Great video sir! Thank you for taking the time to do these videos, I know your a busy guy but it shows a lot that you take time to make these types of videos. 👍🙏
As I commented through e-mail I enjoyed your videos on the KX 112. Very informative, you do a great job on all your Y-Tube videos !! Thanks again. Big Cat from SC. patiently waiting on part 4.
Great video. I am going to make my son watch this. He is now on a kx112. I try to teach him about motors and maintenance. Kids only want to learn thru CZcams.
Nice man , learned A LOT watching you're vid's ... that's insane !!!! thx for that . Using and tuning myself with HPI complete ignitions , but with the stock curves , youre video on that topic was great . Thinking on getting a reprogrammable CDI from HPI . Tuning myself 70cc and 80cc racebikes for 20 years, entering a new level just from you're videos . Looking for that next video on the phatheads and if you could have fixed the overrev problems ... cause that's where i'm stuck on my bike . Was thinking of buying another exhaust to get it hotter like you mentioned ... or maybe learning some cheaper technics from you 😄. Love to see that next video , can't find on the ytbchannel ....
Cool videos. Got couple hurt 112s now might try going out to 54.50 and o ringing the head. There’s talk of lotta mini dads leaving the KX 100 112 head stay upper motor mount off as makes headpull a bit and leak coolant and detonate. But I don’t really like that idea not n much else holding the motor. Keep them coming Actually looking for video 4 kx112 series.
I’d be curious to know msv numbers of each head and how that affects and if it effects out put, many people put huge emphasis on it and this video shows it’s not a cut in stone rule, would love to see some sar changes as well and see where it gains and loses power, as always love the videos, I smash the like button before even watching, and look forward to each video. Thanks for doing these!
Just a comment on MSV on heads, the Aprilia RSA 125 2007 made 54hp to the output shaft, toroidal head with 50% area squish and 78msv. Jan Thiel the main brain behind that engine said.... just tighten the head enough so that it won't touch the piston on the overrev and test to find the best ignition timing, optimum around 15* advance @ peak torque, and of course make sure you have an ignition that can deal with that level of turbulence, not all ignitions are strong enough for very high msv.
Great video! I use a product called Race Gas. Im sure you have heard of it. Its race fuel concentrate, so it adds energy to the fuel along with octane. The only issue I found is that it make your fuel smell old!
We will publish a video of various fuel additives down the road, i've purchased a bunch in preperation for it. Generally, we use race fuels - but this bike is headed to australia where fuels are very limited and hard to come by
@@HPRaceDevelopment I’ve had this thought forever 30+ years to be exact and I’ve never seen a single Dyno Test or even Article written on the subject. This may even be too off the wall to test but here goes: 1) Ethanol Free Pump Gas mixed with varying percentages of non-Bio Diesel Fuel. 2) Percentages to be tested 1%, 3%, 5% etc to see if there are any power gains from higher BTU content of Diesel Fuel. 3) See if there’s any effect on Detonation and to see if any Timing Advance/Retard is required if there’s a benefit! I’ve honestly got no idea if it would be a benefit or detriment in either a 2 or 4 Stroke. 4) I’ve been involved in racing as a fan or participant for over 40 years and read/watch an insane pages and videos on performance and I’ve never once seen the mixing gas and a small amount of Diesel Fuel mentioned on in either motorcycle, car or even boat media.
BTU content doesn't really tell the power story - it's stoichemetric ratio and BTU content, which is why nitro makes so much power but is very low BTU. It will lower octane hugely to run diesel so it would be a tough test.@@straighttimestirrups
@@HPRaceDevelopment Agreed many variables, but I’m still curious what the effect of it would be. My guess is it wouldn’t work too well, but since I’ve never seen it tested it’s got me intrigued.
Is that pipe for a KX85 or KX112? I thought there is 2 different part numbers for the pipes. Was just curious if that was a pipe you already had from a previous project. Thanks for taking the time to make videos!
Have a hard time accepting the oem head without squish should be more effiecient than the "real" heads (tom much of a theorist :-) ) . My guess is the squish of the "real looking" heads interferes with the boost port flow and disturbes the scavenging. Would be intersting to see where the boost port is aiming? Keep posting!
Its hard to believe! My best conjecture is its pipe temperature related. The oem style head is less efficient at combustion but better at making the pipe do its job. You have to remember all pipes sold are sold around stock engines and stock heads… If we started pipe development using this head - likely be a different pipe I could be wrong - but this video is a precursor to the bigger concept that 2 strokes are a package of things working together - not a basket of excellent single items thx for the comment
I cut chainsaw cylinder heads in my CNC mill. I have experimented with various shapes etc but I'm restricted by the stock cylinder and shape etc. Anyhow your dyno tests are confirming my observations.
Hey probably a reach but I was wondering if you might be able to show us how much power you could pull out of an old air cooled 250r Honda? I got an old atc I wanna build but not a lot of info out there for them
Interesting video 🙏 I'd like to get some advice about geting more low end torque from an 1996 KX80 which I am setting up for enduro duty. As for now it is stock but I'm willing to make a tradeof at peak horsepower but gain torque at the bottom end (low end grunt). Do you got any suggestions what actions I need to take? In my mind: 12oz flywheel weight should be good, lower gearing, perhaps some spacers between the intake and reed valve, also cut the stock head 0,5-1,0 millimeter to raise compression. All advice are truly welcome.
@HPRaceDevelopment oh no I meant the pipe designed to work with the stock motor wasn't optimized for your mods. After I wrote thatI watched the rest and you mentioned raising the exhaust changes the pipe length needed so you already know. Great work and thank you for the videos you post.
@@HPRaceDevelopment man, just thanks for the info passing. The real world stuff is hard to find when you have people like him sharing article info and theory from decades ago thats been proven to not translate to real world. its a lost art and being out of tuning since 250fs took over the world and put me back to dealership work for a paycheck, its nice to refresh every now and then.
Is there a computer program that scans the cylinder /head/piston/ crankshaft/rod/ carb /timing etc., and can run scenarios to create the desired curve and peak?
Not one that scans it but some programs exist to help predict engine performance based on the engine specs the programs are both accurate and innacurate depending on a hose of factors. So - cant trust everything it yells you until you have verified it works on the dynk
I Dont know if I agree with your statement. As supplied all three inserts out perform the stock uncut head....which stupidly I didn't show in this test. For someone looking to buy a bolt on, I'd say that's pretty good.
It’s always nice to have solid feedback and beyond that great information. So much appreciated!
Great video sir! Thank you for taking the time to do these videos, I know your a busy guy but it shows a lot that you take time to make these types of videos. 👍🙏
Big Cat from SC. is patiently waiting on part four of the KX 112 series. Thanks !
As I commented through e-mail I enjoyed your videos on the KX 112. Very informative, you do a great job on all your Y-Tube videos !! Thanks again. Big Cat from SC. patiently waiting on part 4.
Great Video Im a bit ? but your very determined, what an effort. You would think naturally, the later style head would be best straight away.
Great video. I am going to make my son watch this. He is now on a kx112. I try to teach him about motors and maintenance. Kids only want to learn thru CZcams.
Lol true. I just shared this with my son. I had to bike to the library to read about this stuff back in the day and he just watches videos
This is what I've been waiting for :) thank u
Useful content, thank you mate!
love this series.
Nice man , learned A LOT watching you're vid's ... that's insane !!!! thx for that .
Using and tuning myself with HPI complete ignitions , but with the stock curves , youre video on that topic was great .
Thinking on getting a reprogrammable CDI from HPI .
Tuning myself 70cc and 80cc racebikes for 20 years, entering a new level just from you're videos .
Looking for that next video on the phatheads and if you could have fixed the overrev problems ... cause that's where i'm stuck on my bike .
Was thinking of buying another exhaust to get it hotter like you mentioned ... or maybe learning some cheaper technics from you 😄.
Love to see that next video , can't find on the ytbchannel ....
Cool videos. Got couple hurt 112s now might try going out to 54.50 and o ringing the head. There’s talk of lotta mini dads leaving the KX 100 112 head stay upper motor mount off as makes headpull a bit and leak coolant and detonate. But I don’t really like that idea not n much else holding the motor. Keep them coming Actually looking for video 4 kx112 series.
cool stoff i love 2stroke
Great video series. Never seen anything like this before. Thanks for taking the time to show the world.
I’d be curious to know msv numbers of each head and how that affects and if it effects out put, many people put huge emphasis on it and this video shows it’s not a cut in stone rule, would love to see some sar changes as well and see where it gains and loses power, as always love the videos, I smash the like button before even watching, and look forward to each video. Thanks for doing these!
yeah that needs to be a video on its own.
Just a comment on MSV on heads, the Aprilia RSA 125 2007 made 54hp to the output shaft, toroidal head with 50% area squish and 78msv.
Jan Thiel the main brain behind that engine said.... just tighten the head enough so that it won't touch the piston on the overrev and test to find the best ignition timing, optimum around 15* advance @ peak torque, and of course make sure you have an ignition that can deal with that level of turbulence, not all ignitions are strong enough for very high msv.
Great video! I use a product called Race Gas. Im sure you have heard of it. Its race fuel concentrate, so it adds energy to the fuel along with octane. The only issue I found is that it make your fuel smell old!
We will publish a video of various fuel additives down the road, i've purchased a bunch in preperation for it. Generally, we use race fuels - but this bike is headed to australia where fuels are very limited and hard to come by
@@HPRaceDevelopment Awesome! Im excited to see that video and the one for reading spark plugs. Keep up the awesome work!!
@@HPRaceDevelopment I’ve had this thought forever 30+ years to be exact and I’ve never seen a single Dyno Test or even Article written on the subject. This may even be too off the wall to test but here goes:
1) Ethanol Free Pump Gas mixed with varying percentages of non-Bio Diesel Fuel.
2) Percentages to be tested 1%, 3%, 5% etc to see if there are any power gains from higher BTU content of Diesel Fuel.
3) See if there’s any effect on Detonation and to see if any Timing Advance/Retard is required if there’s a benefit!
I’ve honestly got no idea if it would be a benefit or detriment in either a 2 or 4 Stroke.
4) I’ve been involved in racing as a fan or participant for over 40 years and read/watch an insane pages and videos on performance and I’ve never once seen the mixing gas and a small amount of Diesel Fuel mentioned on in either motorcycle, car or even boat media.
BTU content doesn't really tell the power story - it's stoichemetric ratio and BTU content, which is why nitro makes so much power but is very low BTU. It will lower octane hugely to run diesel so it would be a tough test.@@straighttimestirrups
@@HPRaceDevelopment Agreed many variables, but I’m still curious what the effect of it would be. My guess is it wouldn’t work too well, but since I’ve never seen it tested it’s got me intrigued.
Is that pipe for a KX85 or KX112? I thought there is 2 different part numbers for the pipes. Was just curious if that was a pipe you already had from a previous project. Thanks for taking the time to make videos!
Have a hard time accepting the oem head without squish should be more effiecient than the "real" heads (tom much of a theorist :-) ) . My guess is the squish of the "real looking" heads interferes with the boost port flow and disturbes the scavenging. Would be intersting to see where the boost port is aiming?
Keep posting!
Its hard to believe!
My best conjecture is its pipe temperature related. The oem style head is less efficient at combustion but better at making the pipe do its job. You have to remember all pipes sold are sold around stock engines and stock heads…
If we started pipe development using this head - likely be a different pipe
I could be wrong - but this video is a precursor to the bigger concept that 2 strokes are a package of things working together - not a basket of excellent single items
thx for the comment
I cut chainsaw cylinder heads in my CNC mill. I have experimented with various shapes etc but I'm restricted by the stock cylinder and shape etc. Anyhow your dyno tests are confirming my observations.
Great videos ! When you say , Cut OEM head. You mean a flat cut on sealing surface ? How much did you take off ? .015 ish ?
all detailed in part 2
Hey probably a reach but I was wondering if you might be able to show us how much power you could pull out of an old air cooled 250r Honda? I got an old atc I wanna build but not a lot of info out there for them
Not somethign I work on....There's a guy named jerry hall who can work wonders on that stuff
Interesting video 🙏
I'd like to get some advice about geting more low end torque from an 1996 KX80 which I am setting up for enduro duty.
As for now it is stock but I'm willing to make a tradeof at peak horsepower but gain torque at the bottom end (low end grunt).
Do you got any suggestions what actions I need to take?
In my mind: 12oz flywheel weight should be good, lower gearing, perhaps some spacers between the intake and reed valve, also cut the stock head 0,5-1,0 millimeter to raise compression.
All advice are truly welcome.
Longer pipe designed for low end will make far more difference than your listed changes
Oh, good point I will look into that. Thanks for the tip 😊
What jetting, fuel octane, and plug did you end up using to eliminate detonation?
Same I gotta know the octane!
And I think that’s the ngk 105 R spark plug
any chance you will being doing the same tests with the kx65?
Not likely any time soon
After all these mods what would you say the CCs are now?
Still a 112
Why don't you test the VHM head, they have it available for kx 112 ?
what do you think that test would show vs what we showed here
Whens part 4 coming up
Hopefully soon - been busy
Any long rods available for this engine kx85 not 112
I dont personally do them on the 85 but we could
What's most power you've had on these before , can you get into the 30hp
Seems that the pipe isnt optimized for the head/porting
So our gains are bad?
@HPRaceDevelopment oh no I meant the pipe designed to work with the stock motor wasn't optimized for your mods. After I wrote thatI watched the rest and you mentioned raising the exhaust changes the pipe length needed so you already know. Great work and thank you for the videos you post.
@@paulmryglod4802 I think the head test is suggesting the current pipe is too long
i hope michael forrest is paying attention....
who dat
@@HPRaceDevelopment man, just thanks for the info passing. The real world stuff is hard to find when you have people like him sharing article info and theory from decades ago thats been proven to not translate to real world. its a lost art and being out of tuning since 250fs took over the world and put me back to dealership work for a paycheck, its nice to refresh every now and then.
Ofug if you do octane booster contact project farm
Is it normal for plug strap to look white after a 30 second wot?
plugs will look almost new if jetted properly almost no change in color
some fuels - mostly leaded fuels / leave a white/grey tinge on things
@@HPRaceDevelopment is it bad if strap is completely white after 10-20 seconds? Not silver from brand new looks more white.
dunno - i cant help tune from afar
@@HPRaceDevelopment but I after a quick dyno the plug strap is white right?
@@user-ue3ku6qb3j I cant really offer help over the internet - our plug straps look all various colors based on the fuel, tune, and oil used
Is there a computer program that scans the cylinder /head/piston/ crankshaft/rod/ carb /timing etc., and can run scenarios to create the desired curve and peak?
Not one that scans it
but some programs exist to help
predict engine performance based on the engine specs
the programs are both accurate and innacurate depending on a hose of factors. So - cant trust everything it yells you until you have verified it works on the dynk
Squish what...Really... Try relief angle's.lmao
huh
It seems it’s just a subpar product. I mean you can’t fix them all
I Dont know if I agree with your statement. As supplied all three inserts out perform the stock uncut head....which stupidly I didn't show in this test. For someone looking to buy a bolt on, I'd say that's pretty good.
Can you make efi video
for what