How to Wire a Light Switch: The Switch Leg Loop/Drop
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- This shows wiring a light switch when the power comes into the light outlet first. The old method of a 2-wire drop is explained along with the current code requirements of using a 3-wire cable, providing a neutral at the switch box.
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Can't tell you how happy you made me and my granddaughter by providing this video. We struggled trying to figure out how to connect the wires when switching out a ceiling light (my bad I forgot to take a picture before disconnecting the old fixture) as the light would turn on but not shut off with the switch. Now the light works perfectly. THANKS SO MUCH!
Thanks. After tons of searching, you finally answered my question about running an outlet from a light switch with only 2 wires !!!!!
Just found your channel, have a house with Romex both old and new added to knob and tube your clear precise explanations are a godsend
Just had trouble changing a bathroom light out for a light exhaust fan combo and ran into some issues. This video saved me! Thanks!!!!
Terryyyyy! This video was extremely helpful in assisting me with installing a light fixture on old brittle post war electrical wires. I love your channel! Thank you for the free educating. YOU ROCK! 🤘😎
Thank you so much Miguel! Happy to have helped!
Straightforward and informative! Solved my smart switch situation.. Not a fancy dimming or timer switch but functional as in I don't have blind walk at night to a switch board to turn on a light or waste energy by keeping another low wattage light on just so that I can find my way to the higher wattage light switch. In bed from phone..! At home or away from home I can control my house lighting..
How can ANYBODY give this or any of Terry's videos a thumbs down vote? Here is an accomplished, skilled, knowledgeable, successful and experienced tradesman who can TEACH as well.
Thanks for the very nice vote of confidence Apeck!
@@theinternetelectrician I'll go a step further. I found your course on udemy.com and was thoroughly impressed by your presentation. And, based on my outstanding experience with your educational material on udemy.com, I WILL be purchasing your home wiring course off your website. It is rare to find an individual who has an exhaustive background in a subject matter, years of practical on the job experience combined with a DESIRE, ABILITY and WILLINGNESS to teach. Thank you!
@@apackwestbound5946 Well thank-you so much! It's only February, but I think I can declare this the nicest comment and endorsement of 2019! Permission to use your comments for any promotional and branding activity? Will attach first name only.
@@theinternetelectrician Approved! I'm headed to your website to purchase the course now!
Thank you for this! Recently started switching out all of our old dingy outlets and switches and this definitely helped!
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Thank you sir. You made it so much easier than other channels. I had to use ground as a neutral in a house before the 1920's with much research . It was a nightmare fixing the electrical connectors around the house
Raymond Ray you must be so old you could probably use your nut sack as a plum-bob. But still, please don't be a hack. Fish that neutral wire in. That bare ground is for yours and others protection and not to used in place of the neutral.
@@Rick-the-Swift He said he was doing it in a house that's pre-1920s , not that he was pre-1920s- however that remark was hilarious
Thanks so much, you just confirmed my thoughts on the 3 wire drop, as I am adding a switch to an existing light using 14-3.Romex.
And that makes you compliant with the new code rules!
Thank you very much for this video. I used it to fix an electrical issue that has been plaguing me for years
thanks man beginning electrician here, helped alot!
Good video, I finally got an understanding of how to wire to a light switch.I dont have a ceiling light in my master bedroom. I have the old two wire set up going from the wall switch to a half hot receptacle . The half hot receptacle is on the opposite corner of the room from the wall switch. I want to install a ceiling light. Can I tap into the cable, that connects the half hot receptacle to the light switch and then go to the light fixture and use the wall switch to operate the light.
Terry great job! Direct very professional .The Best electrical video thank you.
Good video. It's worth noting this wiring method is rarely used today, but you will often run across it in older homes. When I wire new construction I always run power to the switch box, then run my 14/2 leg up to my light. It simplifies troubleshooting in case of a problem. I have used switch loops in remodels and renovations, for adding switches to pull chain fixtures, by fishing a 14/3 from the light box to the newly added switch location.
Just to build on your comment, this method no longer meets the NEC and CEC code as it does not satisfy the requirement of a neutral conductor in every outlet box. Thanks for watching, and for the helpful comment!
But you are correct in that it is very common in older homes. It was the cheaper, quicker, method of wiring a house in the most efficient and rapid way possible so you could make money in the residential marketplace, where you had to get your rough-in times down to record setting speeds!
@@theinternetelectrician actually the 14/3 I've used, from a pull chain fixture to a new switch location does meet code. I use the black as my incoming hot, the red as the leg, and place a wirenut on the neutral and stuff it in the back of the switch box. That way a neutral is available for a high end dimmer or other electronic switch that requires it. As well as the ability to tap off that and add a receptacle below, for example. I don't like using this method, because in case of a problem troubleshooting takes more effort. As a sparky, I don't just think about the easiest way for me to wire a house, I also think about the folks later on who may have to work on the system.
@@Sparky-ww5re yes, understood. Using a 3-wire does meet code. I meant the 2-wire drop doesn’t, as I describe in the opening segment.
@@theinternetelectrician I'm confused, if you brought the 14/2 circuit (power) into the switch box and ran a 14/2 (power) out of the switch box to another switch box (multiple rooms for example) and used a 14/2 for the switch leg to the fixture, you'd have multiple neutrals in the switch box that you could pig tail out if needed. Doesn't that satisfy the code requirement of a neutral in a switch box? Thank you!
thank you for taking of your time to make this valuable video. thumbs up
Thanks for watching, and for the nice comment!
I learned something today, it is a good day....thank you Terry. I am a subscriber and I always like your videos.
Thanks Ray! Appreciate that!
This video was excellent and helped me out of a jam. I have just enough knowledge to be dangerous....sometimes. Thank you for sharing your expertise in a manner for laymen to grasp.
i concur, was having a hard time switching from traditional switches to wi-fi switches, the three wire combo are easy but the older two wire ones are confusing, this video provides useful insight
Thank you for the straight-forward videos.
Thanks! Appreciate the support!
Hello Terry i currently attende VVC on a basic electricianl certification, and your video help me understand better what i read on the 20th edition book electrical wiring. thank you
Thanks David! Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have as you move through your training! terry@electrical-online.com
Thanks for the video. It answered my questions perfectly
Hi Terry, Very nice description. Thanks. However, I require a neutral in my switch box to install a smart touch switch. But how to physically run that extra wire from light to switch box? Please help.
Honestly, it makes things a little easier! thanks
great explanations of so many concepts
Thanks for the nice comment!
Thank you finally found a video that shows how to back feed a light switch
Thanks for the video. It would add a helpful element if you were able to point out (with some type of pointer) the wires that you're referring to. I keep pausing to figure out which wire is which. Thanks again! Subscribed.
Had to watch your video in a pinch....awesome job man.thanks
Come back often! like, subscribe, and click the bell!
Terry, I have a question, actually an issue. My mom's house, it had a swith over an outlet type switch/ outlet that controlled her light over the vanity, it stopped working, she paid someone that came in and put a switch and an outlet in a 2 gang box, it works but the switch also turns off her hallway light and a bedroom light. I looked at it tonight and I can't figure it out, it also had the red wire that you showed. I'm gonna go back tomorrow to try to straighten it out, and tips would be appreciated. I am a lineman so I do know about electricity, just not too much on interior, thanks for listening
HI .. thank you for doing this video.. i have a light switch wire like you have it at 3:47 minutes.. can i tap off of the light switch an add a second light switch to power another light.. in my room the light switch control a ceiling fan and light combo , that is feed power with a 3 wire . the light switch is control by using a 2 wire . i would like to install a second light switch to control the light on the ceiling fan . i hope this make sense to you.. thanks
Thank you for the great video.. I have a question? I just installed a lighted switch using a 12-3 wire, I connect the black and red wire to the lighted switch and I just put a wire nut on the white wire and left it alone, but the lighted switch is not lighting up...Can I wire the white wire and black wire together with a black pig tail wired to the screw to make the lighted switch work properly?
Very nice videos. I have a problem. I replaced a garage light switch with a Lutron motion detector switch (MS-OPS2 no neutral needed). Worked great till I discovered that I had lost power to one of my front exterior outlets. I am trying to fix this since I obviously cut off supply to that outlet when I did the garage switch replacement. This is complicated for me because I have 6 wires in that garage outlet. 3 black and 3 white and one copper ground. Only one black is hot. if I tie all blacks together then I get power on two of the whites. If I tie the hot black to one of the whites then I get power on another white and the other two blacks. Now if I tie the hot white and neutral white I get power to my exterior outlet and my Sperry shows normal connection. But I don't know how to reconnect my Lutron to this set up. I have a tone generator kit and was thinking maybe I should use that to find out which wire goes where....
Very good video. Thank you.
Hey Terry .i wanted to change my light switch to a motion controlled switch but in the box it was fed with 2 red wired pigtailed into the old switch.whats the 2 red wires do and how do they get hoiked up..i tried wireing it 2 way..both reds on one terminal on the motion switch and it wouldnt turn off..2nd way was one wire one each terminal. Well it was really low lighting when the power was back on..can you help..thk u jamie
Looks good. But most guys wire s light switch like a safety switch with line(the power coming in on the black wire) to the screw on top when the toggle is in the "on" position and the "load" is the bottom screw that the red wire attaches to and then to the light socket, ( center pin, not the shell. Shell goes to neutral.)
The practice of connecting switches with hot on the top does come from the safety switch as you point out here. And for good reason, so that when you are throwing the switch closed, the blade (s) of the switch are not hot until contact with the top jaws is made. However with new devices, this is irrelevant and connecting that way is more of a habit and a trade practice for some. I like the way I do it just because it was the way I was taught, and it makes sense to me with all the power coming in below, and then going 'up' to any lightings. Whatever works and makes sense is OK because the switch doesn't 'care' what terminal the hot one is 🙂
Thanks Terry for your insight. I have a situation where the power is entering the switch box. How to I wire that using the three wire method? Much appreciated.
Use the hot black wire and splice it through, and pigtail it to the switch, and use the red wire on the other side of the switch for the light. Then at the light fixture you have a hot conductor that can be used to continue the circuit and connect the red to the fixture..
Thank you! You was a big help.
Glad it helped!
@terry_peterman how can I do this with a 3 way setup and utilize the old traveler? I am trying to install a smart switch but require a neutral and will use a wireless 3 way for the other connection.
very nice video,thanks
Hello, thanks for the video. What would change if instead of just a switch, you were doing this to a GFCI switch/outlet combo? Specifically, what would you do with the neutral side of the GFCI?
I would need a little more information to give a reasonably informed answer here. I have never encountered a GFCI switch/outlet combo? I am available for live video consultation at Paltap. paltap.me/internetelectrician
Great video thanks 👍
Thanks for the video. Curious if you can add a receptacle from the light switch in a switch leg loop/drop??
Short answer, you can't. That's part of the reason for the new code requirements that we have a neutral conductor in every outlet box. If I had a Nickle for every question that I've had regarding that very question, well, I'd have a bunch of nickels!
Great very helpful Thank you
I understand how to loop a switch , but can you tell me how too get power from the ceiling to another switch then to a ceiling light . Like the demo you have using 14/2 wire. Where you have power coming in and power to the switch and power to another source . Thanks
I can see how some put a thumbs down. I'm used to seeing black tape to id the switch leg. We never f with identifying the hot. Hot is always black(or never white).
Thank you. I see only a red and a black so wasn’t sure what was going on and this helps.
Wow YT wow
Me: search switch games coming soon
Yt: ok heres a video on nintendo switch games
Also yt: here on play next .....
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Loved the video, loved how chill you are while talking and you're not yelling rambling ❤❤ hearts for the video
Used your videos to educate myself to replace outlets and switches - so helpful!
I do have a problem I don’t see Anywhere how to address. I replaced an outlet (like many times before) but the breaker won’t turn back on now. It doesn’t want to stay in on position. What is it? Something with the outlet?
An outlet in the kitchen? czcams.com/video/rapPtMscrI0/video.html
Short answer, did you break the tab on the hot side of the receptacle (if this was in the kitchen)?
Thanks for not saying, "without any further ado" 🙂
Oh man, my house was built in 2001 and it had the red! Wow amazing. So I can add another switch to this for my under cabinet lighting huh?
Sounds great! Yes you should be able to do that!
ago
i want to add 2 lights in a row to an existing circuit power source.. i Am wanting to put an end of line switch (loop Switch) after these 2 new lights. I understand from your video how to wire a loop switch but my question is (two-fold) ...do I wire the 2 lights in a row the same as wiring a single as in your video?... another words utilize the neutral from the first light ( in line from power source) as a power source as in "daisy chaining" the wire to the second light, and then down to the switch?? Also, as I stated earlier, it is an existing power source from another light, so , in adding this loop switch , will it affect the existing light power?
This seems to be the set up I have but the red wire only has 70 volts on it. What would cause that?
Thank you🌸
Some weird stuff when I opened my kitchen switches to install new dimmers. Scared me how messy it was in there even with all my breakers off. 🤬 You explained so simply and so well. Thank you so much
What damage can be done by wiring neutral white and black (power) to a single pole switch?
Nothing that a circuit breaker, or a fuse can't handle! You'd have a short circuit when you closed the switch! Not advised however, as this is a fault condition that we try our best to avoid!
@theinternetelectrician I'm confused, if you brought the 14/2 circuit (power) into the switch box and ran a 14/2 (power) out of the switch box to another switch box (multiple rooms for example) and used a 14/2 for the switch leg to the fixture, you'd have multiple neutrals in the switch box that you could pig tail out if needed. Doesn't that satisfy the code requirement of a neutral in a switch box? Thank you!
I have a red wire and 2 black wire on one screw . No ground wire and 2 white wire screws together. Do I add another black wire to the 2 b. Wire? Ans screw together?
If I understand your question, you need to splice the 2 black wires together in a wire nut along with a pig-tail to connect to one terminal of the switch. The red wire on the other terminal.
Is this only for single pole lights with white wires?
im korean ! your video good!
Thanks for watching!
Hey I need help I have a white and black wire and they’re both coming out hot and I need to put a light fixture connection
I like to learn electricity thanks for teaching
How do I add extra lights off the 3 wire. I have 4 lights wired up and they work but won’t turn off with the switch. Do I splice the black wire with the red to make them all turn off?
I have a light switch that has a one Red and one Black wire only. It was controlling the bottom half of a socket to turn it off and off, I replaced every socket and switch in my house and that’s the only one that isn’t working now. There is no power at all. I tried switching the wires and still nothing. Does the Red wire have to be connected to the bottom half of the socket?? I currently have it attached to the top half of the socket and the Red wire attached to the top part of the switch. Does that make a difference?
Please respond/help me, thanks
Great video thanks
Thanks Jon, much appreciated!
@@theinternetelectrician what would be the proper wiring between the light and a second light activated by the same switch? 14/2 connecting the outgoing black to the red incoming power?
how should the wiring be done for ... i have a three wire switch loop for the front entry hall light that goes to the switch box which also has a second switch which goes to the porch light and also goes to a couple outlets in the front room , and now niether of the switches turn on the lights and the 2 outlets arent working but when i check the outlets with the plug in checker it comes up as open ground when i turn the porch light on and if i turn the entry light switch on no light on the outlet checker comes on,how can i wires these corectly so my 2 lights and 2 outlets willall work again, its driving me nuts!
1) Plug your tester into the outlet so that the tester lights are on.
2) Turn off the breaker at the panel and confirm it is off by checking to see that the plug tester lights are off
3) Take the two wires off the porch light switch, twist them together and cap them with a marette or electrical tape
4) Take the two wires off of the hallway switch and individually cap them
5) Make sure all of the bare copper ground wires are fastened under the ground screws in the back of the metal box. If the box is plastic, twist all of the bare copper ground wires together
6) Turn the breaker back on confirm that the plug tester lights are on again with a new reading of correct wiring.
7) Turn the breaker back off
8) Take the first individual wire from step 4 and put it on the top screw of one of the switches.
9) Take the second individual wire and put it on the top screw of the other switch.
10) jump the twisted wires from step 3 to the bottom screw of both switches.
11) Turn breaker back on
12) Enjoy the working lights and plugs
13) send me $25 via paypal
Thank you
I have installed a couple of motion auto light switches, single pole. My house light switches don't have a ground. These switches say they don't require a ground, but after installing them, my led light fixtures flicker randomly. I only have a two wire with no ground system. White and black. On one switch the hot is black and the other switch the hot is white. I think wires are crossed somewhere along the line. My question is 1, the black being HOT, is the white considered neutral? I've heard it was, but the switch has terminals marked hot and load. Is load neutral? I see switches on Amazon that say requires neutral but not ground needed. Will these "neutral required" switches work with my wiring? Thanks in advance for your.
You have the same wiring method as you see in my video. Only on one of the switches, they didn't do it as it should be done, and the other one is the way it should be done by sending the power down on the white wire, and back up to the fixture on the black. So short answer, no you cannot use any electronic switch that needs a neutral, and it has happened that (and some component manufacturers suggest doing so) the ground is used to make the electronics work, but with no ground, no neutral, you don't have any choice but to do what you did. I can't answer why the random flickering is happening without some hands-on troubleshooting, and even then it might remain a mystery. Thanks for watching! I hope you've subscribed, and helped me out on my quest for 100K subs!
it seems like the third hot wire that goes to the rest of the circuit would be switched also????
I’m working on a shop I have recepticals at bottom to run always hot but my recepticals at top are for my shop lights they are plug ins Can it be wired to switch with out third wire
Yes, if you use this method, but it no longer meets the current code rules as discussed in the video. And if you have multiple outlets that you want on the one switch, you would need two, 2-wire cables between each box after the one you used to do the switching.
Terry, I just worked on a 3-way switch set up. both switches were removed by someone else. No markings. Can you share with us what is the simplest and fastest way to figure out the wiring? I got it done but I think there must be a faster way. Thank you, Terry.
Robert w Sieburg experience
Disconnect all the wires, leave breaker on and test for the hot wire, (common screw) marrette your other 2 wires (travellers) and go to the next box and turn ur meter to measure continuity, if it beeps u found ur travellers and the other wire is ur load
The hot wire from the junction box has a red wire. Does it matter where on the switch that is connected?
In the switch leg hot, is the black wire neutral?
I have a question. I'm running lights on each side of my garage. What I did was connected the 3 wires off a light fixture on the back of my home and routed the wires to each garage light. They aren't dusk to dawn lights so I want to add a switch. I installed a switch and connected the hot and Ground but the lights aren't shutting off please help..
I would need to see a diagram or pictures of how you connected these. The connecting of the hot and ground to a switch doesn't sound right either.
Supposed to re-mark the whole length of the white wire with tape or three continuous lines with marker
And you don’t need a neutral at every box. Accessible wall, pipe to box and both sides of a 3way are visible to each other are exempt.
How do I wire up two, 3 way switches where the power is coming from the light fixture? Please help.
Here's how to do that. Keep in mind, this no longer complies with the new code (where you need to have a neutral at every outlet box), but it works, and not a terrible code violation as it was allowed up until a few years ago. To make it compliant you would need to use 4-wire cable instead of 3-wire for the runs to the switch boxes. Also, if using this exact method, make sure you identify that first white wire that you use to bring the power down to the first switch as a hot conductor with some black electrical tape close to where it is spliced or terminated on the switch. www.electrical-online.com/3-way-switch-diagram-variation-4/
Im replacing an outside gfci that had a switch loop controlled by a single pole switch in the house. When I took the original gfci out I failed to take a photo (idiot) now can’t figure out the wiring. Everything works as before but cannot get the switch to turn the gfci off. Where does the red wire attach? Currently there are 4 wires on the gfci, white and black on the Line and white and black on the load. thanks
So one of the cables coming in to the outlet box for the GFCI is a 3-wire, white, black, and red? You'll have to open up the switch box as well and let me know what's in there for cables, and how they are spliced, what's connected to the switch, etc.
My 3 lights outside the house are not working. The light bulbs are good, none of the 2 GFI, and the breakers in the box are tripped off. What could be the cause of the problem? Danny Sison
Pretty easy to track down the cause with a non contact voltage tester.... $10 at your local box store.
Thanks!
I have a malfunctioning 3 way circuit. When I take out both switches and test the wires, both the red wire and 1 black wire in each boxes are hot. I thought only one black wire should be hot. Help! I have three extra hot wires.
Did you figure it out?
I have a hard time understanding what the red cable is for. I have two light switches next to each other. One had 2 black cables and one has a black and red. Both have the ground cable as well but just don’t understand
Well my mess is confusing me as I understand the switch leg drop & loop back to power downline. I have ceiling box light with incoming load & I have 2 switches on wall 1 for this light & 1 for outside light below switch is a plug. The switch for this light goes to light, the ceiling box has 3 sets of wires plus load set. So the other two have to carry load downline right? Right now if I tie all blacks together the incoming hot load wire sparks. I don't know if the 2 sets of wires left only 1 goes downline & the other is the outside switch? Bcuz the 3 sets of wires in wall from ceiling don't appear to be going to a plug switch or light. Do I have 2 Neutral white wires in ceiling going down to 2 switches as black hot separately? Then I have 2 black hot coming back up to power lights 1 in & 1 out, right? Without power going thru wire how do you know which ones are downline, plugs, switches, lights etc. Thank you your videos are very good quality info.
What's the whole point of adding the neutral if there wasn't a use for it?
because sometimes, a very fancy switch, requires a neutral to properly function. MLV and ELV dimmers, timeclock switches, and wifi smart switches are examples. The code making panel recognized that folks were using using the ground as neutral for the switch, and a ground is never supposed to be used as a current carrying conductor, since many older homes ran power to the light box, then dropped a 14/2 to a switch, as electronic switches did not exist back in the 50s 60s and 70s when this wiring method was commonly used, and there was never a need for a neutral at the switch box.
Why would a yellow wire be connected to the ground on a receptacle?
Sometimes yellow is used as a ground wire in some systems. (sometimes it will have a green stripe)
Hi Terry - i have a light switch that controls an outlet. When i went to replace the switch i copied the configuration from the old switch. I only had a black and red wire. Once the new switch was installed i the switch does not work but the outlet has constant power. Can you help?
With what you are describing, the only thing that I can think of is that the new switch is faulty and is conducting all the time? Did you change the receptacle too? If so, I have another answer.
Thanks
That is totally cool. I've been researching it for 4 days.
Glad to have helped out!
My brain hurts after that😂
Is this a Canadian code or United States?
Both
Maybe I looked up the wrong video because I was looking for 3 wires going to the switch not hot,neutral and ground.
Why didn’t they just use a black pig tail down to the switch leg in Stead of a weight then having to mark it or phase is out as black hot??
Because then you'd be connecting 2 white wires to the light fixture instead of a hot color and a neutral (white).
I'm really confused with the requirement for 3 wires. At 5:01-6:34, you've changed out your 2 wire for a 3 wire, then attached your neutral to the light, coming out on red and to the switch. So the red at the switch is basically a neutral that you could pigtail and split it in two wires before it goes in the switch. The other neutral is redundant, no??? This doesn't make sense.
The neutral is in the light outlet box. Now that we have a three wire cable going to the switch, we can also have a neutral available at that switch outlet box. We are not using it with this simple single pole switch. The hot wire at the light outlet now goes down to the switch on the black wire and then comes back up to the light on the red wire to complete the circuit when the switch is on.
The black is the Line Hot and the Red is the switched Load. The 2 wire system is using a white wire as a hot.
Why is 1 wire red mines not
OK Google I need to hook three three-way switches together one open has a four wire one of the three wires
The most confusing video for any mortal!
If this confuses you, please hire a licensed electrician to install your new light fixtures.
Hello There: Yes I have a regular wall switch on my garage when I first but a motion sensor & it STOP working. So I try to reinstall a new motion sensor & still no power at all.When I took the face plate off pull the old switch I saw 3-white wire tries together 1-red it self 2-black wire with 1-white wire all 3-wire tries together. So I hope to get my power back in my 2-car garage oh I do have some power in my garage to running the garage door opening & my work table & power tools tooI'm calling from Houston Tx oh let me know if you like to see some picture about it ok
dimmers don’t need nuetrals...
Why no just bring power into the switch box? Then run your three wire.
Wiring Kyle’s room
There is countrys such as Mexico where ""no electrical codes exist"" not even electric inspectors...and no FINES for wrong conections...
I know! There are even some States in the USA that don't have required mandatory training for electricians, and maybe now, but not long ago there were States that had not adopted the NE Code as the rulebook. So it's not just Mexico. I've spent much time in Mexico, and now in Costa Rica. Costa Rica has adopted the NEC but in many parts of the country there is no inspection and enforcement in place. I built a home here, had all the proper permits, but never once saw an inspector on the job. I wired it myself to the NEC standards, AFCI / GFCI where required, etc. Probably the only home in Guanacaste that is done to this standard!
these days the terminology get crazee - so please explain when you say HOT does this mean LINE? the the other black wire you mention is this the LOAD that gives power to the fixture? all manuals say LINE or LOAD which well explained but electricians still mentioning HOT or BLACK WIRE - CONFUSED!!!
Hot can be synonymous with line. Load is usually used to describe the device being controlled by a device, (switch, GFCI, etc) And the load wires are also "hot" when they are on. Did I help, or make it worse?
@@theinternetelectrician you clarified it thank you.
I'm here cuz my switch is messed up
Well !!! if they want one of those fancy devices .. Hire an electrician to add a FUgen neutral.. why do y'all have to make it mandatory😤😤😤😡😡😡 it's all about $$
keep it simple Stupid
if it ain't broke don't fix it.