2013 VW Jetta - Stalls/No communication when HOT
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Thank you all for tuning in to Super Mario Diagnostics!
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Thanks for adding on the last bit about the blown fuse. Goes to show your honesty in these videos is for real. Thanks!!
More of these please. So full of good information and knowledge
New video for my morning! Thank you!
You showed what it takes to properly diagnose a bad ECM. It works!
Hope the used ECM continues to keep the car going for a long time.
Thanks for this video AND the 5 Volt Reference tip.
Great testing and video, cheers Mario
I worked at a ford dealership back in the 80s &90 and ford called it v- ref.
For Fords of that time, it seemed the first step was to check for 5 volt reference at the TPS.
I offer you respect and gratitude for the information you provide on this useful channel, and I thank you very, very much with deep appreciation for you and your information.❤❤❤
I enjoy the content you provide. It's fun watching you and your channel progress.
Video did not disappoint as always. "Real world programming" sure is increasingly challenging, specially when you want to service multiple brands.
Good stuff Mario, glad you left the module info in there it’s so important like you said.
We charge every time for testing. Some customers calls us mad because of that but maybe we dont need them 😂 some people just are wired differently.
Mario, a very good video. I alway enjoy watching your videos.
Súper Mario gets to the monster and get his princess like everytime
Let me guess. The fans were fine when we brought it in. lol Always the same story. Great video Mario.
Not sure if anyone I referred to you calls you. I am a local automotive locksmith and when we have a weird issue that is on the car side I always tell people they need a diag guy and refer them to you.
Great video.
I agree with you on everything you said. The testing you did is not overkill, this is the proper way of doing things.
An extra step is to record the customer accepting the responsibility of taking a gamble on an "experienced" part, especially if the vehicle came from another shop, in my experience sometimes shop owners are the worst customers due to ego issues.
Can you provide a link to the test light with the purple leads, or is that hand made? TIA and great video!
Jarhead Diagnostics. Great products
Great Job !!!!
Not sure if I missed something, but how do we know that radiator fan code wasn’t present with the first ecm? Didn’t we not have any comms with the first ecm due to an internal error? Therefore we couldn’t read any codes on that original ecm?
So isn’t it possible that radiator fan fault was indeed present the whole time? Of course the new one could have the problem but how do we know that wasn’t already in the unreadable first ecm? If we couldn’t ever read the codes on it.
I suppose you could reason that if the car wasn’t previously overheating then there wasn’t a problem before hand? Just curious because/c everything you do is so thorough
Thanks for the videos, appreciate what you do.
Hi. Great video on engine ground i watched . I have a question that no one seems to be able to answer. I have a 1999 ford f 250 4x4 superduty regular cab. All lights and blinkers work on front of truck , but nothing at all works on the tail lights. Bought a new multiswitch directional for blinkers and wipers, But did not help. I checked every fuse in cab and under the hood with a tester mutiple times with ground to battery . Under the hood 2 fuses never worked. Put in 2 new fuses they never worked either. They were the 7.5 fuses which are for the blinkers. Also in the cab i changed 2 fuses that never lit up with the tester either , replaced them and failed the test light test........any ideas in what direction i can look ...............thank you so much!
Have you fixed it yet? I have the same truck and had the same problem and it was the common Ground point used by the tail lights. I forgot if it was G401 or G601. I unscrewed it, cleaned it, screwed it back on and tail lights worked.
Hi Mario,where do you download schematics?
Why would you keep broken parts around? Surely used parts should be checked to see if they at least work?
We didn’t keep it around. It was bought
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Ah, fair enough.
Great content. If I may make a suggestion. Instead of using the word "bad" to reference a type of fault be more specific such as high resistance Or something of that nature. I think it will add more depth to your content.
Good suggestion
Just to make sure I understand, why would the ECM shut the engine off if it lost comm? Yes, on the scope both CAN lines appear un-changed so presumably the network is there @ ECM connector. Also, you said you ruled out 5V ref, but that's the pink/purple trace on the scope, and that's the one that appears most changed at that obvious point on the graph, but you zoomed in and out and I couldn't really make any judgements yet. What did you say about it?
Also, nice scope, I see Micsig logo, how do you like it?
That is only noise from alternator or ignition coils. Pretty normal
Losing comms is of the two symptoms, not necessarily the only one
The noise on the 5v ref doesn’t affect it’s supply. If it were to drop to 2 volts, there’s a short in the circuit that must be addressed
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics oh you mean, that when ECM fails and stops responding, what you verified is that when it happens, the CAN lines are still unaffected and preset at ECM connector, that's why all other modules are reporting lost comm with it.
And as far as 5V ref, ignoring the noise, it stayed reliable, thus all sensors should be getting it, thus loss of sensor signal shouldn't be the reason ECM shuts engine off?
Why not repair the original ecu instead of replacing with a used one?
It’s more cost effective to replace than to troubleshoot and repair this motherboard
It’s a Vw!!! Multiple failures all the time lol
Dont know why you rip of the customer. No comm to the ECM. Replace the ECM.
jkjk