How to test lawn mower key switch
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- www.metalinmotionshop.com
Metal in Motion based in Lenoir City TN, shows you the concept of testing a riding mower key switch. This key switch is off of a Craftsman riding mower, but can also be found on your Murrays, Simplicitys and many of the older or lower end riding mowers.
To learn how to test lawn mower safety switches clink link below:
• How to test lawn mower... - Jak na to + styl
Presentation rocks.
Subject rocks.
You rock.
I fried a coil and, even though I'd purchased a new switch, I wanted to make sure that part of the equation was operating correctly. This video took care of this requirement immediately. I sometimes get impatient with instructional videos but not here. Well done.
Josh , boy do I owe you . This video saved me about $ 200.00 . I followed your instructions ; removed the ignition switch from position , tested the ignition switch and started the unit .... but it wouldn't go "off " ! As a last resort I put the ignition switch back in it's position and secured it with it's nut . Turned it on = ok ; turned it "off" & it went off. I never thought about the ignition switch NEEDING TO BE GROUNDED ! !
Hope this small move helps someone else .
Paul
Thanks. Explaining the lettering helps a lot.
You have been a lot of help the last couple of days , but still trying to get my mower running. Changed out solenoid and clutch cable , battery and now moving on to a couple of more switches.
very nice tutorial, was looking at trouble shooting the mower was not starting (not even clicking) seen this and quickly take off the switch to test and found it really was faulty switch and then try clean with wd40 and the switch start working again. good job on the tutorial.
Super helpful and to the point! I wish every repair video was like this.
have fun reconnecting that switch
@YoungGhost555 - If the letter aren't stamped into the round plastic housing then they're usually stamped into the flat spade terminals where the pigtail connects. Clean the terminals good with a wire brush and you should see them.- Josh@metalinmotionshop
Thank for the great information. Was able to determine key switch was bad using your video. Took it apart, cleaned it a bit and raised the contacts to get it working again. Really like that you showed the diagrams at the end as I was dealing with a 7pin switch.
You were on point and sent me down the right rabbit trail. Thanks.
I recently went thru all the motions and it led me to my key switch, I sprayed some pressurized quick evaporative cleaner into the switch and it cleared the problem up and my mower started cranking again. I hope this helps someone.I had already disabled the seat kill switch, can't stand my mower shutting off when all I need to do is pick up a limb or something. I have a Poulan Pro 20.5hp.
Thanks so much. You're the first one to show the wiring diagram I needed. Just got done mowing the lawn! Ha Thanks for the help!!!
Mate i love the step by step simplicity of your video looking forward to more as love fixing things and as a pensioner it saves me big time , i wish you would do Mobility scooters as mine has been in the lounge for nearly 12 months and i wish i could understand circiut boards or buy pass stuff just to get it going as i cut 2 wires so i could remove the key switch to get a broken key out and i forgot which wires were wich , now i'm stuck
Great video . Short and sweet with details! Fixed my mower
Very good demo, & just what I needed. Thx. The Kawasaki FB460V manual changed most of the back side lettering for whatever reasoning, but the rest of the schematic let's me transpose the letters by process of elimination.
They also printed a huge mistake by saying, CAUTION: Flywheel nut has a left-hand thread. NO IT DOESN'T! And I wasted a lot of time with Rust Blaster soaks, while tightening the nut just to make it harder to later get it off. 🤬
Thanks Josh, couldn't get my yard machine rider to start. Your concept way of explaining rider switches was spot on. Good teaching. Btw, I grew up on a small farm close to Friendsville, until 321 cut our farm in half. From there to Knoxville and then to a couple tours In Viet Nam war. Now in Pensacola, but I miss those Smokies every day!
Thanks for your service in the Nam.
Ditto worked on one today can finish now ,and I didnt even look for this it just popped up, lucky coincidence!!
Spot on thanks my switch was failing test got a new one and re tested and all OK per your test.....
Excellent instructions, very clear and easy to follow, but I have a 2004 Murray and some of the combinations involve 3 contacts rather than two. OFF = M+G+L, RUN1 = B+L A+Y, for example. Three contacts for two positions and the RUN1 is as shown, as if I need to test two sets of two contacts. Thanks
I just fixed the key switch of my Murray. It didn't start the motor for about 5 years now. So I used a booster cable to connect the battery and the solenoid each time, I wanted to start the motor.It worked, but it wasn't even practical, when the motor stopped and the booster cable was in the garage hundreds of yards away from you.
I was stupid enough not to install a camera. All you have to do is to bend up the bottom edge with pliers. Then you can take the switch out of the housing.
me/ Germany
Really enjoy your videos. I'm working on a Murray mower that was sitting for a few years. Electrical issues with it. Learned a ton from your videos. Thank you.
Another great video Josh. Thank you.
Thanks again! Second video I have watched from you today and solved the problem I think. My switch is 4 stage. Off, lights, run, and start. No joy from run and start but off and lights worked, so I'll pick up a switch. Thanks again! I subscribed and hope you continue to post excellent videos.
@lostsheep870 You might have seen this already, but I wanted to make sure you knew this post was for you. - You need to turn the key one click to get the key switch out of the off postion. The off position grounds out the magnetor so the spark plug won't fire. Once you're out of this position you can jump the motor off on the solenoid or starter or use a screw driver to turn the key switch in the crank position. I usually use a flat blade scew driver just like key. Let me know how it goes. -Josh
Somebody has given that vise a work out for sure!
@Slowpoke5055 - hey slowpoke, I had the camera set up on a tripod. My lighting and space was limited to where I could place the light and the camera. I just moved into a new shop with great lighting, so I hoping to set up a recording section of the shop to shoot how-to videos. With better light, it will enable to get some better shots. Thanks for your post!!- Josh
Thx - saved trip, shop fees n fix my Scag... awesome!!
IF you have time can you do a vid on the 6 pole switch. Basically the Indak Z Trac switch has an A, ohms when On position, it has 2 S blades, but my brand new switch doesn't Ohm in the Start position. It also has a ground terminal, instead of grounding to body.
Thanks Josh - clear intelligent instruction. And good presentation.
Well done ... I've been trying to keep my key switch alive by cleaning with Deoxit which had brought it back to life a few times.
So
Summary of the diagnostic steps necessary to successfully test the ignition switch on your lawnmower.
1. Turn your multimeter setting to its continuity setting and verify it works by touching the probes together which should cause a beeping sound.
2. Turn the ignition key to the off position and check continuity between the (G) ground terminal and (M) magneto terminals by touching these terminals with the probes of the multimeter which should cause a beeping sound from the multi meter.
3. Turn the ignition key on (but not to start) and check for continuity in the same way between the (B) battery terminal and the (L) lights terminals.
4. Turn the ignition key to the start position and test for continuity (beeping) between the (B) battery terminal and the (S) solenoid terminal.
If all three tests confirm the existence of continuity, then the ignition switch is GOOD but if any of these three tests fail, then the ignition switch is defective and needs replacement.
im looking at a 1998 craftsman wireing diagram the A1 lead conn. 12v to regulator for chargeing also conn. to fuel shutoff on carb M lead conn to ignition unit to kill eng with a ground S lead conn to C on pto switchteh to the brake pedal down contack then to small post on solenoid to start the eng bat for everything is conn to B lead via a 30 amp fuse like he said L is for lights A2 operates the operator relay if the seat switch is operated that that seat relay conn when operated to mower blade clutch magnet if pto is pulled out
very nice video, you explained it perfectly.
Excellent...clearly defined video....good job. I have a generic "Murray, Crap mower...but it has worked fine for years now"...now the key doesn't do anything when turning...also, the standard keys for "generic" mowers are incredibly cheap...very, very cheap...
Question...will any "5-pole switch work with any manufacturer?" Can I get one at HomeDepot?
+Frank From Upstate NY I want to say that the most common 5 pole you get at home depot or lowes will work, BUT you really need to make sure the letters on the terminals of your old switch are in the same location as your new switch. If they are not correct it could potentially burn out your ignition coil and stuff.
Great explanation. Thank you!
Very helpful! Thanks!
I've got some issue where my mower won't crank with the key. This eliminated the ignition as the culprit. Thanks.
Thanks for the video is good learning
Well explained thanks for the help
Thx...I ordered an OEM switch...it cost over $21 dollars; wholesale to retail, and postage....shld cost $5.95
I noticed they stopped marking the back of the switch -Indak switch. Wiring diagrams don't help. I dont have L. Back research of plug indicates the terminals I have G, M, B, S1 S2, and A. The only ones that Ohm when switch is turned to run on start is B and A. Can anyone explain why the S terminals dont show any connect? This is brand new switch. Deere Z trac.
Thanks,having problems with my Murray rider. Think it might be the switch.
how to replace switch for Xmarks 2007 lawnmower
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. czcams.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Thanks helped a lot!
Nice video thanks
an easy way to test the key switch ----with brake pedal down turn key to start this conn 12v thru fuse to small post on solenoid if all you get is a click go to next test use pair pliers to short 2 large post on solenoid this will spin starter ---this tells me i have a bad solenoid replace it (any auto store has them ) if spins and no start( with fuel) look at carb should have a small wire conn. to carb unplug that wire check for 12 v with switch on-----another test if eng. fails to turn off check small wire conn to coil this wire grounds coil to stop eng with switch off just reconn if off coil this covers switch operation
I tested the key switch as per your instructions and the test was NO GOOD. The switch I used to replace the 5 pole switch was a #327355MA. The test for continuity is as follows. CIRCUIT M+G is off, B+L is ON, and B+S is start.
The back of the switch is clearly marked. The only problem I encountered is that the key falls out of the switch. The test in the video shows that the switch is bad and it cost me 25.00 to find out.
Great man, thanks
I have been watching your vids and they are a big help. I have a 93 White 43" rider and I cant get anything when I turn the key. No lights nothing. I watched this vid mine is a 6 prong, still it had continuity where it should. The solenoid (3 pole) has a constant 16.55 volts from the battery but nothing going out and nothing going to the wire that comes off it. Safety switches are in order, icouldnt find one on the clutch, the seat switch is disabled and I have the blades disengaged. Any ideas?
Thanks great job 👍🇨🇦
Okay the first one in the off position that bread on my meter II to didn't read. The problem I was having is the engine would turn over on choke on a 30-inch 13.5 horsepower Craftsman mower riding mower, but once I put it into drive and or lengaged the blades it would die. so since the second two on the one click and the starting show no reading let me go get a switch and I'll let you know WHAT HAPPENED
On mine it runs but the wire connecter itself that plugs in back of switch is bad. I can wiggle the wires and it will crank and run, but vibration will make it lose connection again. How can I tighten the wire in the plastic plug? It is as if the wire there wants to push out.
How do u test a 7 prong ignition switch on a craftsman mower?
Thanks a Lot!
Just wanted to let you know that I was fixing a no start Murrary tractor and couldn't figure it out for the life of me. Everything checked out until I got to the switch. The switch is a 5 prong however in a different order than yours but the switch still checked out ok. I bought a new switch that is in the same order as yours and the tractor fired right up! Thanks for the help. check out my channel, I have a few home equipment vids, but mostly car realated. Thanks
Can you please show how to set the multi meter I have no clue! Also my mower will start with the key but it won't turn OFF! I have to shut the gas off for it to shut down but then it sounds like it's going to blow up cuz it revs so high can you tell me what to look for? I have new carb and new starter on it already any help much appreciated
Wow this is very informative and I was able to test my key switch to find it aint working. problem is i do not know the part number. i have a model number for tractor noma D4314-100 (old!) The switch has zero terminal markings. 5 pole three position. If I trace the the wire harness wires back and find out which ones of (LBMGS) go to, can i just buy any switch that has 5 poles (example oregon 33-397) and simply switch the wires to fit the harness in the right position to correspond with the new switch? I actually tried it but the first position simply pops the 25 amp fuse at the battery. Any ideas?
when i tested the continuity for the run/light position i didnt get a beep...can this prevent my mower from starting?
tip072
Thanks!
Great Video Thanks!
Can a bad ignition switch cause a mower engine to die when the headlights are turned on?
You can have continuity and still have a bad switch under load....
It could happen, but as long as there is no high resistance it should work ok
What 2 prongs would I want to have jumped in the plug in to just get my mower to run position? I have a z force 50 cub cadet with identical key switch that inside has worn out in waiting on new one in mail and my grass is getting long. Just looking to get the mower into run position so I can jump off starter and get my lawn mowed. Thanks in advance
Nvm it’s B+R+L in manual so I’ll go from there I’m not sure what the R stands for as neither of your descriptions show me
Great vid guy! Thanks!
So here is what I am having an issue with. I am not an electrician in any way. So I am learning as I go. I have bought me an 89 Murray lawnmower with the same switch. I went out to harbor freight and bought there $8 buck cen-tech multimeter. laugh all you want but I have no idea how to work this thing and the instructions might as well be in a different language. So I need help. From anyone, what were you using to test your switch? You said you had it set on continuity and tapped the probs together and got a beep well I have no idea were that setting is. Can you or someone show this to me so I have a better understanding on how to use this alien device. I would realy appreciate it. Perhaps even using the same meter i have would be awesome as well.
Josh, I recently replaced my Murray key switch (7 pole) and everything worked fine for a little while then I smelled something hot. I found the positive terminal on my battery got so hot it melted! What's a good starting point to diagnose?
Sometimes key switches look just a like. You have to make sure the pins on the back are the same as the one your replacing. Or you could fry your electric system.
i have a john deere stx 38 and i need a new ignition... i bought a four point ignition switch... it has one terminal for bat, one for acc, and one for ignition..., and one fore starter.... is it compatible to this modle? and how should i connect it if it is? or should i just go out and get a propper plug in type?
sunny Beaumont California, is your newest subscriber,don't know if you will see this. have 12.8 volts in battery, put volt meter on pos and neg of battery, mower is in parked position, neutral, deck blade stopped.turn key to start volts go down to 3.9 volts.any quickie AH HA moment for you sir, I will check your solenoid video and will be doing that check next..I always have to jump mower starts with no problem then.any ideas??
My John Deere 6 prong has no letters under key switch . I don’t know which is which and it’s not in my book. Also can’t find on net
Question this is a new lawnmower hasn't been used but 4 times so the new key want fit in the ignition switch anymore what the heck.
Good information and a good looking guy ;)
Hello and thanks Josh. I need to test something electrical, maybe the key switch, the solenoid, or? I had the battery checked on my kawaski, cub cadet riding lawn mower and it has voltage 12.66, measured 298 rated 300. How do I take off the parts to test them? Thanks
Will all these 5 prong switches interchsnge even if they have different part numbers on them?
Assuming you have a meter that beeps.
Josh , can u help me to put the wires on the right way on the switch n what color goes on the M , S , L , B , it's a sear craftman GT-6000 thank , it's the same switch on the video 5 p. switch
hey i need some help from somebody. i have the same switch but it is plastic. is there a way to just connect a different switch to the wires to start my mower? i just need some way to start it without buying a whole new key switch.
There is no letters on two of the key switches I have
Would you do a segment on more complex switches such as the John Deere that have a printed circuit attached?
Thanks
Tony
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower czcams.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
My multimeter does NOT beep..what is the meter reading supposed to be for continuity?
if it doesnt have a continuity test you can set it to 200ohm resistance and just watch to see if the numbers on the meter rise.. if it stays at 0 there is no continuity.
If (B-L) doesnt have continuity is the whole switch bad or will the lights just not work? Domt care about lights just want to be sure my switch with still work to start mower. Not starting but every but what i mentioned has continuity..
Usually so long as B - S are connected you engine will start. Then to shut off your engine you need G-M connected. Usually L is just for lights and maybe sometime accessories. Sometime that accessory is the fuel solenoid on the carb. So long as it's clicking when your key goes from off to on ( not cranking) you should be good.
Thank's
can i rewire a 7 pin down to a 5 pin just to gett my lawn cut? goung to take 3 weekd tr get switch
Can you use these ignition switches for atv
Couldn't be any easier to follow.
What could be happening inside the ignition switch if my B + L terminals don’t have continuity. Common sense say purchase another switch. Availability, receiving the correct part, and cost is becoming an issue. Can you repair one of these switches if there an internal disconnect? My lights turn on for a flash second when turning on the mower, but then cut out as the mower operates. Bulbs and wiring are good. It’s at the switch. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Snow is inbound and cold. Need my tractor!
Chris Bridges - On some switches (most) you must turn the key back to the light position of the key switch to turn your lights on. When starting your mower you momentarily pass through the “lights on” section of the switch, thats probably why they’re temporarily coming on. I have torn them apart and cleaned the contacts and the little copper wipers inside but its a little bit of a pain.
The little wiper that connects the B + L is either burned, bent or dirty. Some fine sand paper and contact cleaner can usually fix it.
What key does it take
Quick question what are the odds of having a brand new key switch for a Toro TimeCutter not to work after performing your test that was just shown in this video ?
I have yet to run into a problem with a new one. The odds of you having a slightly different key switch than my video and could have different results is more likely… unless of course you know it’s identical to the one in my video.
@@metalinmotionshop if you have an email I can email you a picture of what the switch looks like
How to you get the key switch out?
How do you know what colour of wire to connect to the metal bits
It doesn't really matter if you're starting from scratch, but to help tracing any of them, then colors are very helpful
I held the key in the start position thinking it's going to start, it's going to start....etc and it just cranked and cranked until the battery post melted
Are you stupid?
Ffffffffffffffffuck off
lol if it doesn't start after about 10 seconds tops then you need to let the starter battery cables etc cool downdon't ever keep cranking on it because if its not starting then there's obviously something else wrong and cranking on it is going to do more damage than good
+Bluegill20 sure you didnt get your starter and ignition mixt?
How do you remove the switch? I can't get mine off.
trying to replace gravely ignition switch sn#00625614. I'm told machine is about 30 years old.
So on what pin does the charging wire go?
A1
hey, what color goes with what letter
I can't start my ride on mower when the kill wire is connected to the magneto and I have to connect the kill wire after turning the key switch to the off position in order to shut the motor off. I was wondering if the problem is with the key switch. Must there be a connection to the ground terminal (G) on the key switch for the system to operate properly. My key switch only has connections to the solenoid (S), magneto (M) and the battery (B) terminals but nothing is connected to the G terminal. Any advise would be appreciated.
Send me your model and serial number and ill see if i can find the schematic. In short, yes you need the G connected at the key switch. Usually this only has to do with turning your mower off but i would to check the schematic to be sure.
Model No. 122607 Type 0176E1 Code 010312FA. It's a Castlegarden ride on mower with a 6hp Briggs and Stratton single cylinder OHV engine. Hope that helps.
I've checked all the safety switches and they're all good. I've checked the ignition key and it's good. I've replaced the faulty solenoid with a new one which I also tested so I know that's good. As I say, when the kill switch is disconnected I get a spark at the plug and can fire the engine up but can't shut it down without earthing out the magneto. The only other thing I can think of that might be causing a problem is if there's a fault with the small circuit board which is built into the wiring system. I'm not sure exactly what this does but it's there for a purpose. I'm really puzzeld by this problem and hope you can help.
Ok. So that model number is the engine model #. There should be another model number on mower itself. Usually under or in the rear fender wells or back of mower.
Lets assume you don’t have some fancy electronic module on there. If your G is disconnected from the keyswitch and you are still having to disconnect it at the magneto then you definitely have a problem with the circuit and it not the key switch. Most mowers have that ground wire going through a blade switch and a seat switch and sometimes the brake switch. Like if you have the blades on and get off the mower it will die. Assuming your switch are good( which you tested) that black wire is rubbing the frame or something metal to ground it out. I would trace that black wire back from the magneto to the key. You could check for continuity to it at the magneto to battery ground and the tug and move the wiring harness around and see if you lose continuity( make sure to disconnect it from magneto).
Some safety switches pigtails have a spring inside that when disconnected the spring ground the engine to prevent it from starting. Also check for dirt in the pigtail themselves as I have seen them touching another through the grease and grime.
Let me know what you find.
excellent!
Great video, question I have a older craftsman riding mower, how do I remove the ignition switch to test it?
i know this is 5yrs ago but my craftsman has a plastic housing that pops up from underneath, unplug harness and set.
my club cabinet zero turn will start but when I release the hand brake it shut off can any one tell me what the problem is
safety switch under the seat. likely cause..
hi guys. how does a 6 prong key switch function on MTD lawn tractor. thanks in advance.
Send me your model number and Ill try and look it up.