Serpentine belt replacement on a 2013 Honda CR-V
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- Serpentine belt replacement on a 2013 Honda CR-V
Gates K070663: amzn.to/3VOMVcM
optional tool: amzn.to/478a2Vf
0:49 remove the coolant reservoir
1:04 loosening the tensioner
1:35 removing the belt
1:53 removing the wheel
2:00 removing the inner fender cover
2:30 pulling the belt out
3:19 new belt routing down below
3:34 new belt routing up top
3:55 new belt installed
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Great Video. Helped me replace my belt. If anyone else is having problems putting the belt around the smooth pulley what I did was use the handle end of a breaker bar to push the belt down as I was using the serpentine belt tool to let off tension which helped to slip the belt around the smooth pulley for the last little push needed. The whole job took me about 20 minutes.
Thanks Jay, and thanks for adding your tips!!
Those attempting this on a 4th gen CRV should be aware that there are marks (an arrow and bar) on the top side of the tensioner that line up when the belt is new but that move out of alignment when the belt begins to wear. This is a good indicator as to how much your belt has stretched out and why its always easier to remove an old belt vs installing a new one. In any event, its a good idea to replace the belt at 100K if it hasn't been done by that point. Also, it is infinitely easier when putting on the new belt to thread all the upper pulleys first and then put the belt over the crankcase pulley last using the removal tool to remove tension on the tensioner from below as you have much more room to maneuver the tool.
yea i couldn’t even get it on with sliding it over the smooth pulley, i had to take off the idler pulley, loop the belt around it, then resecured it with the belt already on while holding tension off, absolute bear to do
My husband said he watched this video and the trick of putting it on the tension pulley was what enabled him to complete the the job!
Great to hear Penny!
Amazing! So clearly explained.
Thanks Carlos!
If a dealership charges $260 to do this I understand. You would have to purchase a Daytona car jack, jackstands,sockets, special tools, ratchets, the belt, and have the know how The average person is not going to buy all of those tools, or have the will to do this job, lol. Most people just pay out of their ass. But, some people don't mind going balls out & changing their own serpentine, head gasket, clutch etc. .It is a rare bread of person who does their own mechanic work in 2024.
"But, some people don't mind going balls out & changing their own serpentine"
Thanks for the huge amount of undeserved credit. lol
Lol well most people who would work on their own car should already have basic tools like the jack etc. You're making it out to be a bigger deal than it is.
Then you can also work on other things with your car, say your brakes. Ultimately you'll save big time from going to dealerships or other shops. And possibly learn stuff & have fun in the mix 😊
@@mcsqueegee81 Most people in ur neigborhood arent about that diy mechanic life. I got 2 cars & been drag racing & tooling on B18/b16 ls vtecs since the 90's so im all in when it comes to repairs on my car. So when i pulled out my cylinder head, camshafts, etc, i realized how royally fukd i was if i couldnt put it back together with new seals & a head gasket. I laughed, cuz i knew theres no way in hell non gear heads would even fathom doing their own head gasket.
Getting the belt over the last pully is much much harder than depicted. This needs to be shown in detail and not glossed over.
You are correct getting it over the last pulley will be the hardest one. There’s no “glossing over”, it’s just hard to capture the entire spectrum of what everyone will experience in my video. Plus, logistically it was a very difficult location to capture on video. I hope you found it helpful even if I wasn’t able to capture your exact experience with it. Thanks for watching.
@@bennieaust Everything up to a point went swimmingly. I bought a genuine Honda part and matched it to the old one. I jacked the car up, took the right front tire off, removed the access covers, moved the overflow bottle and used the tension pulley to remove the old belt. I got the new one on and around the pulleys right to the top on and the tensioner. The belt is correctly positioned on the lower pulleys. The $16 serpentine belt "tool" to work the tensioner worked perfectly to take the belt off. It is very difficult to use the tool because the new belt has to be around it. When putting the belt on I can't get enough leverage on the tensioner because the tool keeps hitting the front of the chassis. One video had a guy make his own tool by welding a bent bar to a 14 mm combo wrench. I'll try to make my own tool tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'll have to have the thing towed to a mechanic and pay the $160 to have them slip the GD thing over the last pulley. Your video was great. Just the very last, most important part didn't do it for me. Thanks for trying.
@@erdi950 , you're welcome. I hope you can get it finished off tomorrow. Make sure the last pulley you slide the belt over is a smooth one riding on the back on the belt.
@@bennieaust Turns out I did everything right except pay $122 for a guy to use the serpentine belt tool from below. You cannot get enough deflection of the belt tensioner from above (without a specially built bent tool). If you go from below the tensioner is moved enough to get the belt over the pulley and finish the job. What's worse, I even had a picture of the belt path which showed the tensioner being used from below. Oh, well. New question: Do I really want to restore my K24-engined CR-V. It's gas mileage has gone down by a third and Honda wants 3-full days to diagnose the problem, 3 weeks from now.
@@erdi950, I can’t say for sure what’s going on with it but for the cost of having Honda diagnose it you may want to just start with an air filter and an upstream O2 sensor. Does it burn oil or is the check engine light on?
Apreciated the info that’s realy helpful
No problem Jorge!
Great video mate
Thanks!
$286 at Honda dealer Chattanooga.
That’s crazy, and that’s why I made this video! Thanks!
Why did you replace this belt? was it slipping? was it high mileage on it? also my upper idler sounds dry? What is the fix for that? thx
The belt has 100k miles on it.
It was replaced as preventative maintenance.
If you have a noisy idler the fix is to replace it.
@@bennieaust Thank you Bennie
@@Susan70003 you’re welcome!!
Thanks for watching!
Have you done a head gasket on this vehicle??
I have not had to do a head gasket on one of these.
Thx
You’re welcome!
What part number did you use?
The gates / Napa part number is K070663
@@bennieaust yup. That belt won't physically slide in. Tried Dayco and contitech as well. They are about 1/4 inch shorter.
@@jfc723 it will, this video is of me installing one. It’s a tight fit though, and as I stated in the video, you’ll have to slide it over a smooth pulley.
So you’re saying the dayco and contitech are sorter so they will not install?
@@bennieaust well not sure what you really did. I've been doing this work for quite sometime and it wouldn't slide in not even over the tensioner pulley. I even try a slightly bigger belt and no success. Will try Honda one next.
@@bennieaust gates, contitech and dayco 7pk1683 belts are not going in. 7pk1687 which is 5mm bigger still doesn't slide in.