CDI, this is a honda 100cc horizontal engine, ohm readings in this one are very similar to yours Thanks
Thank you for the help, the stator was exactly my problem. I had replaced the ignition coil, spark plug, and CDI internal circuitry until I watched this video. Learning how to check the stator was crucial. I found my stator was the problem, ordered a replacement from Amazon and that worked. Kids are off again terrorizing my neighborhood in their go-kart. Thank-you so much!
This is a great video, succinct and to the point. I always start with cleaning up grounds so I know my other numbers are good but this is my first time dealing with exciter coils and pickup coils (magnetos). Keep up the great work!
Good video - most of what he went over I knew but it was interesting to see what values he was seeing voltage wise. I have a 2001 Yamaha ATV that will sometimes die - and typically backfire when it does. After 10 or 15 minutes it will normally start back up. I could not find anywhere what the voltages should be on the output of the pickup coil - or the input voltage to the CDI - or even how to really measure them. So I looked at the signals with an oscilliscope - this might be useful info for some . For the input voltage from the stator - that pretty much a sine wave (at least from my stator) so the VOM meter should read that pretty accurately. The pickup voltage it will not - it is not a sine wave - not even close. If you *know* what a VOM reading should read for a given engine - even though it not actually correct - that fine - it can be useful as a comparison. I did not have that info. The scope shows a +11VDC peak - goes to zero for a bit - than a -11VDC peak - goes back to zero for a bit. For a complete cycle the wave form is at zero voltage for perhaps 30 or 40 percent of the time. It no wonder a VOM will give no reading or very low reading on that type of non-sine wave. You can get a much more accurate reading if you connect a "Voltage Peak Reading Adapter" - VPA - to your meter - rmstator has one - on Amazon - it pricey - $50 - but you can also find that kind of adaptor for half of that easily on ebay. It converts a voltage (to DC) to closer to what the peak voltage is. For me the plus and minus 11V signal displays on my VOM (with the VPA in series) as 5.5VDC (cranking), 9VDC (idle), and 15VDC at hi RPM. You can also use the VDA and find a useful "baseline" voltage for the signal from the CDI to the coil. The oscilliscope shows a very short duration pulse from +5VDC to -12.5 - to fire the plug. A VOM by itself would not capture that pulse. Using the VPA with a VOM I got 2.5VDC cranking, 2.36VDC at idle, and 3.1VDC at hi RPM. RMSTATOR has a pretty detail troubleshoot guide using a VPA. I may have found my problem - may be the stator. Both 49ccscoot VOM reading for the stator voltage to the CDI input and what Rmstator says in their troubleshooting flowchart is WAY above what I'm seeing. Using just a VOM (the VPA is not really needed since what you are measuring it a sine way) I get 2.5VAC at idle - and amost 8VAC at hi RPMs. Way way below what scoot is seeing on his scooters.
Man great vid I'll try this I have been charging my battery at the end of the day every day for the past month because if I don't some time the next day it will loss power I did not know were to start but thankx for the vid I'll start with this.
CandyFishRave This is not what you should be checking for charging issues. The exciter and pickup coils are for spark/ignition. Check these videos out for more help there : czcams.com/video/AZbg-krvZM4/video.html czcams.com/video/xS58b5jZ0ic/video.html
Nice timing, i just had my stator fail, got me home from a trip last night but in the morning no go, a pretty bad month, 1st losing the piston ring pin and now this :( gona order 2, one as backup so i wont be stranded.
Your average everyday business card is ten thou thick. We use them in setting the coil gap on mowers ALL the time. oil filter boxes work too. or a matchbook... You know that particular weight of paper.
i have a 150cc that used to run ok and then the dash, made of fiberglass started to crack and dismember itself , causing certain switches that were mounted on them to falter and break off. I lost my headlight and was forced to splice inorder to get home one night. Well apparrantly the splice caused the battery to drain and because I have ran the splice from a hot black wire from the high bean switch, which was one of few still attached to the fiberglass surrounding the left handlebars. Well that just fucked everything up. Once I stopped that connection, I was forced to get jumps with cables, and everytime it seemed to take longer to get the motor started. I also noticed that the run off line from the carb floats was starting to really get bigger each time I was in need of starts. Now, with a fresh battery, spark still from the plug, this SOB wont turn over. I have taken the carb off 5 times to ensure the jets werent clogged, and that the floats were allowing fill up and when that occured , the gas was being shut off the flow to the carb. WTF did i do????
If it's not getting any fuel, then you may have a petcock problem (failed or lack of vacuum supply) or a pinched or clogged hose or filter. If it's getting gas, try checking compression. Valves need periodic adjustments too and when they're out of adjustment it often makes them hard to start. czcams.com/video/s0K-ytyjOFg/video.html
I have an ATV that only has a pickup coil . I got the same 145ohm reading at the wire butt conector . But once I connect it and check resistance at the CDI conector unplugged I get 4ohm . Is the wiring bad ? Also I crank the engine but get not voltage reading . Any help? Thank you!
I recently bought a second hand 50cc gy6 and i'm having a strange electrical problem I think could be the stator. One headlight is brighter than the other on low beam, on high beam only the brighter headlight works. When side lights are selected the taillight is bright, when i switch to headlights the tail light dims to almost nothing. Finally today i noticed when idling on my commute I noticed if I turned my headlights on the idle would drop and stall the scooter if I didn't rev it. Could this be the stator or something else? thanks for looking.
Dim lights at idle and headlights affecting the idle (making it idle lower) are normal for the AC powered lighting systems. Adjusting the idle may help both. For the rest, I'd start with checking out the wiring. The lights probably have the same power source from the switch, so I wouldn't suspect the stator for uneven lighting levels.
Ok I've started looking over the wiring and opened up the wiring harness protective cover through the under seat area and there's a few wires spliced together then covered in black tape, is this Chinese build quality or something the previous owner has done you think? i'm going probably go to test the stator outputs from this video and your other video for the charging and lighting checks just for piece of mind in the mean time
Nice tut. Do you have an idea of a good place to find oversights to various makes diameter and stack specs of ignition packs (backplates, flywheels, stators, breaker/switch and coils) ? I have a bit (!) of an old timer ignition custom upgrade invention project at hand and all I have found so far with the shop parts, are "compatibilities" for so and so vehicles. My hog´s so far beyond end production that I cant find neither parts or documentations. I need to find something amongst todays makes closest fits, I need oversights of geometrics... Heeelp ! :D
Perhaps reason for having so many different specs is because different Chinese scooter manufacturers use different stators, got to find out what stator type was originally used on the scooter manual is for then you can map resistance values to that particular stator (not scooter). e.g. 49cc GY6 come with 3 types of stators that are easy to distinguish by looking at the connector type 1 has NO ground (green) wire, type 2 has ground (green) wire, type 3 has no ignition/cdi wire.
Good luck with that. I can tell you from personal experience that you find stators of the same style that are wrapped different. Some will fill each winding and some cheap out and leave room for more. When you've got that going on, it's gonna be real tough to find anything you can be sure is accurate.
Black/red is generally the exciter output. It's dedicated to providing power to the CDI on models with AC CDIs. White and yellow are charging and lighting outputs for the battery, headlights, auto-enricher etc...
no spark is usually bad cdi so try to borrow from any scooter atv snowmobile chainsaw that has similar looking cdi as for gy6 normal china scooter or replace it first. can also heat the cdi to fix it like in oven google it for temps and times.
49ccScoot my scooter doesnt turn off from the key, checked the ignition switch is good but the minus from the ignition is not (white and black) does not have continuity till the grey CDI
The CDI is ultimately what shuts off the spark, so if the CDI doesn't receive the signal to stop, then you will have to find out if you've got a wire disconnected or broken. Also make sure there is a good ground to the kill switch.
TBH I'm not sure. The signal may come from the leading or trailing edge, so if you were to use a reluctor of a different length centered in the same position then it would change timing. Otherwise, not sure.
Nope not all have continuity test. I'm working on one where the owners multi meter doesn't have continuity. It has AC and DC volts DC current ohms and diode test. I had to use my fluke which has that and additional testing for transistor and capacitance and coil.
The scooter I have has sat inside for a long time because it wouldn't start. Everyone says the cdi, the stator, bla bla bla... I went through all of that. Switches, stator, cdi, wiring... I did find some problems but when I got it to turn over finally, the starter would turn, then not turn, so I took it off to clean it and bench test it. The starter bearings were bad and sticking. It has sat for 5 years after 2 mechanics charged me to check out, told me it was cdi and stator... for a bad starter that not one mechanic ever mentioned to check or checked themselves. Sometimes it is a mechanical issue. Check the moving parts...lmfao
The gap helped me immediately with brand new stator, cdi, regulator, starter...but only getting 21.4 volts when cranking on fully charged battery on a 125cc ducar engine. Any pointers? Bike fires up and runs after resetting pickup gap but is stator not up to snuff?
hi, excellent video, i have 150gy6 (vento phr4) do you know how much watts does an 8-pole stator produce?? I am thinking of installing a set of 35w h4 lamps (70w total) and I don't know if the stator produces enough energy. How should I measure the output in watts of the stator?
Evaldas Kucinskas Hi, So I have a Honda SA50 1996 And I replaced the starter cause it wouldn't turn I replaced cdi box and ignition coil and still no spark also new battery I had it running yesterday I killed it and it won't start anymore. No power even gets to the cdi box what wiring could've gotten messed up
90GTVert I don't get any spark from the coil . It try's to turn over but no spark.i tried changing the coil and Cdi and still nothing It's getting gas . The kill switch I believe works. It won't turn on with it off but try's to start when it's switched on ...
Where does your Black/Red wire go to? I have both from stator. I have mate to CDI. (CDI > Blue/White - Blue/Yellow > Stator) On my CDI on the 2 PIN. I only have the bottom with Black coming out going to ignition.
Scooter pickup coils should output anywhere from 1 - 10 VAC depending on RPM. You need to use a peak hold meter to see this. The meter you're using won't show this since the signal transitions are too brief to register correctly which is why you're getting a low reading.
For a spark plug, I always put in a new plug or known good plug. For wires, you can check resistance and make sure their connections are secure. Coil resistance specs should be in a service manual. The CDI is another swap out. I don't know of a way to test them without some special CDI tester.
Do stator run in oil I have a suzuki gz250 street bike took the cover off oil came out,I read some run in oil keeps it cool,some say it doesn't thanks for the video
@90GTvert I ended up purchasing a malossi over range kit bec my stock cvt was having too many slipping issues. I had a question for you, do I need a different stroke crank or anything else different to run the 103cc big bore kit on the 1e40qmb? Thanks again for your help
fastmalibu01 Yes. You need to use a crank with a 45mm stroke if you wish to get 103cc from a 54mm bore kit. It will take quite a bit of clearance work to fit the 90cc+ crank and cylinder onto stock 49cc cases unless you get lucky and have the 1E40FM or 1E40QMB-A that are sorta oddball engines. Lots of info : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching
I can understand the awareness of valves, but gosh dang, a week ago, it was running like a champ, driving Interstate 15 in Vegas to work n back.. So what's the reason why the float levels, when full, aren't delaying fuel from continuing, but yet I do a blow check , personally & when floats hit full, I cannot blow into intake of fuel line.
So you're asking why fuel continues to flow into the carb, I assume overfilling it, even though you can blow into the fuel inlet and it stops the airflow? Maybe the float height is set too high.
So Joey, if you were me and all you have witnessed is a constant cranking without the engine turning over, all though, knowing there is spark from an engine that less than a week ago was flying strong until vandalized,,,,, what would be your next move?? I am staring at the carb now, which I have taken off 6 times now and I am wondering is there something simple, like the needle valves not properly positioned, or is the idle screw not lowered enough ,,,, as to why its not turning over?? Should the butterfly valve be open on the idle screw as a pre start up [position and how far is the mix screw supposed to be?? I mean, am I flooding the carb so bad that its being choked?? SHIT MAN!
I also have a question about the stator and I replaced all the electric components and still have no spark. It's a 2008schwinn sport. I rode it 4 days ago and put it in the garage and now it's Dead. Nothing will work I can only jump the starter to get it started. Please help
It sounds like you have a battery issue. If the stator was dead, jumpstarting would do no good. I'm not sure, but you may have a DC CDI. That's a CDI that uses battery power instead of AC power from the stator. DC CDIs will not operate to create a spark without a good battery.
I'm trying to figure out why I don't have spark I've replaced everything other than the stator but my stator only has the hardness and only one separate wire is this normal
For some scoots it may be normal. They aren't all wired the same. If it's a Chinese scoot/engine, there are multiple variations in stators even for the GY6 for example.
So what if my 139QMB 50cc with an 80cc head starts right up idles and accelerates fine and loses spark once it warms up? Starts right back up and shuts right back off.
I would try to check ignition components once it's warm. Compare cold and warm specs and factory specs and see what changes when it's hot. If you can't find anything that differs, but it's definitely got no spark or a weak spark when hot, then try swapping out the CDI, assuming you've already changed the plug.
Thanks for the info. The bike im working on is a Qlink Axon50. It does not have a green ground wire coming off of the stator. Is it grounded to the motor? Also im getting continuity between the engine block and all wires coming from the stator. does this mean it has melted the wires the ground on the stator?
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. These Chinese brands are hard to find but I’m going to remove the coil and see if the wires were burned together and shorted.
How do they make these multimeter so impossible to read and why do they make them all different if you've never used one before it there is not any way on this Earth you could use it
Not to the rectifier/regulator. To the CDI for a trigger signal. You can watch this happen with a voltmeter. It has nothing to do with charging/lighting.
Absolutely the best I've found on you tube!! Thank you!!
To add 3 weeks later, this vid helped me narrow down the no-spark issue I had on a Chinese youth ATV I acquired.
It had a bad CDI box.
So glad I found this video, I never considered pickup gap and you never hear anyone talking about a good ground. Great video, very clear and concise!
Great video, thumbed up and wish I could rate 5stars
Excellent video & very well explained. After trying everything for 2 weeks your video helped me discover the problem in minutes. The pickup gap had simply become too large, so I bent it down as close as I could and it works perfect now.
TIP: when replacing the stator make sure to set the gap right! I replaced it and had the same problem because the gap was still too large. Thank you very much!
This is one of the best channels ever.
Great job on video! I would recommend using a peak adapter for dynamic testing of pulsar and CDI. More accurate readings. DVOM will provide inaccurate information leading to unnecessary repairs.
Very helpful video. It helped me a lot. I had a bad connection in de green cable that I overlooked. The situation was that I had a unrestricted CDI that was working and an original, restricted CDI that was not working. My first conclusion was that the original CDI was defect but when I bought another one it had the same issue. The difference is that the unrestricted has a short circuit between ground and the sensor that is on the clutch to measure the speed. The sensor is a coil so the unrestricted did work because it used the ground through the coil. The restricted CDI has no short circuit between the speed coil pin and the ground pin so it did not work. When I watched the video I located the white connector with the green cable (ground) and it just fell apart. I soldered the green ground cable and all was good! All CDI’s work correctly now. Thx 4 the video.
thanks guy ,you just helped me fix my 150cc kazuma ATV in afew min,first one I messed with and I ck the gap on the reluctor and it was wayyyyyy off and rusty.it would fire here and there and sometime it wouldn't start at all a hit and mis.but now I cleaned it and set it with a cc it fires everytime.thanks
Glad to help!
Thank you. clear and concise without all the hype.
Thanks.
Yea! I think you are correct. I tried it on a good pickup today. you need at least 4 to 6 volts for noid lite. also looks like we are dealing with micro amps for current. Thanks for the reply!
good camera work, good audio, good explanations. nice job !
Thanks!
Thank You, I finally found the cause of my no spark from this video.
Just wanted to say thank you very much for the step-by-step tutorial it was super useful
Dude you saved the day again, i was checking according to this video and i noticed there was no ground to the CDI, this is a honda 100cc horizontal engine, ohm readings in this one are very similar to yours
Thanks
Glad you got it figured out.
Thank you for the help, the stator was exactly my problem. I had replaced the ignition coil, spark plug, and CDI internal circuitry until I watched this video. Learning how to check the stator was crucial. I found my stator was the problem, ordered a replacement from Amazon and that worked. Kids are off again terrorizing my neighborhood in their go-kart. Thank-you so much!
Glad it helped and the neighborhood is no longer safe! lol
This is a great video, succinct and to the point. I always start with cleaning up grounds so I know my other numbers are good but this is my first time dealing with exciter coils and pickup coils (magnetos). Keep up the great work!
Good video - most of what he went over I knew but it was interesting to see what values he was seeing voltage wise. I have a 2001 Yamaha ATV that will sometimes die - and typically backfire when it does. After 10 or 15 minutes it will normally start back up. I could not find anywhere what the voltages should be on the output of the pickup coil - or the input voltage to the CDI - or even how to really measure them. So I looked at the signals with an oscilliscope - this might be useful info for some . For the input voltage from the stator - that pretty much a sine wave (at least from my stator) so the VOM meter should read that pretty accurately. The pickup voltage it will not - it is not a sine wave - not even close. If you *know* what a VOM reading should read for a given engine - even though it not actually correct - that fine - it can be useful as a comparison. I did not have that info. The scope shows a +11VDC peak - goes to zero for a bit - than a -11VDC peak - goes back to zero for a bit. For a complete cycle the wave form is at zero voltage for perhaps 30 or 40 percent of the time. It no wonder a VOM will give no reading or very low reading on that type of non-sine wave. You can get a much more accurate reading if you connect a "Voltage Peak Reading Adapter" - VPA - to your meter - rmstator has one - on Amazon - it pricey - $50 - but you can also find that kind of adaptor for half of that easily on ebay. It converts a voltage (to DC) to closer to what the peak voltage is. For me the plus and minus 11V signal displays on my VOM (with the VPA in series) as 5.5VDC (cranking), 9VDC (idle), and 15VDC at hi RPM. You can also use the VDA and find a useful "baseline" voltage for the signal from the CDI to the coil. The oscilliscope shows a very short duration pulse from +5VDC to -12.5 - to fire the plug. A VOM by itself would not capture that pulse. Using the VPA with a VOM I got 2.5VDC cranking, 2.36VDC at idle, and 3.1VDC at hi RPM. RMSTATOR has a pretty detail troubleshoot guide using a VPA. I may have found my problem - may be the stator. Both 49ccscoot VOM reading for the stator voltage to the CDI input and what Rmstator says in their troubleshooting flowchart is WAY above what I'm seeing. Using just a VOM (the VPA is not really needed since what you are measuring it a sine way) I get 2.5VAC at idle - and amost 8VAC at hi RPMs. Way way below what scoot is seeing on his scooters.
Best service presentation ever
Great video! Very informative... no other videos ever mention the gap... I almost replaced my stator until I watched this. I'm so thankful
Thank you very much for this tutorial! Best regards from Ukraine!!
hi thx ,tested solenoid , it's bad ,I got a new replacement. will test today.
That was a very good tutorial on how to do this. Thank you!
Great info and presented well. Thank you
very useful, i needed to kow what kind of voltage to expect from the pickup for my yamaha motorcycle
Thanks that was very informative I will use the information to get this Chinese atv started
fabulous video..no ego just plain facts...thank you
Thanks 👍 for the info 👍
Man great vid I'll try this I have been charging my battery at the end of the day every day for the past month because if I don't some time the next day it will loss power I did not know were to start but thankx for the vid I'll start with this.
CandyFishRave This is not what you should be checking for charging issues. The exciter and pickup coils are for spark/ignition. Check these videos out for more help there :
czcams.com/video/AZbg-krvZM4/video.html
czcams.com/video/xS58b5jZ0ic/video.html
Nice timing, i just had my stator fail, got me home from a trip last night but in the morning no go, a pretty bad month, 1st losing the piston ring pin and now this :(
gona order 2, one as backup so i wont be stranded.
Do I hear Nicolas Cage?
;-)
Good explanation
Great video, good and stable camera, very fine description, thank you
Best explained video,good on man.from Ireland.
Your average everyday business card is ten thou thick.
We use them in setting the coil gap on mowers ALL the time.
oil filter boxes work too. or a matchbook... You know that particular weight of paper.
Very nice video!
i have a 150cc that used to run ok and then the dash, made of fiberglass started to crack and dismember itself , causing certain switches that were mounted on them to falter and break off. I lost my headlight and was forced to splice inorder to get home one night. Well apparrantly the splice caused the battery to drain and because I have ran the splice from a hot black wire from the high bean switch, which was one of few still attached to the fiberglass surrounding the left handlebars.
Well that just fucked everything up. Once I stopped that connection, I was forced to get jumps with cables, and everytime it seemed to take longer to get the motor started. I also noticed that the run off line from the carb floats was starting to really get bigger each time I was in need of starts.
Now, with a fresh battery, spark still from the plug, this SOB wont turn over. I have taken the carb off 5 times to ensure the jets werent clogged, and that the floats were allowing fill up and when that occured , the gas was being shut off the flow to the carb.
WTF did i do????
If it's not getting any fuel, then you may have a petcock problem (failed or lack of vacuum supply) or a pinched or clogged hose or filter. If it's getting gas, try checking compression. Valves need periodic adjustments too and when they're out of adjustment it often makes them hard to start.
czcams.com/video/s0K-ytyjOFg/video.html
Thank you so much! I found what I'm looking for.
Good explanation
Thanks a lot
this was helpful gonna try it now. thank you
Great knowledge
Learn alot, thank you, best video I seen on checking the stator, God bless
Thanks for your sharing knowledge!
Should I have continuity between the yellow and white wire coming from stator?
Very informative and helpful. 👍
Thank God for you. This is helping me so much
Thank you so much for this video
Thanks for watching! Glad if it helped.
I have an ATV that only has a pickup coil . I got the same 145ohm reading at the wire butt conector . But once I connect it and check resistance at the CDI conector unplugged I get 4ohm . Is the wiring bad ? Also I crank the engine but get not voltage reading . Any help? Thank you!
Very very nicely done. Thank you.
I recently bought a second hand 50cc gy6 and i'm having a strange electrical problem I think could be the stator. One headlight is brighter than the other on low beam, on high beam only the brighter headlight works. When side lights are selected the taillight is bright, when i switch to headlights the tail light dims to almost nothing. Finally today i noticed when idling on my commute I noticed if I turned my headlights on the idle would drop and stall the scooter if I didn't rev it. Could this be the stator or something else? thanks for looking.
Dim lights at idle and headlights affecting the idle (making it idle
lower) are normal for the AC powered lighting systems. Adjusting the
idle may help both. For the rest, I'd start with checking out the
wiring. The lights probably have the same power source from the switch,
so I wouldn't suspect the stator for uneven lighting levels.
Ok I've started looking over the wiring and opened up the wiring harness protective cover through the under seat area and there's a few wires spliced together then covered in black tape, is this Chinese build quality or something the previous owner has done you think? i'm going probably go to test the stator outputs from this video and your other video for the charging and lighting checks just for piece of mind in the mean time
Awesome explanation! Thanks!
Nice tut.
Do you have an idea of a good place to find oversights to various makes diameter and stack specs of ignition packs (backplates, flywheels, stators, breaker/switch and coils) ?
I have a bit (!) of an old timer ignition custom upgrade invention project at hand and all I have found so far with the shop parts, are "compatibilities" for so and so vehicles.
My hog´s so far beyond end production that I cant find neither parts or documentations. I need to find something amongst todays makes closest fits, I need oversights of geometrics... Heeelp ! :D
Sounds like that would be a useful resource... but I have no idea where you'd find that. Sorry.
Perhaps reason for having so many different specs is because different Chinese scooter manufacturers use different stators, got to find out what stator type was originally used on the scooter manual is for then you can map resistance values to that particular stator (not scooter). e.g. 49cc GY6 come with 3 types of stators that are easy to distinguish by looking at the connector type 1 has NO ground (green) wire, type 2 has ground (green) wire, type 3 has no ignition/cdi wire.
Good luck with that. I can tell you from personal experience that you find stators of the same style that are wrapped different. Some will fill each winding and some cheap out and leave room for more. When you've got that going on, it's gonna be real tough to find anything you can be sure is accurate.
That's why i love chinese scooter
Great video , thanks . Do you know what the levels are for the white and yellow and the differences between white , yellow , black/red . Thank you
Black/red is generally the exciter output. It's dedicated to providing power to the CDI on models with AC CDIs. White and yellow are charging and lighting outputs for the battery, headlights, auto-enricher etc...
no spark is usually bad cdi so try to borrow from any scooter atv snowmobile chainsaw that has similar looking cdi as for gy6 normal china scooter or replace it first. can also heat the cdi to fix it like in oven google it for temps and times.
Very informative video. Thanks
Thanks for uploading. I love CZcams so much😁
49ccScoot my scooter doesnt turn off from the key, checked the ignition switch is good but the minus from the ignition is not (white and black) does not have continuity till the grey CDI
The CDI is ultimately what shuts off the spark, so if the CDI doesn't receive the signal to stop, then you will have to find out if you've got a wire disconnected or broken. Also make sure there is a good ground to the kill switch.
does the length of the reluctor affects the ignition timing? or the signal sent to the cdi?
TBH I'm not sure. The signal may come from the leading or trailing edge, so if you were to use a reluctor of a different length centered in the same position then it would change timing. Otherwise, not sure.
Great video! So well explained, thumbs up bro!
Great Video! Thanks!
Nope not all have continuity test. I'm working on one where the owners multi meter doesn't have continuity. It has AC and DC volts DC current ohms and diode test. I had to use my fluke which has that and additional testing for transistor and capacitance and coil.
Great job. Great explanation.
Another good vid Brent
TheAmishSasquatch Thanks!
Thank you .
is it normal to have overload on the exciter coil on VAC? or is it just a bad stator?
The scooter I have has sat inside for a long time because it wouldn't start. Everyone says the cdi, the stator, bla bla bla...
I went through all of that. Switches, stator, cdi, wiring... I did find some problems but when I got it to turn over finally, the starter would turn, then not turn, so I took it off to clean it and bench test it. The starter bearings were bad and sticking.
It has sat for 5 years after 2 mechanics charged me to check out, told me it was cdi and stator... for a bad starter that not one mechanic ever mentioned to check or checked themselves.
Sometimes it is a mechanical issue.
Check the moving parts...lmfao
Thanks for the info
The gap helped me immediately with brand new stator, cdi, regulator, starter...but only getting 21.4 volts when cranking on fully charged battery on a 125cc ducar engine. Any pointers? Bike fires up and runs after resetting pickup gap but is stator not up to snuff?
If it runs and you aren't experiencing misfires or low power, then it should be fine.
hi, excellent video, i have 150gy6 (vento phr4) do you know how much watts does an 8-pole stator produce?? I am thinking of installing a set of 35w h4 lamps (70w total) and I don't know if the stator produces enough energy. How should I measure the output in watts of the stator?
Well explained. Thanks
Great video thanks for this good information
Thanks again very informative!!
Great Video. THANK YOUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!!! This helped a LOT!!!
Glad it helped!
Hi I measured 118 ohm on the cable from the pickupare these measurements normal?
Thanks
Great job. Thanks for the help
My black and red wire shows 3v, thanks for help :)
Evaldas Kucinskas Hi, So I have a Honda SA50 1996 And I replaced the starter cause it wouldn't turn I replaced cdi box and ignition coil and still no spark also new battery I had it running yesterday I killed it and it won't start anymore. No power even gets to the cdi box what wiring could've gotten messed up
Evaldas Kucinskas I didn't mean to write to u
Same here. Did replacing the stator fix your problem?
great info thanks ... everything checks out but still no spark
There's still the coil, CDI, and spark plug... as well as kill switches.
90GTVert I don't get any spark from the coil . It try's to turn over but no spark.i tried changing the coil and Cdi and still nothing It's getting gas . The kill switch I believe works. It won't turn on with it off but try's to start when it's switched on ...
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/647/start-troubleshooting?page=1&scrollTo=8057
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/4666/easy-guide-spark-condtions
Where does your Black/Red wire go to? I have both from stator. I have mate to CDI. (CDI > Blue/White - Blue/Yellow > Stator) On my CDI on the 2 PIN. I only have the bottom with Black coming out going to ignition.
Black/red is the exciter coil's output to the CDI to charge it. Usually it goes to a red/black or black/red wire.
Scooter pickup coils should output anywhere from 1 - 10 VAC depending on RPM. You need to use a peak hold meter to see this. The meter you're using won't show this since the signal transitions are too brief to register correctly which is why you're getting a low reading.
What if i have a DC system and the pickup coil has 2 wires coming from it?? How do I do the voltage test on that??
You may need to do a resistance check on that.
Good vid. I have a Suzuki Z50 kids quad. It starts, runs lovely until you rev it. No power and very slow. Could this be the pick up?
It's possible. Could also be something like a clogged main jet.
So i have power on the pick up and resistance. And power from the stator. Does this mean it must be cdi? How do I test spark plugs or leads
For a spark plug, I always put in a new plug or known good plug. For wires, you can check resistance and make sure their connections are secure. Coil resistance specs should be in a service manual. The CDI is another swap out. I don't know of a way to test them without some special CDI tester.
this showed me how too fix my scooter
Great video. thanks
Do stator run in oil I have a suzuki gz250 street bike took the cover off oil came out,I read some run in oil keeps it cool,some say it doesn't thanks for the video
Some run in oil and some don't. All of the smaller stuff that I'm used to is dry, but I'm not familiar with the GZ250.
I gave you a like..and I subscribed myself
@90GTvert I ended up purchasing a malossi over range kit bec my stock cvt was having too many slipping issues. I had a question for you, do I need a different stroke crank or anything else different to run the 103cc big bore kit on the 1e40qmb? Thanks again for your help
fastmalibu01 Yes. You need to use a crank with a 45mm stroke if you wish to get 103cc from a 54mm bore kit. It will take quite a bit of clearance work to fit the 90cc+ crank and cylinder onto stock 49cc cases unless you get lucky and have the 1E40FM or 1E40QMB-A that are sorta oddball engines. Lots of info :
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching
I can understand the awareness of valves, but gosh dang, a week ago, it was running like a champ, driving Interstate 15 in Vegas to work n back..
So what's the reason why the float levels, when full, aren't delaying fuel from continuing, but yet I do a blow check , personally & when floats hit full, I cannot blow into intake of fuel line.
So you're asking why fuel continues to flow into the carb, I assume overfilling it, even though you can blow into the fuel inlet and it stops the airflow? Maybe the float height is set too high.
So Joey, if you were me and all you have witnessed is a constant cranking without the engine turning over, all though, knowing there is spark from an engine that less than a week ago was flying strong until vandalized,,,,, what would be your next move?? I am staring at the carb now, which I have taken off 6 times now and I am wondering is there something simple, like the needle valves not properly positioned, or is the idle screw not lowered enough ,,,, as to why its not turning over??
Should the butterfly valve be open on the idle screw as a pre start up [position and how far is the mix screw supposed to be?? I mean, am I flooding the carb so bad that its being choked?? SHIT MAN!
I also have a question about the stator and I replaced all the electric components and still have no spark. It's a 2008schwinn sport. I rode it 4 days ago and put it in the garage and now it's Dead. Nothing will work I can only jump the starter to get it started. Please help
It sounds like you have a battery issue. If the stator was dead, jumpstarting would do no good. I'm not sure, but you may have a DC CDI. That's a CDI that uses battery power instead of AC power from the stator. DC CDIs will not operate to create a spark without a good battery.
do you know what kind of amps a pickup coil puts out? I am wondering if a node light may work for a pickup test.
No idea what kind of amps the pickup may output. I think you're better off with a multimeter than a noid light.
I'm trying to figure out why I don't have spark I've replaced everything other than the stator but my stator only has the hardness and only one separate wire is this normal
For some scoots it may be normal. They aren't all wired the same. If it's a Chinese scoot/engine, there are multiple variations in stators even for the GY6 for example.
So what if my 139QMB 50cc with an 80cc head starts right up idles and accelerates fine and loses spark once it warms up?
Starts right back up and shuts right back off.
I would try to check ignition components once it's warm. Compare cold and warm specs and factory specs and see what changes when it's hot. If you can't find anything that differs, but it's definitely got no spark or a weak spark when hot, then try swapping out the CDI, assuming you've already changed the plug.
Could a bad stator lead to random engine cutoffs/engine cutoff while barely giving throttle?
It's possible. Anything in the ignition system could.
Thanks for the info. The bike im working on is a Qlink Axon50. It does not have a green ground wire coming off of the stator. Is it grounded to the motor? Also im getting continuity between the engine block and all wires coming from the stator. does this mean it has melted the wires the ground on the stator?
Some don't use a ground wire. You'll need to see if you can find specs for that model. There are different configurations of stators.
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. These Chinese brands are hard to find but I’m going to remove the coil and see if the wires were burned together and shorted.
Thank you!
How do they make these multimeter so impossible to read and why do they make them all different if you've never used one before it there is not any way on this Earth you could use it
eccelent video gud tutor,, I can't start my scooter 150
The CLOSER the gap from pick up/reluctor gap THROWS more electric(a/c) to RECTIFIER? the wider GAP lessen the AC throw?
Not to the rectifier/regulator. To the CDI for a trigger signal. You can watch this happen with a voltmeter. It has nothing to do with charging/lighting.
Oowww sorry i forgot the cdi. So i need to see 50VAC to 59VAC? at .015 inch?
Whatever the distance, you want to see around 0.5VAC from the pickup or more and 50VAC or more from the others.
Good..good..video..thanks..thanks
Dealing with charging issue now battery not charging.
great job. thanks.