Have my videos have helped you? why not support the channel in some way You can make a one off/ monthy donation here in only one click: www.buymeacoffee.com/MyRetroWatches If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate & eBay (I do earn a small commission from any sales.) Thank you. Link: Link: myretrowatches.co.uk/tool-sale-links/ If you would like to buy any of my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches
This watch probably started my interest as a collector. In about 1970 my uncle took me out for ice cream while he was wearing this watch. He said it wound with the movement of his wrist. He was a joker and I didn't believe him! Then at my father's 80th birthday party in 2008 I saw him still wearing it! Long since a collector at that time, we had a nice conversation. He passed a few years ago at 93. Recently I contacted my cousin, his daughter, and discovered she had the watch. I'm now the new caretaker of it and want to restore it a bit. The bezel is missing and the crystal needs replacing, but it otherwise seems ok. Replacing these and a servicing and cleaning will do. It's a 6106-8039 with a black dial like yours, which I've haven't been able to spot another example of. The only difference I can determine between the 8030 and the 8039 is that the 8039 has lume down the centers of the hands, and the movement has 17 jewels instead of 25. Also there's no "Sea Lion" text on the back nor a depiction of a Sea Lion. The SN is 844609. I'd like to remove the movement to ultrasonically clean the case. Once I remove the crown will the movement just drop out? I heard you mention that the plastic ring may lock that in. Thank you for this great video!
Hey! My comment is not related to this video in particular, but I wanted to thank you for your work in general. I got into watches - and their mechanics - for two years. I started to craft my own tools to replace a defect balance on cheap (but charming and interesting) soviet pieces. You teached me a lot with your videos, I got way more serenity and confidence thanks to it. On CZcams you are the one that shows this hobby can by casual, chill and inexpensive - perfect for the student I am. I did first my full services and restorations last days with success, on a soviet desperate case, then with two nice Lip from the 60's. By the way, I encourage you to check those french Lip watches, especially from the 50s to the 70s, in-house calibers T18 r25, r23, r136... The watchs are cool and not expensive, the brand has a strong history, a lot of innovations and brevets, was quite avant-garde in technic and designs. Unknown except in France but it's worth the check. Anyway, cheers from France, keep up having fun with watches. Pierre
Meri Pierre. Very happy to read your comment and that I have perhaps inspired you into this hobby. Keep doing what you are doing. Each watch is an experience and the satisfaction is always great when you see a watch tick again.
Really enjoyed the video, was particularly interested in the chemicals you used to free the rusted keyless works, I have had several with rusty keyless. Many thanks.
Hi Mike, I really enjoy your videos and they have helped me learn how to overhaul watches, a hobby I only just started last year. I have a tip that my help other beginners like me. When putting the balance back into the movement, the angle of the bridge is very important. The jewel on the balance needs to be on one-side of the pallet fork, but which side depends on whether the pallet fork is in the tick position or the tock position ( sorry I could not think of better name for the pallet fork positions!). If the pallet fork is pointing to the right the jewel needs to be further to the right so that the jewel will enter the pallet fork fingers correctly when the balance wheel turns. If the pallet fork is pointing to the left, the jewel must be further to the left. To put the jewel in the correct position, check the pallet fork position and rotate the balance bridge 20 to 40 degrees away from it’s final location (clockwise if the pallet fork is pointing right, and counter-clockwise if it is pointing left). Then move the balance so that the bottom pinion enters the shock jewel. When the balance pinion is in the shock jewel, rotate the balance bridge back to it’s final position and lower it onto the locating pin(s). This normally works for me and should prevent damage to the jewel (impulse jewel?).
I agree with you on the Seikos are a joy to work on. Another one I did a lot of learning on is the Vostoks. Cheap, easy to work on, and genarally fun watches to own.
Nice Work, Seiko's Are Great watches , I have a gold plated one in the same case design, Picked it in Melbourne Australia. I check out all the pawn shops in the area, Came back with a dozen in various states of repair. Came back with a rare 1980s 4S35-8000, looks like a Grand Seiko at First glance, JDM only. Great fun pastime. Keep up the good work.
I do like my older Seiko's, still to get a 6309 that floats my boat. I have moved further inwards into modern Seiko territory with some pretty darned good Pulsar's and Lorus's and even a Seiko SQ which surprised me being quite a big piece... Got my first HMT Jawan today with the "broad arrow" and waiting on a really unusual Orient tristar crystal in a hexagonal case. Watching this taking a break from recording my triple Sekonda video which will feature a very early Soviet Sekonda De Luxe (which is flawless, abs mint condition), a limited edition Dr Marten's Sekonda from a WUS member and a more recent massive Sekonda One chronograph which ironically has a Sii (Seiko) movement inside.
Beautiful watch, I really like these square cases. I got one just like this that was in a lot that I've bougt, misssing the dial, hands and bezel, but one day it will be up and run again. Great video :-)
Very good restoration. Nevermind the finger/hands in the shots. I like a more continuous shot of the disassembly/assembly along with your cleaning machine montage. Best of luck on the crown issue.
Sorry about my fingers. It’s almost impossible for my not to get them in the way. When I can afford a DSLR and macro lens then hopefully this will be a thing of the past. This video was also not planned. Only because i had problems on disassembly I decided to film the assembly. Normal full watch restoration videos will becoming very soon.
Thank you. Not sure what improvements I made. I was more annoyed at the focus issue at the start. I do all filming off the cuff and it would ruin my style to rebuild to film again just to get it right. Thanks for watching.
Such a beautiful watch and restoration. The thumbnail caught my attention because, about a month ago, I found an old Orient in a tool chest with an almost identical case, the only noticeable difference being that the crown was at 3 o'clock. The styling was probably common at the time, I'm guessing. Half the movement is missing, so hopes of restoration are next to none. Maybe, someday :)
Came for the watches, stayed for the mistakes. I'm on my first rebuild - a 1980 USSR SLAVA 2427, in a 'tank' model.. Twin spring. Have donor movement. So far it's kicking my arse.
Hi. Congratulations on the video, Very Cool !!! I'm from Brazil, I recently found my grandfather's watch, who died when I was 5 years old, now I'm 38. It's a Seiko m330, in terrible condition. It doesn't work anymore and by the way someone, who doesn't understand the subject, tried to open it, I don't know. I would try to restore it.
I like the day date layout on this one. I've not seen one like that before. I hope you manage to find a suitable replacement crown for it and sympathise with your frustration at having to open it up again
fwiw, there is a rust remover called evap-o-rust that dissolves rust without harming the good metal. I don't know if it's available in the UK, but i understand that there are some competing brands with similar performance. It does leave the steel or iron ready to flash oxidize, but usually this takes the form of black iron oxide which is hard, thin, and smooth.
Hi Mike, I don't know if did you solve the problem or complication to open the case. Please, would you like to show how we must face this problem, please. Thanks
Hi Mike, I did a 6119 with similar day/ date setting mech. I found that the crown is kind of recessed so it fits over the stem tube (like a U shaped cross section). That recess was full of accumulated dirt that had to be cleaned out so it could move in when pushed. Hope it helps.
Thanks stephen . That’s actually a tip I give many people in the FB group when they don’t know why the day date won’t work. Problem I have is that to remove the stem I have to take the bezel and crystal off which is no mean feat ! Thanks
Love it, my seiko 5 6119 had its balance/hairspring get magnetized while in an imaging department at a hospital... any advice? Order a new balance complete? Try de-magnetizing with a de-gausser you can order?
Just buy one of these rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FWatch-Repair-Screwdriver-Tweezers-Electrical-Demagnetise-Demagnetizer-Tools%2F231210180053%3Fepid%3D1039338182%26_trkparms%3Dispr%253D1%26hash%3Ditem35d5335dd5%3Ag%3A-aMAAOSwRPBdOg33%3Asc%3AUSPSFirstClass!20109!US!-1%26enc%3DAQAEAAACQBPxNw%252BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qVWhsM0rrtcHqcXF4QKg123sgf%252FaLGEKRn%252FLli1%252BulDRzMQhYf5xm7uBr91LwgDb3T8rOptQpFQxaqz8NSPrfx%252F%252BO0OKHYfyMW%252BbfevdSnLpRxx0ZfBA%252BnJxp1BpUHhdKMmiz2TDH6%252BwrCyGjSaZVhim92u%252FAPaWv3IOD33ypadxkXaFdDc3sStWHLYJd8YRUBxBACIHXNlqCuCPO8NIZdc2kN8n97TLquWK%252B5HsY1LupgTwVibTScKmEY9ht%252FmXsi3EytUD7T%252FC%252BCs%252FLbeBs0RcHwdhFlmOVXrM5opZMJD6EAg02WwW%252B0tVFY6JfF7q644sexrpnGM1HvWRFg88vDBeMVHMSgpJDzYOUFVNA3p6RCmRanv22k487DcoeLJHW%252FD7yPpYgvJnnw%252BKw6KDAnWduRfDutcXRaP2kqL6n9fpQ2TShusFIdJNk7LMRsU8p1RaQKVMtAahOUX1KClhuMr%252Bg54ub6A7gVAbzjE8axs9Hx0pz6%252FuayGF3JBlYcSlMsjaaKDcnRh7SjNIVLvjdFdUmDUECRtRZq1MR8h0gQf7%252FUZGlIydCjPVLX8NVA%252FABG6LLVdqxVoMK3SBYLz82mGX5DeSVvvAWQxshJkxZdQxcADX4RQF%252F51QNLiiztl5RqTXXJU8Hdc7EK8l6MaumgVgzaVrc28lF3Dn6aAVQa%252Fls4Ls%252BU2U%252BOwspzCy4hLHZtZmEB6H9b1oU4ZUY7IGNllkGD07fnXqq6p%252FsVj8YcqZw%253D%253D%26checksum%3D23121018005395746aaeb30c4a83b18a841951f2a191&campid=5338562247&toolid=20008
Is it just me getting it wrong, or is what you call the forth wheel, is not the second wheel? Barrel is first wheel, and wheel next to escape wheel is the forth? Otherwhise great videos :-) I just cleand a Seiko VFA 3923-502A, and just waiting for new straps, nice looking watch
Yet another interesting video from you. Nice watch too! Annoying with the missing function of date and day setting of course. Did you tweak the beat error and rate like you said before fitting the movement in the case?
I've lusted after one of those for a few years now. Almost won one but my max was outbid by a few quid ☹️ As for the locking ring 'snap ring' , the Seiko casing guide says DO NOT REMOVE.
Hi Roberto hope your well mate. Yes these seem to command a bit of money and I’ve not seen many full day wording wheels before on these. Not surprised it says do not remove as it’s impossible to do so! Wish I could because I could make the case look really nice .
@@MyRetroWatches Yeah all good here. One day I'll snag one in my usual cheap as chips finds. They usually need refinishing but that's part of the fun. Still not got a corner to call my own to practice movement stripdowns etc. No point starting if I have to stop and pack stuff away safely. Needs to be left out at the stage I finished at. Again, one day 😄
Hi Mike! Can you explain to me how to remove the bezel and crystal from this watch? the tool should grab only the bezel? and then glass? To make the movement
For taking photos of reflective things, get a polarizer filter for your camera. Doesn't have to even screw on, you can just hold it in front of the lens, twist until clear then snap away.
Fantastic. I never thought of that. I have one for my dslr but I photo watches on my phone. Now going to look for a clip on one. I’ve had so many issues with that before that I never even realised there was a solution!
Not sure I understand. The lever when pushed lifts the setting lever to release the stem. Problem I had was the stem and crown were rusted solid together .
What a beauty Mike. Some of the 70's watches are quite ugly in my opinion but this is a real classy looking watch. I'd be much obliged if one day it landed on my doormat in a jiffy bag! ;⁰)
Sometimes all it needs is a clean behind the crown. It fills with crap and stops you pushing it in to quickset. Problem with this model though is to remove the stem the bezel and crystal have to be removed.
Have my videos have helped you? why not support the channel in some way
You can make a one off/ monthy donation here in only one click: www.buymeacoffee.com/MyRetroWatches
If you would like to purchase any tools & equipment then please see my Amazon affiliate & eBay (I do earn a small commission from any sales.) Thank you.
Link: Link: myretrowatches.co.uk/tool-sale-links/
If you would like to buy any of my T-Shirts then please look here: teespring.com/stores/my-retro-watches
This watch probably started my interest as a collector. In about 1970 my uncle took me out for ice cream while he was wearing this watch. He said it wound with the movement of his wrist. He was a joker and I didn't believe him! Then at my father's 80th birthday party in 2008 I saw him still wearing it! Long since a collector at that time, we had a nice conversation. He passed a few years ago at 93. Recently I contacted my cousin, his daughter, and discovered she had the watch. I'm now the new caretaker of it and want to restore it a bit. The bezel is missing and the crystal needs replacing, but it otherwise seems ok. Replacing these and a servicing and cleaning will do. It's a 6106-8039 with a black dial like yours, which I've haven't been able to spot another example of. The only difference I can determine between the 8030 and the 8039 is that the 8039 has lume down the centers of the hands, and the movement has 17 jewels instead of 25. Also there's no "Sea Lion" text on the back nor a depiction of a Sea Lion. The SN is 844609. I'd like to remove the movement to ultrasonically clean the case. Once I remove the crown will the movement just drop out? I heard you mention that the plastic ring may lock that in. Thank you for this great video!
Hey! My comment is not related to this video in particular, but I wanted to thank you for your work in general.
I got into watches - and their mechanics - for two years. I started to craft my own tools to replace a defect balance on cheap (but charming and interesting) soviet pieces. You teached me a lot with your videos, I got way more serenity and confidence thanks to it. On CZcams you are the one that shows this hobby can by casual, chill and inexpensive - perfect for the student I am.
I did first my full services and restorations last days with success, on a soviet desperate case, then with two nice Lip from the 60's.
By the way, I encourage you to check those french Lip watches, especially from the 50s to the 70s, in-house calibers T18 r25, r23, r136... The watchs are cool and not expensive, the brand has a strong history, a lot of innovations and brevets, was quite avant-garde in technic and designs. Unknown except in France but it's worth the check.
Anyway, cheers from France, keep up having fun with watches.
Pierre
Meri Pierre. Very happy to read your comment and that I have perhaps inspired you into this hobby. Keep doing what you are doing. Each watch is an experience and the satisfaction is always great when you see a watch tick again.
Really enjoyed the video, was particularly interested in the chemicals you used to free the rusted keyless works, I have had several with rusty keyless. Many thanks.
I just used a releasing agent spray call Plus Gas.
I love these when they arrive at this time on a Friday. Much more interesting than my day job. Can't wait until I watch it later tonight.
Hi Mike, I really enjoy your videos and they have helped me learn how to overhaul watches, a hobby I only just started last year. I have a tip that my help other beginners like me. When putting the balance back into the movement, the angle of the bridge is very important. The jewel on the balance needs to be on one-side of the pallet fork, but which side depends on whether the pallet fork is in the tick position or the tock position ( sorry I could not think of better name for the pallet fork positions!). If the pallet fork is pointing to the right the jewel needs to be further to the right so that the jewel will enter the pallet fork fingers correctly when the balance wheel turns. If the pallet fork is pointing to the left, the jewel must be further to the left. To put the jewel in the correct position, check the pallet fork position and rotate the balance bridge 20 to 40 degrees away from it’s final location (clockwise if the pallet fork is pointing right, and counter-clockwise if it is pointing left). Then move the balance so that the bottom pinion enters the shock jewel. When the balance pinion is in the shock jewel, rotate the balance bridge back to it’s final position and lower it onto the locating pin(s). This normally works for me and should prevent damage to the jewel (impulse jewel?).
I agree with you on the Seikos are a joy to work on. Another one I did a lot of learning on is the Vostoks. Cheap, easy to work on, and genarally fun watches to own.
Nice Work, Seiko's Are Great watches , I have a gold plated one in the same case design, Picked it in Melbourne Australia. I check out all the pawn shops in the area, Came back with a dozen in various states of repair. Came back with a rare 1980s 4S35-8000, looks like a Grand Seiko at First glance, JDM only. Great fun pastime. Keep up the good work.
Very nice!
Another vintage Seiko up in running, always liked the square case, great job!
I do like my older Seiko's, still to get a 6309 that floats my boat. I have moved further inwards into modern Seiko territory with some pretty darned good Pulsar's and Lorus's and even a Seiko SQ which surprised me being quite a big piece... Got my first HMT Jawan today with the "broad arrow" and waiting on a really unusual Orient tristar crystal in a hexagonal case. Watching this taking a break from recording my triple Sekonda video which will feature a very early Soviet Sekonda De Luxe (which is flawless, abs mint condition), a limited edition Dr Marten's Sekonda from a WUS member and a more recent massive Sekonda One chronograph which ironically has a Sii (Seiko) movement inside.
On rusted parts use this stuff called C.L.R. Calcium lime and rust remover and it does a excellent job on stuff like you have.
Mike nice job on the sea lion I like that it has English and French days if the week
Nice video, great to see an old watch come back to life! Cheers, Dave Roberts
Thank you Dave
Love those old Seiko designs
There's always another Seiko I haven't seen before, so many that I really like too.
Beautiful watch, I really like these square cases. I got one just like this that was in a lot that I've bougt, misssing the dial, hands and bezel, but one day it will be up and run again.
Great video :-)
a masterpiece
beautiful watch !!!!!
When I was little I always thought square case watches had square movements until my grandfather showed me.
Excellent choice of watch!
Thanks
@@MyRetroWatches I've never seen this dial. I'll bet it starts conversations with watch people. 😃👍🏻😃
A really nice watch!
Mike, beautiful work! Thanx so much for sharing that with us. I saw the final video where you fixed it also.
Thanks Glen glad you liked it.
Well done Mike!, beautiful watch mate. Good learning here for sure. I've a few seiko's waiting on me at the moment!,so thank you so much. Adrian 🍀🍀
Very good restoration. Nevermind the finger/hands in the shots. I like a more continuous shot of the disassembly/assembly along with your cleaning machine montage. Best of luck on the crown issue.
Sorry about my fingers. It’s almost impossible for my not to get them in the way. When I can afford a DSLR and macro lens then hopefully this will be a thing of the past.
This video was also not planned. Only because i had problems on disassembly I decided to film the assembly.
Normal full watch restoration videos will becoming very soon.
Nice improvements in the way to show the rebuild !
Well done mate !
Thank you. Not sure what improvements I made. I was more annoyed at the focus issue at the start. I do all filming off the cuff and it would ruin my style to rebuild to film again just to get it right.
Thanks for watching.
A very interesting video as always. Enjoyed it a lot! Thanks Mike!
Love those 6106's such great movements!
The world-wide-watch-watchers, if you need a name for the group ;)
Such a beautiful watch and restoration. The thumbnail caught my attention because, about a month ago, I found an old Orient in a tool chest with an almost identical case, the only noticeable difference being that the crown was at 3 o'clock. The styling was probably common at the time, I'm guessing. Half the movement is missing, so hopes of restoration are next to none. Maybe, someday :)
Plus Gas?! My dad used to use that on reluctant tractors. Versatile.
Came for the watches, stayed for the mistakes.
I'm on my first rebuild - a 1980 USSR SLAVA 2427, in a 'tank' model.. Twin spring.
Have donor movement. So far it's kicking my arse.
Great video Mike, thanks for your time and efforts once again.
Wonderfull vintage watch ! Great job, mister !
Hi. Congratulations on the video, Very Cool !!! I'm from Brazil, I recently found my grandfather's watch, who died when I was 5 years old, now I'm 38. It's a Seiko m330, in terrible condition. It doesn't work anymore and by the way someone, who doesn't understand the subject, tried to open it, I don't know. I would try to restore it.
Good rescue Michael. I wouldn't be able to wait on the crown though. It would keep me up at night!
Likewise it’s being fixed this weekend!
I like the day date layout on this one. I've not seen one like that before.
I hope you manage to find a suitable replacement crown for it and sympathise with your frustration at having to open it up again
Cheers, Mike
Cool watch and a good job you've done.
She turn out nice. Lovely dial and like those cases to ;)
I'd like to have seen all the rust in the beginning. Very nice job.
Very good work. It was a tough task and you had to fight hard with him ...
Thank you, for sharing, nice job, mate! Really Good video.
Great work again Mike!
Thanks mate
The more Seiko’s the better 👍 thanks good video
Excellent work. Riveting to watch.😅
fwiw, there is a rust remover called evap-o-rust that dissolves rust without harming the good metal. I don't know if it's available in the UK, but i understand that there are some competing brands with similar performance. It does leave the steel or iron ready to flash oxidize, but usually this takes the form of black iron oxide which is hard, thin, and smooth.
Thank you for this information I was only looking at Evapo-rust the other day online.
Fantastic work - I love these!!
Thank you.
Never seen this one before. I like it.
Very nice job, and watch. Stay safe buddy
Thank you. You too sir.
Excellent video, it looks very good!👍
Thank you Brian!
Amazing work!
Let's hear it for the algorithm. All hail the algorithm!
Haha thanks. Ive been a bit of a stuck record about it recently and it shows..
Analytics show everything is down over 25% with no real reason.
Watchmakers HATE this ONE WEIRD HACKING in Seiko!!!
All 6106 hack.
Great job sea Lion
Hi Mike,
I don't know if did you solve the problem or complication to open the case.
Please, would you like to show how we must face this problem, please.
Thanks
Reminds me my star burst, oval, oversized timex ufo...from the 70s too
Hi Mike, I did a 6119 with similar day/ date setting mech. I found that the crown is kind of recessed so it fits over the stem tube (like a U shaped cross section). That recess was full of accumulated dirt that had to be cleaned out so it could move in when pushed. Hope it helps.
Thanks stephen . That’s actually a tip I give many people in the FB group when they don’t know why the day date won’t work.
Problem I have is that to remove the stem I have to take the bezel and crystal off which is no mean feat !
Thanks
@@MyRetroWatches Good luck to you when you get round to that.
@@steve1811uk it’s bugging me too much to leave it so this weekend it’s being fixed!
@@MyRetroWatches I know how you feel, this hobby is very addictive. I'm the same, I can't leave stuff like that, has to be done ASAP.
Love your videos!
A watch that old has no business looking that sharp.
Haha indeed.
Love it, my seiko 5 6119 had its balance/hairspring get magnetized while in an imaging department at a hospital... any advice? Order a new balance complete? Try de-magnetizing with a de-gausser you can order?
Just buy one of these rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FWatch-Repair-Screwdriver-Tweezers-Electrical-Demagnetise-Demagnetizer-Tools%2F231210180053%3Fepid%3D1039338182%26_trkparms%3Dispr%253D1%26hash%3Ditem35d5335dd5%3Ag%3A-aMAAOSwRPBdOg33%3Asc%3AUSPSFirstClass!20109!US!-1%26enc%3DAQAEAAACQBPxNw%252BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qVWhsM0rrtcHqcXF4QKg123sgf%252FaLGEKRn%252FLli1%252BulDRzMQhYf5xm7uBr91LwgDb3T8rOptQpFQxaqz8NSPrfx%252F%252BO0OKHYfyMW%252BbfevdSnLpRxx0ZfBA%252BnJxp1BpUHhdKMmiz2TDH6%252BwrCyGjSaZVhim92u%252FAPaWv3IOD33ypadxkXaFdDc3sStWHLYJd8YRUBxBACIHXNlqCuCPO8NIZdc2kN8n97TLquWK%252B5HsY1LupgTwVibTScKmEY9ht%252FmXsi3EytUD7T%252FC%252BCs%252FLbeBs0RcHwdhFlmOVXrM5opZMJD6EAg02WwW%252B0tVFY6JfF7q644sexrpnGM1HvWRFg88vDBeMVHMSgpJDzYOUFVNA3p6RCmRanv22k487DcoeLJHW%252FD7yPpYgvJnnw%252BKw6KDAnWduRfDutcXRaP2kqL6n9fpQ2TShusFIdJNk7LMRsU8p1RaQKVMtAahOUX1KClhuMr%252Bg54ub6A7gVAbzjE8axs9Hx0pz6%252FuayGF3JBlYcSlMsjaaKDcnRh7SjNIVLvjdFdUmDUECRtRZq1MR8h0gQf7%252FUZGlIydCjPVLX8NVA%252FABG6LLVdqxVoMK3SBYLz82mGX5DeSVvvAWQxshJkxZdQxcADX4RQF%252F51QNLiiztl5RqTXXJU8Hdc7EK8l6MaumgVgzaVrc28lF3Dn6aAVQa%252Fls4Ls%252BU2U%252BOwspzCy4hLHZtZmEB6H9b1oU4ZUY7IGNllkGD07fnXqq6p%252FsVj8YcqZw%253D%253D%26checksum%3D23121018005395746aaeb30c4a83b18a841951f2a191&campid=5338562247&toolid=20008
Is it just me getting it wrong, or is what you call the forth wheel, is not the second wheel? Barrel is first wheel, and wheel next to escape wheel is the forth?
Otherwhise great videos :-) I just cleand a Seiko VFA 3923-502A, and just waiting for new straps, nice looking watch
I have never heard of the barrel being the first wheel. On these Seikos you have a centre wheel , 3rd wheel and the forth / second hand wheel
Locking mechanism looks like a seeger clip. Cir clip or other names. Just pull the metal bits inward. There is an indentation for a pointy tool.
Not sure what you mean? There are no circlips on this movement.
@@MyRetroWatches those metal bits that turn around can be bend inward, and lifted up? They are springy, right?
Can you do a repair video of an orient 46941 movement ?
I think I have one simular that I'm going to restore. At some point.
Yet another interesting video from you. Nice watch too! Annoying with the missing function of date and day setting of course. Did you tweak the beat error and rate like you said before fitting the movement in the case?
I did. When I blog this one on the site there will be photos uploaded to show the final trace.
Me gustaría haber visto como se retira el cristal
I have the same problem with the quick date pushing the stem in on this movement. When back in the case it doesn’t work. Did you solve the issue?
Is this case type also referred to as a "Monocoque"?
You seem a little bit stressed out,mate :D :D :D
Can you please share links with the microscope you use and the black pin vise? Great thanks in advance!
All on my website tool page. Link in description of video
I've lusted after one of those for a few years now. Almost won one but my max was outbid by a few quid ☹️
As for the locking ring 'snap ring' , the Seiko casing guide says DO NOT REMOVE.
Hi Roberto hope your well mate. Yes these seem to command a bit of money and I’ve not seen many full day wording wheels before on these.
Not surprised it says do not remove as it’s impossible to do so!
Wish I could because I could make the case look really nice .
@@MyRetroWatches
Yeah all good here.
One day I'll snag one in my usual cheap as chips finds. They usually need refinishing but that's part of the fun. Still not got a corner to call my own to practice movement stripdowns etc. No point starting if I have to stop and pack stuff away safely. Needs to be left out at the stage I finished at. Again, one day 😄
@@ro63rto stop putting it off! You can do it. Get yourself on FB and join my group it would be good to see you on there.
Hi Mike! Can you explain to me how to remove the bezel and crystal from this watch? the tool should grab only the bezel? and then glass? To make the movement
I removed the bezel with a case knife first and then used the crystal lift
@@MyRetroWatches thanks!!!!
For taking photos of reflective things, get a polarizer filter for your camera. Doesn't have to even screw on, you can just hold it in front of the lens, twist until clear then snap away.
Fantastic. I never thought of that. I have one for my dslr but I photo watches on my phone.
Now going to look for a clip on one.
I’ve had so many issues with that before that I never even realised there was a solution!
@@MyRetroWatches
I used mine to take photos of ponds etc. It's great at allowing you to see what's under the surface .
@@MyRetroWatches polarisers are not very good for suppressing reflections from metallic surfaces, great for ponds and glass though.
Hi Mike , is it possible that the locking mechanism can be compressed ( Like you do with an internal circlip) to release it?
Not sure I understand. The lever when pushed lifts the setting lever to release the stem. Problem I had was the stem and crown were rusted solid together .
Great work and video!
What a beauty Mike. Some of the 70's watches are quite ugly in my opinion but this is a real classy looking watch. I'd be much obliged if one day it landed on my doormat in a jiffy bag! ;⁰)
Sorry mate I’ve ran out of Jiffy bags
I have this one but the day date setting is broken, so i have to set it manualy
Sometimes all it needs is a clean behind the crown. It fills with crap and stops you pushing it in to quickset.
Problem with this model though is to remove the stem the bezel and crystal have to be removed.
Is this a old watch ? When was it built ?
1970
Did you decide to address the beat error? If yes, how?
Beat error is corrected as part of regulation on the timegrapher. To correct beat you move the stud arm on the balance one way or the other.
@@MyRetroWatches yes, and thanks. I suppose that’s not an especially photogenic process.
Can I wind the sea lion M99 model 8306 or it is self wind ? Please someone tell me
Pretty sure you can’t. Most Seikos do not offer hand winding.
@@MyRetroWatches it a fake please Sir i request you to let me know if it is a fake movement.
Someone probably went swimming with that Sealion. You know because it’s waterproof 🙄
It reminds me of the dyslectic lapidarist, hunting for rabbits..
#621 Thumbs uP